487 light a fire with one match
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How to Light a Campfire with One Match
Written by Paul Kirtley . Topics:Bushcraft Skills,Fire, Survival
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What if this was your last match? Learn how to make every one count. Photo: Amanda Quaine.
The ability to light a fire is an essential wilderness skill. Whether you are practicing your bushcraft skillsin the local woods or planning an expedition, fire-lighting skills should be at the top of your list.
Apart from the everyday comfort of having a campfire to cook over, to keep us warm in the evenings and
as a focal point for socialising in camp, fire is an important survival tool.
Successful fire-lighting gives a boost to morale and can be an important phsychological factor in survival
situations. Fire is an effective and reliable way of making water safe to drink and for signalling. Fire
makes food safe to eat and wards off wild animals. It keeps us warm and helps us dry wet clothing.
There are many ways to light a fire but the humble match is often overlooked in favour of more
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impressive skills such as bow-drill or hand-drill or the commonly carried Swedish Firesteel (a.k.a
Fireflash or Ferro Rod). People take matches for granted yet there are still a few subtleties to master and
skills to finesse, if you want to get the most out of them.
Besides, practicing the methods in this article will help sharpen up your fire-lighting skills in general.
Preparation is Key
Preparation is a vital aspect of successful fire-lighting. Success is largely determined by what you dobefore you strike a match. Put all the building blocks of success in place first.
For your kindling, collect small, thin sticks that are dead and dry. The best are either still attached to a
tree or hung up in one. Avoid collecting sticks from the ground. You are looking for matchstick thickness
sticks. They should break cleanly with a crisp and definite click.
The best small sticks for kindling are from woods that contain resin or oil that is flammable. In the
northern temperate zone and in the arctic forests the best kindling comes from coniferous trees species
such as pine (Pinus), spruce (Picea), fir (Abies) and hemlock (Tsuga) but not larch (Larix). From the
deciduous trees the birches (Betula) provide the best kindling.
A further advantage to the evergreen species mentioned above is that they often have dead branches low
down on their trunk. There is so little light reaching these branches that the tree doesnt waste its
energy in maintaining them. This provides a ready supply of dry kindling that is also protected from rain
and snow by the branches above. You can easily collect plenty of small dry sticks in a short amount of
time.
Search for dead, dry sticks for your kindling. You often find dead branches low down on evergreen conifers. Photo: Amanda Quaine.
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Left: Breaking off dead branches for kindling. Right: To ensure success, particularly in wet weather, collect at least an armful of kindling
like this. Photos: Amanda Quaine.
Break off the small matchstick-thin twigs from the branches you have collected. Create a bundle like this. Keep the twigs long. Photo:
Amanda Quaine.
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The best twigs from a deciduous tree are from Birch (Betula). Collect a bundle of the thinnest dead, dry twigs you can find. Photo:
Amanda Quaine.
After your initial kindling, you need some slightly larger fuel. Pencil-thickness is good for the next stage,
then finger thickness, then thumb thickness. The idea is for each grade of fuel to easily ignite from the
previous. You cant light a log from a match. There needs to be some intermediate sizes of fuel. All of
your fuel should be dead and dry. Make sure you collect and sort out your fuel before you begin to light
your fire.
Select an area for your campfire. Check there are no obvious tree roots you might ignite. Also check
above that there are no low-hanging branches you might ignite by accident. Even if this is not a risk, as a
general rule it is best not to damage tree foliage by creating a fire too close under their branches.
Obviously if you were in an emergency situation and you needed to use some trees for natural shelter
and have a fire nearby to keep you warm, then this is a different situation. Even in an emergency
situation, however, you dont want to be starting a forest fire around you.
In the area where you will have your campfire, clear the leaf litter and other dead foliage away until the
bare earth is exposed. If the ground is peat, you should not light a fire there. You must find a rocky area
(such as next to a stream) to light your fire. In very dry coniferous woods this is good practice too, as it is
easy to set fire to root systems. Generally it is good to have your fire within easy walking distance of a
water source. This will provide you with all the drinking water you need plus you will have water to
extinguish all remnants of your fire before you leave.
You should create a hearth of dead, dry sticks of around thumb thickness. On top of this you will create
your fire-lay. Creating a hearth has several advantages:
1. A hearth prevents your kindling from sitting directly on damp and/or cold ground;
2. A hearth (of dead, dry sticks), provides a ready source of fuel at the centre of your fire;
3. The gaps in the hearth allow air (in particular, oxygen) to be drawn into the base of the fire.
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Clear an area for your campfire and lay down a hearth of dry, dead wood. Photo: Amanda Quaine.
Now that you have prepared the area and the hearth, separate the bundle of kindling into two good
handfuls. Keep the kindling long. Each handful should look like the end of a miniature witchs broom.
Now think about which way the wind is blowing. Even if there is only a slight breeze, take note. Kneel
with your back to the wind and place your handfuls of kindling in a V-shape with the open side of the
V facing you.
Make sure you are kneeling with your knees and feet together. Otherwise there will be a wind-tunnel
between your legs (nothing to do with what you had for breakfast!) directed towards the base of your
fire, which could easily extinguish your match.
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Keep your kindling sticks long. You can organise and manoeuvre
them easily. Set two handfuls to cross over in the centre of your
hearth like this. Photo: Amanda Quaine.
