2015 guidebook to membership

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A united community of competent climbers andhealthy climbing landscapes.

OUR V IS ION

OUR MISS ION

To support our shared passion for climbing andrespect for the places we climb.

If we could sit around a campfire swapping stories

with all 15,117 of you, we would. Did you know that our oldest member is 102 years old, and hes climbed with Ansel Adams? Or that two of our members are truckers and they meet up to climb together all over the

country? What about the three members who started a rappelling clinic inspired by Accidents in North American Mountaineering? This years Guidebook is a celebration of everything we collectively do.

In fact, every photo, story, and bit of art in this Guidebook has been donated by a fellow member... and proves that

when we come together we make great things happen.

Your taleswritten, photographed, and drawnremind

us all why we love the pursuit of the vertical.

Beyond the stories, we want to make sure you have

the resources to take full advantage of your AAC

membership, so you can find Club basics in the back

of this Guidebook. And for those of you who are already members, weve included the Map to Membership, also

created by an AACer, which illustrates events in your

area and lines out 100+ local discounts you have access

to around the country.

We bet you have a story too. Share it with us. Tell us

how youre making the climbing world a little bit better,

or send us your photos and artwork for a chance to be featured in next years Guidebook. Until then, happy climbing!

The [email protected] community of 15,117 members

2

a Salute to the AAC during the Fall Highball Craggin Classic in Bishop, CA.

AAC staff member Jeff Deikis

GUIDEBOOK TO MEMBERSHIP | 3

live without limits

www.adidasoutdoor.com

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08 MEMBERSHIP THROUGH THE LENSmember photos powered by B lack D iamond

18 MEMBER STORIESta les f rom our members

49 BETAinfo you need to know

GUIDE TO THE GUIDE

18 WRIT INGS ON THE WALLpostcards f rom a dream t r ip

20 OFF ROUTE AND ON TARGETa lesson in adventure

22 SAVE PARADISEa conservat ion grant goes to work

24 GETTING $#!T DONEa to i le t for the But termi lks

26 BUILDING COMMUNITY AT THE NEWnotes f rom the New R iver Gorge

28 GRAND GENERATIONSf r iendsh ips forged at the GTCR

30 THE GUNKS CAMPGROUNDfacts f rom the newest AAC lodg ing fac i l i t y

32 THE CRAGGIN CLASS ICSphotos f rom the events

34 A BELAY AROUND THE WORLDthoughts f rom the ICM

36 WOOD & STEELan in terv iew w i th ar t i s t Joe Iurato

38 LEARNING FROM TRAGEDYimprov ing knowledge o f rappe l l ing pract i ces

40 L IFEL INEa rescue in the Karakoram

42 THE DREAM ROOMthe Amer ican A lp ine C lub L ibrary

44 BIG R IGS TO B IG WALLSa gu ide to l i fe on the road

46 MEMORIES : GLEN DAWSONquotes f rom the C lub s o ldest member

6

a Steven Charles enjoys a rest day at Mammoth Hot Springs.

b AAC member Carl Zoch

A BELAY AROUND THE WORLDthoughts f rom the ICM

WOOD & STEELan in terv iew w i th ar t i s t Joe Iurato

LEARNING FROM TRAGEDYimprov ing knowledge o f rappe l l ing pract i ces

L IFEL INEa rescue in the Karakoram

THE DREAM ROOMthe Amer ican A lp ine C lub L ibrary

BIG R IGS TO B IG WALLSa gu ide to l i fe on the road

MEMORIES : GLEN DAWSONquotes f rom the C lub s o ldest member


a Mike Libecki in Queen Maud Land, Antarctica on the approach to Berthas Tower. b AAC member Cory Richards

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17-55 mm 1:28 IS USM

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M E M B E R S H I P T H R O U G H T H E L E N S

POWERED BY:

8

THIS IS YOUR CLUB.THESE ARE YOUR PHOTOS.

WE ARE THE AAC.


a Maria Rosario Toro warms up by biking to the crag on a cold November morning in Indian Creek, UT. AAC member Diego Saez

10

a Spotted by a wave on the Hawaii shore. b AAC member Ryan Moss

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17-55 mm 1:28 IS USM

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POWERED BY:


a Nothing beats sending an alpine big wall! Anne Gilbert Chase and Kate

Rutherford nerd out on top of Mt. Hooker in the Wind

River Range, WY. b AAC member Jason Thompson

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a [Top] Cathy Flanagan on a link-up of Traverse Ramond and Traverse Sans Retour (6b), Les Calanques, Provence, France. AAC member Joe Stock [Middle] Amber Deming uses a rest day to take in the canyons of the Grand Gulch in Cedar Mesa, UT. AAC member Zachary Winters [Bottom] Paul Hendricks, Dan Zomerlei, and Andrew Hickok strip down in pursuit of freedom, Cordillera Blanca, Peru. b AAC member Andrew Hickok

a Pat Kingsbury heads back to camp after a day of searching for new lines in snow, sleet, and rain, UT. b AAC member Jason Gebauer

a Amber Deming experiences a Johannesburg Mountain sunset after skiing early season snow on the Sahale Glacier in the North Cascades, WA. AAC member Zachary Winters

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a Matt Sedor takes a ride on The May Fly (5.12d)

on a sweltering summer evening, belayed by

Oregon Section Co-Chair Jesse Bernier, OR. b AAC

member Toby Butterfield

a [This Page] Benjamin L Eaton soaks up the morning scenery from his bivy at the top of the fifth pitch on Moonlight Buttress in Zion National Park, UT. AAC member Ken Klingler [Opposing Page, Top] Julia Geisler, Kim Hall, and Jewell Lund celebrate the end of a successful weekend of climbing in Castle Valley, UT.b AAC member Louis Arevalo [Opposing Page, Middle Left] The view from Tim Kemples sleeping bag while chasing sunsets, full moons, and sunrises. b AAC member Tim Kemple [Opposing Page, Middle Right] Gretchen lounging on her porch after a long day of climbing in Boulder Canyon, CO. b AAC member Leslie Hittmeier [Opposing Page, Bottom] Daniel Carnahan, Kevin Riley, and Eric Lutz on the couch at 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell, AR. b AAC member Lucas Marshall

ZOOM

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17-55 mm 1:28 IS USM

72MM


POWERED BY:

2015 GTM PHOTO CONTEST WINNER

16

The Dolomites. Thats all I could think about after I hung up the phone. It was November 2013, and my partner Mac and I had just been awarded a Live Your Dream grant. I met Mac in Germany the following summer, and we rented an Audi station wagon, our home for the next month. From there we made our way across the peaks of Northern Italy. It was the biggest, most awesome climbing trip of our lives.

WRITINGSON THE WALL

BY DOMINIC METCALF

A special thank you to Dominic and Mac for sending us a postcard almost every day from June 1327, 2014. We are so glad you had a great time!

AAC

a Kim Hall and Jewell Lund in Ruth Gorge, Denali National Park, AK. AAC member Ryan Jennings

20 | MEMBER STORIES

Breathing hard, I pulled up to the belay. Proud lead, I

told Kim as I wiped lichen out of my eyes. The corner pitch shed led was covered in dried moss, and the technical

granite stemming was reminiscent of a Slip N Slide.

I think I know where were supposed to be, Kim said,

pointing out some weathered tat two corner systems to

the right. I looked directly above us, where the corner

petered out to a discontinuous flake system. It looked

doable. Why not?

After being awarded a Live Your Dream grant in 2012, Kim

Hall and I set several goals in preparation for our dream

trip to the Bugaboos. We found ourselves off route with

regularity on Elephants Perch, in the Tetons, and among

our local Wasatch Mountains. Sometimes we chose to wander. More often than not, wed arrive at an opaque

decision point that the guidebook never mentioned. As

we deviated, we learned. And as we learned, we began to

relax into unknown terrain, finding ourselves enchanted

with the alpine. We walked away from our LYD trip with gratitude, growth, and more climbing dreams. Lots of

climbing, training, and dreaming eventually pointed us

toward the Alaska Range in 2014.

We prepared for months and trained hard for two phenomenal weeks in the Ruth Gorge. From getting

scrappy and scared on technical pitches on London Tower to a long and elegant line up Mt. Johnson, lots of

sunshine kept us busy. We flew out of the Alaska Range

with sunburned faces and sore muscles, content and ready to eat our body weight in baked goods in Talkeetna.

Looking forward to 2015, with new climbing goals in

Alaska and Central Asia, I cant help but pause and look

back with gratitude. The growth that weve experienced

starting with the 2012 LYD trip is so deeply rooted

in our community: from mentorship, inspiration, and encouragement from fellow climbers to the support of

grants such as the AAC McNeill-Nott Award and the Mugs

Stump Award. We hope to offer the same support and

encouragement to others in our community and are glad

to learn that, sometimes, off-route is exactly where we

want to be.

OFF ROUTE AND ON TARGET

BY JEWELL LUND


You know the feeling. You pull up to the parking area of your

favorite crag on a sunny weekend morning, only to find the

lot full. You turn back out onto the road, greeted by the sight

of cars parked bumper-to-bumper, with every patch of dirt

that could halfway pass as a parking spot already occupied.

