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Cultivando Nacion: Alternative Agri-culture in Post María Puerto Rico
A Thesis Submitted in Partial Fulfillment of the
Requirements of the Renée Crown University Honors Program at
Syracuse University
Deborah Orieta
Candidate for Bachelor of Arts
and Renée Crown University Honors
Spring 2020
Honors Thesis in Geography and Food Studies
Thesis Advisor: _______________________
Dr. Thomas Perreault, Geography Department Chair
Thesis Reader: _______________________
Dr. Rick Welsh, Falk Endowed Professor
Honors Director: _______________________
Dr. Danielle Smith, Director
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© (Deborah Orieta)
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Abstract
This thesis project examines the food sovereignty movement in Puerto Rico. By employing a
lens that considers colonization, resilience and climate, it seeks to understand the specific ways
in which the food sovereignty movement on the island organizes itself to build a more
sustainable food system in response to the current food crisis. I employ a framework of
Producers and promoters, arguing that each plays an important role in the proliferation of the
movement.
Most of my research is based on field work carried out through the summer of 2019. An
IRB approved set of interview questions was designed to discern how farmers and other food
sovereignty advocated fared after hurricane María in 2017. By combining interview results with
media sources, I arrive at the conclusion that agroecological systems proposed by the food
sovereignty movement are more resilient to extreme weather events, and better able to operate
outside of neoliberal framework, thus bolstering environmental and social resilience.
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Executive Summary
In 2017, two hurricanes, Irma and María, ravaged the island of Puerto Rico. They
disrupted all essential services, destroyed roads, and wiped out 80% of the island’s agriculture.
Already, Puerto Rico was facing a food crisis: over 43% of the population was on food stamps,
and the island depended on foreign imports to meet its food needs. To say these natural disasters
were a catastrophe is an understatement. In their wake, however, a series of news articles
emerged about the agricultural renaissance on the island and spoke specifically about a group of
activists that was using “solidarity brigades” to help farmers around the island rebuild.
This thesis explores this phenomenon. Specifically, it looks at the food sovereignty
movement on the island and attempts to understand how its proponents mobilize themselves to
build a more resilient food system in Puerto Rico. With the hurricane as a departure, the thesis
also interrogates the colonial context that set the island on a course to food import dependence,
the need for alternatives in the face of climate change, and the role of resilience.
Food Sovereignty is the idea that people have a right to determine what food they
produce and how, in keeping with environmental sustainability. In the context of Puerto Rico, I
argue that food sovereignty advocates use this discourse to resist a history of colonization. They
use agroecology, which combines scientific and traditional knowledge to create agricultural
systems that emulate natural ecosystem cycles, to establish farms that are more resilient to
climate change impacts. In doing so, they also honor traditional foodways, patterns relating to
the consumption and production of food. Because agroecology tries to decrease the use of
external inputs, this form of agriculture also reduces system dependence on seeds, fertilizers and
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pesticides that must be imported. Overall, the food sovereignty movement advances a type of
agriculture that is more sustainable and socially conscious.
As part of my research, I carried out field visits over the summer of 2019. I spent a month
in Puerto Rico visiting farmers and other food sovereignty activists, and conducted structured
interviews. I asked questions about their experience with the hurricane, their recovery, their
views on decolonization and food sovereignty, and how they imagined the future of Puerto Rico.
I also helped farmers in their day labor and participated in workshops where I learned about
agroecological practices.
Overall, I found that the work that the food sovereignty movement does on the island can
be thought of through a “promoters and producers” framework. Within this framework,
promoters are educators, activists, grant writers and others who amplify the message of food
sovereignty and agroecology. Producers are farmers who engage in agroecology and subscribe to
food sovereignty ideals, including but not limited to a resistance or critique of neoliberalism as
the be all and end all of development. I found that the techniques that agroecological farmers
employ allowed them to bounce back from the hurricanes faster than their neighbors who
practice conventional agriculture. Additionally, most promoters and producers engage with other
social movements across the island and are involved in projects where they can build networks
of solidarity.
This work is important and timely because the literature on alternative food movements
in Puerto Rico is scarce. There is meager government support for alternative agriculture, which
increases the island’s dependence on outside food. In the face of climate change, this is doubly
threatening, because natural disasters will continue to disrupt the production and distribution of
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food, putting at risk the lives of countless people on the island. As such, attention should be
given to the relevance of decentralized modes of production and community led projects.
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Acknowledgements
This thesis is made possible by community. It is because of the work, love and passion of
communities that I have learned to get my hands dirty, to ask, to organize, and above all, to keep
writing. I would like to thank, first and with eternal gratitude, my thesis advisor Dr. Thomas A.
Perreault, for his unceasing patience, guidance and requests to “take care.” I would also like to
thank my mother, who encourages me daily to give it my best, and who reminded me that from
the disaster, “we became resilient.” Thank you for teaching me that is my legacy. Thank you to
the food studies department, who opened my eyes to the truths we engage in daily, and thank you
to Edwin Rivera, who taught me how to use a machete and feel powerful.
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Dedication
This thesis is dedicated to the memory of Evan Weissman who, through his work and guidance
as a mentor and professor, taught me to interrogate what lay beneath the surface and to follow
through with curiosity and passion. He believed in justice, and in ameliorating the impact of the
paradoxes of our food system through courageous and honest work.
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Table of Contents
Abstract…………………………………………...……………….………….. iv
Executive Summary………………………….……..…………….………….. v
Acknowledgements….……………………….…….…………….…………… viii
Dedication…………………………………………………………………..… ix
Chapter 1: Introduction …………………………………………………. 1
Developing a conceptual framework………………………………… 6
Food Sovereignty and Agroecology…………………..……… 6
Resilience and Climate Change…………………………….... 8
(De)Colonization and Food Sovereignty…………………...... 9
Methodology and Paper Structure…………………………….……. 12
Chapter 2: Histocial Overview…………………………………………..….. 15
Chapter 3: Empirical Section……………………………………..………… 27
Leveraging Old Technologies into the Future……………………… 27
The Birth of a Movement: Organizations that Preceded Boricuá.. 32
Production…………………………………………………………… 36
Water……………………………………………………….… 36
Soil………………………………………………………....…. 40
Plants and Seeds…………………………………………....... 45
Integrated Pest management……………………………...... 49
Other Attempts at sustainability………………………….... 50
Promotion……………………………………………………………. 52
Produccion y Promocion: On-site education……………… 52
Making Agroecology Viable: Material Resources………… 57
Resilience…………………………………………………………….. 64
Resilience and Decolonization……………………….……… 64
Discussion……………………………………………………………. 70
Chapter 4: Conclusion………………………………………………….….. 74
Intersections of Action and Visibility …………………………….. 75
Future Directions…………………………………………………… 81
Works Cited.……………………………………………………..…………. 84
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Chapter 1: Introduction
In September 2017, two back-to-back hurricanes bulldozed through Puerto Rico. Irma,
the first of these, was a warning sign, and when María (the second) hit, the island was thrust into
complete chaos. María resulted in massive flooding, power and water outages, an island-wide
cellular dead zone, and road collapses everywhere. In the aftermath of the hurricane, as people
tried (and often failed) to connect with their loved ones and assess the damage dealt to their
homes and communities, it became evident that basic survival would be a struggle for many.
As is their mandate when catastrophe strikes a US territory, the Federal Emergency
Management Administration (FEMA) stepped in to provide emergency relief. Distributing
resources to where they were most needed proved incredibly difficult because of infrastructural
collapse. Food quickly became scarce. In supermarkets and distribution centers, it was running
low. Food that came from the US was held up at the ports, and rarely made it to the center of the
island. Given that Puerto Rico imported over 85% of its food before the hurricane (Acevedo,
2018) the failure in distribution represented a real blow to food security, which was already
precarious. Before the hurricane, over 43% of the population was on the island’s nutritional
assistance program (NAP, for its Spanish acronym) (Stein, 2019). The farms around the island
that were closer to places in need of food were in dire condition; the hurricane wiped out over
80% of the island’s slim agricultural production (Robles & Ferre-Sadurni, 2017). Carmen Yulin,
the mayor of San Juan, said that during and after the hurricane, Puerto Rico only had enough
food stocks to last a week (Sammon, 2017).
Amid the chaos, there were some silver linings: communities came together to help clean
up and rebuild, and people got to re-meet their neighbors. Farms that did not experience
complete losses became hubs of food distribution, especially if they had crops of root vegetables
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or had the foresight to pull in the harvest before the storm (Ayala, 2017). All over the island,
people who were able to organized themselves in brigades to deliver essential supplies to the
center of the island. There was a sense of camaraderie, both within the island and among
diaspora communities (Serrano Garcia, 2020). Popular media in the US picked up on this,
especially with regards to coverage of the food situation. Suddenly, news outlets were exploding
with yin and yang stories about the loss to agriculture on the one hand and the resilience and
“food revolution” that emerged on the other.
Agroecological approaches were highlighted in these articles, as were solidarity brigades,
farm aid funds, diaspora-based groups, and food sovereignty networks. It seemed that
everywhere the government failed, community organizations were taking matters into their own
hands. Carmen Yulin, once more, comments on the situation, saying, “I hate to say anything
positive about María. But what the hurricane did was force us to look at the realities of life here
and how our dependency on the outside weakens our ability to ensure our people are taken care
of. María made it evident that we need agricultural sovereignty” (Sammon, 2017). Yulin’s
statement is a loaded one, and speaks to a history of colonization, dependency, and the ensuing
structural inequalities and failings that contextualize life in Puerto Rico. Hurricane María did
strike a blow to the island, but like many natural disasters, it also worked to exacerbate already
existing issues that were not being adequately dealt with.
The extent of these issues is beyond the scope of this thesis, but some that have a direct
bearing on the trajectory of agriculture are relevant and inform how responses have been
leveraged on the island. Though historically, agriculture was the primary industry in Puerto Rico
due to an export-based market of sugar, coffee and tobacco, agriculture in Puerto Rico has
experienced a steady decline since the 1940’s. At this point, the government turned to an
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industrialization-based development model and foreign capital to stimulate the economy. Land
dedicated to staple crops went from approximately 340 thousand acres in the 1940’s to just under
40 thousand at its lowest point in the 1970’s (Fig. 1). In terms of GDP, agriculture constituted
around 46% in 1940 (Rivera, 2020), a number which declined sharply thereafter. In 1960,
agriculture represented just under 10% of GDP, and in 2018 agriculture in Puerto Rico accounted
for less than 1% of the island’s GDP (World Bank, 2019). I will explore the circumstances
surrounding the loss of agriculture later in this thesis, but these statistics work to illustrate the
state of agriculture at the time of the hurricanes in 2017. However, says Carlos Flores Ortega,
Puerto Rico’s secretary to the Department of Agriculture, the island had been experiencing 3-5
percent increases in the agricultural sector over the years leading up to the hurricanes (Robles &
Sadurni, 2017). This increase was due to a “renaissance” led by young farmers as a response to
the island’s recession, among other things. Farm incomes had grown by 25 percent, and the
amount of land in cultivation by 50% (Acevedo, 2018).
This “renaissance” (Coto, 2016) had garnered media attention before the hurricane, to
the extent that it was referred to as a “food revolution” (Bayne, 2018). Actors responded to a lack
of local food, and the government’s insufficient attention to parts of the agriculture sector that
were not invested in big money (such as seed companies). They tried to garner visibility for local
food on the island through community supported agriculture, or farm shares, farmers markets,
fairs, and workshops (Ayala, 2017; Bayne, 2018). Their actions were increasingly scrutinized in
articles that spoke about food sovereignty, resilience, agroecology, and solidarity networks.
These terms, and the actors with them, became amplified after the storm, as a means to highlight
hope amidst disaster stories. What the media captured was not all rhetoric, though: the hurricane
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put the networks of solidarity and the agricultural practices in which farmers engaged to the test,
and demonstrated the resilience intrinsic in them.
Throughout this thesis, I will attempt to build a deeper understanding of these processes
as they unfold in the context of Puerto Rico. To do so, however, demands a recognition of the
very contexts they respond to: colonization, dependency, and climate change. As such, I depart
from the premise that Puerto Rico has a “food crisis” characterized by deep food insecurity, and
that addressing the crisis demands a change in paradigm with regards to how food is
conceptualized and dealt with on the island. Ultimately, for food systems to be sustainable in
Puerto Rico, they must be self-sufficient and more resilient to extreme climate events. The food
sovereignty movement provides an alternative to conventional food production and distribution
systems currently in place. It advocates for self-determination of foodways and environmental
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wellbeing. The hurricanes of 2017 provide an interesting context in which to study the strategies,
practices and successes of the food sovereignty movement in Puerto Rico. They test the
resilience of agricultural techniques employed by agroecological farmers who are part of the
movement and provide an indicator of how these might fare in the face of other extreme climatic
events. I argue that the food sovereignty movement in Puerto Rico is capable of establishing a
model of diversified agriculture that is more resilient to climate change, and that it is organized
in a way that actively challenges policies and structures of power that have a foundation in
colonialism.
There is ample literature on the history of food in Puerto Rico, especially as agriculture
once represented the bulk of economic activity on the Island. I will review relevant aspects of
that history more in-depth as context to the current situation. There is pre-hurricane literature on
agriculture in Puerto Rico that does acknowledge the colonial context and attempts to frame and
analyze the food sovereignty movement with regards to it (Guptil, 2008). After the hurricane, a
few articles emerged that surveyed the resilience of agroecological systems to climate change
(McCune, et al. 2019; Holladay, 2019). McCune et al. (2019) provide a comparison between
alternative agricultural practices (like agroecology) and conventional or industrial agriculture,
which can aid in building a case on which to legitimize the food revolution that is taking place.
Throughout this thesis, I build on this existing literature, and attempt to think explicitly about
how food sovereignty, resilience, climate change and (de)colonization can be used as
frameworks to both understand the direction of agriculture in Puerto Rico and bolster it.
Ultimately, I want to know how the Food Sovereignty movement is addressing the threat
of climate change and tackling the food crisis on the island in a post-María context. I hypothesize
that agroecology, as a tool, and Food Sovereignty, as a discourse, can be effective instruments in
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building more resilient food systems in Puerto Rico. In doing this, I hope to go beyond just the
material agroecological practices and consider the actors of the movement and the specific
strategies they use to build effective networks that look at food as a system. I propose that the
specific projects, led by different stakeholders, can be thought of through a “promoters and
producers” framework. In it, the producers are engaging in agricultural practices and the
promoters do work meant to educate people outside the movement, generate resources for
farmers, provide training, and lead policy and advocacy campaigns.
Developing a conceptual framework:
To really understand the significance of the food sovereignty movement in Puerto Rico, it
is necessary to quickly examine some key terms. Food Sovereignty, (de)colonization, resilience,
and climate change form the impetus for this project, and are the different elements at play
throughout this thesis. This section defines these terms and their significance in the context of
Puerto Rico.
