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ADDED FULLNESS 133

ADDED FULLNESS: PRINCIPLE #2Principle. To increase fullness in a garment to an amount greater than the dart excess provides, the lengthand/or width within the pattern’s frame must be increased by slashing and spreading where fullness is needed.

Corollary. Adding to the outside of the pattern’s frame increases the amount of fabric in a garment and can

change the silhouette.

One-sided fullness. One side of a pattern is spreadto increase fullness, forming an arc shape at the topand bottom.

Unequal fullness. One side of the pattern isspread more than the other, forming an arc shape at

the top and bottom.

One-sided

fullness

Equal

fullness

Unequal

fullness

Compare the silhouette differences between thedesign and the basic garment when adding fullness.

Three Types of Added FullnessTo add fullness, the working pattern is increased inone of three ways:

Equal fullness. Opposite sides of a pattern arespread equally, increasing fullness to topandbottom.

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134 Chapter 7

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3

Identifying Added FullnessFullness from the basic dart is always directed to thebust. Therefore, designs can be identified as havingadded fullness if fullness passes through the lengthor width of the garment (Figure 1), when fullness is

directed away from the bust (Figure 2), and when thegarment extends beyond the outline of the figure(Figure 3). Fullness may appear in the form of gath-ers, pleats, drape, cowls, or flares. Fullness can be onthe horizontal or vertical, or at an angle, and can bedeveloped as equal, unequal, or one-sided fullness.The dart may become part of added fullness whenneeded.

Added fullness may be combined with Dart Ma-nipulation (Principle #1) and Contouring (Principle#3). (Examples of this will be illustrated throughoutthe text.)

The patternmaker determines the type of full-ness required by the way the sketch is rendered.When the patternmaker is unsure of the designer’sintent, it is best to ask before developing the pattern.

Method for Plotting the Pattern

for Added Fullness

Added fullness is plotted as a series of straight slashlines drawn across the pattern in the direction thefullness appears on the design (horizontally, verti-cally, or on an angle). When preparing the pattern,

the beginning and end of each slash line depend onwhere the fullness begins and ends on the design.The dart excess is often absorbed into the addedfullness.

Formula for Adding Fullness

To determine the amount of added fullness desired,give consideration to the fabric type. Light-weightand loosely woven fabrics (cottons and chiffons, forexample) may require more fullness than bulky,closely woven fabrics. Using a 26-inch waist as an

example, added fullness may equal:

• One and one-half times the measurement (26 13 39)

• Two times the measurement (26 26 52)

• Two and one-half times the measurement (26 26 13 65)

To help train the eye in visualizing differentamounts of fullness, make examples, using 10 inchesas the measure to be increased. Follow the formulafor each example. The finished length of each sam-

ple should be 10 inches. Save the examples for usewhen determining fullness.

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ADDED FULLNESS 135

PrincessFront

PrincessSide Front

C ent er f r ont

Slash 1 1

2 2

3 3

4 4

Slash

Slash Slash

Slash Slash

Figure 1

Fullness on the Princess Line

Design Analysis: Design 1

The princess is gathered on each side of stylelinefrom waist to under bust and at front side seam, in-dicating parallel fullness. Design 2 is for practice.

Pattern Plot and Manipulation

Figure 1• Trace front andside front princess panels. Include

grainline. The basic back is not illustrated.

• Draw slash lines where the gathers indicate.Number each section and cut from paper.

Figures 2,3• Draw grain guidelines on paper.

• Cut through slash lines separating patterns.

• Place cut pattern parts on paper with center fronton fold. Match grainline of pattern with guide-

line. Spread equally using the ratio 1 1/2:1 or 2:1(shaded area). Secure pattern parts.

• Trace outline of pattern and blend styleline.Draw grainline and complete for test fit.

Design 2 Design 1

FRONT

G ui d el i n

e

1

2

3

4

Paper

Figure 2

SIDE FRONT

1

2

3

4

G

ui d el i n e

Figure 3

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ADDED FULLNESS 137

Added Fullness to a Dart Leg


Analyze the design and plot of the patterns.


Figures 1a,b• Remove dart excess from shoulder.

• Plot the front and back design as indicated.

• Trim excess. Back-trim shoulder

Figure 2• Slash dart legs to bust point. Close waist dart.

• Dart leg is shaped to contour the bust.

• Cut pattern from paper. Draw slash lines.

Figure 3• Cut slash lines to, not through, side seam.• Spread a 2:1 ratio (trace and blend).

Design 1 Design 2

FRONT

3"

1"

1 1/4 "

X

Trim

Measure

to securegathers

Figure 1a

1/4 "

Trim

BACK

1 1/4 "3 "

Figure 1b

FRONT

1/2 "

1/2 "

Trim 1/4 "

Trim 1/4 "

Figure 2

FRONT

F o l d

Gathers

Figure 3

Design 3

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138 Chapter 7

Gathers on a Style Dart


The bust point is 1 inch from the original location.The gathers are directed away from the bust (one-sided added fullness). Design 2 is for practice.

Pattern Plot and ManipulationFigure 1• Trace front pattern and redraw curved dart leg

1 inch from bust point.

• Square a line from center front 3 1/2 inches upfrom bust level that equals bust span.

