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ISSN 13921320 MATERIALS SCIENCE (MEDIAGOTYRA). Vol. 17, No. 3. 2011

Pilling Resistance of Knitted Fabrics

Gita BUSILIEN, Kstutis LEKECKAS, Virginijus URBELISDepartment of Clothing and Polymer Products Tecnology, Kaunas University of Technology,Student 56, LT-51424 Kaunas, Lithuania

Received 02 November 2010; accepted 02 July 2011

Knitted fabrics with different quantity of elastane, conspicuous by high viscosity and elasticity, having one of themost important performance properties resistance to pilling are often used in the production of high quality

sportswear. During technological process imitating operating conditions, the behaviour of knitted fabrics may bechanged by different industrial softeners from 12 % to 20 % of active substance, for example fatty acid condensate

(Tubingal 5051) or silicone micro emulsion (Tubingal SMF). The aim of this investigation is to define the influenceof fibrous composition and chemical softeners to the propensity of fuzzing and pilling of plain and plated jerseypattern knitted fabrics. The results of investigations showed that fibrous composition and thickness of materials

(up to 6 %) and washing as well as softening (from 33 % to 67 %) change the resistance of knitted fabrics to pilling.Keywords: textile, knitted fabrics, pilling, chemical softening.

INTRODUCTION

Products of knitted fabric are characterized as being

elastic, resilient, soft, they have good draping properties,

and cling well to body to inhibit movement. However,

during exploitation, pills form on the surface of the knitted

fabric, remaining on the surface of the product and

worsening its exterior. The process of formation of pills

consists of three stages [1]: due to mechanical impact to

the surface of rasped products, firstly, the tips of several

fibres of fibre are pulled out creating a fuzzy surface.

Later, broken fibres grip to felt tips and forms separate,

gradually growing pills. Fibres holding these pills aregriped strongly, later however, due to the further

mechanical impact (attrition, washing and other) they may

rub away and fall off.

The resistance of knitted fabrics to pilling depends on

the density of fabric, i.e. when the length of knitted fabric

loop decreases and the surface density increases, the

resistance to pilling grows [2, 3]. When analysing the

influence of weave to propensity of pilling and fuzzing of

knitted fabrics, it was defined that rib knitted fabrics were

resistant to pilling most of all, interlock knitted fabrics are

less resistant, and plain weave knitted fabrics are tend to

pilling more [26]. It was defined in previous works that

the twist, fuzzing, quantity of fibers, cross-section structureof knitted fabric change resistance to pilling: when the

twist of yarn is bigger, the fuzzing of fabric then decreases

[78]. Properly selected formation way of yarn, fabric

weave and facing can improve the quality of knitted fabric

[9]. Washing intensity the process of pilling [10] which

varies depending on chemical softeners used during

washing [11], however, their influence to above-mentioned

process is not fully investigated.

The aim of the work was to define the influence of

fibrous composition and chemical softeners on of fuzzing

and pilling of knitted fabrics.

Corresponding author Tel.: +370-620-88113; fax: +370-37-353989.

E-mail address:gita.busiliene@stud.ktu.lt(G. Busilien)

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Knitted fabrics of different fibrous composition made

of natural (cotton), artificial (reclaimed bamboo, viscose)

and synthetic (polyester, polyamide) fibre were analysed in

the present work (Table 1). The structure of the

investigated objects was reseached referring the standards

as follows: defining of the fiber content LST EN ISO

1833; measuring of the density LST EN ISO

14971:2006; defining of the loop length LST EN

14970:2006; measuring of the surface density LST EN

12127:1999; measuring of the thickness LST EN ISO

5084:2000. The change of the thickness was definedusing the thickness gauge SCMIDT DPT 60 DIGITAL, theprecise class 0.01 mm: 1, when p1= 1 kPa; 2, whenp2= 5 kPa.The surface density and thickness of plain andplated jersey pattern knitted fabrics chosen for the

investigation are similar, respectively from 202 g/m2 to

222 g/m2 and from 0.56 mm to 0.79 mm. Some fabrics

have different quantity of elastane (EL), and this enable to

determine its impact to pilling of knitted fabrics.