After encountering this scenario in the Pendergrass-Murray

Recreational Preserve one too many times, the Red River Gorge

Climbers Coalition took action.

We settled on the perfect location for a new lota parcel of bottomland across Bald Rock Road from the turnoff to the

main PMRP parking lot. Already owned by the RRGCC, the spot

offered easy access to all of the PMRP crags, as well as the ever-

popular Motherlode and Chocolate Factory. Yet a soil analysis

revealed that, unless we wanted to continuously dump money

into the lots upkeep or watch it sink into the clay-and-silt ground

below, we would need to invest in the proper materials and

construction techniques.

Building a parking lot that would cost a projected $6,000 would

be a huge hit to the RRGCCs annual $10,000 maintenance

budget, so we turned to the AAC for some financial assistance.

Through the Cornerstone Conservation Grant, we received

$5,500 for a new parking area.

By layering Geo-mesh fabric, highway stone, and gravel, our

contractor created a hard-packed, well-drained lot that will

withstand traffic and weathering for years to come. The parking

area has provided easier access to crags in the PMRP, thus

decreasing maintenance costs the RRGCC frequently incurred

due to two-wheel drive vehicles attempting to maneuver the

AWD roads. The new lot has also drawn attention to the newly developed, lesser-known Flat Holler crags, helping to disperse

crowds across all the climbing areas the Red has to offer.

SAVE PARADISE(AND PUT UP A PARKING LOT)BY MIKE DRISKELL AND YASMEEN FOWLER

22 | MEMBER STORIES

a Joel Unema on Charlie (5.13b) at the Chocolate Factory. b AAC member Nathan Welton


BY JEFF DE IK IS

GETTING $#!T DONE

Indeed, the issue of human waste in the Buttermilks has been escalating rapidly, rising in tandem with the exponential growth in

the popularity of climbing during the past 15 years. With a fragile

high-desert environment, minimal yearly rainfall, and an ever-

increasing number of visitors, the ecosystem was literally retching

the stuff back out of the soil.

In 2012 the American Alpine Club and a new local advocacy

organizationthe Bishop Area Climbers Coalitionset out to

restart the dialog with the Inyo National Forest to address the lack

of facilities in the Buttermilks. Ample funding for the project had

accumulated over the years, the result of numerous local donations,

proceeds from the AACs Fall Highball Craggin Classic event, and a

grant from the Bardini Foundation. With funds in the bank and the

community calling for solutions and teamwork, the Inyo National

Forest, AAC, BACC, and the Access Fund began a three-year process

that resulted in the signing of a contract committed to building and

maintaining a permanent toilet in the Buttermilks.

a [This Page] Hern Crane of the U.S. Forest Service and Andrew Schurr of the Bishop Area Climbers Coalition put the finishing touches on the Buttermilk Toilet in Bishop, CA. [Opposing Page] Eastside volunteers lay out building materials during the construction of the Buttermilk toilet. b AAC staff member Jeff Deikis

Early on the morning of October 25th, 2014,

a group of local volunteers and Forest Service

staff gathered in the main parking area and, over

the following days, built the areas first latrine.

The minimalist wood layout interferes as little as possible with the stunning viewshed of the Eastern

Sierra. And the result has been an immediate and drastic improvement in the desert landscape: good

for both visitors to the Buttermilks and the fragile

ecosystems flora and fauna.

If you enjoy climbing in the Eastern Sierra, please consider donating five minutes of your time during the

climbing season to help maintain the Buttermilk Toilet facility. Email [email protected] for information on how to get involved.

I heard the sound of Amy gagging from around the boulder. Then came our dog Obi, staggering out and licking his lips, eyes drunk with satisfaction. Hoping Obi had gotten into our lunch, but suspecting worse, I walked over to investigate and found Amy standing over a partially chewed mound of human waste and toilet paper at the base of the Birthday Bouldera large granite block loaded with three-star problems, here in the middle of the iconic Buttermilks of Bishop, California. What the heck is wrong with people?


Weve all seen itan inexperienced belayer lets go of their brake

hand, or a party of 10 crowds at the base of the ultra-classic route

theyve chosen to toprope, directly through the chains. Over the

past three years working as a climbing instructor for New River

Mountain Guides and witnessing plenty of dangerous, unethical,

or inconsiderate practices at the crag, I developed the idea for Cliff

Notesa living study guide for climbers visiting the New River

Gorge. Every Friday night during the season, a certified guide from

NRMG joins the AAC campfire for an open discussion. Weve had

valuable conversations, and we believe that ambassadors who

care will be contagious in improving our climbing areas.

CLIFF NOTESBY JEFFREY HEARN

A small donation gets you a plate full of pancakes, bacon, and eggs.

Well throw in Folgers finest for a dollar. Bring your own utensils

and cups and follow the smell. The money goes to rebolting!

Each Sunday morning during the busy season in the New River

Gorge, I walked from one campsite to the next, collecting morning

fees and inviting campers to join us for Breakfast, Beta, and

Bolts. By the end of May, our weekly breakfast had become the

hub for climbers to meet up, grab a quick bite, spray about their

latest sends, and ask each other for beta. Around that time, Chris

Whisenhunt rebolted Rico Suave, a mega-classic 5.10a that nearly

everyone had been on, allowing us to show diners exactly where

their donations were going.

Throughout the season, we raised over $700. We plan to keep

the breakfast tradition going to support the New River Alliance of

Climbers rebolting efforts and AAC campground improvements.

Come join us for a good cause and some hearty grub!

BREAKFAST FOR BOLTSBY PAUL NELSON

a [Left] David Statler climbing Freaky Stylee (5.12a) at the New River Gorge, WV. b AAC member Dan Brayack [Right] Jessa Goebel and Matt Wilder out for a ride up the stellar NRG arte, Two Bag

Face, New River Gorge, WV. b AAC member Pat Goodman

It was dawn, light breaking along the Teton spine. My 18-year-old daughter, Anna, and I were roping up at the Upper Saddle before starting the Owen Spalding route on the Grand. As we reviewed our climbing signals, a guided group walked up. One of the guides said, Hey, arent you Anna?

Oh yeah, I remember you! she replied, finishing

her figure eight. We used to babysit your daughter

at the Climbers Ranch while you and your wife went climbing. That must have been about 10 years ago.

Like so many times before, our web of friends and family radiating from the Grand Teton Climbers Ranch began to vibrate. The Ranch has been the hub of our familys Rockies adventures for over 25 years. We have always felt the other residents were good

company and that the Ranch was a great place to

help grow our kids. We have countless family stories:

evenings of making music around the cooking area; foxes, bear, moose, elk, and owls appearing at the edge of camp; a porcupine quill in the toe; cooking with people from all over the world and giving extra food to dirtbag climbers (who we once were). And, almost always, on the way back to the Ranch, soaking tired feet in Cottonwood Creek.

Whether staff, climbers, hikers, wildlife watchers,

fisherman, Work Week workers, first-timers, or old-

timers, our extended family continues to grow every summer. Weve even had Ranch friends stop in for

a hot meal on our farm in Missouri when theyre traveling across the country. The memories run deep, and for our family, the connections made at the Climbers Ranch span families, adventures, decades, and miles.

GRAND GENERATIONSBY J IM GRACE

28 | MEMBER STORIES

a [Left] Long exposure at the Grand Teton Climbers Ranch. b AAC staff member Craig Hoffman [Right Top] Cousins Ada and Anna work out the kinks on a new fiddle tune after a day of hiking. AAC member Jim Grace [Right Middle] Getting the Ranch ready for peak season during Work Week 2012. AAC member Jim Grace [Right Bottom] Old friends meet and reunite on the Ranch: The Grace Family from Missouri, the Bayers from Connecticut, the Bowles from Washington. AAC member Jim Grace


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american

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westerns

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Wyoming

Chair Mic

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american

alpineclub

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Y AREA:

2 WASHE

R/ 2 DRY

ER UNITS

2 UTILITY

SINKS W

/ COUNT

ER

PAVILION

:

30' X 32' A

REA - AT

TACHED

TO BAT

HHOUSE

B. PARK

OFFICE

/ MANAG

ERS QUA

RTERS:

(FOOTING

S & FOUN

DATION

ONLY)

MANAGE

RS QUAR

TERS:

KITCHEN

BEDROO

M

LIVING RO

OM

BATHRO

OM

PARK OF

FICE:

COVERE

D PORCH

ENTRY

CHECK-I

N DESK

MAINTEN

ANCE/UT

ILITY ROO

M

C. CAMP

ING ARE

A COMFO

RT STATI

ON: (N.I.C

.)

