About cotton and the Cotton Value Added Chain

Montpellier 23 juin - 4 juillet 2008

Gourlot J.-P.

Plan of presentation

• About cotton• The cotton value

added chain• Instrument testing• Fiber and Yarn Quality

relationship• Conclusions

• A propos du coton• La chaîne de valeur

ajoutée du coton• Mesure instrumentale• Relations entre qualité

de la fibre et celle du fil• Conclusions

Cotton plant cycle

7 days 55 days

60 days

Cotton plant growth

FromCirad

‘Cotons’software

Harvesting and ginning

Cotton ginning

Roller

Saw

Cotton bolls harvest

Statistics and economy

05

10152025303540

1924

/2519

30/31

1936

/3719

42/43

1948

/4919

54/55

1960

/6119

66/67

1972

/7319

78/79

1984

/8519

90/91

1996

/9720

02/03

0

100

200

300

400

500

600

700Surface

(millions ha)Yield

(kg/ha)

World production(millions of tons)

Plan of presentation

• About cotton• The cotton value

added chain• Instrument testing• Fiber and Yarn Quality

relationship• Conclusions

• A propos du coton• La chaîne de valeur

ajoutée du coton• Mesure instrumentale• Relations entre qualité

de la fibre et celle du fil• Conclusions

Cotton cycle* (1/3)

Seeds

Sowing

Harvesting

Cropping (IPM, fertilizers …)

Ginning

Seeds Fibers

Bales Samples for quality control

Grouping / quality Marketing

OilFlour, …

Commercial parametersLength, Length unif, Strength

Color Rd% and +b, MicronaireAverage and variability

* From GOURLOT J.-P. et al 1999, Recherche et développement en

technologie : mesurer et améliorer la qualité des produits du cotonnier,

créer de nouveaux débouchés, Agriculture et développement,

n°22, Juin 1999, ISSN 1249-9951, pp. 90-113.

Cotton cycle (2/3)

Opening / cleaning / mixing

Card

Drawing frame

Ring spinning Rotor spinning

Other fibers

Yarn cleaning

Preparation to weaving

Weaving

Knitting

Dying / Finishing / ClothingMaturity

Easy care

Yarn strength and evenessSCF, yarn imperfections

Strength, fineness,Maturity, Length,

Length unif.,pollutions

Strength, fineness,Maturity, Length,

Length unif., pollutionsAverage, and variability

Cotton cycle (3/3)

Opening/cleaning/mixing

Card

Drawing frame

Ring spinning Rotor spinning

Other fibers

Yarn cleaning

Preparation to weaving

Weaving

Knitting

Dying / Finishing / ClothingMaturity

Easy care

Yarn strength and evenessSCF, yarn imperfections

Strength, fineness,Maturity, Length,

Length unif.,pollutions

Strength, fineness,Maturity, Length,

Length unif., pollutionsAverage, and variability

SeedsSowing

Harvesting

Cropping (IPM, fertilizers …)

Seeds FibersBales Quality control

Grouping / quality

Ginning

MarketingOil

Flour, …

Commercial parametersLength, Length unif, StrengthColor Rd% and +b, Micronaire

Average and variability

Plan of presentation

• About cotton• The cotton value

added chain• Instrument testing• Fiber and Yarn Quality

relationship• Conclusions

• A propos du coton• La chaîne de valeur

ajoutée du coton• Mesure instrumentale• Relations entre qualité

de la fibre et celle du fil• Conclusions

Fiber quality measurement

Example of ITC(This display does not constitute any type of recommendation for this equipment,

picture from an advertisement from Uster Technologies)

Strengthand more

Micronaire

ColorTrash content

Length

Length uniformity

Fiber quality measurement

Actual major manufacturers of so-call HVI equipments (alphabetic order)

- (Lintronics (Israel))- Premier (India)- (Schaffner Technologies (USA))- Zellweger Uster (USA) => Uster

Technologies

Fiber quality measurement

19801981

19821983

19841985

19861987

19881989

19901991

19921993

19941995

19961997

19981999

Year

0

200

400

600

800

1000

1200

1400

Number of HVI equipments

From Hunter, 2000

Fiber quality measurement

High Volume Instrument (HVI) in the world

Source : HUNTER L., ITMF Committee, Brème, Mars 1994.

