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2002 – 2005 Mini Cooper S Grille Install Instructions

Lower Front Grille

BEFORE AFTER Package Contents 1 perforated grille (Stiletto, RAZR, or Monster) 6 Zip Tie Mounting Pads – 1 is for the temp. sensor 5 UV resistant Zip Ties 1 piece of sandpaper

Tools Required Torx bit #T30 #2 Phillips head screwdriver Small flat head screwdriver Socket (either 8mm or 10mm with an extension) Razor blade (or Utility knife) Some sort of adhesive (Goop, Epoxy or Super Glue) Tin snips (for optional installation)

OK, the front bumper cover has to come off, but don’t get excited or intimidated – its not that big of a deal. Create a safe work area by placing a blanket or large towel in front of the car. You will need to rest the bumper cover to disengage the lights. Using the phillips head screw driver, remove the 2 plastic screws in each wheel well and then the screws that are just under the front end. It may help to turn the front tires to increase the access for the screws in the wheel wells.

Here are the T30 Torx screws

Here you can see the back end of the bolts you will remove via the wheel wells

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The only thing holding the bumper cover on the vehicle at this point is the 2 Torx screws and the little gibs that can be seen in the 2nd photo on this page. You may have to depress the gibs to get them released from the bracket. Once this is done, you will need to twist the light sockets to disconnect them from the bumper cover. There are turn signals in the fender trim, turn signals in the bumper and fogs if so equipped. Don’t forget the temperature sensor which is attached to the OEM grille.

Note: If you do not have access to a T30 Torx bit, you may be able to use a smaller “Allen” or Hex wrench to remove these screws. There probably not overly tight since if they were they would likely “mushroom” the plastic of the bumper cover.

1 of the 2 screws Access to the hex head bolt

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Lay the bumper cover upside down on a soft surface (towel or blanket). You don’t want to scratch the paint. Remove the OEM grille. There are 2 screws and 11 or so plastic gibs. Using the sand paper scuff up five (photo shows 7) locations where you will place the zip tie mounts. Clean the area with some alcohol or other cleaner so that the tabs will adhere to the plastic. I use an adhesive called “GOOP” to insure they stay stuck. Just be sure not to let it ooze into the hole for the zip tie.

Using a razor, you will need to cut the gibs from the bumper cover. PLEASE be careful not to cut your hand or go to deep into the plastic. A razor that would go into a utility knife would be best as the thickness does not change along the length. A rush job here could really botch up the whole look. Take your time! I went this far and then started again from the opposing side so I didn’t have to use too much force. If you don’t want to remove these look to optional install on last page!

NOTE: The mounts need time to adhere to the plastic, I let mine set over night! Using the screws that were holding the OEM grill in place, attach the grille (RAZR grilles may have to a hole drilled in the grille for the screw to fit). The grille must be “bowed” to fit the contour of the bumper cover be sure to do this when positioning and installing the screws. Then begin securing the grille with the supplied zip ties. Do not over tighten then zip ties, it could buckle. You just want it secure.

2 more mounts go under here to support the bottom of the grille

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Here is a photo showing it ready to go back on the vehicle. Use a zip tie to attach the temperature sensor to the grille. Be sure to place it on the driver’s side so that the wire will reach. Reinstall the bumper cover, remember to connect all the lights and the temperature sensor! It goes on the opposite of how you took it off. You are done now GET MOTORING!

Optional installation If you do not wish to remove the plastic gibs (this will allow you to remove the GrilleGuy.com grille and go back to the OEM grille) on the bumper cover, you can cut out the grille around the gibs. Simply lay the grille on the backside of the bumper cover and mark using a marker where to cut, be sure that the grille contour matches the bumper cover so that the notches will be cut in the correct place. The grille material can be cut using tin snips or a band saw. You can also use a flat blade screw driver and a hammer to “chisel” or “shear” the material to cut notches. The remainder of the installation is the same as listed above. This is the daily driver of The GrilleGuy so if you see me give me a friendly honk!

