// Day 1 Email #1// // Version 1 // Bucket: “Save My Sick or Dying Orchid” Email Subject Line for all 4 versions: (fname), Instant Orchid Info ­ (05/13/2016) [[ note: “fname” in most email providers is a variable that puts your subscriber’s first name in the email. ]] Hi Ian :­) Welcome! And thanks for signing up for this newsletter all about Orchids! I want you to know that a real live person – not just an automated mailing robot reads these messages. And I DO love when people send me pictures, comments, and questions about their Orchids. While I always read all such responses, and generally find a way to address them in upgrades to our book and series of free orchid tips ­ I hope you'll understand that I'm NOT able to respond personally to each and every message. Anyway, I want to thank you again for requesting my free series of Orchid Tips ­ you can expect to find an extremely useful and valuable tip or secret in each and every email you receive. The Orchid Tips you'll be getting are all derived from my book "Orchids Made Easy", a comprehensive guide to growing and caring for your orchids. You can learn more about the book at any time by visiting: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html ONE LAST THING before we get started ­ please take a moment to add the following email address to your address book:

"Ryan@OrchidsMadeEasy.com" ...Otherwise you might miss some of the valuable secrets we'll be covering together in the next couple days... OK! Let's get RIGHT TO IT! Here are your **FIRST CRITICAL TIPS** to get you started right away, and we'll kick things off by covering a few things you can do right away if you have a sick (or possibly dying) orchid on your hands right now. ================================ 10 EASY WAYS TO PREVENT ORCHID PESTS & DISEASE ================================ (#1) Always use sterilized tools whenever working with orchids ­ especially when you are cutting roots, leaves, and/or stems. *Intense heat (like the flame from a lighter) or a diluted solution of bleach can be used to sterilize your tools. (#2) Always water your plants early in the day to allow for all water to dry before cooler night­time temperatures. *Use cotton swabs to remove excess water that gets stuck in all the little nooks of your plant. (#3) Never let orchids or their pots sit in water. This will cause root rot. (#4) Never over­crowd your orchids. Make sure that they have adequate air circulation around them.

*A fan can be used to replicate the gentle breeze that orchids enjoy in their natural outdoor environment. (#5) Always repot your orchids in NEW potting matter, and use NEW (or sterilized) pots. (#6) Always quarantine new orchids for at least 3weeks to prevent them from spreading any disease or insects to your older plants. (#7) Orchids are more susceptible to disease when they are under stress and living in the wrong temperature, lighting, and humidity conditions. (#8) Always purchase healthy plants, and make sure that you're choosing a variety that will thrive in your particular growing environment. (#9) Inspect your orchids regularly. Keep a close eye on NEW growth (which is often more succeptible to insects and other critters like mice). And be sure to check BELOW your leaves for any evidence of pests, because this is where most bugs like to hide out. (#10) Keep your growing area clean, and be sure to remove any dead leaves or dry flowers to ensure your plants stay healthy, and free of disease. So, does that all make sense so far? Nothing too difficult, right? Great.

Because those were just a few quick tips to get you off to a good start. (And we haven't started getting to the GOOD stuff yet...) Over the next several weeks I'll be sending yous ome of the valuable tips and secrets you'll find in "Orchids Made Easy" ­ a little at a time... We'll start with some of the critical information worth focusing on right away. ================================ Here's a Sample of What's Coming Up Next ================================ * Common Orchid Problems and what you can do to get your plant back to full health, including what to do about yellow leaves, what it means when your flowers all fall off, what's that sticky substance on your plant's leaves, and much MUCH more! * The Top 10 Reasons Why Orchids Don't Rebloom, and what you can do about it... PLUS tricks you can use to get your orchid to rebloom like clockwork, year after year! * Little­known, Secret Home Remedies ­ including Listerine, Cinnamon, Mayonnaise, Candle Wax, & More! ­ Find out how every­day household items can supercharge your orchid's growth! * PLUS absolutely everything you need to know about orchid care ­ how much to water, how much light, how to save your sick or dying orchid, what to do when your orchid stops blooming, and much MUCH MORE!

Stick around, because in tomorrow's newsletter, I've got something that you won't want to miss. Until then... To healthy, vibrant blooms! ­Ryan "The Orchid Guy" :­) P.S. Of course, you can get all the tips & secrets right now in our book... (including all my "juiciest" primo tips ­ which are NOT covered in this newsletter...) The book is available in either downloadable, ebook format, or as a "real" hard copy book sent to you in the mail. AND, for a limited time, you'll receive 2 FREE BONUSES with your book when you order today. To order or simply learn more, visit: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Thanks again! :­) // Day 1 Email #1// // Version 2 // Bucket: “Getting my Orchid to Bloom Again” Hi Ian :­) Welcome! And thanks for signing up for this newsletter all about Orchids!

I want you to know that a real live person – not just an automated mailing robot reads these messages. And I DO love when people send me pictures, comments, and questions about their Orchids. While I always read all such responses, and generally find a way to address them in upgrades to our book and series of free orchid tips ­ I hope you'll understand that I'm NOT able to respond personally to each and every message. Anyway, I want to thank you again for requesting my free series of Orchid Tips ­ you can expect to find an extremely useful and valuable tip or secret in each and every email you receive. The Orchid Tips you'll be getting are all derived from my book "Orchids Made Easy", a comprehensive guide to growing and caring for your orchids. You can learn more about the book at any time by visiting: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html ONE LAST THING before we get started ­ if you are running any anti­junk mail software, please take a moment to add "Ryan@OrchidsMadeEasy.com" to your allowed list, otherwise you might miss some of these valuable secrets. OK! Let's get RIGHT TO IT! Here are your **FIRST CRITICAL TIPS** to get you started right away. Taken together these tips can quite literally EXTEND YOUR ORCHID'S BLOOMINGPERIOD BY MONTHS over the course of the year, simply by taking a moment to follow these simple steps... ================================

3 SIMPLE WAYS TO GET LONGER­LASTING BLOOMS! ================================ 1.) Beware of Ripening Fruit! As soon as your orchid starts to bloom, move it to a location in your home at least 10 feet away from any ripening fruit. Here's why: When fruit ripens, it releases ethylene gas, and ethylene gas can cause the flowers on your orchid to fade... and many times even collapse! It's essentially the same thing that happens when "one bad apple spoils the whole bunch..." That one bad apple can spoil your orchid too! Also, never spray household air freshener or aerosol cans of any kind near your orchids for the same reason ­ they're FILLED with that very same ethylene gas that you want to desperately avoid! 2.) Bring Your Orchids Inside! Are you keeping your orchids outdoors? Because, once you start seeing flowers, it's time to BRING THEM INSIDE! Here's why: As soon as orchid flowers come in contact with bees or other flying insects, they'll begin to die almost immediately after they're pollinated.

And yes, sometimes this can happen just a few days after flowers appear! Keeping your orchid indoors and AWAY from pollinating insects can extend your plant's blooming period by WEEKS. 3.) Keep Your Orchids Nice And Cool... Crank up your Air Conditioner, and LOWER the temperature a few notches! Did you know... You can also extend the blooming period of your orchids by introducing them to *slightly* cooler temperatures ­ not above 75F (24C) ­ once they begin blooming? It's true! This is a bit cooler than what most orchids prefer when they're not in bloom, and going through a "growth spurt" period. But by lowering the temperature a bit, you're essentially slooowwwing down the aging process of your plant while it's in bloom ­ which means many more mornings where you get to wake up, grab a cup of coffee and admire those gorgeous flowers! But don't go overboard... You don't want to send your orchid into a "deep freeze"... Just a few degrees cooler than your orchid's recommended temperature range is all you need to achieve your desired outcome :­) Does that all make sense so far?

Good. Because those were just a few quick tips to get you off to a good start. And this is just the tip of the iceberg... Over the next several weeks I'll be sending you some of the valuable tips and secrets you'll find in "Orchids Made Easy" ­ a little at a time... We'll start with some of the critical information worth focusing on right away. ======================================= Here's a Sample of What's Coming Up Next... ======================================= * MORE Tips to Strrrretch the blooming period of your orchid even further... * The Top 10 Reasons Why Orchids Don't Rebloom, and what you can do about it... PLUS tricks you can use to get your orchid to rebloom like clockwork, year after year! * Little­known, Secret Home Remedies ­ including Listerine, Cinnamon, Mayonnaise, Candle Wax, & More! ­ Find out how every­day household items can supercharge your orchid's growth! * PLUS absolutely everything you need to know about orchid care ­ how much to water, how much light, how to know when it's time to repot, what to do when your orchid stops blooming, and much MUCH MORE!

Stick around, because in tomorrow's newsletter, I've got something that you won't want to miss. Until then... To healthy, vibrant blooms! ­Ryan "The Orchid Guy" :­) P.S. Of course, you can get all the tips & secrets right now in our book... (including all my "juiciest" primo tips ­ which are NOT covered in this newsletter...) The book is available in either downloadable, ebook format, or as a "real" hard copy book sent to you in the mail. AND, for a limited time, you'll receive 2 FREE BONUSES with your book when you order today. To order or simply learn more, visit: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Thanks again! :­) // Day 1 Email #1// // Version 3 // Bucket: “Potting or Transplanting my orchid” Hi Ian :­)

Welcome! And thanks for signing up for this newsletter all about Orchids! I want you to know that a real live person – not just an automated mailing robot reads these messages. And I DO love when people send me pictures, comments, and questions about their Orchids. While I always read all such responses, and generally find a way to address them in upgrades to our book and series of free orchid tips ­ I hope you'll understand that I'm NOT able to respond personally to each and every message. Anyway, I want to thank you again for requesting my free series of Orchid Tips ­ you can expect to find an extremely useful and valuable tip or secret in each and every email you receive. The Orchid Tips you'll be getting are all derived from my book "Orchids Made Easy", a comprehensive guide to growing and caring for your orchids. You can learn more about the book at any time by visiting: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html ONE LAST THING before we get started ­ please take a moment to add the following email address to your address book: "Ryan@OrchidsMadeEasy.com" ...Otherwise you might miss some of the valuable secrets we'll be covering together in the next couple days... OK! Let's get RIGHT TO IT!

Here are your **FIRST CRITICAL TIPS** to get you started right away, and we'll kick things off by covering a few ORCHID POTTING BASICS: If you're like most people starting out with orchids, the thought of having to choose the right container...the right potting material...and THEN having to repot your orchid (without killing it) can be a *bit* overwhelming. Yes, it's true that orchids DO have special, unique potting requirements that make them unlike most houseplants... BUT it's nothing that you can't master quickly and easily. And over the next few days, I'll walk you through everything you need to know about potting, repotting, & transplanting, so you have nothing to fear :­) So let's just dive right in... The first step repotting your orchid is knowing how to recognize the tell­tale signs it's time to repot, and here they are in no particular order. ================================ 3 SIGNS IT'S TIME TO REPOT YOUR ORCHID: ================================ 1.) The roots are overflowing over the edges of your plant's container 2.) You've noticed that the potting matter no longer drains properly... In other words, the potting matter stays really soggy. 3.) And finally, the orchid itself has grown over the edge of the pot.

Pretty straight­forward, right? Now, once you've determined whether in fact your orchid needs to be repotted, the next step is to understand the best time of year to actually repot your plant. ================================ WHAT TIME OF YEAR IS BEST TO REPOT: ================================ Most orchids should be repotted in the *spring* months once the plant starts to produce new growth(signs include when you start to see new roots or a new shoot begin to creep out.) At the same time, however, you should also DEFINITELY wait until your orchid has finished flowering before repotting. (I live in the southern United States, and typically repot most of my plants in the month of May.) Cattleyas, for example (one of the most commonly grown orchids) are best repotted... 1) Shortly after they've flowered, 2) Once the plant has reached the edge of the pot, and 3) Only after the new roots are *at least* 1 inch long. And when it comes to deciding when to repot your plant, here's something else to consider: While spring is typically the best time of year to repot, never wait TOO long to repot your plant.

Repotting an OVERGROWN orchid is going to be more difficult for you, because when working with a plant that is much too large for its pot, you haveto be EXTRA careful not to break off roots and new growth when you remove the plant from its current pot. So if you have a plant on your hands that's EXTREMELY overgrown (as long as it's not currently in bloom) I usually recommend repotting immediately even if Spring is still a long ways away. So, does that all make sense so far? Nothing too difficult, right? Great. Because those were just a few quick tips to get you off to a good start. (And we haven't started getting to the GOOD stuff yet...) Over the next several weeks I'll be sending you some of the valuable tips and secrets you'll find in "Orchids Made Easy" ­ a little at a time... We'll start with some of the critical information worth focusing on right away. ================================ Here's a Sample of What's Coming Up Next ================================ * How to choose the right pot and potting material for your orchid ­ PLUS exactly how to repot your orchid, explained step­by­step!

* The Top 10 Reasons Why Orchids Don't Rebloom, and what you can do about it... PLUS tricks you can use to get your orchid to rebloom like clockwork, year after year! * Little­known, Secret Home Remedies ­ including Listerine, Cinnamon, Mayonnaise, Candle Wax, & More! ­ Find out how every­day household items can supercharge your orchid's growth! * PLUS absolutely everything you need to know about orchid care ­ how much to water, how much light, how to save your sick or dying orchid, what to do when your orchid stops blooming, and much MUCH MORE! Stick around, because in tomorrow's newsletter, I've got something that you won't want to miss. Until then... To healthy, vibrant blooms! ­Ryan "The Orchid Guy" :­) P.S. Of course, you can get all the tips & secrets right now in our book... (including all my "juiciest" primo tips ­ which are NOT covered in this newsletter...) The book is available in either downloadable, ebook format, or as a "real" hard copy book sent to you in the mail. AND, for a limited time, you'll receive 2 FREE BONUSES with your book when you order today. To order or simply learn more, visit:

http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Thanks again! :­) // Day 1 Email #1// // Version 4 // Bucket: “Learning the Basics of Orchid Care” Hi Ian :­) Welcome! And thanks for signing up for this newsletter all about Orchid Care! I want you to know that a real live person – not just an automated mailing robot reads these messages. And I DO love when people reply with pictures, comments, and questions about their Orchids. So I'd love to hear from YOU! :­) While I always read all such responses, and generally find a way to address them in updates to our book and my orchid tips email newsletter ­ I hope you'll understand that I'm NOT able to respond personally to each and every message, okay? Anyway, I want to thank you again for requesting my free series of Orchid Tips ­ you can expect to find an extremely useful and valuable tip or secret in each and every email you receive from me... The Orchid Tips you'll be getting are all derived from my book "Orchids Made Easy", a comprehensive guide to growing and caring for your orchids.

And you can learn about the book anytime by visiting: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html ONE LAST THING before we get started ­ please take a moment to add the following email address to your address book: "Ryan@OrchidsMadeEasy.com" ...Otherwise you might miss some of the valuable secrets we'll be covering together in the next couple days... OK! Let's get RIGHT TO IT! Here are your **FIRST CRITICAL TIPS** to get you started right away. Taken together these tips can quite literally EXTEND YOUR ORCHID'S BLOOMING PERIOD BY MONTHS over the course of the year, simply by taking a moment to follow these simple steps... ======================================= 3 SIMPLE TIPS FOR LONGER­LASTING BLOOMS: ======================================= 1.) Beware of Ripening Fruit! As soon as your orchid starts to bloom, move it to a location in your home at least 10 feet away from any ripening fruit. Here's why: When fruit ripens, it releases ethylene gas, and ethylene gas can cause the flowers on your orchid to fade... and many times even collapse!

