4.01 Pattern & Guide Sheet4.01 Pattern & Guide Sheet

Pattern Symbols

Layout Charts

Sewing Instructions

PatternPattern

Inside the pattern envelope you will find the pattern pieces.

Handle them carefully, they are made of tissue paper.

On each piece you will see terms and markings. These will help you construct your garment.

Grain LineGrain Line

Indicates the placement of pattern piece on the fabric grain. Grain line must be placed exactly parallel to the selvage.

Selvage is the fabric edge that will not ravel or fray. May be indicated by a straight line labeled grain line.

OR

Grain Line

Place on fold/Fold linePlace on fold/Fold line

Grain line symbol that required the solid line be placed on the fold of the fabric.

Usually seen at center front or back.

May also be represented by only a line with “place on fold” printed.

Place on fold

Dots, Squares, or TrianglesDots, Squares, or Triangles

Used to match fabric pieces, especially in areas requiring easing like sleeves.

May be with in garment piece to indicate placement of details like pockets or zippers.

NotchesNotches

Used for matching seams and joining garment pieces.

Should extend beyond the cutting line.

Garment

Cut

Double & Triple NotchesDouble & Triple Notches

Cut them as one long block

Garment

Cut

On multi-sized patterns the notches often appear as triangles. You should draw the other half before you cut the fabric.

Garment

Draw this half

Stitching lineStitching line

Broken line usually 5/8” from cutting line.Indicates where to stitch fabric pieces

together.

Seam allowance – distance between stitching line and cutting line.

Seam allowance

DartsDarts

Triangular folds of fabric used to control fullness.

Fold on the solid line, stitch on the broken lines.

Stitching line

Fold line

Buttonhole PlacementButtonhole Placement

Shows exact location and length of each buttonhole

Indicated by any of these 4 symbols

. .

. .

HemlineHemline

Indicates the depth of the hem (how much fabric to turn up for hem)

1 inch hem allowed

Fold on inner solid line

Center FrontCenter Front

Indicates the center front of garment.

Overlap

Center

front

Pocket PlacementPocket Placement

Indicates the placement of pockets within the garment

Adjustment linesAdjustment lines

Indicates where pattern can be lengthened or shortened.

Shorten or lengthen here

Additional InformationAdditional Information

Number of pieces to cut Pattern piece name/number or letter Size

Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

To Do:To Do:

Complete descriptions for Section 2 Pattern Symbols on Terms to Know page.

Complete Activity 67 Identify Pattern Symbols; refer to Clothing: Fashion, Fabric, Construction, pg. 474 & 475.

Guide SheetGuide Sheet

Gives you step-by-step information for cutting, marking, and sewing the fabric pieces together.

Two main sections of the guide sheet are cutting layouts and sewing instructions.

Also included are sketches and special information.

Design Sketches of

style included in pattern

Sketches of each pattern piece included

Special instructions for marking, alterations, &

symbols

Cutting Layouts based on view, fabric width, size, and fabric type.

Select your layout diagram based on the view your are making, your fabric width, fabric type, and size.

Circle the layout for easy reference.

Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Fabric GrainsFabric GrainsSelvage – two finished edges, do not ravel or fray

Lengthwise grain – runs in the same direction as the selvage, strongest threads.

Crosswise grain – runs across fabric from one selvage to the other, usually has slight stretch.

Bias – runs diagonally across the fabric. Has the most stretch.

Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Fabric FoldsFabric Folds

Lengthwise fold

Fold fabric in half lengthwise with right sides together.

Match selvages & ends

Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Crosswise Fold

Fold fabric in half crosswise with right sides together.

Fold should be from selvage to selvage, perpendicular to the selvages.

Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Center/Double Fold

Fold fabric twice along the lengthwise grain, right sides together.

Selvages should meet in the middle

Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Partial Fold

Fold fabric on the lengthwise grain, right sides together, only wide enough to fit the widest pattern piece.

Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book

Placement of pattern piecesPlacement of pattern pieces

Place the pieces on the fold or the largest pattern pieces on first.

Refer to pattern piece for number of fabric pieces to cut by each pattern.

Place all pattern pieces on fabric before pinning any to fabric.

Follow layout diagram exactly.

Read special instructions

Simplicity Pattern

Simplicity Pattern

Sewing instructionsSewing instructionsFollow the sequence exactly

Read the written directions.

Review the pictorial directions.

Refer to the special sewing information.

Simplicity Pattern

To Do:To Do:

Complete descriptions for Sections 1 & 4 of the Terms to know.

Complete Activity 8-2 Using the Instruction sheet; refer to Successful Sewing, Lesson 8.

Complete the practice VOCATS questions for 4.01

Work CitedWork Cited

Weber, Jeanette. Clothing Fashion, Fabrics, & Construction. New York: Glenco-McGraw Hill, 1997.

Liddell, Louise A. and Carolee S. Samuels, CFCS. Clothes & Your Appearance. Illinois: The Goodheart-Willcox Company, Inc. 1996.

Soto, Anne Marie. Simplicity’s Simply the Best Sewing Book. New York: Simplicity Pattern Company. 1999.