1 the best tours full-day · 1 the best full-day tours 05_384398-ch01.qxp 12/15/08 11:14 pm page 5...
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1 The Best Full-DayTours
05_384398-ch01.qxp 12/15/08 11:14 PM Page 5
COPYRIG
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The Best in One DayTh
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Full-
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To
urs
Previous page: The Campanile rises 98m (322 ft.) from Piazza San Marco.
05_384398-ch01.qxp 12/15/08 11:14 PM Page 6
more atmospheric surroundings.Piazza San Marco. y 041-5205641.See p 117.
4 Caffè Florian. You’ll pay dearlyfor your cappuccino on the terracehere, but you’ll never sip coffee in
Piazza San Marco’s pigeons are almostas famous as its architecture.
1 ★★ La Fenice. The aptlynamed opera house (fenice means“phoenix”) has burned several times,most recently in 1996, and risenfrom the ashes looking just as it hasfor centuries. Several Verdi operas,including Rigoletto and La Traviata,premiered in the sumptuous, newlyrestored house, and Maria Callas isamong the stars who have gracedthe stage. @ 15 min. See p 128.
2 ★ San Moisè. In a city of beau-tiful churches, this baroque extrava-gance stands out as one of theugliest. @ 15 min. Campo SanMoisè. y 041-5285840. Daily9:30am–12:30pm. Vaporetto: SanMarco/Vallaresso.
3 ★★ Bacino Orseolo. One ofthe city’s 11 gondola stands is a goodplace to get a close look at theseuniquely Venetian craft—or to boardone. @ 15 min. Fondamenta Orseolo.Vaporetto: San Marco/Vallaresso.
5 ★★★ Piazza San Marco.This square, the heart of the city formore than 1,000 years, combinesthe very old (the Basilica) with therelatively new (the 16th- and 17th-c.Procuratie Vecchie and ProcuratieNuove buildings on the north andsouth sides of the square), yet stillmanages to be harmonious.
7
The French novelist Marcel Proust said of his first trip toVenice, “My dream became my address.” You may feel the same
way as you begin to explore the city. Start in the San Marco section,not far from the Piazza San Marco, and take in the uniquely Venetianpalaces and churches. Top off your tour with a cruise along one ofthe world’s most storied waterways, the Grand Canal. START:
Vaporetto to Santa Maria del Giglio.
The Best in
On
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Venice’s glorious opera house, La Fenice (“The Phoenix”) has been destroyed by firethree times.
05_384398-ch01.qxp 12/15/08 11:14 PM Page 7
8Th
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75 yards0
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Piazza San Marco
The Piazza San Marco contains manyof Venice’s major attractions: In theK Museo Correr (see p 31, 1),maps, coins, costumes, and, best ofall, paintings by Vittore Carpaccio(room 38) and Jacopo Bellini (room36) recall the days of the republic.Across the square, bronze Moorsstrike the bells of the L Torre dell’Orologio to mark the time.During the feasts of the Ascensionand Epiphany, statues of the Magiappear out of the clock on the hour,accompanied by a procession ofangels. Below, in the M Piazzettadei Leoncini, marble lions standguard over what was once a market-place. Next to this plaza is the N Basilica di San Marco (see p 23, 5), which inspired 19th-centuryman of letters John Ruskin to exhaleinto his journals, “The crests of thearches break into a marble foam, andtoss themselves into the blue sky in
flashes and wreaths of sculptedspray”; less poetical observers will besimilarly moved by its ornate Byzan-tine architecture. O PalazzoDucale (see p 37, 4), the palacewhere the doges lived and ruled,adjacent to the Basilica, is majesticbut has a touch of whimsy as well.The city’s tallest structure, the P Campanile (see p 44, 2) or belltower of the Basilica, in the center ofthe piazza, affords stunning views.Two columns, one topped by awinged lion and the other by SaintTheodore, frame the Q PiazzettaSan Marco, the seaside extensionof Piazza San Marco. Finally, don’tmiss one of Venice’s great Renais-sance monuments, the R ★ Bib-lioteca Marciana, which wascompleted in the 16th century tohouse a precious hoard of Greek andLatin manuscripts. @ 4–5 hr. SanMarco. Vaporetto: San Marco.
