a-z of millennials in the middle east

A - Z of Middle East Millennials

A - Zof

Middle East

Brand Positioning • Innovation • Ideation Workshops • Design

http://www.butterflylondon.com/


As a leading brand and innovation company specialising in Emerging Markets, this winter Butterfly London is focusing on the Middle East. In particular, how are millennials making their

mark on the region and what does this mean for brands looking to engage them?

Having been responsible for the 2011 revolutions, they are a generation that know what they want and are not afraid to go after it. Making up around half of the Middle East’s population, this is a group of consumers that cannot be ignored, while the region’s retail is growing faster than in Russia or Asia.

For over a century, young Arabs have questioned the role of tradition and religion in their lives as

juxtaposed with modernity. They are therefore drawn towards brands that seek to answer these questions, from entrepreneurs challenging conventions to Western brands targeting them specifically.

Introduction


GGym

IInstagram

KKnowledge

HHalalification

JJewellery

LLuxury Beverages

MMove

قاعة التمرينات حالل إنستغرام املجوهرات املعرفة املشروبات الفاخرة النقل

NNow

PPride

RRamadan

OOnline Dating

QQueuing

S TTravel

اآلن مواقع التعارف الفخر الطوابير رمضان السفر

AArabish

CCosmetics

EEntrepreneurship

BBlogging

DDining

FFashion

العربيزي نة املدَوّ مستحضرات التجميل الطعام ريادة األعمال املوضة

UUnemployment

WWeather

YY-Chromosome

VVeiling

XX-rated

Zالبطالة احلجاب اجلو اجلنس الرجال

العزلSegregation

Zakatالزكاة




1 2 3 4١ ٢ ٣ ٤Islam and tradition for the modern age

Halalification Breaking away from Western brands

Compounding segregation

Trends


Click to go back to contents



AArabish

UN World Arabic Language Day is celebrated annually on December 18, and with increasing fervour due to the language’s marginalisation in favour of French and English by young Arabs. Another perceived threat is Arabish, a mixture of Arabic and English, or Arabic written in the Latin alphabet, that endangers the former’s well preserved “purity”.

Although older generations may see this as a problem, Millennials are embracing the change. Rather than representing a mutt language, a messy and confused merger between two disparate cultures, Arabish is seen

instead as the symptom of an emergent third culture that seamlessly integrates both.

Graphic designer and entrepreneur Salem Al-Qassimi from the UAE perfectly embodies this integration; in 2006 he founded Fikra which specialises in bilingual design. He sees the Arab world and particularly the UAE as undergoing a drastic change culturally and visually due to outside influence. In such an environment Fikra seeks to stay true to their Arabic culture and Islamic values while remaining at the forefront of this evolution.

العربيزي


Click the pictures to see more


http://www.fikradesigns.com


BBlogging

Like many high profile millennials in the Middle East, bloggers have unwittingly become the creators and definers of a third culture that seamlessly integrates technology and Western influence.

Huda Kattan is the undisputed queen of blogging in the Middle East, covering all aspects of beauty and make-up. An Iraqi raised in the US, the celebrity make-up artist based in Dubai has been listed as one of the 100 Most Powerful Arabs Under 40.

The Hybrids are the power couple of the Arab blogging world, so named as they are both half Kuwaiti. Their blog documents their outfits, which are always modest and stylish.

MuslimGent is a lifestyle blog that fills the void for Muslim men who are conscious of both their fashion and their religion. Although his blog seems to be unique in its purpose, he represents a huge proportion of Muslims and Arabs who could be more specifically targeted by brands.

نة املدَوّ




http://hudabeauty.com

https://www.instagram.com/ascia_akf/

http://muslimgent.com


CCosmetics

Two important considerations for Muslim consumers is that their products are halal, or at least organic, and that they are easily washed off for their 5 daily prayers.

There is a significant increase in the cosmetics market in the region of sharia compliant brands that contain ethical ingredients and no alcohol. Consumers often opt for organic brands as they are largely vegan and ethical, but they would be more reassured by brands that guarantee Islamic processes from ingredients to production and finances.

One Pure Beauty Cosmetics is a pioneer in the halal industry, founded in Canada and Dubai in 2006, a luxury skincare range that is 100% halal in terms of its ingredients and production process.

