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Public
Industrial & Consumer SpecialtiesAD Personal Care
Dr. Frederic Pilz
19.02.2010
Preserve more with less- increasing the performance of preservatives with Velsan® SC
PublicDr. Frederic PilzIndustrial & Consumer SpecialtiesAD Personal Care04.03.2011
Dr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) Slide 204.03.2011Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with less
Velsan® SC
hydrotrope, co-emulsifying agent for cosmetic formulations
synergistic efficacy booster for preservative systems
100 % based on renewable resources
low odour, non volatile liquid
Ecocert approved
not listed as a preservative
cost effective alternative to 1,2-Octanediol or Ethylhexylglycerin
Dr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) Slide 304.03.2011Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with less
Velsan® SC- the benefits
hydrotrope, co-emulsifying agent for cosmetic formulations– multifunctional cosmetic ingredient with a HLB of approx. 11 (calculated)– Sorbitan Esters used since many years mild products with excellent toxicological profile
synergistic efficacy booster for preservative systems– boosts efficacy of classical preservative like aromatic alcohols or organic acids synergistically– efficacy comparable to aromatic alcohols like Phenoxyethanol or Benzyl Alcohol– helps to lower the overall amount of classical preservatives needed for a safe preservation– resulting in milder formulations (less irritation or sensitization potential)– reduces negative side-effects of other antimicrobials: instability due to thinning, odour
not listed as a preservative– in combination with other non-listed actives “preservative-free” claim possible– can be used globally without limitations
Dr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) Slide 404.03.2011Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with less
Velsan® SC- the benefits
100 % based on renewable resources– Sorbitan via Sorbitol from wheat/corn and Octanoic acid from coco/palm oil– no formaldehyde-release, not halogenated
low odour, non volatile liquid– does not cause odour even if used at high concentrations
cost effective alternative to 1,2-Octanediol or Ethylhexylglycerin– efficacy comparable to other non-listed polyols– in contrast to these synthetic polyols, Velsan® SC is 100 % based on renewable resources
pH independent– can be used within a wide pH range from pH 5-8– excellent in combination with organic acids at a pH < 6– excellent in combination with aromatic alcohols or e.g. MIT within pH 5-8
Dr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) Slide 504.03.2011Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with less
Velsan® SC- properties
amber coloured, medium viscous liquid– INCI: Sorbitan Caprylate– heat stable up to 80 °C– easy to use, easy dosage– no impact on colour of formulation
the green alternative– sustainable being based on renewable resources– readily biodegradable according to OECD 301 B
Ecocert approved– applied for the NaTrue list
O
OHOH
OHO
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Synergism with Aromatic Alcohols
Dr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) Slide 704.03.2011Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with less
Velsan® SC- synergism with Phenoxyethanol and Benzyl alcohol
MIC data of Velsan® SC in comparison to and combination with Phenoxyethanol and Benzyl Alcohol
combination with Phenoxyethanol or Benzyl Alcohol helps to close the gap against Pseudomonas aeruginosa
the often not wanted/unpleasant odour of Phenoxyethanol is reduced by combining it 1:1 with Velsan® SC leading to an even better performance
Velsan® SC Phenoxyethanol Velsan® SC, Phenoxyethanol
1:1 blend
Benzyl Alcohol Velsan® SC, Benzyl Alcohol
1:1 blend
Pseudomonas aeruginosa
1 0.25 0.25 0.125 0.5
Staphylococcus aureus
0.25 0.125 0.063 0.25 0.032
Candida albicans 0.016 0.032 0.008 0.063 0.008
Aspergillus brasiliensis
0.5 0.5 0.25 0.25 0.5
Dr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) Slide 804.03.2011Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with less
Challenge Tests
Challenge Tests shown were done in accordance to Ph.Eur. guidelines for topical preparations
Log reduction criteria A, B and F are represented by colour codes
A = B = F =
Dr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) Slide 904.03.2011Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with less
Velsan® SC- recipe of Challenge Test shampoo AI 8146
basic shampoo formulation with low surfactant concentration added milk protein serves as a nutrient increasing the preservation hurdlerecipe:
Ingredients Weight-%Sodium Laureth Sulfate 13.70Water ad 100 Coco-Betaine 6.00Sodium Chloride 1.40Hydrolyzed Milk Protein 1.00
Dr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) Slide 1004.03.2011Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with less
Velsan® SC- Challenge Test results of test shampoo AI 8146
A = B = F =
Preservative blend Test system Use conc. Efficacy at pH 5.5
Piroctone Olamine shampoo 0.05 %
Piroctone Olamine + Velsan® SC ,, 0.05 % + 1.0 %
Piroctone Olamine + Velsan® SC ,, 0.05 % + 1.5 %
Pseudom. aerug.