It's essentially the same thing that happens when "one bad apple spoils the whole bunch..." That one bad apple can spoil your orchid too! Also, never spray household air freshener or aerosal cans of any kind near your orchids for the same reason ­ they're FILLED with that very same ethylene gas that you want to desperately avoid! 2.) Bring Your Orchids Inside! Are you keeping your orchids outdoors? Because, once you start seeing flowers, it's time to BRING THEM INSIDE! Here's why: As soon as orchid flowers come in contact with bees or other flying insects, they'll begin to die almost immediately after they're pollinated. And yes, sometimes this can happen just a few days after flowers appear! Keeping your orchid indoors and AWAY from pollinating insects can extend your plant's blooming period by WEEKS. 3.) Keep Your Orchids Nice And Cool... Crank up your Air Conditioner, and LOWER the temperature a few notches! Did you know...

You can also extend the blooming period of your orchids by introducing them to *slightly* cooler temperatures ­ not above 75F (24C) ­ once they begin blooming? It's true! This is a bit cooler than what most orchids prefer when they're not in bloom, and going through a "growth spurt" period. But by lowering the temperature a bit, you're essentially slooowwwing down the aging process of your plant while it's in bloom ­ which means many more mornings where you get to wake up, grab a cup of coffee and admire those gorgeous flowers! But don't go overboard... You don't want to send your orchid into a "deep freeze"... Just a few degrees cooler than your orchid's recommended temperature range is all you need to achieve your desired outcome :­) Does that all make sense so far? Good. Because those were just a few quick tips to get you off to a good start. And this is just the tip of the iceberg... Over the next several weeks I'll be sending you some of the valuable tips and secrets you'll find in "Orchids Made Easy" ­ a little at a time...

We'll start with some of the critical information worth focusing on right away ­ and we'll begin with the most important Basics of Orchid Care. ======================================= Here's a Sample of What's Coming Up Next... ======================================= * First Steps: Bringing Orchids into your Home... * MORE Tips to Strrrretch the blooming period of your orchid even further... * The Top 10 Reasons Why Orchids Don't Rebloom, and what you can do about it... PLUS tricks you can use to get your orchid to rebloom like clockwork, year after year! * Little­known, Secret Home Remedies ­ including Listerine, Cinnamon, Mayonnaise, Candle Wax, & More! ­ Find out how every­day household items can supercharge your orchid's growth! * PLUS absolutely everything you need to know about orchid care ­ how much to water, how much light, how to know when it's time to repot, what to do when your orchid stops blooming, and much MUCH MORE! Stick around, because in tomorrow's newsletter, I've got something that you won't want to miss. Until then... To healthy, vibrant blooms! ­Ryan "The Orchid Guy" :­)

P.S. Of course, you can get all the tips & secrets right now in our book... (including all my "juiciest" primo tips ­ which are NOT covered in this newsletter...) The book is available in either downloadable, ebook format, or as a "real" hard copy book sent to you in the mail. AND, for a limited time, you'll receive 2 FREE BONUSES with your book when you order today. To order or simply learn more, visit: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Thanks again! :­) From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Sat May 14 2016 13:33:11 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ Are You Making These 3 Orchid Mistakes? ­ (05/14/2016) To: Ian Nagy Hi Ian :­) It's Ryan "The Orchid Guy" here again :­) In today's newsletter, we're going to talk about the "3 Most Important Things You Should Do Whenever Bringing a New Orchid Into Your Home" These critical tips can save you months of frustration down the road, simply by following a few key steps... So without any further delay, here they are: ======================================= 1.) ALWAYS QUARANTINE NEW ORCHIDS: =======================================

Always quarantine new orchids for at least 3 weeks when bringing them into your home to prevent them from spreading any pests or diseases to your other plants. Simply keeping them in a separate room, away from your existing collection during their 3­week quarantine period will do the trick. During this time, inspect your plant closely and regularly for signs of pests and disease ­ and don't forget to look under the leaves because this is where unwelcome insects will most often be hanging out. After 3 weeks, if all signs suggest that the plant looks healthy and pest­free, then you can consider it safe to move it with your permanent collection. ======================================= 2.) WHATEVER YOU DO, DON'T MOVE YOUR ORCHID! ======================================= Once you've determined where you're going to place your orchid in your home, orient the plant so that the flower spike is growing in the direction of the best light ­ and then leave it there. And fight ALL urges to move it again! Here's why: It's very important that you don't move the plant's orientation once the flower spike begins to grow. If you do, the spike will try to reorient itself to the best light again, and this is going to result in a twisted, distorted spike. Instead, wait until all the flowers have finished opening before moving your orchid again. The fact that the flowers have all opened will tell you that the spike has finished growing and it's now safe to move or reorient your plant as you would like! ======================================= 3.) STAY AWAY FROM DECORATIVE POTS ======================================= This may come as a shock to you, but you should NEVER place your orchid directly in a decorative pot, and here's why:

Unlike most houseplants, orchid roots and leaves are EXTREMELY sensitive to the paints and glazes used in decorative pots... ...So sensitive in fact, that orchids can very easily experience a toxic reaction to the metal­based glazes found on most decorative pots today! Many retail flower shops these days will sell orchids directly placed in decorative containers because they look more attractive this way when on display. What you may not realize is that this is setting up your orchid for a quick demise! Instead, you should always place your orchid in aplastic or natural clay pot first, and then position that container in a decorative pot for display purposes only. So, if you've recently purchased or received an orchid as a gift, check right now to make sure that your orchid was first potted in a plastic or natural clay pot. How does it look? Is your orchid okay? If not, you should repot the plant as soon as possible ­ and if you're not sure how to do that exactly, don't worry... because we'll be covering repotting in more detail in a later newsletter. Or you can learn how to repot an orchid right now by checking out our book: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html There's an entire chapter devoted to repotting, including a step­by­step photo demonstration of exactly how to repot an orchid! You get to *see* all my little "tricks" first­hand, which is not something that's covered in this newsletter and something that many readers have found extremely helpful. After all, watching someone who has done something many times before is really the best way to take the "guess­work" out of any process, isn't it?

To learn more about the book, including how you can get $40 in free bonus materials for a limited time just by ordering today, simply click on the following link: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Thanks for reading... and many more tips to come! To healthy, vibrant blooms, ­Ryan "The Orchid Guy" :­) P.S. ­ Repotting aspects aside, if you'd like to have a comprehensive orchid reference guide(everything you really need to know about orchids, all in one place), then you will LOVE our Orchids Made Easy book. Would you kindly take a moment to look at the link below? (The book is fully refundable if you have any problems whatsoever ­ and you're backed by our ironclad 6­Month 100% Money­Back Guarantee.) And for those of you who might be a little nervous about ordering something over the internet, please note that we provide simple step­by­step order instructions which assume no computer knowledge.) Anyway ­ here is the link again below: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Thanks again! From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Sat May 14 2016 14:44:02 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ Choosing the Right Pot for Your Orchid ­ (05/14/2016) To: Ian Hi Ian, It's Ryan "The Orchid Guy" here again :­) In the next several newsletters we're going to talk about "How to Choose the Right Pot for your Plant." To start things off, I want to throw out an EXTREMELY important piece of advice when it comes to choosing a potting container for your orchid:

This may come as a *shock* to you, but you should NEVER place your orchid directly in a decorative pot, and here's why: ================================ Why a Decorative Pot = Dead Orchid... ================================ Unlike most houseplants, orchid roots and leaves are EXTREMELY sensitive to the paints and glazes used in decorative pots... ...So sensitive in fact, that orchids can very easily experience a toxic reaction to the metal­based glazes found on most decorative pots today! Many retail flower shops these days will sell orchids directly placed in decorative containers because they look more attractive this way when on display. What you may not realize is that this is setting up your orchid for a quick demise! Instead, you should always place your orchid in aplastic or natural clay pot first, and then position that container in a decorative pot for display purposes only. (we'll talk about some of the important difference between clay and plastic pots in the next few newsletters.) If you've recently purchased or received an orchid as a gift, do yourself a favor, won't you, and check right now to make sure that your orchid was first potted in a plastic or natural clay pot. How does it look? Is your orchid okay? If it isn't, you should repot the plant as soon as possible. (And if you're not sure about the "right" way to repot your orchid ­ and avoid harming your plant, don't worry because we'll touch on the process in a later issue of this newsletter.) Or if you don't want to wait, and want to get this taken care of right away, you can learn exactly how to repot your orchid right now by checking out our book.

There's an entire chapter devoted to repotting ­ including a step­by­step photo demonstration of exactly how to repot an orchid. You get to *see* all my little "tricks" first­hand (which is not something that's shown in this newsletter) ­ and something that many readers have told me was extremely helpful for them. After all, watching someone who has done something many times before is really the best way to take the "guess­work" out of any process, isn't it? To learn more about the book, including how you can get $40 in free bonus materials for a limited time just by ordering today, simply click on the following link: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Thanks for reading... and many more tips to come! To healthy, vibrant blooms, ­Ryan "The Orchid Guy" :­) P.S. ­ Repotting aspects aside, if you'd like to have a comprehensive orchid reference guide (everything you really need to know about orchids, all in one place), then you will LOVE our Orchids Made Easy book. Would you kindly take a moment to look at the link below? (The book is fully refundable if you have any problems whatsoever ­ and you're backed by our ironclad 6­Month 100% Money­Back Guarantee.) And for those of you who might be a little nervous about ordering something over the internet, please note that we provide simple step­by­step order instructions which assume no computer knowledge.) Anyway ­ here is the link again below: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Thanks again! From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Sun May 15 2016 14:46:00 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ Choosing Your Orchid's Pot: Clay or Plastic?

To: Ian Hi Ian, It's Ryan "The Orchid Guy" here again :­) In today's newsletter, we'll be covering a few more repotting tips from our book: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html If you remember from yesterday's newsletter, we talked about how you should never place your orchid directly in a glazed decorative pot, because the chemicals in the glaze can leech into the potting mixture and kill your plant. Yikes! Instead, you should always use a natural clay or plastic pot. But the question remains: ================================ Which Pot is better, Clay or Plastic? ================================ Well, the answer actually depends on what kind of orchid you're growing. You see, water evaporates from clay pots much faster than it does from plastic pots. So this means that plants in clay pots will need to be watered more often than in plastic pots. Simply put, plastic pots are good for orchids that prefer damp conditions, while those that need to dry out between waterings will do better in clay pots. Orchids that enjoy continuously damp conditions include Miltonias, Phalaenopsis, and Paphiopedilums. Orchid varieties that need to be dried out between waterings include Cattleyas and Dendrobiums. So, what type of orchid do you have? One that prefers continuously damp conditions? Or one thatprefers to be dried out in between waterings? (If you're not sure, you might benefit from the "Orchid Cheat Sheets" included free when you order our book. These cheat sheets outline the watering requirements for each of the most popular orchid varieties.

To learn how you can get yourself the entire set of these sheets free, please check out the link at the end of this newsletter.) Whether you decide to use a clay or plastic pot for YOUR orchid, please make sure that the container has adequate drainage with holes on the bottom or on the side. And while we're on the topic, I'll leave you with this bit of advice: Excess water should ALWAYS be able to drain comfortably from your orchid's pot, no matter what type of container you use... NEVER leave your orchid resting in water, because this will almost always lead to root rot ­ and if root rot DOES set in, it can be a real challenge to save your plant! In the next few newsletters, I've got some important tips you won't want to miss when it comes to choosing the right *potting material* for your orchid. (I think you might be in for a few surprises...) So, until next time, Ryan "The Orchid Guy" // P.S. HERE'S ANOTHER TIP: If you decide to use a plastic pot, I *highly recommend* that you use a CLEAR container. A clear pot will allow you to easily monitor the health of your plant's roots (and avoid that root rot I was just talking about) and keep track of when your plant needs more water. // P.P.S. OKAY, ONE MORE TIP: Here's *my little secret* of where you can find SUPER CHEAP clear pots: Check out the prepared foods section in the deli of your local super­market. Do you know those clear plastic containers that your supermarket uses to package fresh potato salad, olives, etc?

Well would you believe me if I told you that in all my years growing orchids, these little containers work better (and are much cheaper ­ and sometimes even free) than anything you can buy at your local garden store? Just be sure to poke out a few hole to allow for adequate water drainage, and then you're all set to go! // P.P.P.S. If enjoy these sort of tips, then I think you'll REALLY enjoy our book. My wife Laura recently did a count, and according to our "official records" in addition to covering everything you need to know about growing orchids, we also managed to squeeze in 237 Tips, Tricks, & Orchid home remedies just like these in its pages! And while we try to offer as much help as possible in our free newsletter, the book is well worth it, because the newsletter only scratches the surface of what we cover...AND we save the "juiciest" secrets for the book only :­) To order your copy of the book (and get $40 in free bonus materials when you order today ­ including the entire set of Orchid Cheat Sheets),please click on the link below: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Thanks for taking the time to check out the book,and more tips to come! :­) From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Tue May 17 2016 13:28:17 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ Is Something Eating Your Orchid? ­ (05/17/2016) To: Ian Nagy Hi Ian, It's Ryan "the orchid guy" here :­) And in today's newsletter, we're going to answer that all­too­familiar cry for help: "Something is eating my orchid! What do I do???"

So if you've ever been in this position... relax, because help is on the way :­) Now if you've discovered that something is eating your orchid, there's good news and bad news... The BAD news is, unfortunately your infestation could be any number of things (I'll show you how to identify several of the most common critters in a few moments...) But the GOOD news is, for each pest we've got an effective remedy that'll get them off your plant, and out of your life, FOR GOOD! Now obviously, there are far too many orchid pests to cover in this newsletter, so we're going to focus on identifying & treating 3 of the most common critters. Of course, you can learn how to protect yourself from ALL the most common orchid pests right now, by checking out the "Pests & Disease" section of our book: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html If you've already ordered your copy, open up to the "Pest & Disease" section. As you can see, each pest is covered in full detail, complete with photos (which most people find very helpful)and multiple ways to get rid of them. If you haven't yet ordered, and would like to get your hands on a copy today, visit: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html In the meantime let's talk about 3 of the most common orchid pests, which you'll probably run into at some point. ================================ PEST #1: APHIDS ================================ SYMPTOMS: Aphids come in all colors ­ green, red, black, yellow, etc. And they're usually found feeding in clusters on NEW shoots, leaves, and flower buds. You've got to be careful with aphids, because they can do extensive damage by deforming flower buds.