WOMENS

AREA:

3 TOILET

S

2 SINKS

MENS AR

EA:

2 TOILET

1 URINAL

2 SINKS

SANITAR

Y SEWAG

E DESIGN

SPECIFIC

ATIONS

DAILY WA

STEWAT

ER FLOW

RATES:

APPLICA

TION RAT

E

PERC RA

TES OF

8-10 MIN

/INCH

PERC RA

TES OF

11-15 MI

N/INCH

= 0.90 GA

L / DAY /

SF

= 0.80 GA

L / DAY /

SF

WATER S

TORAGE

2 DAY ST

ORAGE T

ANK= 66

60 GAL.

CAMPGR

OUND SI

TE CRITE

RIA

50 TOTA

L CAMPS

ITES

24 WALK-

IN SITES

26 DRIVE

-IN SITES

(4 ADA)

PARKING

SPACES

:

SPACES

AT BATH

HOUSE /

PAVILION

AREA (4

ADA)

(10 OF TH

ESE FOR

WALK-IN

CAMP SIT

ES)

SPACES

AT DRIVE

-IN SITES

SPACES

FOR WAL

K-IN SITE

S

SPACES

AT COMF

ORT STA

TION36

2614

2

SITE LIGH

TING

SEPTIC A

REA # 1:

10 CAMP

SITES X 5

5 GPD PE

R SITE

LAUNDR

Y AND SH

OWERS

PARK MA

NAGER'S

QUARTE

RS

1020 TO

TAL GPD= 38

0 GAL. PE

R DAY

= 550 GA

L. PER DA

Y

= 90 GA

L. PER DA

Y

SEPTIC A

REA # 2:

40 CAMP

SITES X 1

0 GPD PE

R SITE

LIQUID FR

OM CLIVU

S PUMP

420 TO

TAL GPD= 40

0 GAL. PE

R DAY

= 20 GA

L. PER DA

Y

**HAND W

ASHING

ONLY**

(AREA TO

USE COM

POSTING

TOILETS

, NO SHO

WERS, N

O LAUND

RY)

500 DES

IGN CAP

ACITY TO

BE PROV

IDED

WATER S

UPPLY S

PECIFICA

TIONS

CHLORIN

E TREAT

MENT:

SEE DET

AIL 8 ON

SHEET U

-4 FOR CH

LORINE

MIX RAT

E.

SEE DET

AIL 6 ON

SHEET U

-5 FOR P

UMP STA

TION VEL

OCITY CA

LCULATI

ONS

SEE SHE

ET U-1 FO

R SEPTIC

AREA #1

DESIGN

CALCUL

ATIONS

AS WELL

AS PERC

AND DEE

P PIT TES

T DATA

WATER S

OURCE

EXISTING

ON SITE

WELL

= 10 GAL

LONS PE

R MIN

SEE SHE

ET U-3 FO

R SEPTIC

AREA #2

DESIGN

CALCUL

ATIONS

AS WELL

AS PERC

AND DEE

P PIT TES

T DATA

GRAPHIC

SCALE

( IN FEET

)

1 inch =

ft.

0

100

100

100

200

CAMPGROUND FACTS Q Opening Spring 2015 Q 20-minute walk to the Trapps Q $24/night per campsite for members Q $36/night for non-members Q 26 drive-up campsites Q 24 walk-in campsites Q 50 acres Q 6 showers Q Amenities will include fire ring, covered

pavilion, and more

Q Accommodates 60,000 visitors / year Q 5.4 miles to Rock & Snow Q 2 hours to New York City Q 4 hours to Boston

CLIMBING AND MORE IN THE GUNKS: Q Over 1,400 routes, 5.0 to 5.14 Q Over 500 boulder problems Q 7,000 acres in the Mohonk Preserve Q Campground is connected to 30 miles

of carriage roads

The Gunks is world-famous for its climbing, and infamous for its lack of great lodging options. This spring, after 10 years of AAC involvement, the Samuel F. Pryor III Shawangunk Gateway Campground will finally open. So come join us and get ready for hundreds of roof-filled routes high above the Hudson River Valley. Dont forget the tricams! Allie Levy

THE GUNKS CAMPGROUND

30 | MEMBER STORIES

Front Ran

ge

Chair Car

ol Kotche

k

american

alpineclub

.org/p/fro

ntrange

frontrang

e@america

nalpinec

lub.org

New Mex

ico

Chair Pat

Gioannin

i

american

alpineclub

.org/p/ne

wmexico

newmex

ico@ame

ricanalpin

eclub.org

Utah

Chair Bla

ke Summe

rs

american

alpineclub

.org/p/ut

ah

utah@am

ericanalp

ineclub.o

rg

Western S

lope

Chair Lee

Jenkins

american

alpineclub

.org/p/we

sternslop

e

westerns

lope@am

ericanalp

ineclub.o

rg

Wyoming

Chair Mic

ah Rush

american

alpineclub

.org/p/or

egon

oregon@

american

alpineclub

.org

FOOT TR

AIL

100%EXPA

NSION AR

EA

PARKING

AREA

(32 STALL

S+ 4 ADA

)BATHHO

USE AND

PAVILION

FOOTING

S AND

FOUNDA

TION (ON

LY)

ACCESS

ROAD HA

S BEEN A

LIGNED W

/ EXISTIN

G

LOGGING

ROAD FO

R MINIMI

ZED SITE

DISTURB

ANCE

DELINEA

TED

WETLAN

D AREA

WALK-IN

CAMPSIT

ES

WALK-IN

CAMPSIT

ES

CAMPSIT

ES WITH

PARKING

PARKING

FOR WAL

K-IN

CAMPSIT

ES

100' STRE

AM

SETBACK

PARKING

FOR

WALK-IN

CAMPSIT

ES

DELINEA

TED

WETLAN

D AREA

SEPTIC AR

EA #1

COMFOR

T STATIO

N

(N.I.C.)

EXISTING

WELL

PARK OF

FICE FOO

TINGS

AND FOU

NDATION

(ONLY)

SECURIT

Y GATE

ENTRANC

E SIGN

RECYCLI

NG CENTE

R

100%EXPA

NSION AR

EA

SEPTIC AR

EA #2

BIORETEN

TION

AREAS

LEGEND

1.SUR

VEY INFO

RMATION

IS FROM

DRAWIN

GS TITLE

D "SITE P

LAN FOR

SHAWAN

GUNK GA

TEWAY

CAMPGR

OUND", P

REPARE

D BY MED

ENBACH

& EGGER

S, DATE

D: JANUA

RY 21, 20

03.

SUPPLEM

ENTAL S

URVEY IN

FORMAT

ION INCL

UDING IN

DIVIDUA

L TREE L

OCATION

S AND CE

NTER

LINE OF

LOGGING

ROAD, W

ERE OBT

AINED BY

FIELD SU

RVEYS C

ONDUCT

ED BY PIP

C STAFF

FROM

APRIL 20

07 TO PR

ESENT.

2.CON

TRACTO

R SHALL

ENSURE

THAT AL

L REQUIR

ED PERM

ITS AND/O

R APPRO

VALS FOR

THE

WORK HA

VE BEEN

OBTAINE

D PRIOR

TO BEGIN

NING OF

CONSTR

UCTION.

THERE S

HALL BE

NO

ADDITIO

NAL COS

TS ADDE

D TO THE

CONTRA

CT IF CON

STRUCT

ION IS D

ELAYED I

N THE

PROCES

SING AND

OBTAINI

NG OF AL

L PERMIT

S.

3.ALL

SEDIMEN

TATION &

EROSION

CONTRO

L DEVICE

S SHALL

BE INSTA

LLED AND

FULLY

FUNCTIO

NAL PRI

OR TO CO

NSTRUC

TION ACT

IVITIES.

ALL ERO

SION CON

TROL DE

VICES SH

ALL BE

MAINTAIN

ED THRO

UGHOUT

THE DUR

ATION OF

THE CON

TRACT, A

S DEPICT

ED WITHIN

THE

DETAILS

, AND PE

R INSTR

UCTION

OF THE D

IRECTOR

'S REPRE

SENTATI

VE DURIN

G CONST

RUCTION

ACTIVITI

ES.

4.CLE

AR AND R

EMOVE O

NLY THO

SE EXIST

ING TRE

ES, SHRU

BS, AND V

EGETATI

ON WHICH

LIE

WITHIN TH

E IMMED

IATE CON

STRUCT

ION ARE

AS, AS RE

VIEWED A

ND APPR

OVED B

Y THE

DIRECTO

R'S REPR

ESENTA

TIVE. ALL

TREES (

OVER 6"

CALIPER

) MARKE

D FOR RE

MOVAL (U

SING

SURVEY

RIBBON

) BY CON

TRACTO

R SHALL

BE REVIE

WED AND

APPROV

ED BY DI

RECTOR

S

REPRES

ENTATIV

E. ALL T

REES, BR

USH, AN

D VEGET

ATION SL

ATED FO

R REMOV

AL SHAL

L BE

CHIPPED

AND REM

OVED OF

F-SITE BY

THE CON

TRACTO

R. ALL L

ARGE ST

ONES WI

LL BE

STOCKP

ILED FOR

FUTURE

USE.

5.AFTE

R CLEAR

ING AND

GRUBBIN

G, CONT

RACTOR

SHALL S

TRIP AND

REMOVE

ALL EXIS

TING

TOPSOIL

FROM AR

EAS SLA

TED TO

BE CUT O

R FILLED

, AND ST

OCKPILE

THIS MAT

ERIAL WH

ERE

SHOWN

ON THE P

LANS. A

LL STOC

KPILED M

ATERIAL

SHALL B

E TEMPO

RARILY S

TABILIZE

D BY

SEEDING

OR COV

ERING, W

HILE ALS

O BEING

SURROU

NDED BY

A SILT F

ENCE. D

IRECTOR

'S

REPRES

ENTATIV

E MUST A

PPROVE

SEED MI

X.

