adrenaline rush 10132006 - stevens aeromodel · 2010-03-01 · may be actionable under the united...

Adrenaline Rush - Mini Hotliner 1.2 3/1/2010

© 2005 Stevens AeroModel. All Rights Reserved.

Adrenaline Rush Mini Hotliner / Park Rocket / Club Pylon Racer.

V1.2

Span 23.40” / Length 18.00” / Area 69Sq.” / Typical Flying Weight 3.5-4.0oz

Made in the USA! Of U.S. and Imported Parts



WARRANTY

Stevens AeroModel guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Stevens AeroModel’s liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Stevens AeroModel reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

LIABILITY RELEASE In that Stevens AeroModel has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user–assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability. If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase. THIS PRODUCT IS NOT INTENDED FOR CHILDREN 12 YEARS OF AGE OR YOUNGER WARNING: This product may contain chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and or birth defects or other reproductive harm.

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General Information: Thank you for purchasing this short kit by Stevens AeroModel. The Adrenaline Rush was designed to achieve optimum performance with an affordable GWS EDP-50XC or 12mm Brushless inrunner systems. This Mini Hotliner / Racer features a wide flight envelope with forgiving stall characteristics. The model will slow to a crawl yet climb out to a dot in seconds and reaches blistering speeds in a shallow dive.

• Ideal club racing platform. • Cuts through high winds that sends all other pilots packing. • Durable solid balsa and carbon construction. • Simple one evening construction from building board to first flight. • Outstanding performance from simple brushed 180 motors.

Short Kit Contents:

• Illustrated Instruction Manual • Laser Cut Wing, Blocks, and Tail Feathers. • 1 – 0.194” x 17” Carbon Fiber Fuselage. • 1 - 1/32” x 18” Pushrod Stock. • 1 - 1/32” x 12” ID Nylon Pushrod Guide tube. • 3 - Du-Bro Micro Control Horns • 3 - Du-Bro EZ-Links

Radio Setup:

• 2 - 6g Sub Micro Servos (JR-SM8 or HS-50) • 1 - Micro receiver (Berg Micro Stamp MS4 or MS4L) • 1 - 12mm Heatsink (GW/EHS-50 – functions as motor mount)

Suggested Brushed Power System: (38 mph)

• 1 - 12mm “IPS” Brushed Motor (GWS EDP-50XC) • 1 - 5A Brushed ESC (Castle Pixie 7P) • 1 - 300-450mAh battery. (E-TEC 300mAh 7.4v) • 1 - 3x2 GWS Direct Drive Propeller

Suggested Brushless Power System: (65-80+ mph)

• 1 - 12mm Brushless Motor (Medusa MR-012-030-4000) • 1 - 9A Brushed ESC (Castle Thunderbird 9) • 1 - 300-450mAh battery. (E-TEC 450mAh 11.1v) • 1 - 3x2 or 3x3 GWS Direct Drive Propeller

Please inspect your short kit for missing or damaged items. To complete this model you will require basic woodworking tools (a sanding block and sand paper), thin CA glue, clear tape, a water based urethane wood sealant or dope.



Cut Templates: (provided for the scratch builder) Templates reduced to 25% of original size. Print out this page then scale template below 400% with a photo copier. Transfer cut lines to balsa wood.

Cut one wing from 316" Medium Balsa

Cut tail feathers from 3/32" Medium Balsa (C-Grain)

Inches



Instructions for Assembly: Step1 Remove wing core from balsa sheet... I have etched some sanding guides on the surface, pre cut the servo pockets, pre cut the ailerons, and scored the center for dihedral. Please flip the wing over (etch marks down) and back the ailerons with masking tape so they don't come loose while sanding. Flip the wing back over and, using a sanding block, taper the wing evenly from the 25% etch line to the trailing edge. I like to leave a 1/32"-1/16" trailing edge. Thinner will be more fragile.

Step 2 Sand the leading edge of the wing core round sloping from the 25% mark to the leading edge. I like to leave my tips a bit thick to keep the weeds and brush from damaging them when I plop in for a landing. I also like to slightly round the leading edge from the underside of the wing.