// SOLUTION: When it comes to removing them, you should first try washing them off with warm water. If that doesn't work, use an insecticidal soap or try a product called "Orange Guard." WARNING: Do NOT use chemical insecticides to remove aphids on flower buds... insecticides should be your LAST resort, because the chemicals will actually cause MORE damage to your buds than the aphids themselves. ================================ PEST #2: MEALY BUGS ================================ SYMPTOMS: Mealy bugs are easily spotted, because they will leave white cotton­like bundles on your buds, flower stems, growing tips, and sometimes even on the roots. You've got to be careful with mealy bugs because a female can lay between 100­200 eggs, which will only take about 2 weeks to hatch... and then you've got a REAL problem. So be sure to regularly inspect your plant for these symptoms, and treat your orchid before the problem gets out of hand. // SOLUTION: Fortunately, mealy bugs CAN be removed through persistent treatment. And one of the best (and perfectly safe) solutions is isopropyl alcohol. Simply apply a liberal amount of isopropyl alcohol to the affected areas (only) using a cotton swab. You should apply a daily treatment until you see the mealy bug evidence disappear completely. ================================ PEST #3: SPIDER MITES ================================ SYMPTOMS:

Spider mites are tiny, hard­to­see green or red spiders. You can determine their presence by rubbing a white cloth over the damaged area. A brown residue will be left on the leaf and cloth if mites (or mite eggs) are present. Spider mites often appear in dry and hot conditions, and they feed off the sap in your orchid's leaves ­ which will eventually result in a "stippling" effect on the leaves. // SOLUTION: You should first try washing off with warm water, but if they persist ­ try using a "horticulural oil" or in extreme cases, you can use the commercial product "Orthene". // And I'll leave you with one final piece of advice for today when it comes to orchid pests: No matter what kind of pest you might have on your hands, at the first sign of infection, you should immediately separate your infected orchid from the rest of your plants. Pests will spread to other plants (and usually not just orchids) the first chance they get. Once you've isolated your infected plant, THEN you can begin determining the best course of action. Until next time... To Healthy, Vibrant Blooms! ­ Ryan "The Orchid Guy" P.S. These are just 3 of the more common orchid pests you may have run into. There are MANY others. If you're like most people, and want to discover how to identify and get rid of ALL the most common pests & diseases... then I think you'll really benefit from our book. To order now, simply click on the link below: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Your orchids will thank you in more ways than one... And you'll find yourself becoming THE "go to" orchid expert among your friends and family, faster than you ever dreamed possible! :­)

From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Tue May 17 2016 13:30:48 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ Orchids & Temperature ­ (05/17/2016) To: Ian Nagy Hi Ian :­) It's Ryan "The Orchid Guy" here :­) In yesterday's newsletter, we touched on the important question: "How much LIGHT does your orchid need?" ...And I squeezed in a few of the critical tips on light from our book: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html In today's newsletter, we're going to tackle another basic orchid question you might be having, which is: >> "What TEMPERATURE should you be keeping your orchid in?" But before we go any further, let me throw out a little warning: You'll want to read today's newsletter VERY carefully because there's a tricky thing about orchids & temperature that might catch you by surprise if you're not careful. See if you can find it :­) Okay, now that that's out of the way, let's dive right in... // ================================ WHY TEMPERATURE IS SO IMPORTANT... ================================ Proper temperature is EXTREMELY important for orchids, and here's why: Orchids will ONLY bloom when they are maintained in their optimal temperature range! (Just like eggs must be incubated within a narrow temperature range in order to hatch ­ it can't be too hot, or too cold! It's gotta be "just right." :­) So in case you were skeptical... Yes, proper temperature IS important!"

But before you start worrying too much, there's another thing you should know: One of the very reasons why Orchids make such FANTASTIC indoor plants is because they thrive in the very same temperature ranges we humans also find comfortable. But that being said, maintaining the "right" temperature can still sometimes be a challenge... Remember yesterday when we talked about orchids belonging to one of three light groups: Low Light, Medium Light, or Bright Light? Well, when discussing temperature, we can ALSO divide orchids into three broad categories. ================================ 3 TEMPERATURE CATEGORIES... ================================ In the case of temperature, orchids are classified as being: Cool, Intermediate, or Warm. The night­time temperatures that correspond with each of these categories are: ­ Cool (45­55F/7­14C), ­ Intermediate (55­60F/14­16C), and ­ Warm (65F/18C or higher). Now before we continue, did you notice something a bit "peculiar" about that last paragraph? If not, read it again... Did you catch it this time? Yes, that's not a typo ­ we ARE talking about NIGHT­time temperatures here... And just tuck that little fact in the back of your in mind for now. I'll explain the significance of this in a future newsletter :­) (or of course, you can learn what's the big deal about *night­time* temperatures right now simply by checking out our book at the link below). http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html

But in today's newsletter, we've got a lot to cover, so let's keep moving forward... ================================ COOL, MEDIUM, & WARM VARIETIES... ================================ Here are a few examples of orchid varieties belonging to each of the temperature categories mentioned above: Cool orchid examples include most Cymbidiums and Dendrobiums. Intermediate examples include Paphiopedliums and Oncidiums. And Warm examples include Phalaenopsis and Vandas. If you're not certain about where your particular orchid falls, be sure to consult a temperature chart (such as the one included in your copy of our book if you've ordered already) to determine the optimal temperature for your particular variety. Now before we continue further, let's take a moment to pause. Because by now, after reading the past three newsletters (and consulting the corresponding charts included in your book) you should have a pretty good sense of what your orchid needs when it comes to a.)Water, b.)Light, and c.)Temperature. For example if you have a Phalaeonopsis or "Moth"orchid, by now you've learned that: a.) It prefers to dry out between waterings b.) It enjoys "low light" conditions (with reference to the "shadow test" method we talked about yesterday), and... c.) It should be maintained in "warm" temperatures (65F/18C or higher) So things are starting to come together, right? Great! Well, we've still got a few CRITICAL things to cover when it comes to temperature, but I'm going to leave that for tomorrow's newsletter, where we'll continue the discussion... And keep your eyes glued to your email inbox, because in tomorrow's newsletter, I'm gonna share some tips that you won't want to miss... So stay tuned! Until then...

­ Ryan "The Orchid Guy" :­) P.S. The most dramatic success stories we hear all come from people who have benefited from both the newsletter AND the additional orchid info only contained in our book... So why not check out the book right now? Remember, with our 6­Month, 100% Money­Back Guarantee, you've got absolutely nothing to lose. To order your copy today risk­free, simply click on the link below: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html And when you order now, we'll also rush­ship $40 worth of free bonus materials along with your book! Thanks for reading :­) From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Tue May 17 2016 14:38:48 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ The Top 10 Reasons Why Your Orchid Won't Rebloom To: Ian Hi Ian, It's Ryan "the orchid guy" here :­) Have you ever found yourself staring at your flowerless orchid wondering, "Is this little guy ever going to bloom again? Maybe he's sick? What am I supposed to do?" If you've ever found yourself wondering why your orchid won't seem to bloom (AND how the heck you're supposed to get it to bloom again) then you're going to LOVE today's newsletter topic. Because over the next few days, I'm going to let you in on my list of the "Top 10 Reasons Why Your Orchid Won't Rebloom" ­ AND in the process divulge some of my secret tips on what you can do, taken directly from our book: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html If you're orchid is happily blooming without any problems right now, you might want to save these next few

newsletter... because they might come in handy for you one day ;­) Getting your orchid to rebloom can be one of the biggest challenges for both new and experienced orchid growers alike... but with a little advice (and a few secret tricks) there's a good chance that we can get your little guy blooming again :­) So without further delay, let's dive right into our list: THE 10 REASONS WHY YOUR ORCHID WON'T REBLOOM ================================ REASON #10: Young or Recently Divided Orchid ================================ If your orchid is not yet mature, or has been recently propagated (e.g. from cuttings, bulbs, etc.), there might not be anything wrong at all with your plant... You've just got to be a bit patient, and be willing to wait for your plant to reach blooming maturity. Orchid propagation is more of an advanced topic, so I'll leave the details for our book if you're interested in learning more... BUT, there are a few CRITICAL things you should know right now: If you're attempting to grow orchids directly from seeds, you might want to rethink that decision, and here's why: Did you know it can take anywhere from 1 to 12 years for an orchid to go from seed germination to flowering? Yes, you read that right... Up to 12 years! And did you know that most orchids take around 4 years to flower after germination? I don't know about you, but I don't have that kind of patience! :­) Because of this, today orchid seeds are germinated in laboratories where conditions can be controlled. The tiny orchid seeds have almost no food storage available, and therefore rely on special types of fungus for germination.

So my recommendation? Leave seeds the pros, and stick to mature plants! Stay tuned for your next newsletter, where I'll cover the #9 Most Common Reason Why Your Orchid Won't Rebloom... And trust me. You won't want to miss what I've got for you. ­Ryan "The Orchid Guy" :­) P.S. If you're just DYING to know all the top 10 reasons right now... You can get a COMPREHENSIVE orchid reference guide (which includes 100's of tips NOT covered in this newsletter) by ordering your copy of our book today! Simply visit: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Thanks for checking it out! From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Tue May 17 2016 14:44:30 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ Wait! Before You Use That New Orchid Potting Mix... To: Ian Hi Ian, It's Ryan "The Orchid Guy" here :­) In yesterday's newsletter, we talked about the importance of choosing the RIGHT potting material, and I included some critical tips from our book: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Well, I have to admit... I left out one VERY important piece of the puzzle when it comes to orchids and potting materials, and that is: No matter what potting material you choose to use­ and whether you go with a ready­made potting mix, or custom concoction ­ you must SOAK the material in water before using it! ================================ Here's how to soak your potting material: ================================

1. Place your potting material in a large plastic container (don't use metal, because the mix will absorb unwanted minerals). 2. Make sure the container has plenty of room to spare, because the potting mix will expand. 3. Fill the container with HOT water. 4. Let the potting mix soak in the hot water overnight. 5. The next day, drain the water by pouring the mix in a strainer and rinse the mix with warm water. The additional rinsing will help remove any dust and small particles. And then that's it! Your new potting mix is now ready to use on your plants :­) Until next time.... ­ Ryan "The Orchid Guy" P.S. To learn EVERYTHING you need to know about growing orchids right now ­ including 100s of little tips and tricks you won't find in anywhere else, please check out our book: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Remember, when you order today you don't risk a penny because you're protected by our 6­Month 100% Money­Back Guarantee. So you've got nothing to lose ­ AND your orchids will reward you in ways you can only imagine! :­) From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Tue May 17 2016 23:27:31 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ A Simple Orchid Fertilizer Checklist For You ­ (05/17/2016) To: Ian Nagy Hi Ian :­) It's Ryan "The Orchid Guy" here, and today we're going to continue covering MORE important orchid care basics, with a few additional tips from our book: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Today's topic is FERTILIZER. And I'm going to help you answer another question you might be asking, and that is: >> "What Should You Be FEEDING Your Orchid?"

I've got some important tips for you on this... But first, to make sure you and I are on the same page, let's go over a few fertilizer basics when it comes to orchids. ================================ ORCHID FERTILIZER 101 ================================ All fertilizers contain Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium as their principle ingredients. These are commonly referred to as N­P­K, and are expressed in numbers ­ in terms of their % content in a given fertilizer. So for example, when you look on bag of fertilizer and see "30­10­10", that fertilizer contains 30% Nitrogen, 10% Phosphorus, and 10% Potassium. Make sense? Good :­) Now, let's talk about the specific role each of these ingredients plays in the healthy growth of your orchid. ================================ 1. THE ROLE OF NITROGEN IN ORCHIDS ================================ Nitrogen is necessary for your orchid to grow. However, if you go OVERBOARD on the nitrogen, your plant will often grow into a towering GIANT! Now, your giant "freak" orchid might make for good dinner conversation... but the problem is that this excessive growth comes at a steep cost: And that cost is DELAYED ­ or in many cases ­ a COMPLETE ABSENCE of flowers! (My recommendation? Go easy on the Nitrogen...) ================================ 2. THE ROLE OF PHOSPHORUS IN ORCHIDS ================================ It's now understood today that phosphorus regulates MANY critical activities in orchids ­ including root growth and probably the most important: STIMULATING flowering.

But like Nitrogen, too much Phosphorus can cause some unwanted side effects: Too much Phosphorus can lead to stunted growth, and will often cause your plants to have excessively dark leaves. ================================ 3. THE ROLE OF POTASSIUM IN ORCHIDS ================================ Like Nitrogen, and Phosphorus, Potassium is also necessary for the healthy growth in your orchids. Too much Potassium can "burn" your plant, but a deficiency in Potassium is often going to result in orchids that have a "dwarf­like" appearance. Okay, so those are a few basics. Now, the question is: >> "What kind of fertilizer should you use?" There are many fertilizers on the market made specifically for orchids, and sometimes these can be a bit tough to find unless you go through a specialty retailer. But you don't necessarily have to stick to orchid fertilizers to be successful with your plants ­ some "generic" plant fertilizers are also perfectly acceptable. (The KEY is that your fertilizer MUST contain a few CRITICAL ingredients, and contain an acceptable ratio of N­P­K.) So let's put it all together... To help you choose the right fertilizer for your orchid, here's a simple "Orchid Fertilizer Checklist" that I like to use. // ================================ MY ORCHID FERTILIZER CHECKLIST: ================================ (#1) Nitrogen ­ Total amount is 20% or less. (#2) The source of nitrogen must be "Nitrate Nitrogen" or "Ammoniacal Nitrogen" (NOT Urea ­ because orchids cannot access the Nitrogen locked up in Urea)

(#3) Phosphorus ­ Any amount > 0% (#4) Contains Supplementary Calcium (up to 15%) (#5) Contains Magnesium (up to 8%) (#6) Should also contain trace elements like Sodium, Iron, Copper, etc. // By the way... Feel free to print up this list and take it with you to your garden store next time you pick up a container of fertilizer for your orchids :­) I've got some additional critical Fertilizer Tips that I think you should know about... And I'll be covering a few more of these in tomorrow's newsletter. Stay tuned! ­ Ryan "The Orchid Guy" :­) P.S. In the meantime, if you'd like a comprehensive orchid reference guide with EVERYTHING you need to know about orchid care (all in one place), check out our book on orchid care: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Wed May 18 2016 13:34:30 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ Orchids & Temperature (Part II) ­ (05/18/2016) To: Ian Nagy Hi Ian :­) In yesterday's newsletter, we started talking about the topic of orchids & temperature, with some tips from our book: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html And today we'll continue the discussion... So without further delay, let's get RIGHT to it! Once you've determined the optimal temperature range for your orchid (as discussed in yesterday's newsletter), your next step is to evaluate the temperature conditions in your home. And, when you do this, I have a few tips for you.

First, it's absolutely CRITICAL that you get an accurate reading of BOTH the high & low temperatures of your orchid's environment during the day and evening. Worried this is gonna be too much work? Well think again, because haven't you learned by now that I've usually got a little "trick" to help keep things completely simple? :­) Your "trick" when it comes to measuring temperature is going to be what's called a "maximum/minimum thermometer." A "min/max thermometer" is a device that gives you both the current temperature, as well as the high and low temperature over a given period of time ­ like say 24 hours. And for a little as under $20, you can pick one up at your local hardware store. Here's what to do: Let's assume that you've already got a min/max thermometer at home. Tomorrow morning when you wake up, set your thermometer to give you a min/max temperature reading over a *12 hour* period. And then in the evening, when the 12 hours are up, record the results. This is gonna give you your min/max DAY­time temperatures. Now, once you've finished doing that, set the thermometer again for 12 hours. The next morning when you wake up, record the results. This is gonna give you your min/max NIGHT­time temperatures. In total, you've only had to check the thermometer twice, and probably spend about 5 minutes of total work :­) Not too hard, right? Now the question is, what are you supposed to do with all this information? Take a look at your temperature readings. You want to be watching out for the extremes. Your biggest concern is that the temperature in your orchid's environment might be getting too hot or too cold for your orchid ­ even if just briefly.

