16.rough guides directions hong kong & macau

7/25/2019 16.Rough Guides Directions Hong Kong & Macau

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Rough Guide DIRECTIONS

ROUGHGUIDE

S

Hong Kong&Macau


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Hong Kong& Macau

DIRECTIONS

W R I T T E N A N D R E S E A R C H E D B Y

Jules Brown and David Leffman

NEW YORK LONDON DELHI

www.roughguides.com
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2

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CON

TEN

TS

Introduction 4

Ideas 9

The big six sights ............................10

Restaurants ......................................12

Day-trips ..........................................14

Colonial Macau .................................16

Temples ............................................18Festivals ...........................................20

Shopping ..........................................22

Food and drink .................................24

Health ...............................................26

Wealth ..............................................28

Hong Kong islands ............................30

Recreation ........................................32

Markets ............................................34Museums..........................................36

Bars and clubs ..................................38

Parks ................................................40

On the move .....................................42

Colonial Hong Kong .........................44

Traditional Hong Kong ......................46

Places 49

Hong Kong Island: Central and

the Peak .........................................51

Hong Kong Island: Mid-Levels and

Western ..........................................65

Hong Kong Island: Wan Chai,

Causeway Bay and Happy Valley ....74

Hong Kong Island: the southside and east coast ........................84

Kowloon: Tsim Sha Tsui ....................92

Kowloon: Yau Ma Tei and

Mong Kok .......................................104

The New Territories .........................109

Lantau ............................................121Other islands ..................................127

Macau ............................................133

Accommodation 147

Hostels, guesthouses and hotels ...... 149

Essentials 157

Arrival .............................................159

Information .....................................160

City transport ..................................160

Communications ............................. 162

Entertainment ................................. 163Directory .........................................166

Chronology 169

Language 173

small print & Index 185

Colour maps

Chapter Locator Map

Hong Kong

Hong Kong Island and Kowloon

Hong Kong Transit System

Contents


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4

Con t en t s I n t r oduc t i on

IN

TRODUCTION

Facing each other across

the Pearl River estuary,

Hong Kong and Macauoffer the visitor an excit-

ing yet easy entry into the

Chinese world. Colonies

of Britain and Portugal

respectively until they

were returned to mainland

China in the 1990s as Special Administrative Regions(SARs), today they seek to establish fresh identities for

themselves. While evidence of their colonial past lingers

in buildings, languages, food and hi-tech infrastructure,

the essentially Chinese heritage underpinning it all is

becoming increasingly apparent.

Introduction to

Hong Kongand Macau

Incense spirals, Man Mo Temple, Hollywood Road

Hong Kongs famously futuristicarchitecture has long set thestandard for similar cityscapesrearing up all over Asia, yet itssignature harbourside skylineis still the most strikingly

beautiful of its kind. Theresalso a broad mix of architecturalstyles here, encompassingCentrals soaring IFC2 tower,Mong Koks ramshackletown-housing, traditional clan


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IN

TROD

UCTIO

N

5

Approach to the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery, Sha Tin

villages in the New Territoriesand the centuries-old templeswhich are dotted around. Theaccompanying markets andstreetlife are compellinglyfrenetic, while the shopping though no longer a bargain

offers the chance to directlycompare a vast range of productssold everywhere from open-airstalls to hi-tech malls. HongKong is also one of the best placesin the world to eat Cantonesefood, while the territorysWestern influence means theres

a plentiful selection of bars andnightspots. Surprisingly, HongKongs outlying areas remainfairly undeveloped, with acountryside encompassingbeaches, rugged hills, wild

coastline and islands althoughnone of it especially remote where you can escape thepace and claustrophobia of thedowntown areas. Hong Kongsonly real downside is that theoverwhelming commercialism

and consumption make it hardto engage with the underlyingChinese culture thoughyou can glimpse it at HappyValleys horseraces, MongKoks Bird Market or simplyby watching early-morning taichi practitioners going through

their routines in Kowloon Park.Cultural barriers also drop atthe several annual Chinesefestivals sprinkling the calendar Chinese New Year, the DragonBoat Races and Cheung Chau

When to visit

Hong Kong and Macau are subtropical, which means generally humid

conditions through the year. From December to February is the coolest

period (16C), though usually dry; temperatures rise from March throughto May (23C) and rainfall increases; while from June until September the

weather is steaming hot and extremely wet (29C), often with fearsome

typhoons(from the Chinese tai fung big wind), whose storms affect

sea traffic. Tourist levels are pretty even year-round, though its best to

book in advance during Junes dragon boat races, and Chinese New Year

in January or February.


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IN

TRODUCTION

6


Bun Festival are the liveliest when even visitors will find it

hard not to become caught upin the action.

Smaller and more visuallyattractive than its neighbour,Macau is also ethnically Chinese,but while all the temples andfestivals of southern China arereproduced here, theyre not

the main reason for a visit.Instead, Macaus charm restson a substantial quantity of oldPortuguese churches, forts andstreets, which lend the placea laid-back, colonial-tropical

ambiance. Macaus tiny scale alsomeans you can see just about

everything on an easy day-tripfrom Hong Kong, while itssuperb food marries Portuguese,Chinese, Goan, Brazilian andAfrican inuences, all washeddown with Portuguese port andbrandy. As far as the Chineseare concerned, however, Macaus

main appeal is in its many casinos the only place on Chineseterritory where they are legal which draw in swarms ofpunters from Hong Kong andmainland China.

Trinketshop,WanChai

Fish market, Lantau


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IN

TROD

UCTIO

N


One Peking Road, Kowloon

Hong Kongand MacauAT A GLANCE

Tram, Wan Chai

New TerritoriesStudded with a handful of modern,

functional New Towns, the New

Territories also hide a few tradi-

tional settlements and a surprising

wealth of wild countryside, hiking

trails and beautiful scenery.

Hong Kong Island

From Centrals bars, restaurantsand waterfront skyscrapers, to

views from the Peak, smoky

temples, cruises around Aberdeen

harbour and relaxing on Shek O

beach, Hong Kong Island keeps

you entertained day and night.

KowloonShopping is king in Kowloon:

Nathan Roads stores stock the

latest model of every conceivable

electronic gadget, from mobile

phones to cameras and comput-

ers, while specialist markets trade

in jade, songbirds, goldfish and

clothes.


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IN

TRODUCTION


Man on bike, Tai O, Lantau

8

Boats, Cheung Chau harbour

Other islandsEasy walking trails to rocky

headlands and tiny beaches are

the main attractions of the small,laid-back islands of Cheung Chau,

Peng Chau and Lamma along

with some excellent restaurants

specializing in fresh seafood.

MacauAn easy day-trip from Hong Kong,

with an elegant quarter of oldPortuguese churches, squares and

houses, and plenty of restaurants

serving unique Macanese food

plus a host of crowded, noisy

casinos.

Largo do Senado, Macau

Lantau

Hong Kongs largest island offersplenty of outdoor escapes, along

with a Disneyland, the unusual

fishing village of Tai O and one

of the worlds largest Buddha

statues.


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Ideas

Con t en t s I d eas

Ideas


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So Paulo facadeMacaus most famous colonial Portuguese

building, though only the intricately carved

stonework shell survived a fire in 1835.

P.136 MACAU

Big Buddha at Po LinReligion writ large at this huge bronze

statue, which sits serenely between Lantaus

peaks.

P.126 LANTAU

Hong Kong and

Macau are superb

places to soak

up atmosphere

as you wander,

but theres also

a handful of key

sights which form

the core of most

tourist itineraries.

Whether its close-

ups of modern

architecture,

sweepingviews, iconic religious

monuments or simply

sunbathing on a sandy

beach, Hong Kong and

Macau have something to

offer at every turn.

10

Thebig

sixsig

hts


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Harbour at nightCentrals futuristic skyline is one of the

worlds great cityscapes, especially when lit

up at night.

P.54 HONG KONG ISLAND:CENTRAL AND THE PEAK

Star FerryThis evocative ride across Victoria Harbour

allows water-level views of shipping activity,

framed by Centrals hi-tech towers.

P.51 HONG KONG ISLAND:

CENTRAL AND THE PEAK

Shek O beachOne of the nicest stretches of sand in Hong

Kong, overlooked by a beautiful granite

headland.


THE SOUTH SIDE AND EAST

COAST

View from the PeakAlmost all of Hong Kong is visible from

Victoria Peak, with a staggering view north

across the harbour, Kowloon and into the

New Territories.