Step 3 Blow all the dust out of the deep etch mark in the wing center (if you are scratch building - lightly score the wing center - don't cut all the way through!). Now block up a tip and gently flatten the wing out until the center etch mark pinches together. Wick thin CA glue into joint - hit with zip kicker (ca accelerator) to set dihedral. Note that the angle is exaggerated here - when the block is removed you should have a total of about .1/8" rise at each tip.

Step 4 Remove masking tape backing ailerons and cut free from wing blank. Sand a 45 degree bevel in underside of aileron leading edge to prep for a top mounted tape hinge.



Step 5 Sand tail feathers using similar techniques to the wing. I round my leading edges, and taper to a squared off trailing edge. Cut free the elevator and taper for hinging. Set up your vertical stab perpendicular to your horizontal stab and glue.

Step 6 You'll want to glue your motor to the carbon fuselage and secure with Kevlar thread. I'd suggest this as a better option - lightly sand the carbon fuselage and epoxy an IPS-8A heat sink to the stick. Make certain you don't introduce any odd angles - the heat sink should run parallel with the stick. While this is drying lets reach for the trusty Min-Wax water based urethane spray and give your wings a light dusting to seal them. Don't get too heavy handed with the spray - just do 1-2 light coats and lightly sand in between. Here's a tip! I shoot the tips of the wings pretty heavy - enough to temporarily soften the balsa. With the balsa soft you can gently rub the wing tips into an upward curl and set by air drying (or if you are in a hurry use a heat gun). The curl adds a bit of wash at the tips which will assist with your low speed manners.



Step 7 Lets set the fuselage to the tail feathers and wing. From the #1 prototype it was all too evident that we could benefit from some right thrust for long vertical up-lines... #2 had the motor offset 90 degrees CCW (from pilots perspective) to the left of the stick... moving the thrust line left has the same effect as right thrust. This proved to be too much offset with my heatsink mount and the plane, with Feigao motor, was in need of a touch of down thrust. Well, I think we can get both. You'll want to mount your carbon fuselage to the tail feathers with the motor mount set at 45deg CCW (from pilots perspective). This will get us both the required right and introduce down thrust. First set the carbon fuselage to the tail feathers. Next measure back 3.25" from front of carbon fuselage stick - this is where you'll locate the wing leading edge (this position will vary with different gear setup... but has worked pretty well so far). Tack the wing in place with the tail feathers square to wing. Set with zip kicker. Invert and run CA along joint between wing and fuselage - again set with kicker. It's starting to look like a plane!

Step 8 Use the pre-cut 3/16” balsa blocks to strengthen the fuselage to wing joint. This also ends up forming rails to support our battery. Don't cover your servo pockets with the blocks.. and notice that I cut one of the balsa blocks short at the trailing edge to accommodate placement of the receiver.



Step 9 Now we begin installing the electronics. Install servos as illustrated. Servos are retained with a drop of thin CA wicked under the servo tabs. This will keep them in place just fine and are easy to pop out for other projects later on (just go real light on the CA!).

Step 10 With the servos now installed lets turn our attention to hinging the control surfaces. You'll use scotch tape and hinge both the top and bottom surface. First hinge from the top I like to hold the aileron at 30 degrees and tape in place - this makes certain that you will not have any binding. Next, flex the aileron back and tape from the back side. With the ailerons hinged, turn your attention to the elevator and complete in the same manner. Inspect your work, if it binds or is too sloppy now is the time to fix it, tape is cheap. Slip shod work here will manifest poor flight performance.



Step 11 Trim the servo horns to look like the examples in this photo (assumes you are running two ailerons). Install the trimmed control horns as illustrated. Finally, keep those control surfaces from flopping around on us - tape them at both ends so they stay centered while you complete your linkage.

Step 12 Locate the DuBro micro control horns and mark the location on each surface where you will drill a pilot hole for installing these. I set my control horn pilot hole back about 3/16" from the side and leading edge of the surface to be hinged. Drill the hole through each surface (both ailerons and elevator). Hint! install your elevator control horn out far enough from your carbon fuselage boom to prevent interference between the horn and the boom. Next install your control horns as illustrated and secure with thin CA glue. I slightly angled my control horns to the aileron servo. Using a pair of flush cutters (yet another use for those 2 in 1 wire cutters) trim the excess mounting post off the bottom of each control horn.