05_384398-ch01.qxp 12/15/08 11:14 PM Page 8
6 ★ Santo Stefano. Beyond thischurch’s 15th-century sculpted por-tal by Bartolomeo Bon is a woodenceiling whose shape resembles theinverted hull of a ship, as well astwo works by Tintoretto in the sac-risty. @ 30 min. Campo Santo Ste-fano. y 041-5225061. Sacristy 3�.Church daily 9am–7pm; sacristyMon–Sat 10am–5pm. Vaporetto: San Samuele.
7 ★★ Palazzo Grassi. One ofthe last of the great palaces to bebuilt in Venice dates from 1749 andwas stunningly converted in 2006 tohouse the contemporary art collec-tions of French magnate FrançoisPinault. @ 45 min. San Marco 3231,San Samuele. y 041-5231680. www.palazzograssi.it. 10�. Daily 10am–7pm. Vaporetto: San Samuele.
8 ★ Palazzo Mocenigo. One ofthe largest and grandest houses inVenice is actually four palaces that asuccession of prominent residentscombined over the centuries. LordByron lived here from 1818 to1819—with enough pets to popu-late a small zoo, an army of ser-vants, and his mistress. He oftenswam home across the lagoon fromoutings on the Lido. @ 10 min. CalleMocenigo. Not open to the public.Vaporetto: San Stae.
9 ★ Palazzo Fortuny. The lastresident of this 15th-century palazzowas textile designer and photogra-pher Mariano Fortuny. The mansionnow displays his distinctive work.See p 37, 2.
0 ★★ Scala Contarini delBòvolo. The beautiful spiral stair-case (bòvolo, or snail, in Venetiandialect) that this palazzo is namedfor climbs five stories from a lovelycourtyard. Until lengthy restorationwork is completed sometime in2009, the staircase can be admiredonly from below in the courtyard; areward for a climb to the top is a
panoramic view over the rooftops ofVenice. @ 15 min. Corte di Contarinidel Bòvolo. y 041-5322920.Vaporetto: Rialto.
! ★ San Salvador. The hand-some white interior of this chapelprovides refuge from the busy Mer-cerie, one of Venice’s main shop-ping streets, as well as the chanceto view some excellent paintings:two Titians (a Transfiguration and anAnnunciation) and Carpaccio’s Disci-ples at Emmaus. @ 30 min. CampoSan Salvador. y 041-2702464.Mon–Sat 9am–noon, 3–7:15pm; Sun3–7:15pm. Vaporetto: Rialto.
@ ★★★ Grand Canal. A cruiseup one of the world’s most beautifulwaterways is the ideal way to end along day of touring. Get off at theFerrovia stop for the return trip. Seep 18. For details on the vaporetto,see p 167.
9The B
est in O
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ay
The Scala Contarini del Bòvolo is under-going restoration but remains a charmingarchitectural flourish.
05_384398-ch01.qxp 12/15/08 11:14 PM Page 9
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1
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05_384398-ch01.qxp 12/15/08 11:14 PM Page 10
Gondolas moored in front of the octago-nal church of Santa Maria della Salute,known simply as the Salute.