North America46.9%

Australia1.6%

Far East23.3%

Africa3.9%

Europa15.2%

Middle-East1.8%

Cent., South America

7.4%

Total = 883 HVI

1 9 9 3

Economical incidence of qualityon fiber exchange price

Evolution of premium/discounts for HVI strength over 5 years ( P. SASSER EFS 1995)

-300

-200

-100

0

100

200

300

400

19 23 24 26 30US

cent

s/lb

19911992199319941995

Data collected during M. Sasser’s presentation

Sources of variability in the results

VarietyGrowing conditions(fertilizer, insects)

Plant to plantPicking technique

Farm size

Seed cotton preparationGinning technique (R/S)

Lint cleaning

RH conditions,HVI calibration

Nb tests / sample

Number of samples / baleNumber of bales / lotMethod of sampling

PrecisionAccuracy

RepeatabilityReproducibility

Plan of presentation

• About cotton• The cotton value

added chain• Instrument testing• Fiber and Yarn Quality

relationship• Conclusions

• A propos du coton• La chaîne de valeur

ajoutée du coton• Mesure instrumentale• Relations entre qualité

de la fibre et celle du fil• Conclusions

Deussen, 1992

Fibre quality per spinning method

Rank Ring spinning Open end Air-jet

1 Length Strength Length

2 Strength Fineness Trash

3 Fineness Length Fineness

4 Trash Trash Strength

Relations between yarnversus fiber quality

Open End

Ring spinningDrawing frame

Card

Relations betweenyarn versus fiber quality

24.228.983.730.35.73.8

0.9079.615517372.811.3

22.628.479.6255.02.9

0.6758.514321469.711.9

ML (mm)UHML (mm)UI (%)Strength (cN/tex)Elong (%)IMMRPM (%)H (mtex)HS (mtex)Rd (%)+b

Coton BCoton A

Relations betweenyarn versus fiber quality

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40

Tex

0

100

200

300

400

500

600

-100

Breaking force cN

Coton A RSCoton A OE

Breaking force = 14.45 x Tex - 79.07

Breaking force = 11.38 x Tex - 62.20

CRL yarn tenacity tests

Relations betweenyarn versus fiber quality

CRL yarn tenacity tests

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40

Tex

0100200300400500600700800

-100

Breaking force cN

Coton B RSCoton B OE

Breaking force = 17,27 x Tex - 39,14

Breaking force = 14,75 x Tex - 78.92

Relations betweenyarn versus fiber quality

CRL yarn tenacity tests (RS)

0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40

Tex

0100200300400500600700800

-100

Breaking force cN

Coton ACoton B

Breaking force = 17,27 x Tex - 39,14

Breaking force = 14,45 x Tex - 79,07

Relations betweenyarn versus fiber quality

Eveness tester UT3 : thick places (RS)

18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40

Tex

200

600

1000

1400

1800

thick places 1000 m

Coton A

Coton B

Relations betweenyarn versus fiber quality

Eveness tester UT3 : thin places (RS)

18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40

Tex

0

200

400

600

800

1000

1200Thin places 1000 m

Coton A

Coton B

Relations betweenyarn versus fiber quality

Eveness tester UT3 : neps places (RS)

18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40

Tex

100

300

500

700

900

1100

1300Neps 1000 m

Coton A

Coton B

Relations betweenyarn versus fiber quality

Eveness tester UT3 : hairiness (RS)

18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40

Tex

4

4.5

5

5.5

6

6.5

7

7.5

8Hairiness H

Coton A

Coton B

Relations betweenyarn versus fiber quality

Eveness tester UT3 : CV% (RS)

18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40

Tex

14

16

18

20

22

24

26CV %

Coton A

Coton B

Relations between yarnversus fiber quality

20 25 30 35 40 45 50

HVI strength (cN/tex)

