AirCrete Dome Building Workshop  Student Manual 

  

DomeGaia 2018. Proprietary and confidential material. 

Table of Contents Aircrete Recipe and Mixing with the Little Dragon 2

Pouring a Circular AirCrete Foundation Slab 4

Making and using block forms 7

Dome Building Workflow Overview 9

Making Frames for Elliptical Arch 10

Constructing Round Window Forms 12

Making A Compass Arm 15

Stacking Arches With Frame 16

Laying Blocks In The Dome 17

AirCrete Mortar for Stacking Blocks 20

Making a Rasp 21

Mixing Fabric Glue 21

Applying Fabric reinforcement 22

Appendix 24 Tools List 24 Materials List 26 Drawing an Ellipse with String 28 Making Stucco and Plaster 30 Sacred Geometry 30 Digital Root, 3, 6, 9, 432 and Harmonics 31 Site Selection 34 Dome Design Options 34 Concrete Science and History 38 Building Codes & Permits 40

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Aircrete Recipe and Mixing with the Little Dragon

AirCrete Mixing Tools

1. Little Dragon Foam Generator 2. Foam-injection mixer, or other appropriate mixer 3. Air-compressor (at least 2.5 cfm) 4. Mixing Bucket (55 gallon drum) 5. Foam Agent Bucket (5-35 gal) 6. Trowel 7. Water Buckets

1. Foam Agent (7th gen dish soap) 2. Wood (for form) 3. Poly Tubing 4. Wheelbarrow 5. Scale (digital kitchen, postal or other accurate scale) 6. Liter Container 7. Quart Containers 8. Gloves, Dust Mask, Eye Protection

Recipe

AirCrete (yield: 45 Gal) Seventh Generation Foam Agent 2.5% Mixture

6 Gallons Water 16 oz Seventh Generation* 94 Lb Cement 5 Gallons Water

Expand with Foam to 45 Gallons

STEP 1: Prime the Little Dragon. Prime the pump by running it before you attach the air hose until liquid comes out of the foam wand. If there is no liquid in the pump before the air hose is attached, the air pressure will keep the foam agent from entering the system. STEP 2: Attach the air hose and adjust the air pressure regulator on the Little Dragon so that the foam weighs 90-100 grams per liter. Change the weight by adjusting the air pressure. More air for lighter foam, and less air for heavier foam. If the foam is too heavy or too light the AirCrete is more likely to collapse. STEP 3: Connect the foam wand to the foam injection mixer (but don’t turn on the little dragon yet). STEP 4: In a 55 gallon drum, pour 6 gallons of water. Water before cement makes mixing easier. STEP 5: Run the mixer while gradually adding 94 lbs of pure Portland cement to the water. DO NOT breathe the cement dust. Check with a trowel for lumps in the drum. Make sure the

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cement is consistently mixed. (very important! You don’t want any cement powder chunks in the bottom of the barrel or it will throw off the ratio for the whole batch) STEP 6: Turn on the Little Dragon while the mixer is running and fill the container up to 45 gallons. Mix while adding foam. Continue mixing until all the foam is mixed in. Keep the blade at the bottom of the bucket. Foam is light and wants to float on top. Keeping the mixing blade in the bottom forces the foam where the mixture is the heaviest until you’ve reached the 45 gallon line then you can turn off the little dragon and continue mixing until you have a consistent color. At this point you can bring the mixer up to the top. Mix very well. Note: * Other foaming agents are more watery due to the lack of glycerin. If using an agent that is not seventh generation; use less water cutting back by ½ gallon until desired consistency.

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Pouring a Circular AirCrete Foundation Slab Tools List

1. Bender 2. Metal Saw 3. Hammer and Pole Driver 4. Stakes 5. Mallet 6. 4’ Level 7. Tape measure 8. Drill 9. Fabric Clips 10.Screed board 11.AirCrete Mixing Tools 12.Trowel on Pole 13.Water Protection Cover

Materials List

1. EMT 2. 1.5’ pipe 3. Screws 4. Reinforcing fabric 5. Vapor Barrier 6. Gloves 7. Trowels 8. Water 9. Aircrete

STEP 1: Prepare the ground. Different climates require different preparation. If necessary consult with an engineer or local contractor. It’s recommended to dig below the frost line and put in a curtain drain to prevent frost heaving in cold climate. STEP 2: Using Bender, bend ¾” EMT to match the circumference of the foundation. The foundation can extend beyond the perimeter of the dome to include the arches. Or the foundation can match the footprint of the dome, in which case you need to build forms for a footer to support any arches. STEP 3: With Hammer or pole driver, drive a 1.5” pipe into the ground. Cut it 34” high. This will serve as the center pivot for the compass arm and the screed board. STEP 4: With a 4’ level, a mallet, and a tape measure, stake and level the EMT perimeter. Secure the EMT to the stakes with screws. Use a 4’ level attached to the screed board, extending from the center pivot to the EMT circumference. Make the screed board such that it measures the length of the radius of the circle you wish to form. The screed board and level set at the radius will ensure the circle is centered upon the pole. Drive the stakes outside the EMT. This way the stakes will not become embedded in the AirCrete. Cut the top of the stakes so that they will not

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interfere with the screed board. Or make the board the perfect length so it only goes to the edge of the EMT and doesn’t hit the stakes as it goes around. Be sure to use enough stakes to support the EMT ring, as the weight of the aircrete can bend the ring in between stakes if they are spaced too far apart. You can make the screed board slightly higher at the pivot point than on the circumference. This keeps water from pooling in the middle of the pad. Ensure that the screed board can pivot 360 degrees around the center pole. In order to achieve a smooth finish the screed will need to rotate in a continuous revolution around the center pole. STEP 5: (For Cold Climates Only) - Lay down a plastic vapor barrier. The plastic keeps water from leaching from the ground into the pad. AirCrete needs to retain the water mixed in with it in order to cure with maximum strength. STEP 6: Attach reinforcing fabric to the EMT circumference. The fabric serves as a barrier around the AirCrete to keep it in the EMT circle. The fabric must be long enough to extend into the form at least one foot. As the fabric approaches the ground ensure it does not slant inward. It must either be loose or fall straight down before reaching the ground. If the fabric slopes inward, the edge of the pad will not reach the ground and is more likely to break when the pad is hardened. This eliminates the need for sheet metal or wood on the circumference of the form. The weight of the AirCrete on the fabric laying on the ground will keep it from moving outward. STEP 7: Pour AirCrete. If you desire to put rubble into the form to reduce amount of AirCrete needed, do not let it obstruct the path of the screed. If it hits the screed, it will produce a gouge in the surface of the AirCrete and prevent a smooth finish. STEP 8: Screed by rotating screed board around center pole until surface is smooth. Remove screed. Screed quickly and move on. Aircrete surfaces will easily catch the screed and tear if allowed to set up first, or when re-screeding. STEP 9: If necessary cover the pad to protect it from rain, or to protect it from evaporation. Wait until the pad is hard enough to resist imprint to lay the cover. This will prevent unwanted irregularities in the surface of the pad. STEP 10: In a dry climate, keep the pad moist for 2 or 3 days by sprinkling the top of the pad with water. Ensure that the water application does not damage the surface. If the pad dries too rapidly it won’t cure properly and it is more likely to crack. Notes:

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Foundations for places that have freezing temperatures In this case, in addition to what’s shown to the right, and talked about above, we recommend creating a curtain drain below the foundation. Dig a 12”-18” wide trench to the depth of the frost line (at least). Line the trench with garden fabric (normally for weed control). Add a perforated drain pipe in the bottom. The bottom of the trench will need to be sloped down so the pipe has a central place to drain far away from the building. Then fill the trench with drainage gravel/stone and tamp it down. The fabric for the aircrete foundation will need to cover the gravel completely so the aircrete doesn’t get down into the gravel.