Step 13 Install the elevator linkage. This simple method of installing linkage will not require EZ-Connectors. EZ-Connectors will just add weight and drag. With a little effort on this step, you will find that you won't need them. First, Take an 18" length of 1/32" music wire and, using small needle nose pliers, place a z-bend at one end. Cut your 1/32" ID pushrod guide to 10.5" and slip over wire. Next set the Z-Bend in to the elevator servo, on the inner most hole, as indicated in the photo. Center the guide tube between the servo and elevator control horn. Tape guide tube to the carbon fuselage boom. (I used masking tape here so you could see where to tape) lift aft end of push rod to be level with top hole of elevator control horn (we want to minimize your control throw mechanically) Verify that your taped control surfaces and servo horn are still perfectly centered then mark (I use a sharpie) where your control rod wire passes the control surface hole center. Place a 90 degree bend in wire centered at this mark. Clip the excess wire off leaving at least 3/16" beyond the 90 degree bend. Save the remainder of the wire for your ailerons. The photos tell it all! Take your time, measure twice, cut and bend once. If you do it right you can save weight and drag over using mini connectors. If you are short you'll need to start over. If you are long you can adjust by slightly z-bending your push-rod to take up slack.



Step 14 Cut the remaining music wire in two and rig up your aileron linkage using the same method we used on the elevator. You will not use a guide tube. Start with your Z-Bend and install to the aileron servo control horn. Measure, Mark, Bend, Cut and retain each control rod at the aileron control horn.

Step 15 Install the receiver. If you wish to use an Azarr or Litenna to reduce drag then install it now! CA the radio to the airframe.. hot glue works but it is heavy. Think lite. Wrap the radio with masking tape to protect it from the CA glue (you may wish to use this later on in another plane no?) Set the radio in the notched area that did not get a 1/4" balsa doubler (see photo). I like my pins to exit aft of the wing. Secure with a drop of thin ca between the masking tape and wing.



Step 16 It's time to start thinking about wire management. If you don't find a way to neatly tuck these in you'll end up with something resembling a rats nest under the plane. This will cause excess drag, reduce your speed, run time, etc... Are you starting to see where this is the ultimate pinewood derby plane for club events? - Some simple guidelines and a few parts to work with then it is all up to how you sand, fit, finish, and fly. I'll be tucking my servo wires in to the trough created by the carbon boom and the balsa doublers.



Step 17 Solder up your motor connection and slick it back against the carbon boom. Add velcro to your battery the affordable 300 and 450mAH Etec/Apache is my choice cell as it provides more then enough power for the stock / modified setups and streamlines very nice). Hint - clip your battery wires back - do you really need 6" of battery wire? Test mount your battery, CG the plane at the 25-30% point or roughly 1" back from the leading edge. You should be darn close to being right on with the moments I suggest - you can tweak the motor and battery forward or aft slightly to make fine corrections to CG. Check your controls for proper direction. If you set up your linkage as I illustrated, you won't need to mess with rates... If you have expo I find a touch of expo 15-20% on both aileron and elevator helps smooth things out. For your first flight, have a friend hand launch you over tall grass - run your motor to full throttle and instruct your friend to give a straight firm toss level with the horizon - fly the plane up to a reasonable altitude then cut power to 1/2 - trim for level flight and enjoy! The mini hotliner slows down well - extreme low speed manners are a touch mushy but there is plenty there for leveling the wings and flair. Land by plopping it in over the tall grass... if you skip in quite frequently on short terra firma you'll risk breaking props. Keep 2 or three props handy as you'll find that you only break a prop when you don't have a spare. Stock motor - high altitude < 5K ASL - use the twisty 4" HE prop. Low altitude setup on the stock motor use the gws 3x2 or 3x3 to suit. Other notes: I think the best way to lash the motor on is to use the heatsink as a mount - retain the motor with a rubber band or, better yet, small o-ring over each end of the can.

Enjoy your new Adrenaline Rush Micro Hotliner!

We love hearing from our customers. If you have photos of your project, comments, or suggestions please send them to [email protected]

adrenaline rush 10132006 - stevens aeromodel · 2010-03-01 · may be actionable under the united...

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