Staph. aureus
Candida albicans
Asperg. bras.
unpreserved ,, ---
Piroctone Olamine + Velsan® SC ,, 0.05 % + 2.0 %
Piroctone Olamine as the sole preservative is not strong enough at this concentration to preserve this formulation
adding Velsan® SC in 0.5 % intervals it helps to improve the test results and to achieve an overall pass of the formulation
Dr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) Slide 1104.03.2011Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with less
Velsan® SC- guide recipe for a mild shampoo BI 1164
Mild EO- and Sulfate-free shampoo
A Hostapon® SG Surfactant 30.00 %Sodium Cocyl Glycinate
Genagen® KB Co-Surfactant 25.00 %Coco-Betaine
Genagen® CME Thickener 1.00 %Cocoamide MEA
Velsan® SC Synergist 2.10 %Sorbitan Caprylate
Water ad 100 %
B Preservative q.s.
Fragrance q.s.
C Citric Acid 25 % 0.70 %
Procedure:
I Mix the components of A while heating to approx. 70°C.
II Cool down to 30°C and add the components of B while stirring.
III Finally adjust the pH with C
Viscosity: 2900 mPas
Dr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) Slide 1204.03.2011Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with less
guide recipe shampoo containing 2.10 % Velsan® SC as sole preservative fails only against Gram-negative bacteria Pseudomonas aeruginosa
addition of Benzyl alcohol or Phenoxyethanol helps to close this gap
overall use concentration of aromatic alcohols well below max. allowed limitno interference with perfume due to lower concentration of aromatic alcohols
Velsan® SC- Challenge Test results of guide recipe BI 1164
A = B = F =
Preservative blend Test system Use conc. Efficacy at pH 7.0
--- guide recipe shampoo ---
Benzyl Alcohol ,, + 0.3 %
,, ,, + 0.6 %
Pseudom. aerug.
Staph. aureus
Candida albicans
Asperg. bras.
,, + 0.6 %
Phenoxyethanol + 0.3 %
,,
,,
Synergism with Organic Acids
Dr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) Slide 1404.03.2011Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with less
Velsan® SC- recipe of Challenge Test cream AVI 1998
leave-on cosmetics are in general more prone to a contamination by fungi as level of water is reduced vs. rinse-off formulations and often the pH is lower
natural based formulations are more challenging to preserverecipe:
Ingredients Weight-% Ingredients Weight-%
Water ad 100 % Simmondsia Chinensis Oil (Jojoba Oil) 1.3 % Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil (Grape seed oil) 6.0 % Lecithin 1.0 %Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 6.0 % Guar Gum 0.5 %Glycerin 3.0 % Xanthan Gum 0.5 %Cetearyl Alcohol 3.0 % Sodium Citrate ~ 1.0 %Glyceryl Stearate 3.0 % Tocopherol Acetate 0.5 %Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Almond oil) 2.5 % Allantoin 0.3 %Cetearyl Glucoside 2.0 % Panthenol 0.3 %Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil 1.5 %(Apricot Kernel Oil)
Dr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) Slide 1504.03.2011Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with less
Velsan® SC- Challenge Test results of test cream AVI 1998
excellent in combination with organic acidsChallenge Test results in hard to preserve cream
helps to preserve the formulation at natural skin pHreduced skin irritation potential if pH is close to skins neutral pH value of pH 4.9
A = B = F =
Preservative blend Test system Use conc. Efficacy at pH 5.0
Benzoic Acid cream 0.4 %
Benzoic Acid + Velsan® SC ,, 0.4 % + 0.5 %
Benzoic Acid + Velsan® SC ,, 0.4 % + 1.0 %
Benzoic Acid + Velsan® SC ,,
Phenoxyethanol + 5 Parabens ,, 0.9 %
Phenoxyethanol + 5 Parabens ,, 1.2 %
Pseudom. aerug.