11


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Many of Hong

Kong and Macaus

restaurants have an

atmosphere every

bit as good as their

food, whether they

are formal Chinese

or Macanese

institutions, one

of the many

establishments specializing

in foreign cuisines, street

stalls with basic but

expertly cooked snacks, ortiny cafs whose modest

furnishings completely bely

their huge reputations.

12

Restaura

nts

Macanese restaurantsOne of the perks of a trip to Macau is the

chance to eat at one of the many restaurants

serving seafood in the Macanese manner

P.144 MACAU

The ChippyThe British may have relinquished Hong

Kong, but their culinary influence remains in

nostalgic servings of battered cod n chips

at The Chippy.


MID-LEVELS AND WESTERN


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Lin Heung Lau TeahouseThe Chinese describe good restaurants as

being hot and noisy, and you wont find a

better example than this legendary teahouse

in Sheung Wan.



Yung KeeSmart but not especially formal Cantonese

restaurant in Central, famous for its roast

meats especially the crispy-skinned goose.



Jumbo Floating RestaurantAs gaudy as a fairground, this shamelessly

pretentious, multi-level restaurant servesonly average food but provides an unforget-

table dining experience.



COAST

Lord Stowes BakeryThis humble, open-fronted bakery in

Macaus quiet Coloane Village produces

beautifully fragrant Portuguese baked

custard tarts.

P.145 MACAU

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If Hong Kongs

downtown areas

become too

claustrophobic,

there are plenty

of day-trips

possible, out to

where mountains,

rugged coastlines and

beaches predominate: you

might even come across

a few rare animals and

birds. Hong Kong also

boasts two theme parks,easily reached on public

transport.

14

Day-Tr

ips

DisneylandThe local mouse franchise, populated by a

familiar cast of cartoon characters; the hostof attractions includes a gripping roller-

coaster ride in the pitch dark.

P.123 LANTAU

BeachesBoth SARs sport excellent beaches includ-

ing Silvermine at Mui Wo on Hong Kongs

Lantau, and Macaus Hc S though

polluted water means that these are better

for sunbathing than swimming.

P.121 LANTAU

P.144 MACAU


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Pink dolphinsTake a boat out to look for these rare

creatures, of which only 180 survive in the

waters around Hong Kong.

P.124 LANTAU

Ocean ParkHong Kongs first theme park, complete with

pandas, marine aquarium and terrifying

rollercoaster.



COAST

Wetlands ParkThis spread of marshland in the New Territo-

ries, facing the Chinese mainland, is a stop-over for many species of migratory wildfowl.

P.117 THE NEW TERRITORIES

Boat trips

Taking a boat whether across Hong Kongharbour, on a tour out from Aberdeen, or

ferries to the outer islands or Macau gives

an insight into the maritime trade that built

Hong Kongs wealth.



P.85 HONG KONG ISLAND: THE

SOUTH SIDE AND EAST COASTP.127,129 &131 OTHER

ISLANDS

P.134 MACAU


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Macau has

a quarter of

European

architecture dating

back several

hundred years

to the heydey

of Portuguese

occupation,

comprising

fl agstoned

squares, stone

forts, graceful

churches, brightly paintedmilitary bases and bustling

markets, all standing in

strange contrast to the

largely Chinese population.

16

ColonialMacau

Largo do SenadoOld Macaus still-cobbled main square,

fronted on all sides by antique Portuguese-

style colonnaded shops, churches and

government buildings.

P.133 MACAU

So Francisco barracksNineteenth-century military headquarters,

whose classical exterior is painted an

unlikely violent pink.

P.142 MACAU


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Fortaleza do MonteA hilltop fort whose solid stone battlements

lined with bronze cannons were originally

built to fight off the Dutch, and now house a

historical museum.

P.137 MACAU

So DomingosWell-proportioned seventeenth-century

Baroque church painted in restrained pastel

colours, housing a famous statue of the

Virgin and Child.

P.136 MACAU

Rua da Felicidade

One of Macaus last nineteenth-centurystreets preserved intact, and lined with

wooden-shuttered shops and restaurants.

P.139 MACAU

Leal SenadoMacaus original Senate House, with a splen-

did wood-panelled Chamber still used by the

local government.

P.134 MACAU


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Temples are an

integral part of

Chinese life,

even in such

modern places

as Hong Kong

and Macau. A

wealth of Buddhist

and Taoist deities

are worshipped here

(sometimes side by side

in the same temple), and

though the buildings

themselves are mostlybuilt of stone along similar,

fairly spartan lines, theyre

usually lively places with

red and gold decorations,

a host of statues, huge

incense coils hanging from

the roof and forecourts

thick with fortune tellers.

18

Temp

les

Ten Thousand BuddhasMonastery

The most interesting of Hong Kongs few

Buddhist temples, with a host of grotesque

sculptures and thousands of Buddha

statuettes.


Tin Hau

There are temples all over Hong Kongdedicated to this local deity of fishermen

and sailors the best are at Stanley and

Clearwater Bay.


SOUTH SIDE AND EAST

COAST



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19


Kun IamAside from being an important shrine to the

Buddhist Goddess of Mercy, this temple in

Macau is where the first Sino-US treaty was

signed in 1844.

P.139 MACAU

Man MoBusy shrine in downtown Hong Kong

to the complementary Taoist gods

of literature and war; its smoky and

hung with slow-burning incense coils.


MID-LEVELS AND

WESTERN

Wong Tai SinHong Kongs most popular temple, its fore-

court crammed with people praying for luck

and having their fortunes told.


A-MaMacaus main complex

for worshipping the

Protector of Fisher-

men and Sailors, a

small slope crammed

with tiny temples and

boulders painted with

religious symbols.

P.140 MACAU


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The Chinese

lunar calendar

is peppered

with festivals,

some originating

thousands of

years ago. They

are always noisy,

busy events, and a hugely

sociable atmosphere

is guaranteed by the

crowds coming to watch

or participate, along with

the accompanying noise,colour and lights all of

which are said to chase

away bad luck and ensure

a successful event. The

biggest and best-known is

Chinese New Year (Spring

Festival), but smaller

events include a few

unique to the area.

20

Festiv

als

Mid-Autumn FestivalCelebrates both the harvest and a four-

teenth-century uprising by the Chinese

against their Mongol overlords, when heavy

moulded cakes stuffed with sweet bean

paste are eaten all over Hong Kong.

P.166 ESSENTIALS

Lantern FestivalThe two-week-long Chinese New Year cele-

brations end with decorative paper lantern

displays of all colours, shapes and sizes in

parks across the region.

P.165 ESSENTIALS


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Fireworks atChinese New YearHong Kong and Macau

usher in the Chinese New

Year with brilliantly intense,

deafening fireworks displays

Hong Kongs in particu-

lar is like spending forty

minutes in the middle of a

war zone.

P.165 ESSENTIALS

Dragon Boat RacesA Chinese tradition dating back over two

thousand years, when teams of narrow-

hulled, dragon-headed boats race to

commemorate the drowning of the famous

statesman Chu Yuen in the third century BC.

P.166 ESSENTIALS

Tai Chiu Bun FestivalA week-long extravaganza on Cheung Chau

island (in April or May), featuring outdoor

Chinese theatre, dragon dances, stilt walk-

ing and twenty-metre-high towers made of

steamed buns.

P.165 ESSENTIALS

21


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22

Shopp

ing

JewelleryThe Chinese appreciate gold and precious

stones, and locally made jewellery such asthat sold at Chow Tai Fook is of high

quality and moderate price.

P.99 KOWLOON: TSIM SHA TSUI

ClothesHong Kongs home-brand clothing labels are

excellent value, as are made-to-order suits;

fashion-wear by designer stores such as

Shanghai Tang is expensive but elegant.



Hong Kongs

markets, malls

and boutiques

provide one of

the worlds most

intense shopping

experiences. The

best deals are on

clothing, jewellery and

pirated gear, while the

sheer range of mobile

phones and electronic

goods is staggering

even if prices are notthat wonderful, theres

nowhere else in the world

you can directly compare

so many brands. Its also

a good place to look for

Chinese art, both ancient

and modern.


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Hi techElectronics stores in Tsim Sha Tsui and

Mong Kok offer an extraordinary range of

the latest photo gear, MP3 players, mobile

phones and computers.