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Making and using block forms Tools List

1. Saw 2. Tape Measure 3. Vice Grips 4. Drill 5. Plastic Sheet 6. Paint Brushes 7. Gloves 8. AirCrete Mixing Tools 9. Screed

Materials List

1. Lumber for Forms 2. Door Hinges, toggle clamps (recommended), or other

hardware for fastening forms together 3. 4” x 12” sheet metal 4. Screws 5. Oil 6. AirCrete ingredients

STEP 1: Cut four boards to the desired length for the form. 4’x 8’ example at right. STEP 2: Fasten the forms together. Hinges or toggle clamps (best option) work well for this because they allow the forms to come apart quickly when the AirCrete has set. If the hardware is not available you can simply screw the forms together. STEP 3: Lay down a sheet of plastic where you wish to poor the blocks. This keeps the blocks from sticking to the ground. STEP 4: Set the form on the plastic. Make sure that the form is square. STEP 5: Lift the plastic on the outside of the form, and secure it. Use strips of masonite or plywood to hold the plastic in place. This is so that if the AirCrete should leak from under the form, the plastic will catch it. STEP 6: Grease wood and plastic by applying veggie oil or other release agent to the surfaces the AirCrete will touch. Paint brushes or rollers work well for this. Oil helps the cement release from the wood once it is hardened.

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STEP 7: Fill form with AirCrete. STEP 8: Screed the top of the Aircrete. This makes the AirCrete smooth. STEP 9: Depending on the environment, you may need to cover the AirCrete with plastic. Cover the curing AirCrete in hot, dry conditions to slow the water evaporation and increase the final strength of the AirCrete. STEP 10: Depending on the environment, you may need to mist the top of the AirCrete with water. Wait until the AirCrete is hard enough to not be marked by the water you apply. Apply water to curing AirCrete to increase its final strength. How do I know when it’s time to cut the blocks? P.S. Keep aircrete out of direct sunlight while it is drying Notes:

If your form is made by 2x4’s you can use a sheet metal blade to cut the AirCrete into blocks. If it’s made with 2x6’s or larger lumber; then you may need to insert sheet metal into the form to separate the blocks. We’ve explored a lot of different ways to make these forms most recently using the sheet metal dividers which was costly. Use plier grips to pull the sheet metal out of the forms. If sheet metal is used be sure to grease it as well. In theory, the best way would be to cut by wire but we haven’t fully developed the model yet.

You can make a guide to cut blocks into bricks which will be used to build the dome. We generally make our bricks 12x12. If you make a guide; be sure to have it 1” taller than the block forms.

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Dome Building Workflow Overview

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Making Frames for Elliptical Arch Tools

1. Tape measure 2. Bender 3. Center Punch 4. Hammer 5. Drill 6. Drill Bits 7. Driver Bits 8. Saw 9. Router 10.1’ Ball Bit 11.20 3” 2x4 blocks

Materials

1. 4-EMT Poles 2. 1” Lumber (enough to make 6-1”x2”x 45” lengths) 3. 3 “ Screws (for fastening strips) 4. ¾” Screws (for fastening plywood) 5. 2-Hinges 6. Plastic Sheet 7. 4’x8’ Sheet of ⅛” plywood or masonite

STEP 1: For a 10’ wide x 7.5’ tall; draw a quarter of the Ellipse with major axis 116” and minor axis 84” on the work table. For a 7’ wide x 7.5’ tall; draw a quarter of the Ellipse with major axis 88.5” and minor axis 48” on the work table. STEP 2: Route the 3” side of the 2x4 blocks with the 1” ball bit and screw them along the drawn Ellipse line on the table with the routed side towards the outside of the Ellipse. Route the ends at ½” depth. STEP 3: Bend the EMT into four identical arcs. With the spring back of the EMT they will take the shape needed for the arch being created. When using the bender ensure that the EMT does not lift away from the ground, or push into the ground but remains on the plane. STEP 4: Using a center punch and a hammer, punch the EMT on one side at 1” from each end of the EMT. This helps with drilling. STEP 5: Drill holes at each of the punches. Ensure you drill square. Ensure the holes are smaller than the heads of the screws that you will use to secure the cross bars to the EMT. If the holes are too large, the screws will not catch the EMT. STEP 6: Cut 1” thick pieces of lumber into 45” lengths. STEP 7: Route the ends with a 1” ball bit at a depth slightly less than ½”. It may be helpful to make a jig to ensure each cut is identical.

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STEP 8: Rip the lumber into 2” widths. STEP 9: Take two of the bent EMT arcs, and two of the 45” lumber strips. Line up the lumber so the EMT sits in the routed grove, and screw them on as crossbars to the EMT on each end. You may want to pre-drill into the lumber to prevent splitting. Ensure the screws go into the center of the wood strips. STEP 10: Take a sheet of plywood or masonite and screw a 45” crossbar to one end. Ensure the crossbar is centered. Set the crossbar so that the plywood covers 1” of its width, and 1” of its width is showing. This will make for proper alignment when fastening the plywood and allow another sheet of plywood to be attached to this crossbar. STEP 11: With one screw, fasten the empty end of the sheet of plywood or masonite to one crossbar on the top outside of the EMT frame. Ensure the sheet of plywood is centered on the crossbar. Ensure the previously attached crossbar from step 10 is between the plywood sheet and the EMT frame. STEP 12: Pull the end of the plywood or masonite into the frame so that the 45” crossbar fits between the EMT. Pull the plywood until it fits against the EMT with no gaps. Mark where the crossbar touches the EMT. Lightly bending the frame to straighten the arc will help with this. The marks should be the same distance from an end of the frame. STEP 13: Repeat steps 4 and 5 on the mark. STEP 14: Attach the crossbar that is fastened to the plywood or masonite to the EMT where you drilled the holes. STEP 15: Finish fastening the plywood or masonite to the crossbar at the end of the frame. STEP 16: Repeat steps 9-16 with the other two pieces of EMT. STEP 17: To the top end of each of the arc frames, attach two hinges to connect them. STEP 18: Stand the arch frame up and brace it in position where you wish to build. Brace well. The less the frame moves the stronger the arch. STEP 19: Cover the frame with plastic. This preserves the life of the frame by keeping it dry.

