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Previous page: The Crown Fountain in Millennium Park.

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Quench your thirst at the 3 clas-sic soda fountain in Macy’s, andadd a twist of lemon, cherry, orvanilla flavor to your soft drink. 111N. State St. y 312/781-1000. $.

A ride on the city’s famous “El” train is aquintessential Chicago experience.

Joan Miro’s Chicago is just one of manyworld-class sculptures found in the Loop.

9The B

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ay

With 1 day to spend in Chicago, focus on the heart of thecity. The Loop is a collection of commercial, governmental,

and cultural buildings contained within a corral of elevated traintracks. Here you’ll find classic Chicago experiences, plus the chanceto glimpse the city’s future in its newest urban showcase, MillenniumPark. START: Washington/Wells El Station.

1 ★★★= Ride the BrownLine “El” (Elevated Train)around the Loop. Board theBrown Line at Washington/Wells,and ride it around the Loop throughthe canyons of office buildings(you’ll be close enough to peer intosome of them). Stop off at Ran-dolph/Wabash (or, if you don’t minda longer walk, ride to Clark/Lake).

@ 30 min. Avoid rush-hour boardingbefore 9am and from 3:30–6:30pm.

y 888/YOURCTA. www.transitchicago.com. Tickets $1.75 per ride,85¢ for kids 7–11 and seniors, freefor kids under 7. El: Brown Line toWashington/Wells.

2Macy’s. In 2006, the formerMarshall Field’s became Macy’s,much to locals’ chagrin. This depart-ment store’s clock is one of the city’smost-recognized icons. Browse thestore’s famous windows, or stop infor Frango Mints, a favorite Chicagosouvenir. Head inside to check out

the largest Tiffany glass mosaicdome in the United States. @ 5 min.–2 hr. (if you want to shop). 111 N.State St. at Randolph St. y 312/781-1000. Hours vary seasonally; callahead. El: Red Line to Washington.

4 Miro’s CChhiiccaaggoo.. Originallycalled The Sun, the Moon and OneStar, Joan Miro’s Chicago wasunveiled in 1981. This 40-foot-tallsculptural representation of awoman with outstretched arms sits in the Brunswick Plaza on Washington Street, and overlooksthe Picasso sculpture at the DaleyCenter. @ 5 min. On the plaza of 69W. Washington St. El: Red Line toWashington.

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W. Van Buren St.

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W. Polk St.

N. C

linto

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.

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anal

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anal

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05_422083-ch01.qxp 3/5/09 2:59 PM Page 9

5 RReelliiaannccee BBuuiillddiinngg.. Now theHotel Burnham, this building, with aterra cotta and glass exterior, wasone of the world’s first skyscrapers.Stop inside to admire the terrazzo tilefloors, white marble wainscoting, andmahogany door and window frames.Room numbers painted on thetranslucent doors recall the struc-ture’s days as an office building.Today, the Hotel Burnham features eclectic decor and an excellentground-floor restaurant with a viewonto State Street (p 100). @ 15 min. 1 W. Washington St. y 312/782-1111.El: Red Line to Washington.

6= CChhiiccaaggoo PPuubblliicc LLiibbrraarryy//HHaarroolldd WWaasshhiinnggttoonn LLiibbrraarryyCCeenntteerr.. This hulking Italian Renais-sance building is the world’s largestpublic library. Named for the city’sfirst and only African-Americanmayor, who died of a heart attack in1987 while still in office, the buildingfills an entire city block. On the sec-ond floor, the Thomas Hughes Chil-dren’s Library makes an excellentresting spot for families travelingwith kids. @ 30 min. 400 S. State St.

y 312/747-4300. www.chipublib.org.Free admission. Mon–Thurs

9am–7pm; Fri–Sat 9am–5pm; Sun1–5pm. Closed holidays. El: Brown orPurple line to Library.

7 ★★★ AArrtt IInnssttiittuuttee ooffCChhiiccaaggoo.. Stop in to view theImpressionist collection on the sec-ond floor, a highlight of this,Chicago’s grande dame of muse-ums. With 33 paintings by ClaudeMonet, dancers by Degas, and Seu-rat’s legendary masterpiece, A Sun-day Afternoon on La Grande Jatte,this museum is a must for any artlover. @ 1 hr. See p 38.