So, when you take these temperature readings, it's important that you place the thermometer in the EXACT location where you plan to place your plant. It's not uncommon for the inside temperature of a home (or even a single room!) to vary by 20 degrees F or more depending on location of heat/air­conditioning vents, natural sunlight, airflow, and appliance use. And here's another tip: Don't forget to account for temperature changes within your home from one season to the next. For this, (if you're a little obsessive like me), I like to take a temperature reading on the 1st & 15th of every month, and keep track of this in a little notebook or a calendar. (And when you start keeping a little "temperature diary", it might benefit you in unexpected ways... For example, since I started recording temperature, we've managed to cut down on our air conditioning & heating bills by about 25% simply by eliminating waste. Pretty neat!) Now, if you live in a part of the world that experiences extreme fluctuations in temperature from one day to the next, you may want to take your monthly readings more often. Finally, if you find that your home isn't the ideal temperature for your particular variety ­ don't despair! Sometimes all it takes is moving your plant to a warmer/cooler location within your home ­ e.g. closer to the heating vent or a south­facing window, and presto! Problem solved :) Tomorrow, we switch gears a bit and cover something that has most growers mystified... Until then, to healthy vibrant blooms! :­) ­ Ryan "The Orchid Guy" P.S. If you'd like to have all this information in a nicely organized, professionally bound book(which by the way goes WAY beyond what's covered in this newsletter, and includes EVERYTHING you need to know about orchids) please visit: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html

You'll be in for a real treat! :­) From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Wed May 18 2016 14:35:15 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ Why Your Orchid Won't Rebloom: Reason #9 ­ (05/18/2016) To: Ian Hi Ian, It's Ryan "the orchid guy" here :­) In the last newsletter, we talked about the #10 Reason Why Your Orchid Won't Rebloom ­ with some tips on what to do about it from our book: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html (If you didn't get a chance to read that newsletter, you might want to go ahead and do that now...) Today, we continue our "Top 10" list and cover the #9 Reason Why Your Orchid Won't Rebloom. THE 10 REASONS WHY YOUR ORCHID WON'T REBLOOM ================================ REASON #9: Soil is Too "Wet" During Winter ================================ Several orchid varieties ­ most notably Dendrobiums ­ require an extended dry period during the winter months. Here's why: In their natural habitat, Dendrobiums experience a dry period during the winter months lasting up to several weeks. And in fact, this dry period is actually necessary to TRIGGER new flower buds to form! So what does this mean for you? If you're growing a Dendrobium, then you want to recreate this "dry period" for your orchid during the winter months by giving very little water to your plants. And when spring arrives, you should reintroduce a "normal" watering schedule to your dendrobium. After your artificial dry period during the winter has triggered new bud formation in your orchid, introducing a

normal watering schedule when spring arrives will mimic the spring rains that dendrobiums experience in their natural habitat. And doing this will cause the buds on your orchid to swell and produce new flowers ­ just in time for spring :­) (And believe me, this little trick actually works!) But here's something you should know that sometimes causes confusion among orchid newbies: The most common Dendrobium today is by far the "Dendrobium phalaenopsis." And yes, this IS in fact a Dendrobium variety. But be careful. The Dendrobium Phaelanopsis should NOT be confused with the very popular Phaelanopsis or "Moth" orchid. What's the difference, you ask? Whenever discussing orchids, the first name that you see is the "Genus" of the plant ­ for example Dendrobium ­ and when written it should always be capitalized. The second name that you see is the "species" of the plant, which is a specific variety of that Genus. It should always be lower­case. In our case of Dendrobium phaelanopsis ­ "Dendrobium" is the genus and "phalaenopsis" is the species. (technically, the proper name for this variety is Dendrobium *bigibum* ­ but it rarely goes by this name...) So to answer our earlier question, What's the difference between Dendrobium phaelanopsis and a plain old Phalaenopsis? Take a look at the tag on your plant. If the first name on your tag is "Dendrobium" and it is capitalized, then you have a dendrobium orchid on your hands. If the first name is "Phalaenopsis" and it's capitalized then your orchid is a Phalaenopsis. Now if your orchid only has ONE name, don't despair. It's safe to assume that the name refers to the GENUS of your plant.

So to sum things up: The popular "Dendrobium phalaenopsis" is in fact a Dendrobium ­ NOT a Phalaenopsis variety. By the way, if you've already ordered out book, the set of "Orchid Cheat Sheets" that you've received includes both a sheet for the "Dendrobium Phaelanopsis" AND the "Phalaenopsis" (because as you'll notice, despite their similar appearance, they have quite different care requirements...) If you haven't yet ordered your copy of our book and would like to receive the entire set of "Cheat Sheets" for all the most popular orchid varieties included absolutely FREE, please visit the following link: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html In tomorrow's newsletter our countdown continues, and we'll cover the #8 Reason Why Orchids Won't Rebloom... So stick around... More good stuff to come! ­Ryan "The Orchid Guy" :­) From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Wed May 18 2016 14:43:37 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ How to Repot Your Orchid, Step­by­Step ­ (05/18/2016) To: Ian Hi Ian, It's Ryan "The Orchid Guy" here :­) In yesterday's newsletter we talked about the importance of SOAKING your potting material in water overnight, before using it on your orchids. Today, I'm going to take you through the entire process of how to repot your orchid, step­by­step as summarized from our book: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html // *IMPORTANT: The book goes into MUCH more detail, and also includes step­by­step photos to help you better understand each step.

We included these photos because I know for many people, it's helpful to actually "see" what you should be doing each step of the way. You can order your copy at any time simply by visiting: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html // Okay, without further delay here we go: ================================ HOW TO REPOT YOUR ORCHID STEP­BY­STEP ================================ Before you begin, make sure that you thoroughly wash your hands and sterilize all your tools under a flame, or using a diluted bleach solution. (I sometimes like to use latex gloves to ensure I do not spread any foreign contaminants to my plants.) ======= STEP 1: ======= Turn your orchid & pot upside down, with one handheld over the potting material to prevent loose potting matter from falling out. ======= STEP 2: ======= Tap the bottom of your pot and/or use a sterilized knife to lightly scrape around the inside of the pot and potting matter. Gently remove the orchid from the pot and remove old potting matter from the roots with your hands. You might need to gently shake the roots to remove any material that sticks to the roots. ======= STEP 3: =======

Remove old, loose, damaged or diseased roots by using a sterilized cutting tool. A pair of garden shears works great or you can also use a knife. (Again, I know I've mentioned this to you several times, but I cannot over­stress how important is to sterilize your tools before trimming your plant ­ particularly when working with the roots.) ======= STEP 4: ======= If the roots are healthy for the most part, position the orchid in a pot one size larger than the previous pot. (Now is also the chance to change to a plastic or natural clay pot based on what you learned from one of our previous newsletters: Choosing The Perfect Pot for Your Plant.) You should position your orchid with the old growth toward the back, so that the new growth has space to grow (frontwards). Monopodial orchids (orchids that grow upwards rather than sideways)should be repotted in the center of the container. Now, if the majority of your orchid's roots are damaged/ diseased and need to be removed, repot your orchid in a new, sterilized pot of the same size (or smaller if necessary). ======= STEP 5: ======= Place the plant so that the new shoots are level with the pot rim. Position it in the new pot at the same depth as it was prior to repotting. ======= STEP 6: ======= Fill the bottom of your pot with a layer of Styrofoam peanuts to ensure proper drainage (optional). Then add your fresh potting matter.

For more info on choosing the right potting material for your orchid, please refer to the previous newsletter on that topic... (Or for more detail, refer to the "Potting Matter" section in the chapter of our book entitled Potting, Repotting, & Staking.) You should pack the matter around the orchid roots with your fingers, and ensure the orchid is secure. ======= STEP 7: ======= Place a wooden stake at the center of your pot and secure the new & old leaves carefully with string. And that's all there is to it! // Again, I know for some people it's easier to actually "see" how to do something like this when it's explained with photos. And if you're more of a "visual learner", you might find the step­by­step, photos included in our book quite helpful. If you haven't yet ordered, and would like to get your copy today, simply click on the following link: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Ordering is fast, easy, and secure. And the best part? Your order will be shipped within 24 hours of purchase. We work fast :­) Thanks again for reading, and more great orchid tips to come! ­Ryan "The Orchid Guy" :­) From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Thu May 19 2016 13:30:06 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ A Simple Orchid Fertilizer Checklist For You ­ (05/19/2016) To: Ian Nagy

Hi Ian :­) It's Ryan "The Orchid Guy" here, and today we're going to continue covering MORE important orchid care basics, with a few additional tips from our book: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Today's topic is FERTILIZER. And I'm going to help you answer another question you might be asking, and that is: >> "What Should You Be FEEDING Your Orchid?" I've got some important tips for you on this... But first, to make sure you and I are on the same page, let's go over a few fertilizer basics when it comes to orchids. ================================ ORCHID FERTILIZER 101 ================================ All fertilizers contain Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium as their principle ingredients. These are commonly referred to as N­P­K, and are expressed in numbers ­ in terms of their % content in a given fertilizer. So for example, when you look on bag of fertilizer and see "30­10­10", that fertilizer contains 30% Nitrogen, 10% Phosphorus, and 10% Potassium. Make sense? Good :­) Now, let's talk about the specific role each of these ingredients plays in the healthy growth of your orchid. ================================ 1. THE ROLE OF NITROGEN IN ORCHIDS ================================ Nitrogen is necessary for your orchid to grow. However, if you go OVERBOARD on the nitrogen, your plant will often grow into a towering GIANT! Now, your giant "freak" orchid might make for good dinner conversation... but the problem is that this excessive growth comes at a steep cost: And that cost is DELAYED ­ or in many cases ­ a COMPLETE ABSENCE of flowers!

(My recommendation? Go easy on the Nitrogen...) ================================ 2. THE ROLE OF PHOSPHORUS IN ORCHIDS ================================ It's now understood today that phosphorus regulates MANY critical activities in orchids ­ including root growth and probably the most important: STIMULATING flowering. But like Nitrogen, too much Phosphorus can cause some unwanted side effects: Too much Phosphorus can lead to stunted growth, and will often cause your plants to have excessively dark leaves. ================================ 3. THE ROLE OF POTASSIUM IN ORCHIDS ================================ Like Nitrogen, and Phosphorus, Potassium is also necessary for the healthy growth in your orchids. Too much Potassium can "burn" your plant, but a deficiency in Potassium is often going to result in orchids that have a "dwarf­like" appearance. Okay, so those are a few basics. Now, the question is: >> "What kind of fertilizer should you use?" There are many fertilizers on the market made specifically for orchids, and sometimes these can be a bit tough to find unless you go through a specialty retailer. But you don't necessarily have to stick to orchid fertilizers to be successful with your plants ­ some "generic" plant fertilizers are also perfectly acceptable. (The KEY is that your fertilizer MUST contain a few CRITICAL ingredients, and contain an acceptable ratio of N­P­K.) So let's put it all together... To help you choose the right fertilizer for your orchid, here's a simple "Orchid Fertilizer Checklist" that I like to use. // ================================

MY ORCHID FERTILIZER CHECKLIST: ================================ (#1) Nitrogen ­ Total amount is 20% or less. (#2) The source of nitrogen must be "Nitrate Nitrogen" or "Ammoniacal Nitrogen" (NOT Urea ­ because orchids cannot access the Nitrogen locked up in Urea) (#3) Phosphorus ­ Any amount > 0% (#4) Contains Supplementary Calcium (up to 15%) (#5) Contains Magnesium (up to 8%) (#6) Should also contain trace elements like Sodium, Iron, Copper, etc. // By the way... Feel free to print up this list and take it with you to your garden store next time you pick up a container of fertilizer for your orchids :­) I've got some additional critical Fertilizer Tips that I think you should know about... And I'll be covering a few more of these in tomorrow's newsletter. Stay tuned! ­ Ryan "The Orchid Guy" :­) P.S. In the meantime, if you'd like a comprehensive orchid reference guide with EVERYTHING you need to know about orchid care (all in one place), check out our book on orchid care: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Thu May 19 2016 14:38:06 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ Why Your Orchid Won't Rebloom: Reason #8 ­ (05/19/2016)

To: Ian Hi Ian, In today's newsletter, we continue our countdown of The Top 10 Reasons Why Orchids Won't Rebloom... In yesterday's newsletter, we talked about the importance of recreating a "dry winter" for certain types of orchids. Remember, certain orchids (like Dendrobiums) require a dry period of several weeks during the winter months in order to "trigger" new bud formation... Okay, without further delay let's continue where we left off: THE 10 REASONS WHY YOUR ORCHID WON'T REBLOOM ================================ REASON #8: Certain Pests & Diseases.... ================================ If your orchid is plagued with any sort of pest or disease, then you have what we call a "stressed" plant on your hands. And just like when you or your family gets sick, your orchid is using EVERY LAST OUNCE of energy to fight off those foreign bugs!... (It simply has NO energy left to produce flowers...) So to get your orchid to bloom again, the first thing you need to do is nurse your plant back to health :­) The topic of pests & disease naturally deserves more space than I can give it in this issue of your newsletter. (And we'll be talking about some effective ways to deal with a few common pests in a later newsletter.) But in the meantime, here are a few signs to watch out for: ­Yellow spots, holes, or "nibble marks" on the leaves or flowers ­Dark, soft, and rotting bulb/roots Do you see any of these signs on your orchid? Because if you've been having trouble getting your orchid to rebloom, and you SUSPECT there might be something plaguing your plant... ...then THAT'S where you should focus your attention.

Orchid pests come in many shapes and sizes. And some of the more common problems include Aphids, Thrips, Mealy Bugs, & Spider Mites ­ just to name a few... If your orchid needs IMMEDIATE help, you should know that we have an entire chapter in our book devoted to fighting off orchid pests & disease. And here's the link to learn more: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html In tomorrow's newsletter, our countdown of The Top 10 Reasons Why Orchids Won't Rebloom continues... So stay tuned, because Reason #7 usually catches people by surprise... To Healthy, Vibrant Blooms! ­Ryan "The Orchid Guy" http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Thu May 19 2016 14:42:47 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ Secret Home Remedy for Your Orchid's Roots...(05/19/2016) To: Ian Hi Ian, I have a great little home remedy for you today... If you remember from yesterday's newsletter, we talked about how you should trim back any damaged or diseased roots whenever you repot your orchid. Well, here's a great little tip for you: ...Next time you need to trim / cut back your orchid (and this tip applies whether you're trimming your orchid's roots, leaves, or the stem)... Apply a light dusting of *Cinnamon Powder* on the freshly cut areas of your plant. What does the Cinnamon do exactly? Cinnamon is a safe and all­natural fungicide, and applying a small amount on exposed areas your plant can protect it from fungus and bacteria!

(And by the way, it's pretty powerful stuff...) I like to have some Cinnamon on hand whenever I bring home a new plant with a bit of damage, or whenever I am performing a bit of routine "surgery" on my plants :­) ================================ CINNAMON: Here's how to use it: ================================ 1.) simply wet the recently cut / broken area of the plant with a bit of water so the cinnamon will stick. 2.) Either sprinkle the cinnamon directly onto the affected area, or pour a small amount in a plate first, and then "dip" the tips of the affected areas into the plate of cinnamon. But whichever method you prefer, be sure to use Cinnamon sparingly ­ too much cinnamon can actually inhibit root growth if used excessively. So you won't want to use it on otherwise healthy, uncut roots. ...Oh! And by the way, whenever you do any sort of cutting, make sure that your tools (scissors, knife, shears, etc.) are sterilized before you begin. To healthy, vibrant blooms! Ryan "The Orchid Guy" :­) P.S. Wanna learn DOZENS of neat little home remedies like this? Then I think you'll LOVE our book, because it contains literally hundreds of word­of­mouth tips, tricks, and orchid home remedies that you won't find anywhere else :­) To get your copy today, visit: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Thanks for reading! :­) From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Thu May 19 2016 23:29:09 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ Over or Under­Watering your Orchid? How can you tell? ­ (05/19/2016) To: Ian Nagy

Hi Ian :­) For many of us, when we first see signs of trouble with our orchids, our first reaction is often: "Maybe I'm giving it too much or too little water?" In today's newsletter, we'll answer the question: >> "How do you know if you're overwatering or underwatering your orchid?" It's a topic I cover in detail in our book: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html ...Because both overwatering and underwatering can cause damage, and even lead to killing your orchid, so it's important to determine whether improper watering is causing damage to your plant. But what are some of the tell­tale signs? If you ARE giving your orchid too much or too little water, you will most definitely see signs of water damage. Here are some (but not all) the signs to watch for: ================================ OVERWATERING vs. UNDERWATERING... ================================ For example, pleated, pluckered, soft and droopy leaves are all signs of underwatering. Your orchid may also suffer from shriveling pseudobulbs and something called "bud blast" (which is when the buds of your plant fall off before they've had a chance to flower.) Unfortunately though, these symptoms can also show up if you're OVER­watering your orchids as well.... So the question remains: How can you tell if you're over or under­watering orchid? The only reliable way to REALLY know for sure is to carefully remove your plant from its pot and examine the ROOTS directly* ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ *WARNING: Be extremely careful not to damage your plant when doing this ­ if you're not sure how to properly remove your plant from its pot, be sure to consult with an experienced

grower, or refer to the section of our book where we take you through the process step­by­step. ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ // ...but for today's newsletter, let's assume that you already know how to properly remove your plant in order to examine the roots. Once removed, you want to take a good close look at the entire root system of your plant. How does it look? ================================ Signs of OVER­watering include: ================================ Soggy, dark, mushy or foul­smelling roots ================================ Signs of UNDER­watering include: ================================ Dry, brittle and shriveled roots. // ...If you find the latter, look closely at the potting material to determine if your potting material is the cause of the problem. Coarse potting material interacts poorly with roots and can lead to dehydration. If the damage is limited, simply altering your watering schedule based on what you discover should be sufficient to bring your orchid back to full health. HOWEVER... If you find that the root / plant damage is extensive, you'll need to take specific *immediate* action by removing the damaged or diseased portion of your orchid's root system (otherwise you risk losing your orchid). ================================ WHAT TO DO NEXT... ================================

To see exactly what you should do to save an orchid that's been over or under­watered... Either consult with an experienced grower... ...Or refer to the section in our book: "My orchid has been over/under watered. Now what do I do?" That section will explain exactly what you need to do in step­by­step detail. Here's the link to grab yourself a copy if you haven't done so already: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Until next time, to healthy vibrant blooms! ­ Ryan "The Orchid Guy" From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Fri May 20 2016 13:29:56 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ Secret Orchid Home Remedy: Cinnamon ­ (05/20/2016) To: Ian Nagy Hi Ian, I have a great little home remedy for you today... If you remember from yesterday's newsletter, we talked about how you should trim back any diseased or damaged roots caused by over or under watering. Well, here's a great little tip for you: ...Next time you need to trim / cut back your orchid (and this tip applies whether you're trimming your orchid's roots, leaves, or the stem)... Apply a light dusting of *Cinnamon Powder* on the freshly cut areas of your plant. What does the Cinnamon do exactly? Cinnamon is a safe and all­natural fungicide, and applying a small amount on exposed areas your plant can protect it from fungus and bacteria!

