kspearl newproducts korea newinnovative cosmetics...•application : powders, eyeshadow, bb cream...
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2020KSPEARL New Products
&KOREA New Innovative Cosmetics
2020
KSPEARL New Products
■ High Purity & Child labor Free: HP Iron Oxide Yellow/Red/Black 3AS
Sericite L AS / Mica G AS / Mica H ASSyn-Mica M/HP1/HP2/HP3
■ Eco-Friendly Sunscreen & Silica: M-ZnO P AS / Zinc Oxide ASMT-012 SA / Micro TiO2 060 ASSoft Silica
■ Silicon Free Cosmetics: TiO2 CR-50 ST
HP Iron Oxide Yellow/Red/Black 3AS
■ Innovative Powders: Silky Black / P-Alumina150 / Boron Nitride G
TiO2 IR AS / FOS treatment
Total heavy metals threshold < 20ppm (expressed as lead) in the RM.
High Purity & Child labor Free
Global Cosmetic Compnay Heavy metals standards
Compliance with E172, bur not comply with the global company`s internal standards
Commission Regulation (EU) No 231/2012 (E172)
Sunchemical (Suncroma) Titan Kogyo (P-type)
Ni < 200 ppm Ni < 200 ppm
Cr < 100 ppm Cr < 100 ppm
Co < 50 ppm
< Korea MFDS >
Nickel: eye cosmetics below 35㎍/g, color cosmetics below 30㎍/g, other cosmetics below 10㎍/gOpinion : 2017.12.8 ~ 12.28 (2017-441)Regulation start date : 2017. 12. 29. (2017-114)
Items Max (ppm)
Pb 10
As 3
Hg 1
Cd 3
Sb 5
Ni 20
Cr 20
Co 20
• High purity grade iron oxides
• Low heavy metals contents
• Highly pigmented iron oxides
• Low oil absorption
• Good dispersibility & hydrophobicity
• Compliance with global regualtions
- EU : EC No 1223/2009 – Annex IV (E172)
- USA : FDA 21 CFR 73.2250
• REACH full registered
• Application : Powders, oil dispersion, W/O emulsion
HP I.O.Yellow 3AS
HP I.O.Red 3AS
HP I.O.Black 3AS
HP Iron Oxide Yellow/Red/Black 3AS
Pb As Hg Cd Sb
≤ 10ppm ≤ 2ppm ≤ 1ppm ≤ 3ppm ≤ 5ppm
Ni Cr Co
≤ 20ppm ≤ 20ppm ≤ 20ppm
L'Oréal R&I development
NATURAL MICAS ORIGIN : If mines are located in India, should be only sourced from Merck
https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/
Up to 20,000 children are stimated to work
in the mines, around 90% of which are
illegal, according to a recent report by
NGOs Terre des Hommes and SOMO
Beauty companies and the struggle to source child labour-free mica
Child labor issue of Indian Mica
Sericite L AS
• High putiry grade Sericite
(Low heavy metals contents)
• Lamellar shape with High aspect ratio
• High whiteness ≈ 92
• Crystalline silica ≤1.0% (XRD)
• Very smooth and soft
• Average particle size: 10 ㎛
• Alkyl silane treatment
• Good affinity to skin
• Good water repellence
• Application : Powders
Beforewettingwith oil
Afterwettingwith oil
Sericite LCompetitor`s
Sericite
Pb As Hg Cd Sb
≤ 10ppm ≤ 2ppm ≤ 1ppm ≤ 5ppm ≤ 5ppm
Mica G AS / Mica H AS
Mica G AS Mica H AS
Mica G AS Mica H AS
• Lamellar shape with
high aspect ratio
• Excellent spreadability
• Place of Mine : China
• Wet ground
• Triethoxycaprylylsilane treated
• Application: All typesMica H AS Mica G AS
Size 13 ~16㎛
TextureGlossy
Transparent
Matt
Cover
Natural Mica Syn-Mica HP2
Before
wetting
with oil
After
wetting
with oil
Syn-Mica M/HP1/HP2/HP3
M HP1 HP2 HP3
HP3
Syn-Mica
HP2
Syn-Mica
M
Syn-Mica M HP1 HP2 HP3
Size 14㎛ 10㎛ 15㎛ 24㎛
TextureGlossy
TransparentMattCover
*available coating : AS (Triethoxycparylylsilane)
• Lamellar shape with high aspect ratio
• High purity grade Synthetic Mica(Low heavy metal contents)
• Fluorine elution less than 20ppm
• High whiteness → Anti darkening
• Soft and smooth texture
• REACH full registered
• Application : All types
Environment
EthylHexylMethoxycinnamate
Benzophenone-3
Results of the Center for Drug Evaluation and Research
(CDER) under the Food and Drug Administration (FDA)
The blood concentration of six chemicals, including ▲ Avobenzone ▲
Oxybenzone ▲ Octocrylene, ▲ Homosalate ▲ Oxisalate ▲ Octinoxate
etc., which are included in sunscreen products, has increased every day.