6.PRO

TECTION

OF EXIS

TING VEG

ETATION

TO REM

AIN SHA

LL REMA

IN ESSE

NTIAL TH

ROUGHO

UT

THE DUR

ATION OF

THE CON

TRACT.

THE CON

TRACTO

R SHALL

STRICTL

Y ADHER

E TO THE

FOLLOW

ING PRO

CEDURE

S TOWAR

DS PROT

ECTION

OF EXIST

ING TRE

ES AND T

HEIR ROO

T

SYSTEM

S:

A.ALL

EXISTING

VEGETA

TION SCH

EDULED

TO REM

AIN SHA

LL BE PR

OTECTE

D AS

ILLUSTR

ATED W

ITHIN THE

PLANS A

ND AS NO

TED BEL

OW.

B.ABS

OLUTELY

NO MEC

HANICAL

OPERAT

ION SHA

LL TAKE

PLACE O

UTSIDE

OF THE

CONSTR

UCTION

LIMITS U

NLESS A

UTHORIZ

ED BY TH

E DIREC

TOR'S RE

PRESEN

TATIVE.

C.THE

RE SHAL

L BE NO

STOCKP

ILING OF

TOPSOIL

, STORAG

E OF MAT

ERIALS O

R EQUIPM

ENT

OUTSIDE

THE CON

STRUCT

ION LIMI

TS THRO

UGHOUT

THE ENT

IRE DUR

ATION OF

THE

CONTRA

CT.

7.DIST

ANCE FR

OM LEAC

H FIELD T

O PROPE

RTY LINE

S SHOWN

ON SHE

ETS U-1

AND U-3.

8.WEL

L LOCAT

IONS ON

ADJOININ

G PROPE

RTIES EX

CEED D.

O.H. STA

NDARDS

. DISTAN

CES ARE

TO

DISTANT

TO BE S

HOWN ON

SITE PLA

N.

414

414

WALK-IN

SITES: (2

4)

DRIVE-IN

SITES: (2

6)

ACCESS

IBLE DRI

VE-IN SI

TES:

CAMPGR

OUND AC

CESS RO

AD (GRA

VEL)

PEDEST

RIAN ACC

ESS TRA

IL (NATU

RAL)

UTILITY P

OLE

PROPER

TY LINE

PROPOS

ED CONT

OURS

EXISTING

CONTOU

RS

TENT PA

D

PICNIC TA

BLE

SITE SIG

NAGE

PROPOS

ED BUILD

INGS

POTABLE

WATER L

OCATION

W

GENERA

L NOTES

:

SLOPED

BOULDE

R WALLS

A. BATH

HOUSE/P

AVILION:

(FOOTIN

GS & FOU

NDATION

ONLY)

CAMPGR

OUND ST

RUCTUR

ES

WOMEN'S

AREA:

3 TOILET

S

3 SINKS

2 SHOWE

RS

MEN'S AR

EA:

2 TOILET

S

1 URINAL

2 SINKS

2 SHOWE

RS

MECHAN

ICAL ROO

M:

HOT WAT

ER HEAT

ER

POTABLE

WATER T

REATME

NT SYST

EM

ADA UNI

SEX ACC

ESSIBLE

AREA:

2 TOILET

S

2 SINKS

2 SHOWE

RS

LAUNDR

Y AREA:

2 WASHE

R/ 2 DRY

ER UNITS

2 UTILITY

SINKS W

/ COUNT

ER

PAVILION

:

30' X 32' A

REA - AT

TACHED

TO BAT

HHOUSE

B. PARK

OFFICE

/ MANAG

ERS QUA

RTERS:

(FOOTING

S & FOUN

DATION

ONLY)

MANAGE

RS QUAR

TERS:

KITCHEN

BEDROO

M

LIVING RO

OM

BATHRO

OM

PARK OF

FICE:

COVERE

D PORCH

ENTRY

CHECK-I

N DESK

MAINTEN

ANCE/UT

ILITY ROO

M

C. CAMP

ING ARE

A COMFO

RT STATI

ON: (N.I.C

.)

WOMENS

AREA:

3 TOILET

S

2 SINKS

MENS AR

EA:

2 TOILET

1 URINAL

2 SINKS

SANITAR

Y SEWAG

E DESIGN

SPECIFIC

ATIONS

DAILY WA

STEWAT

ER FLOW

RATES:

APPLICA

TION RAT

E

PERC RA

TES OF

8-10 MIN

/INCH

PERC RA

TES OF

11-15 MI

N/INCH

= 0.90 GA

L / DAY /

SF

= 0.80 GA

L / DAY /

SF

WATER S

TORAGE

2 DAY ST

ORAGE T

ANK= 66

60 GAL.

CAMPGR

OUND SI

TE CRITE

RIA

50 TOTA

L CAMPS

ITES

24 WALK-

IN SITES

26 DRIVE

-IN SITES

(4 ADA)

PARKING

SPACES

:

SPACES

AT BATH

HOUSE /

PAVILION

AREA (4

ADA)

(10 OF TH

ESE FOR

WALK-IN

CAMP SIT

ES)

SPACES

AT DRIVE

-IN SITES

SPACES

FOR WAL

K-IN SITE

S

SPACES

AT COMF

ORT STA

TION36

2614

2

SITE LIGH

TING

SEPTIC A

REA # 1:

10 CAMP

SITES X 5

5 GPD PE

R SITE

LAUNDR

Y AND SH

OWERS

PARK MA

NAGER'S

QUARTE

RS

1020 TO

TAL GPD= 38

0 GAL. PE

R DAY

= 550 GA

L. PER DA

Y

= 90 GA

L. PER DA

Y

SEPTIC A

REA # 2:

40 CAMP

SITES X 1

0 GPD PE

R SITE

LIQUID FR

OM CLIVU

S PUMP

420 TO

TAL GPD= 40

0 GAL. PE

R DAY

= 20 GA

L. PER DA

Y

**HAND W

ASHING

ONLY**

(AREA TO

USE COM

POSTING

TOILETS

, NO SHO

WERS, N

O LAUND

RY)

500 DES

IGN CAP

ACITY TO

BE PROV

IDED

WATER S

UPPLY S

PECIFICA

TIONS

CHLORIN

E TREAT

MENT:

SEE DET

AIL 8 ON

SHEET U

-4 FOR CH

LORINE

MIX RAT

E.

SEE DET

AIL 6 ON

SHEET U

-5 FOR P

UMP STA

TION VEL

OCITY CA

LCULATI

ONS

SEE SHE

ET U-1 FO

R SEPTIC

AREA #1

DESIGN

CALCUL

ATIONS

AS WELL

AS PERC

AND DEE

P PIT TES

T DATA

WATER S

OURCE

EXISTING

ON SITE

WELL

= 10 GAL

LONS PE

R MIN

SEE SHE

ET U-3 FO

R SEPTIC

AREA #2

DESIGN

CALCUL

ATIONS

AS WELL

AS PERC

AND DEE

P PIT TES

T DATA

GRAPHIC

SCALE

( IN FEET

)

1 inch =

ft.

0

100

100

100

200


a [Top Left] Cheyne Lempe teaches clinic participants the art of self-rescue during the 2014 Fall Highball Craggin Classic in Bishop, CA. b AAC member Jeff Rueppel [Top Right] Climber pinches the pebbles on Pop Goes the Nubbin (5.10a), 2014 Smith Rock Craggin Classic, OR. b AAC member Luke Humphrey [Bottom] 2014 Salt Lake City Craggin Classic crew, UT. b AAC member Mike Schirf

presented by

Our popular climbing festivals combine all things AAC: cragging, socializing, clinics, stewardship, and more. Every year, AAC communities around the country host a number of Craggin Classics at popular climbing destinations. Find the one closest to you and put it on your calendar!

32 | MEMBER STORIES

a [Top] Volunteers head out for the annual Buttermilk Adopt-a-Crag, the stewardship aspect of the AACs Fall Highball Craggin Classic in Bishop, CA. b AAC member Blake McCord [Bottom] Zoe Strnad hucking for the finish hold during the dyno comp at the 2014 New River Gorge Craggin Classic, WV. b AAC member Gabe DeWitt

SALT LAKE CITY, UTAH, AUG. 28-30 < SMITH ROCK, OREGON, SEPT. 4-6 < NORTH CONWAY, NEW HAMPSHIRE, SEPT. 11-15 < NEW RIVER GORGE, WEST VIRGINIA, SEPT. 18-20 < DEVILS LAKE, WISCONSIN, OCT. 16-18 < SHELF ROAD, COLORADO, OCT. 31-NOV. 1 < BISHOP, CALIFORNIA, NOV. 6-8 < GUNKS,

NEW YORK, TBD FALL 2015 < HUECO ROCK RODEO, EL PASO, TEXAS, FEB. 13-15

2015 CRAGGIN CLASS IC SERIES


I struggled to keep my feet wedged inside the crack. Sweaty hands. Heavy breathing. Indian Creeks legendary splitters were proving even more challenging than I had imagined in the months leading up to the International Climbers Meet in 2008. Even though the brunt of my climbing experience had been on granite faces, I considered myself a decent crack climber, having climbed 5.11 cracks in Argentina and Canada. But in the Creek the long, sandstone splitters are unforgivingthere are few face holds, the rock crumbles as you try to smear, and attempting to lieback is nothing but a great way to pump out.