8 ★★★=MMiilllleennnniiuumm PPaarrkk..When Chicago’s newest showpiecedebuted in summer 2004, it wonraves for its winning combination ofbeautiful landscaping, elegant clas-sically inspired architecture, andpublic entertainment spaces. Today,it’s become a favorite tourist desti-nation, second only to Navy Pier. Atourist rite of passage is having aphoto taken in the reflection of “The Bean,” which has becomeChicagoans’ unofficial favorite sculp-ture. And, the spectacular FrankGehry–designed Jay Pritzker Pavilionis host to the nation’s only free, out-door, municipally-supported classi-cal music series, the Grant ParkMusic Festival.

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If the weather is fine, you can makea picnic out of the sandwiches and salads served at the _ PPaarrkkGGrriillll && CCaaffee (11 N. Michigan Ave.;y 312/521-7275; $). + The CCrrooww nnFFoouunnttaaiinn,, and its two towers ofglass blocks with a shallow reflect-ing pool between them, is perfectfor kids to splash around in warmweather (late at night, you’ll findrevelers doing the same). Faces ofChicagoans are projected throughthe glass—and their mouths spewwater when you least expect it. { The CClloouudd GGaattee is an ellipticalsculpture made of highly polishedsteel that reflects the nearby sky-line, landscape, and lights. For themost mind-bending funhouse view,stand underneath the sculpture. The park’s centerpiece is the

} JJaayy PPrriittzzkkeerr PPaavviilliioonn,, an out-door music venue designed byFrank Gehry; massive stainless steel ribbons top the stage. Another Gehry-designed standout,| BBPP PPeeddeessttrriiaann BBrriiddggee,, curvesand winds its way over ColumbusDrive, providing changing views ofthe cityscape as you walk. Finally,stroll : TThhee LLuurriiee GGaarrddeenn,, where250 varieties of native perennialplants re-create a Midwesternprairie. @ 2 hr. Michigan Ave. fromRandolph St. on the north end toMonroe St. on the south, and westto Columbus Dr. y 312/752-1168.www.millenniumpark.org. Freeadmission. Daily 6am–11pm. El: BlueLine to Washington, Red Line to Lakeand Brown, Green, Orange, or Purpleline to Randolph.

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05_422083-ch01.qxp 2/20/09 9:34 PM Page 13

A cruise along the Chicago River is one ofthe best ways to see the city’s fabulousarchitecture.

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uurrss Onn yyoouurr sseeccoonndd ddaayy iinn CChhiiccaaggoo,, ttaakkee ttoo tthhee wwaatteerr ffoorr aa bbooaatt

ccrruuiissee,, and gain insight into the people and events that shapedthe city’s famous skyline. Stroll the Magnificent Mile, with its glitteringarray of shops, and finish your day in scenic Lincoln Park, with itscharming centerpiece, Lincoln Park Zoo. SSTTAARRTT:: SSoouutthheeaasstt ccoorrnneerr ooff

tthhee MMiicchhiiggaann AAvveennuuee BBrriiddggee.. BBuuss:: 115511 ((MMiicchhiiggaann AAvvee..)) ttoo IIlllliinnooiiss SSttrreeeett..

1★★★ CChhiiccaaggoo AArrcchhiitteeccttuurreeFFoouunnddaattiioonn’’ss AArrcchhiitteeccttuurreeRRiivveerr CCrruuiissee.. You’ll see more than50 buildings from a unique perspec-tive as you glide along the north andsouth branches of the Chicago River.Narration is provided by docents,who do a good job of making thecruise enjoyable for all visitors, nomatter what their level of architec-tural knowledge. In addition to point-ing out famous buildings—MarinaCity, the Civic Opera house, the SearsTower, and Merchandise Mart, toname a few—they approach the sitesthematically, explaining, for example,how Chicagoans’ use of the river haschanged in the past 2 centuries. Ifyou have very young kids, you mayprefer the shorter (and less expen-sive) tours by Wendella SightseeingBoats. Kids’ tickets cost $12, and thetours last 1 hour. @ 11⁄2 hr. Southeastcorner of Michigan Ave. bridge. Tick-ets $28 per person weekdays, $30 onweekends and holidays. Daily June–Oct 11am–3pm (weekends only Mayand Nov). Purchase tickets in advancethrough Ticketmaster (y 312/902-

