54 umbro garment quality process control
DESCRIPTION
Umbro Garment Quality ProcessTRANSCRIPT
GARMENTS / TRIMS / MATERIALS QUALITY GARMENTS / TRIMS / MATERIALS QUALITY PROCESS CONTROLPROCESS CONTROLPROCESS CONTROL PROCESS CONTROL
PROTOTYPES PROTOTYPES
Must be measured at source
These are required to be produced for every new/amended style per season, exact to Specification provided by Umbro.
These garments are reviewed during internal meetings for fit, styling and function.
Prototype samples can be made in available fabric.
Specification/fabrication of the style can change dramatically atSpecification/fabrication of the style can change dramatically at this stage.
Please note that Prototype samples measuring beyond tolerancePlease note that Prototype samples measuring beyond tolerance will NOT be fitted. It is the supplier’s responsibility to ensure factories do not submit garments that do not measure to spec.
PREVIEWS / CONFERENCEPREVIEWS / CONFERENCE
All fit and style amendments carried out at the Prototype stage must be carried out for Preview samples.
Previews must arrive with the Prototype comments attached to samples and ticked/checked off as a record that Prototype comments have been carried out.carried out.
Trims, Fabrics and Embellishments MUST be submitted for comments/ approval with Preview samples, along with relevant test report. pp p , g p
SALESMEN’S SAMPLE (SS)SALESMEN’S SAMPLE (SS)
These must be representative of bulk.
All trims and embellishments must be signed off.
SS must be produced at the source of bulk production.
Source switching beyond this point in development is NOT acceptable.
Matrix CFA conducts inline and final inspection
Matrix to send 1pc/style to Nike APPI along with comments sheet.
SIZE SETSSIZE SETS
All sizes to be submitted unless otherwise advised by the technologisttechnologist
Size sets must be measured at source and discrepancies logged
d h k d i t ttand checked against patterns
Measurement log must be attached to Size Set samples sent to pUMBRO.
Size set samples can be made in available colour fabricavailable colour fabric.
Matrix CFA – 100% inspection / approval
Matrix to send a reference size set to Nike API
SEALING SAMPLES SEALING SAMPLES
Sealing samples must be produced prior to any cutting of bulk
Sealing samples to be submitted in bulk fabrics / trims and be packaged as bulk production
A minimum of 4 sealing samples is required, across the colours, to be submitted in the following sizes:
Men’s 4 x L Women’s 4 x 12
J i 4 MBJuniors 4 x MB Infants All sizes Babies All sizes
Note: Matrix submits 2 unwashed, 1 washed garment
SEALING SAMPLESSEALING SAMPLES
All colourways to be submitted for final seal approval
Failure to adhere to this may result in incorrect bulk productionFailure to adhere to this may result in incorrect bulk production and risk of stock rejection.
Garments must be an exact representation of bulk production. p p
WEARER TRIAL SAMPLES WEARER TRIAL SAMPLES
These can be requested at any stage of the UMBRO Sealing process.
Wear trail garments to be correct fabric and trims if available.Wear trail garments to be correct fabric and trims if available.
Results of Wearer Trials will be documented and are available for suppliers upon request.
Potential problems highlighted due to Wearer Trials must be rectified by the supplier prior to Bulk shipment.
SEALING PROCEDURE SEALING PROCEDURE
All samples must be submitted with a swing ticket attached which states style code colour code size season if componentswhich states style code, colour code, size, season, if components are bulk or available, and the type of sample i.e. proto, seal etc.
SAFETY CHECKLIST SAFETY CHECKLIST
All components are evaluated for safety at Prototype and p y ypSealing stage.
All garment components must be tested as set out in the UMBRO Trim Testing Standard and test reports approved by the technologist. t e tec o og st.
PP MEETINGPP MEETING
PP Meeting is conducted between Factory and Matrixbetween Factory and Matrix CFA before start of bulk cutting on trial garments
Fabrication, cutting, embellishment constr ction &embellishment, construction & stitching, finishing concerns are discussed
Special attention is given to iti l ticritical operations
CUTTING CUTTING
Fabric to be rechecked when laid up
All knitted fabrics to be allowed to relax over night before cutting
Check press settings and performance
dl b h k dBundle contents to be checked. 100% checking on cutting panel
Napped fabrics to be cut in one direction
Parties involved : FactoryParties involved : Factory
MQP INCOMING MATERIALSMQP INCOMING MATERIALS
4 points system with 20 points max for defect
Sample si e : 10% of incoming material qtSample size : 10% of incoming material qty
Test report from material supplier
Spectro reading from material supplier
Visual checking by FCI (Factory Certified Inspectior for material)
MQP INCOMING MATERIALSMQP INCOMING MATERIALS
Inspection report from material supplier
Reference sample in hanger from material supplier
RSL testing from material supplier
Color matching body and rib
Color blocking wash testColor blocking wash test
Flammability testing (apply on cotton)
pH and Phenolic Test for White Color Material
MQP INCOMING TRIMSMQP INCOMING TRIMS
Heat TransferVisual Inspection 100%Visual Inspection 100%Application method from supplierTrial test for application (factory)Wash test
Badge, PatchesVisual Inspection 100%MD S i 10%MD Scanning 10%Wash Test
Snap ButtonsSnap ButtonsVisual Inspection 100%MD Scanning 10%Torque and tension testTorque and tension test
Note: all trims must be non ferrous.
EMBELLISHMENTSEMBELLISHMENTS
i l h ki100% visual checking on panels received from embroidery / print / heat y ptransfer
Print / Heat transfer will have strike off testing
Matrix CFA to carry out random audit
QUALITY CONTROL QUALITY CONTROL PRODUCTION FLOORPRODUCTION FLOOR
Inline audit for first output by factory QC and Matrix CFA
Sewing inline / Operational inline
End line audit – 100% (factory)End line audit 100% (factory)
QUALITY CONTROL PRESSING QUALITY CONTROL PRESSING
Under-pressing to be used where required
Check garments are not over-pressed
Moisture to be removed before packing p g
QUALITY CONTROL QUALITY CONTROL FINISHED GOODSFINISHED GOODSFINISHED GOODSFINISHED GOODS
MD scanning – 100% (factory)
Pre-Final audit – max 20% of total packed units / PO by CFA
Final audit – AQL 0.6 by CFA for all PO’s, Random max two final audits by Nike API
All garments to be visually checked for faults, chalk / dirty marks, thread ends etc
All garments to be checked against the sealed sample for design
I ti t b i d t t t tInspection to be carried out on garments to ensure measurements are as the approved size specification.
[BRING IT ON]