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Constructing Round Window Forms Tools

1. Tape Measure 2. Bender 3. Center Punch 4. Hammer 5. Drill 6. Drill Bits 7. Driver Bits 8. Saw 9. Router 10.1’ Ball Routing Bit 11.Plastic Sheet 12.Scissors 13.Razor 14.AirCrete Mixing Tools (see Recipes) 15.Screed

Materials

1. EMT 2. EMT Couplings 3. ⅛” x 4’ x 8’ Plywood or masonite sheets 4. 1” Lumber (enough to make 8- 2” strips) 5. 2” Screws (for fastening strips) 6. ¼ “ PVC Pipe (enough for 8 spacers) 7. Fabric 8. AirCrete mixing supplies 9. Plastic Sheet

STEP 1: Determine what you want the inside diameter of your window to be. Calculate the circumference of this circle and cut enough EMT to make two identical circles. Circumference = diameter x 3.14. Keep in mind the outside diameter of this circle minus ¼” will be the inside diameter of your window. STEP 2: With the Bender, bend pieces of EMT on the determined radius. When using the bender ensure that the EMT does not lift away from the ground, or push into the ground but remains about ¾” from the ground. This prevents warping of the EMT. It would be helpful to draw on the table the circle that you wish to create. If you can, determine a setting for the bender so that you can bend each piece in one pass. This makes it easier to bend identical arcs. STEP 3: Connect the pieces into circles. EMT couplings work well for this. STEP 4: Pre-drill holes in the EMT. Ensure you drill square. This allows the screw to pass through straight and prevents the drill bit from breaking.

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STEP 5: Cut 1” thick pieces of lumber to the length that you wish the depth of your window to be. Keep in mind when calculating, that the finished window form will be 3” deeper than the strips. STEP 6: Route the ends of the strips with a 1” ball bit at a depth slightly less than ½”. It may be helpful to make a jig to ensure each cut is identical. STEP 7: Rip the lumber into 2” wide strips. You should make four strips. STEP 8: Take the two EMT circles, and one of the routed lumber strips. Line up the lumber so the EMT sits in the routed grove, and screw the strip to the EMT as a crossbar. You may want to pre-drill into the lumber. Ensure the screws go into the center of the wood strips. This prevents splitting. STEP 9: Rip sheets of plywood or masonite to your desired width. 2’ for example. STEP 10: Screw a routed strip to one end of a piece plywood or masonite. Ensure the strip is centered. Set the strips so that the plywood covers 1” of its width, and 1” of its width is showing. This will allow another sheet of plywood to be attached to this strip. STEP 11: With five screws, fasten the other end of the sheet of plywood or masonite outside the circumference of the frame to the crossbar, on the the frame. Ensure the sheet of plywood is centered on the crossbar. Ensure the previously attached strip from step 10 is between the plywood sheet and the EMT frame. STEP 12: Push the end of the plywood or masonite against the frame so that the strip from step 11 fits into the EMT. Push the plywood until it fits against the EMT with no gaps. Mark where the center of the strip sits on the EMT. STEP 13: Repeat steps 4 and 11 on your marks. STEP 14: Continue around the frame in this manner until the frame is completely covered. STEP 15: Determine what you want the outside diameter of your window to be. Calculate the circumference of this circle and cut enough EMT to make two identical circles of this size. Keep in mind that the outside diameter of your circle will be the circumference of the circle minus ¼”. STEP 16 Follow the above outlined procedures to make an outer form for the window. The only difference is that the plywood or masonite should be on the inside of the frame not the outside. STEP 17: Cover both frames with plastic sheet. This preserves the life of the frames. STEP 18: Cut two pieces of fabric. One slightly longer than the circumference of the inner circle, and the other slightly longer than the circumference of the outer circle.

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STEP 19: Use the pieces of fabric to cover the inside of the outer frame and the outside of the inner frame. Tape will work well for this. STEP 20: Cut six spacers out of quarter inch PVC or any other material that are as wide as you want your window to be. Usually DomeGaia uses 4” spacers. STEP 21: Set the form so that it is level with the smaller form inside the larger form, with the six spacers in the top, evenly spread out. STEP 22: Fill the form with AirCrete STEP 23: Screed the top of the form. This creates a nice flat surface. STEP 24: Depending on the weather and climate, it may be necessary to cover the form to protect it from rain, or to protect it from evaporation. STEP 25: Depending on the climate it may be necessary to mist the AirCrete in order to keep it saturated with water. Ensure that the water application does not damage the surface of the AirCrete or the form. If the water evaporates too rapidly as it cures, the AirCrete would be more likely to crack. STEP 26: Allow at least two days before removing the outer form and setting the window in place. If you move the window too soon, the AirCrete could crack. Notes: Make sure your drill has a low gear ratio for bending or it won’t work!

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Making A Compass Arm There are several ways to support your compass arm. You can drive a pole into the ground, use a tripod firmly anchored to the ground or any other method you may devise. Tools List

1. Fence post driver 2. Drill

Materials List

1. Center Pole 2. Wood 3. Screws 4. Hinges 5. EMT couplers 6. Right Angle Aluminum 7. U bolt and nuts

STEP 1: Start with a support pole in the center of the area where you wish to build your dome. The center pole may be set before the foundation is poured. The center pole may be any height; we usually use about 34” pole. We raise the center to make a more comfortable dwelling space. STEP 2: On top of the center pole fasten a joint that may rotate 360 degrees around the pole, and that moves 180 degrees up and down. A piece of wood in the top of the pole creates a nice platform for securing the joint. Gate hinges work well for this joint. STEP 3: Fasten an ¾” EMT pole to the hinge. The pole should be 2” longer than the inside radius of the dome.

STEP 4: Use a U bolt to attach a 2” piece of metal angle to the end of the pole extending downward. The angle acts as a stop to position the bricks on the inside radius of the dome. While the pole rests on top the brick. Notes:

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Stacking Arches With Frame Tools

1. Hose 2. Gloves 3. Trowels 4. Mixing Tools 5. Braces 6. AirCrete Bazooka 7. Braces 8. Arch Frame

Materials

1. Mortar Materials 2. Blocks 3. Water

STEP 1: Wet the ground at the base of the frame where the first block will lay, and wet the block. Water helps with the bonding of the mortar and the blocks. STEP 2: Spread Aircrete mortar where the first block will lay. STEP 3: Set the block in place on top of the mortar. STEP 4: Place a wedge under the block such that the center of the block is supported by the arch frame. STEP 5: If there are any spaces; fill them with AirCrete mortar. STEP 6: Repeat steps 1-5 on both sides of the frame until the blocks meet at the top of the frame and mortar them together in a similar fashion. Note: Be sure not to get excess mortar on the outside of the arch as it makes it much harder to rasp. Wipe excess with a wet sponge.

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Laying Blocks In The Dome Tools & Materials

1. Gloves 2. Water Bucket 3. Spray Bottle 4. Sponge 5. Trowel 6. Compass Arm 7. AirMortar 8. Aircrete Blocks 9. Weights attached to nail via string 10.8p Nails 11.Perforated Steel Plumbers Tape 12.Ladder 13.Scaffolding

Preparation: Use the compass arm to mark a circle on the slab where the inside of the dome wall will touch the floor. Choose a block. For dome building it’s best to select blocks with two good horizontal edges on the same side of the block - those will become the top and bottom inside edges. The condition of the sides is much less important as they are easily reshaped with a saw. Select a block with an appropriate length so that it’s leading vertical edge will not coincide with a seam below (1” minimum offset). Dry fit. Set the block in position with the compass arm in the top center of the block so that the edge of the block is seated snugly into the guide. Adjust the bottom inside edge so that it is flush with the top inside edge of the block below. Aircrete blocks made in the typical slab form may vary in thickness which means that the outside edges may not be flush. Use a pruning saw to match the vertical plane of the new block with the vertical plane of the previous block, giving highest priority to the top half of the inside edge. Cutting the previous set block may disrupt the setting process and move it out of position, therefore it is preferable to cut only the block you are currently dry fitting. If the leading edge of the block is jagged, use a saw to clean it up so that you won’t need to cut there after you’ve set the block. Mark the block. Use a nail or other sharp object to mark the top of the block. This makes it easier to keep track of the block’s orientation. Moisten the joints.