Founded in 2011, S’N’B has created a wash-off nail polish, primarily to be safe for children, but also a range for adults targeting Muslim women with wudhu-friendly (ritual cleaning before prayer) claims, as well as being free from harmful ingredients and alcohol.

مستحضرات التجميل




DDining

Restronaut is a social platform founded in Dubai that brings like-minded people together at a curated selection of the city’s best restaurants and venues.

Although social dining is not a totally unique concept (the app Chattable in the Netherlands hooks up lonely diners for interesting conversations, TableCrowd in London brings together professionals in the same

industry, VizEat takes you to locals’ homes as you travel), Restronaut puts the social back in social.

Diners can collect perks by booking their friends in too, such as a ride home, free drinks, part packs and dedicated bartenders. Guests simply pick their seat at a table according to the restaurant, the menu, or even the dinner’s theme.

الطعام




EEntrepreneurship

Incubators, accelerators, prizes and private funding across the region are making it easier than ever for millennials to start their own businesses. SMEs in the UAE represent 94% of all registered companies, and are mostly run by young people, as is the case in most other nations in the region.

In the UAE in particular, entrepreneurs are motivated by personal passion over profit, as the majority of employed Emiratis are in comfortable government jobs. 32-year-old Dubai-based entrepreneur Mohammed Kazim quit his government job and brainstormed with his team,

determined to create a brand that embodied his three passions of preserving identity, representing the Emirate culture and colouring people’s lives.

Thus Tamashee was born, a footwear brand that redesigned the traditional Gulf men’s sandal, the uncomfortable and extinct zbairiya. They factored in colour and as well as a 21st century design, and the first collection was released in 2014. They sought out creative talent in the Gulf, even succeeding to coax Saudi female designers away from their protective parents.

ريادة األعمال




FFashion

Dubai hosted the first Arab Fashion Week in October 2015, the first event of its kind, designed to be held biennially in the international fashion calendar on a par with New York, London, Milan and Paris. As well as welcoming international designers, it also showcased the talent of local Arab designers.

With Qatar as the venue for the 2022 FIFA World Cup and Dubai set to be the stage of the World Expo 2020, the region has clearly proven its growing capacity for hosting events on an enormous scale and in a range of industries.

املوضة




http://arabia.style.com/live-feed/madiyah-al-sharqi-fashion-forward-season-6-rtw-show-livestream/


PalestyleWith the promotion of local designers and greater support for home-grown brands post-2011, Arab fashion brands are gaining a greater share of the market and turning political instability into a cause for enterprise.Palestyle, for example, markets itself as the Middle East’s leading social luxury fashion brand. It invests in social development projects, providing job opportunities for refugee women who create the brand’s characteristic vibrant accessories featuring Arab calligraphy and hand embroidery.

املوضة

F




FUAE: Madiyah al SharqiBorn into the Furjairah royal family, Madiyah al Sharqi combines minimalism with intricate embroidery; Marie Antoinette with 20th century fashion; while accentuating femininity with delicate colours. She was awarded Best Fashion Designer at the 2013 Arab Woman Awards, and hopes to swing the direction of fashion influence in the world.

“I want to prove a point that it’s not only ‘them’ that can dress ‘us’ – maybe it can be the other way around too.”

Interview with The National (UAE)

املوضة




Morocco: BakchicSofia el Arabi is a Moroccan fashion designer and blogger who combines the tradition of her hometown Casablanca with Western trends. She started her brand as a response to the Arab world’s conflicted sense of identity and wanted to allow people to feel that they belonged, despite being

torn between disparate cultures.

“It’s about appreciating French cheese and Moroccan couscous at the same table, or wearing

blue jeans under a traditional Djellabas during the Friday prayer at the mosque.”

Interview with Lola Who

املوضة

F



A - Z of Middle East MillennialsGGym

Largely due to Western influence, there has recently been a women’s fitness boom in Saudi Arabia. Legally and socially it is a difficult industry in the country; religious conservatism dictates that it is improper for women to exercise, whilst women’s gyms operate in legal limbo due to licensing laws being restricted to men’s gyms only. Saudi women are increasingly seeking to leave the confines of their homes and are becoming more aware of the importance of fitness.

