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  • 8/12/2019 15 Textile...(pp.297-301)

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    ISSN 13921320 MATERIALS SCIENCE (MEDIAGOTYRA). Vol. 17, No. 3. 2011

    Pilling Resistance of Knitted Fabrics

    Gita BUSILIEN, Kstutis LEKECKAS, Virginijus URBELISDepartment of Clothing and Polymer Products Tecnology, Kaunas University of Technology,Student 56, LT-51424 Kaunas, Lithuania

    Received 02 November 2010; accepted 02 July 2011

    Knitted fabrics with different quantity of elastane, conspicuous by high viscosity and elasticity, having one of themost important performance properties resistance to pilling are often used in the production of high quality

    sportswear. During technological process imitating operating conditions, the behaviour of knitted fabrics may bechanged by different industrial softeners from 12 % to 20 % of active substance, for example fatty acid condensate

    (Tubingal 5051) or silicone micro emulsion (Tubingal SMF). The aim of this investigation is to define the influenceof fibrous composition and chemical softeners to the propensity of fuzzing and pilling of plain and plated jerseypattern knitted fabrics. The results of investigations showed that fibrous composition and thickness of materials

    (up to 6 %) and washing as well as softening (from 33 % to 67 %) change the resistance of knitted fabrics to pilling.Keywords: textile, knitted fabrics, pilling, chemical softening.

    INTRODUCTION

    Products of knitted fabric are characterized as being

    elastic, resilient, soft, they have good draping properties,

    and cling well to body to inhibit movement. However,

    during exploitation, pills form on the surface of the knitted

    fabric, remaining on the surface of the product and

    worsening its exterior. The process of formation of pills

    consists of three stages [1]: due to mechanical impact to

    the surface of rasped products, firstly, the tips of several

    fibres of fibre are pulled out creating a fuzzy surface.

    Later, broken fibres grip to felt tips and forms separate,

    gradually growing pills. Fibres holding these pills aregriped strongly, later however, due to the further

    mechanical impact (attrition, washing and other) they may

    rub away and fall off.

    The resistance of knitted fabrics to pilling depends on

    the density of fabric, i.e. when the length of knitted fabric

    loop decreases and the surface density increases, the

    resistance to pilling grows [2, 3]. When analysing the

    influence of weave to propensity of pilling and fuzzing of

    knitted fabrics, it was defined that rib knitted fabrics were

    resistant to pilling most of all, interlock knitted fabrics are

    less resistant, and plain weave knitted fabrics are tend to

    pilling more [26]. It was defined in previous works that

    the twist, fuzzing, quantity of fibers, cross-section structureof knitted fabric change resistance to pilling: when the

    twist of yarn is bigger, the fuzzing of fabric then decreases

    [78]. Properly selected formation way of yarn, fabric

    weave and facing can improve the quality of knitted fabric

    [9]. Washing intensity the process of pilling [10] which

    varies depending on chemical softeners used during

    washing [11], however, their influence to above-mentioned

    process is not fully investigated.

    The aim of the work was to define the influence of

    fibrous composition and chemical softeners on of fuzzing

    and pilling of knitted fabrics.

    Corresponding author Tel.: +370-620-88113; fax: +370-37-353989.

    E-mail address:[email protected](G. Busilien)

    MATERIALS AND METHODS

    Knitted fabrics of different fibrous composition made

    of natural (cotton), artificial (reclaimed bamboo, viscose)

    and synthetic (polyester, polyamide) fibre were analysed in

    the present work (Table 1). The structure of the

    investigated objects was reseached referring the standards

    as follows: defining of the fiber content LST EN ISO

    1833; measuring of the density LST EN ISO

    14971:2006; defining of the loop length LST EN

    14970:2006; measuring of the surface density LST EN

    12127:1999; measuring of the thickness LST EN ISO

    5084:2000. The change of the thickness was definedusing the thickness gauge SCMIDT DPT 60 DIGITAL, theprecise class 0.01 mm: 1, when p1= 1 kPa; 2, whenp2= 5 kPa.The surface density and thickness of plain andplated jersey pattern knitted fabrics chosen for the

    investigation are similar, respectively from 202 g/m2 to

    222 g/m2 and from 0.56 mm to 0.79 mm. Some fabrics

    have different quantity of elastane (EL), and this enable to

    determine its impact to pilling of knitted fabrics.