P.104 KOWLOON: YAU MA TEIAND MONG KOK

Pirated gearHong Kong is a hotbed of

pirated DVDs and computer

software, often sold openly in

downtown stores.

P.104 KOWLOON:

YAU MA TEI

AND MONG

KOK

AntiquesShops specializing in Chinese antiques and

reproductions line Hollywood Road, in Hong

Kong Islands Mid-Levels.



23


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The Chinese

use eating and

drinking as a way

of cementing social

relationships,

meaning that meals

in Hong Kong

and Macau are

always memorable.

Cantonese is the

local Chinese

style, specializing

in fresh, lightly cooked

foods andyum chabreakfasts accompanied

by a pot of tea. Macanese

cooking blends Chinese

and colonial Portuguese

fl avours, and meals are

washed down with a

coffee or bottle of wine.

For those in a rush, there

are plenty of places to

enjoy a quick bowl of

soup.

24

Food

anddr

ink

Yum chaTry this classic Cantonese breakfast (also

known as dim sum) at theLuk Yuor Tao

Heungteahouses, where a host of small

sweet and savoury dumplings are accompa-nied by a pot of fragrant tea.




MacaneseRestaurants such as Fat Siu Lauprovide

mammoth portions of Macaus unique

dishes, including African Chicken, cod and

feijoada(bean and sausage stew).

P.144 MACAU


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25


CantoneseThe local Chinese cooking style demands

the freshest possible ingredients and excels

in teasing out their essential tastes and

textures through stir-frying, roasting and

steaming best experienced at restaurants

like Yung Kee.



Street foodSome of the tastiest Cantonese food is found

at stalls and canteens serving simple street

dishes such as wuntun noodles or fishball

soup try Hong Kongs Tsui Wahrestaurant.



VegetarianChinese cuisine has spawned a sophisti-

cated vegetarian offshoot, served in Buddhist

temples, Hong Kongs Light Vegetarianand

Macaus Macau Vegetarian Farm, featuring

imitation meat dishes made from gluten

and tofu.


P.145 MACAU


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Medicinal teaCalled bitter tea in Chinese, astringent

brews made from medicinal herbs designed

to fight off colds are sold from special urns

youll see them in Sheung Wan.

P.68 HONG KONG ISLAND: MID-

LEVELS AND WESTERN

JadeThis hard green stone is believed by the

Chinese to prevent ageing and decay; theres

even a Hong Kong market dedicated to it.

P.106 KOWLOON: YAU MA TEI

AND MONG KOK

SymbolsThe Chinese have all sorts of symbols

for luck, health and longevity, which are

prominently displayed on packaging, temples

(such as at Wong Tai Sin) and homes.


27


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Hong Kongs very

existence is based

on fi nance and

business, and

today some of the

citys most striking

modern architecture

houses the headquarters

of fi nancial institutions.

Traditionally too, wealth

has always been deemed

important; the Chinese

burn symbols of wealth to

enrich the afterlives of theirancestors at funerals and

festivals, and even have a

god of wealth.

28

Wealth

Bank of China towerChinas national bank building in Hong Kong

forms a striking, knife-like profile against

the sky even though this offends the laws

of feng shui.




31/208

29


God of WealthMany local businesses sport a small shrine

somewhere to Choi Sin, the God of Wealth,

to make him feel welcome and so attract his

patronage have a look in traditional busi-

nesses in Sheung Wan.


LEVELS AND WESTERN

Spirit offeringsLocal Chinese burn paper models of gold

bars, cars and even houses to ensure that

their ancestors are well cared for in the

afterlife you can see this at Hong Kongs

Pak Tai temple.

P.75 HONG KONG ISLAND: WAN

CHAI, CAUSEWAY BAY AND

HAPPY VALLEY

IFC2 towerHong Kongs tallest tower overlooks the

harbourfront, and is immensely impressive

when the top disappears into low cloud.



HSBC headquartersHong Kongs own bank is housed in an

amazing building that is actually raised off

the ground and partially hollow.




32/208


Hong Kongs

islands offer an

easy escape

from downtown

claustrophobia:

there are laid-back

fi shing villages and

markets on Cheung

Chau and Peng

Chau, while Lantau

has great hiking

trails, seascapes,

beaches, and even

a cable-car ridefrom Tung Chung

up to Po Lin Monastery on

Lantau Peak.

30

H

ongKo

ngislands

Peng ChauA tiny, horseshoe-shaped island with low-

key village streets and just one walking

track, culminating in fabulous views.

P.131 OTHER ISLANDS


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LantauHong Kongs largest, most rugged

island with isolated fishing villages,

steep peaks and the famous Po Lin

Buddhist Monastery.

P.121 LANTAU

LammaSmall, mostly rural island with quiet

accommodation, easy walks, and

renowned seafood restaurants.

P.127 OTHER ISLANDS

Cheung ChauOnce a thriving pirate community,

now better known for its laid-back

beach and busy market, harbour and

temples.

P.129 OTHER ISLANDS

31


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32

Recreation

Cantonese operaAlthough no longer a widespread form of

entertainment, traditional Cantonese opera

is still performed at some festivals, street

markets and occasionally at big venues.P.164 ESSENTIALS

CasinosMacau is the only place in China where

casinos are legal, and the citys many

gaming halls range from the glitzy to the

decidedly downmarket.

P.141 MACAU

One of the most

popular forms of

entertainment in

Hong Kong and

Macau is gambling,

either at one of

Macaus casinos,

or at horse races

in Hong Kong.

For more in the way

of local culture, theres

also a limited amount

of traditional Cantonese

opera and a hugedomestic fi lm industry,

while those after a bit of

exertion can head to Hong

Kongs wilds for rock-

climbing or hiking.


35/208


Horse racingJoin the crowds of eager, hard-bitten punters

for a night at Hong Kongs weekly horse races.



HAPPY VALLEY


Rock-climbingProbably the best spot for this fast-grow-

ing sport is Lion Rock in Hong Kongs New

Territories.


Hong Kong cinemaDespite its small size, Hong Kong has the

worlds third-largest film industry, withcinemas everywhere and major new

releases almost every week.

P.164 ESSENTIALS

Hiking trailsHong Kongs islands and New Territories

are covered in a network of hiking paths,

allowing access to some unexpectedly wild

coastlines and hills.

P.110 & 118 THE NEW

TERRITORIES

P.127131 OTHER ISLANDS

33


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Temple Street Night MarketHong Kongs most famous tourist market is a

good place to pick up a souvenir, see streetperformers, and have an inexpensive meal.


AND MONG KOK

Local markets are

some of the best

places to see the

Chinese going

about everyday life,

besides offering

the opportunity to

snap up a bargain. Temple

Street Night Market is

loaded with souvenirs,

while the Bird and Goldfi sh

markets are far more

traditional in feel, full of

elderly Chinese lookingfor a pet. If your stomach

is up to it, seafood and

produce markets are busy,

lively affairs, catering to the

demands of local cuisine

with only the freshest of

ingredients

34

Mark

ets

Jade MarketAll sorts of things, from small pendants to

bangles and figurines, are carved out of this

hard, semi-precious and in Chinese lore

youth-preserving stone.


AND MONG KOK


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Seafood MarketHead to the Aberdeen waterside to see the

daily catch that goes towards creating some

of Cantonese cuisines greatest dishes.


SOUTH SIDE AND EAST

COAST

Produce MarketWitness the Chinese seeking to satisfy their

demand for absolutely fresh ingredients,

whether vegetable or animal Sheung

Wans is one of the best.


LEVELS AND WESTERN

Bird MarketElderly Chinese men gather here to compare

their songbirds, buy elegant wooden cages,and just chat and stroll.


AND MONG KOK

Goldfish MarketThousands of bug-eyed goldfish are hung

outside shops in plastic bags the Chinese

buy them to attract wealth.


AND MONG KOK

35


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Hong Kong and

Macau have some

excellent museums

illustrating local

history and culture,

ranging from high-

quality collections

of Chinese art,

to reconstructions of

old streets, European

gun batteries, traditional

wooden boats and even

whole villages.

36

Museu

ms

Museum of Coastal DefenceNineteenth-century British gun emplace-

ments protecting the eastern end of Hong

Kong harbour, now a display of military

history.


SOUTH SIDE AND EAST

COAST


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Museu Martimo

Lively museum in Macau, with scores oflovingly built scale models of wooden fish-

ing vessels.