100

300

500

700

900

Breaking force (cN)RS 20 tex r = 0,96OE 20 tex r = 0,96RS 27 tex r = 0,97OE 27 tex r = 0,98RS 37 tex r = 0,97OE 37 tex r = 0,98

Effect of fibre parameters on yarnresistance

• 191 cottons from various origins• Fibre analysis + spinning RS 20tex

Ten Fil = 0.44 TenHVI - 0.0016 H + 2.58 MR + 0.33 UI - 27.03R² = 0.76 ***

Fibre strength and UI vs yarn strenght RS 20 tex

111213141516171819

24 26 28 30 32 34HVI strength (g/tex, HVICC)

Yarn strength (cN/tex)

80

UI%

Fibre strength and UI vs yarn strenght RS 20 tex

111213141516171819

24 26 28 30 32 34HVI strength (g/tex, HVICC)

Yarn strength (cN/tex)

86

8284

80

UI%

Fibre strength and MRvs yarn strenght RS 20 tex

111213141516171819

24 26 28 30 32 34HVI strength (g/tex, HVICC)

Yarn strength (cN/tex)

0.70

MR

Fibre strength and MRvs yarn strenght RS 20 tex

111213141516171819

24 26 28 30 32 34HVI strength (g/tex, HVICC)

Yarn strength (cN/tex)

0.97

0.800.90

0.70

MR

Fibre strength and Hvs yarn strenght RS 20 tex

111213141516171819

24 26 28 30 32 34HVI strength (g/tex, HVICC)

Yarn strength (cN/tex)

130

H

Fibre strength and Hvs yarn strenght RS 20 tex

111213141516171819

24 26 28 30 32 34HVI strength (g/tex, HVICC)

Yarn strength (cN/tex)

170130

210

H

Fibres characteristicsvs yarn strenght RS 20 tex

11

12

13

14

15

16

17

18

1924 26 29 31 34 24 27 29 32 34 25 27 30 32 35

86

8284

80

UI%

0.97

0.800.90

0.70

MR

170130

210

H

HVI strength (g/tex, HVICC)

Yarn strength (cN/tex)

Fibres characteristicsvs yarn eveness RS 20 tex

• 30 cottons• Fibres characterization• Spinning OE 20, 27 and 37 tex • Spinning RS 20, 27 and 37 tex

Correlations coefficients between fibres characteristics and OE yarn eveness

ML UHML UI ST EL Thin pl. (FIN) 20 tex -0.55 -0.58 -0.33 -0.62 -0.43 Thick pl. (GRO) ‘’ -0.34 -0.37 -0.12 -0.34 -0.20 Neps (NEP) ‘’ -0.25 -0.28 -0.10 -0.26 -0.22 CV evenness (CVR) ‘’ -0.62 -0.63 -0.48 -0.60 -0.49 Hairiness (PIL) ‘’ -0.63 -0.61 -0.60 -0.55 -0.59 FIN 27 tex -0.54 -0.57 -0.33 -0.52 -0.41 GRO ‘’ -0.32 -0.35 -0.12 -0.29 -0.25 NEP ‘’ -0.29 -0.32 -0.10 -0.28 -0.27 CVR ‘’ -0.39 -0.40 -0.27 -0.27 -0.34 PIL ‘’ -0.57 -0.56 -0.52 -0.52 -0.41 FIN 37 tex -0.43 -0.44 -0.32 -0.34 -0.30 GRO ‘’ -0.39 -0.41 -0.23 -0.28 -0.34 NEP ‘’ -0.25 -0.29 -0.03 -0.21 -0.17 CVR ‘’ -0.29 -0.28 -0.29 -0.21 -0.26 PIL ‘’ -0.65 -0.64 -0.59 -0.49 -0.62

