1513 ringgold ave indianapolis, indiana 46203 · together with kib project staff, bates‐hendricks...

Ringgold Park Stewardship Handbook

1513 Ringgold Ave Indianapolis, Indiana 46203

Project Summary Ringgold Park Greenspace 1513 Ringgold Ave Indianapolis, Indiana 46203 Ringgold Park or Ringgold Play Grounds had traditionally been a much larger public space located northwest of the park’s current location spanning 8 city lots. Maps as far back as 1915 show the park as a mixed‐use space having everything from bathing pools to baseball diamonds to volleyball courts during its lifespan. Following the completion of the I‐65 interchange in 1971 the park was moved to its current location and much smaller lot. The Bates‐Hendricks Neighborhood with Keep Indianapolis Beautiful and IndyParks looked to bring new life to a long forgotten public space. Vision for the Space The original vision was to transform Ringgold Park into a safe, beautiful destination that neighbors can be proud of. In doing so, we hope to restore some of what Ringgold Park was in its glory days before the interstate destroyed the old park. The first goal was to create a safe place for children to play. Previously, the park was underused. Children played on nearby streets rather than on the park's singular swing set. Situated between a street and an alley, it was also unsafe. Work was compleeted with Indy Parks to install a new play structure in 2016. And, with the Project GreenSpace grant, addtions to the park's safety have been installed in the form of fence and plant boundaries. Secondly, enhancing the beauty of the park was a point of focus. It looked like a forgotten corner ‐ and it was. By planting natives at the entrance, adding trees, and beautifying a new border, the park now looks inviting and intentional. The third goal was to make the park a destination. When speaking to neighbors about our plans, most said, "Ringgold Park? What's that?" Colorful plants and a new play structure brought recognition to the park. An attractive shade structure was also envisioned on the far southeast corner of the park, where park visitors would have a good view of downtown just over the interstate. Ringgold Park was a dusty corner with deteriorating equipment. There was little reason to visit or stay, but with this grant it became a beautiful destination, just like the original Ringgold Park.

Importance of the Project This project will serve to accomplish many things:

Sustainability through preserving the natural landscape and engaging the surrounding community

Sociability by reconnecting and strengthening the community pride in an oft neglected public space in their community

Accessibility by designing as park with the best interest of all community members in mind

Features desired in the design include:

Native plants and trees

Sun‐shade shelter

Concrete pathway

Miscellaneous park amenities (including but not limited to: benches, tables, signage, etc.)

Birdhouses

Work Implementation Together with KIB project staff, Bates‐Hendricks neighbors, and other volunteers, several work days were completed to beautify the property. One of the more recent projects, close to the site’s completion, involved removing old railroad ties that had been placed in the park previously. A total of 35 volunteers participated in this project, pictured below:

Basic Maintenance for Perennials

General Maintenance. Generally speaking, most herbaceous perennial plants should be watered and weeded regularly,

mulched and pruned seasonally, and divided every few years. Each plant is different, however, and it is best to check

references, or contact Keep Indianapolis Beautiful for further information regarding the specific plant in question.

One of the first things to consider is whether the plant was planted appropriately, and that the plant was not shoved

partially out of the soil by the freezing and thawing of soil over the winter. If it was, dig up the plant and plant it again, so

the start of the soil on the plant’s root ball is flush with the ground. Watering. For perennial flower beds, plants require 1 to 1 ½ inches of water per week to maintain healthy flowers,

foliage and roots. Many established plants can go 10‐14 days without water, but this can potentially weaken the plant.

The keys words here are deep and infrequently. Deep watering will encourage deeper root growth which in turn

strengthens a plant’s ability to withstand drought.

The ideal time to water is in the early morning hours before 8:00 am. This allows enough time for there to be maximum

use of water while allowing the foliage to dry. Watering in the middle of the day when sun and wind are strong and

temperatures high, wastes significant amounts of water, and watering in the evening, leaving plants wet overnight,

increasing the chance of fungi or disease.

Mulching. Mulching is the practice of adding a protective layer of organic material to the soil surrounding your plants.

Mulching is extremely important during drought or extremely dry conditions, when conserving water is vital for plant

survival. There are many materials that can be used as mulch, including but not limited to hardwood bark, straw, rocks,

untreated grass clippings, pine needles, sawdust, newspaper and leaves.

Mulches applied in the winter are meant to keep the plant dormant. They are best applied when the plant has gone

dormant and temperatures are consistently below freezing. A 2‐4 inch layer is sufficient. Mulching in the summer

mainly serves to control weeds and conserve moisture.

Weeding. The most important thing in weeding is identifying the weed. Many valuable plants are continually pulled

and weeded in gardens simply because they were confused with a weed. Weeding can also be significantly reduces

by mulching your perennial bed. Weeds are most prominent the first two years, as the soil has been disturbed

and the weeds thrive. As you add additional mulch over the years, and as your plants fill out, weeding will be

less.

Pruning. There are certain symptoms or qualities of your

plants that may indicate that a good pruning is in order.

Prune if the plants are leggy, or if there is raggedy old

growth present alongside new growth at the base.

Pruning benefits the plant in a variety of ways. The types

of pruning that we are going to focus on in this section

are deadheading, cutting back, and thinning. These are

all described briefly below. The most important thing to

remember is to understand the needs of each species,

and appropriate times to prune (i.e. flowering shrubs

flower on either new growth or old growth, so pruning

time is very important).

Benefits of Pruning Perennials:

Extend the bloom period of the plant or promote repeat bloom

Encourage new growth

Stagger plants heights or bloom time

Keep plants contained in their own space

Prevent and control pests

Enhance the appearance of the plant

Extend the life of the plant

Deadheading. Deadheading is the process of removing dead flower or

seed heads from the plant. This is done for a variety of reasons,

including to improve the appearance of the plant, encourage a second

wave of smaller, less numerous blooms later in the season, and to

decrease the weight on the plants foliage, which can cause the foliage

to deteriorate.

If you wonder where to cut off the flower or seed head from the plant,

the key is to look for new buds or flowers. Simply prune off the flower

stem to just above a new lateral flower or bud, or a new leaf. You may

want to consider leaving some deadheads on the plant during the

winter if you feel that leaving them will provide winter interest for the

landscape, and food for the birds! They can then be pruned off in late

winter or early spring, after the need for winter interest peaks.

Cutting Back. Some plants must be pruned extensively in order to

renovate their appearance on a yearly or seasonal basis. Cutting back

means removing a significant amount of foliage as well as possible

flowers or deadheads. This technique is helpful for extending the life of the plants as well as containing plants within

their space. It is recommended that plants be cut back to the basal foliage, not all the way to the ground unless

indicated. Ornamental grasses typically benefit from being cut back.

When to cut back: Plants that are being cut back for looks or maintenance should be cut back after flowering. This

means that spring‐blooming perennials should be cut back right after flowering in the spring, and summer‐blooming

perennials should be cut back right after flowering in the summer. Plants that are being cut back to stagger or delay the

bloom time of the plant should be cut back before flowering. This mainly pertains to summer or autumn‐blooming

perennials.

Thinning and Transplanting. Thinning the plant by selectively removing plant stems prevents plant disease by

improving air circulation, producing sturdier stems, and improving the overall appearance of the plant. Thin out plant

stems in the Spring before the plant has reached its mature height by cutting or pinching selective stems to ground level.

Typically thinning one out of every three stems is helpful for the plant. Sometimes it is necessary to completely move a

plant that has grown out of its space to a new area of the garden. The best time to this is when the plant is dormant, in

early spring before the leaves have budded out.

Dividing. Dividing is the process of digging up established perennials, dividing them in half, thirds, or more parts, and

replanting the parts as individual plants. Plants will show you through symptoms that they need to be divided.

Symptoms to look out for include: Plants whose stems and branches appear to be all tangled up; smaller flowers than in

previous years; plants that have developed a hole in the center, so they take on the form of a donut; plants that look less

healthy and vigorous; plants that are flopping over or that require staking never needed before; plants that are

spreading outside of their bounds. Early spring flowering plants can be divided in autumn after dormancy or right after

bloom in spring. Perennials with woody roots or taproots should be divided in early spring before new top growth, or in

early autumn.