P.140 MACAU

Museum of HistoryFun recreation of Hong Kongs past, with

whole streets reconstructed amidst more

usual glass cases of historical artefacts.


Museum of ArtProvides a solid introduction to traditional

Chinese painting, calligraphy, pottery and

metalworking, with rotating exhibitions of

contemporary art.


37


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Whilst a night

on the town is

hardly a Chinese

institution, Hong

Kongs European

heritage means

that it enjoys a

solid nightlife

based around an

ever-changing core

of bars and clubs

on Hong Kong

Island and in Tsim Sha

Tsui, where you can drink,dance or listen to live

music from dusk till dawn.

38

Bars

andclubs

Old China HandThe premier refuge for hard-core drinkers

and seedy, embittered expats.



HAPPY VALLEY

Lan Kwai FongThe heart of Hong Kongs club and bar scene

a score of riotous dens provide booze and

music until the small hours.




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39


C BarTiny Lan Kwai Fong

bar, which makes up in

volume and atmosphere

what it lacks in size.

P.63 CENTRAL

AND THE

PEAK

Dinamoe HumMinuscule but lively jazz club, which often

hosts foreign bands.P.73 HONG KONG ISLAND: MID-

LEVELS AND WESTERN

Ned Kellys Last StandA Hong Kong institution, with live jazz and

hearty food.P.102 KOWLOON:TSIM SHA TSUI


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40

Pa

rks

Hong Kong ParkHilly parkland with outstanding aviary and

ubiquitous wedding groups.



Formal parks are

a feature of many

Chinese cities:

there are several

excellent open

spaces in both

Hong Kong and Macau,

from the paving and neat

fl ower beds of Kowloon

and Victoria parks,

to Hong Kong Parks

fantastic aviary and city

views, and Macaus wholly

traditional Jardim Lou LimIeoc, built in the classical

Chinese style.


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Kowloon Park

Oasis of paving, ponds, trees and cagedbirds in bustling Tsim Sha Tsui.

P.96 KOWLOON: TSIM SHA

TSUI

Victoria ParkThe best place in Hong Kong to watch

early-morning martial arts, or find a

patch of shade in the midday heat.


WAN CHAI, CAUSEWAYBAY AND HAPPY

VALLEY

Jardim Lou Lim IeocA traditional Chinese garden in Macau,

packed with trees, pavilions and

strangely shaped rocks.P.138 MACAU

41


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One of the

wonders of Hong

Kong is that in

such a crowded

and busy place,

the public transport

system works so

well. This includes

such archaic

vehicles as Hong

Kong Islands trams,

British-inspired double-

decker buses and 1950s-

style cross-harbour ferries,as well as the speedy and

hi-tech MTR underground

rail system.

42

On

themove

Double-decker busesHong Kongs British heritage is betrayed

in these buses, of most use for trips to the

countryside.P.161 ESSENTIALS

MTRHong Kongs efficient underground rail

system handles hundreds of thousands of

passengers daily.

P.161 ESSENTIALS


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TramsThese strangely anachronistic vehicles still

run for kilometres between the skyscrapers

lining Hong Kong Islands north shore.

P.161 ESSENTIALS

43

Peak Tram

Enjoy being hauled up through the forestcovering Victoria Peaks steep sides, on this

old-style funicular railway.



TaxisSo popular in downtown areas of Hong

Kong that theyre considered by many as an

extension of the public transport system.

P.162 ESSENTIALS

FerriesAn essential part of any visit to Hong Kong

and Macau is the chance to view them from

the water.

P.162 ESSENTIALS


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Hong Kongs

colonial heritage

is far less visible

than Macaus, but

a few quaint (and

baffl ing) traditions

such as afternoon

tea and fi ring the

Noon Day Gun

survive, along with

several period

buildings and

monuments that

have somehowavoided demolition

and now sit

isolated amongst the

citys futuristic high-rises.

44

Co

lonialH

ongKong

ClocktowerAll that remains of the former trans-continental

train station, where passengers from Europe

once disembarked.


Flagstaff HouseFine Victorian building now housing a collec-

tion of Chinese teaware.




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Although the

pervading futuristic

architecture masks

what little of

traditional Hong

Kong remains, the

older days linger

in the way people

act, what they eat

and (occasionally)

in the layout of a

few villages and

hamlets dotted

across the SAR.

46

TraditionalH

ongKong

Old streetsLanes such as Pottinger Street still retaintheir original steep flights of stone steps.


LEVELS AND WESTERN

Reading the futureAt temples such as Wong Tai Sin youll see

people shaking canisters of fortune sticks

to see what the future might hold for them.



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47


Tsang Tai Uk

This fortress-like village was built in the1870s, and retains many traditional features,

despite being hemmed in by modern towers.


Traditional shopsBusinesses in Sheung Wan still specialize

in items such as birds nest, sea slug and

ginseng.


LEVELS AND WESTERN

Tai OFishing village on Lantau with half the

houses built on stilts over the water.

P.125 LANTAU


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51/208

Places

Con t en t s P l a ces

Places


52/208



53/208

PLACES

51


HongKong

Island:Centrala

ndthePeak

Hong Kong Island:

Central and the PeakSet on the north side of Hong Kong Island, Central is

where the city coalesced after the territory was seized

by the British in 1841. Businesses blossomed between

enormous Victoria Harbour and the steep lower slopes

of the Peak, a narrow strip which today has become

the worlds most expensive piece of real estate. With

so little room, the mass of concrete and glass has had

no choice but to evolve upwards, creating a backdrop

of competitively tall towers interconnected by a web of

elevated walkways.

Centrals atmosphere is contemporary and upmarket:

the SARs banks all have their headquarters here, shop-

ping opportunities are for high-end clothing and jewellery

labels, and many of its clubs, bars and restaurants are

important places to be seen. For a contrast to this

otherwise overwhelming modernity, you can seek out

a few colonial buildings or unwind in Hong Kong Park,

whilst a trip up the Peak offers superlative views of the

city and a real break from street-level claustrophobia.

The Star FerryDaily 6.30am11.30pm, every612 min. Lower deck $1.70, air-conditioned upper deck $2.20. Byfar the best way to arrive inCentral is by riding the Star

Ferry over from Tsim ShaTsui: the sight of Centralsskyscrapers, framed by the hillsand looming up as the ferrymakes its seven-minute crossingof busy Victoria Harbour, is one

T H E S TA R F E R RY


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PLACES

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GILM

ANSTREET

DAG

UILA

RSTRE

ET

CENTR

AL

CONNAUGHTROAD

PIERROAD

QUEENS

ROAD

JUBIL

EEST

DES

VOEU

XRO

AD

CENTRA

L

QUEEN

VICTO

RIAST

HARBOURVIEW

STREET

DOUG

LASS

T CONNAUGHTPLACE

WELLINGTO

NSTREET

ARB

UTH

NOT

ROAD

GLEN

EALYST

REE

T

WYNDHAM

ST

ICEHO

USE

STREET

ICE

HOUSE

STREET

LOWER A

LBERT ROAD

UPPER ALBERTROAD

GARD

EN RO

AD

QUEENS ROAD

CHATER ROAD

JACKSON

ST

BANK

ST

STAN

LEYSTR

EET

THEA

TRE

LANE

WOON

LANE

POTT

INGE

RSTREET

WYN

DHAM

STREET

FINANCESTREET

IFC Mall

HSBC

CentralMarket Exchange

Square

CentralBus

Terminal

The

Landmark

Old DairyFarm Building

GovernmentHouse

Peak TramTerminal

StandardChartered

TheCentre

CentralMTR

Airport Express &Hong Kong MTR Station

Zoological& Botanical

Gardens

STATUE

SQUARE

LANK

WAIFO

NG

LANKWAIFONG

C E NT R A L

WINGWAHLAN

E

IFC2Tower

LEGCOBuilding

PEDDER

STREET

ALBA

NYROAD

OldBank

of China

LIYUE

NSTW

EST

LIYUENS

TEAST

@

@

b

c

d

e

g

h

a

f

A

12

3

4

56 7

8 9

10

18

1716

15 1413

12 11

CENTRAL & THE PEAK

0 100 m


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PLACES

53


TAM

ARST

MURR

AYRO

AD

COTT

ONTREE

DRIVE

QUEENSWAY

LAMBETH

WALK

EDINBURGH PLACE

HARCOURT ROAD

DRAKE STREET

RODNEY

ST

RE

ET

TIM

WAH

AVEN

UE

TIM

MEI

AVEN

UE

FlagstaffHouse

Outer IslandsFerry Piers

BusTerminal

Star FerryPier

QueensPier

Bank ofChina

Hong Kong

Club

AdmiraltyMTR

HongKongPark

ChaterGarden

A D M I R A L T YLippoCentre

Tower 1Admiralty

Centre

Victoria Harbour

B

CD

EATING & DRINKINGBit PointBulldogC BarCaliforniaCaptains BarChippyClub 64D26Fringe ClubInsomniaKegLuk Yu Tea HouseM at the FringeMan WahNha TrangPost 97