1 ★★ Santa Maria dellaSalute. The church of “Saint Maryof Health” was built in 1630, anoffering of thanks to the Virgin Maryfor bringing an end to a plague out-break that killed a third of the city’spopulation. The massive white-mar-ble cathedral by architect Baldas-sare Longhena commands theentrance to the Grand Canal, and its high domes, suggestive of theMadonna’s crown, mimic those ofthe Basilica di San Marco across thewater. A suitably impressive collec-tion of paintings hangs in the round,marble interior, including Tin-toretto’s Wedding at Cana and Titian’s Saint Mark Enthroned withSaints. The Virgin is honored on the high altar with a Byzantine icon and a wonderfully dramaticmarble sculptural group by GiustoLe Corte—an old hag representingthe plague flees from a torch-bear-ing angel as the Virgin and a noble-woman, in the role of Venice, lookon. @ 30 min. Campo della Salute.
y 041-5225558. Sacristy 2�. Apr–Sept daily 9am–noon, 3–6:30pm;Oct–Mar daily 9am–noon, 3–5:30pm.Vaporetto: Salute.
2 ★★ La Dogana da Mar.The 17th-century Customs house at the tip of the Dorsoduro resem-bles the hull of a ship and was oncea mandatory stop for all vesselsentering Venice. On the roof, astatue of Fortune stands over a goldglobe, and looking out to sea fromthe landing stage, it’s easy to imag-ine the time when Venetians feltthey were indeed the lucky rulers ofthe waves. The modern world will
establish a beachhead here at thetip of the city in mid-2009 with the opening of the Centro d’Arte Contemporanea de Punta dellaDogana, which will house worksthat include those from the collec-tions of the Palazzo Grassi (see p 9, 7). @ 30 min. FondamentaDogana alla Salute. Vaporetto:Salute.
3 ★★★ Peggy GuggenheimCollection. The American heiress(1898–1979) spent much of her lifecollecting contemporary art, livingup to her pledge to “buy a picture a day.” In 1949, she found a home for herself and her paintings, thePalazzo Venier dei Leoni, that is assurreal as some of the works she pre-ferred. Only the ground floor of the18th-century palace was completed,providing distinctive surroundings
11
Now it’s time to explore the Dorsoduro, the quarters acrossthe Grand Canal from San Marco. This is not a quiet neighbor-
hood amble: Some of Venice’s greatest masterpieces are here, andyou’ll discover one remarkable church and treasure-filled museumafter another. START: Vaporetto to Salute.
The Best in
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PalazzoMocenígo
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Pal.Clary
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Pal.Molìn
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Pal. Contarinidegli Scrigni
Ca'Rezzonico
Doganada Mar
Galleriedell'Accademia
Accademia
Bacino diSan Marco
Ex Convento
Ca'Foscari
Calle Foscari
Calle Nuova
Rio della Frescada
S. Rocco
S. Maria G.dei Frari
Ex Conventodei Frari
S. GiovanniEvangelista
S. Pantalòn
Cármini
Pal.Foscarini
Pal.Zenobia
Rio Nuovo
Pal.Ariani
Ex Chiesa diS. Margherita
Calle Gozz
iRio di S. Barnaba
S. Stefano Pontedell'Accademia
Rio Ognissanti
Rio di
S. Trovaso
Piscina
S. S
amuele
Canàl Grande Canale della Giudecca
Ca' Rezzonico
Pal.Loredàn
Calle lunga S. Bárnaba
05_384398-ch01.qxp 12/15/08 11:14 PM Page 11
6 Il Chioschetto. At this outdoorcafe, a panino and a glass of wine,well deserved after a morning ofviewing art, come with a view ofthe Giudecca Canal. Zattere PonteLuongo. y 338-1174077.
Giovanni Bellini’s Madonna of the RedCherubs, in the Gallerie dell’Accademia.
for a collection that includes GiorgioDe Chirico’s The Red Tower, ReneMagritte’s Empire of Light, and worksby Jackson Pollock (whom Guggen-heim discovered), Max Ernst (whomshe married), and many others. Theshady garden is filled with sculp-tures, as well as the graves ofGuggenheim and her dogs. Thewaterside terrace provides sweepingviews up and down the Grand Canal.