A Saudi princess founded NuYu in Riyadh in 2012, the country’s first

women’s fitness chain. Women can freely remove their abayas within the chain’s three branches in the city (and it still can’t keep up with the demand.) Obesity affects a third of Saudi women, while three-quarters rarely exercise, if at all.

Another enterprising woman catering to this trend is personal trainer Fatima Batook, who created TIMA, a sports apparel brand, and hopes to open 20 women’s spinning studios in the next 5 years.

قاعة التمرينات




HHalalification (Trend)

The designation of halal is increasingly branching out from the consumable industries of food and drink, to everything from cosmetics to holidays, as Muslims diversify their understanding of living piously. They are more concerned with purchasing halal products and services as they become more widely available, opening up opportunities across virtually all sectors. Vague approximations of vegan or organic products are becoming less acceptable as alternatives where halal is not available. Consumers look to be reassured wherever they can that their lifestyle complies with their religion.

حالل

حاللClick to go back to contents


IInstagram

Instagrammers represent the huge diversity of contemporary fashion adopted by millennials in the region today. The restrictions of individual countries create a significant opportunity to push the boundaries and to create new trends. For practicing Muslims Instagram is a difficult space to navigate due to its polarity with modest values.

“Modesty is the opposite of what Instagram is about, so it can certainly be controversial.”

Melanie Elturk, 30, founder of Haute Hijab (Chicago, USA), NY Times

Yasmina Olfi (@fashionmintea) is a Moroccan fashion and lifestyle

blogger, combining modern luxuries with the country’s traditional

garments and architecture.

Hadia Ghaleb (@hadiaghaleb) is an Egyptian fashion blogger, athlete and

entrepreneur. She effortlessly adapts her style from floor-length ball gowns, hot pants and

total coverage according to where she is.

Kuwaiti Instagramemr @mrmr_4 seeks to promote conservative

high fashion to her 700.000 followers in her signature

white headscarves.

إنستغرام




https://www.instagram.com/fashionmintea/?hl=en

https://www.instagram.com/hadiaghaleb/?hl=en

https://www.instagram.com/mrmr__4/?hl=en


JJewellery

The Middle East is home to many large-scale jewellery events, such as Jewellery Arabia which is in its 24th year. According to the Chaloub Group, only a third of luxury shoppers in the Middle East take sustainability into account when making purchases, but most expect brands to be proactive in their sustainable practices. Despite the ostentation of Dubai and Abu Dhabi, the UAE is home to two of the largest eco-cities in the world.

Bil Arabi was founded in 2006 in Dubai by Lebanese photographer and jewellery designer Nadine Kanso. Some of her most popular items are particular Arabic words that capture

the current mood in the region in different dialects.

“I am very interested in providing a basis to express pride in being Arab and being the keepers of such a rich cultural legacy. I consider my jewellery as one medium for communicating what it means to be young and Arab and proud.” – Nadine Kanso.

Founded in 2008, Shourouk is a Parisian jewellery brand, founded by its eponymous Tunisian designer, that puts Arabic in a global context. She creates bespoke designs with beads and Swarovski crystals, and counts Michelle Obama as a fan.

املجوهرات




KKnowledge

Many initiatives in the Middle East are trying to ease their economic dependence away from oil and into longer term industries. Millennials are at the forefront of this shift, turning to knowledge as a commodity to solve local problems.

Kuwait in particular acknowledges this as a necessity, as almost all of their export revenue comes from oil. Entrepreneurship is a significant part of this diversification, as well as initiatives to expand as a regional trade and finance hub. Saudi Arabia

is even more dependent on oil, as it represents 90% of the economy.

ArabNet was recently held in Riyadh, an event dedicated to building the mobile and web sectors in the Arab world, and demonstrated the extent of local youth engagement with technology. Speaking at the event, Amir Farha, founder of BECO Capital said, “The young Saudi population is heavily engaged, tech savvy and determined to solve local problems through technology”.

املعرفة




LLuxury Beverages

Non-alcoholic drinks are nothing new in the Middle East, but there has long been a gap in the market for luxury halal options. In the last year two brands have launched, recognising the demand for matching the glamour of beverages with the opulent lifestyles of Muslim consumers.

Lussory Gold is a new sparkling beverage suffused with 24-carat gold, for no particular reason. According to Forbes, Lootah Premium Foods orders 26,000 bottles to supply the UAE’s most prestigious restaurants.