Food Sovereignty and Agroecology
Food sovereignty, as both a discourse and a movement, emerged in 1996 through La Via
Campesina, a non-profit, international organization advocating for the rights of peasants, landless
workers, women and indigenous nations (Wittman, et al., 2010). At its most basic, food
sovereignty advocates for “the right of peoples to healthy and culturally appropriate food
produced through ecologically sound and sustainable methods, and their right to define their own
food and agriculture systems” (Nyelani, 2007; Desmarais, 2008 ). Though the term was coined in
1996, it was articulated formally through the Nyéléni Declaration in 2007, where over 500
proponents gathered to articulate its practical implications, and to strategize on how to give food
sovereignty purchase in the international policy arena. From the start, food sovereignty was
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conceived of as a movement that had a political agenda, one based on “consensus building and
democratic choice” (Agarwal, 2014, p. 1). As such, its proponents are not just concerned with
the work that happens on the farm but with the policies and structures through which local
agriculture is protected or challenged.
Food sovereignty proposes an alternative that goes beyond the rhetoric of “food
security,” articulated in the 1996 World Food Forum, which postulates that food security will be
achieved “when all people, at all times, have physical, social and economic access to sufficient,
safe and nutritious food that meets their dietary needs and food preferences for an active and
healthy life” (Disabled World, 2015; FAO, 2001, Glossary). For food sovereignty advocates,
food security rhetoric is “proto-hegemonic” (that is, it works within hegemonic institutions;
Hopma & Woods, 2014) and often fails to address the structural inequalities that cause food
insecurity in the first place (Wittman, et al., 2010). It also fails to address the economic,
environmental and social failings of the conventional food system, which is currently predicated
on a neo-liberal, for-profit model that disregards the livelihoods and knowledge of agricultural
workers and the consequences of resource-intensive farming.
In rejecting food security rhetoric, food sovereignty advocates for modes of feeding the
world that do not depend on the commoditization of food through conventional markets. They
seek the inclusion of women in decision making, the re-valuing of traditional, local knowledge,
and environmental conservation and rehabilitation. Advocates advance the cause of food
sovereignty on different fronts, including policy, education, community empowerment, and
directly tackling some of the problems that food security tries and fails to address. Among some
of the specific material practices that exist under the food sovereignty umbrella, agroecology is
very prominent.
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Agroecology is an agricultural approach that marries traditional, local knowledge with
agricultural science (Gliessman, 2007). However, as opposed to other approaches that have been
used to address food production and climate change (like climate smart agriculture), agroecology
places great emphasis on the ties between production, environmental sustainability, and social
welfare. Agroecology fits well within the framework of food sovereignty because, at its most
authentic, it works to build knowledge and resource networks between farmers and communities.
In doing so, agroecology tries to safeguard the livelihood of rural people and decrease
dependency on external inputs.
Agroecology is preferred by food sovereignty activists because it provides an alternative
to the privatization of genetic and productive resources by big corporations, such as the case of
hybrid seeds and chemical fertilizers (Altieri, 2017; Altieri & Toledo, 2011). It has been heavily
tied to the resilience of small-scale, peasant farming systems through increasing biodiversity and
managing soil health and water (Altieri, 2017).
Resilience and Climate change
Resilience is defined as the ability of a community or individual to bounce back after a
disaster, or for ecosystems to maintain their balance during and after an external shock (Adger,
2000). Talk of resilience is increasingly relevant in discussions about agricultural systems,
especially as the effects of climate change become more significant. Climate change is tied to
more extreme and frequent weather events, shifting climates, water crises, loss of biodiversity,
among others (IPCC, 2019). A changing climate will also shift pest patterns, introducing pests to
areas and crops that have little experience in dealing with them (Altieri, et al., 2015). Current
agricultural systems, especially big monocrops that depend on fertilizer and other inputs for good
yields, will face trouble adapting to these changing conditions. The effects of climate change are
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already being felt by farmers all over the world, and though hurricane María cannot be
individually attributed to climate change, other hurricanes like it will become more frequent in
the future.
Conventional agricultural systems are increasingly regarded as vulnerable (Altieri, et al.,
2015). Because these depend on large monocrops and fertilizer use, they both decrease genetic
diversity and directly contribute to the emission of green-house gases. Genetic diversity is
important both locally and worldwide, because it provides a pool of genetic material that can be
used to breed plants that are better adapted to changing conditions, and thus more resilient to
stress. Conventional agricultural systems are also tied to higher rates of soil erosion and water,
leading to land degradation (Tilman, et al., 2002).
Though different approaches to reduce vulnerability to climate change and increase
resilience exist, agroecology is one with a very long history. It is based on traditional agricultural
practices, which have been fine tuned for centuries to deal with extreme conditions in local
contexts (Altieri, et al, 2015). According to scholars like Miguel Altieri, agroecology is forming
the basis for an ‘agrarian revolution’ and, as a practice, it directly tackles many of the
consequences of climate change. The use of agroecology, however, also increases resilience by
addressing the social dimensions of vulnerability: farmer dependence on external inputs and
volatile markets. From Altieri and Toledo (2011):
“Technological approaches emphasizing diversity, synergy, recycling and integration,
and social processes that value community involvement, point to the fact that human
resource development is the cornerstone of any strategy aimed at increasing options for
rural people and especially resource-poor farmers” (p. 588)
This latter part is essential for the context of Puerto Rico, where a history of colonization
has created conditions that favor the development of these resource intensive crops with low
genetic diversity. To increase resilience in the face of climate change and ensure the survival of
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peasant farmers across the island, the food sovereignty movement must also tackle the island’s
colonial history and ensuing foreign dependency.
(De)Colonization and Food Sovereignty
Puerto Rico’s history has made it a playground for rich investors and corporate interests
(Klein, 2018). Many of the problems that plague the island are born from a history of external
control over the island. There is a vast and rich literature on dependency theory and the effects of
imposed development in Latin America, from which Puerto Rico is not exempt. This history has
defined the course of agricultural development on the island, which will be reviewed later in this
thesis. Although technically Puerto Rico is no longer a colony, the legacy of colonialism is still
felt. The island was granted Commonwealth status in 1953, when it was declared a Freely
Associated Territory (or Estado Libre Asociado, ELA, in Spanish) through Law 600 and allowed
to create its own constitution. However, unlike the title of commonwealth adopted by other US
states like Massachusetts, for Puerto Rico this status means that though they are free to govern
themselves, they are not allowed to vote in US presidential elections or have voting
representatives in either Senate or Congress. Federal policies still affect how Puerto Rico is
managed, how funds are allocated, and the isldand’s capacity to trade with other countries on its
own terms. Social movements, currently, must respond to these social structures if they wish to
build a culture, community, and economy that operates according to their own sovereignty
(Serrano-Garcia, 2020).
Food Sovereignty, as a movement, does precisely this. It responds to diverse forms of
domination and has been explicitly used by different communities as a tool for decolonization.
Sam Grey and Raj Patel, for example, have used food sovereignty as a tool to analyze Indigenous
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resistance in Latin America, and claim that “food sovereignty is the continuation of anti-colonial
struggles in ostensibly post-colonial contexts.” (2014, p.433). Though formal decolonization
projects were pushed by the United Nations after World War II, and many countries and
territories that were formally colonized were granted independence or assimilated by their
colonial powers, the legacy of colonialism remains in the ways in which dominant institutions
and hegemonic governments exert their power over communities all over the world. This is
sometimes reffered to as coloniality (Serrano-Garcia, 2020), the “long standing patterns of power
that result from colonialism” (Maldonado‐Torres, 2007, p.243). Indigenous communities who
have historically resisted colonization continue to articulate their struggle through the discourse
of decolonization as a nod to this history of oppression (Grey & Patel, 2014). Such a discourse is
fitting, too, given how their communities have been disrupted and robbed of their lands.
Often, advocates of food sovereignty articulate their projects in ways that are
oppositional to the values of neoliberalism, wherein profit, yield, and exploitation are the norm
(Wittman, et al., 2010). Istead, proponents demand a rights-based approach that substitutes
exploitation with sustainability and environmental stewardship. In articulating a right to food,
advocates call on the need to extend land tenure to small-scale and peasant farmers, regulations
to big corporations that devalue local food production, and food systems that are geared towards
local production to meet the food needs of he most vulnerable (Wittman, et al., 2010). Again,
decolonization comes into play through the ways in which these claims resist both material and
ideological domination. As Hoover (2017) notes in “You can’t say you’re sovereign if you can’t
feed yourself,” food is and has always been an important part of cultural heritage. As such, when
traditional foodways are usurped either through agricultural domination, or through import
substitution and food aid regimes, these impositions represent a distinct form of domination.
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Reclaiming access to healthy but also culturally appropriate food is key for food sovereignty
advocates (Hoover, 2017).
In Puerto Rico, this context is incredibly relevant. Colonial domination throughout the
Spanish Colonial period completely transformed the indigenous foodways present on the island,
replacing them with export-oriented agriculture that put people’s sustenance at risk. US control
maintained this export-oriented economic model for its early years of domination, and as Puerto
Rico lost its strategic agricultural position on the world stage, agricultural development still
failed to truly account for the preservation of traditional, indigenous foodways. Instead, the
island became a captive market for US food commodities rhetorically spearheaded by the need to
improve the island’s diet (Gonzalez, 2016). As such, the food movements on the island, food
sovereignty in particular, are mindful of trying to re-establish a Puerto Rican agriculture that tries
to reclaim traditional foods like viandas, legumes, starches and tropical fruits and vegetables.
Methodology and thesis structure:
In order to develop my argument, I use a mix of existing literature, publicly available
data, personal interviews, and surveys. The literature provides a basis to understand the history
of agricultural development in Puerto Rico, as well as the scholarly perspectives on the impact
history has had on social processes. Personal interviews and surveys make up the bulk of the
empirical section and allow me to see why and how different actors are currently engaging in this
“food revolution.” Through the interviews, I am able to glean exactly what kind of processes
farmers and educators respond to, and what their motivations and visions are going forward. That
is, the interviews and surveys give me insight into how actors are currently “building nation” on
the island through the food movement.
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I conducted in-person interviews throughout the summer of 2019. To the extent possible,
I tried to coordinate these so I would be able to both visit and help out on the farms or projects.
However, protests against the government broke out in the middle of the interview timeframe, so
I was unable to connect with many of the farmers I wanted to.
In addition to the interviews, observational data also plays a big role in my understanding
of the situation in Puerto Rico. Because I was raised on the island and my family still lives there,
I have a particular perspective and personal stake in how the post-hurricane recovery unfolded.
Over the summer fieldwork, the farm visits themselves also informed a lot of this project: I got to
observe agroecological practices in action, and visit other, non-agroecological projects. To
supplement my understanding of agroecological practices and how farmers understand them on
the island, I also took an agroecology and permaculture workshop at Plenitud, a farm in the town
of Las Marías. The workshop gave me unique insight into how agroecological techniques are
implemented in the context of Puerto Rico, and also allowed me to connect with a lot of other
prospective farmers who shared their motivations and dreams for the future of agriculture on the
island. All of these data points contribute to the development of my empirical argument in the
sections that follow.
That said, the thesis will try to follow a linear timeline. The following chapter will
provide an overview of the agricultural and development history of Puerto Rico. It will touch on
major historical processes and pieces of legislation that still affect trade on the island to this day.
Among these, the Jones Law and “Operation Bootstrap” in the 1950’s are of particular
importance. The chapter leads into the emergence of the food sovereignty movement and the
ways it was adopted in Puerto Rico by Organización Boricuá de Agricultura Agro-ecológica, the
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longest standing “food sovereignty” organization in Puerto Rico, which is also directly affiliated
with La Vía Campesina.
After the historical contextualization, Chapter 3 reviews current aspects of the food
sovereignty movement on the island. This chapter is based on field work carried out in the
summer of 2019. It is divided into three major topics. Production and promotion, the first two,
make up the bulk of this chapter. I argue that this is the framework through which activists
organize and spread awareness of agroecology in Puerto Rico. Production and promotion,
however, feed directly into the third topic, which focuses on resilience. Here I will argue that, not
only does “production and promotion” serve as a framework to organize agroecology and food
sovereignty, but that these go hand in hand in building a local food system that is resilient at its
core.
Finally, the thesis will end with a brief discussion, conclusion, and future directions.
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Chapter II
Providing a context for the present, a historical retelling of food system changes in Puerto
Rico
This chapter engages with the historical shifts in agricultural development in the island of
Puerto Rico. The theoretical framework that underscores this work seeks to understand the
current problems the island is facing in order to really grasp the importance of the solutions
posited by the food sovereignty movement. Understanding the food crisis, however, requires a
general understanding of the history of Puerto Rico, especially with regards to certain policies
and economic projects, and the ways these affected agriculture. The food sovereignty movement,
beyond reclaiming local food landscapes, critically engages the legacy of colonialism that so
many third world countries must contend with. Throughout this chapter, which summarizes key
points from the end of the Spanish colonial period through the late 1900’s, some of these
colonial legacies are made clear. First, I give a broad-stroked review of the food crisis on the
island. Then I explore the ways in which colonial, export-oriented agriculture undermined
subsistence agriculture and local production. I explore specific policies in the US colonial period
that cemented the island’s import dependency and which, ultimately, culminated in the almost-
complete abandonment of agriculture as a productive economic sector.
Of particular note are the ways in which status and power are leveraged by political elites
to the detriment of rural farmers, farmworkers, and communities in general. To this day, the US
government keeps Puerto Rico subordinate, claiming the island as a territory but denying its
residents, who hold US citizenship, the right to vote in presidential elections or a voting
representative in either Congress or the Senate. Currently, the island is over $72 billion in debt,
16
and a Financial Management and Oversight Board, assigned by the Federal government to
oversee the management of the financial crisis, aims to pay back the debts instead of prioritizing
critical infrastructure and deteriorating social services (Klein, 2018). This move, like many
others, is exemplary of the ways in which policy decisions are taken to prioritize the interests of
the US without truly taking into account the needs of Puerto Rico’s population. It is part, but not
the whole explanation, for why hurricanes Irma and María dealt the island such a blow, and why
the “recovery” was so slow and inadequate.
Map of Puerto Rico, for reference.
When I think about Puerto Rico having a “broken food system,” the first thing that comes
to mind is a series of statistics. About 85% of the food consumed in Puerto Rico is imported, per
pre-hurricane numbers. The cost of food on the island is 12% more than on the mainland US due
to shipping costs (Serrano-Ocasio, 2018). More than 43% of the island’s population was on food
stamps before the hurricane (Stein, 2019). Statistics presented in isolation, however, only tell us
so much about a situation. They’re biased according to who is measuring and how, and always,
17
there is information that is left out or unaccounted. Numbers alone do not reflect the lived
experience of people in the island.
The primary nexus for consumption is in supermarkets, which are supplied through
direct imports from the United States at reduced cost to the companies. Most of the food is
processed, because it is easier to ship. Of the fresh food on the island, and especially with regards
to “traditional” food groups like root vegetables or viandas, most comes from neighboring
Caribbean islands, because it is cheaper to produce food offshore than to buy from local
suppliers who do not possess the same economies of scale (Carro-Figueroa, 2002). This list is
just a snippet of the problem, and greatly ignores the environmental consequences of the food
production that happens on the island, but it serves as a starting point from which to deconstruct
the various forces that have shaped the island’s food landscape.