1500), or avoid the service charge andbuy your tickets at the ArchiCenter,224 S. Michigan Ave. (www.architecture.org), or at the boatlaunch. Wendella Sightseeing Boatsdepart from Michigan Ave. bridge (onthe northwest side, at the WrigleyBuilding). y 312/337-1446. www.wendellaboats.com. Tickets $23adults, $21 seniors, $12 childrenunder 12. Daily Apr–Oct. Bus: 151.

2★ MMiicchhiiggaann AAvveennuuee BBrriiddggee..Gaze up at the Gothic splendor of theTribune Tower and the white bril-liance of the William J. Wrigley Jr.Building from Chicago’s most famousbridge, one of many that span theChicago River. Designed to improvetransportation and enhance the river-front, the bridge was completed in1920, followed by the Wacker Drive

The Michigan Avenue Bridge offers someof the city’s best photo ops.

05_422083-ch01.qxp 2/20/09 9:34 PM Page 14

4 PPuucckk’’ss,, a cafe operated by Wolfgang Puck of Spago restaurantfame, has seating overlooking theMuseum of Contemporary Art’s 1-acre terraced sculpture garden.Mediterranean and Asian influencesenliven classic dishes, as exemplifiedby the three-bean salad with shrimp,lime, and cilantro, and the smokedshrimp pizza with sun-dried toma-toes and leeks. Inside the Museum ofContemporary Art, 220 E. ChicagoAve. (1 block east of Michigan Ave.).

y 312/280-2660. www.mcachicago.org. $$. El: Red Line to Chicago.

The Tin Man, one of many Wizard of Ozsculptures inside Oz Park.

esplanade (1926). Together, they pro-vided an impressive gateway to NorthMichigan Avenue and led to its devel-opment as one of the city’s premierthoroughfares. Views from everydirection are stunning, but for one ofthe city’s best photo ops, look westdown the Chicago River. @ 15 min.El: Green, Purple, Brown, or Orangeline to State.

3 TTrriibbuunnee TToowweerr.. This Gothicdesign was the result of an interna-tional competition to create “themost beautiful office building in theworld,” held in 1922 by the ChicagoTribune newspaper. The winningentry, with a crowning tower and fly-ing buttresses, was based on thedesign of the French cathedral atRouen. The base of the building isstudded with more than 120 stonesfrom famous sites and structures inall 50 states and dozens of foreigncountries—from the Parthenon toBunker Hill. The lobby and gift shopof the Tribune Tower are worthystops for Cubs fans (the baseballteam is owned by the Tribune Com-pany). @ 15 min. 435 N. MichiganAve. y 312/222-3232. Bus: 151.

5= OOzz PPaarrkk.. One of LincolnPark’s most famous residents was L.Frank Baum (1856–1919), the authorof The Wonderful Wizard of Oz, whosettled in Chicago in 1891. Take aquick stroll through this 13-acrepark, created in 1967 in his honor.You’ll find larger-than-life statues ofmany Wizard-related characters,including, most prominently, The TinMan, designed by metal sculptorJohn Kearney. The paths are perfectfor walking off your meal. There’s an“Emerald Garden” for strolling, and

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The eye-catching Tribune Tower combinesGothic elements with traditional sky-scraper design.

05_422083-ch01.qxp 2/20/09 9:34 PM Page 15

Inside the Lincoln Park Zoo, the

8 PPaarrkk PPllaaccee CCaafféé food court(near the Lion house; $) is a goodoption for some quick refreshment.

“Dorothy’s Playlot,” a shady, sprawl-ing playground with wooden climb-ing structures. @ 30 min. 2021 N.Burling St. (at Lincoln Ave.) y 312/747-2200. Free admission. Open dailyuntil dusk. El: Brown Line to Armitage.

