5 seams 02

INTRODUCTION TO

FASHION & APPAREL

ESSENTIALGARMENT

CONSTRUCTION

SEAMS

a. Assembly of cut parts to form a garment with applications of SEAMS & STITCHES.

b. Fastening items and methods

c. Additional interest on garment

d. Application of decoration and or functional means (i.e.pockets).

ESSENTIAL GARMENT CONSTRUCTION

ESSENTIAL GARMENT CONSTRUCTION

is assembled by joining fabrics together with the application of SEAMS & STITCHES.

A seam is a joint of two pieces of fabric in producing a three -dimensional shape of a garment

SEWN GARMENT–

SEAM CONSTRUCTION – Categorised by the British Standards Institution (BS 3870 PART II: 1991, also ISO 4916:1991) The Stitched seams are divided into eight classes:

Class 1 - Plain seam & French seamClass 2 - Welt seam Class 3 - Bound seam Class 4 - Channel seam Class 5 - Ornamental seam Class 6 - Turned hem Class 7 - Edge stitched seam Class 8 - Enclosed seam

SEAMS

SEAMS DESIGNATIONEach stitched seam is designed numerically by five digits:

0.00.00 refers to the CLASS, 1-8;0.00.00 refers to the material

configulation, 01 to 99;0.00.00 refers to needle penetrations,

material configulations, 01-99.

SEAMS

Stitched seams classification are governed by following factors:

BS specification:

1. Components in the seam - Minimum/total components within the seam,

2. Relative position of each component within the seam, and

3. Unlimited and limited width - Width of the component, which ends may either be 'unlimited' or 'limited'.

SEAMS

– Formed by superimposing the edge of one piece of component over the other, these seams are produced with a minimum of two pieces of component. Each component is limited on the same end.

Class 1

Location of needle Location of needle penetration of passagepenetration of passage

BS 3870 1991BS 3870 1991Part IIPart II

1.01.011.01.01

Fabric Fabric configurationconfiguration 1.01.021.01.02

1.01.031.01.03

1.01.041.01.04

1.01.051.01.05

Location of needle Location of needle penetration of passagepenetration of passage

BS 3870 1991BS 3870 1991Part IIPart II

1.06.011.06.01

1.06.021.06.02

1.06.031.06.03

1.06.041.06.04

Fabric Fabric configurationconfiguration

SEAMS

pieces of component, they are produced with minimum of two pieces of component.

One component is limited on one end

– Formed by lapping two

and the other is limited on the other end. The limited edges of these two components are put in opposite directions.

Class 2

Location of needle Location of needle penetration of passagepenetration of passage

BS 3870 1991BS 3870 1991Part IIPart II

2.04.052.04.05

2.04.062.04.06

2.04.072.04.07

2.04.082.04.08

2.04.012.04.01

2.04.022.04.02

2.04.032.04.03

2.04.042.04.04

Fabric Fabric configurationconfiguration

SEAMS

– Constructed by binding the component edge with another narrow component. The seam produced with minimum of two pieces of component.

One component is limited on one end and the other is limited on both ends.

Class 3

Location of needle Location of needle penetration of passagepenetration of passage

BS 3870 1991BS 3870 1991Part IIPart II

3.01.013.01.01

3.01.023.01.02Fabric Fabric configurationconfiguration

3.03.013.03.01

3.04.013.04.01

3.05.013.05.01

SEAMS

– Two pieces of fabric are laid flat with their edges closing each other without overlapping. Seams are produced with minimum of two pieces of component.

Both components are limited on one end but they are put opposition to each other on the same level.

Class 4

SEAMS

Class 4

Location of needle Location of needle penetration of passagepenetration of passage

BS 3870 1991BS 3870 1991Part IIPart II

4.01.014.01.01

Fabric Fabric configuration 4.01.024.01.02configuration

4.03.024.03.02

4.07.014.07.01

SEAMS

– A seam class for decorative sewing on garments.

Seams are produced with minimum of one piece of component, with unlimited edges on both ends.

Class 5

Location of needle Location of needle penetration of passagepenetration of passage

BS 3870 1991BS 3870 1991Part IIPart II

Stitching Stitching lineslines

5.01.015.01.01

5.01.025.01.02

5.02.015.02.01

5.03.015.03.01

Fabric Fabric configurationconfiguration

SEAMS

– Stitching work made on the fabric edges for neatening.

Seams are produced with one piece of component. This seam has one limited edge on one end.

Class 6

Location of needle Location of needle penetration of passagepenetration of passage

BS 3870 1991BS 3870 1991Part IIPart II

6.02.016.02.01Fabric Fabric configurationconfiguration 6.02.036.02.03

6.03.046.03.04

6.08.016.08.01

6.02.076.02.07

SEAMS

– A narrow piece is sewn to the edge of a garment part.

Seams are produced with minimum of two pieces of component. One component is limited on one end, and the other narrow one is limited on both ends.

Class 7

Location of needle Location of needle penetration of passagepenetration of passage

BS 3870 1991BS 3870 1991Part IIPart II

7.09.057.09.05

7.09.067.09.06

7.09.077.09.07

7.09.097.09.09

7.09.017.09.01Fabric Fabric configurationconfiguration

7.09.027.09.02

7.09.037.09.03

7.09.047.09.04

SEAMS

the seam, stitches are applied on its edge/s.

Seams are produced with minimum of one piece of component with a limited edge on two ends.

– Only one piece of component involved in construction Class 8

Location of needle Location of needle penetration of passagepenetration of passage

BS 3870 1991BS 3870 1991Part IIPart II

8.02.018.02.01

8.06.018.06.01

8.06.028.06.02

8.09.018.09.01

8.19.018.19.01

Fabric Fabric configurationconfiguration

SEAMS

it affects the performance and appearance of the garment.

Important points to be considered:

SEAM WIDTH and SEAM FINISH -

Fabric typesBulk and weight 2. Fabric construction3. Fibre contents4. General stability5. Stability of cut edges6. Surface characteristics……….

SEAMS

SEAM WIDTH and SEAM FINISH - it affects the performance and appearance of the garment.

Important points to be considered:

Garment types7. Caring –

Washing/dry cleaning & pressing needs8. Life expectancy of garment 9. Performance expected of garment10. Seam stresses and strains during wear