The import dependence, lack of food access (due to distance or home economics), and the
loss of traditional crops, among other problems with the Puerto Rican food system, are a direct
consequence of years of mismanagement, policy decisions, public health interventions and failed
development projects (Gonzalez, 2016). All of these develop in the shadow of a colonial regime
that was based on the exploitation of native peoples and the rupture with traditional means of
subsistence. Like in most of the third world, Puerto Rico’s development has largely been
determined by external forces, in part through the development projects imposed by the Global
North onto the Global South. Forced industrialization and neoliberalization of the island’s
economy had hugely detrimental effects for the majority of the population, but especially rural
families who were forced to emigrate into cities to seek alternative work (Carro-Figueroa, 2002;
Dietz, 1986). Many of these families ended up at the mercy of the state, being supported through
food and housing assistance programs, and/or in coastal slums— the ills of which are well-
18
documented in Puerto Rican literature. Such processes undermine community resilience and
networks of solidarity and sharing, and move everyone towards dependency. In this chapter I
will provide a brief overview of the different processes and major policies that have shaped the
Puerto Rican food landscape, mindful always of the fact that both numbers and narratives are
deliberately chosen to highlight the “achievements” of some to the detriment of others.
When thinking about policy in Puerto Rico, especially from within the government, it is
easy to point fingers first at the colonial forces (i.e. Spain and the United States, but also the
Global-North-led globalization project) that have robbed the citizenry of its agency, and second
at the local government, which has consistently acted in favor of US interests. Laws such as the
Foraker Act (1900), the Jones-Shaforth Act (1917), the Merchant Marine Act (1920), Law 600
(or PL 81-600) and others have greatly limited the island’s autonomy, but neither they nor their
consequences emerged in a vacuum. Puerto Rico’s colonial history set the course for its
agricultural development, which was then influenced by public health practitioners, foreign
policy, development projects and various attempts at remedying the social ills of the population
without addressing the core problems surrounding food acquisition and production.
19
Map showing the primary agricultural production zones in Puerto Rico. Brown represents Coffee, green is sugar,
yellow is tobacco. (Wilson & Geological Survey, 1899)
Puerto Rico’s export-led agricultural model started as soon as it became a colony. The
island was first colonized by the Spanish in the late 1400’s. During the Spanish regime, from the
1500's through the 1800’s, colonizers reorganized agriculture on the island from native or
indigenous subsistence agriculture to exploitative, export-oriented monocultures (Dietz, 1986).
Puerto Rico’s agricultural landscape was organized into sugar, tobacco and coffee. Sugar
dominated the southern coasts, while coffee and tobacco thrived in the central highlands. For the
most part, sugar was produced in haciendas and managed by colonos, landowners who would
rent out parcels to rural families in exchange for labor and stipend, or who would employ
agregados, landless workers who depended on subsistence agriculture (Serrano-Ocasio, 2018).
In the early 1800’s, due to the collapse of the neighboring sugar market in Sant-Domingue, sugar
production in Puerto Rico tripled. A lot of the extra labor was taken up by African slaves, who
mostly produced cane for markets in the US (Torres, 2016). Peak cane production during this
period happened in 1840, with a total of 10,000 tons of processed sugar destined for export
(Aguilu, 2014)
20
Despite massive production, in 1849, the Spanish colonial government adopted a new
labor system to deal with widespread unemployment from a crash in the sugar market (Pico,
2008). Everyone who was of age (between 16 and 60) and able bodied was to work in the sugar
plantations and carry a libreta, a notebook that recorded their work hours (Aguilu, 2014; Pico,
2008). If caught without a libreta or violating the rules of employment, workers could be jailed.
In this context, workers were increasingly separated from their access to land for subsistence
farming, and were forced to satisfy their food needs at their plantation or hacienda’s tienda de
raya (company store), where they would trade vouchers in exchange for mostly imported goods.
In this matter, they engaged in a circular economy wherein their wages were returned to their
employers (Aguilu, 2014).
By the end of the 1870’s, demand for coffee increased internationally, and so there was a
shift in the agricultural industry, with coffee production surpassing sugar. The change resulted in
shifts in the geographic movement of people. Instead of remaining on the coast, many workers
moved or migrated seasonally to the mountainous regions of Adjuntas, Las Marías, Maricao,
Utuado, Lares, and Yauco, where coffee estates were concentrated (Grupo Editorial EPRL,
2014).
Throughout these shifts in economic activity, the island experienced different waves of
civil unrest. Direct Spanish domination decreased, but the exploitation of workers by local
Spanish elites was unfavorable for the bulk of the population. In 1868, fed up with the colonial
condition, independentistas orchestrated an uprising in Lares and tried to demand independence
for the island in what came to be called El Grito de Lares (The Lares Uprising) (Pico, 2008).
This was the first and only significant attempt at decolonization on the island and, though
21
unsuccessful, the desire for autonomy that engendered it continued to make itself felt in
segments of the population into the present.
In 1898, the Spanish-American war resulted in a change of colonial status for the island
(Serrano Ocasio, 2018). Spain lost its control over its Carribean colonies, and Puerto Rico was
invaded by the US. The US presence on the island was not new, however. By 1898, the island
already had a close economic relationship with the new mainland. Most of the sugar exports
from the island were absorbed by the US, as was coffee. Puerto Rico’s economy under Spain was
greatly affected by US tariffs on Puerto Rican imports over the years, and so in a way the local
agriculture was subject to the ebbs and flows of US economic policy and demand for cash crops.
Throughout the initial years of US rule much of the insular economy was shifted back to
sugar, though coffee and tobacco maintained their fair share of cropland. Most of the land was
concentrated back into the hands of hacendados (hacienda owners) who owned both the land and
the means of processing the raw material into market-ready commodities. Most of the workers in
the haciendas were landless laborers, much like the agregados but without the legal requirements
of the libreta system seen under spanish colonial rule. However, because sugarcane is very
seasonal in nature, poverty in the countryside continued to rise. Slowly, the agricultural economy
of the Island would shift, but not before rural farmers became almost destitute and wholly
dependent on the government for their means of survival.
In 1917, the US government passed the Jones-Shafroth Act, formalizing Puerto Rico’s
relationship to the United States. The Jones-Shafroth Act spelled out the terms of US citizenship
for people in Puerto Rico, which effectively allowed young, able bodied men to be drafted into
the First World War as part of US Troops. Importantly for this narrative, however, the Jones Law
22
determined that Puerto Rican bonds would be triple tax exempt, that is, from federal, state and
local taxes, even if the bond holder was not local. The idea behind the exemption was that
foreign capital would more freely flow between municipalities in Puerto Rico and between the
US mainland and the Island, effectively stimulating the economy and allowing for the
establishment of foreign companies in the years to come (Yglesias, 2017).
In the 1920’s, a second Jones Law, this time the Merchant Marine Act of 1920, was
enacted. The Merchant Marine Act determined that all goods carried between US ports had to be
shipped in US-Made vessels (History.com Editors, 2017). The idea behind it was to safeguard
trade from external tampering, as well as to ensure the existence of a US shipbuilding industry.
In practice, however, the Jones law raised the cost of food in Puerto Rico, because Jones-law
compliant ships are more expensive to operate, and because the law, which also sets restrictions
on which ships may traverse coastal waters (Frittelli, 2019), also restricts the flow of foreign
ships into Puerto Rican harbors.
Together, the two Jones-Acts ensured that the terms of economic development in Puerto
Rico were never truly autonomous. The flows of capital and goods were literally mediated by
these US laws. Eventually, these policies would lead to the crippling of the Puerto Rican
economy, but in the meantime, they facilitated the creation of a food system that was totally
dependent on US imports, and which undermined the island’s capacity to be self-sufficient
(Carro-Figueroa, 2002). For all intents and purposes, these and other measures served to extend
the colonial stronghold that Puerto Rico had been subject to during the Spanish colonial period
and throughout the early years of US possession, before the ELA status was adopted and the
island was deemed a “commonwealth” in 1951.
23
In the years that followed the Jones Acts, a series of government interventions attempted
to restructure agriculture on the island under the guise of crop diversification and empowerment
of smallholders (Gonzalez, 2016). Before the projects took off in the 1930’s, agriculture, mostly
sugarcane, represented 43% of the island’s Gross National Product (Gonzales, 2016). Despite the
economic value of the sugar plantations, agricultural activity was insufficient to meet the food
needs of the general population. Rural farmworkers who used to depend on subsistence
agriculture to meet their food needs were especially burdened due to the structure of the
haciendas, and depended on small colmados (corner stores) to acquire food, usually imported
from the US. During the 1930’s, however, the great depression exacerbated the poverty felt in
the mainland and in Puerto Rico. Food shortages led to a preoccupation with nutrition and public
health. In the US, military-related efforts at understanding nutrition and biochemistry gave way
to new approaches in nutrition science which influenced public health policy (Gonzales, 2016).
Nutrition-related policies in the 1930’s, informed by a discourse of scarcity, shaped the food-
scape in Puerto Rico.
Concerns over nutrition and the role of the landless rural workers shaped the political
discourse of the 1940’s. In 1941, public health, economic and political concerns coalesced into a
plan to re-distribute land and break the stronghold that haciendas had on agricultural production.
Farms over 500 cuerdas were broken up and parcelled out among tenants and agregados, with the
aim to diversify agriculture and supply rural workers with enough land to practice subsistence
farming (Carro-Figueroa, 2002). In practice, however, the policy did not do enough to distribute
power among rural families, or to create new markets for diversified crops. What it did was
allow those with the means to stay in rural farms in the coasts to do so, and gave indebted
agregado workers the freedom to migrate to the coastal cities in search of alternative labor.
24
Importantly, it worked as a political boost to the new Partido Popular Democratico, which
would implement a different series of economic reforms in the years to come (Guptil, 2008).
The late 1940’s into the 1950’s saw mass migration to the US (made possible by the
Jones Law) and to new urban centers around the island (Carro-Figueroa, 2002). The exodus of
people away from rural areas increased the need and dependence on imports, and undermined the
development of agriculture, which experienced a sharp decline. In 1944, political changes
allowed the people of Puerto Rico to elect their first Puerto Rican governor. Luiz Muñoz Marín
became the head administrator of the island, and the face of the Popular Democratic Party. In
1947, he launched Operation Bootstraps, an economic plan meant to industrialize and develop
the island by allowing US companies to settle tax-free for ten years. Operation Bootstraps saw
the official end of trying to restructure agriculture on the island, and instead shifted the economy
to one that was totally dependent on importing goods (Guptil, 2008).
The shift towards industrialization did not ameliorate the high rates of poverty, and so
new alternatives were found to supply the population with food. Before the 1950’s most people
obtained their food from small independent importers (Guptil, 2008), but because of the high
cost of shipping, food was not accessible enough to satisfy nutritional needs. This fact, coupled
with incentives for US corporations, gave way to the first supermarkets on the island, owned by a
US businessman in New Jersey (Carro-Figueroa, 2002). Nutrition science also developed a
public health campaign based on “protective foods,” which included milk, meat, eggs, rice,
vegetables and fruits, and ultimately undermined the traditional diets, and by extension
traditional food production on the island (Gonzalez, 2016).
25
Supermarkets were able to provide foodstuffs that satisfied the nutritional advice, and
were also able to absorb surplus food from the US markets at lower prices than the colmados.
Such institutions also enabled the government to roll out food-aid to supplement the purchasing
power of the growing urban population. In 1975, Puerto Rico was incorporated into the US’s
Food Stamps Program (Carro-Figueroa, 2002), which greatly increased consumption of diverse
food items on the market. However, because these were mostly redeemable in supermarkets,
only big producers on the island were able to provide food for the supermarkets because the rest
were unable to comply with the phytosanitary requirements of these new institutions (Carro-
Figueroa and Guptill, 2007).
Small rural farmworkers were sustained by the Food Stamps program, and so in a way it
also became a means of stalling the influx of rural migrants into the urban centers (Carro-
Figueroa, 2002). Though the program undermined local food production, it also gave poor rural
families the means to subsist on their land by supplementing their meager incomes. In 1982, the
Food Stamp Program was replaced with a direct cash transfer, the Nutritional Assistance
Program (or PAN, by its Spanish acronym) with stipulations that 75% of it had to be used on
food (Carro-Figueroa, 2002).
A couple of outliers in the agricultural production of Puerto Rico stand out. Namely,
tobacco producers, however small, were able to subsist beyond most coffee and sugar plantations
because of the nature of tobacco farming, which allowed for the simulations harvesting of
subsistence crops. During the industrialization campaigns, poultry and meat producers also
profited, due to special incentives by the government (Gonzalez, 2016) and educational
campaigns that claimed that local chicken and milk were more salubrious than the imports.
26
Overall, agricultural production in Puerto Rico fluctuated heavily, though it saw sharp
decreases in the last half of the 20th century (Dietz, 1986; Carro-Figueroa, 2002). Just as there
were uprisings for independence during the spanish colonial period, there were some widespread
mobilizations pertaining to labor, especially in the sugar sector. Different responses to
governmental and economic policies were leveraged by both public health bodies and civic
society, and some food movements that make up this response will be explored in the coming
sections. The importance of this overview is to understand the varied forces at play in the
development (or collapse) or Puerto Rican agriculture.
27
Chapter III: Empirical Portion
Leveraging old technologies into the future
Many food studies scholars are concerned with the agrarian question (McCune, et al.
2019), the idea that peasant agriculture persists despite capitalist mandates for high-yield
production and commodification of food crops. The agrarian question interrogates the ways in
which capital and resource accumulation by the dominant class displaces peasants and frees their
labor to be used in other industries. Mainstream agriculture pushed by the Global North through
the Green Revolution values technocratic solutions to the physical constraints of production,
demands that products destined for markets comply with global phyto-sanitary standards, and
ultimately might result in decreased food security (Elser, et al., 2014; Black, 2001). Yet despite
this, peasants, small-scale, traditional, indigenous farmers, among others continue to produce
over 20% of the world’s food (Altieri, 2009). Whether it’s done out of a need to subsist or as a
direct opposition to production practices that are detrimental to the environment and
communities, the persistence of small-scale farmers using traditional techniques is in itself a
resistance to conventional food systems.
The food sovereignty movement in Puerto Rico is a testament to this resistance. Despite
sharp drops in agricultural production and an attempt to industrialize the economy,
agroecological farmers persist all across the island, often in plots of land that are too small or
unproductive to even be considered in the USDA agriculture census.
Since the 1980’s farmers on the island have engaged in their livelihood as a direct
challenge to industrial agriculture. They have built networks, founded organizations, and
attempted to create policy mechanisms that would enable producers to compete on more equal
footing with bigger operations. Currently, the most prominent of these organizations is
28
Organización Boricuá de Agricultura Agro-Ecológica (Boricuá, n.d.). Boricuá acts as a hub of
knowledge and resource-sharing. Occasionally, it steps in to supplement and at times supplant
the government’s inadequate aid to farmers, which are often only allocated based on how well
farmers can write grants for them (Personal Communication, 2019). However, Boricuá is only as
strong as its members, and across the island there are myriad farmers that have crafted projects
with the aim of both sustaining their farms and employees and acting as a living classroom for
people who see food as a means of liberation for the island and wish to actively contribute to its
changing food-scape.