6 LLiinnccoollnn PPaarrkk CCoonnsseerrvvaattoorryy..If the weather’s uncooperative, a visitto this conservatory’s climate-controlled environs can be a realmood-lifter. It’s comprised of fourgreenhouses—the Palm house, theFernery, the Tropical house, and theShow house—that offer seasonal dis-plays. Even on the coldest day of win-ter, the Azalea and Camellia showthat begins in late January is sure toput a spring in your step. Outside thefront doors of the conservatory is anexpansive lawn with a French gar-den: Photo opportunity! Don’t missthe lovely Bates Fountain on the con-servatory’s south side, designed byfamous sculptor Augustus Saint-Gau-dens. @ 30 min. Fullerton Ave. (atStockton Dr.). y 312/742-7736. Thebest way to get to Lincoln Park fromthe Miracle Mile is to stroll the lake-front from Oak St. Beach to NorthAve. Beach, then cross the pedestrianbridge over Lake Shore Dr. and intothe park. Free admission. Daily9am–5pm. Bus: 73, 151, or 156.

7 ★★★= LLiinnccoollnn PPaarrkk ZZoooo..The nation’s oldest zoo, founded in1868, is also one of the last freezoos in the country. You’ll want to

meander a while among the land-mark Georgian revival buildings andmodern structures set amid gentlyrolling pathways, verdant lawns, anda profusion of flower gardens. Thestar attraction is the GGrreeaatt AAppeehhoouussee,, where you can watch apefamilies interact. Also worth a stopis the RReeggeennsstteeiinn AAffrriiccaann JJoouurr--nneeyy,, home to elephants, giraffes,rhinos, and other large mammals.Kids flock to the ever-popular SSeeaaLLiioonn PPooooll,, and there’s a PPrriittzzkkeerrCChhiillddrreenn’’ss ZZoooo and FFaarrmm--iinn--tthhee--ZZoooo,, where children are encour-aged to touch a variety of smallanimals under the supervision ofzookeepers. TThhee FFaarrmm is a workingreproduction of a Midwestern farm,complete with chicken coops anddemonstrations of butter churning.Finish off your visit with a ride onthe truly lovely EEnnddaannggeerreeddSSppeecciieess CCaarroouusseell.. @ 2–3 hr. 2200N. Cannon Dr. (at Fullerton Pkwy.).

y 312/742-2000. www.lpzoo.com.Free admission. Buildings daily10am–5pm (until 6:30pm Sat–SunMemorial Day to Labor Day);grounds 9am–6pm (until 7pm Memo-rial Day to Labor Day and until 5pmNov 1–May 31). Bus: 151.

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A Siberian tiger; one of the many big catsfound at the Lincoln Park Zoo.

The Lincoln Park Conservatory’s indoorgardens are lush even in winter.

05_422083-ch01.qxp 2/20/09 9:34 PM Page 16

For a snack with a view, try therooftop eatery, 9 BBiigg CCaattss CCaafféé(near the Birds of Prey exhibit; $),which offers muffins, scones, focacciasandwiches, salads, and flatbreads.

0 CChhiiccaaggoo GGrreeeenn CCiittyy MMaarr--kkeett.. Chefs from Chicago’s bestrestaurants load up their trucks withorganic foods sold at this outdoormarket, which takes place Wednes-day and Saturday mornings alongthe path between 1750 North ClarkSt. and Stockton Drive. You canbrowse the stalls right along withthe pros. You might find fresh goatcheese or (in season) freshly pickedblueberries; if you’re hungry, youcan get a made-to-order French-style crepe. Live music is also fea-tured. @ 30 min.–1 hr. In LincolnPark, between 1750 N. Clark St. andStockton Dr. www.chicagogreencitymarket.org. May–Oct Wed and Sat7am–1:30pm. Bus: 151.

