2gtokuukqpu - yarnandchai.com · ch2.in same st, 2dc, ch2, 2dc. hdc in each of the next 2 sts. sc...

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Purchase of this pattern includes permission to sell your finished items, with inclusion of the following line in your online listings:

Pattern by Rebecca Langford, www.littlemonkeyscrochet.com

Purchase of this pattern DOES NOT include use of any of my photos or reproduction of the pattern in any way, in full or in part, online or in

physical form, except for personal, private reference.

(C) Little Monkeys Crochet 2014 | All Rights ReservedThis pattern is protected by copyright. Distribution in any form is strictly prohibited.

Please be kind; direct any inquiries to [email protected].

WILDFLOWERSHOULDER BAG

(C) Little Monkeys Crochet 2015 | All Rights Reserved This pattern is protected by copyright. Distribution in any form is strictly prohibited.

Please be kind; direct any inquiries to l i t t lemonkeyscrochet@gmai l . com.

For Your Reference CAL Homepage: http://littlemonkeyscrochet.com/wildflower-shoulder-bag-cal-july-2015/ This pattern was originally presented as a 3-part Crochet-Along (CAL). The CAL homepage includes links to everything, including the supply list, tutorial videos, and all 3 parts with translations to UK Terms, Dutch, German, Norwegian, Danish, French, and Spanish. (Translations were provided by volunteers and have very limited support.)

Tutorial Videos: Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mHi_A413ms Part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NioKYhpeilg Part 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGdhyLeA1dk These videos work with, but are not a complete replacement for, the written pattern.

(C) Little Monkeys Crochet 2014 | All Rights ReservedThis pattern is protected by copyright. Distribution in any form is strictly prohibited.

Please be kind; direct any inquiries to [email protected].

WILDFLOWER SHOULDER BAG



PART 1: Wildflower Square Motifs Video Tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6mHi_A413ms

Notes: (1) You'll need 6 of these squares. (2) Beginning chains do not count as stitches. (3) Note that some of the instructions call for FLO (Front Loop Only) and BLO (Back Loop Only). This is crucial for building the center flower. (4) You will not turn at any point. (5) If your square is curving (i.e. looking more like a pinwheel), you probably need to better understand the anatomy of a stitch. Take a look at this helpful resource from Look At What I Made: Corners and the Elusive Hidden Stitch. To begin: Make a Magic Circle; CH2. Round 1: 12DC in magic circle. Join to first DC with a SL ST. (12) 1st Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. In same St, 2DC, CH2, SL ST. This is your first petal. (SL ST to next St. In same St, CH2, 2DC, CH2, SL ST to same St) around. SL ST to base of 1st CH2. (12 petals)



Round 2 (BLO - You’re now going to work around Round 1 again, this time working in the loop that you ignored during the first round of petals): SL ST to 1st back loop of Round 1. CH2. 2DC in same ST. 2 DC in each ST around. Join with a SL ST to first DC. (24) These screenshots from the tutorial video show the circle of back loops you'll be using (1st photo) and the completed round from the back (2nd photo):



2nd Round of Petals (FLO): CH2. DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST. (SL ST to next St, CH2, DC in same ST. In next ST, DC, CH2, SL ST) around. SL ST to base of 1st CH2. (12 petals) This is the completion of the flower center. We now move on to turning it into a square. Round 3: SL ST to 1st back loop of Round 2. CH2. In same ST, 2DC, CH2, 2DC. HDC in each of the next 2 STS. SC in next. HDC in each of the next 2 STS. (In next ST, 2DC, CH2, 2DC. HDC in each of the next 2 STS. SC in next. HDC in each of the next 2 STS.) Repeat ( ) 2 more times. Join to first DC with a SL ST.

Round 4: CH1. HDC evenly around the square, putting (2HDC, CH2, HDC*) in each corner chain space. Join to first HDC with a SL ST. (You'll end up with 12 HDC stitches per side.) *Don't miss that ONE HDC in the chain space. It's not a typo :) Round 5: CH1. HDC evenly around the square, putting (2HDC, CH2, HDC) in each corner chain space. Join to first HDC with a SL ST. (You'll end up with 15 HDC stitches per side.) Round 6: CH1. HDC evenly around the square, putting (2HDC, CH2, HDC) in each corner chain space. Join to first HDC with a SL ST. (You'll end up with 18 HDC stitches per side.) Round 7: CH1. SC evenly around the square, putting (SC, CH2, SC) in each corner chain space. Join to first SC with a SL ST. (You'll end up with 20 SC stitches per side.) Fasten off and weave in ends. (You can attach your buttons at this point, if you've chosen to embellish your flower centers.)