So Jennie’s eponymous founder was inspired to create her non-alcoholic sparkling wine after attending glamorous weddings in the Middle East. She was disappointed by the lack of beverages to suitably fill the fine crystal tableware, and it is now served in Qatar Airline’s First and Business classes. The unique distinction of her brand, however, is that the product is never alcoholic and therefore does not need the alcohol removed, as Lussory Gold does.

املشروبات الفاخرة




MMove

Although we now look back at the pre-Uber days with awe as to how we survived, Arab millennials have come up with their own transportation solutions that solve problems that Uber has yet to address, or has no need to in the Western world.

Wasselni is an app in Gaza created by 26-year-old Mariam Abultewi that is unlikely to have to compete with Uber any time soon. As an intermittent warzone lacking 3G and a saturation of smartphones, it works offline and deals with cash. It also tackles the issue of traffic, by allowing car sharing with Facebook friends in the area, only possible in a region as small and

congested as the Gaza Strip. It also avoids Uber’s problem of enraging black cabbies by allowing taxi drivers and taxi companies to sign up.

Careem, a taxi app created by a Pakistani and a Swede, was launched in Dubai in 2012 before Uber arrived in 2013. They have now raised $60m towards expansion beyond their current 20 cities in the Middle East and Pakistan. Unlike Uber, Careem gives you the option to schedule a ride for later, and also to pay in cash. Its additional benefits include repeat bookings for regular trips, and booking through their website or by phone for increased localisation.

النقل




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mpCbUsK_miU


NNow(Trend)

Many Middle Eastern millennials see aspects of Arab and Islamic culture as less relevant in the modern age. They have taken it upon themselves to embrace their longstanding historic traditions and repurpose them for today. They are proving that they are compatible with their modern lifestyles and ideals rather than being contradictory. Entrepreneurs have turned cosmetics into symbols of piety; extinct traditional garbs into fashion pieces; made non-alcoholic drinks glamorous and thobes sexy; replaced matchmaking with online dating; and even associated prayer with sex.

اآلن




O“Among the young there is growing

pressure to resist arranged marriages. You’ve seen Fiddler on the Roof.

We are the matchmaker.”

Cedric Maalouf, Management Today

Founded on Valentine’s Day 2013 by Lebanese entrepreneur Cedric Maalouf, Et3arraf is the Arab world’s first dating website. In addition to their matchmaking service, it allows young Arabs to bypass their parents’ potentially disastrous matchmaking skills to find a partner that satisfies them culturally and religiously. Although young Arabs seek to be modern and liberal in many ways, marriage and relationships are still regarded with a heavy bias towards tradition and conservatism. The antithesis to Tinder, users must

chat to each other before they are able to request to see what each other looks like.

Online dating could be particularly lucrative in the Middle East, as it is difficult for young people to mix with the opposite sex. It is even endorsed by governments, such as Iran where the state has launched its own site. The country is trying to tackle high divorce rates among its millennial population, who often enter into temporary marriages to get around the law preventing pre-marital sex.

Online Dating

مواقع التعارف




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pj9YHJjLF1g


PPride(Trend)

Particularly since the revolutions of 2011, Arabs have felt a keen sense of pride towards their nations and communities. According to Campaign Middle East, Arab youth therefore carefully consider a brand’s country of origin before purchasing, often boycotting for political reasons or supporting what’s local.

Lebanese brand L’Atelier.C demonstrates such local pride, as seen with this dress featuring the Lebanese national anthem and traditional Arabic calligraphy.

Arab brands have bravely stood up to international competitors and prevented their monopoly, such as Careem challenging Uber’s arrival in the region and Talabat holding its ground against Deliveroo’s expansion. Not only do young Arabs have the talent to do this, but the steadfast determination and the opportunity to solve problems that we have not encountered in the West, thereby creating a competitive edge.

الفخر




QQueuing

Queuing is a sacred part of British culture, yet in many countries in the Middle East it does not exist as a concept, meaning telecoms companies often use a numbered ticket system. As the pace of life quickens in the region, millennials are looking to avoid waiting around.

