1. YARN COUNT &YARNYARN COUNT &YARN MODIFICATIONMODIFICATION

2. YARN COUNT/YARN SIZE/ YARNYARN COUNT/YARN SIZE/ YARN NUMBERNUMBER It can also be called Yarn number or Linear Density. The count of a yarn is a numerical expression which defines its Fineness 3. The different systems of expressing the yarn number are: Theses systems depends on the material used for preparing the yarn are 1. DIRECT SYSTEM 2. UNIVERSAL SYSTEM OR TEX SYSTEM 3. INDIRECT SYSTEM 1. DIRECT SYSTEM 2. UNIVERSAL SYSTEM OR TEX SYSTEM 3. INDIRECT SYSTEM 4. DIRECT SYSTEM = INDIRECT SYSTEM = weight per unit of length of yarn length per unit of weight of yarn 5. DIRECT SYSTEM (Denier)DIRECT SYSTEM (Denier) The denier of the yarn is the number of unit of weight per unit of length. The unit of length remains constant. This system is used for silk, jute and manmade fibers. The smaller the number, finer the yarn. Denier = Weight in Grams Length in 9000 m 6. UNIVERSAL SYSTEM (Tex)UNIVERSAL SYSTEM (Tex) Tex system can be used from fiber to yarn stage. This is a direct system of yarn numbering. It is applicable to both natural and synthetic yarns. Tex is defined as the weight of the yarn in grams present in 1000 m or 1 km length. Tex= Weight in Grams Length in 1000 m or 1 km Tex= Weight in Grams Length in 1000 m or 1 km 7. INDIRECT SYSTEM (Count)INDIRECT SYSTEM (Count) Count is the number of units of length per unit of weight of yarn. The unit of weight remains constant. It is used for cotton, wool, worsted yarns and linen etc. The lower the count ,the coarser the yarn. This system is also referred as Cotton system. The count of the yarn is defined as number of hanks to a pound. 8. INDIRECT SYSTEMINDIRECT SYSTEM Cotton count Wool count Worsted count Metric count Several indirect systems are used in practice depending on the type of yarn produced, and the spinning system. 9. Cotton CountCotton Count For cotton yarns, the English or cotton count is used to express yarn fineness. The unit of length in an English count system is the hank, 840 yd, and the unit of weight is 1 lb. No. of (840 yards) / 1 pound 10. An example of Indirect SystemAn example of Indirect System If 40 Hanks each containing 840 yards of the yarn weigh 1 lb, then the yarn count is 40 and will be expressed as 40s where s stands for singles. If yarns of different count are twisted each count is mentioned, as for e.g. 20/30s indicates twisting together of a single 20s yarn and single 30s yarn. 11. Woolen /Worsted CountWoolen /Worsted Count For wool yarns, two indirect systems are commonly used: (i) the Woolen system, and (ii) the Worsted system. In the Woolen system, the unit length (or the hank) is 256 yards, and the unit of weight is pound. In the Worsted system, the unit length (or the hank) is 560 yards, and the unit of weight is pound. 12. Metric SystemMetric System "Metric" system is commonly used in Europe. In this system, the unit length is kilometer, and the unit of mass is kg. 13. System Formula Direct: weight per unit of length of yarn Denier Weight in Grams/9000 m length Tex Weight in Grams/1000 m length Indirect: length per unit of weight of yarn Cotton Count No. unit length (840 yards) / 1 pound Wool Count No. unit length (256 yards) / 1 pound Worsted Count No. unit length (560 yards) / 1 pound Metric count No. unit length (1 km) / 1 kg 14. Yarn count conversion formula: 15. Fiber to Yarn Conversion System 16. Beesley BalancesBeesley Balances 17. S / J S / J Count GSM Count GSM 22 220 30 160 24 180 30 190 24 180 30 150 24 160 30 160 26 160 30 180 26 180 34 140 26 170 34 140 28 140 40 120 28 180 40 120 28 160 40 110 28 155 50 100 30 140 50 90 30 150 Study of the relation of count and G.S.M GSM: GSM means the weight in gram per square meter of fabric. 