    To evaluate the influence of washing and chemical

    softeners to propensity of fuzzing and pilling of knitted

    fabrics, the washing procedure of a specimens

    (40 cm 50 cm) was performed, according to the standard

    ISO 6330:2000 [12]. After the washing, specimens wererinsed in baths with two different softeners: fatty acid

    condensate (Tubingal 5051) or silicone micro emulsion

    (Tubingal SMF). The composition of washing agent and

    softeners as well as the recipe are submitted in Table 2.

    The scheme of procedure of knitted fabrics washing and

    softening using two different softeners is submitted in

    Figure 1.

    The propensity to pill and fuzz of dry (control) and

    washed as well as softened knitted fabrics was defined

    following modified Martindale method (standard ISO

    12945-2:2000) [13]. Before the investigation all specimens

    were held in standard conditioned conditions

    (= 65 % 2 %, T= 20C 2C) according to therequirements of standard ISO 139:2005 [14].

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    Table 1.Characteristics of investigated knitted fabrics

    Fabricsymbol

    Composition Pattern

    DensityLoop

    length,

    mm

    Surfacedensity,

    g/m2

    Thickness1, mm

    Thicknesschange

    , %Course dir.P

    c, dm1

    Wale dir.P

    w, dm1

    M1 95 % PES, 5 % EL

    Plainand

    platedjersey

    245 150 2.76 202 0.56 -

    M2 90 % PES, 10 % EL 250 155 2.88 211 0.63 3.2M3 87 % PES, 13 % EL 340 200 2.48 219 0.59 3.4

    M4 95 % PA, 5 % EL 245 175 2.80 214 0.57 1.8

    M5 90 % PA, 10 % EL 205 155 3.10 205 0.70 5.7

    M6 95 % Viskose, 5 % EL 215 155 2.83 206 0.79 8.9

    M7 92 % Viscose, 8 % EL 230 160 2.81 208 0.62 9.7

    M8 88 % Viscose, 12 % EL 310 175 2.62 210 0.59 11.9

    M9 95 % Cotton, 5 % EL 265 160 2.75 222 0.77 3.9

    M10 95 % Bamboo, 5 % EL 215 170 2.53 215 0.56 3.6

    Table 2.Chemical character (structure) and recipe proposals of washing agent and softeners

    Washing agent//softener title

    Character Chemical character AppearanceIonic

    CharacterRecipe Proposals

    BEICLEAN

    RG-N

    Low-foaming washing

    and emulsifying agent

    Modified fatty

    alcohol ethoxylates

    Colourless

    liquidNonionic ml/kg (dry laundry):

    10 ml BEICLEAN RG-N and5 ml BEIMPLEX NWS (both

    mixing approx 30C of water),value pH ~ 7

    BEIMPLEX

    NWS

    Detergency booster for

    Professional textile care

    Polycarboxylates,

    phosphates

    Clear, pale

    yellowliquid

    Anionic

    TUBINGAL 5051

    Hydrophylic softener

    concentrate, soluble incold water

    Fatty acid

    condensationproduct

    Light

    yellowliquid

    Cationic

    ml/l:120 ml softener/

    /880 ml of soft water (approx.40C), value pH = 4.5

    TUBINGAL SMF

    Softener and additive

    for the final finish oftextiles, preferably used

    for padding mangleapplications

    Functionalpolysiloxanes,micro-emulsified

    Transparent,colourlessliquid

    Nonionic

    g/l:

    1 g of softener/0.,5 g of aceticacid (100 %) or 3 g of acetic

    acid (9 %) (approx 40C ofwater), value pH = 5.5

    During the experiment, using standard photos,

    specimens were evaluated after every 1000 rotation cycle

    giving the following grades: grade 5 surface did not

    change; 4 insignificant fuzzing on the surface and (or)

    partially formed pills; 3 medium fuzzing on the surface

    and (or) medium pilling. Pills of different size and density

    partially cover the surface of specimen; 2 significant

    fuzzing on the surface and (or) significant pilling. Pills of

    different size and density cover a large part of the surface

    of specimen; 1 particularly significant fuzzing on the

    surface and (or) significant pilling. Pills of different size

    and density cover all the surface of specimen.

    Fig. 1.Scheme of the knitted fabrics washing and softening procedure

    Washed in automaticwashing machine

    Washing agent:

    BEICLEAN RG-Nand addition

    BEIPLEX NWS

    Duration: 31 min.Temperature: 40C

    Cycle.: 5

    Rinsed in a bath

    Softeners:

    TUBINGAL 5051(fatty acid

    condensation product)

    TUBINGAL SMF(functional

    polysiloxanes,micro-emulsified)

    Duration: 20 min.Temperature: 40C

    Centrifuging

    Duration: 10 min.