Following the insight from Emirates 24/7 that 41% of UAE residents spend up to 2 hours a day in traffic, duApp helps Emiratis spend less time in queues. Du, a local telecoms company, now offers an appointment booking service up to 2 hours in advance. After booking an hour slot, customers will be automatically seen next after they

arrive in their selected branch. The app also allows analysis of customers’ usage, account management, access online support and online shopping.

الطوابير




RRamadan

Western brands have started to recognised Ramadan as a period when women are more concerned with dressing modestly, whilst during Eid al-Fitr (the 3-day celebration at the end) Muslims are more likely to self-indulge.

DKNY began the trend last year with a Ramadan collection, followed by Mango, and Tommy Hilfiger this year, while Giorgio Armani has created chocolate for the holy month.

Brands should be careful to retain the modest aspect of their collections,

using sombre colours and avoiding seductive advertising, as well as commercialising the holiday season in the way that Christmas is.

D&G has just gone one step further and created a collection of abayas and hijabs outside of Ramadan, making use of their indigenous Italian black lace and characteristic daisies with a conservative twist. We’re not convinced side-splits are halal but there will certainly be plenty of interest.

رمضان




SSegregation(Trend)

Gender and religious segregation is becoming increasingly compounded as women are brought further into the public sphere and Muslims seek to be within the safe confines of halal prescriptions that exclude non-Muslims.

Men-only spas have been around for a while in Dubai, but Saudi Arabia now has the 5 star Luthan Hotel and Spa, which is women-only including the staff, making Luthan the first of its kind. Riyadh’s Kingdom Mall has a women-only floor with its own spa and hairdressers, as well as designer shops and the obligatory Starbucks. Women are also being targeted more

directly by premium brands who recognise their growing spending power, such as Al Hilal Bank in UAE which has created, believe it or not, a scented credit card for female customers.

These trends may be viewed critically as they are possibly exacerbating the perceived polarity between men and women, and between Muslims and non-Muslims. They do, however, present opportunities for brands to target them more specifically. Saudi women will be looking for further leisure opportunities outside of the home beyond hotels, gyms and malls.

العزل




TTravel

According to Ali Hashmi, Google’s Head of Tourism & Hotels MENA, Millennials in the region are early adopters of technology and are idealistic about its power. Due to most of their online activity occurring on their phones, they are always connected. They are often spontaneous travellers and appreciate personalisation. They consider travel to be a very important part of their lifestyle, are are more loyal to brands than their Western peers.

A growing trend over the last 5 years has seen Muslims seeking out halal holidays. Halal travel operators ensure every aspect of the holiday is strictly

halal, from segregated swimming pools to hotels that don’t serve alcohol. We are now seeing websites (halalbooking.com) and apps that allow holidaymakers greater control in this area.

Such an app is HalalTrip, which both offers packages and tools to find your closest halal eaterie, mosque, or the direction of Mecca, even during flights. , even during flight. As well as apps, another online medium hugely favoured by Arabs looking for travel inspiration is YouTube. According to Think With Google, 81% of Saudis watched a video to help decide on their destination.

السفر




UUnemployment

The Middle East is the region with the highest rate of unemployment in the world, largely among millennials where the rate is twice as high - as many as a quarter of all 15-24 year olds.

According to Sheikha Bodour bint Sultan bin Muhammad Al Qasimi, Emirati royalty and founder of publishing house Kalimat Group,

the MENA region must create 80-100 million jobs in the next decade, partly to counter the widening gap between education and work skills, and to further integrate women into the workforce.

The future is not all bleak, however, as she notes that Arab youth are hugely enterprising, changing from job seekers to job creators.

البطالة




VVeiling

The hijab is a symbol that unites Muslim women around the world, and in the last few years its purpose has gone beyond modesty and become a fashion accessory in itself. Hijabi YouTubers have become hugely popular, giving tutorials on how to style hijabs.

They are, however, largely from Western countries, perhaps due to the lower risk of criticism outside the Arab world. Criticism stems from the notion that the purpose of hijab is to preserve modesty and to avert male attention and by posting videos online, they are contradicting this.

“Ten years ago if you said that you were wearing a hijab for

fashion reasons, people would have laughed at you.”