Luckily for me, things changed. On the second day of the meet, I met Kitty Calhoun. An accomplished mountaineer and talented crack climber, Kitty was one of several host climbers. And, for some unknown reason, she decided to take me under her wing for the remainder of the week.

Determined to help me improve my technique, Kitty patiently shared her knowledge and skills. She guided me through the world of crack climbing, taking me from route to route to practice on a variety of crack sizes and jamsfeet, toes, hands, fists, arms.

By the end of the week, Kittys efforts paid off. As we approached Slot

Machine (5.12a), a never-ending, tight-hands crack in the back of an acute dihedral, I even considered leading the route. I climbed smoothly, cruising one jam at a time. After 140 feet, I reached Kitty at the anchors, arms pumped and left knee bruised from jamming my body into the corner, a huge grin on my face.

Three years later I returned to the ICM, this time in Yosemite, where I found a few familiar faces from the Creek, including Jim Donini and George Lowe. In the Creek, simply watching them climb and hearing their stories had been an inspiration, but in 2011, I had the opportunity to share a rope with George up the East Buttress of El Cap. As we climbed, I learned tricks to move efficiently on long routes. But more

importantly, I realized how lucky I am to count him, and so many other ICM climbers, among my friends.

And in the fall of 2014, like an addict, I returned to the ICM in Yosemite once more. There, I fought my way up an off-width crack during a clinic

held by Cory Fleagle, and I had the chance to give back to the Club by teaching a wilderness first aid clinic.

The ICM is the perfect reminder that its never about the grade you climb, or even what routes you get onits all about having fun, learning, teaching, and making connections with good people from around the world on your way up.

A BELAYAROUND THE WORLDBY SAM CHU, PHOTOS BY ALTON RICHARDSON

34 | MEMBER STORIES

a [This Page, Top] The author demonstrates how to fashion a splint for a broken ankle while in the backcountry. [This Page, Bottom Left] Scott Dyer makes the final moves on the two-pitch Munginella (5.6). [This Page, Bottom Right] Simon Sandavol fist bumps photographer Alton Richardson after sending the Sacher-Cracker (5.10a), a notoriously hard crack. [Opposing Page] ICM participants approach the Sentinel Creek area during the first day of group cragging. b AAC member Alton Richardson

ICM 2014 , YOSEMITE


Q: Why woodcuts?

A: I have this wonderful photo of John Bachar on Midnight

Lightning, taken by Phil Bard. Its one of my most cherished

photos, as John is one of my climbing heroes. I drew it out as a 5

stencil, cut it, and sprayed it above the back door of my familys

restaurant, where there was this thin crack that ran to the roof. Thats where it began.

I did that again with the image of John cut out of cardboard and

placed him above a small vent grate, with a few spotters below

him. It created a scene and utilized more of the environment.

Ultimately, woodcuts were more sturdy than cardboard.

Q: Do you have a favorite climbing-inspired piece that youve done?

A: Not exactly. Each woodcut I create has its own story and personal connection, and then I do my best to place it in a way thats believable and correct. Whether its climbing a crack in a

cement wall, topping out on a window ledge, or dynoing to a

shadow, as long as theres truth in the sequenceone that leaves

the viewer (especially fellow climbers) anticipating what happens

nextthen Im happy.

Q: One of your pieces was featured in the 2014 American Alpine Journal. Have you ever used the AAJ to get inspiration or information for a climb?

A: I dipped into the AAC archives a lot when I was editor-in-

chief of Urban Climber Magazine. Truth be told, Im a boulderer through and through, but I take inspiration from all disciplines

of climbing. Im also fanatical about history, and the AAJ has been a great resource.

Q: Has climbing influenced how you view the world?

A: Absolutely. Climbers view nature differently, much the same

way a skateboarder views architecture differently. For us to

distinguish a sequence in a piece of rock, to stand at its base

and visualize a definite line to get from point A to point B, is

pretty remarkable. Its creativity. Through observation of details

and applying technique, a climb is formed. Most wouldnt get it,

but its there and we see it. I approach my street works with the same pair of glasses.

WOOD & STEELAN INTERVIEW WITH JOE IURATO

36 | MEMBER STORIES

Joe grew up with the constant rhythm

of his fathers printing press running

in the basement. But art was not the only major impression on his early

life15 years ago he fell in love

with climbing at the Gunks. Today

Joes wood-cut artwork, inspired

by climbing, has gained significant

attention from the art world.

ABOUT THE

ARTIST


38 | MEMBER STORIES

a Amy Futch rappels from the top of Table Rock, NC. AAC member Eric Cox

The news of a climbers death sends shock waves slamming

through family, friends, and the climbing community. A cycle of

denial and grief follows. Eventually most mourners arrive at a

level of acceptance. At that point, the opportunity emerges to

initiate a constructive response to tragedy.

In July 2012, Eric Metcalf, a 19-year-old climber making his

transition from gym to crag, died in a rappelling accident on

the Sentinel Buttress of Moores Wall, a popular trad area in North Carolina.

Several days after a moving memorial service, three

members of the AACs Southern Appalachian SectionDanny

McCracken, Aram Attarian, and myselfmet for burritos and

resolved to improve knowledge of rappelling practices in

hopes of reducing accidents. We debated whether to forward

a proposal to the Club office for consideration, or actively build

a program ourselves using AAC section resources.

By the time the last burrito wrapper had hit the trash can, our confidence in the power of grassroots initiatives had carried

the day. With the AACs support, we launched a series of local,

free clinics designed for experienced climbers. I served as

project manager, and Danny and Aram, both AMGA certified

instructors, taught rappelling tips and tricks along with

best practices. For content we turned to Know the Ropes:

Rappelling, an educational primer in the 2012 edition of

Accidents in North American Mountaineering.

After completing two pilot classes, we were confident that

the clinic was ready for prime time. By the end of 2014, with

help from a terrific team of AAC volunteers, our Southern

Appalachian Section had delivered over 25 clinics to climbers

throughout the Southeastern U.S. An additional five clinics

have been offered in other regions. Our commitment has been

to the entire climbing community, not just AAC members, and

more than 250 climbers have attended so far. Danny, Aram,

and I believe that our project serves as a solid example of

what motivation, initiative, and commitment of volunteers and

industry partners can accomplish. And in honor of Eric, we will continue to offer clinics and expand the program.

LEARNINGFROM TRAGEDY

BY DAVID THOENEN


My head was light as I gazed out over the endless spines of Karakoram giants, picking out K2, Broad Peak, and the

Gasherbrums scraping against the bluebird sky. We had just made the first ascent of Saser Kangri II, the second-

tallest unclimbed mountain in the world.

What incredible fortune: a team of friends, a virgin 7,500-meter peak, an absolutely perfect day. It was surreal.

The joy was short-lived. I could hardly breathe when Mark gave me a celebratory squeeze on the summit. I was

suffering a relapse of the sinus infection I had been fighting for the previous month and felt weak. We descended

to high camp, and I spent a sleepless night sitting in the doorway of the tent coughing and hacking up phlegm into

the snow.

The next day it took over 30 rappels to get from high camp to the South Shukpa Kunchang glacier, where we arrived

at our skis a couple hours after dark. We eventually found our camp on the glacier, and it was after midnight when

we went to bed. I was exhausted and still feeling poorly, but I didnt realize at the time just how serious my condition

would become.

At 3 a.m. I woke up coughing. The mucus had become so thick from dehydration that it was getting stuck in my

trachea, and I was choking on it. I knew I was in trouble so I woke Mark from his hard-earned sleep. After watching

one of my coughing and choking sessions he realized the severity of the situation. Mark woke Freddie, and they

made a call to a doctor friend who confirmed that I could choke to death on my own mucus. They decided to

evacuate.

Mark communicated our position and situation to Global Rescue, Rimo Expeditions in Leh, and his wife Teresa, who was also in Leh. They contacted the Indian government and started the complex process to obtain approval for an

Indian Air Force helicopter to carry out the evacuation. They had never landed a helicopter on this glacier before.

I was frightened, and it was hard not to panic each time I coughed and had to clear a new airway. Freddie tried

to calm me down. Were learning how to manage this situation as we go along, Steve. Youre going to be OK. He

and Mark built a chair in the snow so I could sit outside and be more comfortable. And our Indian team members Thinless, Dhan Singh, Tashi, Tshering, and Pemba would take turns lifting me up every time I started coughing to

open my diaphragm. They boiled tea for me, and after several hours of rehydration I finally coughed up the bulk of

the thick phlegm and was able to breathe more freely. But I was still sick, exhausted, and weak.

Around 4 p.m. two Indian Air Force helicopters appeared over the glacier and one landed on the pad Freddie had

stomped out in the snow. Thinless and Dahn Singh helped me to the chopper. Within an hour we had touched down

in Leh where Teresa accompanied me to the hospital.