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Remove the block and moisten surfaces in preparation for mortar with sponge or bottle. Two surfaces on the block and two on the wall will need water. This step is important for ensuring good mortar bonds. Note that dripping beads of water may cause fresh mortar to slide off of vertical surfaces, which can be inconvenient or frustrating at times - remember that long term structural integrity is well worth the temporary inconvenience. Mortar the joints. Place a bead of mortar along the inside surfaces of the joints. Keep in mind not to put mortar in the outsides of the joints yet. Save yourself a lot of trouble and wait until after you have rasped the outside of the dome before putting mortar there. There is a strong natural urge to put mortar in the outside of the joints at this point- acknowledge the urge, but don’t give in to the temptation. Set block in place. Set the block in position and place the compass arm in the center of the block so that the top edge of the block is seated snugly into the guide. Adjust the bottom inside edge so that it is flush with the top inside edge of the block below. Keep the inside seams flush. Ensure that the compass arm is centered on the block. Insert nails. This step only applies to blocks set at 45 degrees overhang and beyond, toward the top of the dome. Insert two 8p nails into the wall at the bottom of the block to prevent the bottom edge of the block from falling. Insert wedges. Ask your assistant to place two aircrete wedges into the gap at the bottom of the block. The wedges should be set into the gap without any pressure, lest when you remove the compass arm that pressure will be released and result in the block popping out of the proper angle. The wedges should be about one inch in width. Using wider wedges may reduce the amount of mortar that can be placed into the joint, while thinner wedges will be too fragile. The use of more than two wedges is not advisable as this would also reduce the amount of mortar applied to the gap. It is not an issue if the wedges protrude beyond the surface of the wall since they will be easily cut or knocked out during the rasping process. Prop the block. Blocks set below the dome’s equator should be propped up with sticks on the outside by your assistant. It is good for the tip of the stick to dig into the block a little so that the stick is locked into place and so that there is a little pressure against the wedges locking them into place. One prop stick in the high center of each block is generally sufficient. Blocks set above the dome’s equator should be propped with gallon size jugs of water tied to a string tied to a 8p nail stabbed deep into the center of the top face of the block. Let your assistant handle the jugs, allowing them to hang below the equator. If the jugs do not hang freely below the equator then considerable effectiveness will be lost as they rest on the wall. Blocks at lower altitudes may require only a quart of water, while the polar regions may require three gallons or more per block.

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Test the prop. Remove the compass arm while carefully observing the block. The block should not move in any perceptible way because there should no longer be any pressure on the compass arm. If the block appears to move even 1mm when the compass arm is removed then more or less water is needed until the block is firmly locked against the wedges. It is easy to think that 1mm is not a big deal, but often blocks that move 1mm when the compass is removed will continue to fall gradually and may finish inches from their original location, with hard mortar. There is a rather large window of “just right” where there is enough pressure against the wedges to lock the block in place, without being too much pressure. Take the time needed to find that window - it is a sound investment. Set the lock. Lock the block to the wall with a 3” long piece of perforated steel plumbers tape. Insert the tape partly into the new block and partly into the previous block, at the top. Allow some of the tape to protrude so that it can be easily retrieved and reused.

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AirCrete Mortar for Stacking Blocks Making AirCrete Mortar Tools

1. Foam Injection Mixer or other mixer. 2. Mixing Bucket 3. Trowel 4. Air Compressor 5. Pre-mixed Milk 6. Gloves, Mask, Eye Protection

Recipe AirCrete Mortar (5 gal) 3 quarts Water 6 ounces Bonding Agent 8 quarts Cement powder Inject foam until mixture has expanded to 5 gallons STEP 1: Prime the Little Dragon. Prime the pump by running it before you attach the air hose (or turn off the valve) until liquid comes out of the foam wand. If there is no liquid in the pump before the air hose is attached, the air pressure will keep the foam agent from entering the system. STEP 2: Attach (or turn on the valve) the air hose and adjust the air pressure regulator on the Little Dragon so that the foam weighs 90-100 grams per liter. Change the weight by adjusting the air pressure. More air for lighter foam, and less air for heavier foam. STEP 3: Connect the foam wand to the injection mixer. STEP 4: In a clean 5 gallon bucket, pour 3 quarts water and 6 ounces Bonding Agent. (Buckets with cement hardened on the side can create lumps in the mortar). STEP 5: Run the mixer while gradually adding 8 quarts of pure Portland cement powder. DO NOT breathe the cement dust. Check with a trowel for lumps in the bucket. Make sure the cement is consistently mixed. STEP 6: Turn on the Little Dragon and fill the 5 gallon bucket. Mix while adding foam. Continue mixing until all the foam is mixed in. Keep the blade at the bottom of the bucket until you turn off the Little Dragon.

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Making a Rasp Tools

1. Hammer 2. Saw 3. File 4. Tin Snips

Materials

1. Rectangular trowel 2. Diamond Lathe

STEP 1: Cut a piece of diamond lathe so that it is one and a half inches longer and wider than your trowel. STEP 10: Bend the diamond lath around the edges of trowel. Note: You can double up on the diamond lath for deeper rasping. Mixing Fabric Glue Mixing Tools

1. Hand Mixer 2. Mixing Bucket 3. Trowel 4. Latex Bonding agent and water 5. Gloves, Mask, Eye Protection

Recipe Fabric Glue

1 quart Bonding Agent 2 quarts Water (to make quart with bonding agent) 6 quarts Pure Portland Cement

STEP 1: Add bonding agent and water into mixing bucket. STEP 2: While spinning the mixer, add the cement into the bucket. The glue should be pretty runny when it is done.

Note: If the Fabric Glue gets stiff within a few minutes of mixing (a cement abnormality known as a “false set”), mix it again and use as normal.