(And by the way, it's pretty powerful stuff...) I like to have some Cinnamon on hand whenever I bring home a new plant with a bit of damage, or whenever I am performing a bit of routine "surgery" on my plants :­) ================================ CINNAMON: Here's how to use it: ================================ 1.) simply wet the recently cut / broken area of the plant with a bit of water so the cinnamon will stick. 2.) Either sprinkle the cinnamon directly onto the affected area, or pour a small amount in a plate first, and then "dip" the tips of the affected areas into the plate of cinnamon. But whichever method you prefer, be sure to use Cinnamon sparingly ­ too much cinnamon can actually inhibit root growth if used excessively. So you won't want to use it on otherwise healthy, uncut roots. ...Oh! And by the way, whenever you do any sort of cutting, make sure that your tools (scissors, knife, shears, etc.) are sterilized before you begin. To healthy, vibrant blooms! Ryan "The Orchid Guy" :­) P.S. Wanna learn DOZENS of neat little home remedies like this? Then I think you'll LOVE our book, because it contains literally hundreds of word­of­mouth tips, tricks, and orchid home remedies that you won't find anywhere else :­) To get your copy today, visit: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Thanks for reading! :­) From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Fri May 20 2016 13:34:56 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ 7 Simple Orchid Fertilizer Tips ­ (05/20/2016) To: Ian Nagy

Hi Ian, In yesterday's newsletter, we covered some important basics when it comes to choosing the right fertilizer for your orchids. And I shared my simple "Orchid Fertilizer Checklist" ­ you might want to print up the newsletter and keep it handy next time you go out to purchase fertilizer. And if you were curious, yes we also include the checklist in our book: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Here are a few more Orchid Fertilizer Tips for you that I didn't get a chance to squeeze into yesterday's newsletter. ================================ A FEW MORE FERTILIZER TIPS... ================================ ­­­­­­­­ NEVER... ­­­­­­­­ ...Apply more fertilizer than the dose recommended on the packaging. For generic fertilizers (i.e. not Orchid­specific), I usually like to play it safe and use about half the recommended dose. ...Fertilize orchids that are in sick or in poor condition. Nurse them back to full health first, and once they appear fully healthy again, THEN you can begin reintroducing fertilizer. ...Fertilize orchids with root damage. This is LITERALLY like pouring salt in your orchid's wound. Ouch! ...Apply fertilizer to dry potting matter. You should always ensure your potting matter is thoroughly soaked before applying fertilizer. // ­­­­­­­­ ALWAYS... ­­­­­­­­ ...Fertilize orchids when they're in "active" growth stages.

...Remove excess salts left by fertilizers: Drench your potting material with a thorough rinsing of water every two weeks to wash out excess fertilizer minerals. (This process is often called "leaching.") ...Finally, remove any "crusted" salt and mineral deposits left by your fertilizer on your orchid's pot using a damp cloth. (These deposits represent DANGEROUS concentrations of minerals that can actually "burn" your orchid if they come in contact with the leaves or roots.) And those are just a few more important fertilizer tips for you :­) // If you've enjoyed these tips so far ­ then I think you'll absolutely LOVE what I consider to be one of my BEST tightly­guarded fertilizer secrets: ================================ My Secret "Flowers on Steroids" Formula... ================================ Let me tell you: This formula is SO powerful, and SO effective... I've had folks write to me saying this one secret alone was worth the cost of their book.... And the best part? The formula is 100% All­Natural! Want this secret formula for yourself? Grab yourself a copy of our book, where I explain EXACTLY how what it is and it works: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html When you receive your copy of the book in the mail, flip directly to page 42... Try the formula on your orchids for yourself, and let me know what you think :­) (If you're like most people, this is going to change the way you care for your orchids FOREVER :­) Thanks for reading!

­ Ryan "The Orchid Guy" :­) P.S. To get my super secret "Flowers on Steroids" Fertilizer Formula, grab a copy of our book at the link below and flip to page 42: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Sat May 21 2016 13:28:13 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ What's That Mysterious, Sticky Substance on Your Orchid's Leaves? ­ (05/21/2016) To: Ian Nagy Hi Ian, We receive a large number of emails from readers with specific questions about their orchids. While we're not able to respond to everyone, we do our best to cover the most frequent questions at least briefly in our newsletter, and in full detail in our book. Here's an email that we received recently from Janet, one of our readers, followed by my response to her note: Janet's question... "Hello Ryan, I have a moth orchid given to me at Christmas, looked great, but now the buds are falling off and it has what looks like clear sticky glue­like substance forming on the stem. I have put the orchid and its pot into a glass pot with a rim into which the water is poured so that only a small amount of water can be taken up. Any advice please? ­Janet" My response to her note... "Hi Janet, What a fantastic Christmas gift :­) The sticky substance that you're finding on the stem is actually normal, and it's known as "honeydew". You can simply remove it with water. As far as your other questions ­ it's tough to sum up in a quick email, but the buds falling off sounds like what's

known as "bud blast" which is when the buds fall off before they have a chance to open. This is typically due to rapid changes in the plant's environment ­ including temperature and watering frequency. First thing you should do is get your orchid into a "groove" with a regular watering schedule and provide it with proper light, humidity, and light conditions ­ we have a Moth Orchid "Cheat Sheet" with this info that you might find useful. In terms of watering, make sure the potting matter is not sitting in water ­ you want to ensure proper drainage. As a general rule of thumb for moth orchids ­ the potting matter should be damp, not soaking... but also not bone dry. Hope this helps, and sorry to have to keep it brief! Please feel free to check out our book at: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html The proceeds help cover the cost of running our free orchid tips newsletter :­) To healthy, vibrant blooms! Ryan "The Orchid Guy" P.S. If YOU have a specific orchid question that you'd like to have answered, check out our website: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html to see if it's already covered in our book, otherwise send me an email and we'll try our best to touch on it in a future newsletter, and in the next edition of our book :­) Thanks again!! From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Sat May 21 2016 13:30:16 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ Over or Under­Watering your Orchid? How can you tell? ­ (05/21/2016) To: Ian Nagy Hi Ian :­) For many of us, when we first see signs of trouble with our orchids, our first reaction is often: "Maybe I'm giving it too much or too little water?"

In today's newsletter, we'll answer the question: >> "How do you know if you're overwatering or underwatering your orchid?" It's a topic I cover in detail in our book: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html ...Because both overwatering and underwatering can cause damage, and even lead to killing your orchid, so it's important to determine whether improper watering is causing damage to your plant. But what are some of the tell­tale signs? If you ARE giving your orchid too much or too little water, you will most definitely see signs of water damage. Here are some (but not all) the signs to watch for: ================================ OVERWATERING vs. UNDERWATERING... ================================ For example, pleated, pluckered, soft and droopy leaves are all signs of underwatering. Your orchid may also suffer from shriveling pseudobulbs and something called "bud blast" (which is when the buds of your plant fall off before they've had a chance to flower.) Unfortunately though, these symptoms can also show up if you're OVER­watering your orchids as well.... So the question remains: How can you tell if you're over or under­watering orchid? The only reliable way to REALLY know for sure is to carefully remove your plant from its pot and examine the ROOTS directly* ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ *WARNING: Be extremely careful not to damage your plant when doing this ­ if you're not sure how to properly remove your plant from its pot, be sure to consult with an experienced grower, or refer to the section of our book where we take you through the process step­by­step. ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ //

...but for today's newsletter, let's assume that you already know how to properly remove your plant in order to examine the roots. Once removed, you want to take a good close look at the entire root system of your plant. How does it look? ================================ Signs of OVER­watering include: ================================ Soggy, dark, mushy or foul­smelling roots ================================ Signs of UNDER­watering include: ================================ Dry, brittle and shriveled roots. // ...If you find the latter, look closely at the potting material to determine if your potting material is the cause of the problem. Coarse potting material interacts poorly with roots and can lead to dehydration. If the damage is limited, simply altering your watering schedule based on what you discover should be sufficient to bring your orchid back to full health. HOWEVER... If you find that the root / plant damage is extensive, you'll need to take specific *immediate* action by removing the damaged or diseased portion of your orchid's root system (otherwise you risk losing your orchid). ================================ WHAT TO DO NEXT... ================================ To see exactly what you should do to save an orchid that's been over or under­watered... Either consult with an experienced grower... ...Or refer to the section in our book: "My orchid has been over/under watered. Now what do I do?"

That section will explain exactly what you need to do in step­by­step detail. Here's the link to grab yourself a copy if you haven't done so already: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Until next time, to healthy vibrant blooms! ­ Ryan "The Orchid Guy" From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Sat May 21 2016 23:27:18 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ 5 Quick Tips to Prevent Orchid Pests & Disease To: Ian Nagy Hi Ian :­) Today's orchid newsletter is a quickie... Here are five (5) quick, easy, and inexpensive ways to help prevent nasty orchid pests and disease... (I pulled these tips from a LONGER list of tips & secrets from our book: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html If you've ordered your copy already, while you're waing for your book to arrive, I figured these few tips will help get you started... Enjoy! :­) // ================================ 5 WAYS TO PREVENT ORCHID PESTS & DISEASE ================================ (#1) Always use sterilized tools whenever working with orchids ­ especially when you are cutting roots, leaves, and/or stems.

**Intense heat (like the flame from a lighter) or a diluted solution of bleach can be used to sterilize your tools. (#2) Always water your plants early in the day to allow for all water to dry before cooler night­time temperatures. **Use cotton swabs to remove excess water that gets stuck in all the little nooks of your plant. (#3) Never let orchids or their pots sit in water. This will cause root rot. Here's an easy way to remember: Orchids like to keep their "feet" dry :­) (#4) Never over­crowd your orchids. Make sure that they have adequate air circulation around them. **A fan can be used to replicate the gentle breeze that orchids enjoy in their natural outdoor environment. (#5) Always repot your orchids in NEW potting matter, and use NEW (or sterilized) pots. // Just a few quick tips :­) To Healthy, Vibrant Blooms! ­ Ryan "The Orchid Guy" P.S. If you'd like to learn dozens of more tips like these, then you might really benefit from our book, "Orchids Made Easy". Here's what one of our readers, Georgeanne from Atlanta, Georgia kindly wrote to us recently after receiving her copy of the book in the mail: // "Ryan, I love your book. It's all I want to know about orchids and didn't even know WHAT to ask!!! Now, hopefully, I'll be able to keep up with my sister who always gets her orchids to rebloom. (And, with all my new knowledge, thanks to you, I'll outdo her!) Thanks again, GG P.S. I especially like the "Quick and Dirty" light test :­) //

If you'd like to receive a copy mailed to you today, simply use the following link to order: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Or if you'd prefer to mail a check or send money order, send us an email and we'll provide you with payment instructions, no problem :­) Thanks again!! From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Sun May 22 2016 13:27:17 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ Ants Infesting Your Orchids? Here's what to do... ­ (05/22/2016) To: Ian Nagy Hi Ian, I received the following note from Paul from Sacramento, CA recently, who was having an ant problem with his orchids...If you've ever had an ant problem in your home (and I'm not only talking about with your orchids here), then you might find the safe "home remedy" solutions that I offer to Paul useful as well :­) Keep reading to learn exactly how I solved the ant problem in my home... for GOOD! :­) // PAUL'S QUESTION: "Ryan, I just watered one of my orchids, and all of these ants appeared. They somehow got into the house and moved in. I grow my plants on shelves with lights over them IN THE HOUSE. I need them GONE. What's an easy way of getting rid of them? I have some ideas, but they aren't very good. I would like something without chemicals, because I have 3 cats, and anything that goes in the ground gets into our well water. Thanks! ­ Paul" // MY RESPONSE:

"Hi Paul, thanks for your note. Let's see if I can help you out. I've actually got quite a few different solutions you can try to get rid ofyour ant problem ­­ and I'll give you my entire list, so you can find the solution that works best for you! First, here are two *safe* Commercial Solutions: 1. Orange Guard is a good pesticide that is safe to use around pets, children, and food. 2. I use Terro (an organic ant control). It is fool proof, safe, and has never failed me at home or at the office. Now for some "Home Remedies" that I've used over the years: ================================ MY 5 FAVORITE ANT HOME REMEDIES ================================ 1. Simple, Cheap Anti­Ant Solution... White vinegar in a spray bottle ­ Safe for your plants, but ants can't stand it! // 2. Anti­Ant plants.... Peppermint, spearmint, oregano, bay leaf, garlic, pennyroyal or a combination of eucalyptus leaves (which you can get at a flower shop) Just keep a few of these guys around the rest of your plants and the ants will RUN for cover! // 3. Stuff you can sprinkle around your plants... Whole cloves (supermarket spice section) or a sprinkle of cinnamon, black pepper, red pepper or cayenne pepper flakes. // 4. Another Pet & Child Safe, Anti­Ant Solution... Mix orange or grapefruit juice, water and liquid soap together (equal parts) and spray your affected area. The juice attracts them, and the soap sends them packing! // 5. Form a Perimeter!...