18. S/J Lycra Actual count GSM 30.0266 245 30.0266 200 30.0266 200 30.0266 200 30.0266 230 30.0266 210 30.0266 210 30.0266 200 34.0266 165 34.0266 165 34.0266 190 34.0266 165 40.0266 145 40.0266 150 40.0266 150 Interlock Count GSM 46 172 46 172 40 195 40 195 34 230 36 200 36 220 Double Lacost Count GSM 24 220 24 220 24 220 24 220 26 220 26 160 1 X 1 Rib 1 X 1 Rib Count GSM Count GSM 22 255 30 220 22 190 30 200 24 240 30 190 24 180 30 220 24 230 30 180 26 240 30 230 26 230 30 230 28 220 34 170 28 200 34 180 28 200 34 180 28 220 34 195 28 230 2X2 Rib Count GSM 28 220 28 220 28 320 28.0076 300 19. Fabric Constants Single jersey y = -3.3465x + 256.56 Single jersey lycra y = -6.6089x + 407.04 Single lacoste y = -5.695x + 340.59 Double lacoste y = -15x + 580 11 Rib y = -4.496x + 342.35 22 Rib y = 6140.4x 171676 Interlock y = -4.3074x + 368.78 Equations at a glance 20. Yarn ModificationYarn Modification 21. Yarn processing is the first series of operation The steps varies for different fibers In making fiber into yarns there are two types of processes 1- General process- Common to many yarns. 2- Texturizing process- To obtain special textured effect,extra bulk,stretch or a combination of all. (5) Processing of yarns 22. 2. Texturizing process imparts- a). a permanent loop, curl or crimp to individual filament b). more opaque c). have a different appearance or feel warmth d). more absorbent e). non-pilling quality f). greater durability g). moisture absorbent 23. filament yarnsbulk yarns methods of adding texture/bulk: false-twist process draw-texturing stuffer box air-jet knit-deknit 24. Single yarn (Product of first twisting operation) Ply yarn (Product of second twisting operation) Cord (Product of third twisting operation) (10) 25. 2. Novelty yarn Made for their appearance value. Irregular in size, twist and effect. Has three basic parts- 1. The ground or foundation 2. The fancy or effect 3. The binder That are loose and bulky give crease resistance to fabric. Add interest to plain weave fabric. If used in one direction, usually in filling direction. (11) 26. Different type of novelty yarns:- 1-Slub Yarn - 2- Flock Yarn 3-Spiral Yarn (12) 27. 4-Ratine Yarn 5-Boucle Yarn 6-Knot Yarn 28. 7-Core Spun Yarn 8-Metallic Yarn (14) 9-Chenille Yarn 29. 39 SLUB YARNSLUB YARN A slub yarn is one in which slubs have been deliberately created to produce the desired discontinuity of effect. Slubs are thick places in the yarn. 30. 40 FLECK YARNFLECK YARN Small amounts of fibres of either different colours or lustre or both are introduced into the yarn. This gives it a spotted and short streaky appearance 31. 41 SNARL YARNSNARL YARN It is same as loop yarns except that the looping yarn has high twist so that the Loop turns into a snarl 32. 42 LOOP YARNLOOP YARN A loop yarn consists of a core with an effect yarn wrapped around it and overfed so as to produce almost circular projections on its surface. As a general rule, four yarns are involved, of which two form the core or ground yarns. 33. 43 BOUCLE YARNBOUCLE YARN This is a compound yarn comprising a twisted core with an effect yarn combined with it so as to produce wavy projections on its surface. 34. 44 A spiral or corkscrew yarn is a plied yarn that displays a characteristic smooth spiraling of one component around the other. it can be produced relatively simply on a doubling frame or under the ring spinning system. 35. yarn name: boucle yarn type: spun twist direction: S amount of twist: low yarn appearance: texturized fiber content: 100% acrylic end uses: bulk yarn 36. yarn name: 4-ply yarn type: spun twist direction: S amount of twist: medium yarn appearance: carded woolen fiber content: 86% acrylic 10% wool 4% rayon end uses: blended yarn 37. yarn name: hand quilting thread yarn type: spun & filament twist direction: Z amount of twist: high yarn appearance: combed fiber content: 68% polyester (core) 32% cotton end uses: combination yarn 38. yarn name: textured yarn type: combination twist direction: Z amount of twist: medium yarn appearance: texturized fiber content: 52% acrylic 48% nylon end uses: blended yarn 39. yarn name: 4 ply with metallic yarn type: spun & monofilament twist direction: Z amount of twist: medium yarn appearance: combed fiber content: 97% mercerized cotton 3% metallic filament end uses: combination yarn 40. On the basis Of specialOn the basis Of special useuse Some special used yarns are:- 1- Sewing thread 2- Embroidery thread (25) 41. (8)