This chapter attempts to highlight the work of some of these actors. I employ a
framework inspired by El Josco Bravo’s agroecological course, Productores y Promotores
Agroecológicos (Producers and Promoters of Agroecology), which adequately captures the ways
in which activists on the island push the movement forward. I argue that this approach, one of
producers and promoters, is useful in elucidating the different strategies that farmers employ, as
well as how they come together with off-farm projects to enable the very persistence of the work
farmers are doing. In short, I argue that without agroecological production there would be
nothing to promote, but without promotion the reproduction of the agroecological movement
outside of farming communities would be more likely to fizzle out.
At the beginning of this chapter, I provide a brief overview of the current food
sovereignty movement and the scholarly understandings of it. Thereafter, most of the chapter
will be based on ethnographic field work carried out throughout a portion of the summer of
2019. The fieldwork is by no means extensive and is meant to 1) provide a starting point to
interrogate how the movement functions and 2) serve as a means of advocacy for the actors
involved. This empirical portion of the paper is divided into three parts: production, promotion
29
and resilience; under the assumption that combining both production and promotion works to
create resilience throughout the farmer networks and communities that host them.
Most of the farmers interviewed use the terms agroecology, permaculture, sustainable
agriculture or just organic farming to describe their work. I posit that the ways they engage in
their work, primarily through or informed by networks such as Boricuá’s, aligns them with the
international food sovereignty movement. Organización Boricuá itself, which most of the
farmers are members of or engage with regularly, is registered under the umbrella of La Vía
Campesina, the movement that popularized the term food sovereignty in 1996. La Vía
Campesina has also been responsible for advancing legal frameworks that safeguard people’s
right to determine their own food systems (Nyeleni, 2007). Their activities go beyond achieving
food security for all the population, and instead propose that food must be culturally appropriate
and environmentally sustainable in order to break with colonial paradigms. Furthermore, the
food sovereignty movement is mindful of the human impact of agriculture, and calls for
farmworkers to be treated with dignity and for farms to be managed in ways that are also
beneficial to their surrounding communities. These sentiments are echoed across all interviewees
and are clearly articulated in the ways that farmers and their neighbors organized themselves in
the aftermath of the hurricanes in 2017. Indeed, a year after the storms, Organización Boricuá
won the international Food Sovereignty Prize for its solidarity brigades, which were instrumental
in rebuilding farms across the island (Gies, 2018) and addressing the needs of communities that
went unmet by the government.
Food sovereignty is key in that it purposefully politicizes food security in ways that other
alternative food projects, such as organics or locavorism, fail to do on their own. By combining
agroecological or permaculture practices, food sovereignty activists literally cultivate resilience
30
into their farming systems, but also use different strategies to involve politicians and the public
in ways that go beyond mere consumerism. As Wald and Hill (2005, p. 207) state, “Food
sovereignty is precisely an ethical–political framework” that helps overcome the constraints of
neoliberal capitalism. These practices are increasingly relevant given concerns over climate
change impacts on agriculture and agriculture’s own contributions to a warming planet. The
latest IPCC Food Security report, released in 2019, links food systems functioning with climate
change, and argues that if not managed adequately, climate change will only exacerbate food
insecurity globally.
The IPCC report highlights various aspects of food system complexity. For one, it makes
clear that climate change will impact not just the production of food but also its distribution and
accessibility. It emphasizes the fact that intersecting identities such as race, age, gender and class
complicate access for people in both rural and urban areas, and power disparities, especially
along gender lines, increase vulnerability to climate change. Furthermore, the report asserts that
“low income producers and consumers are likely to be the most affected because of lack of
resources to invest in adaptation and diversification measures” (IPCC, 2019, p. 15).
These data should ground any attempts at moving forward. Alternatives, mitigation and
adaptation strategies should consider the ways in which structural inequality puts certain people
at a disadvantage. These very people should be included in the conversations and projects to
pursue food security and food sovereignty. The IPCC (2019) report identifies water availability
and quality, soil moisture, soil nutrients, biodiversity, pollination, yields, pests and diseases as
areas of vulnerability that need concrete adaptation plans. However, many proposals at tackling
these problems prioritize technocratic solutions, without including the input or considering the
lived realities of the different stakeholders mentioned above. The solutions are also grounded on
31
the ideal of sustainable intensification, which continues to presume an exploitative relationship
to the land and create dependence on external inputs for farmers.
Miguel Altieri, a scholar of agroecology, posits that agroecology actually has answers to
most, if not all, of these ills. Agroecological practices include but are not limited to integrated
pest management, water flow management, intercropping to increase biodiversity and leverage
plant interactions to increase resilience, pollinator strips, and the recycling of nutrients
throughout the system. Some of these practices will be explored in detail further in this chapter,
to illustrate how agroecological approaches are used by farmers in Puerto Rico as adaptive
responses to climate change. The success of these systems is worth noting. As Altieri states,
“traditional multiple cropping systems provide as much as 20 percent of the world food supply,”
and the total yield from these systems outperforms the yield from single-crop fields of the same
size (Altieri, 2009, Small Farms are more Productive and Resource Conserving). Such claims
allude to the power of agroecology in actually addressing food insecurity but go beyond just a
preoccupation with access and availability of food. Furthermore, Altieri notes that farmers are
explicitly preoccupied with tackling these issues and draw on traditional, intergenerational
knowledge to decrease system vulnerability.
A study that spans 2007-2010, which explores resilience in African Smallholder farming
systems, shows that farmers are concerned with soil and water conservation but also with the
social structures that support farming (Altieri, et al. 2017). These trends are echoed in the
narratives of Puerto Rican farmers, who in the wake of the hurricanes of 2017 showed incredible
solidarity both for fellow farmers and surrounding communities.
Throughout this chapter, I will argue that farmers in Puerto Rico who subscribe to a
discourse of food sovereignty and use agroecological practices are likely to have farms that are
32
more resilient to extreme weather events or adverse climate than conventional farmers. I
showcase the specific practices that farmers in Puerto Rico use to address areas of concern
outlined by the IPCC and other scientific bodies, such as water depletion, soil erosion, increased
pest presence due to shifting climates, and loss of biodiversity. Furthermore, I argue that food
sovereignty activists, whether producers or promoters, contribute to creating a food system that
is delinked from neoliberal forces and as such less vulnerable to the shifts in external markets
and inputs, not to mention better able to feed local communities in times of crisis.
To lead into the discussion on resilience, decolonization and neoliberalism that surrounds
the food sovereignty movement in Puerto Rico, I begin by exploring previous alternative food
movements and how their values and goals determined widespread participation or ultimate
demise.
The Birth of a Movement: Organizations that Preceded Boricuá
The present Puerto Rican food movement did not arise out of thin air. Of course, it
responds to all the contradictions and injustices outlined in chapter two, but it also builds on
concrete attempts by different activists to create institutional power in support of alternative
food. In the 1980’s, for example, the Association of Small Farmers of Rabanal (APARI) led
educational campaigns, infrastructure improvements, and had a series of economic projects
intended to fund the organization. APARI, as such, prioritized community needs by both
addressing the needs of farmers and involving the Rabanal community in their struggle through
education and community improvement campaigns. Once established, APARI appealed to
government officials in an attempt to establish more environmental protections and ensure
farmer access to land held by the land authority. APARI played on two scales, appealing to the
immediate locality but also pushing for wider policy change that would affect farmers all over
33
the island. Their efforts, however, conflicted with corporate interests, and countercampaigns
emerged throughout the island to try and discredit the organization’s work. Still, APARI persists
and is part of a wider network of activists, organizing farmers markets and engaging in
infrastructure projects to aid in the different stages of production and ensure community
members have adequate housing (Guptil, 2008)
Another project that tried to leverage farmworker voices was the Fed, The Federation of
Agricultural Associations. The Fed funded organic certification for specific areas of different
farms in an effort to create an organic juice start up. Their strategy depended on effectively
utilizing unclaimed wild spaces that were free of chemical inputs and could quickly undergo the
organic certification process. However, this attempt failed due to damage from hurricane
Hortense in 1995, structural and economic barriers to growing the company, and the fact that the
company, led by US entrepreneurs, failed to motivate and rally farmers to its cause (Guptil,
2008).
These movements now seem removed from the collective consciousness, and especially
media coverage of alternative food in Puerto Rico. Despite this, I think their existence is
important to acknowledge and be considered through the lense of food sovereignty. The APARI
project, by trying to explicitly advance and look after the needs of communities, had a much
more expansive set of goals than the Fed. As such, it was able to garner enough momentum to
constitute a threat to corporate interests. The Fed, on the other hand, proposed an alternative and
a way to legitimize the efforts of farmers within the system, and didn’t represent much of a threat
to the status quo (Guptil, 2008). It was not as heavily repressed, but because it didn’t really
significantly alter the lived realities of those it tried to target, it failed to set up a project that
farmers could feel genuinely identified with.
34
Given Food Studies’ preoccupation with the cooptation of movements by neoliberal
frameworks — that is, movements that are intended to improve the livelihoods of people but
actually operate through free-market mechanisms— I think this juxtaposition is important. It
allows us to frame the work of the activists that built on the momentum or lessons of these early
projects. In essence, it allows us to clear up the differences between approaches that are
predicated on food sovereignty and those that are not. As Wald and Hill (2015) remind us, food
sovereignty “argues for a different approach to mainstream capitalism” (p. 204) which the Fed’s
project failed to do.
Wald and Hill (2015), as well as other scholars, point to the 2008 food crisis as a crucial
moment for the articulation of alternative food networks that are truly revolutionary and anti-
capitalist. Though they hold that yes, the alternative food movement did exist before, the crisis
laid bare the acute effects of the problematic relationship between agriculture and capitalism. A
sense of collective outrage and despair gave way to a reinvigorated discussion on alternatives.
Agriculture provided, for the press and for people disillusioned by the notion of individual
responsibility, a way forward that was both hopeful and predicated upon creation. Through that
energy, the movement came to be highlighted much more actively in the local and international
press, and a series of new projects was born. In many cases, the orchestrators of the food
movement did not come at it from a background in agriculture, but rather from that sense that
their energies needed to be redirected towards an island-wide effort for lasting change. Farmers
and activists, then, come from academia or other fields, and were introduced to agroecology
through other overlapping social movements or a realization that the way society functions is
unsustainable to planetary health (Personal Communication, 2019).
35
The following sections, Production and Promotion, draw directly from interviews and
field visits carried out throughout the summer of 2019 in Puerto Rico. Though the sample size is
small, the activities embodied by the farmers, educators and activists I talked to seem to be
illuatrative of the wider food movement in many ways. Specifically, when it comes to the
production side, many of the farmers have cross-trained or apprenticed with some other farmers
interviewed or have been affiliated with Organización Boricuá in some measure or other. This
phenomenon is due in large part to the lack of formal agroecological education in Puerto Rico.
The University of Puerto Rico, Mayagüez campus, has the leading agriculture/horticulture
program on the island, and yet graduates of the program (of whom I talked to at least three)
claim that the focus was very much on conventional agriculture, including agrochemicals and
monocropping. Recently, the first ever sustainable agriculture program was started on the island,
in the UPR’s Utuado Campus, but such a program was not available when these farmers were
training. As such, many of the younger farmers chose to do apprenticeships with older members
of Boricuá, like Don Tato (featured below) or later, Plenitud. This common experience means
that agroecological practices and approaches are shared by many participants of the movement,
albeit modified for the specific microclimates or economic realities of each farm.
Interestingly, many of the farmers who make up the food sovereignty movement on the
island are under fifty and college educated. Some of them came into it by accident or through a
realization that food and agriculture were the islands’ cultural heritage and necessary for
survival. They switched tracks and ended up on a farm, without necessarily having a family
history of farming. Others who practice agriculture or aim to do so knew they wanted to pursue it
as a career and trained at the UPR Mayagüez campus from the get go, and are now either renting
land and starting up their farms, or pursuing apprenticeships on permaculture projects or
36
agroecological farms. Some, like Don Tato, sow the land their parents harvested before them.
Others still, like Dalma Cartagena, dedicate their time to teaching kids or their surrounding
community the value of engaging with the soil through school or community gardens. Together,
these and other actors make up a diverse and interdisciplinary food movement and engage in
complementary actions that enable and make space for the rest to make a living in an
oppositional context.
Production
Water
Puerto Rico, even if not ravaged by category four and five hurricanes, is often beset by
heavy rains or periods of drought. Water availability is highly variable, with the south of the
island being much drier than the mountainous region or the northern coast. The fluctuations in
water availability and heat stress during the summer determine the rhythms of agriculture on the
island, and demand that productive, year-round harvesting make use of water management
strategies. This need is exacerbated when climate change is considered. The IPCC also highlights
water as an important agricultural factor that is going to severely constrain agriculture (2019).
Tropical regions are likely to be the most impacted in terms of water availability overall and
through the impact of large-scale climate events like hurricanes, both of which are disruptive to
agriculture.
Given this, farmers have been leveraging water management techniques to ensure water
availability (through the dry season and when municipal water systems fail), the lack of soil
erosion through excessive rains and even soil/plant moisture loss through evapotranspiration due
to higher temperatures. Different strategies to achieve this include water collection, water flow
management in the fields and intercropping/cover crop use.
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Finca Plenitud, the first of the sites visited, has an exemplary water management system.
The farm project is both a site of production and a living classroom where a team of
administrators, farmers, educators and artists train interested participants in the basics of
permaculture and farm management. I took their ten-week course and was able to gain insight
into the different practices that made the farm run smoothly. In terms of water management,
these included “siembra al contorno” to break up the flow of water and prevent erosion, water
collection systems, and the construction and use of an artificial lagoon. The second farm,
Proyecto El Josco Bravo, which also has a teaching component, puts a lot of emphasis on water
management as well. El Josco Bravo’s system depends on an artificial lagoon, and recycled fire
hoses carry water from there to the different fields.
The presence of the lagoon in both of these farms serves multiple purposes. The lagoons
are placed at points of lower elevation on the farm and are able to collect run-off during heavy
rains. They also create microclimates within the farm, and different plants surround both
lagoons, contributing to total biodiversity. In the case of El Josco Bravo, it also serves social
purposes, providing asylum from the sun on especially hot summer days. The lagoon from El
Josco Bravo, much bigger than the one from Plenitud, was made possible through a government
grant given to farmers and other landowners for projects that try to address soil erosion and other
conservation concerns.
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Water collection system in Siembra Tres Vidas. (Orieta, 2019)
Water collection systems are used by all the farms interviewed. This strategy requires big
tanks that are able to hold rainwater, usually also connected to the gutters of physical structures
on the farms. The primary purpose of the tanks is to secure water for both human and plant
consumption. Finca Plenitud depended on their tanks to shower and drink after the hurricane
disrupted the flow of municipal water to the farm. In general, however, if properly set up, the
system can also help reduce water cost for farmers throughout the year.