@ 1 hr. Palazzo Venier dei Leoni.
y 041-2405411. www.guggenheim-venice.it. 10�. Wed–Mon 10am–6pm.Vaporetto: Accademia.
4 ★★ Palazzo Cini. IndustrialistVittorio Cini (1885–1977) spentmuch of his fortune collecting reli-gious art from Tuscany, and hissmall, intimate palace, open only forspecial events and exhibitions, isfilled with works by Sandro Botti-celli, Piero della Francesca, and others. See p 37, 1.
5 ★★★ Gallerie dell’Accade-mia. A walk through the gallerieshere can take the good part of a dayand is a lesson in Venetian art fromCarpaccio to Tiepolo. If time is tightor the temptation to be outdoorsexploring the city too great, at leastsee the works by Titian, Tintoretto,and Veronese, and Carpaccio’s col-orful, action-filled Story of SaintUrsula cycle. See p 34.
12Th
e B
est
Full-
Day
To
urs
The Peggy Guggenheim Collection contains a canal-side sculpture garden.
05_384398-ch01.qxp 12/15/08 11:14 PM Page 12
7 ★★ Scuola Grande deiCarmini. The Carmelite orderfounded this scuola in the 17th cen-tury in association with the guild ofdyers and hired the architect Baldas-sare Longhena to build their prem-ises. The master’s facades remainintact—as does much of the interior,little touched over the centuries. Apainting by Tiepolo, The Virgin inGlory Appearing to the BlessedSimon Stock, flows over the ceilingof the salon. @ 30 min. See p 32, 8.
8 ★★★ Scuola Grande di SanRocco. San Rocco, the patron saint
of the sick and a Venetian favorite,was especially popular for hisalleged prowess at curing theplague. A scuola in his honor wasbegun in the early 16th century tohouse the saint’s relics; it was lav-ishly decorated by Tintoretto. @ 30min. See p 32, 9.
9 ★★★ Santa Maria Gloriosadei Frari. One of the largestchurches in Venice is also one of thecity’s great treasure troves of art,with masterworks by Titian and Gio-vanni Bellini. See p 33, 0.
13The B
est in Tw
o D
ays
The church of Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari contains dozens of works of art by Italianmasters, including Donatello and Titian.
Founded in the Middle Ages, the Venetian scuole (schools) wereguilds that brought together merchants and craftspeople from cer-tain trades (for example, the dyers of Scuola dei Carmini), as well asthose who shared similar religious devotions (Scuola Grande di SanRocco). The guilds were social clubs, credit unions, and sources ofspiritual guidance. Many commissioned elaborate headquarters andhired the best artists of the day to decorate them. The scuole thatremain in Venice today house some of the city’s finest art treasures.
Back to Scuola
05_384398-ch01.qxp 12/15/08 11:14 PM Page 13
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05_384398-ch01.qxp 12/15/08 11:14 PM Page 14
2 Alla Madonna. For an authen-tic taste of the Rialto markets, takea seat in this busy room and enjoy aseafood lunch. Calle della Madonna.
y 041-5223824. See p 102.
1 ★★ Rialto. The markets andalleys of the Rialto are a good placeto begin your walk. The name comesfrom rivoaltus, or “high bank,” a geo-graphic asset when settlers in theearly 9th century were searching fordry ground to establish the city’sfirst bazaar. (The Rialto has been acommercial center ever since.) Shipsfrom around the globe once dockedat the Fondaco dei Tedeschi—theRenaissance-style structure that nowhouses the main post office—andother neighborhood warehouses,and it was here that the Grand Canalwas first spanned. See p 42, 0.
traghetto—basically, a large, plaingondola—provides a poor man’sgondola ride (one-way passage is just.50�), but comes with a challenge:By tradition, passengers remainstanding during the ride. @ 10 min.Near the Rialto; traghetti run fromFondamente del Vin to Riva del Car-bòn (Mon–Sat 8am–2pm) and thePescaria to Santa Sofia (Mon–Sat7:30am–8:30pm; Sun 8am–7pm). Seep 48, 2, for more details on thePonte di Rialto. Vaporetto: Rialto.