On the seventh day after the discontinuation of use, it exceeded the
FDA safety standard of 0.5 NPB (nanograms per milliliter). In particular,
Homo salate and Oxybenzone exceeded safety standards until the 21st
day.
Environmental destruction of organic sunscreen
KSPEARL's Sunscreen Line-up
Eco-Friendly Sunscreen & Silica
EU (EC 1223/2009 Annex IV 30a) ASEAN (ACD Annex VII 29a)
Purity
≥ 96 % with wurtzite crystalline structure and physical
appearance as clusters that are rod-like, star-like and/or
isometric shapes, with impurities consisting only of
carbon dioxide and water, whilst any other impurities are
less than 1 % in total
Same with EU (EC 1223/2009 Annex IV 30a)
Median
diameter of
the particle
number size
D50 (50 % of the number below this diameter) > 30 nm
and D1 (1 % below this size) > 20 nm Same with EU (EC 1223/2009 Annex IV 30a)
Water
solubility < 50 mg/L Same with EU (EC 1223/2009 Annex IV 30a)
Coating
materials
uncoated, or coated with triethoxycaprylylsilane,
dimethicone, dimethoxydiphenylsilanetriethoxycaprylyl
silane cross- polymer, or octyl triethoxy silane.
Coating materials can be used that have been
demonstrated to be safe and not to affect the nanoparticle
properties related to the behaviour and/or effects
EU and ASEAN
USA
∙ USP grade Zinc Oxide
∙ Facility registration on US FDA.
∙ Drug listing for API(Active Pharmaceutical ingredients) - NDC(National drug code)
Nano Zinc Oxide global regulatory
UVAUVB
M-ZnO P AS
Zinc Oxide (100nm)
• Excellent Shielding for UV-A
• Triethoxycaprylylsilane treated ZnO
• Good tansparency
• Primary particle size: 30 ~ 50 nm
• Long lasting
• Zinc Oxide which meets EC No 1223/2009,
no.30a, Zinc Oxide (nano)
• Application : All types
M-ZnO P AS
M-ZnO P AS
Competitor
UVB UVA
M-ZnO P AS
SPF & PA in-vivo Test Result
M-ZnO P AS vs Competitor`s nano ZnO
Skin
Cream
M-ZnO P ASOMC
Only OMC OMC & nano ZnO
SPF Boosting with OMC
· Instituition : Ellead CO.,LTD.· Test method
-SPF : Cosmetics Europe SPF Test Method(ISO 24444)-PFA : UVA sun protection method by JCIA(ISO 24442)
· Number of people : 10
KSP Suncream
SPF50+/PA+++
KSP Inorganic
Suncream
SPF 50+/PA++++
Micro TiO2 035 AS 3 -
MT-012 SA - 7
M-ZnO P AS 8 13
UVINUL MC 80 7 -
SPF SPF 62.4 SPF 55.3
PFA PFA 9.11, PA[+++] PFA 16.84, PA[++++]
Environment
· Institution : Ellead CO.,LTD.· Test method
-SPF : Cosmetics Europe SPF Test Method(ISO 24444)-PFA : UVA sun protection method by JCIA(ISO 24442)
· Number of people : 10
SPF & PA in-vivo Test Result
Trade nameKSP Inorganc Suncream
SPF50+/PA++++
MT-012 SA 7
M-ZnO P AS 13
SPF SPF 55.3±9.9
PFA PFA 16.84±3.93 PA[++++]
- Caprylryl Silane Treated Micro TiO2 (Average particle size 60 nm)
- Both UV-A and UV-B Shielding Capacity and moderate opacity.
- Granular shape
- Higher UV-A shielding Capacity than micro ZnO.
- Higher UV-B shielding Capacity than 20㎚ TiO2 and 35㎚ TiO2.
- Less Oxidation and photoactivity than 20㎚ TiO2 and 35㎚ TiO2.