The siembra al contorno strategy employed by Plenitud, which is also seen in El Josco
Bravo and Finca Tres Vidas, another farm in the central region of the island, is crucial for the
health of the soil and the harvest. Called contour farming in English, this agroecological strategy
acknowledges and works with the natural elevation of the terrain. Instead of levelling entire
39
fields, farmers who practice contour farming create seed banks that follow the natural curvature
of the land. Using a system of mounds and valleys, they are able to direct water in a zigzag
pattern to the bottom of a hill. When it rains, the water moves through the valleys instead of
flooding the mounds where plants are growing. Because fertile soil is mostly placed on top of the
mounds, there is little risk of losing healthy topsoil from the flowing water. Ultimately, the water
ends in a lagoon or other low point in the farm where it can be collected and used for irrigation
or where other sorts of plants can grow (Plenitud Visit, Personal Communication, 2019)
Often contour farming is combined with strategies to halt or slow down the flow of water.
For example, along the roads of Plenitud, channels are created with rock speed bumps
interspersed throughout. By slowing down the water, farmers prevent the accelerated erosion of
the road. Though it requires upkeep and represents additional planning at the beginning of the
season, using this water management system safeguards topsoil during disasters, as it did in with
the passing of María. Paula Pajuil, one of the managers in Plenitud, claims that because they
managed water in such a way, they were able to go out into the fields a couple of days after the
storm and find that most of the healthy soil had remained. Their neighbors, however, struggled to
secure that important resource, and had a harder time getting back to business as usual.
40
Member of Plenitud leading a lesson on water management, which includes contour farming. (Orieta, 2019)
Soil
Apart from water, healthy soil is probably one of the most important resources on a farm.
Healthy soil is related to plant health, yield, pest and disease resistance, and nutrient content in
plants (Thornton, 2018). Conventional agriculture, and even organic agriculture, uses petroleum
based or other industrial fertilizers to ensure their soil has the proper balance of Nitrogen,
Phosphorus and Potassium (NPK). NPK fertilizers, however, have been shown to be problematic
to the overall health of the agro-system, including farmer health (Davis, Hill, et al. 2012; Elser,
et al., 2014). A common outcome of industrial agriculture is the eutrophication of nearby and
distant water ways (the presence of too many nutrients), which results in excessive algae growth
and can suffocate the productivity of other organisms (Elser, et al., 2014; IPCC, 2019). The
manufacturing of these fertilizers in itself is also problematic. Because they’re petroleum
41
derivatives, they release a significant amount of CO2. Furthermore, relying on the use of
commercial fertilizers traps farmers into an input purchasing scheme that can often result in debt
(Kenner, 2008). Basically, because they free the farmer from having to invest energy in the
actual health and life of the soil, they are essential in order to keep producing year after year.
Within agroecology, however, we can find a different story. All of the farmers
interviewed made hefty use of traditional compost and/or vermicompost, as well as compost teas,
to supplement the health of the soil. Because the composts are made from the very scraps left
over from the field or the kitchen, this practice helps close the energy cycle of the farm.
Additionally, because the nutrients in compost are embedded within the soil matrix, they are less
likely to erode at the slightest rainfall. Compost, of course, is created through the decomposition
of organic matter, and as such is host to myriad microorganisms, mostly bacteria and fungi, that
can be helpful to plant growth when applied on the field (Plenitud, 2019). These microorganisms
help make the nutrients more bioavailable to plant roots and take up niches that could otherwise
be occupied by harmful bacteria colonies.
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Compost piles in Huerta Semilla, a community farm in the UPR-Rio Piedras Campus. Members keep detailed logs
of where food scraps came from, when the compost piles were erected, when they were turned, temperature, and
even name (Orieta, 2019).
For farmers, the way compost is made is important. Most farmers had either a two-part or
three-part system, consisting of green material, brown material, and in the case of Plenitud, fire.
The green material is actively decomposing, while the brown material is plant matter that is
already dry. Fire is anything that is high in nitrogen, and its presence ensures that the compost
pile reaches a temperature high enough, around 150 degrees, to kill off undesired bacteria and
seeds (Plenitud, 2019).
Watching my classmates in Plenitud’s permaculture course put together a compost pile
really drove home how everything on the farm worked together. Plants on the periphery of fields,
which seemed totally irrelevant at first, ended up being prime sources of nitrogenous material,
and were promptly harvested for the compost pile. Other plants, like the Mexican Sunflower,
which is a bioaccumulator, were trimmed and placed directly on top of the seeded rows. Huge
43
stalks were left to decompose around hopeful looking pumpkin seedlings. They provided shade
to the soil, which both prevented evapotranspiration and stemmed the growth of weeds.
The compost pile also represented other relationships, between the fields and the kitchen
staff, the community and the participants. In a micro scale, the compost attempts to remedy what
Marx calls the “metabolic rift,” the process wherein consumption and waste cycles are delinked
from nature, resulting in a loss of nutrients to the soil that used to be recycled in traditional
agricultural practices (Whittman, 2009). Dry cow and rabbit manure from a different neighboring
farm were added, in bucketfuls, to the compost. Plenitud got the manure in exchange for helping
their neighbor, but ultimately it ended up being more convenient to direct the waste through to
the farm than to dispose of it in a landfill. For Huerta Semilla, a community farm on the UPR
Río Piedras campus, compost was a similar endeavor. Every Tuesday, community members
would join to raise a compost pile. Participants would pick fallen leaves from around the
university campus, collect buckets of coffee grounds from the university café, and wheel in bins
full of kitchen scraps from nearby houses and restaurants. After all the materials were collected,
they were dumped onto a sidewalk. Large pieces of vegetables were hacked with shovels, and
once everything was compost-size, a flurry of grass, coffee and avocado pits would take to the
air as students and residents alike mixed all the material with their shovels. They moved in
synchrony, like a dance. Often, music played, and one of the old timers explained to younger
participants why they did the process in this way and what the goal was for each pile of compost.
As such, community members engaged not just in a process of production, but also in deep,
experiential learning, and developed community, camaraderie and curiosity throughout.
In addition to regular compost, vermicompost is another of Plenitud’s tools. At the back
end of the farm’s main house, kitchen scraps are added to a raised bed full of worms, and the
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decomposition of the material results in prime substrate for the farm’s bio-intensive “salad
nursery.” When large expanses of field need to be attended to, both the vermicompost and the
compost are diluted into compost-tea, where the aim is to create the equivalent of a probiotic for
plants. By infusing a bucket of water with compost and air for 12-24 hours, the staff at plenitud
ended up with a rich tea full of microorganisms, which they mixed with the irrigation water.
By using these technologies, farmers are able to simultaneously reduce on-site waste and
create their own bio-fertilizers. The on-site production and inexpensive nature of compost
ensures that farmers are not dependent on outside inputs. Furthermore, it limits the
environmental impact of agriculture by preventing eutrophication and diverting organic material
away from landfills.
Plants and Seeds
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Ecological seeds from Puerto Rico sold at the farmers market in San Juan (Orieta, 2019).
It is hard to have a productive vegetable farm without seeds from which the vegetables
grow. As such, good quality seeds are a precious resource to farmers, one that is increasingly
under threat from corporate seed producers. Companies like Syngenta or Bayer have a vested
interest in developing hybrid and GMO seeds. These seeds have become a source of contention,
because they often trap farmers into a debt cycle. Because of the qualities of the seeds, often
centered around herbicide resistance, they require specific fertilizer and herbicide in order to
produce high yields. This means that farmers must continuously buy these external inputs if they
use them. Furthermore, they are also forced to keep buying seeds season after season, because
the seeds from the original crop are less productive than the ones sold to them. GMO seeds are
also unsavory to consumers, who fear adverse health effects down the line. As such, the
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agroecological farmers in Puerto Rico (and around the world) make it a point to either buy
organic and sustainable seeds or save what seeds they can from their harvest.
Don Tato of Bosque Escuela el Guaraguao, regarded by many as the grandfather of the
movement, is a prominent seed saver. Members from Huerta Semilla and Plenitud often get corn
kernels or legumes to plant on their own farms from him. When he showed me around his farm,
we made a bit of an extended stop at a little roofed deck in the middle of his field, where
countless bushels of green beans and pigeon peas hung from the rafters. We talked as he de-
beaned the dry pods, and I remember my amazement at seeing all the different patterns and
colors of pigeon peas. The varieties that Don Tato has have been lovingly bred through
generations and no longer make it onto supermarket shelves. However, everyone that gets a
handful of these treasures is delighted to see them grow, and more delighted yet to get to eat
them- sometimes straight from the plant itself.
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Don Tato standing in front of drying beans (Orieta, 2019).
Many of the farmers who, unlike Don Tato, need to sell their produce through farmers
market or Community Supported Agriculture schemes end up buying seeds from online catalogs.
In this manner they are able to meet their demand. Oftentimes, however, the catalog seeds are
placeholders until they are able to develop their own seed stores, which all of the farmers are
doing in some form or another.
Not all of the seeds that farmers trade are intended for human consumption. One seed in
particular, the canavalia, is in great demand. In Plenitud, it is used both to fix nitrogen in the soil
and to make tea that is employed in their integrated pest management (IPM) strategy. Other non-
edible plants are also helpful. If we recall, the compost required the presence of nitrogenous
material to reach adequate temperatures. As such, the farmers interviewed engaged in trading
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across the farming network to acquire seeds, seedlings, or vine clippings so they could populate
the periphery of their farms with plants to harvest for the pile. They also get patchouli through
government initiatives, in order to keep the soil banks from slipping (a strategy used in Huerta
Semilla, Plenitud, La Jungla and El Josco Bravo). Flowering plants like marigolds are also often
incorporated in the middle of rows of vegetables like tomatoes or cucumber to attract pollinators
and increase positive plant interactions through allelopathy (Plenitud, 2019; Gliessman, 2007).
The ultimate goal in these farms is to increase biodiversity by all means possible. As
such, monocultures are out of the picture. For the most part, farmers are using intercropping
within rows, or sowing one specific crop in alternating rows. The specific things grown vary
according to region, but include legumes, root crops, vegetables, fruits and other starchy crops
like plantains. Some of these, especially starches like yuca (cassava), malanga (taro), yautia and
plantains, or legumes like red beans and pigeon peas, carry on the island's culinary traditions.
Historically, these crops made up the bulk of the diet for subsistence workers and even
indigenous populations on the island. One of the interviewees from Finca Oro Rojo remarked of
her early experience on the farm:
“It was amazing to move up to Orocovis. Coming from Bayamon, I was
used to rice, beans and bistek. Minimal fruits and vegetables, and definitely not
any of the fruits and vegetables I eat now. In Orocovis, the community had
managed to maintain a different relationship with food, and I found myself eating,
for the first time, things like celeriac, guava, quince, sapotilla, mamey sapote,
sweetsop and soursop… (Personal communication, 2019)’
Not all of the farmers focus on these crops, or at least not for the market. But their
presence both in the field in Orocovis and in the local fruit section of select supermarkets speaks
to the permanence of their cultural importance. It is also a testament to the work of farmers
diligently saving seeds that seem to exist outside of what are considered commodity crops on the
local and international market.
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Integrated pest management
One of the big benefits of intentionally cultivating biodiversity on the fields is that it
helps implement more effective pest management strategies and provides a safety net for
farmers. The presence of diversified crops ensures that, if there is a pest outbreak, not all of the
harvest is lost. Crop rotation limits the harm that pests that live in the soil can produce, because it
constantly displaces their source of food. The plants themselves give each other protection, as in
the example of companion planting between tomatoes and basil, a combination employed by
both Huerta Semilla, La Jungla and Plenitud. The tomato plants attract hornworms, which are
huge green caterpillars that feast upon the leaves. The basil distracts the hornworm from fixating
on the tomato, which offers farmers a larger time window to identify the pest and treat the
problem (Personal Communication, 2019). Additionally, the presence of the basil improves the
growth and flavor of the tomatoes, so it’s a win-win all around.
Apart from companion planting and crop rotation, other pest management strategies
include the use of bioferments to confuse (or even poison) pests, sticky color traps, and the
presence of flower strips. Concoctions like Neem based herbicides, which include neem oil, dish
soap, baking soda, and water actually manage to trap and kill insects smaller than ¼ inch
(Plenitud, 2019). Strips of tape covered in molasses in bright yellow and orange attract flying
insects like white flies, which end up glued to the sweet coating. Flower strips are part of a
biological control strategy and are chosen specifically to attract ladybugs and parasitic wasps
(Plenitud, 2019). The ladybugs deal with aphids, while the wasps lay eggs in other insects, and
then their larvae eat them from the inside.
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Monitoring and careful planning are essential to integrated pest management (Plenitud,
2019; Gliessman, 2014). Ian Pagan Roig, from el Josco Bravo, speaks to this eloquently. As he
transitioned his farm to a summer growing schedule, he spoke to the importance of choosing
varieties of plants that are more resilient to the rising heat and scarce rains. If care isn’t taken to
make sure that the crop selection is intrinsically resilient to the climatic conditions, the plants
immunity will decrease, and they will be more susceptible to infestations. As such, there were
entire crops that Ian chose to keep out of his rotation, such as leafy greens and tomatoes, and
which he would re-incorporate at the end of the summer. For the crops he did keep, he added
extra protections, such as micro-tunnels to increase shade and protect them from the sun, or
additional irrigation. These techniques do not necessarily resemble pest management but
contribute to the optimal functioning of the system and as such decrease vulnerability.
Other attempts at sustainability
The techniques highlighted above definitely make up a foundational piece of the
agroecological practices that farmers in Puerto Rico engage in. They are by no means conclusive
and the ways they are carried out vary slightly from farm to farm. Given concerns over system
sustainability and climate change, and aware of the need to shift practices, other growers are also
adopting sustainability measures that resemble the ones above.
In Guanica, for example, a 300 cuerda (1 cuerda = 0.97 acres) farm called Finca
Gonzales is trying to integrate a sustainability mindset into their operation. Finca Gonzales
produces mostly plantains, bananas, onions, tomatoes, squash and papaya, as well as eggs.
Though their product is varied, it is cultivated in monoculture-like patches that require tractor
transport to get from one to the next. In an attempt to be more sustainable, they’ve added a non-
chemical nutrient compound to their irrigation water, akin to the compost teas that are employed
51
in various of the agroecological projects. Through the use of soil tarps, they’ve also reduced
evapotranspiration and interrupted the reproductive cycle of burrowing pests. All in all, they’ve
reduced their use of chemical fertilizer by 60%, and diminished their use of pesticides.
Finca Gonzales is important because it supplies vast quantities of local fresh fruit and
vegetables that help to counteract the need for external imports in the island. However, to say
that the farm is part of a wider food sovereignty or agroecology movement would be a gross
misrepresentation. The farm is able to operate due to large amounts of private and public capital
investment coupled with strategies to reduce cost. In order to harvest and process all their
produce, the farm makes use of a packing house and employs a couple dozen employees. The
farmworkers in Finca Gonzalez toil under the sun for hours on end, many there out of necessity
more than passion. They get paid minimum wage, which in Puerto Rico can constitute less than
$7.25/hour for workers not covered by the Fair Labor Standards Act.
Because their business model is predicated primarily upon the accumulation of wealth,
many initiatives that could help the surrounding community are not implemented. The farm sells
directly to big markets on the island, and in order to supply these with appealing produce, a lot of
ready-to-eat fruit and vegetable goes to waste on-site. Despite this, there is no opportunity for the
surrounding community to come purchase or collect these goods at reduced prices. Even
expanding such an initiative such as a pick-your-own vegetables day into a tours program in an
eco-tourism or agro-tourism fashion could capitalize on the sustainability of the farm.