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Applying Fabric reinforcement Tools

1. Gloves 2. Rasp 3. Water 4. AirCrete Mixing Tools 5. Fabric Cutting Tools 6. Dip Bucket 7. Nails 8. Applicator (trowel, flexible board) 9. Sponge 10.Brush

Materials

1. Fabric Glue 2. Fabric (Polyester Reinforcing Fabric such as APOC 483)

STEP 1: Smooth surface that is going to be worked on. Rasps work well for smoothing AirCrete. The smoother the surface pre fabric, the smoother the end product. STEP 2: Wet the surface to be covered with fabric. Water helps with bonding. STEP 3: With fabric glue coat the work area. The larger the tool used for application, the faster this step goes. Move from the bottom of the work area to the top. Make sure all cracks and voids are filled. Faster is better in this case. STEP 4: Apply a wet piece of fabric that is cut to the shape of the workspace and smooth it to the wall with your hands until some of the glue soaks through the fabric. If the fabric seems to be slipping or falling, staple or nail it to the wall along the top edge. When applying more than one piece of fabric, overlap the edges at least four inches. Smooth the fabric until all wrinkles and ridges lay flat to enable a smoother final finish. Notes:

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Appendix Tools List 

NAME CATEGORY QTY

AIR COMPRESSOR 2.5 CFM POWER TOOLS 2 CIRCULAR SAW 7.25" POWER TOOLS 1 CORDLESS IMPACT DRIVERS POWER TOOLS 2 CORDLESS DRILLS POWER TOOLS 2 1/2" VAR. SPEED DRILL 600-1000 RPM MAX POWER TOOLS 2 ROUTER WITH 1/2" COLLET POWER TOOLS 1 GRINDER POWER TOOLS 1 SAWZALL POWER TOOLS 1 CHOPSAW POWER TOOLS 1 JIGSAW POWER TOOLS 1 TABLE SAW POWER TOOLS 1 AIR COMPRESSOR HOSES POWER TOOLS 2 EXTENSION CORDS 10GA POWER TOOLS 5 POWER STRIPS POWER TOOLS 3 DRILL BIT SET POWER TOOLS 1 DRIVER BIT SET POWER TOOLS 1 30 GAL CLEAN TRASH CAN WITH LID MIXING 2 55 GAL DRUM MIXING 2 5 GAL BUCKETS MIXING 10 GARDEN HOSE WITH SPRAY NOZZLE MIXING 2 GARDENHOSE SPLITTER MIXING 2 SHOVEL MIXING 1 COARSE TOOTH PRUNING SAW 6"-18" LONG AIRCRETE 4 POINTED TROWELS AIRCRETE 4 PLASTIC PUTTY KNIVES 4"-6" AIRCRETE 9 LARGE RECTANGULAR TROWELS AIRCRETE 6 1 GALLON BUCKETS AIRCRETE 3 CORD 1/8" X 500' AIRCRETE 1 4" DOUBLE HEADED NAILS AIRCRETE 100 TARP OR PLASTIC SHEET 20 MIL 5'X9' AIRCRETE 8

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METAL FILE HAND TOOLS 1 TAPE MEASURES METRIC/IMPERIAL HAND TOOLS 4 VISE GRIP HAND TOOLS 1 CRESCENT WRENCH HAND TOOLS 1 OILING/PAINT BRUSHES 4" HAND TOOLS 2 PAINT ROLLER HAND TOOLS 2 TIN SNIPS/SHEET METAL CUTTER HAND TOOLS 2 CARPENTER PENCILS HAND TOOLS 12 PERMANENT MARKERS HAND TOOLS 12 RAZOR KNIVES HAND TOOLS 4 SCISSORS HAND TOOLS 4 CHALK LINE HAND TOOLS 1 HACKSAW HAND TOOLS 1 BEVEL SQUARE HAND TOOLS 1 SQUARE HAND TOOLS 2 SMALL PRYBAR HAND TOOLS 1 LEVEL (VARIOUS SIZES) HAND TOOLS 1 SCREW DRIVER PHILIPS HAND TOOLS 1 QUICK CLAMPS HAND TOOLS 6 CAULKING GUN HAND TOOLS 1 HAMMER HAND TOOLS 2 LADDERS 6' WORKSPACE 2 LADDERS 10' WORKSPACE 2 6' SCAFFOLDING WORKSPACE 2 WHEEL BARROW WORKSPACE 1 8000 WATT GEN./ SUFFICIENT POWER AMENITIES 1 CLEAN WATER SPIGOTS AMENITIES 2 RIGID FLAT SPACE 93"X51" AMENITIES 4 WORK TABLES 4'X8' X 30-36"HEIGHT AMENITIES 2 GLOVES SAFETY WEAR 200 SAFETY GLASSES SAFETY WEAR 8 DUST MASKS SAFETY WEAR 60 EAR PLUGS SAFETY WEAR 2 MASON DRILL BITS POWER TOOLS 1 NAIL GUN TRIM PINNER POWER TOOLS 1 PLUG CUTTER POWER TOOLS 1 MIXING BLADES POWER TOOLS 2 TUBING BENDER POWER TOOLS 1 ROUTER BITS POWER TOOLS 3

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LITTLE DRAGON POWER TOOLS 2 FOAM INJECTION MIXER (120V) POWER TOOLS 2 DIGITAL FOOD SCALE GRAM/LBS AIRCRETE 1 1QT/1LTR MEASURING CUPS AIRCRETE 3 SCRIBE HAND TOOLS 2 PUNCH/ CONCRETE NAIL HAND TOOLS 2 ELLIPSE STRING HAND TOOLS 2 DRAGON PARTS MISC. 1 BATTERIES FOR SCALE MISC. 4 GORILLA TAPE MISC. 1 PAINTERS TAPE MISC. 1 DUCT TAPE MISC. 1 BATTERY CHARGER MISC. 1 **** END OF LIST****

Materials List 

NAME CATEGORY QTY STRAIGHT LUMBER 2X4 8' (1.5" X 3.5" X 8') LUMBER 25 STRAIGHT LUMBER ACTUAL DIMENSIONS 1"X 6" X 8' LUMBER 3 PLYWOOD SHEETS 1/4"X 4' X 8' LUMBER 1 PLYWOOD SHEETS 2.7mm X 4' X 8' LUMBER 3 PLYWOOD SHEETS 5mm X 4' X 8' LUMBER 3 EMT (ELECTRICAL METAL TUBING) 10' X 3/4" METAL 20 FLAT STEEL 16 GAUGE x 6" x 48" METAL 1 STEEL TUBING ROUND THIN WALL 4.5' X 1.5" OR 2" METAL 1 METAL DIAMOND LATHE WIRE MESH 3' X 7' METAL 1 PURE PORTLAND CEMENT 94LB BAGS AIRCRETE 60 GALLON OF VEGGIE OIL AIRCRETE 4 GALLONS OF FOAM CONCENTRATE (7TH GEN DISH LIQ) AIRCRETE 5 GALLON PLASTIC BOTTLES WITH LIDS AIRCRETE 50 FINE SAND LBS AIRCRETE 200 LATEX BONDING AGENT GAL AIRCRETE 15 FLAT HEAD NAILS 2" FASTENERS 50

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PLEXIGLASS 1/4" X 4 'X 8' WINDOW 1 EPOXY 8OZ TUBES WINDOW 4 PIPE 2" X 10' PVC 1 PIPE 3/4" X 10' PVC 1 PIPE 1/2" X 10' PVC 1 WOOD PLANK FOR DOOR 8' LONG 50 SQ FT. DOOR 1 STEEL PLUMBERS TAPE 10' METAL 3 EMT 3/4" COUPLINGS METAL 12 REINFORCING FABRIC ROLL AIRCRETE 1 TOGGLE CLAMPS HARDWARE 16 COMPASS ARM MOUNT R HARDWARE 1 55 GAL BUCKET HANDLES HARDWARE 6 BOLTS 1.5" WITH WASHERS AND T NUTS DG FASTENERS 5 SS BOLTS .25" x 3" MACHINE BOLT FASTENERS 8 SS WASHER .25" + NEOPRENE SEAL FASTENERS 8 WASHER .25" x 1.25" FASTENERS 4 SS CAP NUTS .25" FASTENERS 4 SS NUTS .25" FASTENERS 12 SCREWS #6 .5" (SKYLIGHT FRAME) FASTENERS 30 SCREWS 1" (MASONITE TO CROSS BARS) FASTENERS 50 SCREWS 1" (DOOR) FASTENERS 100 SCREWS 1.5" FASTENERS 100 SCREWS 2.25" (CUTTING JIG) FASTENERS 100 SCREWS 3" (TUBING TO CROSSBARS) FASTENERS 50 DECK 6" SCREWS (INNER WINDOW TO OUTER) FASTENERS 10 BRAD NAILS (DOOR JAM) FASTENERS CAP 2" PVC 1 COUPLER 2" PVC 1 REDUCER 2" TO 1" PVC 1 T 3/4" PVC 1 COUPLER SLIP TO FPT 3/4" PVC 1 PLUG FLAT TOP MPT 3/4" PVC 1 TEST PLUG 2" PVC 1 ****END OF LIST****