PART 2: Seaming the Squares & Building the Body Video Tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NioKYhpeilg

To seam the squares together, place two together, wrong sides touching, right (flower) sides exposed. Attach yarn (through both squares) in a CH2 corner from the final round of the squares. Working only in the two loops that are touching in the middle and ignoring the outside loops, SL ST down the edge of the square. Place your final stitch in the CH2 corner at the end of the line. (If you're still confused about which loops I'm talking about, it's easier to just show you -- so here's a screenshot from the tutorial video! You're seaming the pink loops, and ignoring the yellow ones.)

Seam all 6 squares together, but BEFORE you add the final seam that will make the squares into a circular shape, take a moment to weave in all your ends:



Then seam the last two together to form a circular (tube) shape, but DO NOT cut your yarn this time. You're going to need it ready to go for the next part, as we continue building the body of the purse.

CONTINUING THE BODY OF THE PURSE Notes: (1) From this point on, we will be working in a seamless round. Do not join unless instructed to do so. Round 1: CH1; SC in same ST and in each ST around, skipping over seams and corners. (120**) **The outer edge of each square has 20 single crochet stitches. You will be SCing into each one of these, and skipping over the corners and the seam between squares. This is how you will end up with 120SC (6 squares x 20 stitches = 120), which is important. So COUNT to make sure you're getting 20 SC per square! Rounds 2-3: SC in each ST around. (120) Round 4: (SC+DC in next ST, SK next ST) around. (120)



Rounds 5-14: Repeat Round 4. (120) Here's a screenshot from the tutorial video of what it should look like as you complete Round 14, just before you move on to Round 15:

Rounds 15-19: SC around. (120) Next we're going to attach the split rings, so have them handy. Round 20: SC in each of the next 4 STS. SC the first split ring over the next 7 STS (watch the video if you need help). SC in each of the next 26 STS. SL ST to the next ST, CH12, SL ST to the same ST (this is the loop for your button). SC in each of the next 26 STS. SC the second split ring over the next 7 STS. SC in each of the next 49 STS to finish out the round.



Round 21: SC around. When you get to the CH12 button loop, fold it down toward the inside of the bag and put 1 SC into the ST in which you built the CH12. (Do not SC around the loop, just ignore it.) Continue on to the end of the round. (120) To finish, SL ST into the first 3 STS of the next round. Fasten off and weave in ends.



PART 3: Base and Strap Video Tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGdhyLeA1dk

CONSTRUCTING THE BOTTOM OF PURSE Notes: (1) Make 2. We will be inserting a piece of plastic canvas between them (see image to the right). (2) You will join your rounds with a slip stitch to the first SC of the round. (3) The first SC of each round is always done in the same ST as the CH1. STEP 1: THE PATTERN (MAKE 2) To begin: With H hook (or whatever hook you've been using), CH36. Round 1: 3SC in 2nd CH from hook. SC in each of the next 33 CHs. 3SC in last CH, working around the tail to the other side. Coming over to the other side, SC in each of the next 33 CHs. Join with a SL ST to 1st SC. (72) Round 2: CH1 (does not count as a stitch, here or throughout). 2SC in same ST, 2SC in each of the next 2 STS. SC in each of the next 33 STS. 2SC in each of the next 3 STS. SC in each of the next 33 STS. Join with a SL ST to 1st SC. (78) Round 3: CH1. 2SC in same ST. SC in next ST. (2SC in next, SC in next) two times. SC in each of the next 33 STS. (2SC in next, SC in next) three times. SC in each of the next 33 STS. Join with a SL ST to 1st SC. (84) Round 4: CH1. SC in each of first 2 STS. 2 SC in next ST. (SC in each of next 2 STS, 2SC in next) two times. SC in each of the next 33 STS. (SC in each of next 2 STS, 2SC in next) three times. SC in each of the next 33 STS. Join with a SL ST to 1st SC. (90) Round 5: CH1. 2SC in same ST. SC in each of the next 3 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) two times. SC in each of the next 33 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 3 STS) three times. SC in each of the next 33 STS. Join with a SL ST to 1st SC. (96) Round 6: CH1. SC in each of first 4 STS. 2 SC in next ST. (SC in each of next 4 STS, 2SC in next) two times. SC in each of the next 33 STS. (SC in each of next 4 STS, 2SC in next) three times. SC in each of the next 33 STS. Join with a SL ST to 1st SC. (102) Round 7: CH1. 2SC in same ST. SC in each of the next 5 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) two times. SC in each of the next 33 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 5 STS) three times. SC in each of the



next 33 STS. Join with a SL ST to 1st SC. (108) Round 8: CH1. SC in each of first 6 STS. 2 SC in next ST. (SC in each of next 6 STS, 2SC in next) two times. SC in each of the next 33 STS. (SC in each of next 6 STS, 2SC in next) three times. SC in each of the next 33 STS. Join with a SL ST to 1st SC. (114) Round 9: CH1. 2SC in same ST. SC in each of the next 7 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) two times. SC in each of the next 33 STS. (2SC in next ST, SC in each of the next 7 STS) three times. SC in each of the next 33 STS. Join with a SL ST to 1st SC. (120) STOP! At this point, WITHOUT cutting off your yarn (because you still have another round to complete), you need to trace what you have so far onto a sheet of plastic canvas. You'll only need to do this once. See the video for a tutorial. When you've cut out the plastic canvas, continue to Round 10.