An agroecological farm, on principle, would look out for the interest of its workers and
community members in an attempt to address the social health component of agroecology. This
is the case in the farms interviewed. Siembra Tres Vidas, for example, is incorporated as a non-
profit corporation where the employees are also co-owners. This structure allows them to have
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democratic decision making on the farm and also enables them to make a living wage at around
$10/hour. Their non-profit status also allows them to gear some of their activities towards
community support, such as the case of their CSA and solidarity brigades, which will be
elaborated on later in this chapter.
Promotion
For food sovereignty to be successful as a movement, more people than just the farmers
have to buy into it. Social movements are characterized by dense, informal networks, and group
identity (Porta and Diani, 2006). In Puerto Rico, the efforts on farms are sustained and made
possible by various actors who either create awareness of the movement, directly participate in it
through off-farm activities, or just show up when they are most needed. Organización Boricuá is
prominent within this group. Though the organization is made up of farmers, members are also
students, educators or just interested folk who answer the call for brigades or workshop
attendance. Other projects however, like Proyecto Semiteca, Cooperativa Orgánica Madre Tierra
and other farmers markets, Escuela Botijas I, Red Conucos or La Agroteca, provide support and
visibility to new or ongoing farmers through different strategies.
These projects make up the promotion side of the producers and promoters framework.
Throughout this section I will highlight some of their strategies and efforts and try to hone in on
the ways in which they both enable and depend on agroecological farmers themselves. This
portion is also based on in-person interviews, and as such is constrained by a limited sample. The
examples provided should be understood as a starting point in exploring approaches for
promotion, and not as a conclusive list of strategies.
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Producción y Promoción: On-site education
The first and most obvious examples of how production feeds into promotion is through
workshops lasting a week to a month, in which participants engage in both production and
promotion. El Josco Bravo is taken as a departure, but Plenitud’s Permaculture Workshop also
fits within this category. These projects are geared towards young and older adults, people who
either wish to start their own farm, collaborate on an existing project, or start honing their skills
for the future.
Ian Pagan Roig’s farm, El Josco Bravo, works as a for-market operation throughout the
whole year. He rents land from the Puerto Rico Land authority in Toa Alta. Ian is formally
trained as a horticulturist, a graduate from the UPR Mayaguez campus’ program. As mentioned
previously, Mayagüez does not offer much in terms of agroecological techniques, and as such,
when Ian graduated, he set out to develop a farm that also worked as a living classroom. His
course Productores y promotores agroecológicos explicitly intends to promote agroecology
within a larger food sovereignty framework. In it, students visit the farm every week for the
equivalent of a spring semester. As a cohort, participants make a plan for what they want to
harvest and when. Then, they learn to prepare the soil, plant seeds, weed, make compost, manage
water, etc. Apart from hands-on work experience, however, they also have a classroom learning
component where they have discussions about food sovereignty and a 50-hour apprenticeship on
a different agroecological farm.
Once they graduate from the course, participants become part of a rich alumni network,
and often go on to start their own farms (as in the case of Colectivo Güakía, finca Oro Rojo,
among others). Due to demand the course itself is growing. It is now offered simultaneously in
over five locations across the island, at no cost to participants. All people have to do in order to
54
receive the training is write an essay demonstrating genuine interest. This way, Ian Pagán
ensures the democratization and accessibility of knowledge that is so essential for food
sovereignty and aligns himself with the belief that such an alternative must operate outside of
traditional neoliberal frameworks.
Plenitud’s project is similar. For ten sessions distributed throughout eight weeks,
participants meet in Las Marías, where the farm is located. They get a lecture on a particular
topic, be it water management, composting and soil health, or effective marketing and planning,
and then get some hands-on practice. The course is designed as an introduction to everything
needed to start a farm, from production to marketing, and gives participants an opportunity to see
if doing so is viable for them. Unlike el Josco Bravo’s project, Plenitud’s is not free. A $100 fee
ensures occasional meals and salaries to the facilitators, a testament to the fact that farmworkers,
owners, and partners are and should be entitled to dignified wages and living conditions.
Plenitud’s project, organized as a non-profit, however, also exercises its role in
promotion beyond the course offered. They are very connected to the community, where they’ve
helped install water management systems and solar panels, and their farm functions as a
community and learning center for schools or groups interested in either agriculture or other
aspects of what they call holistic living. These programs are intentionally carried out for
community integration and service. Throughout the academic year, they have arrangements with
area schools and provide assistance with their huertas or vegetable gardens, carefully engaging
the kids and cultivating in them a healthier relationship with food and the earth.
Escuela Botijas I is also crucial in this sense. Hidden away along the curved roads of
Orocovis, Dalma Cartagena takes the lead of a local school’s agricultural component. Escuela
Botijas I is part of an island-wide network of schools that participate in occupational training
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programs (Departamento de Educación, Puerto Rico). For Botijas, the focus is on agriculture.
When Dalma arrived on school grounds, the small field designated for students to tend was run
with conventional practices: fertilizer, herbicide, and the like were prominent. Now, the school
has more than 20 years of agroecological management. Cartagena teaches kids from grades K-12
about the importance of healthy soil, fertile seeds, changing seasons, and caring for one another.
Often, graduates of the school will visit and tell her about their careers in agriculture. Through
her classes, Cartagena’s students learn more than just farm management, they learn how to have
a different relationship with their island (Personal communication, 2019).
Puerto Rico’s department of education is trying to incentivize schools around the island
to participate in more projects like Cartagena’s. They’ve created an academic component called
“Horas de contacto verde” or green contact hours, which intends for schools to have school-wide
projects through which kids can engage with a different aspect of sustainability (Department of
Ed and DRNA, 2015). Many of the schools, if for nothing else than ease of uniformity, have
integrated this curricular component through the use of on-site huertas. Red Conucos, operated
out of the University of Utuado campus, is testament to this. Started in 2012, the project’s
intended goal is to develop a robust network where educators can connect with each other and
share information on how to develop school gardens and build curriculums around them
(Conucos, 2019; Personal Communication, July 25, 2019). The project was initially funded by
the USDA and maintained through the volunteer efforts of the newly inaugurated Sustainable
Agriculture discipline in the university. Students and faculty worked together to train staff in
both practical garden management and course facilitation, and then visited surrounding schools
to ensure that the projects were running smoothly. Now, as more schools ask to join the network,
Red Conucos is moving online. Facilitators are creating curriculums and recording classes so that
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professors and students can do distance-learning and enjoy the same material without having to
overextend the limited resources of the university (Conucos, 2019).
Both the Horas verdes initiative from the Department of Education and the very fact that
the UPR Utuado Campus has a new associate degree in Sustainable Agriculture speak volumes
to the importance of sustainable agriculture on the island. Though there is much structural
resistance, evidenced by the lack of government aid in agroecological projects and diminishing
number of overall farms, the fact that institutional sectors are mobilizing in support of the
movement gives advocates new avenues of action. Currently, participants are trying their best to
both expand and preserve these programs and are leveraging their claims through calls of food
sovereignty. During the protests for the resignation of the governor in 2019, for example,
demonstrators called for the need for UPR Utuado to stay open if Puerto Rico was to see its
agricultural resurgence. The Utuado campus is key in preserving traditional techniques like bull
plowing and seed sharing, and provides formal education to people in the mountainous region
who would be unable to attend the Mayaguez Campus should they develop an interest in
farming.
Another attempt at expanding the reach of alternative practices is the UPR Río Piedras
extension service or agricultural experimentation center. There, the farm manager, Luis
Reynaldo Santiago, known on the web as Rey, hosts a YouTube channel called CompostaPR
where he shares horticulture techniques. Luis Reynaldo’s piece of the Río Piedras Botanical
garden is a site of experimentation where he tests out beneficial plant relationships and integrated
pest management among creative and artistic cultivation techniques. The farm is open to the
public, and he is happy to distribute both seeds and knowledge to curious visitors. The YouTube
channel, however, represents an important strategy in the dissemination of local agroecological
57
knowledge. Like many authors and other actors who create guides and content that center the
experience and practice of Puerto Rican farmers, he contributes to the de-linking of agricultural
practices from the hegemonic power of US knowledge, which is ill-suited to Puerto Rico’s
unique climates.
Making agroecology viable: material resources
Formal and informal educational initiatives are not the be all end all of promotion,
however. Despite agroecology’s minimal reliance on external inputs, the propagation of the
practice still requires a degree of material viability. Viability, of course, starts with having land
on which to farm, but doesn’t end there. Seeds, tools and access to monetary resources or big
equipment are essential for many beginning or long term-farmers looking to expand.
A study in the journal Forest asserts that Puerto Rico actually has vast expanses of
cultivatable land (Gould, et al., 2017). In fact, 23% of land in Puerto Rico is well suited for
“mechanized and non-mechanized agriculture.” A lot of this land is, however, held in private
hands or under the land authority. As such, one means of movement support is making these
lands available. Colectivo Güakiás experience is exemplary of this. The collective is able to have
their farm thanks to the literal good faith of a nearby convent, who leases them a couple of
cuerdas for $11 (Personal Communication, 2019). In other cases, land is not so easy to come by.
El Josco Bravo, for example, has almost gotten evicted from their land, which they rent from the
land authority, and Siembra Tres Vidas has had to move more than once because of problems
with their landlords. These stories speak to the importance of more comprehensive and forgiving
land policy, especially from institutional bodies like the Land Authority, who could devise
alternatives that look to support budding agricultural projects.
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When land is not readily available or charitably given, farmers are finding loopholes to
traditional land ownership. Many young farmers, especially in metropolitan areas, are either
repurposing land or outright occupying it. Members of Huerta Semilla, for example, carry out
their community garden on occupied land from the university. Throughout the years, they’ve
reclaimed space that was variously a parking lot and basketball court. Now a grassy field, the lot
still has to reckon with a rocky foundation, so the members of Huerta Semilla have built raised
beds and implemented various soil amendment strategies. Their operation also speaks to the
resourcefulness of the movement: for their plant nursery and compost shack, they’ve collected
PVC pipes, old advertising tarps, wooden pellets and lots of cardboard. As such, they are able to
redirect their capital towards the purchasing of quality tools.
Recently, a different project called el Departamento de la Comida has gained visibility,
and through a series of fundraising strategies has managed to put its efforts towards the
bolstering of material resources for farmers. As of 2019, and with the help of volunteers, they’ve
developed an Agroteca (agriculture library) that features quality hand and power tools. Interested
participants can visit the small building and “take out” tools as if it were a library. The agroteca
allows new, and especially urban farmers, to have access to tools that might be out of their price
range and which they might only need a couple times a year for soil preparation. The initiative is
an attempt from El Departamento to make agriculture more accessible to people that don’t
necessarily come from agriculture backgrounds (El Departamento de la Comida, 2019).
Apart from land and tools, seeds are a necessity in any farming project. Local small
businesses are popping up throughout the island that sell seeds well-adjusted to the local
climates, but among these there are also “open source” seed libraries. Semiteca (seed library) is
one of these projects. Headed by María Cristina (also known as Mara), the project seeks to honor
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the seeds of generations past and create a repository of seeds from around the island. Mara
envisions the Semiteca as a potential Horas verdes project. The curricular component of it asks
students to collect seeds from people they know, be it grandparents, neighbors, parents or family
friends. Students are then to bring the seeds back for a kind of show and tell, where they also
index the area where the seed comes from, the variety, and their relationship to it. Schools or
communities that subscribe to the project would have their own seed portfolios, and the seed
portfolios could be shared or accessed by other schools or communities. Basically, the project
aims to reconnect participants with their own seed histories while creating a diverse catalog of
seed varieties (Personal Communication, July 13, 2019). Projects like these, in conjunction with
other initiatives by farmers like Don Tato, who freely shares his seeds with people he considers
trustworthy, ensure that the biological patrimony of each locality is preserved across the island.
Resources that enable farming are important, but so are initiatives that support farmers in
their craft and mission to feed the island. Though food sovereignty is ideologically opposed to
neoliberal structures, the reality is that farmers, too, are entrenched in a capitalist system and
must make use of capital to sustain themselves. Thankfully, there are concerted efforts across the
island to create alternative marketing schemes. Farmer’s markets and community supported
agriculture, or farm shares, are most prominent among these. Cooperativa Madre Tierra, for
example, is a farmer’s market in the San Juan area that partners closely with Organización
Boricuá. They host farmers who sell organic produce, prepared food or other goods, and also
host a series of talks and workshops on best practices. Though Cooperative Madre Tierra seems
to be the leading example, other markets like the Old San Juan market provide consistent outlets
for farmers to sell their goods and interact with consumers. Because of their visibility and
consistency, they provide good locus for promoting the movement.
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Municipalities are catching up to the energy of the masses, too. The San Juan
municipality started hosting various markets across its different towns, such as Mercado
Agrícola de Caimito Haydee Colón (Caimitoagricola, 2016), which expands opportunities for
farmers who can’t make it to the central markets to participate. In places like Rincón, the weekly
markets became so popular that they had to split them off into different food and artisanal market
days (Mercado Agricola de Rincon, 2013). At the time I visited, the market was also playing host
to a protest in solidarity of the big marches that were happening in the capital. Evidently, such
social spaces aren’t just seen as money-making opportunities, but stages where surrounding
communities can come together to express their collective joy or grievances in solidarity with
one another.
CSA schemes are also on the rise. CSAs, or community sponsored/supported agriculture,
are direct marketing schemes that get products from farms delivered straight to consumers. What
is so interesting about the nascent CSA scene in Puerto Rico is the spirit of solidarity within
them. Projects like Al sol de hoy: Cajitas nutritivas actually partner with various farmers who do
not produce enough independently to host their own CSA’s. The administrators of the program
buy directly from different farmers and create boxes of aggregated goods that they then deliver
to customers (Al Sol de Hoy, 2019). Others, like Siembra Tres Vidas or El Departamento de la
Comida (the first CSAs on the island) are looking to expand into a similar system, or at least
provide assistance to surrounding farmers in the distribution of their goods to either markets or
individuals. Siembra Tres Vidas, specifically, is incorporated as a non-profit, which in itself
represents another strategy the movement is using to stay afloat (Personal communication, July
16, 2019). By being a non-for-profit, Siembra Tres Vidas can afford to host educational
workshops and pay their employees a living wage but can also consider ways in which they can
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extend solidarity to their neighbors who might not have the time or expertise to engage in direct
marketing.
Resilience
The strategies employed on and off farm by the food sovereignty movement attend to the
various needs of individuals and collectives and ultimately help build resilience. In the paper
“Peasant balances,” (McCune, et al., 2019) the authors explore the disparities in ability to resume
on-farm operations among coffee farmers who were alternatively conventional farmers or
subscribers of agroecology. From the sample of coffee farmers interviewed, 18 out of the 20
small to medium scale coffee farmers surveyed found it difficult or impossible to get back on
their feet after hurricane María. Alternatively, agroecological farmers were able to leverage their
social networks towards farm reconstruction, and all but one showed almost immediate
recovery.