Im very grateful for my friends and rescuers who saved my life. No matter how thoroughly you prepare, you can

never plan for everything, and as climbers there is always another lesson to learn.

LIFELINE BY STEVE SWENSON

a Steve Swenson rescued off the South Shukpa Kunchang glacier. Stills from The Old Breed, filmed, edited, and produced by AAC members.

40 | MEMBER STORIES

I have told more than one friend that the American Alpine Club Library is half the reason Im an AAC member, and Im not lying.

Theoretically, I go to the library for work reasonsI write about the outdoors and climbing regularly, and need to research routes, climbing areas, biographies, and history. But more often than not, I find two hours of

research stretching into four hours or more, as I get distracted by a book on the shelf, then another one, plop down on the floor, and several

minutes later, glance at my watch to see how late its gotten. A biography of Riccardo Cassin, a guidebook to the South Platte, or plaisir climbs in the Swiss Alps who knew Iowa State University had a mountaineering club in the 60s, let alone a journal? Ive never climbed in the Adirondacks, or Utahs West Desert, or the Dolomitesbut maybe

I should take a few minutes and thumb through these guidebooks.

As climbers, we know how to focus, or even fixate,

on single ideas: that 80-foot bolted route in our

backyard that we have wired except for the crux move, or the line we watch for years hoping this will be the year it comes in fat enough to climb in October, or the crimp on a boulder we might

be able to hang onto on our 50th try. We spend

years, decades, or lifetimes outside trying to do climbing. The library is the place I go to further try to understand climbing: why I do it, why its

different in different places, why other people

have always done it, how its changing, and where else in the world I should go to do it next year or the year after.

I have given the library the nickname The Dream Room, and as I research articles Im writing, I add to the never-ending list of places to see before I die: mountains a thousand miles or an ocean

away, crags on magic islands halfway around the world, traverses that have been done once or a thousand times, through-hikes that sound like a great weeklong or monthlong way to get away from everything.

There are dozens of reasons to be an AAC member, of course. But one of the most important, to me, is a room in the basement of the American Mountaineering Center in Golden, CO, holding the stories, records, photos, and maps of the collective thousands of years of international mountaineering experience weve amassed ever since we started walking into the big hills to see what was up there.

THE DREAM ROOMBY BRENDAN LEONARD

b AAC member Hilary Oliver

Think you spend a lot of time on the road? Eric Peterson, 46, and Matt Hopkins, 28, have you beat with a collective 225,000 miles under their belts just last year. These nomadic climbers have figured out how to make the most of getting paid to road trip in their semis.

Eric first connected with Matt after seeing his expedition to Aconcagua featured in a trucking magazine. Since then, Eric, who transports specialized, oversize equipment, and Matt, who hauls cattle, have met up in Colorado, Montana, and beyond to take some

time off the road and get out climbing. Allie Levy

BIG RIGSTO BIG WALLS

44 | MEMBER STORIES

a Matt Hopkins goes for the first ascent of Cattle Crates (M00). Brian Smith/High Mountain Photography for Overdrive Magazine

1. Dirtbagging, or trucking, is no excuse for poor hygiene. You can find showers for a few dollars

at any truck stop. You never know who you might meet, or when you might be sharing a ride to the airport with Conrad Anker.

2. Never get caught unprepared. Whether in your rig or on a climb, always bring a jug of water, some snacks, andof coursea Restop bag.

3. Always have an alternate mode of transportation, be it a mountain bike, a pair of rollerblades, a skateboard, or a donkey. If you break down, make sure you have a way out.

4. Be friendly. See a guy wearing Five Ten approach shoes and a Patagonia Nano Air, with a BD Hoodwire on his key chain? Strike up a conversationhe could be your next climbing partner.

5. If you miss your exit, dont slam on the brakes. Keep going. You never know what you might find around

the next bend.

ERIC AND MATT S T IPS FOR DIRTBAGGING LIKE A PRO


Glen Dawson made a name for himself when he and his team pioneered the east face of Mt. Whitney. The year: 1931.

Born in 1913, Glen has been a member of the AAC

since 1933, making him the oldest living member

of the Club. A WWII soldier in the Tenth Mountain

Division, lifetime antiquarian bookseller, publisher,

and mountaineer, Glen tells stories of the Good Old Days when climbing meant charting territory

completely unknown to man. The gear he used in his

circa-1930 climbs was comparable to that exhibited

in the Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering

Museum, from the days of hobnailed boots and hemp ropes. When the man talks, you listen, hoping

to catch a glimpse of The West that John Muir was

talking about. Kaitlin Sullivan

MEMORIES : GLEN DAWSON

Ansel Adams accompanied me on the 1929 High Trip to Tuolumne Meadows. He was my climbing partner, Jules Eichorns, piano teacher at the time. It was during the 1934 High Trip along Sawtooth Ridge that we [Dawson, Jack Riegelhuth, Ted Waller] named a peak after Adams: Mt. Ansel

Adams, about 12,000 feet.

19 13G D

46 | MEMBER STORIES

My first notable climb was the first ascent of the East Face of Mt. Whitney. Jules

Eichorn and I were 19 years old and just did what we were told, with Robert

Underhill and Norman Clyde leading. It only took us three-and-a-quarter

hours.

I accredit Francis Farquhar as the climber who had the greatest impact on me

as a young climber. He suggested that I apply for [AAC] membershipin those

days you had to apply. I applied and was accepted. The home of Francis and Marjory Farquhar was the place for regular gatherings of people interested in

climbing. There were refreshments or a meal. There was a book discussion or

a talk and informal questions and answers.

I was leader of the trip up the East Buttress of Mt. Whitney. It was 1937, and

it was my ideaI picked the participants. As I remember, I only made it once, though it is my favorite climb. But if I could revisit one climb, it would be the

Mt. Fuji trip in 1936. The trail had big stones. A lot of people, including school

children, were passing me, and I was passing them. I was by myself, and I

enjoyed the people. It was a noted peak, and I enjoyed the feeling it gave me.

Originally the goal of climbing was to get to the top of a certain point. Then

it was to scale difficult routes or make a traverse from one peak to another.

a [Top Left] Glen Dawson leaps a gorge at Stoney Point during a photo shoot for a Lipton Tea advertisement, 1937. Bill Rice (left) and Muir Dawson (right) look on. Howard Gate courtesy of the Sierra Club Angeles Chapter Archives [Top Right] Portrait of a teenage Glen Dawson taken by Ansel Adams. Courtesy of the Sierra Club Angeles Chapter Archives [Middle] Climbing party the day after first ascent of the East Face of Mt. Whitney, August 16, 1931. Left to Right: Jules Eichorn, Norman Clyde, Robert L. M. Underhill, Glen Dawson. Francis Farquhar courtesy of the Sierra Club Angeles Chapter Archives [Bottom] Members of the party who made the first ascent of the East Buttress route on Mt. Whitney, September 5, 1937. Front row, Left to Right: Dick Jones, Muir Dawson, Glen Dawson. Back row, Left to Right: Bob Brinton, Howard Koster. George Shochat courtesy of the Sierra Club Angeles Chapter Archives


Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner on Mt. McKinley.

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BETA < TABLE OF CONTENTS

2014 ANNUAL REPORTI hope youll agree that the Club today is more active, relevant, and present in your life. Our position is financially sound and poised to deliver even more value to

both members and the climbing community writ large. Thank you for being a part of this success. Phil Powers, AAC Chief Executive Officer

A FEW 2014 HIGHLIGHTS

Q $5.7MM Campaign for Climbers completed! Q Fundraising revenue +13% over 2013 Q Membership revenue +18% over 2013

Q Began construction on Gunks Campground Q Launched online Member Share network Q Deepened commitment to climbing education

Read the entire report at americanalpineclub.org/p/2014-annual-report.

2014 ANNUAL REPORT

MEMBERSHIP GREAT RANGES FELLOWSHIP

GET INVOLVED

DISCOUNTS

PUBLICAT IONS EXPLORE L IBRARYMUSEUM PROFILE LOCAL DISCOUNTS

RESCUE GRANTS

2014 GRANTS

DONORS

PARTNERS

CORPORATE PARTNERS

BOARD STAFF

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JO IN THE COMMUNITY

Together, we share a passion for climbing. When you join the AAC, youre part of a tribe thats making a big difference. We support each other with rescue

insurance, critical lodging facilities, conservation projects, advocacy, grants, discounts, and more.

MEMBERS ON AUTO-RENEW SAVE $10 PER YEAR.

The Great Ranges Fellowship brings our donor-members together with exclusive events and trips, timely insider communications, extra benefits, and

access to staff and officials like never before. At the AAC we value every giftno matter its size. In recognition of our most generous donors, weve created

this program.

Visit americanalpineclub.org/join or call 303-384-0110 and press 0.

REGULAR: $80/YEARMembers ages 29-65.

JUNIOR: $45/YEARMembers ages 28 and younger.

SENIOR: $55/YEARMembers ages 66 and older.