Roof GardenSchnurrbartT.W. CafThai LemongrassTsui WahYung KeeZhong Guo Song

121613

13A28

111815147

1851

1718103

13496

ACCOMMODATIONConradIsland Shangri-LaMandarin OrientalRitz-Carlton

CDA

B

SHOPSBlanc De ChineCRC Department StoreDymocksJoyce BoutiqueLane CrawfordPalette Collections GalleryShanghai TangSun Chau Book and

Antique Co.Teresa Coleman

ebahc

fe

dg

MTR station


56/208

PLACES

54


of the most thrilling images ofHong Kong. The portly vesselshave been running since 1898,and the current 1950s-stylegreen-and-cream livery andwooden decks and seating are

charmingly anachronistic. Thisisnt just a tourist sight though the double-decker boats carryabout 100,000 passengers a day,

mostly locals, so come preparedfor crowds.

IFC2 and Exchange SquareConnaught Rd and Finance St.Justwest of the Star Ferry Pier is

the International FinanceCentre, a business and shoppingcomplex overlooking theOuter Islands Ferry Piers;

Victoria Harbour

Central is the best place from which to ponder Hong Kongs magnificent Victoria

Harbour, from whose Cantonese label (Heung Gang or Fragrant Harbour) the

entire SAR takes its name. This safe haven for shipping was what attracted theBritish in the first place, and after the colony became established, international

trading concerns which depended entirely on maritime transport were natu-

rally attracted here. Today, Hong Kongs money-making enterprises have shifted

into Centrals towers, and the harbour is shrinking as land is reclaimed in order

to build still more skyscrapers: at 1km across, the harbour is half as wide as in

1840. This narrowing has drastically reduced the harbours ability to flush itself

clean and its water is dangerously polluted: 1.5 million cubic litres of untreated

sewage are discharged here daily, and new sewage treatment facilities awaitcompletion.

Despite this, its still difficult to beat the thrill of crossing the harbour by boat;

alternatively, you can walk along Centrals landscaped waterfront for a view of the

maritime activity that originally made Hong Kong great junks, ferries, motorboats,

container ships, cruise liners and sailing boats all pass through. Twenty thousand

ocean-going ships sail via the harbour every year, and thousands of smaller boats

depart from here on their way to the Pearl River estuary and China.

V ICTOR IA HARBOURHongKongIsland:Central

andthePeak


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PLACES

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the complexs IFC2 Toweris currently Hong Kongstallest structure at 420m high even higher than the PeakTrams upper terminus. Hometo the Hong Kong MonetaryAuthority, IFC2s 88 oors areso well proportioned that itsheight is disguised until youconsciously measure it againstadjacent structures, or see itsupper storeys hidden by cloud.

Inland from the InternationalFinance Centre, and accessibleby a raised walkway, are thethree pastel-pink, marble andglass towers of Hong KongsStock Exchange, sproutingfrom Swiss architect RemoRivasExchange Square.

The adjacent open piazza hassculptures by Henry Mooreand Elizabeth Frink, while theinterior is entirely computer-operated: the buildingsenvironment is electronicallycontrolled, and the brokerswhisk between oors in state-

of-the-art talking elevators.Statue SquareThe pedestrian underpassfrom the Star Ferry concourseemerges into Statue Square,heart of the late-nineteenth-century colony, though now

uncomfortably bisected byChater Road. The northernsegment is bounded to the eastby the members-only HongKong Club,housed inside amodern, bow-fronted tower;this is faced by the MandarinOriental Hotel, which hidesan opulent interior inside a dull,box-like casing.

Across Chater Road inthe southern half of StatueSquare,the statueitself isthat of Sir Thomas Jackson, anineteenth-century manager ofthe Hongkong and ShanghaiBank. This area is a meeting

point for the territorys 200,000Filipina amahs, or maids, whodescend en masse on Centraleach Sunday to sociably picnic,shop, read, sing and have theirhair cut.

The most important ofCentrals surviving colonialbuildings sits on the easternside of Statue Square. Builtin 1898, the former SupremeCourt(now the LEGCObuilding home of HongKongs Legislative Council), agranite edice with dome andcolonnade, is the only colonialstructure left in the square. Thisis the SARs nearest equivalentto a parliamentary building,though its locally elected

members must be approvedby the Chinese authoritiesin Beijing, and so it hardlyconstitutes an independentgovernment.

Three banksCrossing the southern half of

Statue Square and the busy DesVoeux Road puts you rightunderneath Sir Norman FostersHongkong and ShanghaiBanking Corporation(HSBC) headquarters, which

INTER IOR, HSBC

HongKong

Island:Centrala

ndthePeak


58/208

PLACES

56


opened in 1986. The whole

battleship-grey building issupported on eight groups ofgiant pillars and its possibleto walk right under the bankand come out on the otherside a necessity stipulated bythefeng shuibelief that the oldcentre of power on the island,

Government House, shouldbe accessible in a straight lineby foot from the Star Ferry.You look up through theglass underbelly into a sixty-metre-high atrium, with oorssuspended from coathanger-likestructures and linked by long

escalators that ride through eachstorey, and open offi ces rangedaround the central atrium. Thepublic banking facilities are onthe rst two oors, so you canride the rst couple of escalatorsfrom street level to have a look.The bronze lions at the frontwere saved from the banksprevious incarnation one isstill scarred from World War IIshrapnel wounds.

Next door to the HSBCis the headquarters of theStandard Chartered Bank,a curiously stepped towersqueezed between opposing

blocks that by design just

overtop the HSBCs building. Amore serious conceptual rival toHSBC is I.M. Peis 315m-highBank of China, across GardenRoad to the east. Completedin 1990, Peis angular, dark-glassbuilding is visually striking andovertowers the HSBC building

by 145m, though the knife-like prole pointing skywardsoffendsfeng shuisensitivities(see above) and the buildingis disliked by many locals. TheOld Bank of China, whichthe new Bank of China Towersuperseded, still stands next

to the HSBC. A solid stonestructure dating from 1950,its now occupied by anotherbank and, at the top, the ChinaClub, a wealthy members-onlyhaven, reputedly home to somevery risqu artworks.

Queens Road and Des VoeuxRoadQueens Roadhas beenCentrals main street since the1840s, when, prior to landreclamation, it was on thewaterfront. Running southfrom it, just west of HSBC,Ice House Streetwas named

Feng shui

Whatever the scale of a building project, the Chinese consider divination using

feng shui(literally wind and water) an essential part of the initial preparations.

Reflecting Taoist cosmology, feng shui assesses how buildings must be positionedso as not to disturb the spiritual attributes of the surrounding landscape, which in

a city naturally includes other buildings. Structures must be favourably orientated

according to points on the compass and protected from local unlucky directions

(features that drain or block the flow of good fortune) by other buildings, walls,

hills, mountain ranges or water. Its not difficult to spot smaller manifestations of

feng shuiaround buildings in Hong Kong, such as mirrors hung above doors or woks

placed outside windows to deflect bad influences. Water features create positive

feng shui(it is believed that wealth is borne along by the water), hence the price ofharbourview real estate; in contrast, the old Government House has very bad feng

shui: its cut off from the sea, is overlooked by high buildings, and some of the sur-

rounding skyscrapers are placed so that their corners point towards it the feng

shuiequivalent of being stabbed.

HongKongIsland:Central

andthePeak


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PLACES

57


after a building that once storedblocks of imported ice for usein the colonys early hospitals;following it uphill brings youonto Lower Albert Road, wherethe early-twentieth-centuryOld Dairy Farm Building, in

brown-and-cream brick, todayhouses the Fringe Cluband theForeign Correspondents Club, aretreat for journalists, diplomatsand lawyers.