Zulfiye Tufa, 25, founder of the Hijab Stylist (Melbourne, Australia), NY Times

Pictured here in a look inspired by Beyoncé

احلجاب




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Du0c4YDjDdA


VIn the same way that Muslim bloggers and Instagrammers are also susceptible to such criticism, they are all in fact pioneers, exploring the way in which Islam can be compatible with Western trends and modern values. Hijabi YouTubers are inspiring young Muslim girls to wear it and feel more comfortable with their religion, as well as making non-Muslims aware of its wider sartorial appeal, and that it is not a symbol of oppression, but rather self expression and equality.

Egyptian-British Dina Tokio (right) is arguably the most popular Hijabi YouTuber out there, with over 30 million views and 280,000 subscribers.

“[On getting a lot of criticism] But there are so many girls I am inspiring to wear a hijab, so ultimately I feel like I’m helping.”

Yasemin Kanar, 26, a fashion blogger and entrepreneur (Florida, USA), NY Times

احلجاب




WWeather

The Middles Eastern climate means that many imported products are rendered ineffective.

Wow is a new brand by leading Middle Eastern beauty retailer Wojooh, a make up range inspired by and designed for Arab women and their aesthetic ideals, as well as climate. Their heat resistant products include a long-lasting liquid foundation and mascara.

There seems to be a considerable opportunity for other brands to dedicate themselves towards either withstanding the dry heat, or making it more comfortable, such as breathable abayas (Islamic long black dresses). اجلو




XX-rated

Sex continues to be a covert industry due to conservative attitudes towards relationships. It must therefore be discussed subtly or by focusing on a more socially acceptable aspect of the act. This would generally be love due to sex only being culturally permissible within marriage.

And so what do you get when you cross Amsterdam’s sex scene with Islamic sensibilities? El Asira, a halal luxury sex brand. Founded in 2010 by a Dutch Muslim, he got around the taboo by removing lust from the equation, focusing on the sensual and spiritual relationship of married couples. Their products claim to provide a deeper meaning to sexuality

by respecting the woman and placing her on a pedestal. This ode to women was the founder’s unique concept, aiming to encourage couples to show each other love, and even to build bridges between East and West, men and women. We’re not sure how effective this is if the focus is on the woman and not on the couple as equal partners… perhaps an area to explore to actually achieve this aim of bridging.

Meanwhile, Durex in the Middle East uses its characteristic tongue-in-cheek humour, commending Egyptian tanks for “raising their flags” in commemoration of a national holiday marking their war with Israel. اجلنس




http://www.elasira.com

http://www.elasira.com


YY-Chromosome

Although men have not intentionally been ignored here, this is because both local and foreign brands have done less to appeal to the modern Arab man and therefore they seem to represent a niche in the market, as indicated by MuslimGent’s blog.

Men are now levelling out the gender ratio going under the knife, representing a third in Iran and 40% in the UAE. They therefore have similar aesthetic concerns as women but are not as well catered for. Although designer brands are beginning to target women with Ramadan collections, hijabs and abayas, little progress has been made in designer Islamic garments for men, such as the traditionally white thobe worn in the Gulf. Thus far, men are limited

to either fully traditional or fully modern clothing with little filling the gap in between for the fashion forward Muslim.

The only fashion brand that seems to be doing this succesfully is Toby by cosmopolitan Saudi designer Hatem Alakeel. Toby means “my thobe” in Arabic while also sounding English. The brand proudly labels itself as “the embodiment of when the beloved traditional meets the modern contemporary in perfect harmony”, which is precisely what the market is currently lacking across most industries. Their thobes range from the tradition white thobe with contemporary accents, to mock tuxedo thobes and those with a somewhat hipster vibe.

الرجال




http://www.tobybyhatem.com


ZZakat

Zakat is one of the five pillars of Islam, an obligation to donate a portion of their income to charity. Philanthropy is therefore an intrinsic part of their culture, as well as religion.

According to a report by Coutts, a key emerging trend in the Gulf sees a greater focus by donors on the impact of their giving, partly due to technology which brings donors closer to the causes. This means they are thinking more carefully about

where their money is going and how they can maximise its social impact.

We can expect the next generation to become actively involved in philanthropy, with millennials already demonstrating their dedication. The Dubai Cares 2015 campaign raised money this year during Ramadan to tackle child illiteracy. The campaign crowd-sourced an alphabet book as Instragrammers tagged pictures of objects #DubaiCares.

الزكاة




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QiCnw2hNopc&feature=youtu.be


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a-z of millennials in the middle east

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