Ants won't step on or over powdered charcoal, bone meal, talcum powder or chalk... Apply a dusting around your plants or home, and ants will stay away (until the rain washes your protective barrier away, of course...) // 6. And finally, when all else fails (Bonus Home Remedy...) ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ *Warning: Not safe to use around pets or children and definitely NOT for the faint of heart... ­ ­ ­ ­ ­ Make a syrup of 1/2 cup sugar, 1/4 cup water, and2 teaspoons borax. Cook until smooth and well blended. Let cool. Put in old jar lids where you see the ants coming in (near windows/doors). They bring it back to their nests... It makes them very thirsty and when they drink water they explode (yikes!)... I've been told that the same effect happens with cornmeal, which is a safe alternative to the borax! In any case, hopefully you'll find a solution that works for you, and best of luck solving your ant problem! ­ Ryan" // To healthy, vibrant blooms! Ryan "The Orchid Guy" :­) P.S. Wanna learn DOZENS of neat little home remedies like this? Then I think you'll LOVE our book, because it contains literally hundreds of word­of­mouth tips, tricks, and orchid home remedies that you won't find anywhere else :­) To get your copy today, visit: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Thanks for reading! :­) From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Sun May 22 2016 14:47:50 GMT+0530 (IST)

Subject: Ian ­ What to Do When Your Orchid Has Finished Blooming... To: Ian Hi Ian, It's Ryan "The Orchid Guy" here, and I hope this email finds you well today :­) In today's newsletter, we're going to touch on another reblooming question that many people have, and which we cover in great detail in our book: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html That question is: "After the flowers fall off, what should you do with the stem? Should you cut it, and if so ­ how? And where exactly?" For some strange reason, what to do with the stem after an orchid reblooms is one of those questions where if you ask 10 people, you'll get 11 different answers! But for me, after testing many different approaches over the years, I've fine­tuned my own personal technique to the point that I've developed an almost step­by­step formula of exactly what to do every time an orchid finishes blooming. And in today's newsletter, I'll give you a sneak peak of my process as I explain it in our book. So to get back to the original question, SHOULD you cut the stem after an orchid finishes blooming? I must say, the answer is a resounding 'Yes'! You SHOULD remove the stem off nearly all orchids once the flowers have died and fallen off, and in fact, this is something I do EVERY time my orchids have finished blooming. Here's why: I wish I could claim what I'm about to share with you as something I discovered myself, but I can't. However, I have run several tests over the years on my own plants, and confirmed for my own curiosity what I'm about to tell you WORKS:

Cutting back your orchids can accelerate the next bloom cycle of your plants by MONTHS. On some of my plants, for me this has meant the difference between getting blooms three times a year versus only once or twice! I can't stress enough how important this one little step can be for you. But BEFORE you rush to your orchid right now to cut back its stem, you should first check the tip of the stem to see if it is dry. A dry stem is a sign that the stem is dying and therefore is safe to cut back (you never want to cut back a living stem that's still otherwise healthy.) Now, the actual "how to" part of cutting back your orchid isn't terribly difficult... BUT, there ARE a few *critical* tips you should know about... ...and if you want to learn what they are...And EXACTLY how to cut back, I share all my little secrets in our book ;­) Until next time! ­ Ryan "The Orchid Guy" :­) P.S. Okay... I'm not THAT mean!... I promised that I'd give you a "sneak peak", and I'm going to live up to that promise... So here's an important tip for you when it comes to cutting back your orchid: Whenever you cut or trim your orchid ­ whether the leaves, roots, or stem ­ make sure that you first sterilize your tools (and thoroughly wash your hands) to prevent infection. This is absolutely essential because orchids can be EXTREMELY sensitive to outside germs. A quick and easy way to sterilize your tools is to put the blade of your knife or shears under a flame (like from a lighter) for at least 60 seconds. Or for larger tools, you can also dip them in a diluted solution of bleach and water (1 part bleach to 9 parts water) for several minutes.

Just be sure to wipe your tool dry with a clean paper towel or tissue, and if you use a flame ­ make sure that it is cool to the touch before using on your plant. And when you're finished, thoroughly rinse your tools because bleach can be highly corrosive and can cause metal to rust if not rinsed off completely. P.P.S. Okay, ONE MORE TIP... That last one might have been a bit too basic for you... So, I'll give away one of my "real" secrets... But JUST one. If you're growing a Phalaeonopsis (or "Moth Orchid") one of their greatest features is that you can actually "trick" them into producing a secondary flower spike after the flowers on the main spike have stopped blooming! (and therefore extend their blooming time over the course of the year by MONTHS...) To make this happen, you'll have to find what I call your orchid's "sweet spot" ­ which as you'll discover in a moment is the exact spot you should cut back the stem once the flowers have fallen off... ================================ HOW TO FIND YOUR ORCHID'S "SWEET SPOT": ================================ Find the point on your orchid's stem where the first flower bloomed (the flower closest to the base of your plant, and furthest from the tip of the stem.) Did you find it? Good. Now move down a bit toward the base of the stem and feel for the "node" (the little bump on the stem) immediately below where the first flower bloomed. At the base of this node is a hidden, resting flower bud. In a moment, you're going to "wake up" this bud so it will produce another flower spike for you.

To "wake up" this bud, cut of the "spent" flower spike (the one that's lost all its flowers) with your sterilized tool right at the base of the node. Give it a week or two, and in about 80% of all cases cutting back here will stimulate the production of a secondary flower spike at this node... And this little "secret" trick can give you an extra couple months worth of blooms every single year! :­) Pretty neat, right? But a word of caution. Be careful... Don't rebloom your orchids to death! Blooming your orchid repeatedly can exhaust the plant. (And moth orchids don't know any better... they won't stop blooming until they wear themselves out!) If your orchid shows signs of fatigue – including puckered or wrinkled leaves, then you're best bet is to cut off the spike with the remaining flowers, stick the spike in a vase with water, and give your plant a chance to catch up on some much needed rest! P.P.P.S. If you enjoy these sort of tips, then I think you'll REALLY enjoy our book. While we try to offer as much help as possible in our free newsletter, the book is well worth it, because the newsletter only scratches the surface of what we cover...AND we save the "juiciest" secrets for the book only :­) To order your copy of the book (and get $40 in free bonus materials when you order today), please click on the link below: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Thanks again for taking the time to check it out, and more tips to come! :­) From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Mon May 23 2016 14:33:08 GMT+0530 (IST)

Subject: Ian ­ Why Your Orchid Won't Rebloom: Reason #4 ­ (05/23/2016) To: Ian Hi Ian, I hope you're doing well today :­) In our last newsletter, we talked about how the right fertilizer is crucial to getting your orchid to rebloom... And today, we'll be covering the next reason on our list why you might not be able to get your orchid to rebloom... So let's get to it! THE 10 REASONS WHY YOUR ORCHID WON'T REBLOOM ================================ REASON #4: Not Giving Your Orchid Enough Water ================================ A few newsletters ago, we talked about some of the problems associated with OVER­watering... ...but UNDER­watering your orchid can also be a reason why you might be having trouble getting blooms on your plant. A quick and easy way to tell if you're under­watering is to gently remove your plant from the pot and take a look at the roots. Simply take a knife and gently scrape around the edges of the potting matter, put your hand over the potting matter, turn the pot over, and remove the plant. You'll see dry and shriveled roots if your plant is not getting enough water. The potting material will be bone dry, and potentially even rock hard. Depending on the severity of the problem, you may need to remove some of the roots, and repot the plant in new potting matter (we explain how to do this with step­by­step photos in our book), or you can try placing the plant back in the pot as is, and increase your watering schedule. Potting matter should be damp, but not overly wet. For a quick rule of thumb, stick your finger 1­2 inches into the potting matter. If it feels moist, then you don't need

to water. But, if it's dry to the touch, then it's time to give your plant some water! In the next newsletter, we'll be covering the #3 Reason why your orchid won't bloom ­ and if you've been having trouble getting your orchid to flower, this is where you'll want to really start paying close attention :­) In the meantime, if you'd like to take another look at our book, and learn more about some of the other neat tips & tricks you'll learn about caring for your orchids, simply click on the link below: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html As always...To healthy, vibrant blooms! ­Ryan "The Orchid Guy" From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Mon May 23 2016 14:41:41 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ Reblooming Home Remedy: 'Candle Wax' ­ (05/23/2016) To: Ian Hi Ian, It's Ryan "The Orchid Guy" here :­) I know yesterday's newsletter was a bit long and you might not have had a chance to read it all the way through.... So I'll give you a chance to catch up by keeping today's newsletter short and sweet :­) Today, I've got another quick "home remedy" for you. This one will help you with reblooming. After your orchid has finished reblooming and you cut back the stem, here's an excellent trick for preventing infection: Using the hot wax from a candle, you can actually "seal" the freshly cut tip of your orchid's stem, which is an excellent way to prevent infection! Here's what to do: Once you've cut back your stem using your sterilized tools, simply light a candle and allow it to accumulate a little melted wax around the wick.

Blow out the candle. And before the wax has a chance to harden again, touch the wet wax to the exposed tip of your freshly cut stem. Voila! In less than 2 minutes, you've created a home­made protective coating for the exposed tip of your orchid's stem. And this little trick will help keep your orchid disease free for months! To learn HUNDREDS of MORE tips like this today, click on the link below right now: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Here's what a few of our readers have had to say after receiving their copy of the book: ­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­ "Ryan, I received your book as a gift­­ Am enjoying it immensely­­ so are my orchids­­ I love all the hints!(And yes­­of course you can print my comment­­along with my best wishes for all to have happy orchids­­B.J.)" ­ Betty Jane, Traverse City, MI ­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­ "Ryan, Your book is well written and easy to understand. Each topic I search out gives me a better understanding on what and what not to do. Your simple and clear solutions are what I understand! Thank you! Duffy" ­Duffy Edwards, British Columbia, Canada ­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­ "Hi Ryan, I can't begin to tell you how helpful your advice has been to me. I am a beginner when it comes to the care of Orchids. I've been told I have a green thumb but we all know there is more to it. Your tips have answered so many of the basic questions a beginner has and my Orchids look happy and healthy. I'm so glad I found your web site!" ­Tony Martinesi, Staten Island. N.Y. ­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­ If you'd like to order your copy of the book today, simply click on the link below, and choose which option you'd like to receive:

http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Thanks again! ­ Ryan "The Orchid Guy" http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Mon May 23 2016 23:29:03 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ Quick Orchid Home Remedy For You: Listerine??.... (05/23/2016) To: Ian Nagy Hi Ian, I have a quick home remedy for you today.... ...and it comes straight from our medicine cabinet. Today's secret is Listerine... Listerine has anti­fungal properties, and the alcohol content also makes it effective against bugs! This "2­in­1" home remedy can be used as a spray at full strength for short periods (about 2­3 consecutive days is okay) as a preventative measure on your orchids... Simply spray your plant lightly once a week or so, and you'll have yourself a quick and easy way to keep away unwanted pests and disease, and ensure your plant stays healthy. Just be sure to ONLY use the original (gold colored) version, because the flavored versions have added substances that are not 100% orchid­friendly :­) To healthy vibrant blooms! Ryan "The Orchid Guy" // P.S. If you can't tell, I'm very big on using home remedies... And the reason why is because once you've learned what works and what doesn't, you can USE these same remedies not just on your orchids... ... But on all SORTS of things ­ on other houseplants, in the garden, around the house, with your pets, children, grandchildren and MORE! So my question for you today is this:

Want to learn DOZENS MORE great home remedies like this? Well, I cover them ALL in our book... And you can grab yourself a copy of that book now, by visiting: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html (BTW... The money alone you'll save by replacing commercial products with the simple ingredients I show you will save you FAR MORE than the cost of the book... So if you've been looking for a way to justify the cost of investing in the book... ... Between learning how to save dying orchids that would otherwise be headed to the trash bin... ... AND learning how to use super­duper cheap home remedies in place of EXPENSIVE commercial products, you'll actually be SAVING hundreds of dollars in the long­run, simply by using the new information you'll be armed with in our book... Here's that link to claim your copy now: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Thanks so much for reading! From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Tue May 24 2016 09:33:28 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: FREE VIDEO: My #2 Orchid Home Remedy Tip :­) To: Ian Hi Ian, It's Ryan "The Orchid Guy" here and I've got a great Orchid Care home remedy *VIDEO* tip for you today... Now, in case you're wondering... In certain issues of my Free Orchid Tips & Secrets newsletter ­ I also like share VIDEO tips from time­to­time I think will be especially helpful to you :­) Because in addition to our BOOK on orchids... If you're more of a "Visual Learner" or the type of person who likes to *SEE* things explained...

... We also have very popular DVD Course on orchids ­ which shows EVERYTHING you need to know to care for your orchids, including: * How to pot and repot, step­by­step... * How and where to cut back your orchid... * How to identify & treat pests and disease... * And EVERYTHING else you need to know... You can learn more about that DVD Course at any time, by visiting: http:/www.orchidsmadeeasy.com/dvd Now, in TODAY's email, I wanted to share a FREE quick video tip where my good friend Chuck shows how EASY it is to treat and even prevent nearly all orchid diseases using my #2 Favorite Orchid Home Remedy: A SIMPLE little ingredient you probably have sitting right there in your kitchen cupboard... Go ahead and see how this home remedy works here: FREE VIDEO: My #2 Favorite Orchid Home Remedy... (*NOTE: If the video asks you to enter your name and email, just click "skip this step" ­ you're already signed up :­) Click Here to Watch The Free Orchid Video Tip And by the way... AFTER you've watched the video, please click the "LIKE" button to let me know if you've found it helpful... AND because we'll be creating more short video tips like this, please ALSO *leave a comment* below the video letting me know what you'd like for us to cover in future video tips! Okay, here's the link again: FREE VIDEO: My #2 Favorite Orchid Home Remedy... I hope you enjoy and have a GREAT day :­) My warmest regards, Ryan "The Orchid Guy" :­) P.S. For more tips like these, and to learn EVERYTHING you need to know about caring for your orchid (including going WAY beyond just the basics) check out our DVD set at: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/dvd

I think you'll LOVE what you're about to discover in this fun and exciting course :­) From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Wed May 25 2016 13:31:25 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ Reblooming Home Remedy: 'Candle Wax' ­ (05/25/2016) To: Ian Nagy Hi Ian, It's Ryan "The Orchid Guy" here :­) I know yesterday's newsletter was a bit long and you might not have had a chance to read it all the way through.... So I'll give you a chance to catch up by keeping today's newsletter short and sweet :­) Today, I've got another quick "home remedy" for you. This one will help you with reblooming. After your orchid has finished reblooming and you cut back the stem, here's an excellent trick for preventing infection: Using the hot wax from a candle, you can actually "seal" the freshly cut tip of your orchid's stem, which is an excellent way to prevent infection! Here's what to do: Once you've cut back your stem using your sterilized tools, simply light a candle and allow it to accumulate a little melted wax around the wick. Blow out the candle. And before the wax has a chance to harden again, touch the wet wax to the exposed tip of your freshly cut stem. Voila! In less than 2 minutes, you've created a home­made protective coating for the exposed tip of your orchid's stem. And this little trick will help keep your orchid disease free for months! To learn HUNDREDS of MORE tips like this today, click on the link below right now: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html

Here's what a few of our readers have had to say after receiving their copy of the book: ­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­ "Ryan, I received your book as a gift­­ Am enjoying it immensely­­ so are my orchids­­ I love all the hints!(And yes­­of course you can print my comment­­along with my best wishes for all to have happy orchids­­B.J.)" ­ Betty Jane, Traverse City, MI ­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­ "Ryan, Your book is well written and easy to understand. Each topic I search out gives me a better understanding on what and what not to do. Your simple and clear solutions are what I understand! Thank you! Duffy" ­Duffy Edwards, British Columbia, Canada ­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­ "Hi Ryan, I can't begin to tell you how helpful your advice has been to me. I am a beginner when it comes to the care of Orchids. I've been told I have a green thumb but we all know there is more to it. Your tips have answered so many of the basic questions a beginner has and my Orchids look happy and healthy. I'm so glad I found your web site!" ­Tony Martinesi, Staten Island. N.Y. ­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­ If you'd like to order your copy of the book today, simply click on the link below, and choose which option you'd like to receive: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Thanks again! ­ Ryan "The Orchid Guy" http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Thu May 26 2016 13:32:06 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ Reblooming Home Remedy: 'Candle Wax' ­ (05/26/2016) To: Ian Nagy

Hi Ian, It's Ryan "The Orchid Guy" here :­) I know yesterday's newsletter was a bit long and you might not have had a chance to read it all the way through.... So I'll give you a chance to catch up by keeping today's newsletter short and sweet :­) Today, I've got another quick "home remedy" for you. This one will help you with reblooming. After your orchid has finished reblooming and you cut back the stem, here's an excellent trick for preventing infection: Using the hot wax from a candle, you can actually "seal" the freshly cut tip of your orchid's stem, which is an excellent way to prevent infection! Here's what to do: Once you've cut back your stem using your sterilized tools, simply light a candle and allow it to accumulate a little melted wax around the wick. Blow out the candle. And before the wax has a chance to harden again, touch the wet wax to the exposed tip of your freshly cut stem. Voila! In less than 2 minutes, you've created a home­made protective coating for the exposed tip of your orchid's stem. And this little trick will help keep your orchid disease free for months! To learn HUNDREDS of MORE tips like this today, click on the link below right now: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Here's what a few of our readers have had to say after receiving their copy of the book: ­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­ "Ryan, I received your book as a gift­­ Am enjoying it immensely­­ so are my orchids­­ I love all the hints!(And yes­­of course you can print my comment­­along with my best wishes for all to have happy orchids­­B.J.)" ­ Betty Jane, Traverse City, MI ­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­

"Ryan, Your book is well written and easy to understand. Each topic I search out gives me a better understanding on what and what not to do. Your simple and clear solutions are what I understand! Thank you! Duffy" ­Duffy Edwards, British Columbia, Canada ­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­ "Hi Ryan, I can't begin to tell you how helpful your advice has been to me. I am a beginner when it comes to the care of Orchids. I've been told I have a green thumb but we all know there is more to it. Your tips have answered so many of the basic questions a beginner has and my Orchids look happy and healthy. I'm so glad I found your web site!" ­Tony Martinesi, Staten Island. N.Y. ­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­­ If you'd like to order your copy of the book today, simply click on the link below, and choose which option you'd like to receive: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Thanks again! ­ Ryan "The Orchid Guy" http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Thu May 26 2016 14:47:11 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ Why Your Orchid Won't Rebloom: Reason #9 ­ (05/26/2016) To: Ian Hi Ian, It's Ryan "the orchid guy" here :­) In the last newsletter, we talked about the #10 Reason Why Your Orchid Won't Rebloom ­ with some tips on what to do about it from our book: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html (If you didn't get a chance to read that newsletter, you might want to go ahead and do that now...)