To evaluate the influence of washing and chemical

softeners to propensity of fuzzing and pilling of knitted

fabrics, the washing procedure of a specimens

(40 cm 50 cm) was performed, according to the standard

ISO 6330:2000 [12]. After the washing, specimens wererinsed in baths with two different softeners: fatty acid

condensate (Tubingal 5051) or silicone micro emulsion

(Tubingal SMF). The composition of washing agent and

softeners as well as the recipe are submitted in Table 2.

The scheme of procedure of knitted fabrics washing and

softening using two different softeners is submitted in

Figure 1.

The propensity to pill and fuzz of dry (control) and

washed as well as softened knitted fabrics was defined

following modified Martindale method (standard ISO

12945-2:2000) [13]. Before the investigation all specimens

were held in standard conditioned conditions

(= 65 % 2 %, T= 20C 2C) according to therequirements of standard ISO 139:2005 [14].

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Table 1.Characteristics of investigated knitted fabrics

Fabricsymbol

Composition Pattern

DensityLoop

length,

mm

Surfacedensity,

g/m2

Thickness1, mm

Thicknesschange

, %Course dir.P

c, dm1

Wale dir.P

w, dm1

M1 95 % PES, 5 % EL

Plainand

platedjersey

245 150 2.76 202 0.56 -

M2 90 % PES, 10 % EL 250 155 2.88 211 0.63 3.2M3 87 % PES, 13 % EL 340 200 2.48 219 0.59 3.4

M4 95 % PA, 5 % EL 245 175 2.80 214 0.57 1.8

M5 90 % PA, 10 % EL 205 155 3.10 205 0.70 5.7

M6 95 % Viskose, 5 % EL 215 155 2.83 206 0.79 8.9

M7 92 % Viscose, 8 % EL 230 160 2.81 208 0.62 9.7

M8 88 % Viscose, 12 % EL 310 175 2.62 210 0.59 11.9

M9 95 % Cotton, 5 % EL 265 160 2.75 222 0.77 3.9

M10 95 % Bamboo, 5 % EL 215 170 2.53 215 0.56 3.6

Table 2.Chemical character (structure) and recipe proposals of washing agent and softeners

Washing agent//softener title

Character Chemical character AppearanceIonic

CharacterRecipe Proposals

BEICLEAN

RG-N

Low-foaming washing

and emulsifying agent

Modified fatty

alcohol ethoxylates

Colourless

liquidNonionic ml/kg (dry laundry):

10 ml BEICLEAN RG-N and5 ml BEIMPLEX NWS (both

mixing approx 30C of water),value pH ~ 7

BEIMPLEX

NWS

Detergency booster for

Professional textile care

Polycarboxylates,

phosphates

Clear, pale

yellowliquid

Anionic

TUBINGAL 5051

Hydrophylic softener

concentrate, soluble incold water

Fatty acid

condensationproduct

Light

yellowliquid

Cationic

ml/l:120 ml softener/

/880 ml of soft water (approx.40C), value pH = 4.5

TUBINGAL SMF

Softener and additive

for the final finish oftextiles, preferably used

for padding mangleapplications

Functionalpolysiloxanes,micro-emulsified

Transparent,colourlessliquid

Nonionic

g/l:

1 g of softener/0.,5 g of aceticacid (100 %) or 3 g of acetic

acid (9 %) (approx 40C ofwater), value pH = 5.5

During the experiment, using standard photos,

specimens were evaluated after every 1000 rotation cycle

giving the following grades: grade 5 surface did not

change; 4 insignificant fuzzing on the surface and (or)

partially formed pills; 3 medium fuzzing on the surface

and (or) medium pilling. Pills of different size and density

partially cover the surface of specimen; 2 significant

fuzzing on the surface and (or) significant pilling. Pills of

different size and density cover a large part of the surface

of specimen; 1 particularly significant fuzzing on the

surface and (or) significant pilling. Pills of different size

and density cover all the surface of specimen.