Basic Maintenance for Trees

Trees need regular maintenance to ensure their long‐term health and safety in our landscapes. The urban environment is the source of many stressors on trees; from asphalt reflecting excess heat, to the salt we put down in the winter time. Trees do not usually encounter these stresses in their natural environment and they can often lead to poor growth or even death of the tree if they aren’t properly addressed. To help our urban trees grow large and live long productive lives, there are many things that we can do to help out.

Water is essential for tree health and the critical factor for tree survival after planting. It is essential to make sure trees have enough water. Newly transplanted or young trees are especially at risk during times of drought because their root systems are smaller.

However, care must be taken not to over‐water. It is not necessary to water your tree every day. Once a week deep watering is preferable. Check the soil to make sure watering is necessary and use common sense. If the ground is moist, don’t water.

Watering tips

Water your tree for the first three years after planting. Give your tree 15 gallons of water, once a week, from May 1 to October 31.

Set a hose to a slow trickle under the tree’s drip line (from trunk to furthest extending branches). Or, use a soaker hose, which can water a greater area of the root zone and does not need to be moved as often.

You can also water each new tree with 15 gallons of water each week using a 5‐gallon bucket. Slowly pour three full buckets at the base of each tree once per week.

Avoid short, frequent watering of trees because this usually does not penetrate deep enough into the soil, and only encourages roots to grow toward the surface.

Watering should soak the top foot of soil.

Flowers Surrounding Trees

Flowers, just like grass, compete with trees for water and nutrients. Do not plant flowers under the drip line of trees. If limited gardening space requires planting near trees, try to plant in such a way as to minimize root damage. Do not build raised beds around trees. This will cause the root system to suffer and will ultimately shorten the life of the tree.

Pruning

Improper pruning can severely damage trees. It is best to consult with a certified arborist before pruning. If this is a tree planted with KIB, please contact Molly at 317.264.7555 x113 or [email protected] before pruning.

Topping is the severe cutting back of limbs to create stubs within the tree’s crown‐this mutilates and destroys trees. Topping is very unhealthy and dangerous to trees, so don’t do it! Always consult with a KIB arborist before pruning or staking a tree.

Staking

It is best to not stake trees if possible. Trees become stronger by adapting to the forces of the wind. Staking is only necessary for trees that are severely leaning.

If your tree was planted with KIB and you think it needs to be staked, please contact Molly Wilson at 317.264.7555x113 or [email protected]. You may also contact the KIB project manager

that helped with your neighborhood planting. Other ways to help your trees:

Let your tree be natural. No fertilizer, no ropes, no wires, no paint, etc.

Avoid damaging the bark of the tree with mowers and string trimmers.

Mulching Guidelines

Mulch is an organic product that is spread around the base of the tree, over the area above its root zone. Mulch helps keep roots cool in summer and warm in winter. It keeps weeds down and helps hold moisture.

A “moat” of mulch, about 2‐3” deep, also helps protect against lawn mower and string trimmer (weed eater) injuries‐the nicks and cuts caused by mowing too close to the trunk.

Studies have shown that wood‐chip mulch can nearly double tree growth during the first few years after planting, and fertilizes the tree as the mulch breaks down.

Mulching Tips:

Mulch should be spread in a circle as far around the base of a young tree as possible, but at the very least, to two to three feet. When finished, the mulch ring should resemble a deflated tire or doughnut, with a very wide and flat appearance.

As mentioned above, mulch should spread out to resemble a saucer or doughnut, not a mound or volcano, as is a common mistake. The flat doughnut shape will hold rainwater and distribute it to a tree’s roots more effectively.

It is very important to keep mulch from piling up around a tree’s trunk because that can lead to serious damage. A mound of mulch (or soil) that comes in contact with a trunk will keep it unusually moist, which can cause the bark to rot. That, in turn, makes a tree vulnerable to disease and insect problems. The tree’s main order root, also known as a root flare, should be visible at all times, unobstructed by any mulch, soil, or other material.

Ringgold Park Care Calendar First Year:

Perennials within the first month of planting will need watered heavily at least 2 times per week. This will be best accomplished with a sprinkler that can run for at least an hour.

After roots have established, a heavy watering will only be necessary 1 time per week possibly more if we have a drought year. Plants will exhibit signs of stress if watering is not sufficient. Signs of stress included: wilt, leaf curl, leaf browning, and failure to thrive.

With a heavy layer of initial mulch, weeds should be relatively well controlled, but monitoring the site for the onset of weeds is very important. One time per week the site should be evaluated for any weeds. Weeds should be pulled out with as much of the root intact as possible. Weeding is an excellent time to also pick up any trash or debris that has blown into the area.

In the fall (Oct‐Nov) perennials and grasses will need to be cut back to the ground. Adding a light layer of mulch to cover the perennials is recommended.

Second Year:

Any spring bulb foliage can be cut off only after it has completely yellowed and withered to the ground.

Monitoring of weeds will be the main emphasis for the second year. Once a week the site should be evaluated for the presence weeds. Weeds should be pulled out with as much of the root intact as possible. Caution and care should be exhibited when pulling weeds, as in the early stages of spring and summer, some returning perennials could be misidentified as weeds. Weeding is an excellent time to also pick up any trash or debris that has blown into the area.

Watering will become less of a regular need, but will not necessarily be something that can be safely ignored. The

perennials will need to be monitored for heat or dry stress over the summer months and watered heavily with a

sprinkler as needed.

Plant List – Perennials and Grasses Greenspace

Switchgrass, Panicum virgatum L. Height: 3‐6 feet Spread: 3‐6 feet Description: Clump‐forming, warm‐season grass with open, lacy sprays with small seeds, Aug‐Oct. Purple stigmas at flowering time. Switchgrass is a 3‐6 ft., rhizomatous, loose sod former with a large, open, finely textured, reddish‐purple seedhead. Fall color is pale yellow. Bright green leaves occur up and down the stem, turning bright yellow in fall. Switchgrass is a perennial. Grows in large clumps, with many persistent, curly leaves. Switchgrass is one of the dominant species of the tallgrass prairie, but also grows along roadsides where moisture is present. The rich, yellow‐colored clumps last throughout the winter.

Wild Quinine, Parthenium integrifolium Height: 2‐3 feet Spread: 1‐2 feet Description: This perennial plant is about 2‐3' tall while in flower. There is a rosette of basal leaves up to 6" long and 4" wide on long petioles. They are medium green, sandpapery in texture, coarsely serrated along the margins, and broadly lanceolate, ovate, or cordate. From the middle of this rosette, a stout flowering stalk develops, which has smaller alternate leaves on short petioles. Usually there are erect side stems that each develop an inflorescence. An inflorescence consists of flat‐headed clusters of small white flowerheads; usually, there are several of them bunched loosely together on the same plant. Each flowerhead is about 1/3" (8 mm.) across, consisting primarily of numerous disk florets, while the few ray florets are greatly reduced in size and barely perceptible. The overall effect is similar to

a head of cauliflower. The blooming period occurs from late spring to mid‐summer, and lasts about 2 months. There is no noticeable floral scent. Eventually, the flowerheads turn brown, and the achenes develop without tufts of hair. The central taproot is quite thickened and somewhat tuberous in appearance, while rhizomes promote the vegetative spread of this plant. Dense Blazing Star, Liatris Spicata Height: Spread: Description: Dense Gayfeather or marsh blazing star is an erect, slender perennial reaching a height of 3‐4 ft. The linear, grass‐like leaves are clumped toward the base of the plant, but extend up the stem to the showy flower cluster. A tall spike of rayless, rose‐purple (sometimes white), closely set flower heads. The purple, tufted flower heads are arranged in a long, dense spike blooming from the top down. The species name describes the elongated inflorescence, with its crowded,

stalkless flower heads. The protruding styles give the flower an overall feathery appearance, hence its alternate name, Dense Gayfeather.

