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INESCOPFootwear Technological Institute

Use of advanced tools for multilocalized designand manufacturing in the footwear industry

Dr. Enrique Montiel

Industry of Design-Based Products: Creating Value through Customization

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What is INESCOP?

Independent service organisation.Founded in 1971. Non-profit making institution.More than 500 associated companies.

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INESCOP works as a Technology Centre that supports footwear industries to develop scientific and technical activities that cannot be undertaken by themselves.

INESCOP owns 20 patents on different systems, most of them transferred to the industry for exploitation. INESCOP has participated in over 90 EU projects since 1986.

Technology Centre

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Testing services, quality control.Technology development.Applied research.Industrial and fashion design.Environment.Training.Information.

INESCOP’s services

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Close to the factories

Network of laboratories: 6 technical units and 1 affiliated centre

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The world footwear sector

Value of the world footwear market:

1All data obtained from World Footwear Yearbook 2011

246 Billion Euros1

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The world footwear sector

In 2010 for the first time ever World footwear production exceeded: 20 Billion Pairs

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The world footwear sector

Manufacture is heavily concentrated in Asia: they produce 87% of all the pairs of shoes produced worldwide

European Countries produce only 4% of world footwear pairs

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The European footwear sector

Europe: 20% of world shoe consumption

destination of 45% of world imports

Europe exports only 11% of world total footwear

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The European footwear sector

9 European countries

are in the top15 world footwear exporters

Spain

Italy

Portugal

23%Share of allfootwearexported in the world

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The Spanish footwear sector

The Valencian Region is the hub of the Spanish footwear

industry, although it is also present in areas such as

Castilla La Mancha and La Rioja.

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The Spanish footwear sector

In 2011, Spain exported to China footwear with an

average value of 46.43€

Footwear average value

Exported

40.2€

Imported

5.9€

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The Spanish footwear sector

The Spanish industry has been able to increase its exports to the most important European markets, but

lost some share in USA.

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The Spanish footwear sector

Imports grew rapidly, both from China and from European markets

such as Italy and France.

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The Spanish footwear sector

Footwear exports concentrate in leather shoes, while imports concentrate in cheap

rubber & plastic ones.

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The product problem

Price

Life-cycle

10 y.

0.5 y.

80€ 12,000€

Short life cycle + low price( + extremely short series: customisation)

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The time-to-market problem

Typical design, manufacture and commercialisation cycle

…but there are other cycles

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The time-to-market problem

One season/year design, manufacture and commercialisation cycle

e.g. Kelme (sports footwear)

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The time-to-market problem

Continuous design, manufacture and commercialisation cycle

e.g. Tempe (Zara)

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The communication problem

Headquarters

Lasts

Heels

Soles

Manufacturing

Prototypes

DesignPrototypes

LastsHeelsSoles

ManufacturingDistribution

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Possible solutions

Flexibility

Speed

Accuracy

Integration:

Marketing support: new means

at the design stageat the manufacturing stage

seamless communication of teams

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Proven experience

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Case 1: Kelme

Problem: to develop a high performance FUTSAL shoe, in collaboration with Michelin, reducing the development/manufacturing time.

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Case 1: Kelme

Solution: to integrate new biomechanical paradigms,

All shoe images in this presentation are Virtual Models

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Case 1: Kelme

Solution: to integrate new biomechanical paradigms, new materials

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Case 1: Kelme

Solution: to integrate new biomechanical paradigms, new materials and new sole design in a digital model,

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Case 1: Kelme

Solution: to integrate new biomechanical paradigms, new materials and new sole design in a digital model, using an integrated knowledge-based CAD/CAM solution.

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Case 2: Sacha London

Problem: to add value to the point-of-sale, and to increase mass media impact of the brand.

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Case 2: Sacha London

Solution: to offer the chance to customise

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Case 2: Sacha London

Solution: to offer the chance to customise all the footwear collection,

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Case 2: Sacha London

Solution: to offer the chance to customise all the footwear collection, using a tablet

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Case 2: Sacha London

Solution: to offer the chance to customise all the footwear collection, using a tablet and an web-based online customisation system (iShoe),

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Case 2: Sacha London

Solution: to offer the chance to customise all the footwear collection, using a tablet and web-based online customisation system (iShoe), and offering the possibility to test the model in an Virtual Mirror (iMirror).

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Case 3: Tempe (Inditex)

Problem: complex and multifactorial operational environment, with multiple conditional factors.