The conventional farmers in the study faced problems acquiring enough capital and
manual labor to rebuild structures and recover crops. Agroecological farmers, on the other hand,
had significantly reduced rates of soil erosion due to their water management strategies, and
were able to re-sow their crops speedily (McCune, et al. 2019). Additionally, they tapped into the
activity of Solidarity brigades from both Boricuá and Departamento de la Comida. The brigades
brought voluntary manual labor to the fields, and through one or more days of work helped
farmers rebuild structures, plant seeds, or reign in debris from the storm. The brigades
themselves were made up of a mix of farmers, experts in the field, or other interested
participants. Often, these participants are also among the ones who show up for workshops
across the island or participate in other, off-farm forms of food sovereignty promotion.
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This trend also rears its head throughout my own interviews. Don Tato, for example, lost
his home due to the hurricane, but through a day of brigading a group of volunteers was able to
rebuild a chicken coop and construct a small liveable structure for him and his wife. Over a year
later, Don Tato still lives in what is, for all intents and purposes, the tiny house volunteers built,
but is in the process of building a new house where he can stay long term. Daniella Besosa, from
Siembra Tres Vidas, speaks to her own experience with post hurricane recovery. She says “we
lost 97% of our harvest. But when we got back out into the field, we found that it was quite easy
to get back on our feet. There had been no soil erosion, and the contour banks had stayed in
place. I know that that was also the experience of many other farmers that use these practices:
they just had to get back on the field and resow their fields.” (Personal Communication, July 16,
2019)
Besosa also speaks to the lessons from the hurricane. The damage that the storm dealt to
farms but also to the wider structure of food distribution on the island made it clear that the farm
needed a contingency plan for possible future disasters. For Besosa, the plan involved pulling in
all the harvest before the storm hits and finding ways to store and preserve it in anticipation of
food shortages in the aftermath. Because the farm also runs on solar panels and rainwater, they
are able to refrigerate produce and ensure clean water. Though she is hesitant to express
positivity about the storm, Besosa also spoke to the non-material lessons they gained. She
highlights community-level resilience and visibility, claiming that now, she feels she doesn’t
need to push for agroecology as hard. “People lived through the consequences; they know the
importance [of agroecology].” She goes on to say,
“As a community, we learned that no one was going to come and save us. I’m in a group
[of farmers] where for two years we’ve been talking about getting together and it didn’t
happen until the storm hit. We either did it or all of our work would have been lost. So,
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we set up our own brigades, and over a year later they’re still running. Not to mention,
too, the other initiatives in the community. We went in and asked at the community
center if there was anything we could do to help, and that conversation led to the
establishment of a community garden… It all came back to food sovereignty, to the idea
that we had to have resilient and local production if we were going to make it through
another disaster like this.” (Personal Communication, July 16, 2019)
Another testament to the power of agroecology and its ability to increase community-
level resilience is the case of Guakiá. The Guakiá Collective was able to move into its Dorado
field a couple of months before hurricane María struck the island. In the aftermath, they
participated actively in community level activities such as clearing roads of debris and assessing
the needs of families or individuals who might be at higher risk given the scarcity of resources.
At this point, the collective shifted its timeline, previously concerned primarily with getting the
farm up and running and building relationships with community members throughout that
process second. Given the emergency status, they decided to focus instead on creating
community links, and since the hurricane the community in Dorado has built a community
center, weekly movie nights, and established steady flows of resource exchange from the farm to
the community and vice versa (Personal communication, August 1, 2019). The Collective also
started hosting regular gatherings that bring together local musicians, friends, cooks, among
others. Such a space lends itself well to strengthening interpersonal relationships that are key in
building agricultural networks.
Beyond the personal experiences of farmers and individuals on the island, the power of
agroecology is well documented within disaster resilience frameworks. Miguel Altieri,
throughout his scholarship, draws explicit relationships between agroecology, food sovereignty,
and resilience in the face of climate change. He writes about the impacts of Hurricane Mitch,
which hit Central America in 1998, and how farmers who used sustainable practices were better
adapted to deal with the hurricane damage (Altieri, 2009). His review of different studies that
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measured resilience and vulnerability are part of a long body of research that advocated for the
benefits of agroecological management. In post-Mitch Nicaragua, for example, agroecological
farms lost 18% less topsoil than conventional farms and experienced 48% less landslides (Holt-
Gimenez, 2002). As mentioned previously, the IPCC (2019) also advocated for alternative
agricultural practices as an integral part of climate change mitigation and adaptation.
The examples above, especially in the face of Hurricane María, clearly illustrate both
mitigation strategies and adaptation. In many cases, farmers have chosen to engage in
agroecological practices because of the moral imperative to do so, and for its explicit integration
of social justice perspectives. However, the strategies in themselves represent powerful
mitigation strategies that have been shown to withstand the tests of extreme weather. Water
collection, water flow management, cover crops, and soil amendments work together to
ameliorate on-farm impacts (Altieri, et al., 2015). But the ways in which farmers like Besosa
have taken the lessons learned from the hurricane in stride, and implemented corresponding
contingency plans, illustrate the willingness and need for farmers to engage with the realities of a
worst case-scenario and adapt their practices accordingly.
Even beyond the risks of extreme climate, practices cultivating healthy soils and
increasing biodiversity help farms fend off the more insidious effects of climate change.
Intercropping systems, for example, reduce risk of complete yield loss in the case of pests or
diseases, which are anticipated to increase in frequency and impact (IPCC, 2019). Furthermore,
given migrating climate, having crops that are well adapted to local contexts but also resilient to
changes in temperatures (especially when it comes to extremes) is crucial, because as the globe
warms and weather patterns shift latitudinally, pests, diseases and weeds shift with them. The
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presence of well-established polycultures ensures that these pests and weeds have less niches to
occupy, and as such also serve to reduce their impact (Gliessman, 2014).
Resilience and… decolonization?
In Puerto Rico and other places that were victims of colonization, food sovereignty
movements often go hand in hand with rhetoric around decolonization. It is no mystery, and is in
fact well documented within food studies scholarship, that many of the problems with the current
conventional food system find their roots in processes of colonization and capital accumulation.
Even as countries are able to move beyond plantation agriculture and “take charge” of their local
production, their activities are constrained by international trade and neoliberalization (Sam and
Raj, 2015). The structural adjustment policies of the 1980’s promoted a development agenda that
was imposed on the global south by western developed countries. This development, however,
was predicated on the erosion of public services. In the case of agriculture, production was often
corralled by phytosanitary standards that farmers had to meet in order to be competitive in
international commodity markets (Black, 2001). More often than not, countries were forced to
remove trade barriers and tariffs, which allowed for subsidized US food items to flood their
markets (Black, 2001).
Now, food sovereignty must contend with these various forms of neocolonialism, which
is why self-determination of food ways is at the center of how movement participants imagine
their resistance. Within this resistance, decolonization is a common theme of discussion. It
happens across different scales and through both material and discursive practices. The
decolonization itself seems to take shape in the attitudes of participants more so than the specific
practices. For example, a farmer that is using agroecological practices like water harvesting or
composting need not automatically be seen through a lens of decolonization. However, when the
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actions are carried out dialectically, through an understanding that both water harvesting and
composting enable farmers to reclaim the means of production from a corporate system, then
decolonization is present in the extent to which the action represents a challenge to the status
quo. Such actions, however, must be critical and relational. They cannot be decolonial if they
only aim to provide an alternative that does not challenge the status quo of the system. They
cannot be decolonial if they do not consider the health of farmworkers, community members,
and the resounding impacts throughout the food system. They must necessarily be politically
embedded. Otherwise, they fall into the all too common trap of neoliberalization and work
alongside but not against processes of capital accumulation (Wright & Middendorf 2008;
Heynen, 2009; Lyson, 2007).
A lot of the scholarship that ties decolonization to food sovereignty is predicated on the
experience of indigenous knowledge. In North America, indigenous communities like the
Haudenosaunee have explicit values around sustainability and stewardship of the earth. Their
cosmology demands that they think seven years into the future, and that their relationship with
the land is dialectical and not based on domination (Environmental Symposium, 2020). This
cosmology dictates their notion of food sovereignty (which some indigenous activists contest
over the etymology of sovereignty meaning “ultimate domination”) and calls for land to be
delinked from capitalist modes of exploitation (Sam and Raj, 2015; Hoover, 2019).
In Puerto Rico despite the lack of formal indigenous communities, farmers and other
activists are directly confronting their colonial realities through a host of strategies. Some of
these are evident in their direct participation in the political life of the island. In 2017, when the
Financial Management and Oversight Board (La Junta) was set to take over management of the
island’s finances, Organización Boricuá hosted what they called an “Agroecological
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Encampment for Political Formation” (Laedlein, 2017). There, over a series of days, they
discussed how agroecology fit into a model of resistance against the current system. They also
created visual displays to draw attention to the importance of agriculture, through a roadside
garden they called “Garden of Resistance.” The member’s commitment to the political life of the
island is also evident in the fact that many of its participants, crucially the members of Huerta
Semilla, were involved in protests against the Fiscal control board and against the defunding of
the university in 2010/11. For some farmers, these social protests actually drove their desire to
turn to agriculture as an alternative form of subsistence that severed their dependence on
corporate food. This was the case for Josué Lopez of the family farm La Jungla, in Orocovis.
When I asked him why he left his bachelors to pursue farming as a profession he responded,
“this, for me, is creating Nation”. (Personal Communication, December 17, 2018).
Implicit in Josué’s statement is a series of value judgements that he elaborated on upon
later visits. He’s clear that farming, for him, is about more than generating profit. His farm serves
as a means of sustenance for his family and as a sort of occasional experimentation lab in the
process of developing an agricultural body of knowledge that is based on the Puerto Rican
agrarian experience. His mind is looking towards the future. He hopes to develop a collective
with surrounding farmers, even a small shop in Orocovis proper, where the community can
easily access quality goods and where farmers can have a central point in which to organize their
solidarity work (Personal Communication, July 24, 2019).
In talking to him other aspects of colonization become clear. He mentions how many of
his decisions on-farm are driven by the market, and how the market itself is heavily influenced
by outside expectations. For example, he mentions the year-long demand for fresh salad greens,
despite the fact that salad greens are much more susceptible to pests and diseases during the too-
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hot summer months. As such, he hopes to promote more traditional and hearty crops that are
more resilient to the climate, a sentiment that Ian Pagán of El Josco Bravo echoes (Personal
Communication, 2019).
Other farmers, like Daniella Besosa, think of the process of decolonization as a steady
domino effect of sovereignty. Seed sovereignty, she says, can lead to food sovereignty, which
can lead to water sovereignty, energy sovereignty, and other forms of decentralizing existence
and breaking with external dependence (Personal Communication, July 16, 2019).
The food sovereignty movement on the island also explicitly critiques modes of corporate
domination. Organización Boricuá, together with student activists and other concerned citizens,
expressed their solidarity with other social movements with a clear enemy, such as the Nada
Santo Sobre Monsanto (Nothing Saintly about Monsanto) group. Hundreds, if not thousands of
protestors took to the streets to show their discontent at the purchase that seed companies like
Bayer and Syngenta have on the island and implored the government to kick them to the curb.
The protest was able to leverage its discontent at the corporatization of agriculture while also
highlighting potential alternatives, and did so by ending the march at the Cooperative Madre
Tierra market, where consumers were able to support local farmers and engage in discussions
around the future of agriculture (Inter News Service, 2017).
In recognition that public demonstrations are not enough to effect change, activists also
engage in other strategies. Boricuá, again, provides a great example through their development of
an alternative organic certification scheme, which recognizes the lack of accessibility of the
USDA certification for many small-scale farmers on the island. Their certification is created
democratically through conversations with local farmers, and as such represents the interests of
the people who would be impacted (Boricua, n.d.). Another decolonial aspect of this resistance
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mentality is the explicit attempt to include those who are left behind by the way the system
operates. During my fieldwork in 2019, various grant writing workshops were offered
throughout the island with the goal of capacity-building for farmers (Adiestramiento
Introductorio, pictured below). With the way that agricultural funds are handled, farmers can
apply to receive money from the government to purchase machinery, build infrastructure, or
address other on-farm needs. However, allocation of that money depends on the ability of
farmers to write grant applications that are able to compete with those of big businesses or
conventional farmers that already have an in with government officials. By creating workshops
and taking these workshops to the specific villages that host farming communities, activists hope
to democratize access to those government funds. Such efforts are spreading into certain
institutional bodies like the extension services in certain municipalities, which represents a big
win for the movement (Extension Agrícola Yabucoa, 2019).
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Poster from The Extension Service offering workshops on grant proposal writing. (Extension Service,
2019)
Finally, the food sovereignty movement in Puerto Rico is characterized by deep and
extensive ties with other organizations abroad. So much of resistance depends on collective
action, and Puero Ricans are creating a transnational network of allies across the Americas.
Queer Kitchen Brigade out of New York State, for example, was instrumental in fundraising and
organizing food aid packages in the immediate aftermath of the hurricane. In early 2020, a group
of delegates from a newly formed agroecological youth collective in Puerto Rico went to
participate in a weeklong series of workshops hosted by Soulfire farm in New York State
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(Personal Communication, 2019). Soulfire farm workshops are structured around agricultural
capacity building with a focus on social justice and uprooting racism (Soulfire Farms, n.d.). By
participating, delegates from Puerto Rico reinforced their ties and also acquired strategies to keep
pushing the ideological grounds of the movement on the island. A different group of delegates
also travelled to a food sovereignty summit in South America, where they were able to network
directly with representatives and participants of La Vía Campesina and other grassroots
organizations.
Discussion:
The beginning of this chapter presented two alternative food organizations working to
change some aspect of food production in Puerto Rico, with the aim of making it more
sustainable. As was discussed, the aims and ways in which these organizations garnered
community support was instrumental in determining whether they would withstand the test of
time. The Fed, after facing various obstacles which included natural disaster, disappeared, while
APARI remains active to this day because it was better able to work with the community and fill
a gap that was not being met by other organizations. To be sure, there are other collectives and
individuals working to address issues within the food system, from working conditions to
organic agriculture, but not all of these operate within the discourses of food sovereignty that this
paper focuses on.
The sample of people that made up my fieldwork does identify with the discourse of food
sovereignty. They use or support agroecology as a means to establish more sustainable
agriculture on the island. Beyond just being food movement advocates in their own right, the
ways in which these different actors participate in the food system is important because it is
politically embedded. The projects they have devised work to ensure environmental health, but
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also address social and political needs. They have created loci, such as farmers markets,
restaurantes, and other consumer supported ventures, that exist alongside conventional markets,
and obligatorily work through the structures of capitalism. However, they have also devised
networks, workshops, and programs that work to directly support farmers through solidarity
work, without the aim of generating profit. Finally, they have participated in movements and
political projects meant to directly challenge negative agricultural policies and suggest
alternative courses of action. The political participation from food sovereignty advocates also
extends to other areas of social and political contention, such as access to essential services,
education, or calls to audit the island’s debt. These interconnections were evident throughout my
interviews, as some farmers and activists talked about their political involvement through strikes
hand-in-hand with their agricultural work.