!= PPeeggggyy NNootteebbaaeerrttNNaattuurree MMuusseeuumm.. This environ-mental museum, built into the riseof an ancient sand dune that wasonce the shore of Lake Michigan,features rooftop-level walkwaysoffering a view of birds and otherurban wildlife below. Paths windthrough gardens planted with nativeMidwestern wildflowers andgrasses, and trace the shoreline ofLincoln Park’s newly restored NorthPond. The best exhibit is the BBuutt--tteerrffllyy HHaavveenn,, a greenhousehabitat that’s home toabout 25 Midwesternspecies of butterfliesand moths. Anotherexhibit, CCiittyy SScciieennccee,,displays the inner work-ings of a 3,000-square-foot, two-story “house,”where visitors canview the pipes andducts that connect

homes with power sources milesaway. @ 1 hr. Fullerton Ave. and Can-non Dr. y 773/755-5100. www.chias.org. Admission $9 adults, $7 seniorsand students, $6 kids 3–12, free forkids under 3; free admission Thurs.Mon–Fri 9am–4:30pm; Sat–Sun10am–5pm. Closed Thanksgiving, Dec 25, and Jan 1. Bus: 151.

@ FFuulllleerrttoonn AAvveennuuee BBrriiddggee..Take advantage of a wonderful photoopportunity at the bridge that runsover the lagoon, just before you getto Lake Shore Drive. Standing on thesouth side of Fullerton, you’ll have agreat view of the skyline and LincolnPark (especially at sunset)—it’s theperfect place to take a final snapshotto commemorate your day. @ 5 min.Bus: 151 or 156.

#★★★=WWrriigglleeyy FFiieelldd..There’s no better way to create familylore than a game at Wrigley, whereyour kids (or you) can stuff them-

selves with hot dogs, licoricewhips, and peanuts and

begin their careers asfuture Cubs fans. If youare bringing kids, due tothe noise levels andgeneral commotion of

getting in and out of thestadium, I’d recommend

this only for childrenages 5 and older. Formore on Wrigley Field,see p 24 and p 130.

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The butterfly haven at the PeggyNotebaert Nature Museum ishome to many colorful species.

Chicagoans flock to the Green City Mar-ket in summer for fresh produce.

05_422083-ch01.qxp 2/20/09 9:34 PM Page 17

Chicago Cultural Center

Chicago ArchiCenter

Corner Bakery

Britannica Centre

The Fine Arts Building

Auditorium Buildingand Theatre

Buckingham Fountain

John G. Shedd Aquarium

Field Museumof Natural History

Chicago Hilton and Towers

Kitty O'Shea's

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G R A N T

P A R K

E. Monroe Dr.

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E. Wacker Dr.

E. Randolph Dr.

E. Washington St.

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E. Lake St.

E. Adams St.

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Congress Pkwy.

E. Harrison St.

E. Balbo Ave.

E. 8th St.

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E. 11th St.

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Roosevelt Dr.

E. 13th St.

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Solidarity Dr.

Wm. McFetridge Dr.

E. Waldron Dr.

S. Lake Shore Dr.

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of Chicago

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Onn yyoouurr tthhiirrdd ddaayy iinn CChhiiccaaggoo,, ssttrroollll tthhee ““MMiicchhiiggaann AAvveennuueeCClliiffff,,”” known for its imposing wall of grand buildings. In warmer

months, stop in Grant Park and stand in the refreshing spray of Buck-ingham Fountain, then head to Museum Campus, a green expansethat comprises one of the most impressive collections of museumsin the country. SSTTAARRTT:: CChhiiccaaggoo CCuullttuurraall CCeenntteerr,, ccoorrnneerr ooff SSoouutthh MMiicchhii--

ggaann AAvveennuuee aanndd WWaasshhiinnggttoonn SSttrreeeett.. EEll:: RRaannddoollpphh oorr WWaasshhiinnggttoonn//SSttaattee

EEll ssttaattiioonn..

1★★ CChhiiccaaggoo CCuullttuurraall CCeenntteerr..Built in 1897 as the city’s library, thisNational Historic Landmark’s basicBeaux Arts exterior doesn’t begin tohint at the building’s sumptuousinterior. Inside you’ll find rare mar-ble; fine hardwoods; stained glass;polished brass; and mosaics ofFavrile glass, colored stone, andmother-of-pearl inlaid in white mar-ble. The crowning centerpiece is theworld’s largest Louis Comfort Tiffanyart glass dome, newly renovated in2008, in Preston Bradley Hall—it’sdazzling. The Cultural Center housesone of the Chicago Office of Tourism’smain visitor centers, which makes it an ideal place to start your day.