Fig. 1.Scheme of the knitted fabrics washing and softening procedure

Washed in automaticwashing machine

Washing agent:

BEICLEAN RG-Nand addition

BEIPLEX NWS

Duration: 31 min.Temperature: 40C

Cycle.: 5

Rinsed in a bath

Softeners:

TUBINGAL 5051(fatty acid

condensation product)

TUBINGAL SMF(functional

polysiloxanes,micro-emulsified)

Duration: 20 min.Temperature: 40C

Centrifuging

Duration: 10 min.

Spin speed/rpm.: 600Cycle.: 5

MarkingDrying in horizontal

pozition

Duration:t> 10 h

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The Martindale abrasion device forces the directing

plate of specimens holder to draw the figure of Lissajous.

The movement of Lissajous is changing from the circle till

the gradually narrowing ellipse, and finally becomes line,

from which again the ellipse is formatting obliquely in the

opposite direction up to the picture repeates. The pilling

revolution is considered each rotation, and 16 rotations is

considered as Lissajous figure.

When defining grade 1 of pilling of each fabric

corresponding the number of revolution (P), the

experiment was repeated with two times less the number of

revolutions (TP). This allowed to verification of the results

within the range of insignificant pilling and to prepare

specimens for further investigation.

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

To define the propensity of fabrics to fuzz and pill, the

results of investigation of control (P and TP) and washed

(Figure 1) knitted fabrics (Table 1) as well as softened in

different softeners (Table 2) were compared.

Knitted fabrics from PES fibres M1 and M2 have thegreatest resistance to fuzzing and pilling: their propensity

to fuzz and pill to grade 1 was not determined even after

14000 revolutions (Figure 2). Knitted fabric M3 (87 %

PES and 13 % EL) is of a very high quality and resistant,

after only 14000 revolutions it was evaluated by grade 1,

while the maximum recommended number of revolutions

in the standard is 7000. Knitted fabrics M1M3 resistance

to propensity of fuzzing and pilling is determined by the

structure of yarn it is composed influenced by fiber

content [3]: M1 composed from PES fibers (16.7 tex)

and elastane (2.2 tex), M2 composed from PES fibers

(16.7 tex, 96 filaments) and elastane (4.4 tex), M3

composed from PES fibers (11 tex, 164 filaments) and

elastane (4.4 tex). The exclusiveness of all three fabrics

was also determined by the pattern - plain and plated jersey

pattern. The elastane is inserted into the each line of the

knitted fabric, for other investigated fabrics, into each

second line. Thus, during the pilling investigation of the

fabrics M1 M3, they scrubbed only the polyester layer,

thats on the top, while the lower level, knitted with the

elastane fiber, remained not touched. Therefore elastanefiber, depending on its quantity in the fabric more or less

pulls, makes a more thick the polyester top layer [5].

Knitted fabrics M4 and M5 are from polyamide fibres,

however their resistance to pilling is different, pilling of

knitted fabric M4 (5 % EL) is evaluated by grade 4 after

the achievement of 14000 revolutions, while fabric M5

(10 % EL) grade 1 just after 5000 revolutions. Fabric M4

differs from fabric M5 by special method of facing which

changes the resistance of the fabric surface to mechanical

influence. It is suggested, that resistance to the pilling of

the fabrics M4 and M5 differs significantly because of the

fiber content and structure differences: M4 is made from

polyamide 6,6 (7.8 tex from tow fibers) and elastane

(2.2 tex.), and M5 from polyamide (16.9 tex) and

elastane (4.4 tex). The fabric M5 is more thicker with a

lower density than fabric M4. When sampling during

scrabbling the surface contacts more close to the device top

part. The loops of the fabric M5, characterised by lessdensity and bigger loop length, are easier going out with

faster fuzzing as well breaking and is less influenced and

less resistance to pilling [2, 3]. The fabric M4 is more

resistant to pilling than M5, because of its pattern, plain

and plated jersey pattern, when elastane is inserted into the

each line of knitted fabric, the elastane fiber is not

scrabbled directly.

The pattern of the fabric M4 is plain and plated jersey

pattern, when elastane is inserted into the each second line

of the knitted fabric. Knitted fabric M5 from polyamidefibres is similar to knitted fabrics (M6 and M8) from

viscose fibres by its resistance to pilling because

permissible pilling grade 3 was achieved from 2000 to3000 of revolutions, and grade 1 after 5000 revolutions.