Running west, Queens Roadand parallel Des Voeux Road(with its tramway) take in some

of the territorys most exclusiveshops and malls. These includeThe Landmarkshoppingcomplex, on the corner ofPedder Street and Des VoeuxRoad, which boasts a fountainin its huge atrium and is akey hub in the pedestrianwalkway system that links allCentrals major buildings.

Whether you follow QueensRoad or Des Voeux Roadwest from here, look out forthe parallel alleys which runbetween the two, Li YuenStreet Eastand Li YuenStreet West; both are packed

tight with stalls selling womensclothes, silkwear, childrensclothes, fabrics, imitationhandbags and accessories.Southwest of these alleys, overQueens Road, PottingerStreets steps are similarlyclogged with stalls sellingribbons, owers, locks and otherminor items. In contrast, nearbyon Queens Road is LaneCrawford, one of the citys top

and most staid departmentstores.Just west of Central Market,

at 99 Queens Road Central,is The Centre, designedby architect Denis Lau, andby night one of the mosteye-catching features of the

islands skyline. The buildingshorizontal bars of light changecolour constantly and performa dancing light show nightly at9pm: the best place to view thespectacle is from the Peak orfrom the Kowloon waterfront.

Lan Kwai FongThe network of streets southof Queens Road contains aburgeoning array of trendy pubs,bars, restaurants and clubs, atthe heart of which is a slopingL-shaped lane whose name,Lan Kwai Fong, is now used

to refer to the whole area. Theentertainment kicks off mid-afternoon, with many placesremaining open until dawn. LanKwai Fong is mostly frequentedby expats and Chinese yuppies a good district to meet young,aspiring locals.

The Zoological and BotanicalGardensEntrances on Glenealy and Albanyroads. Daily 6am7pm. Free. Perchingon the slopes south of UpperAlbert Road, overlookingCentral, are the low-keyZoological and Botanical

STREET, CENTRAL

HongKong

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ndthePeak


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PLACES

58


Gardens, which opened in 1864.Theres a nice mix of shrubs,trees, and paved paths here, withspectacular close-ups of theupper storeys of the Bank ofChina Tower and the HSBC, butthe main draw is a small aviary,

home to cages of rare cranes,songbirds, and all kinds of ducks.West across Albany Road (via anunderpass) is a collection of apes,including gibbons and orang-utans, along with one jaguar.

Government House

Upper Albert Rd. Gardens and partsof the house open six times a year;dates announced in the local press.Free. Government House was

the residence of Hong Kongscolonial governors from 1855until the SARs return to Chinain 1997. Hong Kongs currentChief Executive, Donald Tsang,has also taken up residence heredespite the buildings colonial

associations and notoriouslybadfeng shui. The house is astrange blend of styles (theturret was added by the Japaneseduring World War II), and thegardens are notable for theirrhododendrons, azaleas and hugesh pond.

Hong Kong ParkDaily 6am11pm. Free. Southfrom the Bank of China across

WING

WAH LAN

E

LANKW

AIFONG

STANLEYST

PEDDE

RST

DUDD

ELLST

LANK

WAIFO

NG

WING

WAHL

ANE

WELLIN

GTON

STREETWYN

D

HAM

ST

REET

D'AGU

ILARS

TREET

QUEE

NSROAD

LOWER

ALBERTROAD

WYND

HAM

STREET

WOON

LANE

Old DairyFarm Building

1

2

34

567

8

910

13

12

11

EATING & DRINKINGBit PointBulldogCaliforniaC BarClub 64D26Fringe Club

InsomniaKegM At The FringePost 97Roof GardenSchnurrbartThai LemongrassTsui WahYung KeeZhong Guo Song

7118836

13

109

13121358142LAN KWAI FONG

0 50 m

MTR station

EDWARD YOUDE AV IARY


andthePeak


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PLACES

59


Cotton Tree Drive, Hong KongPark is beautifully landscapedin tiers up the hillside. Amongstthe trees and boulders are

ornamental lakes and waterfallsstocked with turtles and pelicans,alongside which a continualprocession of brides pose forwedding photographs. Specicsights include a conservatorywith dry and humid habitatsfor its orchids, cacti and trees,

and the superbEdward YoudeAviary (daily 9am5pm; free),designed as an enormous walk-through mesh tent, coveringa piece of semi-tropical forestwhich is home to some eighthundred tropical birds. Despitetheir bright plumage, these

can be surprisingly hard tospot amongst the canopy, evenwith wooden walkways atbranch height. Elsewhere in thepark, look for ocks of noisycockatoos, which are white withyellow crests; escaped pets, theyhave a habit of damaging treesby ripping off branches and bark.

At the northern corner ofHong Kong Park, the elegantlycolonial Flagstaff Housewasbuilt in 1844 as the offi ce andresidence of the Commanderof the British Forces in HongKong. Today, it stands indeance of the surrounding

skyscrapers, its cool whitewalls, shutters, high ceilings andpolished wooden oors theepitome of understated colonial

charm. Its survival is down tothe donation by one Dr K.S.Lo of his ne collection oftraditional Chinese teapots, cupsand wooden tea trays, which theSAR authorities have put ondisplay inside Flagstaff Houseas the Museum of Teaware

(Mon & WedSun 10am5pm;free), a suitably rened subjectfor such a building.

The Lippo CentreQueensway. The Lippo Centreis an eye-catching, segmentedstructure of mirrored glass

designed by American architectPaul Rudolph. Supported onhuge grey pillars, interlockingsteel and glass spurs tracetheir way up the centres twinhexagonal towers, creatingan unmistakeable landmark though theres nothing ofinterest inside.

The PeakThe 552-metre heights of thePeak offi cially Victoria Peak- give you the only perspectivethat matters in Hong Kong:down, and over Central and themagnicent harbour. Property

T H E P E AK T R AM

HongKong

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ndthePeak


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PLACES

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on the Peak, which is clad inwoodland and is a popularretreat from the high summertemperatures, has become theprerogative of the colonys elite:residents include politicians,bank CEOs, various consul-generals and assorted celebrities.

The best way to ascend isaboard the Peak Tram(daily7ammidnight, every 1015min; $30 return, $20 one-way),

a 1.4km-long funicular railwaywhich has been in operationsince 1888. The eight-minuteascent tackles 27-degree slopes,forcing you back into yourwooden bench as the carriagesare steadily hauled through theforest. The ride begins at the

terminal on Garden Road andnishes at the Peak Tower,an ugly concrete structuregenerally referred to as theFlying Wok. Its sole virtue isthe superb views from the topterrace, which encompass theharbour, Tsim Sha Tsuis land

reclamation projects and low-tech concrete tower blocks,right into the New Territories.Further vistas can be savouredacross the road, from the upperterrace of the Peak Galleria, atouristy shopping complex fullof shops and restaurants. Its a

panorama thats diffi cult to tireof if you can manage it, comeup again at night when thelights of Hong Kong transformthe city into a glittering box oftricks.Youre not yet at the top of

the Peak itself: four roads panout from the tower, one ofwhich, Mount Austin Road,provides a stiff twenty-minutewalk up to the landscapedVictoria Peak Garden. Acircuit of the Peak via shadyHarlech Road takes aroundan hour. First views are ofAberdeen and Lamma; as you

turn later into Lugard Road,Kowloon and Central eventuallycome into sight. You can alsowalk back to Centralfromthe Peak Tower in around fortyminutes, via a path throughthe forest which emerges ontoRobinson Road near the Zoo.

Shopping

Blanc De ChineFloor 2, Pedder Building, 12 Pedder St.Elegant and expensive designsloosely based on traditionalChinese clothes, mostly in silkor cashmere.

CRC Department Store

Chiao Shang Building, 92 QueensRd. A good supply of Chinesespecialities such as medicines,foods, porcelain and handicrafts.

DymocksStar Ferry Concourse. Crampedstore but very strong on books

about Hong Kong and China,from glossy coffee-table worksto novels, local maps and hikingguides.

Joyce Boutique16 Queens Rd. Hong Kongs mostfashionable boutique offers its

own range of clothing, as wellas many top overseas designerbrands.

Lane Crawford70 Queens Rd. Hong Kongsoldest Western-style departmentstore, locally dubbed HongKong Harrods and similarlyupmarket. Worth checking forseasonal sales.

Palette Collections GalleryFloor 5, 23 DAguilar St Wwww.palettecollections.com. Specialistin upmarket Chinese paintings,porcelain and antique furniture;


andthePeak
http://www.palettecollections.com/http://www.palettecollections.com/http://www.palettecollections.com/http://www.palettecollections.com/


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contact in advance (throughwebsite) for viewings.