Blue Flag, Iris Virginica Shrevei Height: Spread: Description: This perennial plant is 2‐3' tall. It produces clumps of basal leaves that are sword‐shaped and up to 3' long; they are mostly erect, although some of the larger leaves may become arched. These leaves are bluish green to green and glabrous. Individual leaves are up to 1" across near their bases, tapering very gradually to pointed tips. Leaf margins are smooth (entire) and leaf venation is parallel. The flowering stalks are either unbranched or sparingly branched and up to 3' tall; they are green, terete, and glabrous. Each stalk produces one or more small alternate leaves that are erect and sword‐like. From the axil of each alternate leaf, there develops 1‐2 flowers on pedicels 1‐5" in length. Both the flowering stalks and pedicels are terete and glabrous. Each pedicel is enfolded by a pair of sword‐like spathes that become chaffy with age.

Showy Black‐eyed Susan, Rudbeckia fulgida var. speciosa Height: 10‐14” Spread: 1‐2 Feet

Descriptions: This plant is great for dry sunny areas, as a cut flower, in borders,

in a wildflower garden, as a ground cover, in containers, along roadways, in mass

plantings, and in meadows. Rudbeckia attracts butterflies and hummingbirds. It

provides seeds for birds in the winter and nectar for butterflies. Orange

coneflowers are rhizomatous and form very large clumps. Not considered

invasive, the colonies will form rapidly in rich loose soil. Rudbeckia fulgida var.

speciosa will grow well in full sun to part shade and most soils except those that

are too dry.

Prairie Dropseed, Sporobolus heterolepis

Grass family (Poaceae)

Height: 1‐2 Feet Spread: 2‐3 Feet

Description: This native perennial grass forms dense tufts of sprawling leaves about 1‐2' tall and 2‐3' across. In each tuft, the infertile (flowerless) shoots are more abundant than the fertile (flowering) shoots. One or more flowering culms develop from the center of each leafy clump; these culms are 1½–3' long and usually ascending to erect. Each culm is slender, terete, light green, and hairless. Alternate leaves are located along the lower one‐fourth of each culm. The narrow leaf blades are up to 20" long and 2 mm. across; they are medium green, hairless, and either flat or somewhat rolled lengthwise. The leaf sheaths are usually hairless, although a few hairs may be present at their summits. Each fertile culm terminates in a narrowly pyramidal panicle about 3‐8" long; because of its naked branches and small spikelets, this panicle has a somewhat airy appearance. The wiry lateral branches of the panicle are 1‐3" long and ascending; they subdivide into shorter branchlets that ultimately terminate in individual spikelets. The central axis of the panicle, lateral branches, and branchlets are light green to purple, slender, and hairless. Depending on their stage of development, the spikelets can be olive green, silvery gray, golden yellow, or light tan. Each spikelet is about 4‐6 mm. long, consisting of a pair of unequal‐sized glumes, a single lemma, a membranous palea, and a floret. One glume is 4‐6 mm. long, while the other glume is 2‐4 mm. long; the lemma and palea are 3.5–5.5 mm. long. Each floret has 3 reddish anthers and a pair of stigmata that are short, white, and feathery. The florets are wind‐pollinated.

Straight Styled Wood Sedge, Carex Radiata Height: 2‐2.5 Spread: 1.5‐2 Description: Carex radiata, commonly known as eastern star sedge (star‐like flower clusters) or straight‐styled wood sedge (tip of the female flower known as the style is straight rather than curled), is an evergreen perennial that typically produces a dense foliage clump to 8‐12” tall of narrow, grass‐like, medium green blades. This sedge is native to mesic to wet‐mesic bottomlands and upland forests and on moist ravine slopes, sometimes in seasonally wet locations, in eastern North America from Newfoundland to Manitoba south to Missouri, Oklahoma, Arkansas, and Georgia.

Ascending to wide‐spreading, triangular culms (flower stems) rise above the foliage clump in spring to 20‐28” tall. Most culms are topped by an open, elongate, yellowish‐green, terminal inflorescence (to 1‐3” long) consisting of 3‐8 flower spikelets. Each spikelet contains a star‐like cluster of 3‐9 perigynia (perigynum is a scale‐like bract which encloses each female flower). Flowers bloom from April‐May. Male flowers, if present, are borne above the female flowers on the spikes (androgynous). Female flowers are followed by tiny, ovate to obovate achenes which radiate outward from the stem in a star‐like pattern. Short rhizomes are poorly‐developed. Celandine Poppy, Stylophorum Diphyllum Height: 1‐1.5 Spread: .75‐1 Description: Celandine poppy is a Missouri native wildflower which occurs most often in moist woodlands and along streambanks in the central and southeast portions of the State. Features 4‐petaled, yellow flowers which bloom in spring in small clusters atop stems typically growing 12‐18" tall. Blue‐green, pinnately lobed foliage is silvery below. Stems contain a bright yellow sap which was formerly used as a dye by Native Americans.

Wild Columbine, Aquilegia Canadensis Height: 2‐3 Spread: 1‐1.5 Description: Aquilegia canadensis is a Missouri native spring wildflower which occurs in rocky woods, slopes, ledges and open areas throughout the State. Features drooping, bell‐like, 1‐2", red and yellow flowers (red sepals, yellow‐limbed petals, 5 distinctive red spurs and a mass of bushy yellow stamens). Delicate, biternate foliage is somewhat suggestive of meadow rue (Thalictrum) and remains attractive throughout the summer as long as soils are kept moist. Flowers are quite attractive to hummingbirds. Genus name comes from the Latin word for eagle in reference to the flower’s five spurs which purportedly resemble an eagle’s talon. Specific epithet means of Canada or also of north‐eastern North America.

Plant List – Trees Eastern Redbud, Cercis canadensis Eastern redbud is a small deciduous tree. Trees typically grow 20 feet in height with a similar spread and have gracefully ascending branches and a rounded shape. Eastern redbud leaves are alternate, simple, broadly heart‐shaped and 3 to 5 inches high and wide. Leaves emerge reddish, turning green as they expand. Leaves are dark green in summer and yellowish in autumn. The showy flowers are pea‐like and rosy pink with a purplish tinge. Flowers develop before the leaves in spring, emerging in clusters along the branches. Redbud is ramiflorous, bearing flowers and fruits on bare branches. This is a rare trait in trees that grow in temperate climates. Flowers bloom between March and April and persist for 2 to 3 weeks. Flowers are pollinated by bees. By mid‐summer the flowers are replaced by bean‐like seed pods (legumes) that persist through the winter. Redbud flowers and young legumes are edible. The fruit is a flat, oblong legume that is 2 to 3 inches long. Fruit ripen in October and may persist through winter. Legumes have small, red‐brown seeds that are ¼ inch long. The seeds are scattered by birds and wind. The thin bark is gray and becomes scaly on older trees. Stems are slender, dark reddish brown to black and zig‐zag.

American Beech, Fagus grandifolia This tree is about 60‐100' tall, forming a trunk about 1½–4' across and an ovoid crown. In open areas, the trunk is typically short and stout, while the crown is large. In forested areas, the trunk is long and limbless, while the crown is smaller in size. The bark of both trunk and larger branches is smooth and light gray, while the bark of twigs is brown and glabrous. Young leafy shoots are yellowish brown and sometimes sparsely hairy. Alternate leaves are 2½‐6" long and ¾‐2" across; they are oblong‐elliptic to oblong‐ovate in shape, while their margins have widely spaced incurved teeth. Each leaf has 10‐14 lateral veins on each side. The upper surface of mature leaves is dark green, hairless, and shiny, while the lower surface is pale green, more dull, and hairless to sparsely hairy. The petioles are light green, rather short (½" in length or less), and glabrous or pubescent. The distinctive winter buds are up to ¾" long and narrowly ellipsoid in shape.