Staph. aureus
Candida albicans
Asperg. bras.
unpreserved ,,
0.4 % + 1.5 %
---
Dr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) Slide 1604.03.2011Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with less
Challenge Test results of Anisic Acid (p-Methoxybenzoic Acid) in combination with Velsan® SC in hard to preserve test creamas both substances are not listed, “preservative-free” claim is possible
excellent combination of Velsan® SC with natural activesexcellent preservation and still “preservative-free”
Velsan® SC- Challenge Test results of test cream AVI 1998
Preservative blend Test system Use conc. Efficacy at pH 5.0
Anisic Acid cream 0.4 %
Anisic Acid + Velsan® SC ,, 0.4 % + 0.5 %
Anisic Acid + Velsan® SC ,, 0.4 % + 1.0 %
Anisic Acid + Velsan® SC ,,
Anisic Acid + Velsan® SC ,,
unpreserved ,, ---
Pseudom. aerug.
Staph. aureus
Candida albicans
Asperg. bras.A = B = F =
0.4 % + 1.5 %
0.4 % + 2.0 %
Dr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) Slide 1704.03.2011Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with less
Daycream with Coenzyme Q 10
A Hostacerin® SFO (Clariant) Emulsifier 2.00 %Sunflower Seed Oil Sorbitol EstersVelsan® CCT (Clariant) Emollient 4.50 %Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetiol® OE Dicaprylyl Ether 4.50 %EmollientLanette® 22 Stabilizer 4.00 %Behenyl AlcoholLanette® 18 Stabilizer 4.00 %Stearyl AlcoholFucogel 1000 Skin Conditioning Agent 1.00 %Biosaccharide Gum-1
B Coenzyme Q 10 Active 0.10 %Ubiquinone
C Water ad 100.00 %Glycerin 10.00 %HumectantHostaphat® CK 100 (Clariant) Emulsifier 0.60 %Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
D Velsan® SC (Clariant) Synergist 1.50 %Sorbitan Caprylatep-Anisic Acid 0.40 %Fragrance
E NaOH (10%) q.s.Neutralizer
I Heat mixture of components A to 80°C.
II Heat mixture of components C to 80°C.
III Add B to I.IV Add II to III and stir until cool.V Add D to IV.VI Finally adjust the pH carefully
with E to 5.5.
Dr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) Slide 1804.03.2011Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with less
Challenge Test results for daycream preserved with Anisic Acid and Velsan® SCAlthough at 0.4 % use concentration of Anisic Acid the overall criteria are not changed, there was a further reduction in log scale
Challenge Test results Daycream with Coenzyme Q10
Preservative blend Test system Use conc. Efficacy at pH 5.5
Anisic Acid + Velsan® SC ,, 0.3% + 1.0 %
Anisic Acid + Velsan® SC ,,
Anisic Acid + Velsan® SC ,,
unpreserved ,, ---
Pseudom. aerug.
Staph. aureus
Candida albicans
Asperg. bras.A = B = F =
0.3 % + 1.5 %
0.4 % + 1.5 %
Comparison to 1,2-Octantediol and Ethylhexylglycerin
Dr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) Slide 2004.03.2011Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with less
Velsan® SC- in comparison to other alternatives
Velsan® SC is comparable to other alternatives found in the marketgap against Pseudomonas aeruginosa can easily be closed by combination with
aromatic alcohols
Velsan® SC 1,2-Octanediol Ethylhexylglycerin
Pseudomonas aeruginosa
1 0.25 0.25
Staphylococcus aureus
0.032 0.125 0.125
Candida albicans 0.2 0.2 0.1
Aspergillus brasiliensis
0.2 0.1 0.1
Summary
Dr. Frederic Pilz, Industrial & Consumer Specialties, AD Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) Slide 2204.03.2011Public – Velsan® SC - Preserve more with less
Velsan® SC
Velsan® SC
… is a synergistic preservative booster
… works excellent in combination with classical preservatives e.g. aromatic alcohols, organic acids, other actives like Piroctone Olamine
… reduces thinning and odour problems encountered with some actives without decreasing a safe preservation
… is 100 % based on renewable resources
… is approved by Ecocert
… can be used for “preservative-free” cosmetics in combination with non-listed actives
Velsan® SC is the multifunctional, economic synergist
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