Route the zip tie around the body

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Rear Grilles

BEFORE AFTER Package Contents 3 perforated grilles (Stiletto, RAZR, or Monster) – 2 Sides and 1 center insert 12 Zip Tie Mounting Pads 14 UV resistant Zip Ties 1 piece sandpaper Tools Required Razor blade (or Hacksaw blade (fine)) Some sort of adhesive (Goop, Epoxy or Super Glue) Drill motor and 5/32” drill bit Special note These grilles can be installed without the removal of the rear bumper cover, but you need to be patient and have small hands. If you want to remove the bumper cover you can get some advise from this link (just scroll down to the bumper cover removal from a Mini S. http://tinyurl.com/c6fyy. Also note that the adhesive must dry overnight so plan on completing the install the following afternoon.

The OEM grilles (if you can call them that) must be removed. Here is a pic from the backside so that you can see what you are dealing with. I removed mine without the use of a screwdriver. I simply put pressure on the gib and then pushed the grille inward. Once the first gib is released the others are easier. To gain access on the vehicle, you will have to flex the muffler heat shield so you hands can get to the backside of the bumper cover.

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Use a razor blade or a hacksaw blade (only the bade – hold it by hand). You must be very careful if no to scratch the paint or to cut too deep. A good technique is to get a deep score and then bend the gib backwards. It can then easily be cutoff. I then sanded the remains down smooth to the rest of the bumper cover. Again be very careful as this is sandpaper! I also scuffed up the areas where the zip tie mounts will be placed and then wiped them to remove any debris.

All of the gibs must be removed from both the left and the right openings. At this point you need to place the zip tie mounts. A small amount of “goop” placed on the mount – around the edges so as not to have it ooze into the opening blocking the zip tie. I suggest letting the adhesive setup for the night. At this point you can move to the center rear grille. I also suggest that you have some black spray paint to paint the muffler heat shield. This will make it “disappear” behind the silver grille. I

GrilleGuy.com, LLC haven’t painted my heat shield but plan to in the near future. I wish I had done it before I installed the grilles so if you plan to do it now is the time!

If you are installing the grille with the bumper cover installed then here is where the hard part begins. You will need to latch the zip ties and then tighten them. A good way to get started is to place them in the grille like this before placing it behind the bumper cover. It will also help if you familiarize yourself with the mounts as you will not be able to see them but will need to be able to guide the zip tie thru the slot.

This is obviously much easier if the bumper cover is removed, but if you are willing to squeeze into a tight area and likely get your hands scratched a little you can save some time.

This is the fog light grille. You can see that there are two gibs that hold this in place. It is easily removed by squeezing the gibs inward and then removing the grille. The right side of the bumper cover has a hole where the gib was that we will use to route the zip tie. The left side will require you to drill a small hole to allow the left zip tie to be routed. The fog light grille is a tight fit into the opening and should be pressed in until touching the recessed lip.

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This is a RAZR grille installed in the fog grille. REVISION: SEE THE ADDEMDUM ON THE LAST PAGE!

Scoop Grilles

BEFORE AFTER Package Contents 1 perforated grilles (Stiletto, RAZR, or Monster) Tools Required #2 Phillips Screwdriver 8mm Socket Nut driver or Ratchet

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Raise the bonnet and remove the intercooler diverter. It is held on with two Phillips head screws at the back and two 8mm nuts at the front. Be careful as once the 8mm nuts are removed the top side of the scoop could fall out of the bonnet causing some unsightly scratches. Place the grille into the intercooler diverter. Note: The indentation at the top center is required to clear a piece of the scoop. There are also several locations where the diverter has thick sections. If the grille will not set against the back surface due to any of these ribs then remove a small amount of material in those areas. I suggest using diagonal cutters, a belt sander or some tin snips to aid you in this process. Hopefully modification will not be required, but we do try to make these as tight a fit as possible. When reinstalling the intercooler diverter, be sure it is as far forward as possible to “sandwich” the grille between the diverter and the scoop. The grille does not vibrate or wiggle. Close the bonnet and get motoring! Shown here in powder coated black Razr material.

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ADDENDUM

Rear Fog Grille

Here is a picture of the the holes I drilled to mount the grille. I drilled 2 just to simplify things. Prepare the grille by placing the zip ties in the grille as shown. These two zip ties will route through the holes in the bumper cover and then back through the head of the zip tie and through the front of the grille. This way you will be able to tighten the grille from the front. Trim the zip tie and then push the excess back through the hole.