Serviceberry, Amelanchier canadensis, ‘Autumn Brilliance’ Height: 15‐30 feet, Spread: 15 feet Description: The serviceberry is a deciduous, early‐flowering, large shrub or small tree. It features eye‐catching, 5‐petaled, slightly fragrant, white flowers in drooping clusters which appear before the leaves emerge in early spring. Finely toothed, elliptic, medium to dark green leaves (1‐3" long) change to orange‐red in autumn. Flowers give way to small, round, green berries which turn red and finally mature to a dark purplish‐black in early summer. Berries resembling blueberries are a favorite for birds and are also used in jams, jellies and pies.

Eastern Red‐cedar, Juniperus virginiana Height: 16‐66 feet Diameter: 12‐39 inches

Also known as (Red Cedar, Eastern Juniper, Red Juniper, Pencil Cedar, Aromatic Cedar) is a species of juniper native to eastern North America from southeastern Canada to the Gulf of Mexico and east of the Great Plains.

Description Juniperus virginiana is a dense slow‐growing coniferous evergreen tree that may never become more than a bush on poor soil, but is ordinarily from 5–20 m or 16–66 ft (rarely to 27 m or 89 ft) tall, with a short trunk 30–100 cm or 12–39 in (rarely 170 cm or 67 in) diameter. The oldest tree reported, from Missouri, was 795 years old. The bark is reddish‐brown, fibrous, and peels off in narrow strips. The leaves are of two types; sharp, spreading needle‐like juvenile leaves 5–10 cm (2.0–3.9 in) long, and tightly ad pressed scale‐like adult leaves 2–4 mm (0.079–0.157 in) long; they are arranged in opposite decussate pairs or occasionally whorls of three. The juvenile leaves are found on young plants up to 3 years old, and as scattered shoots on adult trees, usually in shade. The seed cones are 3–7 mm (0.12–0.28 in) long, berry‐like, dark purple‐blue with a white wax cover giving an overall sky‐blue color (though the wax often rubs off); they contain one to three (rarely up to four) seeds, and are mature in 6–8 months from pollination. The Juniper berry is an important winter food for many birds, which disperse the wingless seeds. The pollen cones are 2–3 mm (0.079–0.118 in) long and 1.5 mm (0.059 in) broad, shedding pollen in late winter or early spring. The trees are usually dioecious, with pollen and seed cones on separate trees.

Chinkapin Oak, Quercus muehlenbergii Chinkapin (or Chinquapin) oak is a medium sized deciduous oak of the white oak group that typically grows 40‐60’ (less frequently to 80’) tall with an open globular crown. It is native to central and eastern North America where it is typically found on dry upland sites often in rocky, alkaline soils. Insignificant monoecious yellowish‐green flowers in separate male and female catkins appear in spring as the leaves emerge. Fruits are small oval acorns (to 3/4” long), with scaly cups that extend to approximately 1/2 the acorn length. Acorns are valued food for a variety of wildlife. Narrow, oblong‐lanceolate, shiny green leaves (4‐7” long) have coarse marginal teeth. Leaves somewhat resemble the leaves of chestnut (Castanea) whose nut is sometimes called a chinquapin, hence the common name of this oak whose acorn is sweet and edible. Also sometimes commonly called yellow chestnut oak. Fall color is variable, but usually undistinguished shades of yellow and brown. Species honors Gotthilf Henry Ernest Muhlenberg, 18‐19th century Lutheran minister‐botanist from Pennsylvania.

Common Weeds (Including invasive shrubs & trees)

This list is exhaustive, but by no means complete; it simply lists the most common weeds in Marion County

An excellent source of information on weeds is www.weedalert.com

For a current list of invasive plants and weeds, go to www.invasivespeciesinfo.gov

Weeding. The most important thing in weeding is identifying the weed. Many valuable plants are continually pulled and weeded in gardens simply because they were confused with a weed. Remembering your design and layout of the good plants will help you identify uninvited plants. And following is a listing and photos of the most common weeds in the Indianapolis area.

Weeds don't belong in the spring and early summer gardens; they steal soil nutrients, water and sunlight from your crops. The best way to control weeds is to prevent them from growing in the first place. Once they've sprouted it's best to get them while they're small.

Weeds compete with desirable vegetation for light, nutrients and water. They are unsightly and can promote insect and disease problems. Weeding can also be significantly reduced by mulching your perennial bed. Weeds are most prominent the first two years, as the soil has been disturbed and the weeds thrive. As you add additional mulch over the years, and as your plants fill out, weeding will be less.

Weed Control, General Observations and Recommendations: The most effective method of weed control is spraying with weed killer, the product will depend on the weed needing to be eradicated. But then, many people do not want to use chemicals. If you do, Read the Label. Be careful not to spray desirable plants. The second most effective method will be to dig up the entire weed by the root, or just pulling the weed if the soil is loose, but make sure you get all the root, or it will come back. When weeds are in areas without desirable plants, a weed whacker is easy, but only a cosmetic removal since you have not attacked the root.

Some home remedies work better than others. Try these for yourself and see which ones are good for you. * Boiling water: This will kill everything that it comes in contact with. Use it on the weeds that come up between flagstones or places where there are no crops that may become collateral damage. Just boil water and pour it in the

cracks. Within 24‐48 hours they weeds will be brown and dried out. *White Vinegar: This will also kill indiscriminately. Unlike boiling water though, you can put it in a spray bottle and use the sharp shooter setting on the cap to target the weeds and avoid the plants. This is best used in early spring when the leaves are tender. * Corn Gluten Meal: This is an organic pre‐emergent herbicide. Use it near established and transplanted crops. When properly applied, a weed's seed will germinate and form a shoot, but not a root. Corn Gluten Meal can be found in garden centers, and there will directions on the package. Generally the recommended amount is

20 lbs of the product to 1000 ft of garden space. If it rains too much after application it will not be effective. If it doesn't rain at all, water the area with ¼ inch of water and allow drying out over the next few days. It will take about 5‐6 weeks for to see results. Some Common Weeds:

Bindweed (Cornvolvulus arvenis) ‐ Field bindweed is a summer perennial member of the morning glory family. The leaves of field bindweed are arrowhead shaped and appear alternately on long creeping stems. Field bindweed has an extensive root system which may extend up to 15 feet underground, making control difficult. The flower of field bindweed are white to pink funnel shaped, approximately one inch across. Field bindweed spreads by either seed or rhizomes.

Canada Thistle (Cirsium arvense) ‐ This is an aggressive, creeping perennial weed that infests crops, pastures, rangeland, roadsides and non‐crop areas (your flower beds). It reproduces from vegetative buds in its root system and from seed. It is difficult to control because its extensive root system allows it to recover from control attempts. Combining control methods is the best form of management. Persistence is imperative so the weed is continually stressed, forcing it to exhaust root nutrient stores and eventually die. One plant can colonize an area 3 to 6 feet in diameter in one or two years if left unchecked.

Crabgrass (Digitaria sanguinalis) ‐ Crabgrass often becomes a problem weed in lawns and gardens, growing especially well in lawns that are watered lightly, under‐fertilized, poorly drained, and growing thinly. They are annual plants, and one plant is capable of producing 150,000 seeds per season. The seeds germinate in the late spring and early summer and grow well in mulched beds and can also outcompete domesticated lawn grasses, expanding outward in a circle up to 12 inches in diameter. In the fall when the plants die they leave large voids in the lawn. The voids then become prime areas for the crabgrass seeds to germinate the following season.

Creeping Charlie (Glechoma hederacea) ‐ This is native to Europe and southwestern Asia but has been introduced to North America and is now common in most regions other than the Rocky Mountains. Its common names include Alehoof, Creeping Charlie, Catsfoot (from the size and shape of the leaf), Field Balm, Run‐away‐robin, Ground Ivy, Gill‐over‐the‐ground, and Tunhoof. It thrives in moist shaded areas, but also tolerates sun very well. It is a common plant in grasslands and wooded areas. It also thrives in lawns and around buildings since it survives mowing. It spreads by stolons or by seed. Part of the reason for its wide spread is this rhizomatous method of reproduction. It will form dense mats which can take over areas of lawn, and thus can be considered potentially invasive or aggressive.