• From this point draw a curved dart leg to dartpoint, and to the shoulder 1 1/4 inch from neck.

• Extend shoulder 1 1/4 inch and draw a curve linepassing through mid-armhole to the styleline.

• Draw slash lines and trim shaded area of theneckline.

Figure 2• Cut style dart to shifted bust point and close waist

dart. (One dart leg will not meet the waistline.)Blend waist at the finish of the pattern.

• Cut slash lines to, not through, shoulder.

• Spread slash lines to a ratio of 2:1.

Figure 3• Trace the back pattern. Draw and trim the neck-

line. Extend shoulder 1 1/4 inch.• Complete the patterns for a test fit.

Design 1 Design 2

Move1"

3 1/2 "

1 1/4 "

1 1/4 "

Trim

Figure 1

FRONT

F o l d

Close and blend

G a

t h e r s

Figure 2

1 1/4 "

1 1/4 "

1"ext.

3/4 "

BACK

Extend

Trim

Figure 3

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ADDED FULLNESS 139

Fullness to Insets


Gathers follow the edge of the inset band. Dart ex-cess (gathers) is directed to bust level. The remaininggathers indicate one-sided added fullness.


Figure 1• Trace front pattern.

• Draw inset band 1 1/2 inches wide.

• Draw three slash lines from bust to band 2 inchesup from center front. Notch.

• Draw other slash lines as indicated.

• Cut pattern from paper.

Figure 2• Cut inset band from pattern.

• Cut slash lines to, not through, pattern’s outlineor bust point. Close dart legs.

• Spread added fullness as desired.

• Trace and blend the spread area.

Figures 3a and bBack: Trace back and draw inset band.

• Extend 1 inch at center back.

• Separate patterns, draw grainline, mark notchesand complete the patterns for a test fit.

Design 1 Design 2

1 1/2"

2"

Figure 1

C u

t o

n f o l d

Close

F o l d

Blend

Band

Figure 2

BACK

1 1/2 "

Band

Figure 3a

BACK

B a n d

C ent er b a ck

1" extension

Figure 3b

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140 Chapter 7

Added Fullness Design VariationsThe practice designs are based on added fullness. Develop patterns for each design, or design other variationsfor practice. Which design requires an add-on for fullness? The finished garment should look like the design.If it does not, locate the problem and try again.

Pattern development for Design 3 may be viewed on the DVD, by page and design numbers.

Design 1

Design 3

Design 2

Design 4

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ADDED FULLNESS 141

BLOUSON FOUNDATIONA blouson is a billowy-topped garment with an overhang anywhere from below the bust to the ankle. Theblousing is controlled (held in place) by one of the following methods:

• Lining cut shorter than the finished length of the outer part (Design 3).

• Belt secures blouson to waist (Design 1).

• Casing accommodates elastic or drawstring (within the garment’s frame).

• A band, attached below the separate blouse measuring less than hip measurement (Design 2).

The blouson foundation is developed by adding length and width to the pattern within its frame and atits outline. This is an application of Principle #2, combined with manipulation of the existing dart excess(Principle #1). To determine the amount of length added for the overhang, add twice the amount desired. Forexample, for a 1 1/2-inch overhang, add 3 inches to the existing length.

Blouson Designs 1, 2, and 3 are but a few examples of this style. Design 1 illustrates modified fullness. In-cluded is a method for increasing fullness. Designs 2 and 3 are practice designs.

Design 1 Design 2 Design 3

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142 Chapter 7

Modified BlousonPattern Plot and Development

Figures 1 and 2• Trace front two-dart pattern and back.

• Measure down 1 1/2 inches or more from front

and back waistline. Draw a parallel line acrossthe hem for overhang, creating a blouson effect.

• Square up from hem to armhole.

• Measure out 1 1/2 inches or more at front andback side seams. Draw line from hem to armhole.To true side dart of front, fold dart and draw linefrom hem to armhole (see page 10).

• Complete pattern for test fit.

1 1/2 " for 3/4 " blouson

1" extension

BACKBLOUSON

FRONTBLOUSON

Figure 1 Figure 2

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Blouson with Increased FullnessPattern Plot and Manipulation

Figures 1 and 2• Trace front and back patterns. Include the back

horizontal balance line (HBL). Add to preferred

length.• Draw slash lines from front and back waist to ap-

proximately 3 inches up from armhole curve(Figure 1).

• Draw slash line from dart points of waist andshoulder darts to a joining point at the back HBL(Figure 2).

Figures 3 and 4• Cut slash lines to, not through, armhole (front)

and pivotal point (back).

• Close back shoulder dart.

• Place patterns on paper and spread slash sections

1 1/2 inches (varies). Secure pattern and trace.• Add 1 inch at the side seam of back pattern to

balance the fullness between back and front.

• Add desired length (example: 2 inches belowwaist for 1-inch overlay).

• Complete pattern for test fit.

ADDED FULLNESS 143

3 "

FRONT

S l a

s h

2 1/2 "

Figure 1

HBL S l a

s h

Pivotalpoint

S l a

s h

S l a

s h

3 "

1 1/2 "

Figure 2

FRONT

1 1 / 2 "

1 1/2"

Extend

length

Figure 3

BACK

1 "1 1/ 2 "

Close

1 1/2"

Extend

length

Figure 4

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