Abel Iloko

Abel Iloko istory records that cotton-loom woven textiles called inabel were rooted traditions at the time the Spanish colonized Ilocos Norte in 1572. China, Japan and Southeast Asia were already trading their gold, ceramics, jars, iron and beads with inabel in the natural harbors along the coasts. The Spaniards began to take interest in the inabel known for its strength and durability and endorsed it as excellent sails for galleons in the same way it was utilized locally in boats, barangays and other sea-going vessels. For centuries inabel has also been used to make blankets.

The quality pure cotton fabrics of Ilocos Norte became known far and wide and the demand for the raw and spun cotton as well as textile products of Ilocos by European, Chinese, Japanese and Indian traders, intensified. Because of its astonishing beauty the inabel has caught the attention of international couturiers who started working with Ilocano weavers in developing new designs. Its versatility is limited only to the imagination as local weavers continue developing new designs and techniques.

Originating from the Ilocos region,abel Ilokois known for being durable and resistant to shrinking and fading. Abel is Ilocano for weave, and inabel refers to the finished product. Weaving has always been done as a collective craft, normally at home with family or neighbors. One person prepares the thread, rolling it into large and small bobbins to load onto the loom. Another makes the trim that is sewn on during the finishing touches.

The actual weaving takes one to three weavers, depending on the pieces size. Smaller items like towels are made by one weaver on a small loom. Larger items (like our throws) take at least two weavers. Most weavers will have worked together for a good amount of time. They can coordinate their movements without even exchanging a word. They throw the shuttle back and forth, pull down the warp beam, and slam on the foot pedals in perfect, quick unison.Their job is made easier by the age of the looms. The wood has been smoothed down by decades (sometimes even centuries) of weavers before.For some pieces, a third weaver sits between the two main weavers to push and pull another set of threads to incorporate more elaborate designs. They do their work by natural sunlight, pausing to complete house chores and stopping when the sun starts to go down.

Traditional Steps of Weaving1. Pinagbukag ti kapas picking of cotton balls.

2. Panagladdit ti kapas removing the seeds with the use of a cotton gin.

3. Panangbatbat ti kapas pounding or beating with the use of the lagundi sticks.

4. Panangsunay / Panangtibbi ti kapas (Twisting) twisting the cotton using the spindle.

5. Panagilabay ti sagot (Skeining) winding the cotton yarn into the skeiner.

6. Panagtagud iti nailabay nga sagot (Combing) brushing the skeined yarn to make it durable and glossy.

7. Panagpulipol ti sagot (Spooling) winding the skeined yarn to the bamboo spool.

8. Panaggan-ay ti sagot (Warping) winding the spool yarn into the warping reel or tool for warping.

9. Pananglukot ti sagot (Beaming) winding the warp yarn into the warp beam rod.

10. Pinagisubo iti Gur-on (Heddling) inserting the warp yarn through the heddle eye with the use of the weavers hook.

11. Pinagisubo iti Sugod (Sleying) inserting the warp yarn through the dents or spaces of the reed with the use of the weavers hook.

12. Pinagipakat diay Pagablan (Tie-up / tying- in) dressing the loom to tie the heddles behind the beater.

13. Agabel (Weaving) the interlocking of vertical yarn (warp) known as gan-ay and the horizontal yarns (weft) as pakan.

Submitted to:

Mrs. Weena Guiang-Franco

Submitted by:

Brien Dean T. Lutap

Lizelle Joyce A. Onnagan

Danielle B. Quigao

BSN II-A

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