Today, we continue our "Top 10" list and cover the #9 Reason Why Your Orchid Won't Rebloom. THE 10 REASONS WHY YOUR ORCHID WON'T REBLOOM ================================ REASON #9: Soil is Too "Wet" During Winter ================================ Several orchid varieties ­ most notably Dendrobiums ­ require an extended dry period during the winter months. Here's why: In their natural habitat, Dendrobiums experience a dry period during the winter months lasting up to several weeks. And in fact, this dry period is actually necessary to TRIGGER new flower buds to form! So what does this mean for you? If you're growing a Dendrobium, then you want to recreate this "dry period" for your orchid during the winter months by giving very little water to your plants. And when spring arrives, you should reintroduce a "normal" watering schedule to your dendrobium. After your artificial dry period during the winter has triggered new bud formation in your orchid, introducing a normal watering schedule when spring arrives will mimic the spring rains that dendrobiums experience in their natural habitat. And doing this will cause the buds on your orchid to swell and produce new flowers ­ just in time for spring :­) (And believe me, this little trick actually works!) But here's something you should know that sometimes causes confusion among orchid newbies: The most common Dendrobium today is by far the "Dendrobium phalaenopsis." And yes, this IS in fact a Dendrobium variety. But be careful. The Dendrobium Phaelanopsis should NOT be confused with the very popular Phaelanopsis or "Moth" orchid. What's the difference, you ask?

Whenever discussing orchids, the first name that you see is the "Genus" of the plant ­ for example Dendrobium ­ and when written it should always be capitalized. The second name that you see is the "species" of the plant, which is a specific variety of that Genus. It should always be lower­case. In our case of Dendrobium phaelanopsis ­ "Dendrobium" is the genus and "phalaenopsis" is the species. (technically, the proper name for this variety is Dendrobium *bigibum* ­ but it rarely goes by this name...) So to answer our earlier question, What's the difference between Dendrobium phaelanopsis and a plain old Phalaenopsis? Take a look at the tag on your plant. If the first name on your tag is "Dendrobium" and it is capitalized, then you have a dendrobium orchid on your hands. If the first name is "Phalaenopsis" and it's capitalized then your orchid is a Phalaenopsis. Now if your orchid only has ONE name, don't despair. It's safe to assume that the name refers to the GENUS of your plant. So to sum things up: The popular "Dendrobium phalaenopsis" is in fact a Dendrobium ­ NOT a Phalaenopsis variety. By the way, if you've already ordered out book, the set of "Orchid Cheat Sheets" that you've received includes both a sheet for the "Dendrobium Phaelanopsis" AND the "Phalaenopsis" (because as you'll notice, despite their similar appearance, they have quite different care requirements...) If you haven't yet ordered your copy of our book,a nd would like to receive the entire set of "Cheat Sheets" for all the most popular orchid varieties included absolutely FREE, please visit the following link: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html In tomorrow's newsletter our countdown continues, and we'll cover the #8 Reason Why Orchids Won't Rebloom... So stick around... More good stuff to come!

­Ryan "The Orchid Guy" :­) From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Fri May 27 2016 09:36:49 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Premature Orchid Bloom Drop: What Could be the Cause? To: Ian Nagy Dear Ian, Have you ever experienced what I like to call "premature bloom drop" with your orchids? You know, when the blooms seem to fall off faster than you'd expect? Well in case you're curious... It's something you can (usually) PREVENT. And if you keep reading, I'll show you how... Because this week... I received an email question from a reader ­ Gerri Pisciotta from Westchester, CA ­ worried about sudden bloom drop in HER orchids... Her situation is intriguing... So I tackled Gerri's question in detail in this week's "Ask the Orchid Guy" column, available to Green Thumb Club members, which you can check out here yourself: http://www.orchidsmadeeasy.com/ask/premature­orchid­bloom­drop/ Now, in case you're wondering... Because I receive hundreds of emails every single day and I'm not able to personally respond to each and every question... Every single week, I tackle ONE or TWO reader questions in DETAIL as part of a weekly column I write called: "Ask the Orchid Guy"... All questions are available to the public ­ but my detailed answers are made exclusively available to Orchids Made Easy "Green Thumb Club" members...

And you can check out this week's column to see what's going on with Gerri's orchids, along with my detailed recommendation, simply by clicking on the link below: http://www.orchidsmadeeasy.com/ask/premature­orchid­bloom­drop/ By the way, there's a shocking "before and after" photo that I've included with my recommendation that'll show you just how powerful what I talk about can be... Have a great weekend ­ and I'll talk to you soon! To healthy, VIBRANT blooms! Ryan "The Orchid Guy" :­) PS ­ Not yet a Green Thumb Club member? Click on the link below and follow the instructions to sign up today: http://www.orchidsmadeeasy.com/ask/premature­orchid­bloom­drop/ Membership is less than the cost of a meal at McDonalds (and healthier ­ both for you AND your orchids!) :­) From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Fri May 27 2016 23:25:27 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ 2 More Reasons Why Orchid Flowers Fall Off To: Ian Nagy Hi Ian :­) In yesterday's newsletter we covered a few reasons why your orchid's flowers may have suddenly fallen off. And as promised, today I'm going to reveal a couple more reasons why your orchid's flowers will suddenly fall off, plus a few tips taken right from our book: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html 2 Reasons Why Orchid Flowers Suddenly Fall Off ================================

REASON #1: RAPID CHANGE IN TEMPERATURE ================================ Orchids are sensitive to any sudden changes in their environment ­ and they're particularly sensitive to rapid changes in temperature. One of the most common reasons why a newly purchased orchid will suddenly lose its flowers is because the plant goes through "shock" when it is suddenly introduced to a new environment ­ namely your home. A sudden change in temperature can also be the cause of two other flower problems: 1. Healthy plants with buds that shrivel and falloff the stem before they have a chance to open suffer from what's called "bud blast." And a rapid & sudden change in temperature is usually to blame! 2. If your flowers wither and look wrinkled before they fall off, this can be happening because your orchid is not getting sufficient water. BUT it can ALSO be due to a sudden change in your plant's environment as well... ================================ REASON #2: YOUR ORCHID WAS ALMOST FINISHED ITS BLOOMING PERIOD WHEN YOU PURCHASED IT ================================ This is also another very common reason why a newly purchased orchid will lose all its flowers shortly after you bring it home. Whenever you purchase an orchid that is in full bloom at the time of purchase , you have no idea how long the plant has already been flowering, and therefore how much blooming period is left. So in other words, if the variety you've just purchased is supposed to bloom for 30 days, you have no idea whether the plant was on Day 1 or Day 29 of its blooming cycle when you brought it home! And flower shops will usually try to heavily promote plants that are about to finish their blooming cycle... because

after all, it's tough to sell any flowering plant AFTER all the flowers have fallen off! :­) So here's how to avoid both of these problems next time you bring an orchid into your home: ================================ How to Avoid These Problems ================================ 1.) Instead of purchasing an orchid that's in full bloom, purchase a plant with buds yet to open. Orchid nurseries will refer to these plants as being "In Spike" or "In Bud" and you can usually ask them what varieties they currently have in stock. The nursery should also be able to tell you how long it should take for your plant to reach its next blooming cycle and produce flowers for you. And here's a tip: If you're looking to buy an orchid as a gift and you want it to be in bloom when that special person receives it, simply purchase a plant that is currently "in bud" and expected to bloom shortly before the special occasion... This way, the recipient will get to enjoy the ENTIRE blooming period of the orchid (or at least as close to the entire period as possible!) // 2.) By only purchasing plants "in bud" or "in spike" you also give your orchid a chance to stabilize itself in its new environment BEFORE it has reaches its next flowering stage. This means that you're less likely to suddenly lose all those gorgeous blooms due to rapid changes in your plant's new environment. // 3. Finally, only purchase plants from reputable nurseries that specialize in orchids. By now, you probably know that orchids have unique care requirements that make them unlike most houseplants.

And for this reason, it's important that you work with a nursery that specializes in and really understands orchids ­ especially when it comes to shipping and transporting plants, and here's why: For example, when an orchid is transported over a long distance in a non­temperature controlled environment, this can cause a great deal of stress on the plant ­ usually leading to "bud blast", but often resulting in even more serious damage which can be very difficult to recover from. So to sum things up, only purchase plants that are "in spike" or "in bud" and try to only purchase from nurseries that specialize in orchids! In tomorrow's newsletter, we'll start tackling another very common orchid problem: What it means if your orchid leaves are turning yellow, and what you can do about it. Stick around, because I think you'll be in for a few surprises... Until then... To Healthy, Vibrant Blooms! ­ Ryan "The Orchid Guy" :­) P.S. Having a problem with your orchid that you just want to get an answer to right away??? If you do, I think you might really benefit from our book :­) Why? Because while we try to offer as much help as possible in this series of free orchid tips, we're only able to tackle so much ­ and we can't cover every specific question. But in the book, we have an entire FAQ / Troubleshooting section where we answer over 70 of the most common orchid questions & problems. (With over 10,000 subscribers to our newsletter, we see the same questions asked by folks over and over again ­ and we've made sure to cover them all in the book.) And by the way, this FAQ/Troubleshooting Section is IN ADDITION to the main chapters of the book, which cover

absolutely everything you need to know about orchids in full detail. So even if you're just curious, won't you check it out? Here's the link: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Thanks for taking a look, and more tips to come! From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Sat May 28 2016 14:38:06 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ Are You Making These 3 Orchid Mistakes? ­ (05/28/2016) To: Ian Hi Ian :­) It's Ryan "The Orchid Guy" here again :­) In today's newsletter, we're going to talk about the "3 Most Important Things You Should Do Whenever Bringing a New Orchid Into Your Home" These critical tips can save you months of frustration down the road, simply by following a few key steps... So without any further delay, here they are: ======================================= 1.) ALWAYS QUARANTINE NEW ORCHIDS: ======================================= Always quarantine new orchids for at least 3 weeks when bringing them into your home to prevent them from spreading any pests or diseases to your other plants. Simply keeping them in a separate room, away from your existing collection during their 3­week quarantine period will do the trick. During this time, inspect your plant closely and regularly for signs of pests and disease ­ and don't forget to look under the leaves because this is where unwelcome insects will most often be hanging out. After 3 weeks, if all signs suggest that the plant looks healthy and pest­free, then you can consider it safe to move it with your permanent collection.

======================================= 2.) WHATEVER YOU DO, DON'T MOVE YOUR ORCHID! ======================================= Once you've determined where you're going to place your orchid in your home, orient the plant so that the flower spike is growing in the direction of the best light ­ and then leave it there. And fight ALL urges to move it again! Here's why: It's very important that you don't move the plant's orientation once the flower spike begins to grow. If you do, the spike will try to reorient itself to the best light again, and this is going to result in a twisted, distorted spike. Instead, wait until all the flowers have finished opening before moving your orchid again. The fact that the flowers have all opened will tell you that the spike has finished growing and it's now safe to move or reorient your plant as you would like! ======================================= 3.) STAY AWAY FROM DECORATIVE POTS ======================================= This may come as a shock to you, but you should NEVER place your orchid directly in a decorative pot, and here's why: Unlike most houseplants, orchid roots and leaves are EXTREMELY sensitive to the paints and glazes used in decorative pots... ...So sensitive in fact, that orchids can very easily experience a toxic reaction to the metal­based glazes found on most decorative pots today! Many retail flower shops these days will sell orchids directly placed in decorative containers because they look more attractive this way when on display. What you may not realize is that this is setting up your orchid for a quick demise!

Instead, you should always place your orchid in aplastic or natural clay pot first, and then position that container in a decorative pot for display purposes only. So, if you've recently purchased or received an orchid as a gift, check right now to make sure that your orchid was first potted in a plastic or natural clay pot. How does it look? Is your orchid okay? If not, you should repot the plant as soon as possible ­ and if you're not sure how to do that exactly, don't worry... because we'll be covering repotting in more detail in a later newsletter. Or you can learn how to repot an orchid right now by checking out our book: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html There's an entire chapter devoted to repotting, including a step­by­step photo demonstration of exactly how to repot an orchid! You get to *see* all my little "tricks" first­hand, which is not something that's covered in this newsletter and something that many readers have found extremely helpful. After all, watching someone who has done something many times before is really the best way to take the "guess­work" out of any process, isn't it? To learn more about the book, including how you can get $40 in free bonus materials for a limited time just by ordering today, simply click on the following link: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Thanks for reading... and many more tips to come! To healthy, vibrant blooms, ­Ryan "The Orchid Guy" :­) P.S. ­ Repotting aspects aside, if you'd like to have a comprehensive orchid reference guide(everything you really need to know about orchids, all in one place), then you will LOVE our Orchids Made Easy book. Would you kindly take a moment to look at the link below?

(The book is fully refundable if you have any problems whatsoever ­ and you're backed by our ironclad 6­Month 100% Money­Back Guarantee.) And for those of you who might be a little nervous about ordering something over the internet, please note that we provide simple step­by­step order instructions which assume no computer knowledge.) Anyway ­ here is the link again below: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Thanks again! From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Sat May 28 2016 14:42:49 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ Why Your Orchid Won't Rebloom: Reason #8 ­ (05/28/2016) To: Ian Hi Ian, In today's newsletter, we continue our countdown of The Top 10 Reasons Why Orchids Won't Rebloom... In yesterday's newsletter, we talked about the importance of recreating a "dry winter" for certain types of orchids. Remember, certain orchids (like Dendrobiums) require a dry period of several weeks during the winter months in order to "trigger" new bud formation... Okay, without further delay let's continue where we left off: THE 10 REASONS WHY YOUR ORCHID WON'T REBLOOM ================================ REASON #8: Certain Pests & Diseases.... ================================ If your orchid is plagued with any sort of pest or disease, then you have what we call a "stressed" plant on your hands. And just like when you or your family gets sick, your orchid is using EVERY LAST OUNCE of energy to fight off those foreign bugs!... (It simply has NO energy left to produce flowers...)