- Better spreadability than micro ZnO, 20㎚ TiO2 and 35㎚ TiO2.
TEM Image
Micro TiO2 060 AS
Micro TiO2 035 AS (35nm)
Micro TiO2 060 AS (60nm)
Company A (15nm)
UVB UVA
KSP SUN BB
SPF 50+ / PA++++
KSPEARL BB
SPF 50 / PA+++
KSPEARL BB
SPF 40+ / PA+++
TiO2 CR-50 AS - 6.9 6.9
Micro TiO2 060 AS 15.0 8.5 5.5
UVINUL MC 80 7.0 7.0 7.0
SPF 67.3 52.40 47.40
PFA 20.08 (PA ++++) 11.81 (PA+++) 11.00 (PA+++)
SPF & PA in-vivo Test Result
BB Cream
Twin Pact
Silky Moist Twin Pact
30/+++
TM 50 DAS 10.0
Micro TiO2 060 AS 5.5
UVINUL MC 80 3.2
SPF 30.40
PFA 11.05
O
O
O OO O
OO
S
i
S
i
S
i S
iO
O
Pigmen
t
Compatibility with Silicon Oil
Hydrocarbon : Compatibility withGeneral OilAS (Triethoxycaprylylsilane) treatment
• Octyl (hydrocarbon) group gives compatibility with oil.
• Short hydrocarbon (octyl) chain gives light texture, not stickiness.
• Si group has compatibility with silicon oil.
All in One
Pigmentary TiO2 (cover)
Micro TiO2 (SPF)
Zinc Oxide (PA)
Micro TiO2 060 AS(Cover + SPF + PA)
• All in One : SPF + PA + Cover
• Reduced Pigment → Enhanced Texture
- Microbeads, typically under 5mm in size, are used as abrasive exfoliants in products such as toothpastes and facial cleaners.
-The types of plastic microbeads :polyethylene (PE), polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), nylon polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and polypropylene (PP)
Plastic Microbead Free Make-up products ??
-theguardian news, November 18, 2015
Environmental issue of Plastic Microbeads
Environment
KSPEARL's Substitute
Environment
Micro Plastic Bead FREE
*Talc free
- Soft and moisture texture similar to organic microbeads
- Low oil absorption : < 20ml/100g
→ No effect on viscosity and stability of emulsion or oil dispersion
formulations
- Average particle size : 7㎛
- Chemically stable inorganic powder and no skin irritation
- Alkyl silane treated → Long lasting & Good dispersibility in oil
- Application : Powders, Oil dispersion, W/O emulsion
Texture
Porous Silica Bead(General Silica Bead)
Non-Porous Silica Bead(Soft Silica AS)
Spre
adabili
ty
Softness
PMMA
Nylon PowderSoft Silica AS
Silica Bead AS
Soft Silica AS
Silicone Free Cosmetics
★ 3% Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treated
★ Excellent dispersibility and low viscosity in oil system
★ Excellent hydrophobicity
★ Good skin affinity
★ Application : Powders, oil dispersion, W/O emulsion
Oil dispersibilityFeatures
Chemical Bonding Process
TiO2 CR-50 ST non treated TiO2
High loading test
40% of Titanium dioxide in caprylic/capric triglycerides
→ ST treated pigments show excellent dispersibility and low
viscosity in several oils.
OHOH
Ti OO
3O
OOH
Ti OO
O
IPA
O
O
O
Pigment Pigment
Product Name
TiO2 CR-50 ST
HP Iron Oxide Yellow ST
HP Iron Oxide Red ST
HP Iron Oxide Black ST
TiO2 CR50 AS
0H
2H 24H
CAPRYLYL METHICONE
DIBUTYL ADIPATE
DISILOXANE ISODODECANEPROPYLHEPTYL CARPRYLATE
★ CAPRYLYL METHICONE, DIBUTYL ADIPATE, PROPYLHEPTYL CARPRYLATE-> Good dispersibility
CAPRYLYL METHICONE
DIBUTYL ADIPATE
DISILOXANE ISODODECANEPROPYLHEPTYL CARPRYLATE
CAPRYLYL METHICONE
DIBUTYL ADIPATE
DISILOXANE ISODODECANEPROPYLHEPTYL CARPRYLATE
TiO2 CR50 ST
0H
2H 24H
ISODODECANE-> Good dispersibility
CAPRYLYL METHICONE
DIBUTYL ADIPATE
DISILOXANE ISODODECANEPROPYLHEPTYL CARPRYLATE
CAPRYLYL METHICONE
DIBUTYL ADIPATE
DISILOXANE ISODODECANEPROPYLHEPTYL CARPRYLATE
CAPRYLYL METHICONE
DIBUTYL ADIPATE
DISILOXANE ISODODECANEPROPYLHEPTYL CARPRYLATE
Clean Beauty
Silicone FREEAccording to a study of 'inhalation toxicity', inhaled cosmetic ingredients
could be harmful to human health because they found a cancer from
laboratory rats.