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Drawing an Ellipse with String Tools

1. String 2. Tape Measure 3. Screws 4. Pencil or Pen

STEP 1: Using a straightedge draw the major axis of your ellipse. The major axis is the line that passes through the center of the long side of the ellipse.

STEP 2: Draw a perpendicular line in the center of the major axis as the minor axis of your ellipse. The minor axis is the line that passes through the short side of the ellipse. The intersection of the two lines is the center of the ellipse.

STEP 3: Use half the length of the major axis to locate focal points 1 and 2. The distance

between the center and point B is equal to the distance between point C and point 2.

STEP 4: Set a screw at points 1, 2, and D and tie a string tightly around the three points. Be

sure to use a string that does not stretch too much.

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STEP 5: Remove the screw from point C maintain the length of the string, and use the string as a guide to draw ellipse. Maintain a constant tension on the string. The line should pass through points A, B, C, and D.

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Making Stucco and Plaster  There are many recipes and techniques for stucco (exterior finish) and plaster (interior finish). The finer the sand, the thinner the layer you can apply. Here is one example.

● Sand (6 quarts) ● Cement (3 quarts) ● Water (¼ to ½ gallon) ● Bonding Agent (2 to 4 ounces)

This is the recipe we used for the Hawi dome. We applied one coat over the fabric and brushed the finish.

● Sand (10 quarts) ● Cement (4 quarts) ● Water (6 cups) ● Bonding Agent (2 cups)

Stucco needs to be sticky. Should be able to spread easily for a smooth finish. Stucco is used for texture and additional waterproofing. It’s best to let stucco fully cure for one month before coating with latex paint. This is because latex paint does not breathe and can prevent the cement from curing normally if applied prematurely.    Sacred Geometry  For anything to exist, it cannot be totally random, it must have some kind of pattern, some seed of order in it’s heart. Sacred Geometry is the study of the primary patterns of space and time to reveal the secrets of the material and spiritual worlds. It is in essence to comprehend the true nature of reality. These patterns can be used in design to create more aesthetic, resonant and healthy structures. Some of the patterns we see:

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● Platonic solids - popularized by Plato, there are only five 3 dimensional shapes that have equal shaped faces at equal angles made of equal length lines. If these shapes were inscribed in a sphere all their vertices (points where the lines meet) would touch the sphere. Also a sphere could be inscribed inside the shape and the center of each face would touch the sphere. Pictured on the right in this order: Tetrahedron (3 sided pyramid made of 4 equilateral triangles, 4 vertices), Hexahedron (cube made of 6 not squares, 8 vertices), Octahedron (double 4 sided pyramid made of 1 square, 8 equilateral triangles, 6 vertices), Dodecahedron (made of 12 pentagons, not hexagons, 20 vertices) and Icosahedron (made of 20 equilateral triangles, 12 vertices).

● Phi - the golden mean, golden ratio, golden or divine proportion. ○ A Phi ratio is 1.618, or 0.618. ○ Unique characteristics: 1/1.618 = 0.618, 1.618 x 0.618 = 1.000

■ 1 - 0.618 = 0.382, 0.618 x 0.618 = 0.382 ■ 1.618 x 1.618 = 2.618, 1.618 + 1 = 2.618

○ Approximate ratios: 3/5th’s=0.6, 5/8th’s=0.625, 2/3rd’s, 4/6th’s and 6/9th’s=0.666 (lots of 3’s, 5’s, 6’s and 9’s) 5 = Phi-ve

○ World average of human height (men and women) 1.618 meters ○ Golden Spiral - grows by constant golden ratio expansion

(logarithmic growth) ○ Phi in nature everywhere and in simple relationships of triangles,

squares and circles but found in supreme abundance in pentagons & pentagrams (5 pointed star).

● Fibonacci Sequence - 1, 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 13, 21, 34, 55, 89, 144, 233, 377, 610, 987, 1597, 2584, 4181, 6765, 10946, 17711...

○ Starts with number 1, and the following numbers are the sum of the previous 2. I.e 1, 0+1=1, 1+1=2, 1+2=3, 2+3=5, 3+5=8, 5+8=13

○ Fibonacci Spiral - made from quarter circles each with the radius of the fibonacci sequence. Not the same as the Golden Spiral or nautilus shells but each are approximations of each other

● Pi π = 3.14 - mathematical constant representing the ratio of a circle’s circumference to its diameter or in the case of a sphere also the surface area and volume.

○ Circle Circumference = 2πr (r = radius), or πd (d = diameter), Circle Area = πr2 ○ Sphere Surface Area = 4πr2 Sphere Volume = 4/3πr3

Digital Root, 3, 6, 9, 432 and Harmonics 

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● Digital Root - The digital root of a non-negative integer is the value obtained by adding each of the digits, The process continues until a single-digit number is reached, thus the single digit root. I.e. for the number 369, the digital root would be 9 because 3 + 6 + 9 = 18 and 1+8 = 9

● The Number 9 - is very significant in geometry as you’ll see in circles and polygons below. ○ All multiples of 9 have a digital root of 9. Add any number to 9 and the digital root of

the result will be the same as the digital root of the original number. I.e. 9 + 56 (d root 2) = 65 (d root 2). Any single digit number divided by 9 = that number in a repeating decimal i.e. 1/9 = .11111, etc. 9 divided by any single digit number has a digital root of 9 (except 3 & 7 which have a d root of 3 and 6 which has a d root of 6).

● Circle slices - if you start with a circle and divide it in half, again,and again it looks like this ○ 360°, 180°, 90°, 45°, 22.5°, 11.25°, 5.625°, 2.8125°, 1.40625°, .703125°, etc. and

they all have a digital root of 9! ● Regular polygons - the sum of the interior angles also all have a digital root of 9:

○ triangle 60° x 3 = 180, square (quadrilateral) 90° x 4 = 360, pentagon 108° x 5 = 540, hexagon 120° x 6 = 720, Heptagon (Septagon) 128.57° x 7 = 900, octagon 135° x 8 = 1080, enneagon (or nonagon) 140° x 9 = 1260, decagon 144° x 10 = 1440, etc. etc. See any patterns emerging?

○ Polygon exterior angles = 360/n. Exterior angles = 180 - 360/n (n = number of sides) ● Pythagorean Formula - can be used to calculate the

length of a missing side whenever you have a 90° angle. ○ 3 4 5 rule - if you measure 3 ft on one leg (board)

and 4 ft on the other leg and connect them by a 5 ft hypotenuse you will have a perfect 90° angle which is useful in building large forms, etc. (any multiple or unit of measure will work).