Bindweed

Crown Vetch (Securigera varia) ‐ Crown Vetch (or Purple Crown Vetch) is a low‐growing legume vine. It is native to Africa, Asia and Europe and is commonly used throughout the United States and Canada for erosion control, roadside planting and soil rehabilitation. It has become an invasive species in many states of the US. It grows 1 to 2 feet tall and bears small clusters of pink and white flowers from early summer to late fall. Crown Vetch is a beautiful, tough, aggressive spreading plant that will crowd out its neighbors and is well suited to a sunny bank where it will grow indefinitely with little maintenance. Its deep roots and thick, fern‐like leaves provide excellent erosion control where it is used as a ground cover. Crown vetch is toxic to horses, if consumed in

large amounts it can cause slow growth, paralysis, or even death.

Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) ‐ Dandelion is a winter perennial. The dandelion has thick fleshy tap root which often branches. New plants come from the root and root segments. The flowers are yellow and are individual stems. The seeds are brown with tip containing white hairs. The yellow flower will turn to a white globular puff ball. The seeds are disseminated by wind. Dandelions spread by both seed and stems from the root. Control is best by digging before the flowers have a chance to dry out and go to seed.

Garlic Mustard (Alliaria petiolata) ‐ Garlic mustard is a cool‐season biennial herb that ranges from 12 to 48 inches in height as an adult flowering plant. Leaves and stems emit the distinctive odor of onion or garlic when crushed (particularly in spring and early summer), and help distinguish the plant from all other woodland mustard plants. First year plants consist of a cluster of 3 or 4 round scallop edged leaves rising 2 to 4 inches in a rosette. Second‐year plants generally produce one or two flowering stems with numerous white flowers that have four separate petals. Garlic mustard is the only plant of this height in our woods with white flowers in May. Fruits are slender capsules 1 to 2.5 inches long that produce a single row of oblong black seeds with ridged seed coats. Garlic mustard can also be distinguished by its uproot, which is slender, white, and "s"‐shaped at the top of the root.

Henbit (Lamium amplexicaule) ‐ Henbit, a member of the mint family, is an upright winter annual that blooms in the spring. The leaves are rounded on the end with rounded toothed edges that grow opposite one another on square stems. It can grow from 4 to 12 inches tall on weak stems. Although an upright plant, weak stems sprouting from the bottom may lay almost horizontal. Henbit can be confused with purple deadnettle. The leaves of purple deadnettle, however, are more pointed at the end and are slightly scalloped. The flowers of henbit are purple, tubular shaped, and form in the whorls of the upper leaves. Henbit spreads only by seed and is generally not a problem in dense, vigorous turf grass sites but likes mulched areas.

Honeysuckle – (Lonicera spp.) belong to a large family that consists of hardy shrubs and vines. This super‐invasive shrub pops up everywhere, the first leaf out in the spring and the last to drop its leaves in the fall, shading and crowing out native plants. The fruit/seeds are spread by birds. It is easy to pull by hand when young, more mature shrubs require digging out the roots or cutting and spraying the stump to kill.

Lambs Quarter (Chenopodium album) ‐ Lambsquarter is an erect summer annual. The edges of the leaf are toothed and the tip is pointed. The leaves are covered with a white mealy substance, especially on the underside. The leaves form alternately on the stems. The root is a branched taproot. The flowers are found in small green clusters and lack petals. The clusters form in terminal spikes. It spreads by black seeds that germinate in late spring to early summer.

Mallow (Malva neglecta) ‐ The spreading stems of the winter annual mallow grow prostrate with leaves borne on long petioles. Common mallow grows from a thick straight tap root. The leaves are lobed and can be confused with ground ivy (Creeping Charlie). Mallow does not spread from nodes on stems as doe’s ground ivy. The flowers of common mallow are present from May to October. The flowers are white to lavender and have dark violet veins. The fruit resembles a cheese wheel. Mallow spreads by seed.

Mulberry (Morus rubra) ‐ While the fruits are edible and can also be used for making dyes, in urban areas the mulberry is an invasive tree whose seeds are spread by birds. Growing at the foot of buildings, fences and even other trees, it grows quickly and crowds out desired plants. If the fruit is not harvested, it will stain buildings, cars, and pavement. Cutting it back only encourages multi‐stemmed re‐growth, the stump must be sprayed to kill the tree. A bit more difficult to pull even when young, often a shovel is required to get the whole root.

Nut Sedge (Cyperus esculentus) ‐ Sedges have triangular stems with waxy grass‐like leaves which alternate. Sedges are not grass plants, but seedlings may be mistaken for grass. The leaves on both sedges are waxy and have an upright growth habit and a prominent midrib. Both sedges have underground root systems containing rhizomes and underground tubers which accomplish most of the reproduction. On yellow nutsedge, the tubers form at the end of whitish rhizomes. Purple nutsedge forms chains of tubers along brownish rhizomes the flowers of yellow nutsedge are yellowish; the seedheads are on triangular stems. It spreads mainly by germinating underground tubers, which are the only part of the plant that over‐winters. A yellow nutsedge tuber can produce 1,900 plants and 7,000 new tubers in a single growing

season.

Pineapple weed (Matricaria matricarioides) ‐ Pineapple weed is a summer annual. When the plant is crushed, it has the odor of a pineapple. The hairless leaves are divided into very narrow segments, and are arranged alternately on the stems originating from a taproot. The plant has a bushy growth habit resulting from branching from lower stems. Flowers which are yellow in color are produced from May through August. One to several flowers are produced at the end of short stems. Pineapple weed spreads by seed.

Plantain (Plantago major) ‐ Broadleaf plantain is a shallow mostly fibrous rooted perennial. The leaves which develop in a rosette are large oval shaped with predominant veins. The main growth period for broadleaf plantain is from June through September. The seed head is described as a rat‐tail like seed head with flowers along the upper half of the seed head. Broadleaf plantain spreads by both seed and shoots from the roots.

Poison Ivy (Rhus radicans) ‐ “Leaves of three, let it be”. Poison ivy can be an erect woody shrub or a climbing vine. The leaves alternate on red stems. They are glossy and have 3 leaflets 2 ‐ 3 inches long that can be smooth or toothed; leaves turn red in the autumn. As with other members of the Rhus family (poison oak and poison sumac), poison ivy can cause severe skin irritation. The yellowish flowers of poison ivy form in clusters in the axis. The flowers have

five green petals and are usually inconspicuous. Poison ivy forms a small creamy white berry in the fall containing a single seed. Berries generally remain attached to the stem through the winter. Poison ivy spreads by rhizomes and seeds and prefers shaded areas, and has become more common over time. Poison ivy has a fibrous root system. If killed by spraying, remember that the dead vines still have the oils that will cause inflammation, so care must still be taken to remove dead vines. Do not burn, the smoke if inhaled can cause inflammation of the lungs.

(Lactuca serriola) ‐ Prickly lettuce, also called wild lettuce or compass plant, is a winter annual. The leaves form in a basal rosette. Prickly lettuce has a deep tap root which will exude a milky sap. Prickly lettuce will produce an upright stem on which the leaves will be alternate. The mature leaves are deeply lobed. The leaves will twist vertical to the stem. The leaves have a row of spines along the mid‐vein of the lower surface. The flowers of prickly lettuce are yellow in color and approximately one third of an inch in diameter. Flowers are produced in late spring to early summer. Prickly lettuce reproduces

by seed.

Purple deadnettle (Lamium purpurium) ‐ Purple (or red) deadnettle is a winter annual often confused with henbit (Lamuim amplexicaule). Both weeds have square stems and belong to the mint family. The leaves of purple deadnettle are triangular in shape and less deeply lobed than henbit. The upper leaves of deadnettle are red to purple in color. The leaves of purple deadnettle have petioles with the petioles of the lower leaves being longer than the upper leaves. The flowers of purple dead nettle are light purple in color. The flowers are arranged in whorls and form in the axis of the upper leaves. Purple deadnettle spreads by seeds.