Fabric M3 from cotton fibres is of similar resistance to

pilling (grade 3 was achieved after 2000 revolutions),

however it was evaluated by pilling grade 1 after 6000

revolutions.

Tested knitted fabrics

0

1000

2000

3000

4000

5000

6000

7000

8000

9000

10000

11000

12000

13000

14000

15000

M 1 M 2 M 3 M 4 M 5 M 6 M 7 M 8 M 9 M 10

Numberofrevolu

tions

1

1 1

1

1

1

1

4 4 4

Fig. 2. Investigation (P) results change of knitted fabric propensity to surface fuzzing and to pilling (on five grades of pilling from 5

to 1): 5; 5/4; 4; 4/3; 3; 3/2; 2; 2/1; 1

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02468

1012

2000 4000 6000 8000 10000 12000 14000Number of revolutions

,%

r = 0.681M8

M6M7M5

M9M10 M2M3

M4M1 0

2 46 8

1012

3 6 9 12 15Amount of elastane, %

r = 0.948

r= 0.984,

%

PES, EL

VI EL

a b

Fig. 3. Relationship between the change of thickness of knitted fabrics and number of rotations (a) corresponding maximum pillinggrade and quantity of elastane in fabric (b)

The propensity to fuzz and pill of fabrics M7 (from

viscose fibres) and M10 (from reclaimed bamboo fibres) is

undesirably large: after just 1000 revolutions, specimenswere evaluated by grade 3, and after 3000 revolutions by

grade 1.

The obtained results showed that the resistance of

fabrics which differ by its main fibrous composition (EL

5 %) to propensity of pilling is different. Specimens of

fabrics from PES and PA fibres were evaluated by grade 4

only after 14000 revolutions, while fabrics from viscose

(M6) and cotton (M9) fibres achieved pilling grade 4 after

just 1000 revolutions. The worst result was in fabrics of

reclaimed bamboo fibres (M10) which achieved pilling

grade 3 after just 1000 revolutions.

The influence of fabric softness to their resistance to

pilling, it was defined that when a change of fabricthickness increases (), their resistance to pillingdecreases (Fig. 3, a) [3, 4, 7]. The exception is the results

of investigation of knitted fabrics M9 and M10 which are

determined by fibrous composition of the fabric. The

influence of change of thickness to pilling of fabrics

strongly correlates (r= 0.984) when comparing the results

of knitted fabrics from PES and PA fibres. Strong linear

dependence (r= 0.903) between change of thickness andresistance to pilling was obtained comparing the results of

fabrics from PES and viscose fibres.

When the quantity of elastane increases in the

composition of knitted fabrics, the change of thickness

increases (Fig. 3, b) [5], and the resistance to pillingdecreases (Fig. 2). For example, when the quantity of

elastane of knitted fabrics M1, M2, M3 changes

respectively 5 %, 10 % and 13 %, it changes the thickness

0 %, 3.2 % and 3.4 %. First insignificant changes of the

surface of fabric M1 were observed after 6000 rotations

(grade 4), M2 fabric just after 1000 rotations was evaluated

between grade 5 and 4, and evaluated by grade 4 after

3000 rotations. Figure 2 shows how the resistance to

pilling of knitted fabric M3 differs comparing it with M1

and M2. The influence of washing (after 5 cycles) and

softening using two different softeners (fatty acid

condensate and silicone micro emulsion softener) to

propensity of knitted fabrics fuzzing and pilling, it wasdefined that the procedure of washing and softening

increases the propensity of knitted fabrics to pilling

(Fig. 4) [10, 11]: the propensity of pilling of M3,

M5 M10 knitted fabrics increases from 33 % to 67 %.

Washing and processing using chemical softeners do not

have substantial influence to the propensity of pilling of

knitted fabrics M1, M2 and M4.

