easy, tasty, small fruits...can grow in warmer parts of the state. •northern highbush blueberry...

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Easy, Tasty, Small FruitsBlueberries, Passionfruit, and Hardy Kiwi

Oregon State Extension

www.blueberrycouncil.org

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College of

Agriculture and Natural Resources

Penn State Extension

Blueberries

Blueberries

• Varieties• Growth• Site Selection• Cultivars/Pollination• Pruning• Harvest• Protection from Animals• Month by Month Tasks• Problems

Varieties

• Lowbush blueberry (Vaccinium angustifolium) found in Maine and Canada

• Rabbit eye blueberry (V. ashei) grown in the southern United States. Can grow in warmer parts of the state.

• Northern highbush blueberry (V. corymbosum), the species most widely grown in Maryland.

• Southern highbush blueberry (cross between Northern highbush and V. darrowii, native to the South). Can grow west of Frederick MD.

Growth

Washington State University

Site Selection

Blueberries(Plant morethan 1 varietyfor highest yield)

Min. distancebetween rows(ft.)

Betweenplants (ft.)

Annual yieldper plant (lbs.)

Yrs. from plantingto first crop

Av. lifespan(years)

6 5 6-8 3-4 20-30

• Full Sun (can take some shade)• Avoid windy, dry sites• pH 4.3-5.3

Amending Before Planting

• Ideally the Fall before Planting• Strive to amend the planting site (not just

holes) with compost, peat moss, shredded leaves. Site should be 1/3 organic material in order to improve water holding capacity.

• If pH is above 6.0, sulfur and iron sulfate are needed 6-8 inches deep before planting.

• Ideal pH 4.3-5.3

• If plants are already planted, work sulfur in about 12-18 inches around the plant.

Clemson University

Decreasing Soil pH

Approximate pounds of sulfur and iron sulfate needed per 100 sq. ft. of soil to reduce the soil pH to 4.5

**It is not necessary to use iron sulfate if soil pH is below 6.0. Sulfur alone will suffice to lower the pH.

Soil TestpH

Sandy SoilSulfur*

Sandy SoilIron Sulfate

Loam orClay Soil

Sulfur*

Loam orClay SoilIron Sulfate

7.5 1.2 4.2 3.5 12.2

7.0 1.0 3.5 2.9 10.0

6.5 .75 2.6 2.3 8.0

6.0** 1.2 ---- 3.5 ----

5.5** .8 ---- 2.4 ----

5.0** .4 ---- 1.2 ----

*flowers of sulfur or elemental sulfur.**It is not necessary to use iron sulfate if soil pH is below 6.0. Sulfur alone will suffice to lower the pH.

Bluetta Short, compact bushes with medium vigor. Medium size, crack-resistant fruit with good flavor.

Bluejay Very vigorous bushes with mummy berry disease resistance. Large, firm, slightly tart berries. Fruit does not drop or crack.

Blueray Very productive and vigorous variety that performs well in hot climates. Large, high quality berries.

Bluecrop Leading variety; hardy and consistent with vigorous, upright canes. Fruit is large, firm, and crack-resistant.

Coville Large, crack-resistant fruit holds well on canes. Very productive and upright canes.

Late Blue Small, firm, flavorful fruit borne on erect, vigorous canes.

Elliott Very late and ornamental bush with red wood. Small to medium size fruit does not crack or drop.

Cultivars/PollinationNorthern Highbush (listed in order of ripening)

Pruning – Late Winter(constantly renew the older, decreasingly productive canes by cutting them out to force new canes)

2 Year Old Plants (at Planting)

• After planting prune 50-60% of the wood

• Take off any flowers

2-5 Year Old Plants• Light pruning in Feb/March

• Remove small twigs/branches from the middle of the bush

• largest berries are produced on moderately vigorous wood (branches 12- to 18-inches in length)

• Remove weak growth

Over 6 Year Old Plants• Healthy plant should be 5-7 feet tall

• Produce 3-5 new canes per year

• Remove canes over 1 inch diameter

• Remove lowest branches and branches in the middle of the bush

• Cut back overly long canes

• After pruning should have 12-18 canes of varying ageUniversity of Maryland

Harvest

• In general berries hold well on bushes

• Best quality when picking is done every 5-7 days

• Do not stack berries more then 4-5 inches deep

• Can store up to two weeks at 33° to 35°F and 85 percent humidity.

• At 70°F expect two to three days of shelf life.