    Spin speed/rpm.: 600Cycle.: 5

    MarkingDrying in horizontal

    pozition

    Duration:t> 10 h

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    The Martindale abrasion device forces the directing

    plate of specimens holder to draw the figure of Lissajous.

    The movement of Lissajous is changing from the circle till

    the gradually narrowing ellipse, and finally becomes line,

    from which again the ellipse is formatting obliquely in the

    opposite direction up to the picture repeates. The pilling

    revolution is considered each rotation, and 16 rotations is

    considered as Lissajous figure.

    When defining grade 1 of pilling of each fabric

    corresponding the number of revolution (P), the

    experiment was repeated with two times less the number of

    revolutions (TP). This allowed to verification of the results

    within the range of insignificant pilling and to prepare

    specimens for further investigation.

    RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

    To define the propensity of fabrics to fuzz and pill, the

    results of investigation of control (P and TP) and washed

    (Figure 1) knitted fabrics (Table 1) as well as softened in

    different softeners (Table 2) were compared.

    Knitted fabrics from PES fibres M1 and M2 have thegreatest resistance to fuzzing and pilling: their propensity

    to fuzz and pill to grade 1 was not determined even after

    14000 revolutions (Figure 2). Knitted fabric M3 (87 %

    PES and 13 % EL) is of a very high quality and resistant,

    after only 14000 revolutions it was evaluated by grade 1,

    while the maximum recommended number of revolutions

    in the standard is 7000. Knitted fabrics M1M3 resistance

    to propensity of fuzzing and pilling is determined by the

    structure of yarn it is composed influenced by fiber

    content [3]: M1 composed from PES fibers (16.7 tex)

    and elastane (2.2 tex), M2 composed from PES fibers

    (16.7 tex, 96 filaments) and elastane (4.4 tex), M3

    composed from PES fibers (11 tex, 164 filaments) and

    elastane (4.4 tex). The exclusiveness of all three fabrics

    was also determined by the pattern - plain and plated jersey

    pattern. The elastane is inserted into the each line of the

    knitted fabric, for other investigated fabrics, into each

    second line. Thus, during the pilling investigation of the

    fabrics M1 M3, they scrubbed only the polyester layer,

    thats on the top, while the lower level, knitted with the

    elastane fiber, remained not touched. Therefore elastanefiber, depending on its quantity in the fabric more or less

    pulls, makes a more thick the polyester top layer [5].

    Knitted fabrics M4 and M5 are from polyamide fibres,

    however their resistance to pilling is different, pilling of

    knitted fabric M4 (5 % EL) is evaluated by grade 4 after

    the achievement of 14000 revolutions, while fabric M5

    (10 % EL) grade 1 just after 5000 revolutions. Fabric M4

    differs from fabric M5 by special method of facing which

    changes the resistance of the fabric surface to mechanical

    influence. It is suggested, that resistance to the pilling of

    the fabrics M4 and M5 differs significantly because of the

    fiber content and structure differences: M4 is made from

    polyamide 6,6 (7.8 tex from tow fibers) and elastane

    (2.2 tex.), and M5 from polyamide (16.9 tex) and

    elastane (4.4 tex). The fabric M5 is more thicker with a

    lower density than fabric M4. When sampling during

    scrabbling the surface contacts more close to the device top

    part. The loops of the fabric M5, characterised by lessdensity and bigger loop length, are easier going out with

    faster fuzzing as well breaking and is less influenced and

    less resistance to pilling [2, 3]. The fabric M4 is more

    resistant to pilling than M5, because of its pattern, plain

    and plated jersey pattern, when elastane is inserted into the

    each line of knitted fabric, the elastane fiber is not

    scrabbled directly.

    The pattern of the fabric M4 is plain and plated jersey

    pattern, when elastane is inserted into the each second line

    of the knitted fabric. Knitted fabric M5 from polyamidefibres is similar to knitted fabrics (M6 and M8) from

    viscose fibres by its resistance to pilling because

    permissible pilling grade 3 was achieved from 2000 to3000 of revolutions, and grade 1 after 5000 revolutions.

    Fabric M3 from cotton fibres is of similar resistance to

    pilling (grade 3 was achieved after 2000 revolutions),

    however it was evaluated by pilling grade 1 after 6000

    revolutions.