● Harmonics - a relationship of numbers, mainly used in music, in which one is a perfect fraction or multiple of the other.

○ For example 3, 6 and 9 are ¼ harmonics of 12. 3 and 6 are lower harmonics of 9 because they represent ⅓ and ⅔ (phi). 18, 36 and 72 are upper harmonics of 9 because they are multiples.

● Wavelength - is the distance a note (or frequency) travels for one cycle or vibration based on the speed of travel through a medium. In this case, sound travels at 1125 ft/sec through air at 68°. More to follow...

● 432 hz - the original tuning for middle A. As opposed to the new tuning mandate of 440 hz ○ Hz = hertz, cycles or vibrations per second ○ 1.432 x .432 = .618 (phi) ○ 432 x 2 = 864. The diameter of the sun = 864,000 miles ○ 432/2 = 216. The diameter of the moon = 2160 miles ○ 432 x 432 = 186,624. The speed of light is 1.86624 x 10^5 miles/sec

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○ 4,320 = number of days/year on Jupiter ○ 432 x 60 (main unit of time measure) = 25,920 = # of years in a platonic year (or

great year). It’s the total precession of the earth’s axis through the 12 zodiac signs (or ages) each with 2,160 years. We are at the end of the age of Pisces and transitioning into the age of Aquarius. (most all these numbers have a d root of 9!) Ages: ‘Prophetic ages’. Ancient Hebrew sages sought the stars for a sign. Visible from earth is the conjunction occurring between Jupiter & Saturn; every 144th is a new Age. The 144th conjunction of Jupiter and Saturn occurred 12/20/1980. From that date we are in Aquarius. As symbolized by the Aquarian pouring out (Information) into the physical world from his cornucopia (not watertight vessel). Are we not in the age of information?

○ 432 hz = Crown Chakra frequency - energy center at the top of the body. ○ 288 hz = Third eye Chakra frequency - 288 is a Phi ratio of 432 (⅔ x 432) and

located at the pineal gland. ○ The Wavelength for 432 = 31.25” or 2.604 ft (1125/432). ○ Some nice harmonics of 432: 1/55th 7.85 hz (schumann resonance) 1/12th: 36 hz,

1/8th: 54 hz, 1/6th: 72 hz, 1 quarter: 108 hz, 1/3rd: 144 hz, 1 half: 216 hz, etc. (notice all those except 7.85 have a digital root of 9).

○ Alternate middle A tuning - 432 hz was the original music tuning until it was changed to 440 hz some say to intentionally disconnect us from nature.

○ 432 Pythagorean Tuning - (factor 9 tuning) vs. equal temperament tuning. All notes have a digital root of 9 and the octaves and note spacing increase in exponents of 9.

Some influential people in the field (check out their work and the mystical aspects) ● Pythagoras - 570 bc. first philosopher (lover of wisdom) created triangle theorem, first

mention of spherical earth “harmony of the spheres,” strongly influenced Plato & Newton. ● Plato - born in 432 bc. greek, most pivotal philosopher in history. Student of Socrates and

teacher of Aristotle. Platonism - realizing there is more to life than the material world. ● Leonardo Da Vinci - 1452. artist, inventor, scientist, definitely into sacred geometry ● Isaac Newton - 1642. mathematician, astronomer, theologian, author and physicist, likely

the most influential scientist of all time, theory of gravity, etc. ● Nicola Tesla - 1856. invented most of the things that are the foundation of our technology

today. Many of his inventions have been concealed from the public. ● Albert Einstein - 1879 theory of relativity, etc, etc, you’ve heard of these guys ● Buckminster Fuller - 1895 known for creating the geodesic domes and called the most

crazy, brilliant, original and influential sacred geometer of recent history. ● Drunvalo Melchizedek - wrote the flower of life books which are a wealth of info. ● Nassim Haramein - created the Holo-Fracto-Graphic theory of unified physics and solved

the bridge between cosmological and quantum physics. Check out Resonance.is online.

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Site Selection  Get to know the land - We recommend you spend time on the land. Observe the energy, seasons, wildlife, plants, weather patterns, wet zones, and wind directions, etc. Create a master plan - short term, long term, home design, land utilization. Permaculture is a great way to efficiently work with nature. Make sure you know your property lines and required building setbacks. Don’t build in flood plains - get data on 100 year floods and build on higher ground. Minimize ecological impact - limit heavy equipment on site, think about utility paths, access, and wildlife homes, etc. Try not to disrupt tree roots 1’ away from the trunk for ever 1” it is thick. I.e. 12” thick tree, don’t cut roots closer than 12’ from the tree. Ideally the home blends into the landscape. Balance privacy vs. view - maybe there is a way to see the sunset but not the neighbors? Introduce yourself to the neighbors - maybe even before you purchase the land. What resources could you share? Passive Solar - you could build under deciduous trees so you have sun in the winter and shade in the summer. You can build overhangs so there is shade when the sun is high in the sky and sun coming in to heat the floor in the winter when the sun is low in the sky. Shelter from cold wind - with trees or hillsides.

Dome Design Options  Think of rooms you’ve felt good in. Find inspiring images of other homes you love. Consider light, materials, texture, color, etc. Design around activities, time of day, traffic flow, etc. Create public and private spaces. Utilize phi ratios, hexagons, pentagons, harmonic patterns, standing wave tones you like, etc. Aircrete offers a lot of freedom in the design even beyond domes. We like to build domes for their strength and esthetic. Arches make great entrances and connections to other domes and provide the option to make a flat wall under them for optimizing space and using standard furniture. Domes can also be connected by simply overlapping. (make sure they overlap enough to make a door tall enough). Below is an inspiring example.

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Below are some sacred shapes to draw from for your design. The flower of life with the Kabbalah and metatrons cube (which contains all the platonic solids). Domes could be placed at any of the circles or nodes and connected with arches.

Feng Shui Principles

● Feng Shui - meaning air and water - is the practice of understanding invisible and intangible forces involved in health and healing based on the anatomy of the home. From china 3000-7000 years ago

● Wind can not be seen and water can not be grasped ● Everything has a vibration or an essence. ● Fractal concept - The internal reflects the external and

vis versa. It’s all connected. You are impacted by your electrons, atoms, molecules, cells, tissues, organs, body systems, bacteria, thoughts, beliefs, clothing, bedding, your bedroom and it’s furnishings, your home and it’s layout, your possessions, your clutter, your garden, your family and friends, your community, your city/state/country, planet, solar system, stars, etc, etc.

● Proper placement of colors, elements and intention in the home, feng shui brings the unconscious in our environments back into consciousness

● Flow of chi - the invisible essential life force present in all things ○ Where it flows freely and accumulates there is health and abundance ○ Where it stagnates and is blocked there is sickness and decay

The ideal characteristics of your home - open, spacious, well lit, uplifting colors, welcoming, reflecting who you are, non toxic materials, creative and inspiring.