Purslane (Portulaca oleracea) ‐ Purslane is a summer annual with prostrate growth from a tap root and fibrous surface roots. The leaves are thick and waxy, resembling a Jade plant. The leaves usually alternate, with a cluster at the tip of the stem. Stems are thick, red in color, and branch out from a central point, forming a mat up to 1 foot in diameter. The flower is solitary, yellow in color and has 5 petals. The flower is found in the leaf axis or at the tip of the stem. Purslane flowers from May to November and spreads by seeds, which germinate in the spring, or by stem fragments.

Redbud (Cercis canadensis) ‐ While a beautiful and desired tree where planted, the profusion of seed pods can create a situation where the redbud self‐sows and pops up in unwanted places, especially close to buildings and in garden areas. Depending on the landscape design and other “right tree, right place” issues, one can leave the tree to grow, move it, or pull it as a weed. If you desire to keep it, remember that the redbud is an understory tree, preferring to grow in the shade of other, larger trees.

Silver Maple (Acer) ‐ The silver maple has prolific seeds‐on‐wings which causes it to self‐sow everywhere. A good tree (and fast growing) while young (up to 40 years old), they get weak wooded when older (40‐100 years), so it is best not to let them grow unless you need short‐term shade (5‐10 years) while waiting for other trees to mature, with a plan to remove it when it matures or starts to crowd out more strong and desirable trees.

Tree of Heaven (Ailanthus altissima) ‐ The tree grows

rapidly and is capable of reaching heights of 50 feet in 25 years. However, the species is also short lived, weak wooded, and rarely lives more than 50 years. It has become an invasive species due to its ability to quickly colonize disturbed areas and suppress competition with allelopathic chemicals. It is considered a noxious weed in Australia, the United States, New Zealand and several countries in southern and eastern Europe. The tree also re‐sprouts vigorously when cut, making its eradication difficult and time consuming.

Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) ‐ Virginia creeper is a perennial deciduous woody vine. There are 5 leaflets in a palmate arrangement. Leaves range in size from 2 ‐ 6 inches and have toothed margins. The leaves turn a bright red in the fall and are often confused with poison ivy. However, poison ivy has only 3 leaflets; Virginia creeper has 5. Virginia creeper can reach heights of 30 ‐ 50 feet. Virginia creeper spreads by seeds deposited by birds. Also, vines spread by attaching tendrils containing adhesive disks on the tips. The stems will root if they come in contact with soil. Flowers are small and white/green. Small pea size blue‐black berries are produced in the fall. The berries develop on red stems and will stay on into the winter providing food for birds.

Wild Onion and Wild Garlic (Allium canadensa and Allium vineale) ‐ These two are both winter perennials. The leaves are waxy, upright and needle shaped growing 8‐12 inches long. The leaves of wild garlic are hollow and round and have a strong odor. The leaves of wild onion are solid and flat and appear directly from the bulb. Both plants grow from underground bulbs. The membrane‐coated bulbs of wild garlic are flattened on one side and have bulblets. Wild onion bulbs are white inside with a strong odor and are covered with a fibrous, scaly coat. The white to light green flowers of wild garlic develop on short stems above aerial bulbs.

Wild onion does not have a stem; white to pink flowers with six eliptical segments. Both wild onion and wild garlic spread by bulbs, seed and bulblets. Both plants flower from April through June.

Wild Strawberry (Fragaria virginiana) ‐ Wild strawberry is a low trailing winter perennial, spreading by stolons. The leaves of wild strawberry are similar to cultivated strawberries. The leaves have toothed margins. The flowers which are produced from April to June are white with yellow stamens and pistils, and contain five petals. The fruit is a red strawberry with many small seeds in pits on the surface. Wild strawberries reproduce from seed and from runners. Each

plant forms multiple runners which root at the nodes and form new plants. Like Creeping Charlie, this plant can really take over a lawn or flower bed.

Wild Violets (Viola pratincola) ‐ Most people think of wild violets as a weed, especially in a lawn, but they can make a nice ground cover when moved (they are easily transplanted) or directed to a specific area. They have beautiful flowers and self‐spread, but are not invasive; they can wilt in an especially dry or sunny situation. Wild violet is a winter perennial, growing 2‐5 inches tall. It can have a tap root or a fibrous root system, and also can produce rooting stolons and rhizomes. The leaves can vary but usually are heart shaped, on long petioles with scalloped or shallow rounded margins. The flowers of the wild violet range from

white, to blue, to purple. The Wild Violets bloom in the warm months, normally from March to June.

The Importance of Trees

Trees have furnished us with two of life's essentials, food and

oxygen. As we evolved, they provided additional necessities such

as shelter, medicine, and tools. In our community, trees have a

social value and are an important part of every community. Our

streets, parks, playgrounds and backyards are lined with trees

that create a peaceful, aesthetically pleasing environment. Trees

increase our quality of life by bringing natural elements and

wildlife habitats into urban settings. We gather under the cool

shade they provide during outdoor activities with family and

friends. Many neighborhoods are also the home of very old trees

that serve as historic landmarks and a great source of town pride.

Trees

contribute to their environment by providing oxygen, improving air

quality, climate amelioration, conserving water, preserving soil, and

supporting wildlife. Trees control climate by moderating the effects

of the sun, rain and wind. Leaves absorb and filter the sun's radiant

energy, keeping things cool in summer. Trees also lower the air

temperature and reduce the heat intensity of the greenhouse effect

by maintaining low levels of carbon dioxide.

Trees provide a personal and spiritual value to any location

where they are planted. The main reason we like trees is because

they are both beautiful and majestic. No two are alike. Different

species display a seemingly endless variety of shapes, forms, textures and vibrant colors. Even individual trees vary their

appearance throughout the course of the year as the seasons change. The strength, long lifespan and regal stature of

trees give them a monument‐like quality. Most of us react to the presence of trees with a pleasant, relaxed, comfortable

feeling.

Trees can provide the following attributes to the Benedict Inn location.

These are:

1. Trees Produce Oxygen

Let's face it, we could not exist as we do if there were no trees. A mature leafy tree produces as much oxygen in a season as 10 people inhale in a year. What many people don't realize is the forest also acts as a giant filter that cleans the air we breathe. Trees and Bridge, Arbor Day Farm. Steve Nix

2. Trees Clean the Soil

The term phytoremediation is a fancy word for the absorption of dangerous chemicals and other pollutants that have entered the soil. Trees can either store harmful pollutants or actually change the pollutant into less harmful forms. Trees filter sewage and farm chemicals, reduce the effects of animal wastes, clean roadside spills and clean water runoff into streams.

3. Trees Control Noise Pollution

Trees muffle urban noise almost as effectively as stone walls. Trees, planted at strategic points in a neighborhood or around your house, can abate major noises from freeways and airports.

4. Trees Slow Storm Water Runoff

Flash flooding can be dramatically reduced by a forest or by planting trees. One Colorado blue spruce, either planted or growing wild, can intercept more than 1000 gallons of water annually when fully grown.

5. Trees Are Carbon Sinks

To produce its food, a tree absorbs and locks away carbon dioxide in the wood, roots and leaves. Carbon dioxide is a global warming suspect. A forest is a carbon storage area or a "sink" that can lock up

as much carbon as it produces. This locking‐up process "stores" carbon as wood and not as an available "greenhouse" gas.

6. Trees Clean the Air

Trees help cleanse the air by intercepting airborne particles, reducing heat, and absorbing such pollutants as carbon monoxide, sulfur dioxide, and nitrogen dioxide.

7. Trees Shade and Cool

Shade resulting in cooling is what a tree is best known for. Shade from trees reduces the need for air conditioning in summer. In winter, trees break the force of winter winds, lowering heating costs. Studies have shown that parts of cities without cooling shade from trees can literally be "heat islands" with temperatures as much as 12 degrees Fahrenheit higher than surrounding areas.