Subjective pilling evaluation method applied in the

investigation did not allow to define substantial differences

between the results of a specimens influenced by different

Tested knitted fabrics

0

2000

4000

6000

8000

10000

12000

14000

M 1 M 2 M 3 M 4 M 5 M 6 M 7 M 8 M 9 M 10

Numberofrevolution

4 3 4 4

4/3 3 1 3/2

1

4 4 4/3

1

11

1

1

1

11 1

1

1

1

1

1111

1

Fig. 4.The results of investigation of maximum propensity of pilling and fuzzing of knitted fabrics (P): control specimens;

washed and softened using fatty acid condensate; washed and softened using silicone micro emulsion softener

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Tested knitted fabrics01000

200030004000500060007000

M3 M5 M6 M7 M8 M9 M10

Numberofrevolutions 4 /3 4 /3

43

3 3

4/3

3 3 3 3 33

33

3

3

3 3/2

3 3

Fig. 5. The results of investigation of permissible propensity of knitted fabrics to fuzz and pill (TP), when the number of cycles isdecreased halfway: control specimens; washed and softened using fatty acid condensate; washed and softened usingsilicone micro emulsion softener

softeners. The exception is the results of knitted fabrics

M3, M8 and M9 which showed that specimens softened by

fatty acid condensate are more resistant to pilling than a

specimen softened by silicone micro emulsion softener.

After the performance of additional experiment, whenthe number of rotations is twice less than all knitted

fabrics, it was defined that the influence of washing and

softening to pilling of knitted fabrics remains tendentious

(Figure 5). When applying the number of rotations which

was twice less than all investigated fabrics, the lower

evaluation of resistance to pilling is up to grade 3 and it

confirms that fabrics can be exploitable further.

CONCLUSIONS

Knitted fabrics from PES fibres have the greatest

resistance to pilling as their resistance is influenced by

fibre structure and facing. Investigated knitted fabrics fromviscose and reclaimed bamboo fibres have the lowest

resistance to pilling. Knitted fabrics from reclaimed

bamboo fibre distinguished by quickest pilling process:

just after 1000 revolutions it was evaluated by pilling

grade 3. When the change of knitted fabric thicknessincreases up to 9.7 % the resistance to pilling decreases up

to 64 %. It defined a stronger linear dependence between

the quantity of elastane in investigated knitted fabrics and

thickness change confirms that the quantity of above-

mentioned fibre has influence to pilling.

The procedure of washing and softening worsened the

resistance to pilling of investigated knitted fabrics from

33 % to 67 %. Fabrics M3, M8 and M9 softened usingfatty acid concentrate are from 25 % to 50 % resistant to

pilling than fabrics softened using silicone micro emulsion

softener. In case of other investigated fabrics, substantial

differences were not defined.

REFERENCES

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2. Gykyt, I., Strazdien, E., Titas, R., Urbelis, V. Pilling ofKnitted Materials MaterialsScience (Mediagotyra) ISSN1392-1320 8 (3) 2002: pp. 316319.

3. Mikuionien, D.The Influence of Structure Parameters ofWeft Knitted Fabrics on Propensity to Pilling MaterialsScience (Mediagotyra) ISSN 1392-1320 15 (4) 2009:pp. 335338.

4. Candan, C., nal, L. Dimensional, Pilling and AbrasionProperties of Weft Knits Made from Open-End and RingSpun Yarns Textile Research Journal 72 (2) 2002:pp. 164169.

5. Abramaviit, J., Mikuionien, D., iukas, R.Structureproperties of Knits from Natural Yarns and their

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8. Ceken, F. Pilling of Flat Knitted Fabrics KnittingTechnology 2 2000: pp. 1617.

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10. Nergis, B. U., Beceren, Y. Visual Evaluation of the Surfaceof Tencel/Cotton Blend Fabrics in Production and CleaningProcesses Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe 3 (68)2008: pp. 3943.

11. elik, N., Deirmenci, Z., Kaynak, H. K. Effect of NanoSoftener on Abrasion and Pilling Resistance and ColorFastness of Knitted Fabrics Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon 1 2010:pp. 4147.

12. ISO 6330:2000 Textiles Domestic Washing and DryingProcedures for Textile Testing.

13. ISO 12945-2:2000 Textiles Determination of FabriccPropensity to Surface Fuzzing and to Pilling Part 2:

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Presented at the National Conference "Materials Engineering2010"(Kaunas, Lithuania, November 19, 2010)