● Bagua - Principal tool of feng shui - ½ rule, enhancement vs. missing spot

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Know the History - previous occupants, etc. Spaces and things hold energy patterns. Important placements

● Bed - where you spend one third of your life! Recharge and regenerate, dreams, ○ Bed faces entrance, feeling of security, be held by solid headboard, diverse lighting,

flowers/plants, no family photos watching over you, ○ Head - to any direction but north

● Desk - meaningful contributions to family and society, face door, safety and protection. ● Stove - creation of nourishment, feeling inspired, ad love, use reflective surfaces to avoid adding

element of fear or surprise to food. fire/water clash Colors - Energies, complementary, bagua strengthening colors, feeling of color Adjustment items - all about the feeling

● Items to be aware of: pillars, posts and columns, corners, beams, colors, lighting, voids, ceilings (expansive/contracting), aesthetics, room shapes, furniture placement, clutter!

● warm and welcoming. Use Lighting (mood setter), crystals, candles, ● mirrors: deflect negative chi, draw positive, show things the way they are, amplify what’s there,

expand small spaces, reflect light from windows Clearing clutter - absolutely important for a healthy space/life. The mind is more clear if the space is more clear.

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The Bahua

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These patterns can be overlayed on top of the home/dome design to help establish energy patterns in the home and clear unhealthy areas in the home which connect to life. Concrete Science and History  Portland Cement

● Officially Invented in 1824 in Britain by Joseph Aspdin - 200 years ago ● Named portland cement because it looked like the stone quarried on the Isle of Portland ● a fine powder ● Made of ground limestone, clay minerals and other materials including shale, sand, fly ash,

aluminium, and/or iron and magnesium oxides, and usually 2 to 3 percent gypsum. ○ Limestone - calcium carbonate (CaCO3) in the form of the mineral calcite. Made of

shell, coral, algae (group of sea creatures) ○ Clay - super fine minerals that form flat hexagonal sheets. Usually traces of quartz.

Forming SiO4 tetrahedra and/or AlO4 octahedra. ○ Shale - clay minerals and quartz ○ Sand - mainly silica (silicon dioxide, or SiO2), usually in the form of quartz ○ Quartz - silicon and oxygen atoms in crystalline tetrahedra structure SiO2. second

most abundant mineral in Earth's continental crust. ○ Fly Ash - byproduct of coal combustion. silicon dioxide (SiO2), aluminium oxide

(Al2O3) and calcium oxide (CaO), ○ Gypsum - soft sulfate mineral composed of calcium sulfate dihydrate CaSO4·2H2O.

Added to help control setting and prevents flash setting and quick setting. ● Chemical Makeup - mainly - Calcium and Silica (bones and glass)

○ Calcium oxide, CaOC 61–67% ○ Silicon dioxide, SiO2 19–23% ○ Aluminium oxide, Al2O3 2.5–6% ○ Iron Oxide - Fe2O3 0–6% ○ Gypsum - Sulfur (VI) oxide, SO3 1.5–4.5%

● Produced by heating the mixture in a rotary kiln to temperatures as high as 1400-1600 C (2500-2900 F). The heating process causes the materials to break down and recombine into new compounds that can react with water in a crystallization process called hydration. After the kiln it’s ground again and the gypsum is added after.

● After about 36 hours, in the presence of water, most of the hydration process is complete, ● It continues to cure as long as water and unhydrated compounds are present. ● Strength tests are typically done after 28 days ● Cement sets - when mixed with water by way of a complex series of chemical reactions

still only partly understood. The different constituents slowly crystallise, and the interlocking of their crystals gives cement its strength. Carbon dioxide is slowly absorbed to convert the portlandite (Ca(OH)2) into insoluble calcium carbonate. Can set underwater

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● Water quantity determines strength and pourability - but too much or not enough can weaken it

● Cement vs concrete - Cement isn’t used alone because of cost ● Concrete is usually 60 to 80% aggregate (sand and gravel) ● Concrete Ratio - thick = 1 part cement, 2 sand, 3 gravel. thin would be with more cement &

water ● Mortar - sand and cement ● Other aggregates - vermiculite or perlite for lightweight and insulating ● Admixtures - additives for performance

○ Fly ash - a mineral additive to make it pour easily without adding extra water ○ Superplasticizers - improve workability and flow while increasing strength because

less water is required. ○ Retarding and accelerating admixtures are used to alter curing time as

necessitated by climatic conditions. ● Makes up the foundation of civilization - responsible for 5% of global carbon footprint, and

possibly 15% in the US. ● Concrete and mortar crack during curing and especially from freeze/thaw cycles. Rebar

helps prevent concrete from falling apart when it cracks, but corrodes over time creating a timebomb.

● Usually measured in cubic yards - 27 cubic feet in one cubic yard (3x3x3) ● 1 cubic yard (About 3300 lbs) can be mixed by hand, equipment is required for larger

quantities Aircrete

● Aircrete recipe - 1 - 94 lb bag cement, 6 gal water, 3.8 gal diluted soap (12 oz concentrated soap), 34 gal air (75%)

● ¼ the weight of standard concrete about half the price or less (184 lb vs 735 lb for 45 gal) ● Can be manipulated with wood working tools ● Won’t rot, warp, or burn, safe from bugs, termites, water, freezing, etc

8 Irresistible Reasons to build an Air-crete Dome Home ● Low cost, elegance, fire proof, water proof, pest proof, safety, ecology and ease.

Roman concrete - volcanic ash, quick lime (calcium oxide), volcanic rock and sea water. Minerals (filipsite, altobromorit) deposits form over time and make it stronger. Especially effective where sea water is touching the structure. Hydrated lime - calcium hydroxide (hydrated quicklime, calcium oxide). Usually about 5% clay vs portland which can be up to 30% clay. Often used in plasters. Pros: flexibility, autogenous healing, permeability, workability, better for environment. Cons: slow set time, low strength, more expensive. Dolomitic hydrated lime in addition to the calcium oxide (48%), has magnesium oxide (34%)

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Mortar Types

● Type M – 3200 PSI – 100% Portland - used for anything exposed to major elements ● Type S – 2200 PSI – 67% Portland – 33% lime - used for bricks and wall stones ● Type N – 1400 PSI – 50% Portland – 50% lime - used for bricks and wall stones ● Type O – 1000 PSI – 33% Portland – 67% lime - rarely used. For glass block ● Type K – 750 PSI – 100% lime - practice mortar

Building Codes & Permits  These structures have been designed to empower people to inexpensively build their own structures. Aircrete is a newer material and not a lot has been done to discover how they fit into the existing systems of codes and permits. Professional plans would need to be first created then an engineer will need to sign off on it. I recommend you first check with your local planning and zoning commission to see what is possible to do on your land. You don’t have to specify what your plans are initially. Generally in the US, building permits are not required for the following when related to single-family homes that do not encroach over a subsurface drain system, public utility easement, or into required setbacks from property lines.

● Non-habitable one-story detached accessory structures (storage structures, playhouses, etc.) provided the floor area does not exceed 200 square feet and a wall height of 10 feet measured from the finished floor level to the top of the top plate.

https://www.beavertonoregon.gov/918/Permits-Not-Required-for-Home-Constructi To make sure your dome is under 200 sq ft, it will need to be just less than 16 feet for the interior diameter at the floor. It is recommended that you get a permit for any electrical and plumbing work, or at least do it to code. Good luck!

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Thank you so much for joining us!

Aloha,

The DomeGaia Crew

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