@ 30 min. 78 E. Washington St.

y 312/744-6630. www.cityofchicago.org/exploringchicago. Free admis-sion. Mon–Thurs 10am–7pm; Fri10am–6pm; Sat 10am–5pm; Sun11am–5pm. Closed holidays. El:Brown, Green, Orange, or Purple

line to Randolph, or Red Line toWashington/State.

2 ★★★ CChhiiccaaggoo AArrcchhiiCCeenntteerr..The Chicago Architecture Founda-tion’s shop and tour center isintended to help everyone appreci-ate the city’s main claim to fame.Exhibits include a scale model ofdowntown Chicago, profiles of thepeople and buildings that shapedthe city’s look, and a searchabledatabase with pictures and informa-tion on many of Chicago’s best-known skyscrapers. The best giftshop in the city offers architecture-focused books, decorative acces-sories, and gifts. “Architectureambassadors” provide informationon a wide range of available tours. @ 30 min. 224 S. MichiganAve. y 312/922-3432. www.architecture.org. Free admission.Exhibits daily 9:30am–4pm; shopand tour desk Mon–Sat 9am–6:30pm, Sun 9am–6pm. El: Red Lineto Jackson.

Stop off at the Chicago ArchiCenter forinformation on guided tours and thecity’s architecture.

The exquisite interior and Tiffany Domeof the Chicago Cultural Center.

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3 CCoorrnneerr BBaakkeerryy,, a casualrestaurant and bakery, offers sweettreats (don’t miss the tart lemonbars dusted with powdered sugar),plus a range of substantial saladsand sandwiches (try the ham andSwiss on pretzel bread). 224 S.Michigan Ave. (at Jackson). y 312/431-7600. $.

4 BBrriittaannnniiccaa CCeennttrree.. To viewthis building’s highlight, look up. Apart of Michigan Avenue’s distinc-tive wall of buildings since 1924, Bri-tannica Centre, originally known asthe Straus Building and then as theContinental National InsuranceCompany building, is known for the glass, blue-lighted “beehive”ornament atop its pyramidal peak.The venerable Encyclopaedia Britan-nica, the oldest continuously pub-lished reference work in the English

language, has been headquarteredin Chicago since the mid-1930s.

@ 5 min. 310 S. Michigan Ave.

y 312/347-7159. El: Red Line toJackson.

5 TThhee FFiinnee AArrttss BBuuiillddiinngg.. This1885 building was originally a show-room for Studebaker carriages. Con-verted into an arts center in 1898,the building provided offices andstudios for the likes of Wizard of Ozauthor L. Frank Baum and FrankLloyd Wright. Take a quick walkthrough the marble-and-woodlobby, and, if you like, ride the vin-tage elevators to the top floor toview walls of spectacular muralsthat date from the building’s conver-sion. @ 30 min. 410 S. MichiganAve. y 312/427-7602. Free admis-sion. Daily 7am–10pm. El: BrownLine to Library.

6 ★ AAuuddiittoorriiuumm BBuuiillddiinngg aannddTThheeaattrree.. Designed and built in1889 by Louis Sullivan and DankmarAdler, the Auditorium was an archi-tectural wonder of its time: theheaviest and most massive edificeon earth, the most fireproof buildingever constructed, and the tallest

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The distinctive Britannica Centre is bestknown for its pyramidal peak.

Scenic Lake Shore Drive offers marvelousviews of Lake Michigan (see p 90).

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building in Chicago. Today, the4,000-seat theater hosts touringBroadway productions. One-hourtours on Mondays allow visitorstime to marvel at the gorgeousarched design (lit by thousands ofbulbs) that Sullivan created using histrademark ornamentation—in thiscase, elaborate golden stencilingand gold plaster medallions.

@ 30 min. (1 hr. if you take a tour).50 E. Congress Pkwy. y 312/922-2110. www.auditoriumtheatre.org. 1-hr. guided tour Mon 10am andnoon (call y 312/431-2389 ext. 0 tomake reservations) for $8 per per-son. El: Brown Line to Library.

