53992268 finishing of garments

8/2/2019 53992268 Finishing of Garments

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FINISHING OF GARMENTS

- Durable press finish

- Wash-n-wear finish

Presented by:

Avinash Mishra

Saurabh Suman


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Cellulose fibres and especiallycotton are still important fibres

dueto various advantages. However, oneoftheir main

disadvantages is wrinkling afterwashing which can be

overcome by a very special kind of finish. These arecalled as

Drip-dry, Wash & Wear, Easycare, Easyto iron, no-iron,

crease resistant, durable press, permanent press, shrink

proof, wrinkle free finishes


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WASH & WEAR FINISHES:

These are also referred to as drip-dry finishes.

They areofthe sametype as wrinkle resistant finishes.

Garments madeof fabrics with wash and wear finishes will

dry smooth and need littleor no ironing afterwashing.

The fabrics have a good soft hand and a neat appearance.

Wash and wear finishes have been primarily used on broad

cloth and oxford shirting and applied toothercotton fabrics.


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Each company has its own trade mark for its drip-dry finish.

Garments madeof fabrics treated with this finish may be

Commerciallylaundered.

The primary advantage is that such garments laundereasily at home

and need no ironing. This tends to increasetheirwear since home

laundering is less harsh as a mild soap is used.

In somecases, wash and wear finishes causeyellowing when a

chlorine bleach is used, labels should therefore be read carefully.

Do notwring the garments or spin drythem in washing machineor in

a dryer.

Rinsethem well, hang them on wooden or plastic hangers, buttoned

and straightened out and allowthem to drip dry.


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Durableor Permanent press finishes:

The developmentof permanent press, also referred to as PP &

durable press finishing techniques is s great achievement for

manufacturers toovercome difficulties in making wrinkle resistant

goods in to garments.

This finish gavethe fabrics a built- in memorywhich interfered

with shaping garments toconform to bodycontours, pressing

creases intotrousers and putting pleats in skirts.

Wash and wear finishes described earlier is a precured process,

i.e., beforethe goods arecut and sewn into garments.

The permanent press finishes are postcured.


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I. Fabric Resin Cross linkingDry at

open

width

Cure atopen width

Cut, sew

and pressPrecured

Ex: Shirting, Draparies etc. which requireC/P blends

not set in creases.


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II. Postcured or permanent press:

Fabric Resin cross linking Dry at

open

width

Cut, sew and pressCure products

at 300-400o F

Post

cured

Ex: Used for skirts, slacks and other products.

Common with cotton and polyester blends.


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Methods of application on garments:

1. Immersion process:

Dye and finish the product for a specific fashion

look

Immersethe garmentor product in the finishing

agent and extractexcess finish and drythe

product.

Hand and performance are modified with fabric

softeners and othercompounds sothatthe

finished productwill appealtoconsumers.


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Press desired features-likecreases, pleats etc.

in to garmentwith special press

Cure product in curing oven at 300o F for 5-15 min

Used for fashion apparelof 100% cotton

Also known as the garmentor product dip process


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2. Metered-Addition process:


look

Spraythe garments or productwith finishing agent

in a rotating chamber. Tumbletill uniformly

processed

Hand and performancecan be adjusted with fabricsofteners and othercompounds

Press desired features


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Cure at 300o F for 5-15 min.

Used for fashion apparel and furnishings, bed

linens and towels of 100% cotton

3. Vapour phase process:


look

Press desired features into garmentwith a hot

press


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Hand and performancecan be adjusted withsofteners and othercompounds

Apply finish in a vapour form tothe product in

a closed chamber and curewhile in chamber

Used forcotton and other natural fibres

Uses less finishing chemicals sotheeffecton

hand, abrasion resistance and staining is less


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Keraton, Supercrease, Dan-press, Cone press,

Sharp shape, Kara set, Never-press, Ameri-set

are someofthetrade names for permanent

press or durable press finish fabrics.


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DURABLE PRESS WOOL:

It is achieved by a combination of resin treatmentWhich controls wools excessive shrinkage.

Si-Ro-Set is a trade name.

1. Flat fabric is treated with 1-2% of durable pressresin and steamed for 3-5 minutes

2. Item is made up, sprayed with more durable

press resin and pressed

Shrink resistance resin is mixed with a drycleaning

solvent and item is drycleaned

The resin is cured 3-7 days beforelaundering


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Durable-press Silk:

Since silk wrinkles easilywhen wet, poly

carboxylic acid is used to produce durable

press orwrinkle resistant silk.

This finish is durabletolaunderings butlooses

20 % loss of strength, increase in stiffness and

decrease in whiteness.


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Requirements:

1. No iron oreasyto iron

2. Durable press performance

3. Dimensional stability

4. Soft and pleasant handle

5. High abrasion stability

6. Tear strength


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Chemicals used:

Urea Formaldehyde

DMU-Dimethylol urea

Melamine formaldehyde

TMM Tri to hexamethylol melamine

DHEU Di hydroxyethylene urea

DMDHEU- Di methylolethylene urea


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Mechanisms ofeasy-care and durable press finishing:

The primarycauseofthe shrinkageofcellulosic fibres is thefactthatthese fibres can readily absorb moisture. This

absorbed moisture facilitates internal polymerchain

movements in the amorphous fibre areas bylubrication.

This disrupts the internal hydrogen bonding between thesepolymerchains. When a moistureladen cellulosic fibre is

stressed, the internal polymerchains ofthe amorphous areas

are freeto moveto relievethat stress.

Hydrogen bonds can reform between the polymerchains intheir shifted positions, in effectlocking in the new

configuration. With no restoring forces available, a newly

formed wrinkleorcreasewill remain until additional

processes (ironing forexample) apply adequate moisture and

mechanical forces toovercomethe internal forces.


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The new arrangementofthecellulose molecules in the

swollen form ofthe fibre is fixed by newly formed hydrogen

bonds between adjacentcellulose molecules, mostly in the

amorphous fibre area. Thereforethe uneven and wrinkledappearanceofthecellulose fabric remains after drying, in

contrastto fabrics madeof non swelling synthetic fibres.

Two differentchemical approaches have been used

commerciallyto produce non-swelling or durable presscellulose fabrics.

Theoriginal approach is the incorporation of a polymerised

finish in the pores ofthe fibres, sothatwater molecules

cannoteasily penetratethe fibre.

The newer approach is the reaction of multifunctional

crosslinking agents with the hydroxyl groups of adjacent

cellulose molecules that hinderthe swelling ofthecellulose

fibre.


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Mechanism ofcreating Durable Press


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Care:

Wash items frequently because resins have a strongAffinity foroil and grease

Pretreat stains, collars and cuffs.

Use spot removal agenton grease spots

Keep wash loads smallto minimizewrinkling

Avoid setting in wrinkles with heat

Keep washing temperaturecool

Remove items promptlywhen dry


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THANK YOU

53992268 finishing of garments

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