Hazard of D4, D5 and D6
• Synthetic mica based Black Iron Oxide
• Fluorine elution ≤ 20ppm guaranteed
• Low heavy metals contents
• Triethoxycaprylylsilane treated
• Good dispersibility & hydrophobicity
• Compliance with global regulations (iron oxide)
- EU : EC No 1223/2009 – Annex IV (E172)
- USA : FDA 21 CFR 73.2250
Silky Black ASMicroscope Image
Syn-Mica
Iron Oxide
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Particle size distribution
Innovative Powders
Iron Oxide Black pigment Silky Black AS
Hand Mix HenschelMixer
Hand Mix HenschelMixer
* Color/Talc=1:1 30s mixing
Dispersibility Test
Comparison of color difference between mixing by hand of powder and Talc and mixing by mixer for 30 sec.
Endurance
Black Iron Oxide does not separate from Syn-mica easily
SEM image after mixing Silky Black AS and Talc by henschel mixer for 30s
Silky Black AS has less color drift by mixing method, mixing time, etc.
Platy Alumina Powder
• INCI : Alumina (or Synthetic Sapphire)
• Refractive index
Human skin(1.70) and Platy alumina(1.76)
have similar refractive indices
-> good cover, but still natural look
• Soft focusing / Coverage
Covers even the tiniest pores, wrinkles and
blemishes
• Application : Powders, Eyeshadow,
BB cream and Foundation
P-Alumina150 P-Alumina150N
Size(㎛) 9 11
Surface
area (㎡/g)7.5 3.5
P-Alumina150
P-Alumina150N
Before Make-up with P-Alumina150 After Make-up with P-Alumina150
Boron Nitride G
• INCI : Boron Nitride• Lamellar crystal structure improves texture• Soft and lubricious for superior spreading
and adherence• Luminous coverage• Application : All types
Particle Size Distribution
BN
(%)
B2O3
(%)
Particle
size (㎛)BET
(m2/g)
>99 <0.1 11~13 4-15
1um
1um
Thermal Skin Aging by Infrared
Thermal Skin Aging
31~33℃ 40℃Ideal skin temp Thermal skin aging temp
Active collagen synthesis in the skin
Maintain collagen and elastic fibers existing in the skin
→Skin regeneration & Prevention of skin aging
Reduced collagen synthesis in the skin
Decompose collagen and elastic fibers present
in the skin
→ Loses elasticity & Generation of wrinkles
TiO2 IR AS
Heat Shielding Test
IR Transmittance & Reflectance
TiO2 CR-50 AS
MT-012 SA
TiO2 IR AS
TiO2 CR-50 AS
MT-012 SA
TiO2 IR AS
TiO2 CR-50 AS
MT-012 SA
TiO2 IR AS
PET film (blank)
Infrared region Infrared region
Infrared lamp
Sample film
Measurement point
Microscope Images
Transparency Images
TiO2
CR-50 AS
MT-012
SA
TiO2
IR AS
Hydrophobicity and Lipophobicity
Chemical Bonding Process
OHOH
SiO
OOH
Ethanol
F F F
F FF
FFF
Pigment Pigment
SiO
F F F
F FF
FFF
O
Water Silicone Oil
Water
Ester Oil
Ester Oil
on the surface of TiO2 CR-50 FOS
Product Name
TiO2 CR-50 FOS
HP Iron Oxide Yellow FOS
HP Iron Oxide Red FOS
HP Iron Oxide Black FOS
Talc 13R FOS
Sericite L FOS
TiO2 CR-50 ST
Water Silicone Oil Ester Oil
on the surface of TiO2 CR-50 AS
Water
Ester Oil
FOS Treatment
★ Perfluorooctyl Triethoxysilane treated
★ Excellent hydrophobicity and
good lipophobicity
★ Long lasting & Anti darkening effect
★ Moderate dispersibility in silicone oil
★ PFOA and PFOS free
KOREANew Innovative Cosmetics
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