7 BBuucckkiinngghhaamm FFoouunnttaaiinn..Grant Park’s immense baroque centerpiece—the starting point for the famous Route 66 to LosAngeles—is constructed of pinkGeorgia marble and patterned afterthe Latona Fountain at Versailles(although Buckingham is twice itssize). The fountain, donated to thecity of Chicago by philanthropistKate Buckingham, first opened in1927. From April through October,the fountain spurts columns of water

up to 150 feet in the air every houron the hour; beginning at 4pm, awhirl of colored lights and musicmakes for quite a show (the fountainshuts down at 11pm). If you visit inspring, be sure to stroll the adjacentesplanades and their lovely rose gar-dens. @ 10 min. Inside Grant Park,at Columbus Dr. and Congress Pkwy.www.chicagoparkdistrict.com. Apr–Oct daily 10am–11pm. Bus: 6 or 146.

8 ★★★= JJoohhnn GG.. SShheeddddAAqquuaarriiuumm.. The first thing you’llsee as you enter the world’s largestindoor aquarium is the 90,000-gallontank occupying the Beaux Arts–stylecentral rotunda. The CaribbeanCoral Reef exhibit features nursesharks, barracudas, stingrays, and ahawksbill sea turtle. The next don’t-miss exhibit is Amazon Rising: Sea-sons of the River, displaying piranhas,birds, sloths, insects, spiders, snakes,caiman lizards, and monkeys. WildReef–Sharks at Shedd features 26interconnected habitats (more than750,000 gallons of water) thatencompass a Philippine coral reefpatrolled by sharks and other predators. Another highlight is the3-million-gallon saltwater OOcceeaa--nnaarriiuumm,, a stunning indoor marinemammal pavilion that re-creates aPacific Northwest coastal environ-ment. Here, a crew of friendly train-ers puts dolphins through theirpaces during daily scheduled performances. @ 1 hr. 1200 S. Lake Shore Dr. y 312/939-2438.

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The Auditorium Building and Theatre features exquisite interior ornamentation.

Catch the nightly sound and light show atBuckingham Fountain in summer.

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www.sheddaquarium.org. Ocea-narium is closed at press time; callor visit the website for updatedinformation. The Total ExperiencePass (to the Wild Reef, Amazon Ris-ing, Caribbean Reef, Waters of theWorld, a pet show and a choice ofthe 4-D experience) is $18 for adults,$14 seniors and kids 3–11. Freeadmission to aquarium Mon–TuesSept–Nov, 1 week in June and 1week in Oct. See website for moreinfo. Mon–Fri 9am–5pm (until 6pmMemorial Day to Labor Day);Sat–Sun 9am–6pm. Bus: 6 or 146.

9 ★= FFiieelldd MMuusseeuumm ooffNNaattuurraall HHiissttoorryy.. Indulge yourinner Indiana Jones while exploringthis renowned museum’s 9 acres ofexhibits. The museum was foundedin 1893 to house natural history col-lections brought to Chicago for the

World’s Columbian Exposition. Awonderful new addition, the CCrrooww nnFFaammiillyy PPllaayyllaabb,, caters to theyoung set with hands-on digs fordinosaur bones, a dress-up stationwhere kids can don a coyote cos-tume to trot through a mock-up ofthe Illinois woodlands, and a sciencelab, where kids can examine insectsin amber, fossils, and animal skulls.

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Though Chicago is a great city to explore on foot, Lake ShoreDrive is no place for pedestrians. People have been seriously injuredand even killed attempting to dodge the traffic on this busy road.Near Grant Park, cross only in crosswalks at Jackson Boulevard orRandolph, East Monroe, or East Balbo drives, or by using the under-pass on the Museum Campus. North of the river, utilize underpassesor bridges at East Ohio Street, Chicago Avenue, Oak Street, andNorth Avenue.

WWaallkkeerr’’ss WWaarrnniinngg

The Oceanarium’s Beluga whales at theJohn G. Shedd Aquarium.

“Sue,” the famous Tyrannosaurus rex fos-sil at the Field Museum of Natural History.