Oregon State University

Protection from Animals

University of Kentucky

Growing Blueberries – Month by Month

Things to do When to do them

Adjust Soil pH Year before planting

Plant Blueberries bare-root plants March

Prune plant At planting or late winter

Control weeds Through season

Monitor for Pests/Disease Through season

Make sure animal control is in place June

Harvest ripe berries (after a few years) Late June-September (mostly July/August)

Clean up fallen leaves, fruit, debris October

Problems• Cold spring temperatures could destroy flowers

• Require about 500-750 hours of cold dormancy (this is usually met by early February). After chilling requirement plants usually lose dormancy and can be increasingly susceptible to cold injury.

• Pests and Disease problems are usually minimal.

• Remove; rake up from the ground and dispose of any infested or diseased fruit.

• Hand pull or gently cultivate around plants to control weeds which can harbor insect populations.

• Prune properly to improve spray coverage, encourage air circulation and sunlight penetration. Prune out dead, damaged or decaying branches, canes or stems.

• Keep plants vigorously growing by fertilizing according to our recommendations and keeping plants watered during dry periods.

https://pubs.ext.vt.edu/456/456-018/Section03-Home-Fruit-Disease-and-Insects.pdf

Bugbuide.net

Insect Stem Gall

Scale Insects

Washington State University

Twig Blight

North Carolina State University

North Carolina State University

Mummy Berry Cups

Mummy Berry

Insectimages.orgFruit Worms

forestryimages.org

Blueberry Tip Borer

Growables.org

Hardy Passionfruit -Maypops

http://tcpermaculture.blogspot.com

Passionfruit

• Varieties

• Growth

• Harvest

• Month by Month Tasks

• Problems

http://tcpermaculture.blogspot.com

VarietiesPassifloraincarnata -Maypop

Passifloracaerulea

Passifloraincarnata- Alba

Logees.com

Maypop.com

Terri Valenti

Terri Valenti

en.academic.ru

Growing Passiflora

• Full Sun

• Maypops – pop in May or… June

• Will grow up on anything!

• Better soil better plant

• Will spread – can become invasive. Keep contained in container

• Relatively problem freehttp://www.finegardening.com

Harvest

• Late Summer till Frost maypops will be mature

• Signs of ripeness• Goes from Kermit the Frog

green to light green/yellowish

• Wrinkly skin

• Seeds will be moist (dry seeds are not ready)

http://tcpermaculture.blogspot.com

Growing Hardy Passion Fruit – Month by Month

Things to do When to do them

Plant kiwifruit vines in spring after threat of frost May

Control weeds Through season

Tie new growth to trellis as needed June through September

Harvest ripe passion fruit Late August - October

Clean up fallen leaves, fruit, debris November

Passionfruit Problems

• Will spread – can become invasive. Keep contained in container.

• Fusarium Wilt – soil borne disease

Cornell University

http://www.waldeneffect.org

Cornell University

Terri Valenti

Hardy Kiwi

University of Minnesota

Hardy Kiwi

• Types• Species

• Varieties

• Growth• Site Selection

• Pruning

• Harvest

• Month by Month Tasks

• Problems

Old House Journal

Hardy Kiwi Species

• Fuzzy Kiwi (Actinidia deliciosa), Hardy Kiwi (Actinidia arguta), Artic Beauty Kiwi (Actinidia kolomikta)

• Kiwi’s require a male and female plant of the same type to get fruit.

• Issai (Hardy Kiwi) is somewhat self-pollinating

https://commons.wikimedia.org

http://www.goodnewsgardening.com

Artic Kiwi

Artic Kiwi (Actinidia

kolomikta)

Growth: Compact growth habit (less labor)Leaves: tri-color green-white-pink variegated foliageFruit: small grape-sized berries. Shelf-life: Fresh berries generally have a limited shelf life due to small size and high sugar content.Maturity: Fruit in a few years

Hardy Kiwi

(Actinidia arguta)

Growth: Vigorous, prune several times a year Leaves: Attractive foliage with glossy green leavesFruit: Large grape-sized berries, higher yieldsShelf-life: Longer shelf-life vs. Artic KiwiMaturity: Fruit in about 5 years

Hardy vs. Artic Kiwi

Hardy/Artic Kiwi Varieties

Arctic Beauty

• This name is the common name for kiwi of the species Actinidia kolomikta, rather than being a true variety.

Ananasnaya (Anna)

• The name of this variety in Russian means "pineapple like." Many nursery catalogs will refer to this variety as "Anna." The fruit is of very good quality, with a sweet aroma and intense flavor. The skin is green and develops a purple-red blush in the sun. A very vigorous vine, this variety is currently the only "standard" that we have to compare to others.

Dumbarton Oaks

• Named after the public garden in which an old vine of this variety was growing and from which plants of this variety were originally propagated. Has good flavor.

Geneva

• Several Geneva selections are available through nurseries. Fruit ripens earlier than either Anna or Issai, and that it has a good flavor.