Round 10: CH1. SC in each of first 8 STS. 2 SC in next ST. (SC in each of next 8 STS, 2SC in next) two times. SC in each of the next 33 STS. (SC in each of next 8 STS, 2SC in next) three times. SC in each of the next 33 STS. Join with a SL ST to 1st SC. (126) Fasten off and weave in ends. STEP 2: SEWING THE BASES TOGETHER We now need to crochet together the two bases we've just made, with the plastic canvas in the middle. Place your base pieces, one on top of the other, so that they are lined up exactly the same. Use your seam to visualize this:



Then, insert your hook right at the seam, going through both pieces, and attach your yarn.

SC in the same stitch and continue to SC about halfway around, going through all 4 loops every time. When you get halfway, insert your plastic canvas.

Then, continue to SC around the rest of it, completely enclosing the plastic canvas inside. At the end of the round, join with a slip stitch to the first SC. Fasten off and weave in your ends. STEP 3: PREPPING THE BOTTOM OF THE BAG



We need to add 1 round of 126 SC to the bottom of the bag in order to help it match up perfectly with the base we just created. Set your base aside and lay your bag out in front of you upside-down, with the split rings on the outer edges. Insert your hook and attach your yarn in the right corner of the square all the way to the right (the one that lines up with a split ring), in the CH2 space from that square's final round.

SC in that same space. Then, SC in each of the SCs along the edge. There are 20 of them, so adding that to the one we put in the corner, we will get 21 SCs. Skip the square's left-side corner, and skip over the seam. Repeat the directions 5 more times by SCing into each square's right-side corner, and along the edge of 20, skipping the left-side corner and the seam. Join with a SL ST to the first SC of the round. STEP 4: ATTACHING THE BASE Find the centermost stitch on one of the ends of your base (you can eyeball it). With your hook still inserted in the last stitch you made from the previous round, put your hook through that center stitch as well. Yarn over and pull the yarn through both stitches.

Working through all 4 loops, SL ST around the bottom of the bag to attach the base to the body. When done, SL ST to the first ST of the round, fasten off and weave in your ends. (Do so on the inside of the bag, not the outside. Use a yarn needle to poke the tails through to the inside of the bag before weaving in.)



BASIC STRAP PATTERN The options for bag straps are endless. You can purchase a leather strap for a more sophisticated look, or you can search on Pinterest for a crocheted strap pattern that suits your personality. (I’ve even heard from many readers who have bought purses from their local GoodWill store just for the straps!) I'm going to provide you with a very basic and beginner-friendly strap pattern that will give your bag a casual style. Notes: (1) After you make your strap, you're going to be sewing it to a ring. You can sew it right to the rings on your bag, if you don't want it to be detachable. If you do want to make it detachable (and interchangeable), you can sew it to a pair of hooks with clasps. These are basically just rings with metal hooks attached that will hook and unhook to the rings on your bag. You can find them in the jewelry section of most craft stores. (2) SP = Spike Stitch. You'll complete an SC by inserting your hook one stitch lower than usual. Photos are provided below, or you can watch the tutorial video. THE PATTERN To begin: With H hook (or whatever hook you've been using), CH6. Row 1: SC in 2nd CH from hook and in each CH across. (5) Row 2: CH1, turn. SC across. (5) Rows 3-? Repeat Row 2 as many times as you wish to achieve preferred strap length. The strap in the photo, using Cotton-Ease and an H hook, is 90 rows long (the model is a petite 4'11). Edging, Round 1: CH1. SC evenly around the entire strap, putting 3SC in each corner. Join with a SL ST to the first SC of the round. (If you are unsure of where to put your SCs, please watch the tutorial video.) Edging, Round 2: SP one row down, around the entire 1st round of edging, putting 3SP in each corner. Join with a SL ST to the first SP of the round. (The yellow dots in the photo are where you need to insert your hook for the Spike Stitch, which is basically just a SC that stretches down a row.)



Fasten off but do not weave in ends. ATTACHING TO HARDWARE Slip one end through your chosen hardware (either the rings on your bag or a detachable ring and hook) and fold it over itself. Use the tail to sew it to itself, then weave in the tail securely. Repeat with the other end of the strap, being sure to fold it over at the same length you did the first side.

2gtokuukqpu - yarnandchai.com · ch2.in same st, 2dc, ch2, 2dc. hdc in each of the next 2 sts. sc...

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