JOINT: $135/YEARFor two climbers: partners, spouses, residents of the same van, whatever. Both members get AAC benefits,

but we send only one set of publications and mailings to keep it eco-friendlyand wallet-friendly.

LIFETIME MEMBERSHIP LIFETIME $2,500 LIFETIME JOINT $4,000Show your dedication to the climbing community and support your fellow members and climbers for life.

Dues are permanently waived after this one-time payment. Benefits forever!

MEMBERSHIP

GREAT RANGES FELLOWSHIP

The Great Ranges Fellowship provides consistent benefits, recognition,

and communication to donors at various levels. We strive to be inclusive

of all climbing disciplines and recognize that all climbers have different

charitable interests and capacities of support. Most gifts qualify toward

annual membership in the GRF including those directed toward key

operating programs such as the American Alpine Journal, Accidents in North American Mountaineering, The American Alpine Club Library, the AAC Grand Teton Climbers Ranch, and AAC grant programs. The program does not

include Corporate Partners, Media Partners, or fiduciary programs such

as expedition support.

POWERED BY:

Great Ranges Fellowship member benefits include all regular AAC

member benefits plus:

Q VIP invitations to a variety of events in your area and around the nation Q Exclusive and timely communications regarding key Club issues Q Invitations to exclusive AAC climbing trips annually Q Regular annual AAC membership (beginning at your current exp. date)

TEEWINOT FELLOW $1,000 Q Exclusive Great Ranges Fellowship jacket Q Recognition in the American Alpine Journal Q Recognition in the Guidebook to Membership Q Subscription to Alpinist magazine Q Inclusion in the Fellowship Updates email notices

ROBSON FELLOW $2,500 Q All the benefits of Teewinot Fellow, plus: Q Invitation for two to VIP Reception at the Annual Benefit Dinner with

purchase of ticketsALPAMAYO FELLOW $5,000

Q All the benefits of Robson Fellow, plus: Q A special hardcover edition of the American Alpine Journal Q Two AAC gift memberships to share with your friends and family

EIGER FELLOW $10,000 Q All the benefits of Alpamayo Fellow, plus: Q Two additional (four total) invitations to VIP Reception at the Annual

Benefit Dinner with purchase of tickets

Q Two additional (four total) AAC gift memberships to share with your friends and family

Learn more at americanalpineclub.org/p/great-ranges-fellowship.

50 | BETA

GET INVOLVEDHOW TO GIVE

Your tax-deductible gift to the American Alpine Club helps members

and volunteers pursue the mission and core programs of the Club.

From conservation to competency, your donation will work to protect

the climbing experience for years to come. Options for giving include

a one-time gift, monthly giving program, matched gift, planned giving,

stock donation, combined federal campaign, or Great Ranges Fellowship

contribution.

Visit americanalpineclub.org/p/give or email us at [email protected] to give or learn about your preferred method of

support.

HOW TO VOLUNTEER

We are always looking for people to help out in a number of ways,

including volunteering at member parties, tabling at local climbing gyms,

sitting on a committee, or helping with larger regional events like the

Annual Benefit Dinner or Craggin Classic Series.

Contact your Regional Manager to get involved:

NORTHWEST REGIONEddie [email protected]

WESTERN REGIONJeff Deikis

[email protected]

ROCKIES & CENTRAL REGIONSAdam [email protected]

NORTHEAST & SOUTHEAST REGIONSLisa [email protected]

MEMBER SHARE

Your new profile is a place to connect with fellow climbers and meet up,

whether theyre near or far. You can now:

Q find a climbing partner Q find a couch to sleep on during your next climbing trip Q discover local discounts Q sync up your Mountain Project profile Q and much more!

To access Member Share, login to your profile at americanalpineclub.org/

login using the email address and password you created when joining.

REFERRALS

The more members we have, the better we can fulfill our missionso

please invite your friends and family to join our ranks. Not only will your

friends get access to AAC benefits when they sign up, but youll also earn

rewards for referring them.

Login to your profile at profile.americanalpineclub.org/invitations for more information and to access your personalized invites.

SOCIAL MEDIA

Facebook: facebook.com/AmericanAlpineClubTwitter: twitter.com/americanalpineInstagram: instagram.com/americanalpine


Q Abel Reels Q Adventure Medical Kits Q Airblaster Q Asana Q Barebones Q Beacon Audio Q Big Agnes Q BlueCosmo Satellite

Communications

Q Braven Q Bully Dog Q Burley Q Competitive Cyclist Q Crosstac

Q Deadfall Q DeFeet Q DeLorme Q Dogfunk Q Dublin Dog Q Endevr Q Evolv Q Fighter Design Q First Light USA Q Fox Head Q Gaerne Cycling Q Gnarly Q Gregory Packs Q GU Energy Gel

Q Icebreaker Q iClimb.com Q Insta-Bed Q Julbo Q Kammock Q Kelty Q Klean Kanteen Q Kurgo Q Light and Motion Q Minus33 Q Montrail Q Mountain Khakis Q NEMO Equipment Q Ninja Suit

Q Ortlieb Q Pivothead Q Rave Sports Q Red Wing Q RMU Q Rock-Slide Engineering Q Rockwell Q Selkbag Q Sharp End Publishing Q Sierra Designs Q Sierra Designs Q Slacklines Industries Q Slumberjack

Q Smith & Wesson Flashlights

Q Superfeet Q Suunto Q Swiftwick Q Teqtronix Q Top of the World Books Q Ultimate Direction Q Vigilante Q Y&Y Belay Goggles USA Q Zamberlan Q Zeal Optics

FEATURED MEMBER GEAR DISCOUNTS *

FEATURED ONLINE RETAILERS *

ADDIT IONAL DISCOUNTS *

MAGAZINES *

*Member discounts are subject to change. Discount percentages listed are approximations and may not apply to every product. Though we try to provide you with accurate information, we cannot guarantee you will receive the discount rates listed here or on our website.

**Restrictions may apply.

10-30% off**

PMS 647c c100 m56 y0 k23r0 g86 b149

90% BLACK

100% WHITE

20% off**

20% off 20% off 20% off

AAC ONLINE STORE

20% off 20% off, apparel only40% off 25% off

$15 off orders of $75+**$10 off when you sign up through the AAC

Spend $75+ and get a free webolette

$10 free when you sign up through the AAC

1 year, 4 issues, $29.95 1 year, 8 issues, $9.95 1 year,10 issues, $12.951 year, 9 issues, $9.99 & a free gift:

Classic Trails digital booklet

DISCOUNTSAccess via americanalpineclub.org/discounts.

52 | BETA

BETAPUBLICAT IONS

Print copies of the American Alpine Journal and Accidents in North American Mountaineering are included as part of your membership each summer. Digital editions of the books are available through your online profile.

Members may opt out of receiving print copies of AAC publications by

visiting their account settings at profile.americanalpineclub.org. To search any article ever published in the American Alpine Journal or Accidents, visit publications.americanalpineclub.org.

AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNALPublished annually since 1929, the American Alpine Journal is internationally renowned as the finest publication of its kindit documents the worlds

most significant climbs. The AAJ delivers feature stories and detailed route information covering the years most cutting-edge ascents, big new

routes, and unexplored potential.

ACCIDENTS IN NORTH AMERICAN MOUNTAINEERINGTo be more prepared for our adventures, the AAC publishes Accidents in North American Mountaineering. Our goal is to record the most notable climbing accidents of the year and analyze what went wrong. We hope

this service helps you learn from the mistakes of others, come home

safely, and climb again tomorrow.

EXPLORE

Explore is a community resource that shares the AACs special and digital

collections online. For more than a century, the Club has collected letters,

diaries, photographs, gear, and other material that give vital and unique

information about our communitys history and culture. Until recently these archives could only be seen by visiting the AAC in Golden, CO.

Today you can access thousands of artifactsand the stories behind themonline.

Check it out at explore.americanalpineclub.org and please consider contributing your own digital resources to our growing collection.

L IBRARY

The Henry S. Hall Jr. American Alpine Club Library, located in Golden, CO,

provides you with all the information you could ever want on mountain

culture and climbing routes. Our staff and volunteers are happy to assist

with research and trip planning. Our collection of over 50,000 books and

videos is always growing.

Q Bookmail: AAC members can borrow up to 10 books and five videos at a time for 28 days. Books may be checked out online and sent anywhere in the U.S. You only pay for return shipping.

Q Use our online Guidebook Finder to check out a guidebook before your next trip.

To find a specific book, visit booksearch.americanalpineclub.org.

MUSEUM

A joint venture of the American Alpine Club and Colorado Mountain

Club, the Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum in

Golden, CO, is the only museum in the U.S. dedicated exclusively to

mountaineering and rock climbing. The museum hosts rotating exhibits

and showcases a scale model of Mt. Everest, the ice axe Pete Schoening

used to save five falling ice climbers on K2 in 1953, and equipment from

the first American ascent of Mt. Everest. Stop by to browse at your leisure,

or join us for one of our monthly happy hours.

For more information, visit mountaineeringmuseum.org.