Now You are Ready
Now you are prepared. You have collected plenty of dead, dry match-stick thick kindling from the most
suitable woods available. You have collected larger fuel that is also dead and dry. You have selected a
suitable area, prepared the ground and put down a hearth. You have arranged generous bunches of
kindling and positioned your body taking into consideration wind direction.
Now you can light your match.
But you must do this properly. By properly I mean in such a way as to minimise the risk of failure,
which is what this whole article is about. What if it is your last match? Always practice as if it were.
The first thing to note is that whatever type of container you are using to carry your matches, be mindful
to protect them from the elements whenever you open the container.
If you are using a regular box of matches, you can open it in two ways so that the match-heads show, or
so that the base of the match-sticks show. What if its raining? Or what if it has been raining and there
are big drops of water coming off the trees intermittently? What if snow is blowing off the trees? You
dont want a big drop of water or dollop of snow landing on your match-heads. Open the match-box so
the base of the sticks is showing.
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Open your matchbox carefully. Photo: Amanda Quaine.
A match-stick is easy to break if you apply pressure at right angles to its length. It is very hard to break if
you apply pressure along its length. Therefore, when you strike a matchyou should apply pressure
along its length, not across it.
With cold hands, and reduced dexterity, it is easy to apply too much force and break the match unless
you follow this rule. Again, if its your last match or even if it isnt but you make this mistake a few
times this simple mistake could cause you to descend into a much more serious situation.
As you strike the match, you should also support the head. Dont be afraid of burning your fingers. You
wont. Just remove your finger at the end of the strike.
Support the head of the match as you strike. You do not want to break the matchstick. Photo: Amanda Quaine.
On igniting the match, take it straight into cupped hands to protect the vulnerable flame. Wait for the
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stick to take from the match-head. Dont drop the matchbox. Not until the match-stick is alight should
you take the match to the kindling.
After the match is struck, cup your hands around the match. Keep hold of the match box. Photo: Amanda Quaine.
Do as much as possible to shelter your vulnerable flame: Cupping hands and kneeling with back to the wind. Photo: Amanda Quaine.
Once the match is burning well, carefully take your flame to the kindling. Remember to keep it protected.
This is a critical stage of the process. Remembering that heat rises, aim to light the kindling low
down. The best spot is in the centre of the V-notch you have created by overlapping the two bundles of
kindling. You have most fuel stacked up here and by lighting it at the bottom of this stack, you will create
a thermal column up through the middle of it.
Hold the match about 1cm (0.5 inches) below the material you are lighting. If you can light the kindling
in a couple of spots, all the better.
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A key moment: Once your match is burning well, carefully take your flame to the kindling. Photo: Amanda Quaine.
You should still be holding onto your box of matches. This is important. Apart from a standard match-box
not being waterproof and being at risk of becoming damp while in contact with the ground, it may also
become lost. In the excitement of getting your fire going you may forget about the box. You, or a
companion, may stand on it or kick leaves or other debris over it. Keep hold of the box!
Once the fire has begun to establish, you can quickly stow the box in a pocket.
The fire is alight and taking hold. Use this moment to quickly stow your matches. Note the graded fuel within reach, ready to add to the
fire next. Photo: Amanda Quaine.
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Put your matches away somehwere safe, not on the ground. Photo: Amanda Quaine.
Keeping your kindling long allows you to adjust your fire as it becomes established, if necessary. You may
need to re-position the kindling slightly or, if the nascent fire needs a little more oxygen you can lift the
uppermost bundle a little to allow more air into the fire. You should certainly experiment with this effect
when you are practicing as it can be quite dramatic.
Keeping your kindling long allows you to easily manouevre it into the flames if necessary. Photo: Amanda Quaine.
Once the flames are coming up through your kindling strongly, you can add more fuel. Dont put sticks on
one at a time. Grab a couple of handfuls and lay them on in a similar arrangement to your original fire
lay. Again, keeping the sticks long will allow you to manoeuvre the sticks and place them in the fire
without scorching your hands.
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As the flames take hold of the smaller sticks, add slightly larger fuel to your fire. Photo: Amanda Quaine
Your fire is now well established. If you need a larger fire then continue building with progressively larger fuel. But to boil a can of water
for example, you don't need to use fuel any bigger than finger thickness.
And thats it, your fire is established and you can now build it up further if necessary or use it to boil
some water for a lunchtime brew. The initial principles are the same in either case.
Remember the critical importance of preparation and material selection. Choose and prepare
your site well. Look after your matches and use them carefully. Take into consideration the
weather conditions wind, rain/snow. Then you wont go far wrong. And if you are thinking that all of
this seems like a bit of a faff, it actually doesnt take long to do it. Plus doing things properly the first
time normally takes less time in the long run.
If you have a friend who would find this article useful, please share it with them. Thanks!
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Bio Latest Posts
Related Articles on Paul Kirtleys Blog:
Bow Drill: The Keys to Success.
How to Build a Survival Kit on Bushcraft Principles.
Hypothermia and How to Avoid it.
Paul Kirtley
Paul Kirtley is a professional bushcraft instructor. He is passionate about nature and wilderness
travel. In addition to writing this blog Paul owns and runs Frontier Bushcraft, a wilderness
bushcraft school, offering bushcraft courses and wilderness expeditions.
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Posted on October 19, 2011
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