…some data:

2 April 2012 published data, INDITEX group

INDITEX has 5,618 shops, opening at least 1 new shop/day.

TEMPE designs, manufactures and distributes footwear for all INDITEX brands.

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Case 3: Tempe (Inditex)

Footwear accounts for 10% of INDITEX’s total sales.

Footwear is INDITEX’s most profitable product.

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Case 3: Tempe (Inditex)

60 million shoes/year (1 billion €).

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Case 3: Tempe (Inditex)

TEMPE’s Design Center employs 110 designers, working on the two-season collections and the out-of-season designs.

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Case 3: Tempe (Inditex)

Footwear is worldwide manufactured in 200 factories.

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Case 3: Tempe (Inditex)

Footwear design and production has 2 main seasons, but they also maintain a continuous design/manufacturing cycle for the whole year (to cope with emerging trends & oversales).

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Case 3: Tempe (Inditex)

Every year 25,000 prototypes are designed and manufactured…

…only 8,000 of them are selected for final production.

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Case 3: Tempe (Inditex)

Solution: To use INESCOP’s integrated CAD/CAM solutions, starting from the shoe design phase.

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Case 3: Tempe (Inditex)

Solution: To use INESCOP’s integrated CAD/CAM solutions, starting from the shoe design phase. To exchange information using compatible data files between design and production centres: components (lasts, heels, soles) and whole footwear.

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Solution: To use INESCOP’s integrated CAD/CAM solutions, starting from the shoe design phase. To exchange information using compatible data files between design and production centres: components (lasts, heels, soles) and whole footwear. To create hyper-realistic virtual prototypes.

Case 3: Tempe (Inditex)

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Case 4: CallagHan

Problem: to add value to their shoes to differentiate them from their competitors.

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Case 4: CallagHan

Solution: to design and develop a casual shoe with an integrated electronic device that records physical activity

Result from the FP6 EU Project No. 507378“CEC-made-shoe. Custom, environment and comfort made shoe”

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Case 4: CallagHan

Solution: to design and develop a casual shoe with an integrated electronic device that records physical activity and is connected to a web-based personal trainer.

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Case 5: Duna

Problem: to allow the integration of customised footwear manufacture in an industrial line of serial production.

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New Products LinesNew Products Lines

New communication systemsNew communication systems

Specific solutions to integrate different technologies in the production processes

Specific solutions to integrate different technologies in the production processes

All products must be developed according to the European laws for medical devicesAll products must be developed according to the European laws for medical devices

Small production lot till the single pair or shoe with specific technical solution against production industrial machines generally studied for simply workout and lots with high volume.

Small production lot till the single pair or shoe with specific technical solution against production industrial machines generally studied for simply workout and lots with high volume.

The large range of technical info on the products to be transferred to end-users, customers and medical world require appropriate communication systems.

The large range of technical info on the products to be transferred to end-users, customers and medical world require appropriate communication systems.

DUNA is official partner of “SSHOES - Special Shoes Movement” European Project Grant agreement no.: NMP-2008-SME-2-R.229261DUNA is official partner of “SSHOES - Special Shoes Movement” European Project Grant agreement no.: NMP-2008-SME-2-R.229261Special R&D ProgramsSpecial R&D Programs

Case 5: Duna

The technology innovation in DUNA

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Case 5: Duna

Solution: by means of the research project SSHOES3 (Special Shoes Movement), to develop a completely digital process to manufacture a customised diabetic shoe:

3 NMP2-SE-2009-229261, Seventh Framework Programme.

Biomechanical analysis (MiniLab).

Foot scanning (3D scanner).

Activity pattern analysis.

Knowledge-based CAD/CAM design.

Robotic cell production.

Testing devices.

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Future trends:

Seamless integration of functional analysis/biomechanics, material science and comfort issues in CAD/CAM software.

Low-cost robotic cells for short series production as well as massive introduction of robotics.

Better simulation tools, both for product and processes: VR, AR.

Better use of ICT tools: interoperability, embedding Knowledge in products.

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You are invited…

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INESCOPFootwear Technological Institute

POLIGONO INDUSTRIAL CAMPO ALTO C/ Alemania, 102

03600 ELDA ·ALICANTE· SPAINTel. +34 965 39 52 13 - Fax +34 965 38 10 45

E-mail: emontiel@inescop.eshttp://www.inescop.es

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