PROFILE

By visiting your online profile at profile.americanalpineclub.org, you can:

Q find AAC events in your area Q access all your benefits Q invite your friends to join the Club and score free swag Q donate to the Club Q access Member Share to find climbing partners and share beta Q update your account settings

LOCAL DISCOUNTS

Additional discounts on gear, lodging, climbing gyms, and guide services

vary by region. To view your local discounts, visit americanalpineclub.org/

discounts.


RESCUE

AAC members are automatically eligible for $10,000 of total rescue

benefits. Step past the trailhead and youre covered for any human-

powered, land-based activity.

TRAILHEAD RESCUE Q $5,000 global coverage Q No elevation restriction Q To use the Trailhead Rescue service, members

must call Global Rescue at (617) 459-4200 as soon as possible during an emergency

DOMESTIC RESCUE BENEFIT Q $5,000 reimbursement for out-of-pocket rescue expenses within the

U.S. onlyCanada and Mexico excluded

Q File a claim within 30 days of evacuation by emailing [email protected] or calling (303) 384-0110. Reimbursement is subject to verification and approval.

RESCUES IN 2014In 2014, 24 members were rescued thanks to the Trailhead Rescue

Benefit, and three members received reimbursement from the Domestic

Rescue Benefit.

UPGRADEAAC members may upgrade to a full Global Rescue membership at a 5%

discount. Learn more at americanalpineclub.org/rescue.

GRANTS

Each year, the AAC gives over $100,000 toward climbing, conservation,

and research grants to help you realize your climbing dreams and protect

the places we love.

CLIMBING GRANTS

LIVE YOUR DREAM GRANTAll climbers have dreams. Let us help you live yours. The Live Your Dream

grant, powered by the North Face, is designed to help you, the everyday

adventurer, take your abilities to the next level. Receive $200$1,000 of

seed funding to jumpstart your next adventure.

LYMAN SPITZER CUTTING EDGE AWARD

The worlds most elite climbing grant, funding boundary-setting

expeditions equipped with only the bare essentials.

COPP-DASH INSPIRE AWARD

Designed for small teams that plan to document and share their ascents,

primarily on unclimbed objectives in distant ranges that require a high

level of skill and commitment.

ZACK MARTIN BREAKING BARRIERS GRANT

A dual-purpose grant that funds projects with a humanitarian primary

objective and a secondary objective involving climbing.

MCNEILL-NOTT AWARD

Funding amateurs exploring new routes or unclimbed peaks with small

and lightweight teams.

MOUNTAINEERING FELLOWSHIP GRANTFunding significant trips for inspired climbers ages 25 and younger.

CONSERVATION GRANTS

CORNERSTONE CONSERVATION GRANT

Funding infrastructure that protects and conserves climbing areas in the

United States.

SCOTT FISHER-LARA KELLOGG MEMORIAL CONSERVATION GRANTS

Funding expeditions that support and improve the health of mountain

environments and habitats.

RESEARCH GRANTS

The AACs Research Committee administers funds from the Arthur K.

Gilkey Memorial Research Fund and Bedayn Research Fund to support scientific research projects that align with AAC values and charter.

For more about each grant, including application deadlines and funds

available, visit americanalpineclub.org/grants.

RESCUE / GRANTS

54 | BETA

2014 GRANTSLIVE YOUR DREAM GRANT

ROCKIESJeff Dobrinyi $800Travis Drake $850Sibylle Hechtel $750Angela Tomczik $600

SOUTHEASTBilly Brown $800Cindy Maloney $800Cole Casserly $612Dominic Metcalf $612Kenny House $612Matthew Morris $800Maya Zambrano-Lee $612Michael Dannhardt $612Sheila Reddy $1,612

CENTRALDan Brazil $500Eric Carter $300James Schroeder $500Ron Schilb $200Sarah Micheels $500

NORTHEASTDaniel Chen $700Brandon Martin $700Hanna Lucy $1,000Zeb Engberg $1,200Griffin Biedron $200Christopher Desir $700Stephen Scott $500

NORTHWESTAmmi Midstokke $250 Candi Cook $500Emily Reinsel $200Jenny Abegg $200Katherine Bill $250Ryan Cudo $350Shawna Cooke $350Szu-ting Yi $500Ian Bolliger $350Vanessa Burdick $400Kathryn Schlaich $400Alicia Imbody $250

WESTERNDavid Allfrey $1,000Brian Biancardi $500Allison Feinberg $500Laura Henn $500Michelle Kinny $500Paul Koubek $500Ryan Leary $500Brad Lipovsky $500McKenzie Long $500

Andrew Manton $500Peter McCarthy $500Quendallyn Mickelwait $500Myles Moser $1,000Lindsay Ryder $500

LYMAN SPITZER CUTTING EDGE AWARD

Kyle Dempster $3,000Christopher Wright $3,000Alan Rousseau $3,000Jared Vilhauer $3,000

COPP-DASH INSPIRE AWARD

Graham Zimmerman $4,000Austin Siadak $8,000Jessa Goebel $5,000Erik Bonnett $3,000

ZACH MARTINBREAKING BARRIERS GRANT

Sean ONeill $2,500

MCNEILL-NOTT AWARD

Sarah Fritz $1,000Quinn Brett $4,000

MOUNTAINERING FELLOWSHIP GRANT

FALLGarrett Genereux $800Kate Hale $600Matthew Morriss $800Natalie Afonina $800Alex Quitiquit $800Andrew Lam $800

SPRINGAndrew Fink $500Leland Krych $800David Fay $800Emily Matherly $400Keenan Waeschle $600 Kyle Pratt $800Matthew Lemke $500Neil Hansen $600Cole Kennedy $500John Collis $500

CORNERSTONE CONSERVATION GRANT

Salt Lake Climbers Alliance $5,500Kansas City Climbing Club $3,500Michigan University Outdoors Club $3,000Cottonwood Gulch Foundation $1,500Friends of Muir Valley $6,000North Carolina Outward Bound School $800Rocky Mountain Field Institute $2,200Wildlands Restoration Volunteers $1,000Boulder Climbers Coalition $1,500

SCOTT FISHER-LARA KELLOGGMEMORIAL CONSERVATION GRANT

Jenny Abegg $350Alison Criscitiello $625Ryan Vachon $625

RESEARCH GRANTS

Alexandra Giese $900Meagan Oldfather $300Will Petry $450Katreen Jones $900Kellen Nelson $900Leander Anderegg $800Elizabeth Balgord $300Steven Emerman $450


$10,000+EIGER FELLOWAnonymous (2)Yvon & Malinda

ChouinardKevin DuncanJim EdwardsCharles & Lisa

FleischmanTimothy ForbesClark GerhardtRocky HendersonTodd HoffmanLou KasischkeJames KennedyMark KroeseCraig McKibbenPeter MetcalfMark & Teresa RicheyCody J SmithThe Spitzer Family

FoundationSteven Swenson & Ann

DaltonDoug & Maggie WalkerLawerance True &

Linda Brown

$5,000-$9,999ALPAMAYO FELLOWAnsara Family FundDoug & Sandy BeallEdmund & Betsy Cabot

FoundationAlpenglow FoundationChadwick ChristineMaryclaire & Jim CollisYonsuk DerbyKit DesLauriersJames & Cheryl

DuckworthBruce FranksGerald GallwasMarilyn GeninattiSandy HillJeffrey HoffmanShelly MalkinJames MorrisseyVanessa OBrienWolf RiehleDavid RiggsCarey RobertsNaoe SakashitaSteve & Paula Mae

SchwartzWilliam & Barbra StrakaTheodore Streibert

Ronald UlrichFinn Wentworth

$2,500-$4,999ROBSON FELLOW Anonymous (2)Warren AdelmanRobert BehrensJames BradyRalph BurnsDavid BurtonBruce CarrollChristine CaseJeffrey CohenMadrone CoopwoodChristopher CroftJames CrosslinJoseph DavidsonScott DavisWilliam DavisPhilip DuffJesse DwyerGreg EngelmanPhilip ErardGary EvansRuth EwingCharlotte FoxJim FrushNeil GleichmanDavid GoeddelPeter Sam Addis & Gus

GoldmanJan GreenspanWayne & Cynthia GriffinSyed HaiderJeffrey HallRobert HallColleen HintonRichard E. Hoffman

M.D.Denny HoganThomas & Kathy

HornbeinRobert Hyman &

Deborah AtwoodThomas JansonMark KassnerTimothy KlostermeierJamie LoganGeorge Lowe IIIBrent ManningWeston MarkhamPaul MorrowHilaree ONiellDaniel PeckMatthew PruisJohn Reppy

Dan RosePaul RoseStewart SayahMark SchumacherStephen ScofieldHoward SeboldA.C. SherpaKapp SingerGeorge N. SmithGregory SmithPatricia SmithAlan SpielbergBob StrodeLewis SurdamJoshua SwidlerDavid ThoenenClint TreadwellPaul UnderwoodChris WarnerMark WilfordJames WilsonRobert WilsonJi WuEric Yollick

$1,000-$2,499TEEWINOT FELLOWAnonymous (2)Nicole Alger & Zachary

KarabellNathan AllenJon AndersonMelissa ArnotJames BalogCOL Christopher BatesVaclav BenesGordon A. Benner M.D.Brook BennettBob BergerLaura

2015 guidebook to membership

Documents