8. Trees Act as Windbreaks

During windy and cold seasons, trees located on the windward side act as windbreaks. A windbreak can lower home heating bills up to 30% and have a significant effect on reducing snow drifts. A reduction in wind can also reduce the drying effect on soil and vegetation behind the windbreak and help keep precious topsoil in place.

9. Trees Fight Soil Erosion

Erosion control has always started with tree and grass planting projects. Tree roots bind the soil and their leaves break the force of wind and rain on soil. Trees fight soil erosion, conserve rainwater and reduce water runoff and sediment deposit after storms.

10. Trees Increase Property Values

Real estate values increase when trees beautify a property or neighborhood. Trees can increase the property value of your home by 15% or more.

Basic Maintenance for Hardscape

The hardscape features in Ringgold Park are as follows:

1) Sun‐shade shelter

2) Pathways

3) Miscellaneous Park Amenities

4) Birdhouses

Maintenance of hardscape will be a regular routine of keeping the site free and clear of any trash or debris that occurs. Weeding the planting areas during its establishment years will be key to the success of the wildflower planting. The areas of crushed limestone within the cedar frames will also need to be keep free of aggressive weeds and may occasionally need topped off with fresh crushed limestone and packed down to prevent erosion.

Contact Information for Project Partners, Businesses and Organizations Involved

(This project ended in 2016, KIB continued partnership will go into 2018)

Note: Please maintain proactive communication with KIB concerning requests for assistance.

Keep Indianapolis Beautiful:

Lauren Wright Great Indy Cleanup Community Coordinator, KIB 1029 Fletcher Ave., Ste. 100 Indianapolis, IN 46203 (317) 264‐7555 x 116 [email protected]

Emily Wood

Director of GreenSpace, KIB

1029 Fletcher Ave., Ste. 100

Indianapolis, IN 46203

(317) 264‐7555 x 120

[email protected]

Adam Schmutte

Stewardship Coordinator, KIB

1029 Fletcher Ave., Ste. 100

Indianapolis, IN 46203

(317) 264‐7555 x 109

[email protected]

GreenSpace Community Committee

Ringgold Park Greenspace

KIB and Project Partner Implementation Agreement

April 18, 2016

This agreement outlines the commitments of each partner and specifies who is responsible for the completion of each

element within Ringgold Park. It is based off of Mader Design’s final design of Ringgold Park. Some elements have

multiple partners working on them, but if one partner cannot fulfill their part, then the other partner is not obligated to

complete the project. Changes to the design of any element should be communicated to the team through email as soon

as the change is identified to keep everyone updated.

1. How we view the space, its name, theme/story:

Ringgold Park or Ringgold Play Grounds had traditionally been a much larger public space located northwest of

the park’s current location spanning 8 city lots. Maps as far back as 1915 show the park as a mixed use space

having everything from bathing pools to baseball diamonds to volleyball courts during its lifespan. Following the

completion of the I‐65 interchange in 1971 the park was moved to its current location and much smaller lot. The

Bates‐Hendricks Neighborhood with Keep Indianapolis Beautiful and IndyParks are looking to bring new life to a

long forgotten public space.

VISION: With the neighborhood of Bates‐Hendricks rapidly changing and growing the community hopes to make

access to greenspace and enjoyable playspaces available to all residents of the neighborhood. Through

reimaging the current playground the Bates‐Hendricks Neighborhood will look to make long term improvements

to the quality of experience when visiting the park. Not only will the visual experience be enhanced by new

plantings and trees, but the community will work toward raising funds for an updated playscape, sun shades,

and pathways

2. Native plants and trees – KIB Responsibility

specific species – colorful, shade trees, fruit (blackberry), wildflowers, four seasons of beauty

remove trees where necessary

3. Shelter ‐ BHNA responsibility

Sun‐shade structure

IndyParks approval needed

4. Pathways – BHNA and KIB responsibility

pathways – planned concrete pathway

footpath or mulch path through native planting to be supplied and created with KIB


5. Miscellaneous Park Amenities‐ BHNA Responsibility Other park amenities such as, but not limited to, benches, tables, signage, and other features needing extraneous funding. IndyParks approval needed

6. Birdhouses – KIB Responsibility Birdhouses – exact number and style to be determined, BHNA to assist in completion of houses


7. Watering & Basic Maintenance – BHNA Responsibility

When beds are created and plants installed, BHNA will help water the plants and weed the beds through 2016. A

formal Maintenance Agreement will be developed in 2017 to define the ongoing stewardship partnership

between KIB and BHNA.

8. Safety—KIB and BHNA responsibility

KIB will work to address safety hazards during its portions of construction of the park. BHNA will communicate

with KIB in the event that unforeseen safety solutions are needed, and both parties will work to ensure

implementation. Further specific commitments should be established in email or written documents.

In signing KIB’s volunteer waiver, all volunteers will be covered under KIB’s liability insurance, contingent on the

presence of a KIB staff at the project.

___________________________________________________________________________________

We agree to support the above design and implementation outline. Any changes to this should be agreed upon in an

amendment to this agreement.

Keep Indianapolis Beautiful, Inc.

_______________________________

Emily Wood Date

_______________________________

Lauren Wright Date

Bates‐Hendricks Steering Committee

_______________________________

Sara Hess Date

_______________________________

Nicole C. Markle Date

_______________________________

Nick Zimmerman Date

_______________________________

Kate Voss Date

_______________________________

John Winter Date

_______________________________

Katlyn Kilgore Date

_______________________________

Kelly Harris Date

IMPLEMENTATION AGREEMENT ADDENDUM. Upon completion of Ringgold Park, this is to confirm that

the place elements outlined in the Implementation Agreement were fully completed at the space (check

those that are done). Anything not completed by December 31, 2016 should be noted here with either a

comment explaining why, and if applicable, outlining a timetable and plan for finishing it in 2017 or

beyond.

o Native plants and trees – KIB Responsibility

_____

____________

o Shelter ‐ BHNA responsibility

_____________

o Pathways – BHNA responsibility

______

o Miscellaneous Park Amenities – BHNA Responsibility

_______________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

_____________

o Birdhouses – KIB/BHNA responsibility

_____________

o Watering and Maintenance ‐ BHNA Responsibility

_________________________________________________

______________________________________________________________________________

_____________

Initials:

___________ ___________ ___________ ___________ ___________ ___________

___________

Sara Hess Nicole C. Markle Kate Voss Nick Zimmerman John Winter Emily Wood

Lauren Wright

____________ _______________

Kelly Harris Katlyn Kilgore

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Annual Report (Not all activities apply to all projects) Each recipient of a KIB IPL Project GreenSpace grant is required to submit an annual report to KIB each year (due by December 31st). This helps us to stay in touch and help support your community space. They following are required and suggested components of that report: Required: 1) Photos of the space being used as intended. (Everyone in photos must be made aware that KIB may use these for PR) 2) Track volunteer hours and dates spent by the Project Partner on workdays other than KIB coordinated workdays. 3) Review your Project Maintenance Plan and inform KIB about any modifications from the plan submitted at the beginning of the grant, based on early experience with the project. 4) In your report, please provide feedback on the following:

Did your expectations of how the space would look and/or be used change through the design process? After completion?

Has the created space met your project space goals? If not, why not? Were there any surprises, physical or social, good or bad? Share an inspiring story about an individual, or an experience you/your neighborhood has had in

your space or while developing your space? How has the project affected the dynamics of your community? Has the intended use of the space changed? Have new activities sprung up that were not

considered before? Any planned activities dropped? How are the maintenance activities going? Any surprises, good or bad? What has turned out to

be the easiest thing to do? The hardest? How are you recruiting or welcoming new individuals to use this space? How are you recruiting

or welcoming new individuals to help maintain this space? In moving ahead to achieve your long‐term vision, what should KIB be aware of to assist you in

your efforts to continue making the space a success? Please end the report by listing the individuals on the planning/implementation committee(s).

Please include name, email and/or phone number and signature of each person. Submission of this report is required annually and will ensure a continued successful partnership between you and KIB.