Shanghai TangGround Floor, Pedder Building, 12Pedder St. Beautifully done up in1930s Shanghai style, this storespecializes in new versions oftraditional Chinese clothing,and they can also make to order.Expensive, though sales are

regular and good.Sun Chau Book and AntiqueCo.32 Stanley St Wwww.sunchau.com.hk. Quirky shop full ofold household bits and piecessuch as porcelain, photographs,Cultural Revolution posters, andeven gramophone records fromthe 1930s.

Teresa Coleman79 Wyndham St Wwww.teresacoleman.com. One of Hong Kongs best-known antique dealers, with areputation for textiles.

RestaurantsCaf DecoPeak Galleria, 118 Peak Rd, The PeakT2849 5111. MonThurs 11.30ammidnight, Fri & Sat 11.30am1am,Sun 9.30ammidnight. Exceptionalviews and a stylish Art Decointerior that extends through tothe toilets. The menu includespizzas, curries, noodles, grilled

meats and oysters, or youcan just have cake and coffee theres often also live jazz.The location ensures relativelyhigh prices. Book if you wantwindow seats.

Chippy

51A Wellington St, entrance downthe steps on Pottinger St; no phone.MonFri 11am3pm & 610.30pm,Sat 11am7pm. The last authenticBritish sh and chip shop inHong Kong, whose tiny interioroffers a couple of tables if youdont want a takeaway. Fries are

great, though sh is sometimesa bit mushy. A large plate ofbattered cod and chips costs $85.

Luk Yu Tea House2426 Stanley St, just west ofDAguilar St T2523 5464. Daily7am6pm. A snapshot from

the 1930s, with old woodenfurniture and ceiling fans, thisself-consciously traditionalrestaurants mainstay is dimsum. Despite its local fame,the quality of the food barelyjusties the tourist-inatedprices. Upwards of $100 a head;reservations essential.

M at the Fringe2 Lower Albert Rd T2877 4000.MonSat noon3pm & 6pm12.30am,Sun 7pmmidnight. Stylishrestaurant much favoured by theglitterati for its boldly avoured,internationally inuenced, health-

S H A N G H A I T A N G

HongKong

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ndthePeak
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conscious meat, sh and veggiedishes. Around $300 a head.

Man WahFloor 25, Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 5Connaught Rd T2522 0111. Dailynoon3pm & 6.3011pm. Subtle andaccomplished southern Chinesefood at connoisseurs prices($500 a head and up), thoughthe view outperforms the menu.The hotels Clipper Loungeis

also a good place for a formalEnglish afternoon tea.

Nha Trang8890 Wellington StT2581 9992.Dailynoon11pm.First-rate Vietnamesefood, whose crisp, clean, andsharp avours make a nice break

from more muggy Chinesefare. The grilled prawn andpomelo salad, rice-skin rolls, andlemongrass beef are excellent, andtwo can eat very well for $200.

The Peak Lookout121 Peak Rd T2849 1000. MonThurs

10.30am11.30pm, Fri & Sat10.30am1am, Sun 8.30am11.30pm.This place used to be famousfor its views, but has beencruelly robbed of them bythe ugly Peak Tower. Thestone colonial building withraked ceilings retains plenty of

atmosphere inside though, andthe food, with an Asian-Indianslant, is still reasonable value forbrunch or al fresco dining atnight. Reckon on around $200per head for a full meal.

Roof GardenTop floor at The Fringe Club, 2 LowerAlbert Rd T2521 7251.LunchMonFri noon2.30pm. Bar MonThursnoonmidnight, Fri & Sat noon3am.Attached to a gallery, this barand buffet has rooftop tables,and offers vegetarian all-you-can-eat lunches for $65, andtapas from $20 in the evening.

Thai LemongrassFloor 3, California Tower, 30 DAguilarSt T2905 1688. MonThursnoon2.30pm & 6.3011pm, Fri &Sat noon2.30pm & 711.30pm, Sun6.3010.30pm. Authentically spicy,complex avours prevail at thismuch-recommended long-timefavourite. They do standardslike red curry and tum yamgaeng(spicy prawn soup)verywell, along with more unusual

dishes such as beef and mango.Upwards of $200 a head.

Tsui Wah1719 Wellington St; no phone.Daily 10am8pm. Multi-storeyinstitution serving a huge arrayof inexpensive Cantonese fast

food, but shball noodle soup isthe thing to go for the stock isvery good quality along withHai Nam chicken or the verysweet deserts. Packed to burstingat lunchtimes.

T.W. Caf

210 Lyndhurst Terrace; no phone.Not only do they serve necoffee here, but also large setbreakfasts of egg and toast, friedllet of sole, or chicken steaksfor around $25. Window bar forpeople watching.

Yung Kee3240 Wellington St, on the corner withDAguilar St T2522 1624. Daily 11am11.30pm. An enormous placewith bright lights, scurrying staffand seating for a thousand, this isone of Hong Kongs institutions.Their roast goose and pigeon aresuperb, and the dim sum is alsogood. Around $200 a head andhighly recommended.

Zhong Guo Song6 Wo On Lane T2810 4141. Daily11.30am10.30pm.Tiny, withabsolutely no decor, but thestraightforward, home-style


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Cantonese dishes are fresh,excellently cooked, andinexpensive.

Bars and clubsBit Point

31 DAguilar St T2523 7436. MonSatnoon2am, Sun 4pmlate; happyhour 49pm. German theme-bar,concentrating on meals untilaround 10pm, after whichthe bar starts selling industrialquantities of lager and schnappsas the jukebox blares.

BulldogGround Floor, 17 Lan Kwai FongT2523 3528. MonThurs & Sunnoon2am, Fri & Sat noon4am; happyhour 58pm. Fourteen-metre-longbar, plasma screen TVs tuned toworld sports and a dart board this bar and grill is for kickingback in and getting rowdy overa game of soccer.

CaliforniaGround Floor, California Tower, 3032Lan Kwai Fong T2521 1345. Mon,Tues & Thurs noon1am, Wed, Fri &Sat noon4am, Sun 6pmmidnight.

Expensive Americanbar and restaurant witha tiny dance oor onwhich yuppies struttheir stuff. Its beenaround for too long tobe at the cutting edge ofanything, but can still befun on occasion.

Captains BarMandarin Oriental Hotel,

5 Connaught Rd T25210111. Daily 11am2.30am.Knowledgeable barstaff can provide youwith every cocktailknown to man, and theatmosphere is lively, withan excellent Filipino

band playing nightly 9pm2am.

C BarGround Floor, California Tower, 3032DAguilar St T2530 3695. MonThurs7.30pm1am, Fri & Sat 7.30pm2am,Sun 210pm. Tiny corner-barwhose big draw is frozen

cocktails dispensed with a giantsyringe. The associated C Clubdownstairs pulls in hip and veryyoung crowds with Ibiza DJsplaying house music. A fun androwdy place.

Club 64

Ground Floor, 1214 Wing Wah LaneT2523 2801. Happy hour is a long2.309pm. MonSat noon2am,Sun noon6pm. Down-at-heel,back-alley drinking denplaying blues and rock to anenthusiastic, vaguely indiecrowd mast mights, manyof whom spill out onto thepavement later.

D2626 DAguilar St T2877 1610. Small,low-key bar which is a goodplace for a warm-up drink or ifyou actually want a conversationwith your companions.

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Fringe Club

2 Lower Albert Rd T2521 7251.MonThurs noonmidnight, Fri &Sat noon3am; happy hour 49pm.The ground-oor bar of thistheatre and art-gallery complexhas good-value beers and livemusic, and theres also a popularrooftop bar.

Insomnia3844 DAguilar St T2525 0957. Daily8am6am. Street-side bar where,early on in the evening at least,conversation is possible. Later,the house band plays coversat maximum volume to an

enthusiastic dance crowd.Keg52 DAguilar St T2810 0369.MonThurs & Sun 5pm1am, Fri & Sat5pm2am. Decked out in woodand metal trim to resemble theinside of a barrel, this placehas a big range of importedbeers, including Ruddles and

Hoegaarden. Popular with expat

Brits who want more thanPilsner in their pint pots.