4 ★★ Campo Santi Giovannie Paolo. Bartolomeo Colleoni, a15th-century mercenary, ridesacross one of Venice’s most beauti-ful squares astride an equestrianmonument by Verrocchio. Thenamesake basilica here (known asSan Zanipòlo in Venetian dialect) isthe final resting place of 25 doges,entombed in marble splendor. @ 45min. Castello. Vaporetto: Fonda-menta Nuove.
5 ★★★ Santa Maria dei Mira-coli. This small, beautiful church,inconspicuously tucked away on asmall campo next to a canal, seems
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Everyday life in Venice begins at its busy marketplace, theRialto, so you should, too. Continue your day by exploring the
historic sestieri (districts) of Cannaregio and San Polo, neighbor-hoods where Venetians just go about their daily business. Along thisroute you’ll also find a few more of the notable churches, palaces,galleries, and monuments with which the city is so liberally laced.START: Vaporetto to Rialto.
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Passengers typically stand during traghetto (ferry) rides traversing the Grand Canal.
3 ★ Traghetto. Enjoy a walk overthe Ponte dei Rialto, Venice’s oldestbridge over the Canal, then retraceyour steps and make the crossing in one of the traghetti that runbetween the banks of the canal. A
05_384398-ch01.qxp 12/15/08 11:14 PM Page 15
almost like an apparition. See p 66, 0.
6 ★ Santi Apostoli. Venetian legend has it that the 12 apostlesappeared to Saint Magnus and toldhim to build a church where he saw12 cranes. The church’s bell tower, a 17th-century addition, is toppedwith an onion dome and is a much-beloved landmark. GiambattistaTiepolo’s rendering of Saint Lucy nearthe altar is eye-catching indeed—themartyr’s eyes lie on the floor next toher, but she seems to be smiling allthe same. @ 30 min. Campo SantiApostoli. y 041-5238297. Mon–Sat8:30–noon, 5–7pm; Sun 4–7pm.Vaporetto: Ca’ d’Oro.
7 ★ Strada Nuova. One of thefew straight paths in Venice (ViaGaribaldi, p 59, $, is another), thisstreet was laid out in the 1860s tofacilitate foot traffic to and from thethen-new railway station.
8 ★★★ Ca’ d’Oro/GalleriaFranchetti. This 15th-centurypalazzo just off the Strada Nuovastill bears the trappings of a cushyRenaissance lifestyle and is filled
with works by Venetian masters. See p 16, 8.
9 ★★ Campo di Ghetto Nuovo.The Ghetto was once the only part ofVenice where Jews were allowed tolive. This large square and surround-ing neighborhood occupy an islandthat was closed off at dusk and stillfeels remote. The houses on thesquare are higher than most inVenice, as stories were added toaccommodate a population thatexpanded as the Jewish communityprospered in trade and banking.
@ 15 min. Ghetto Nuovo, Cannaregio.Vaporetto: Ponte de Guglie.
0 ★★ Palazzo Labia. One of thegrandest palaces in Venice is setback from the Grand Canal—a signthat the Labias, a clan of Spanishtraders, were never accepted byVenetian nobility. GiambattistaTiepolo painted a magnificent frescoof Anthony and Cleopatra for theBanqueting Hall in honor of the mar-riage of Maria Labia. @ 30 min. Fon-damenta Labia. y 041-5242812.Closed for restoration; normallyopen Wed–Fri 3–4pm, by appoint-ment only (call or ask your hotel tomake arrangements). Vaporetto: SanMarcuola/Ponte de Guglie. •
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The church of San Zanipòlo is the principalDominican basilica in Venice.
Tiepolo’s 18th-century fresco, The Meet-ing of Antony and Cleopatra, in thePalazzo Labia.
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