    Tested knitted fabrics

    0

    1000

    2000

    3000

    4000

    5000

    6000

    7000

    8000

    9000

    10000

    11000

    12000

    13000

    14000

    15000

    M 1 M 2 M 3 M 4 M 5 M 6 M 7 M 8 M 9 M 10

    Numberofrevolu

    tions

    1

    1 1

    1

    1

    1

    1

    4 4 4

    Fig. 2. Investigation (P) results change of knitted fabric propensity to surface fuzzing and to pilling (on five grades of pilling from 5

    to 1): 5; 5/4; 4; 4/3; 3; 3/2; 2; 2/1; 1

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    02468

    1012

    2000 4000 6000 8000 10000 12000 14000Number of revolutions

    ,%

    r = 0.681M8

    M6M7M5

    M9M10 M2M3

    M4M1 0

    2 46 8

    1012

    3 6 9 12 15Amount of elastane, %

    r = 0.948

    r= 0.984,

    %

    PES, EL

    VI EL

    a b

    Fig. 3. Relationship between the change of thickness of knitted fabrics and number of rotations (a) corresponding maximum pillinggrade and quantity of elastane in fabric (b)

    The propensity to fuzz and pill of fabrics M7 (from

    viscose fibres) and M10 (from reclaimed bamboo fibres) is

    undesirably large: after just 1000 revolutions, specimenswere evaluated by grade 3, and after 3000 revolutions by

    grade 1.

    The obtained results showed that the resistance of

    fabrics which differ by its main fibrous composition (EL

    5 %) to propensity of pilling is different. Specimens of

    fabrics from PES and PA fibres were evaluated by grade 4

    only after 14000 revolutions, while fabrics from viscose

    (M6) and cotton (M9) fibres achieved pilling grade 4 after

    just 1000 revolutions. The worst result was in fabrics of

    reclaimed bamboo fibres (M10) which achieved pilling

    grade 3 after just 1000 revolutions.

    The influence of fabric softness to their resistance to

    pilling, it was defined that when a change of fabricthickness increases (), their resistance to pillingdecreases (Fig. 3, a) [3, 4, 7]. The exception is the results

    of investigation of knitted fabrics M9 and M10 which are

    determined by fibrous composition of the fabric. The

    influence of change of thickness to pilling of fabrics

    strongly correlates (r= 0.984) when comparing the results

    of knitted fabrics from PES and PA fibres. Strong linear

    dependence (r= 0.903) between change of thickness andresistance to pilling was obtained comparing the results of

    fabrics from PES and viscose fibres.

    When the quantity of elastane increases in the

    composition of knitted fabrics, the change of thickness

    increases (Fig. 3, b) [5], and the resistance to pillingdecreases (Fig. 2). For example, when the quantity of

    elastane of knitted fabrics M1, M2, M3 changes

    respectively 5 %, 10 % and 13 %, it changes the thickness

    0 %, 3.2 % and 3.4 %. First insignificant changes of the

    surface of fabric M1 were observed after 6000 rotations

    (grade 4), M2 fabric just after 1000 rotations was evaluated

    between grade 5 and 4, and evaluated by grade 4 after

    3000 rotations. Figure 2 shows how the resistance to

    pilling of knitted fabric M3 differs comparing it with M1

    and M2. The influence of washing (after 5 cycles) and

    softening using two different softeners (fatty acid

    condensate and silicone micro emulsion softener) to

    propensity of knitted fabrics fuzzing and pilling, it wasdefined that the procedure of washing and softening

    increases the propensity of knitted fabrics to pilling

    (Fig. 4) [10, 11]: the propensity of pilling of M3,

    M5 M10 knitted fabrics increases from 33 % to 67 %.

    Washing and processing using chemical softeners do not

    have substantial influence to the propensity of pilling of

    knitted fabrics M1, M2 and M4.

    Subjective pilling evaluation method applied in the

    investigation did not allow to define substantial differences

    between the results of a specimens influenced by different

    Tested knitted fabrics

    0

    2000

    4000

    6000

    8000

    10000

    12000

    14000

    M 1 M 2 M 3 M 4 M 5 M 6 M 7 M 8 M 9 M 10

    Numberofrevolution

    4 3 4 4

    4/3 3 1 3/2

    1

    4 4 4/3

    1

    11

    1

    1

    1

    11 1

    1

    1

    1

    1

    1111

    1

    Fig. 4.The results of investigation of maximum propensity of pilling and fuzzing of knitted fabrics (P): control specimens;

    washed and softened using fatty acid condensate; washed and softened using silicone micro emulsion softener

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    Tested knitted fabrics01000

    200030004000500060007000

    M3 M5 M6 M7 M8 M9 M10

    Numberofrevolutions 4 /3 4 /3

    43

    3 3

    4/3

    3 3 3 3 33

    33

    3

    3

    3 3/2

    3 3

    Fig. 5. The results of investigation of permissible propensity of knitted fabrics to fuzz and pill (TP), when the number of cycles isdecreased halfway: control specimens; washed and softened using fatty acid condensate; washed and softened usingsilicone micro emulsion softener

    softeners. The exception is the results of knitted fabrics

    M3, M8 and M9 which showed that specimens softened by

    fatty acid condensate are more resistant to pilling than a

    specimen softened by silicone micro emulsion softener.