Correlations coefficients between fibres characteristics and RS yarn eveness

ML UHML UI ST EL Thin pl. (FIN) 20 tex -0.75 -0.70 -0.86 -0.68 -0.71 Thick pl. (GRO) ‘’ -0.85 -0.81 -0.87 -0.78 -0.81 Neps (NEP) ‘’ -0.60 -0.61 -0.42 -0.51 -0.60 CV evenness (CVR) ‘’ -0.89 -0.86 -0.89 -0.82 -0.83 Hairiness (PIL) ‘’ -0.72 -0.66 -0.86 -0.64 -0.73 FIN 27 tex -0.71 -0.66 -0.85 -0.64 -0.67 GRO ‘’ -0.82 -0.80 -0.79 -0.75 -0.79 NEP ‘’ -0.49 -0.53 -0.24 -0.41 -0.48 CVR ‘’ -0.90 -0.87 -0.90 -0.84 -0.85 PIL ‘’ -0.68 -0.62 -0.84 -0.64 -0.72 FIN 37 tex -0.66 -0.60 -0.82 -0.58 -0.60 GRO ‘’ -0.81 -0.79 -0.74 -0.73 -0.75 NEP ‘’ -0.47 -0.51 -0.20 -0.40 -0.43 CVR ‘’ -0.90 -0.86 -0.90 -0.83 -0.84 PIL ‘’ -0.71 -0.66 -0.86 -0.64 -0.75

Plan of presentation

• About cotton• The cotton value

added chain• Instrument testing• Fiber and Yarn Quality

relationship• Conclusions

• A propos du coton• La chaîne de valeur

ajoutée du coton• Mesure instrumentale• Relations entre qualité

de la fibre et celle du fil• Conclusions

Conclusion: Use of instrumentsConclusion : utilisation des instruments

• Commercialy characterizecotton fibers properties

– Standardization ongoingfor all measuredparameters (CSITC, …)

– Future evolutions to integrate new propertiescharacterization

– That may induce new rules in the trade

• Caractériser commercialementles propriétés des fibres de coton– Standardisation en cours

pour toutes les propriétés(CSITC, …)

– Évolutions futures pour intégrer d’autres propriétés

– Nouvelles règles attenduesdans la commercialisation

Conclusion: Use of instrumentsConclusion : utilisation des instruments

• Arrange laydowns to stabilize or control:

– Mean values

– Variability around thosemean values according to production means (fromfield to ginning mill), sampling procedures(from ginning to spinningmills) …

• Préparer les mélanges pour stabiliser ou contrôler

– Les valeurs moyennes

– La variabilité autour de cesvaleurs moyennes en fonction des moyens de production (du champ àl’égrenage), les procéduresd’échantillonnage (de l’égrenage à la filature, …)

Conclusion: Use of instrumentsConclusion : utilisation des instruments

• Predict the fiber behavior in the processing steps bothin terms of:

– Quality

– Productivity

• Prédire le comportementdes fibres pendant les étapes de transformation sur deux plans :

– Qualité– Productivité

Conclusion: Use of instrumentsConclusion : utilisation des instruments

• Control,

• Set a price

• Check,

• And set spinningmachineries

To get the highest yarnquality as demanded by the market

• Contrôler

• Définir un prix

• Vérifier

• Et régler les machines de filature

Pour obtenir la meilleurequalité des fils demandéepar le marché

Conclusion: Use of instrumentsConclusion : utilisation des instruments

• Breed new varietiesdepending on the improvements made in the transformation stages.

Depending on commercialy recognisedcharacterization

• Sélectionner de nouvellesvariétés en fonction des améliorations faites dansles étapes de transformation

En fonction des méthodesreconnues pour la commercialisation

What Cirad does and recommendsCe que le CIRAD fait et recommande

1) Apparatus calibration to insure a proper reading level.

2) Check and set-up of proceduresto warrant proper precision and accuracy levels.

3) Check of the results through a participation to periodicalinternational round tests.

4) Check the precision in classingroutine.

TO GET – Homogeneous results on the

cotton market

– Limited number of claims

1) Etalonner les appareils pour assurer le niveau de lecture

2) Vérifier et régler les procédurespour garantir la précision et la justesse des résultats

3) Vérifier les réultats grâce aux tests inter-laboratoires

4) Vérifier la précision dans les classements de routine

POUR OBTENIR– Des résultats homogènes dans la

filière coton

– Un nombre limité de réclamations

Thank you

for your attention