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GreenSpace Alumni Club

Overview A network of GreenSpace partners that share experiences, work together and provide support for the long-term stewardship of their place.

This program is designed to develop an opportunity for KIB to serve past GreenSpace partners in a more clear-cut way in years two and three and beyond. It will also inform KIB about what we could better for new greenspace projects. It will help to achieve the following:

a. Is a means/mechanism for us to follow-up on measurable/metrics. b. Retrieve feedback from them. c. To inform KIB of events and projects so we can promote their continued work

appropriately.

Modeled slightly after Indiana Landmarks’ Affiliate Council. http://www.indianalandmarks.org/AboutUs/Initiatives/Pages/AffiliateCouncil.aspx See benefits section for reference.

The following are outcomes and benefits for past GreenSpace partners.

1) Greater communication and hence engagement between neighborhoods. a. Building a network between our GreenSpace partners similar to what AAB does within

neighborhoods. b. Create opportunities for sharing plants/perennials, mulch/watering needs,

programming coordination, insurance information between projects. c. Greater support and guidance for maintenance ideas. d. Roundtable discussions to share upcoming events, stories of success and challenges etc.

2) Expands potential projects and neighborhood building. a. Learn what the next steps are for neighborhood work, i.e. Windsor Park or Millersville

where we went onto the next project. b. Identification of GIC projects.

3) Hear about current events from guest speakers at Club meetings or share information about issues facing our neighborhoods.

4) Potential opportunities for future vendor discounts. 5) Eligibility to apply to the Stewardship Assistance Program (SAP)

REQUIREMENTS 1. 3-4 Meetings – Once a quarter 2. Featured Topic / Updates & relevant issue 3. Conversations on topics 4. Roundtable discussions: Successes / Challenges 5. Programming

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GreenSpace Stewardship Assistance Program (SAP)

Overview Past project partners can apply for assistance Can ask for up to $500 Our general fund will be $2500 total but will not be disclosed First-come, first-served basis No application deadline Only open to Alumni Club members Non-matching grant, partners do not need to fundraise

Neighborhood Benefits Encourages partnership building for neighborhoods

Cost breaks from Lowes, Tiffany, etc… Available funding for maintaining their space.

KIB Benefits Becomes a reporting tool for past projects Neighborhoods will be responsible for all work, therefore does not increase our capacity Provides assistance to promote long-term project success Incentivizes Alumni-Club participation Re-engagement

Requirements: Detailed material cost quote.

Grant covers specific material costs based on quote Receipts must be provided Reimburse when possible, but if neighbors are not able to cover costs up front we can

make arrangement. Must complete work within certain timeframe.

Applicant must fill out application that doubles as reporting tool for KIB Includes photos and stories

Must do work, KIB does not bring tools or volunteers—only monetary support Purely maintenance, not new or additional purchases. Can only apply once per calendar year.

Facebook Group:

Ashlee to help set up Joe to email all GS and KIB Clubs the online brochure and the facebook invite Early June + followup

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Project Photographs

Rediscovering Ringgold Park

Bates‐Hendricks is a neighborhood visibly growing greener each spring. You might say we’ve developed a knack for

creating and enhancing inspiring green spaces. In recent years, residents and partners, such as KIB, have tackled and

improved everything from existing city parks and medians to rugged empty lots. Boldly bearing the title “An Indianapolis

Garden District” in the Miracle Mile Parade this year, we’ve got the parks to prove it: Baumann, Czerny, Hendricks,

Orange, as well as School 31 Garden, New Jersey Street Esplanade…to name just a few of our green spaces.

The BHNA approach to reshaping earth is far from haphazard. Before undertaking a project, leadership works to ensure changes are sensitive to traces of the past, reflective of current needs, and striving to meet the anticipated desires of the future. That’s why when long‐time residents’ fond recollections of Ringgold Park reached the ears of BHNA leadership, research and reflection on the journey of the park ensued.

Currently located at the corner of Cottage and Ringgold Avenues, the relocated park is a downsized victim of transportation development and a shadow of its former self. Using local history collections of several Indy institutions and the Drawings and Documents Archive at Ball State University’s College of Architecture and Planning, here’s what was discovered:

GOOGLE MAPS WITH GRAPHIC OF APPROXIMATE ORIGINAL LOCATION, 2014

CHRONOLOGY 19XX: park established sometime in the early 20th century 1915: Ringgold Play Grounds is detailed on the Indianapolis Sanborn Map #144, 1915. A bathing pool is depicted. A playground block (with residential plats to the north and south) is bordered by Cottage, Ringgold, Orange, and presumably Hartford Street.

INDIANAPOLIS SANBORN MAP #144, 1915 (INDIANAPOLIS SANBORN MAPS, IUPUI)

1916: Baist Atlas Plan depiction of park is consistent with the 1915 Sanborn map. Hartford can be confirmed as fourth border street.

INDIANAPOLIS BAIST ATLAS PLAN # 19, 1916 (INDIANAPOLIS SANBORN MAPS, IUPUI) 1927: Baist Atlas Plan consistent with the 1916 map. 1936: The park is depicted on a March 25, 1936 Indianapolis Parks plan. A 0.9 acre playground (Playground, Ringgold Ave) is bordered by residential plats to the north and south (south configuration changed). The border streets are Cottage, Ringgold, Orange, and Hartford. Details (swings, volleyball court, etc.) are penciled in on the plan. A bathing pool is no longer depicted.

INDIANAPOLIS PARKS DEPARTMENT LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTURAL RECORDS 1898‐1988 DRAWINGS + DOCUMENTS ARCHIVE, BALL STATE UNIVERSITY

CONCRETE SLAB / COMFORT STATION 1937, HTTP://MAPS.INDY.GOV/MAPINDY/ INDIANAPOLIS PARKS DEPARTMENT LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTURAL RECORDS 1898‐1988 DRAWINGS + DOCUMENTS ARCHIVE, BALL STATE UNIVERSITY

1956: The park is depicted in the original location on a Sanborn map and MapIndy aerial views.

1956, HTTP://MAPS.INDY.GOV/MAPINDY/ 1968‐1971: I‐65 interchange construction. Whether the park was relocated to 2014 location during this phase is unknown. 1978: Interstate complete, as per MapIndy aerial view, and a green space at the park’s current location is discernable.

1978, HTTP://MAPS.INDY.GOV/MAPINDY/

Baseball diamond or other feature?

RESOURCE LINKS

INDIANAPOLIS PARKS DEPARTMENT LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTURAL RECORDS 1898‐1988

(BALL STATE UNIVERSITY DRAWINGS + DOCUMENTS ARCHIVE)

This collection is not digitally available through the archive website, but the 1936 plan pictured throughout this

document follows on the next page.

Catalog no. 40‐113 Storage code(s) OVB bx

Project title: Ringgold playground

Location: Indianapolis, Marion Co., IN

Authorship, year: 1936

Records >> Working dwg. ‐‐ 1 sheet: ink on vellum; 16 x 22 in

Parks Collection Guide: http://cms.bsu.edu/‐/media/WWW/DepartmentalContent/Library/DrawingsDocs/CollectionGuides/DADA%20040_IndianpolisParks_CollectionGuide_2012.pdf

Online database to search Drawings + Documents Collections:

http://www.bsu.edu/libraries/dda/index.php

AERIAL PHOTOGRAPHY (CITY OF INDIANAPOLIS AND MARION COUNTY)

http://maps.indy.gov/Mapindy/

Selected desired year and pan to the Ringgold area.

INDIANAPOLIS SANBORN MAPS (IUPUI CENTER FOR DIGITAL SCHOLARSHIP)

Collection home: http://ulib.iupui.edu/digitalscholarship/collections/sanbornjp2

Indianapolis Sanborn Map #144, 1915

http://indiamond6.ulib.iupui.edu/cdm/singleitem/collection/SanbornJP2/id/2158/rec/5

Indianapolis Baist Atlas Plan # 19, 1916


Indianapolis Baist Atlas Plan # 19, 1927


Indianapolis Sanborn Map #144, 1956