Issai

• The only self-fertile variety (not requiring a male pollinator). It is from Japan and is less vigorous than other hardy kiwi varieties, with small fruit and good flavor. Fruit ripens unevenly within a cluster.

Meader

• Available as both a male and a female. Make sure to order the female if you want fruit from it. The fruit is medium sized.

University of Minnesota

Growing Hardy Kiwis

• Full Sun with some shade

• Slightly acidic, well drained soil

• Plant vines about 10 feet apart

• Kiwifruit vines are either male or female

• up to 8 females to 1 male

• Prune in winter and during season

• Vines fruit about 5 years after planting

• Kiwifruit vines are vigorous and heavy. Plant vines near a very sturdy structure.

University of Minnesotahttp://www.fassadengruen.de

Kiwi Supports

• Like grapes must be supported for good growth

• Typical T-post system with posts are approx. 10 feet apart and 6 feet wide

• Plant vines 10 feet apart

• Plants are more vigorous than grapes

Kiwi Pruning – First Two years

A Prune to two buds at planting.

B Train one shoot as trunk, remove all others (growing season, year 1).

C Head back trunk as shoot growth at terminal loses vigor (growing season, year 1).

D Continue to remove lateral shoots, let trunk grow beyond wire, then head to just below top wire (growing season, year 1).

E Choose two shoots to form cordons (lateral trunks). Head back to 1/4 inch diameter in dormant season (growing season, year 1).

F Shoot growth, year 2. Oregon State University

Pruning after Fruiting

Pruning Tips

Dormant Pruning

• Flowers are produced on current season shoots from 1 year old wood

• Shoots from older wood rarely produce flowers

• Up to 70% of the plant could be pruned off

• Fruiting canes develop on the base of the last year’s growth

• Prune last year’s fruiting arms

• Fruiting arms should be 8-12” apart on the cordon

Summer Pruning

• Prune out diseased, twisted wood

• Vigorous wood coming from the trunk or older wood

• Terminal growth 4-6 leaves past the last flower

• Summer pruning will be SUBSTANTIAL

http://growingtaste.com

Harvest

• A mature Hardy Kiwi Vine will on average produce 50 pounds of fruit

• Once fruit begins to soften it can be picked and allowed to fully ripen as commercial crops

• Fruit will hold in refrigerator for 2 months if allowed to fully ripen off the vine http://permaculturenews.org

Growing Hardy Kiwi – Month by Month

Things to do When to do them

Plant kiwifruit vines in spring after threat of frost May

Control weeds Through season

Tie new growth to trellis as needed June through September

Prune excessive growth (several times) June through September

Harvest ripe berries after testing a few Late September - October

Clean up fallen leaves, fruit, debris November

Prune dormant vines in early winter December

Hardy Kiwi Problems

• Somewhat frost sensitive• Rabbits are known to chew

bark in winter• Hardy Kiwi are being said to

be invasive in some soils in the North East but has not met criteria to be listed as invasive.

Cornell University

Hardy Kiwi invading a forest in Massachusetts

Late Frost Damage

http://www.waldeneffect.org

Cornell University

Hardy Kiwi – Disease

Problem: Phytophthora Crown and Root RotCause: Soil borne Pathogen - Soggy/Poorly Draining Soil

Effect: Reddish brown rots/crowns

http://pnwhandbooks.org

Problem: Botrytis Rot (Gray Mold)Cause: Fungus - Rain/high humidity

Effect: Mold causing mature fruit to rot

University of California

University of California

Problem: Crown GallCause: Bacterial disease – wounded vines

Effect: Growths that form and eventually encircle trunk

University of California

Problem: Bleeding CankerCause: bacterium – not common - weakened vines

Effect: Rusty Cankers that bleed (cut 12 inches below canker for control)

University of California

Problem: Armillaria Root RotCause: Fungus – brown/whitish shoestring like mass

under back from other crops or oak treesWet/Poor Drained soil

Effect: Rusty Cankers that bleed (cut 12 inches below canker for control)

University of California

University of California

Problem: Bacterial BlightCause: Bacterial disease – wounded areas,

chilling injury/rain/over wateringEffect: Yellowish petals, brown sunken spots

on petals/buds

Hardy Kiwi Pests

Japanese beetles

Root Knot Nematodes

https://bioweb.uwlax.edu

Two-spotted spider mites

http://entnemdept.ufl.edu

Leaf Rollers

http://ucanr.edu

Thrips

University of Arizonia

Where to Purchase Plants

• https://www.noursefarms.com/• Blueberries

• http://www.starkbros.com/• Blueberries, Hardy Kiwi

• http://ediblelandscaping.com/• Blueberries, Hardy Kiwi, Passionfruit

• http://www.logees.com• Hardy Kiwi, Passionfruit