Post 979 Lan Kwai Fong T2186 1816.SunThurs 9.301am, Fri & Sat9.302.30am. Theres a discodownstairs and a arty, bohemian

atmosphere in the bar upstairs,with a strong gay presenceon Friday nights. Serves fry-ups, sandwiches and all-daybreakfasts.

SchnurrbartGround Floor, Winner Building,

27 DAguilar StT

2523 4700.MonThurs noon12.30am, Fri & Satnoon1.30am, Sun 6pm12.30am.Long-established Germanbar with herring and sausagesnacks, and some of the bestbeer around. Serious headachesare available courtesy of the 25different kinds of schnapps onoffer.

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Hong Kong Island:

Mid-Levels andWesternCentrals western boundaries are somewhat blurred, but

as you move uphill the area below Lyndhurst Terrace

is generally known as Mid-Levels, incorporating the

newly gentrified region of SoHo. Its visually rather dull,

with no grand buildings from any era, and the major

pull is the growing number of swanky bars and restau-

rants. The Mid-Levels in turn blend imperceptibly with

Western, a cover-all term for the remaining downtown

districts west of Central, including Sheung Wan and Tai

Ping Shan. Here, its a few pockets of older buildings,

stepped market lanes such as Pottinger Street and

traditional stores which lend some atmosphere to the

otherwise bland modernity of waterfront expressways

and high-rises. The areas biggest single attraction is

undoubtedly Hollywood Road, with its wealth of antique

and arts stores and the magnificent Man Mo temple.

Jamia Mosque and Ohel LeahSynagogueCaine Roadis Mid-Levelsmain artery,leading past theRoman Catholic cathedral toShelley Street, a left turn up

which is the Jamia Mosque, afocus for the territorys ftythousand Muslims. The presentbuilding dates from 1915, apale-green structure set in itsown quiet, raised courtyardabove the surrounding terraces(theres no public entry).

West on busy RobinsonRoad, stairs lead down tothe whitewashed Ohel LeahSynagogue, lurking in its ownquiet, leafy hollow below themain road. The territorys best-known synagogue, it was builtby the wealthy Sassoon familyin 1902. Great care has recently

been taken to restore the oak-carved and painted interior,although unfortunately securityconcerns make it diffi cult tosimply drop in for a look round if you want to go in, bring ID

and ask at the entrance. T H E M I D - L E V E L S E SC AL AT OR

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The Mid-Levels EscalatorThe Mid-Levels Escalatorcuts up the hillside for 800mfrom the footbridge acrossQueens Road by the corner ofJubilee Street, along CochraneStreet and across Hollywood,Caine and Robinson roads,ending at Conduit Road. Itis capable of carrying thirtythousand people a day ona one-way system, whichchanges direction during theday: uphill from 10.20am tomidnight, downhill from 6amto 10am (use accompanying

staircases to go against the ow).All told, its a twenty-minuteride from bottom to top, or 45minutes if you have to walk.

SoHoThe Mid-Levels Escalatormakes it easy to reach a districtrecently christened SoHo, asin South of Hollywood Road,although it now also extendsnorth into Peel, Wellington andGage streets. There are dozensof restaurants and bars here,opening, closing and changingtheir name and cuisine every

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Hong Kong-MacauFerry Terminal

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JaspasLa KasbahLa PampaLin Heung Tea HouseMuyu ZiganSherpa Nepalese CuisineTaichong BakeryWyndham Street DeliYellow Door Kitchen

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month. The areas daytimeappeal is mainly down to afew old-style shophouses, andwhile the tide of gentricationis strong (orists, interiordecorators and antique shopshave all moved in), youll stillnd the sort of practical outlets butchers, hardware shopsand rice sellers that tell youthis remains a real Chineseneighbourhood.

Sheung WanSheung Wan begins prettymuch west of Jubilee Street, andthough modern developmenthas torn out many of the oldlanesand their street vendors, afew such as Wing Kut Street

and Man Wa Lane survive,and are full of stalls hawkingcalligraphy brushes, clothes andcarved name stamps or chops.

Sheung Wans most distinctivestructure is the massive ShunTak Centre; down at thewaterfront on Connaught Road,

its twin towers are encased ina distinctive red frameworkand house the Macau Ferry

Terminal. Opposite is theWestern Market(daily 10am7pm), whose ne Edwardianbrick- and ironwork shellhouses two oors of fabricshops. For a typical Chineseproduce market involvingvast amounts of fruit, vegetables,and freshly slaughtered meat try Sheung Wan Marketon Morrison Street; the secondoor is a mass of stalls (daily

6am2am) serving all sorts oflight snacks.

The streets due west of hereprovide glimpses of the tradesand industries that date back toHong Kongs settlement. Manyshops on Wing Lok Street andBonham Strand specialize in

birds nest andginseng: thenests are used to make bird nestsoup, a gastronomic specialitysaid to promote longevity; asthe nest is tasteless, however,the dishs quality rests in thesoup itself. Ginseng, the rootof a plant found in Southeast

Asia and North America, isprescribed for a whole host ofproblems, from reviving mental

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faculties in the aged, to curingimpotence some of the largerginseng trading companieshave venerable interiors deckedout in teak and glass panels.Many shops in Ko Shing Streetare dedicated wholesalers,selling traditional Chinese

medicinessuch as deerantlers, crushed pearls, driedseahorses and assorted herbalistsparaphernalia. Others leantowards kitchen supplies withtheir piles of dried mushrooms,salted and preserved sh, driedsquid, oysters, sea slugs, scallops

and seaweed.Hollywood RoadHollywood Road, and thestreets nearby, form a run ofantique shops, curio sellers and

furniture stores. Theres somewonderful Asian applied arthere furniture, old and newceramics, burial pottery, paintedscreens, prints, jewellery andembroidery and a group ofmore upmarket antique shops atthe eastern end of Hollywood

Road. As you move further westthe selection becomes moremixed (and prices get lower),with any number of smallerplaces and pavement vendorsselling bric-a-brac and junk onparallel Upper Lascar Row. InVictorian times this market was

infamous for its large number ofthieves, and dubbed Cat Streetby the white population (aftercat burglar, according to onestory). The western stretch ofHollywood Road is renowned

Medicinal tea

Medicinal tea is an integral part of Chinese life, and is sold from open-fronted

shops where cups or bowls are ranged on a counter alongside ornate brass urns,

each hung with a label naming the concoction in Chinese. Despite the name, thesebrews are made not from tea leaves but from various astringent medicinal herbs,

and like most medicines need to be drunk down in one gulp before youve had

a chance to taste them (the Cantonese term, fu cha, translates as bitter tea).

Popular in winter for driving off colds are ng fa cha(five-flower tea) and ya sei mei

(twenty-four flavour tea).

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for its coffi n makers, with somebusinesses specializing in silkgrave clothes.

Man Mo TempleHollywood Rd. Daily 8am6pm. Free.The Man Mo Temple is one

of Hong Kongs oldest, builtin the 1840s and equippedwith interior decorations frommainland China, all hung withsmouldering incense spirals.The temples name derivesfrom the words for civil(man) and martial (mo): the

rst attribute belongs to thegod of literature, Man Cheong,who protects civil servants (hesthe red-robed statue wieldinga writing brush); the latterto the martial deity, KuanTi (represented by another

statue, in green, holding asword). Kuan Ti is based onthe real-life warrior Kuan Yuof the Three Kingdoms Period(around 220 AD), who wasprotector of among otherthings pawnshops, policemen,secret societies and the military.

HOLLYWOOD ROAD

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The other altars in the templeare to Pao Kung, the god ofjustice, and to Shing Wong, agod of the city, who protectsthe local neighbourhood.

Tai Ping ShanLadder Streetis a steep ightof steps climbing up past theMan Mo Temple, built toease the passage of nineteenthcentury sedan-chair bearers.

At the top and off to the rightlies the district of Tai PingShan or Peaceful Mountain,which by the 1890s had beliedits name by becoming a placewhose overcrowded slumshosted outbreaks of plague.After a particularly virulent

eruption in 1894 killed 2500people, the slums were clearedand a Bacteriology Institutebuilt nearby, where that yearFrench researcher AlexandreYersin discovered that plaguewas spread to humans by rateas. Housed in an attractive

Edwardian building, theinstitute is now the Museumof Medical Sciences(TuesSat 10am5pm, Sun 15pm;$10), though the dated medicalequipment on display is lessinteresting than the areashistory, which is illustrated

with per iod photographs.Tai Ping Sh

16.rough guides directions hong kong & macau

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