The framework that I propose above, of producers and promoters, serves as a bouncing
board to understand how the food sovereignty movement organizes itself on the ground. No
movement would be successful if every participant did the same task; rather, movements must
make use of their participant’s strengths to advance their cause through various avenues (Porta &
Diani, 2006; Ortiz, 2002). By examining some aspects of what is involved on the production side
of the food sovereignty movement, it is clear that farmers are taking environmental relationships
into account and delivering ‘products’ (food) that consumers can feel good about supporting. The
promoters, whether through education or the establishment of markets, ensure that more people
become interested and aware of what is going on with Puerto Rican agriculture. They are often
successful in getting consumers to embrace the power they hold through their ability to show up
to protests, support farmers, and demand that governmental institutions (like in San Juan) meet
their need for fresh, healthy, local food.
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The hurricanes in 2017, most poignantly María, provide the perfect window through
which to conceptualize the dire need for a food movement that values environmental and social
health. The concerns of international institutions like the IPCC about the threat of climate change
to agriculture come to bear almost painfully on the island. And yet, because the farmers who
make up this movement use agroecological practices that value soil health, diversity, and water
management, after the hurricane it became clear that their farms were more resilient and able to
recuperate production. Here, again, the framework of promoters and producers comes to bear,
because despite agroecological farms receiving ‘less’ damage from the hurricane, it was only
through networks of solidarity that they were able to rebuild so speedily.
The hurricane also gave local visibility to the movement, and in the recuperation process
new projects have sprung up that align themselves with the values of the food sovereignty
movement: democratization of knowledge and resources, solidarity, and the right to self
determination. The recuperation from the hurricane is complicated by ongoing crises on the
island, but as these ideas gain momentum it will be interesting to see how (or if) the people of
Puerto Rico mobilize and organize themselves to demand a government that is more accountable
to the people and economies that honor the health of the land and of communities.
In the following (final) chapter, we will see briefly how the food sovereignty movement
fits in and responds to other structural issues, as part of a wider response to the legacy of
colonialism on the island.
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Chapter 4: Conclusion
In this thesis, I set out to understand how the food sovereignty movement is addressing
the food crisis in Puerto Rico in a post-hurricane context. With so many articles speaking of
resilience, of a food revolution or an agricultural renaissance, I wanted to know how these groups
of activists and farmers were able to organize themselves to establish farms that seemed to
withstand destruction and serve as hubs for community. To do so, I employed a lens that
considered the intersections of colonization, agroecology and food sovereignty, resilience, and
climate change.
Colonization is important to the story of agriculture in Puerto Rico because the direct
domination by external powers and the legacy of it determined how agriculture was organized on
the island. It created widespread structural inequality, and a food crisis characterized by import
dependence and a rupture with traditional foodways. The food sovereignty movement responds
to this history. It attempts to reclaim the people’s agency over the food they consume, from the
very selection of crops to how it is produced. Agroecology serves as a tool for production within
the food sovereignty discourse that honors traditional knowledge and ecosystem relationships.
Both in Puerto Rico and abroad, agroecological approaches have been proven to be more
resilient to pests and disturbance than conventional agriculture systems (Altieri, 2009). This
system resilience is crucial for an island like Puerto Rico, which faces increased risk of extreme
climate events such as the hurricanes of 2017. Agroecology helps mitigate and adapt to the
effects of climate change by establishing farming systems that are materially well suited to
bounce back. However, because in Puerto Rico these agroecological practices are being
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leveraged through a food sovereignty framework, they are coupled with dense social networks
that can be mobilized to the aid of farmers and communities across the island.
This framework offers a context through which to study and a motivation to bolster the
activities of the food sovereignty movement on the island. I focused specifically on how the
dense social networks of the food sovereignty movement are organized and proposed a
“producers and promoters” lens to categorize the different activities of the movement in the
island. Within it, producers are those who are actually using agroecology to tend the land and
establish farms for local production. Promoters are educators, activists, lawyers, administrators,
or anyone else who is involved in giving visibility or expanding the reach of agroecology outside
of the farm. Sometimes producers and promoters are one and the same, as is the case for Ian
Pagán of El Josco Bravo and the team at Plenitud, who both produce and lead workshops on their
farms. Overall, the aim of the movement is to create a foodscape that honors traditional food and
farming practices by both producing the food and creating space for this food to compete with
conventional foodways. Doing so, however, also involves interplay with other movements and
struggles on the island, from gender violence to demanding basic services. This was evidenced
through the cross-participation of food sovereignty advocates in other realms of political activity,
especially through the protests that periodically take center stage on the island. The work ahead
for advocates of food sovereignty is long, but headway is being made through a diversity of
avenues.
Intersections of action and visibility
On October 4, 2019, two years after Hurricane María scoured the island of Puerto Rico,
the Extension service, led by Agronomists Luis R. Santiago and Luis G. Sierra, offered a
workshop to 45 public school teachers on garden establishment and maintenance. The workshop
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addressed growing techniques, but also centered around discussions of food security,
environmental stewardship, and the importance of solidarity (Informe Agrícola, 2019). The
program echoes many of the goals of Red Conucos, a virtual network of teachers supporting each
other to establish school gardens. Red Conucos provides online curricula developed by the newly
established Sustainable Agriculture department at the Utuado campus of the UPR (Red Conucos,
2019). However, coming from the extension service, this initiative is a testament to the ways in
which sustainable agriculture has infiltrated, albeit slowly, the realm of governmental
institutions. The themes the workshops were organized around also point to the growing
legitimacy of sustainable agriculture and food sovereignty. Projects like these represent small
wins for the people, who for years have had to contend with a government that has sought self-
interest above the needs of the population.
The Board of Professors Self-Assembled in Solidarity Resistance (PARES), a group of
university professors that came together after the hurricane to hold discussions around disaster
capitalism, said it best in their foreword to Naomi Klein’s book, The Battle For Paradise: “What
concerned us was not only the enormous physical damage caused by the storm, but also the
intensification of neoliberal policies to come.” They continue, “We wanted to denounce the
exploitation of Hurricane María to promote widely rejected neoliberal policies that undermine
our country’s well-being, especially that of our most vulnerable inhabitants. These policies will
limit access to basic rights such as water, electricity, and housing, and will destroy our
environment, health and democracy, as well as our economic stability” (Klein, 2018: Foreword).
Klein’s book is a result of these discussions, a poignant account of just how these
neoliberal policies, culminating in the establishment of the Financial Oversight and Management
Board (the Junta), are putting the interests of US bondholders and greedy politicians before the
77
needs of the Puerto Rican people. Klein expertly (and savagely) calls out the government’s use
of the well-known “shock doctrine.” In Puerto Rico, measures looked like this: following a
fiscal crisis in 2006, attempts at boosting the economy included illegal borrowing through triple
tax exempt bonds, which resulted in over $73 billion in debt, a “state of emergency” in which
thousands were laid off, and, ultimately, the establishment of the Junta in 2016, which imposed
strict austerity measures that affected, among other things, public education (Klein, 2018).
This context is important not just because it names the abuses to the Puerto Rican people,
but because it fueled, in various sectors, widespread outcry across the island: a two month strike
at the university to protest budget and campus cuts and a massive protest on May 1st to audit the
debt (Klein, 2018). When the hurricane hit the island in November, everyone’s condition was
exacerbated. After the shock of the storm started to clear, however, an already angry population
turned to the government, both local and federal, for help. But the help didn’t come. Warehouses
full of supplies remained shut, to be found years later (Martinez & McNamara, 2019), and rural
residents remained cut off from essential services for months (Robles & Bidgood, 2017). The
energy that fueled the protests earlier that year and in fall of 2016 came back, now in a different
form. All across the island, people discovered that the government would not respond to their
needs, so they had to work towards the future together.
This energy gave birth to JuntaGente, a collective of non-profit organizations across
different sectors banding together to have discussions about decolonization and other pertinent
issues. Prominent among the organizations that take part are Boricuá, other collectives trying to
push for agroecology, unions and associations of University Professors, Public Health Educators,
women’s rights activists, and the Partido Pueblo Trabajador (Workers Party). In their manifesto,
JuntaGente calls for action to ensure adequate housing for all, a sustainable food system with less
78
waste, alternative energy programs, an end to violence against women and LGBTQ folks, among
others (JuntaGente, 2018). Though the panels and activity from JuntaGente died down in 2019,
the very articulation of these goals, together, is significant. For people to join, each from
different sectors, to articulate goals for a shared future is powerful, and points to the ways in
which living with dignity on the island of Puerto Rico necessitates accountability and action. The
manifesto from JuntaGente called for agroecology as a guide for a new Puerto Rican agriculture,
and for sustainable housing and energy projects to be developed in ways that consider mitigation
and adaptation to climate change (JuntaGente, 2018).
Of course, Food Sovereignty movements in Latin America and abroad already recognize
the intersections of injustice that give rise to the need for new agricultural and livelihood models.
La Vía Campesina denounces all different forms of colonialism, and continues to articulate
strategies and grassroots projects for campesinos, jibaros (the Puerto Rican equivalent of peasant
workers), and allies to participate in as a challenge to corporate-led development (La Vía
Campesina, n.d.). What is happening in Puerto Rico is another iteration of this, standing in
solidarity with a worldwide network of activists. This network was highlighted in the post-María
context, and as Josué from Finca La Jungla said in our interview, agroecology and food
sovereignty are the tools and discourses that activists and farmers are using to come together in
order to build a nation.
Throughout this project, I set out to understand the motivations and participants of the
food sovereignty and agroecology movement in Puerto Rico. I wanted to understand the different
strategies that were at play in the process of giving visibility to a movement that has been
ongoing on the island for over 30 years. Furthermore, I wanted to explain how these agricultural
processes responded to and resisted a history of colonization, and how, in moving forward, they
79
were presenting models that could breed resilience in the face of climate change, both socially
and ecologically.
What I discovered was that in situating themselves as a political entity, food sovereignty
proponents are connected to and active in spaces where other activists are grappling with
questions about what it looks like to demand an equitable, safe future for the people of Puerto
Rico and the environment. Food, then, occupying its rightful place as an essential necessity,
becomes a powerful tool, especially when it is denied. With Hurricane María, farmers that
practice agroecology were able to prove to their communities that these alternative farming
methods will sustain them even when no one else will. The hurricane created an opening where
the value of the farmers' resources, in this case their knowledge, increased at the same time that
the government’s discursive power decreased and it lost legitimacy in the eyes of many (Ganz,
2012).
Much of the popular media that covered agroecology and food sovereignty within Puerto
Rico in the aftermath of hurricane María focused on certain projects and statistics. Publications
like Vox, the New York Times, CivilEats and The Guardian (Graf, 2019; Halpuch, 2018;
Resnick & Barclay, 2017; Gies, 2018; Holtz-Gimenez, 2018) all featured articles about Puerto
Rico’s agricultural resurgence, about the solidarity brigades that became so emblematic of the
post-María recovery, or about the history of colonialism that had led to the islands current state
of disarray (to put it mildly). Such articles, however, and even the Food Sovereignty prize
presented to Organización Boricuá for their recovery efforts (Holz-Gimenez, 2018; Vía
Campesina, 2018), fail to truly highlight the various layers of involvement that make such a
movement possible.
80
The promotion and production model I’ve presented in my empirical section is an attempt
to address all the different ends of the food sovereignty movement and see how they come
together to address those initial themes I outlined: decolonization, climate change, resilience. By
understanding the work of different organizations or individuals as producers within the
movement, I think we can come closer to an understanding of the ways in which knowledge and
material goods are created and disseminated. Throughout the thesis, I have understood
agroecology as a material tool in the toolbox of food sovereignty, which, as has been established,
is a discourse that encompasses much more than just the presence of food, and gets at questions
about what we owe each other and the land, and how, as a collective, we can reclaim the
resources and modes of learning that suit us best.
The work of the producers is essential because it serves as a testament to the theories of
agroecology, and as a productive alternative in Puerto Rico. The calls from scientific bodies like
the IPCC about the need for agricultural alternatives as the effects of climate change increase is
answered here: this way of producing food yields results, it supports people through crises, and it
cares for the land so that it may sustain us for years to come. The work of promoters, though, is
also crucial. They help develop collective consciousness to rally support for agroecological
farmers, but also to engender a whole new generation of food activists. Promoters that amplify
the value of seeds and traditional foodways, that hold panels about techniques and about how to
access resources, that build networks to enable people to connect across space and time— they
contribute to the necessary work of “decolonizing the mind,” through which the citizens of
Puerto Rico learn to start asking for the future they want as opposed to settling for the present
that is dealt to them.
81
Future Directions
This initial exploration of the food sovereignty movement is part of the work of
promotion. Though media coverage has been effective in shining a light on what is happening on
the island, the scholarship that studies food sovereignty in Puerto Rico is scarce. This work is
complicated by a lack of quantitative data and adequate promotion from the department of
Agriculture, both on the island and in the US mainland (Gonzales, 2019). As such, this thesis
should stand as an invitation for others to celebrate and honor this tradition of resistance by,
among other things, granting it the legitimacy it deserves so that activists can leverage their
arguments with some of the tools institutions have tried to rob them of. The movement lends
itself to more study, though it is heartening to see that in the development of this very thesis,
studies about post-María agriculture in Puerto Rico have started to surface (McCune, et al. 2019;
Diaz & Hunsberger, 2018). Let’s keep them coming.
As for the movement itself, there is much work to do. In talking to farmers and teachers,
some common requests arise. The first is for a centralized facility to do agroecological
composting. Having good soil is a prerequisite for growing healthy food, and agroecological
farmers recognize that, although the ideal is to create it yourself, sustainable suppliers that are
able to bolster waste-reduction cycles on the island are in dire need. Such a facility would enable
consumers throughout the island to reduce the amount of organic waste they produce and would
serve as an essential resource for larger growers.
Accessible knowledge, too, is in high demand. Though hands-on programs have been
started and are popular around the island, little literature exists about doing agroecology in
Puerto Rico. In 2019, Plenitud published its first guide on agroecological biointensive
harvesting, which serves as an invitation for interested people to learn what it takes to start their
82
own gardens or farms. Another notable example is “La Tierra Viva” a collaborative manual by
Manuel Alonso Febles (1993) about agroecology and traditional agriculture in Puerto Rico.
These books do not just serve as knowledge troves on how to care for a farm in the distinct
climate and soils of Puerto Rico, but also do a lot of the heavy lifting of creating knowledge and
awareness of decentralized agroecological projects and resources across the island. We need
more resources like these, so that the agroecology we practice on decolonized land is not one
prescribed by northern climates.
Beyond what the food sovereignty movement can accomplish on its own, Puerto Ricans
need more from their government. The workshop highlighted above, on sustainable growing
techniques for the establishment of school gardens, is a step, but is not a big enough one. There
has to be an institutional push for the revaluing of traditional agricultural knowledge, and an
influx of government funds to struggling farmers so that they can subsist on more than earnings
from bi-monthly farmers markets and food stamps. Agroecological farms need to be highlighted
on the department of agriculture’s website, and new categories have to be created for the
agriculture census to account for small farms using alternative techniques.
Finally, I want to highlight that, as Daniella Besosa said in our interview, this struggle is
really about different sovereignties. It’s about food, and seeds, and energy, and housing, and
about working in collectivity to ensure that these rights are shared by all.
83
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