    After the performance of additional experiment, whenthe number of rotations is twice less than all knitted

    fabrics, it was defined that the influence of washing and

    softening to pilling of knitted fabrics remains tendentious

    (Figure 5). When applying the number of rotations which

    was twice less than all investigated fabrics, the lower

    evaluation of resistance to pilling is up to grade 3 and it

    confirms that fabrics can be exploitable further.

    CONCLUSIONS

    Knitted fabrics from PES fibres have the greatest

    resistance to pilling as their resistance is influenced by

    fibre structure and facing. Investigated knitted fabrics fromviscose and reclaimed bamboo fibres have the lowest

    resistance to pilling. Knitted fabrics from reclaimed

    bamboo fibre distinguished by quickest pilling process:

    just after 1000 revolutions it was evaluated by pilling

    grade 3. When the change of knitted fabric thicknessincreases up to 9.7 % the resistance to pilling decreases up

    to 64 %. It defined a stronger linear dependence between

    the quantity of elastane in investigated knitted fabrics and

    thickness change confirms that the quantity of above-

    mentioned fibre has influence to pilling.

    The procedure of washing and softening worsened the

    resistance to pilling of investigated knitted fabrics from

    33 % to 67 %. Fabrics M3, M8 and M9 softened usingfatty acid concentrate are from 25 % to 50 % resistant to

    pilling than fabrics softened using silicone micro emulsion

    softener. In case of other investigated fabrics, substantial

    differences were not defined.

    REFERENCES

    1. Gintis, G., Mead, E. J. The Mechanism of Pilling TextileResearch Journal 29 1959: pp. 578585.

    2. Gykyt, I., Strazdien, E., Titas, R., Urbelis, V. Pilling ofKnitted Materials MaterialsScience (Mediagotyra) ISSN1392-1320 8 (3) 2002: pp. 316319.

    3. Mikuionien, D.The Influence of Structure Parameters ofWeft Knitted Fabrics on Propensity to Pilling MaterialsScience (Mediagotyra) ISSN 1392-1320 15 (4) 2009:pp. 335338.

    4. Candan, C., nal, L. Dimensional, Pilling and AbrasionProperties of Weft Knits Made from Open-End and RingSpun Yarns Textile Research Journal 72 (2) 2002:pp. 164169.

    5. Abramaviit, J., Mikuionien, D., iukas, R.Structureproperties of Knits from Natural Yarns and their

    Combination with Elastane and Polyamide ThreadsMaterialsScience (Mediagotyra) ISSN 1392-1320 17 (1)2011: pp. 4346.

    6. Emirhanova, N., Kavusturan, Y. Effects of Knit Structureon the Dimensional and Physical Properties of WinterOuterwear Knitted Fabrics Fibres & Textiles in EasternEurope 16 (2) 2008: pp. 6974.

    7. Uar, N., Erturul, S. Prediction of Fuzz Fibers on Fabricby Using Neural Network and Regression Analysis Fibres& Textiles in Eastern Europe 2 (61) 2007: pp. 5861.

    8. Ceken, F. Pilling of Flat Knitted Fabrics KnittingTechnology 2 2000: pp. 1617.

    9. Akaydin, M., Can, Y. Pilling Performance and AbrasionCharacteristics of Selected Basic Weft Knitted FabricsFibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe 2 (79) 2010:pp. 5154.

    10. Nergis, B. U., Beceren, Y. Visual Evaluation of the Surfaceof Tencel/Cotton Blend Fabrics in Production and CleaningProcesses Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe 3 (68)2008: pp. 3943.

    11. elik, N., Deirmenci, Z., Kaynak, H. K. Effect of NanoSoftener on Abrasion and Pilling Resistance and ColorFastness of Knitted Fabrics Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon 1 2010:pp. 4147.

    12. ISO 6330:2000 Textiles Domestic Washing and DryingProcedures for Textile Testing.

    13. ISO 12945-2:2000 Textiles Determination of FabriccPropensity to Surface Fuzzing and to Pilling Part 2:

    Modified Martindale method.

    14. ISO 139:2005 Textiles Standart Atmospheres forConditioning and Testing.

    Presented at the National Conference "Materials Engineering2010"(Kaunas, Lithuania, November 19, 2010)