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UndergroundAdventure

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Kid’s FieldKid’s FieldTrip Store

Animal Biology

BirdHabitats

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NatureWalk

The Field Museum Store

SOUTH ENTRANCE

World of Birds

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Life Over Time

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Plants of the World

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Field Museum of Natural History

Standing proudly at the north sideof the grand ? SSttaannlleeyy FFiieelldd HHaallllis the largest, most complete Tyran-nosaurus rex fossil ever unearthed.The $8.4-million specimen is namedÁ ★★ ““SSuuee”” for the paleontologistwho found it in South Dakota in 1990.Head downstairs to ª ★ IInnssiiddeeAAnncciieenntt EEggyypptt,, a spellbindingexhibit that realistically depictsscenes from Egyptian funeral, reli-gious, and other social practices. £ TTrraavveelliinngg tthhee PPaacciiffiicc re-createsscenes of island life in the SouthPacific; there’s even a full-scalemodel of a Maori meeting house.¢ AAffrriiccaa is an assemblage ofAfrican artifacts and provocative,interactive multimedia presentations.Two other signature highlights: the

taxidermied bodies of ° BBuusshhmmaann(a legendary lowland gorilla fromthe city’s Lincoln Park Zoo) and the¤ MMaann--EEaattiinngg LLiioonnss ooff TTssaavvoo(the pair of male lions who munchednearly 140 British railway workersconstructing a bridge in East Africa in1898). @ 2–3 hr. Roosevelt Rd. andLake Shore Dr. y 312/922-9410.www.fieldmuseum.org. Admission$14 adults, $11 seniors and studentswith ID, $9 kids 4–11; free for teach-ers, armed forces personnel in uni-form, and kids 2 and under. Freeadmission in Feb, plus second Monin Mar–Dec and a week each in Septand Oct (see website for info). Daily9am–5pm; last admission 4pm.Closed Dec 25 and Jan 1. Bus: 6, 10,12, 130, or 146.

05_422083-ch01.qxp 2/20/09 9:34 PM Page 23

! KKiittttyy OO’’SShheeaa’’ss is one of themost authentic Irish pubs in town(even though it’s a hotel bar), withimported Irish bartenders and traditional Irish music. Pick up anIrish/American newspaper at theentrance, then relax with a pint in acozy booth. If you’ve worked up anappetite, the lamb stew, shepherd’spie, or fish and chips will keep youfeeling as if you’ve landed on theEmerald Isle. 720 S. Michigan Ave.

y 312/294-6860. $. •

style, which is the most magnificentin the city. @ 15 min. 720 S. Michi-gan Ave. (at Balbo Dr.). y 312/922-4400. www.hilton.com. El: RedLine to Harrison/State.

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The massive Chicago Hilton and Towershas been a fixture in Chicago since 1927.

It’s been a long dry spell: The Cubbies haven’t made a WorldSeries since 1945, and haven’t been World Champs since 1908, butthat never deters die-hard Cubs fans, who are perennial optimists.Each April, they show up for opening day at Wrigley Field in what isalmost certainly inclement weather, sure that their team’s year hasarrived. (Wrigley Field, 1060 W. Addison St.; y 773/404-CUBS; www.cubs.mlb.com; see p 130.)

Win or lose, a day at Wrigley is a don’t-miss Chicago experience(and tickets tend to sell out accordingly). From the ivy-covered outfieldwalls to the hand-operated scoreboard and “W” or “L” flag announc-ing the outcome of the game to the unfortunates who couldn’tattend, Wrigley Field is a pure slice of Americana. Buy a hot dog andsome Cracker Jack, and join in the chorus of “Take Me Out to the Ball-game” during the seventh-inning stretch (since the death of long-time announcer Harry Caray, the crowd is led by a guest singer,often a visiting celebrity). Because Wrigley Field is small, just aboutevery seat is decent. Families, however, might want to avoid thebleacher seats, because fans there can get a little overzealous intheir rooting for the home team (and drinking).

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0 CChhiiccaaggoo HHiillttoonn aanndd TTooww--eerrss.. This massive brick and stonebuilding was the largest hotel in theworld when it opened in 1927. It’sworth a stop to gaze at the GrandStair lobby, done in a classical-rococo

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