So to get your orchid to bloom again, the first thing you need to do is nurse your plant back to health :­) The topic of pests & disease naturally deserves more space than I can give it in this issue of your newsletter. (And we'll be talking about some effective ways to deal with a few common pests in a later newsletter.) But in the meantime, here are a few signs to watch out for: ­Yellow spots, holes, or "nibble marks" on the leaves or flowers ­Dark, soft, and rotting bulb/roots Do you see any of these signs on your orchid? Because if you've been having trouble getting your orchid to rebloom, and you SUSPECT there might be something plaguing your plant... ...then THAT'S where you should focus your attention. Orchid pests come in many shapes and sizes. And some of the more common problems include Aphids, Thrips, Mealy Bugs, & Spider Mites ­ just to name a few... If your orchid needs IMMEDIATE help, you should know that we have an entire chapter in our book devoted to fighting off orchid pests & disease. And here's the link to learn more: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html In tomorrow's newsletter, our countdown of The Top 10 Reasons Why Orchids Won't Rebloom continues... So stay tuned, because Reason #7 usually catches people by surprise... To Healthy, Vibrant Blooms! ­Ryan "The Orchid Guy" http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Sun May 29 2016 23:31:57 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ Yellow Leaves & Orchids... What Does it Mean? To: Ian Nagy Hi Ian,

It's Ryan "The Orchid Guy" here again :­) In the last few newsletters, we talked about one of the most common questions people have when things aren't going quite right with their orchids: // "What's going on when all the flowers suddenly fall off, and what should you do about it?" // If you'd like more info on that topic, please refer to our book, which tackles this question in much more detail: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Today, we're going to touch on another very common orchid problem, which we also cover in detail in our book ­ and one that you might be facing right now if your orchid is sick... And that is: "What's causing your orchid's leaves to turn yellow? And what should you do about it?" Every month, I receive dozens of emails from folks asking what it means if their plants have yellow leaves, and what they should do about it... One reader, Grace, recently wrote, "...If the leaves on my plant become yellow, what should be done?" Magda, another reader recently asked, "Ryan, if I start seeing yellow leaves, what does this mean???" If you've spent enough time around orchids, you've probably run into this same question at some point yourself... In today's newsletter, hopefully I can shed a little light on what's going on with your plant when the leaves are yellow, and leave you with a few pointers on what you can do about it :­) First, it's important to know that as part of the natural, healthy growth cycle of your orchid, the oldest leaves on your plant will yellow and eventually drop off. This is perfectly normal.

HOWEVER... if you're finding that young leaves are also yellowing, then you may actually have a problem on your hands. ================================ Why Orchid Leaves Turn Yellow... ================================ Younger leaves may become yellow if they're not exposed to enough light, or are lacking fertilizer. To make sure you're giving your orchid enough light...and the right type of fertilizer, be sure to refer to the care information that was provided with your orchid... (Or you can check out the sections in our book on "light" and "fertilizer" which are two topics that we cover in detail.) Orchids that are exposed to too MUCH light may also have yellow­light green leaves... HOWEVER, when orchid leaves are getting too MUCH light, the yellow­green color will usually be accompanied by round or oval brown­colored sunburn spots. (The presence or absence of these brown­colored spots is usually the best way to distinguish whether the problem is too little or too much light.) Now, if you find that your leaves are yellow... AND at the same time also droopy, soft, pluckered, and pleated... this is usually a sign of underwatering. Finally, if the leaves of your plant are mostly green, but have small, yellow "spots", then this is usually a sign of insect damage. If you suspect that your problem is insect­related, it's important to act fast, because if left untreated, certain insects can decimate your orchid (and spread to the rest of your collection)in as little as just a few days. If you've already ordered your copy of our book, refer to the section on "Pests & Diseases." You'll notice that the section includes photos of all the most common pests & diseases to help you identify your problem.

And for each problem, we provide you with both a commercial chemical solution, as well as effective "all­natural" remedies using substances that are100% environmentally friendly. If you haven't yet ordered a copy, and would like to do so today, please click on the following link now: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html So... to sums things up: The fact that your leaves may be yellow will only tell you part of the story. Understanding the context ­ what is it that's accompanying the yellow leaves ­ is essential to know whether your plant is simply experiencing part of its natural growth cycle... ...Or whether you have a problem that needs addressing right away. Don't worry, as you gain more experience, you'll find yourself developing a "sixth sense" for just this sort of thing :­) Until next time...More tips to come! ­Ryan "The Orchid Guy" P.S. To order your copy of the book today, that link again is: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Thanks for checking it out! :­) From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Mon May 30 2016 13:28:28 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ Why Your Orchid Won't Rebloom: Reason #8 ­ (05/30/2016) To: Ian Nagy Hi Ian, In today's newsletter, we continue our countdown of The Top 10 Reasons Why Orchids Won't Rebloom... In yesterday's newsletter, we talked about the importance of recreating a "dry winter" for certain types of orchids.

Remember, certain orchids (like Dendrobiums) require a dry period of several weeks during the winter months in order to "trigger" new bud formation... Okay, without further delay let's continue where we left off: THE 10 REASONS WHY YOUR ORCHID WON'T REBLOOM ================================ REASON #8: Certain Pests & Diseases.... ================================ If your orchid is plagued with any sort of pest or disease, then you have what we call a "stressed" plant on your hands. And just like when you or your family gets sick, your orchid is using EVERY LAST OUNCE of energy to fight off those foreign bugs!... (It simply has NO energy left to produce flowers...) So to get your orchid to bloom again, the first thing you need to do is nurse your plant back to health :­) The topic of pests & disease naturally deserves more space than I can give it in this issue of your newsletter. (And we'll be talking about some effective ways to deal with a few common pests in a later newsletter.) But in the meantime, here are a few signs to watch out for: ­Yellow spots, holes, or "nibble marks" on the leaves or flowers ­Dark, soft, and rotting bulb/roots Do you see any of these signs on your orchid? Because if you've been having trouble getting your orchid to rebloom, and you SUSPECT there might be something plaguing your plant... ...then THAT'S where you should focus your attention. Orchid pests come in many shapes and sizes. And some of the more common problems include Aphids, Thrips, Mealy Bugs, & Spider Mites ­ just to name a few... If your orchid needs IMMEDIATE help, you should know that we have an entire chapter in our book devoted to fighting off orchid pests & disease. And here's the link to learn more:

http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html In tomorrow's newsletter, our countdown of The Top 10 Reasons Why Orchids Won't Rebloom continues... So stay tuned, because Reason #7 usually catches people by surprise... To Healthy, Vibrant Blooms! ­Ryan "The Orchid Guy" http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Mon May 30 2016 14:36:19 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ Knowing How Much Water to Give Your Orchid... To: Ian Hi Ian :­) In yesterday's newsletter, we covered a few very important things you should do whenever you bring orchids into your home. And I can't stress enough how important it is to follow those 3 critical first steps. Now that you've established the solid foundation needed for your orchid to thrive, one of the first questions you might be asking is: >> "How much water should I give my orchid?" In today's newsletter we're going to tackle that very question, and in the process, I'll share with you a few of the watering tips from our book: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html When it comes to figuring out how much water you should give your orchid, there's bad news and good news. The bad news is unfortunately, there's no "one size fits all" answer. BUT... The GOOD NEWS is, I have a few little "tricks"(which you'll learn in a minute) that you can use to take virtually ALL guess­work out of the process next time you water!

But first, let's talk about the factors that play a role in determining how much you should water your plants. ================================ FACTOR #1: THE TYPE OF ORCHID ================================ Naturally, different orchid varieties have different watering requirements. So your first step is to determine what kind of orchid you have. In general, Miltonias, Phalaeonopsis, and Paphiopedlium orchids enjoy continuously damp conditions. Whereas Cattleyas and Dendrobiums need to dry out between waterings. So your first step is to determine what kind of orchid do you have? (If you're not sure, then you might benefit from the "Orchid Cheat Sheets" included free when you order our book. These cheat sheets outline the watering requirements for each of the most popular orchid varieties. AND each Orchid Sheet includes an "identification photo" of the variety to help you determine what type of orchid you have. To learn how you can get yourself the entire set of these sheets free, please check out the link at the end of this newsletter.) ================================ FACTOR #2: THE TYPE OF POT ================================ If you remember from yesterday, I mentioned that you should always use either a plastic or natural clay pot for your orchids. (And NEVER a glazed, decorative pot because the glaze can be toxic to orchid roots). Water evaporates much faster from clay pots than it does from plastic pots. So this means that an orchid potted in a clay container will need to be watered more often than that same variety potted in a plastic container.

So your second step is to determine what kind of pot are you using ­ Clay or Plastic? ================================ FACTOR #3: THE TYPE OF POTTING MATTER ================================ The type of potting matter you use will also factor into how much & and how often you should water. For example, moss stays wetter much longer than bark does. Therefore, an orchid potted in a potting mix mostly made up of moss would require watering less often than that same orchid potted in a potting mix primarily consisting of bark. So your third step is to determine what kind of potting matter are you using? One that holds moisture for a long time? Or one that dries out quickly? ================================ FACTOR #4: YOUR ENVIRONMENT ================================ Your orchid and potting matter will dry out more quickly when 1) the temperature is too hot, 2) the light is too bright, or 3) the humidity is too low. Also, don't forget about seasonal changes in your climate. In general you'll need to give your orchid more water in the hot summer months, than in the cooler winter months. So your fourth step is to determine what kind of environment is your orchid in? One that is hot, bright, & dry? Or one that is cooler, darker, & more humid? Once you've answered these 4 questions, this will help you determine exactly how much water to give your plant... But if you're like most people, by now you probably have MORE questions than when you first started reading! And this is where most orchid books and resources will leave you hanging... Understanding these 4 factors IS important... But at the end of the day watering your orchids doesn't have to be a mystery. After all, we're not talking about brain surgery here! :­)

So let me help you out by making things completely SIMPLE ­ and boil everything you need to remember down to my "5 Simple Watering Rules of Thumb." ================================ 5 SIMPLE WATERING RULES OF THUMB ================================ (#1) Potting material should never feel "soggy." (#2) But if the potting matter feels "bone dry" then it's time to water right away. (#3) Small pots (5" or less) need more frequent watering than big pots (6" or more). (#4) Clay pots will evaporate more and dry out more quickly than plastic pots of the same size. (#5) And when in doubt, err on the side of caution...OVER­watering is one of the leading causes of orchid death! Simple as that! // In the next few newsletters, we'll continue going through the basics of orchid care ­ more good stuff on watering, plus tips on temperature, light, fertilizer, potting, & more! (And I'll do my best to continue making everything simple & easy to implement ­ because if you're like me, I usually need an "idiot­proof" way of remembering what I'm supposed to do (just ask my wife) :­) Until next time, Ryan "The Orchid Guy" ­ ­ P.S. LET ME LEAVE YOU WITH ANOTHER WATERING TIP: Want a quick & easy way to know when your orchid needs more water? Next time you water your orchid, pick it up and take a mental note of how heavy it is when saturated with water. Wait a day or two and pick up your orchid again. Your plant will get lighter as more water evaporates and is absorbed by the plant.

Feel the difference? Keep a mental note of your orchid's "wet weight" and "dry weight". With a little practice, you'll know exactly when your orchid needs water simply by picking up the pot! ­ ­ P.P.S OKAY, ONE MORE TIP: Here's my "dirty little secret" of how I "cheat" when it comes to knowing whether to give my orchids more water (but you've got to promise not to tell anyone about this one) :­) Next time you go grocery shopping, pick up a package of those wooden bamboo skewers from your supermarket (the same kind you use to make kebabs on the barbecue). When you get home, stick a bamboo skewer in your potting material about 1­2 inches deep. Leave it there for about 5 seconds, and then pull it out. How does it feel? If it feels a little wet or cool to the touch, that means the potting material is still damp. And you can wait a bit before watering again. But, if the skewer comes out completely dry, then it's time to water right away. It doesn't get any easier than that! :­) ­ ­ P.P.P.S If enjoy these sort of tips, then I think you'll REALLY enjoy our book. Why? Well, because when my wife Laura recently did a count, according to our "official records" in addition to covering everything you need to know about growing orchids, we also managed to squeeze in 237 Tips, Tricks, & Orchid Home Remedies just like these in its pages! Which means... If you've been enjoying these tips, then you'll REALLY enjoy the book...

Because while we try to offer as much help as possible in our free newsletter, the book is well worth it, because this newsletter only scratches the surface of what we cover... AND we save the "juiciest" secrets for the book only :­) To order your copy of the book (and get $40 in free bonus materials when you order today ­ including the entire set of those Orchid Cheat Sheets I mentioned earlier), simply click on the link below: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Thanks for taking the time to check it out, and more tips to come! :­) From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Thu Jun 02 2016 23:26:26 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ Secret Orchid Home Remedy: Cinnamon ­ (06/02/2016) To: Ian Nagy Hi Ian, I have a great little home remedy for you today... If you remember from yesterday's newsletter, we talked about how you should trim back any diseased or damaged roots caused by over or under watering. Well, here's a great little tip for you: ...Next time you need to trim / cut back your orchid (and this tip applies whether you're trimming your orchid's roots, leaves, or the stem)... Apply a light dusting of *Cinnamon Powder* on the freshly cut areas of your plant. What does the Cinnamon do exactly? Cinnamon is a safe and all­natural fungicide, and applying a small amount on exposed areas your plant can protect it from fungus and bacteria! (And by the way, it's pretty powerful stuff...) I like to have some Cinnamon on hand whenever I bring home a new plant with a bit of damage, or whenever I am performing a bit of routine "surgery" on my plants :­)

================================ CINNAMON: Here's how to use it: =============================== 1.) simply wet the recently cut / broken area of the plant with a bit of water so the cinnamon will stick. 2.) Either sprinkle the cinnamon directly onto the affected area, or pour a small amount in a plate first, and then "dip" the tips of the affected areas into the plate of cinnamon. But whichever method you prefer, be sure to use Cinnamon sparingly ­ too much cinnamon can actually inhibit root growth if used excessively. So you won't want to use it on otherwise healthy, uncut roots. ...Oh! And by the way, whenever you do any sort of cutting, make sure that your tools (scissors, knife, shears, etc.) are sterilized before you begin. To healthy, vibrant blooms! Ryan "The Orchid Guy" :­) P.S. Wanna learn DOZENS of neat little home remedies like this? Then I think you'll LOVE our book, because it contains literally hundreds of word­of­mouth tips, tricks, and orchid home remedies that you won't find anywhere else :­) To get your copy today, visit: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Thanks for reading! :­) From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Sat Jun 04 2016 23:31:22 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ What's That Mysterious, Sticky Substance on Your Orchid's Leaves? ­ (06/04/2016) To: Ian Nagy Hi Ian, We receive a large number of emails from readers with specific questions about their orchids.

While we're not able to respond to everyone, we do our best to cover the most frequent questions at least briefly in our newsletter, and in full detail in our book. Here's an email that we received recently from Janet, one of our readers, followed by my response to her note: Janet's question... "Hello Ryan, I have a moth orchid given to me at Christmas, looked great, but now the buds are falling off and it has what looks like clear sticky glue­like substance forming on the stem. I have put the orchid and its pot into a glass pot with a rim into which the water is poured so that only a small amount of water can be taken up. Any advice please? ­Janet" My response to her note... "Hi Janet, What a fantastic Christmas gift :­) The sticky substance that you're finding on the stem is actually normal, and it's known as "honeydew". You can simply remove it with water. As far as your other questions ­ it's tough to sum up in a quick email, but the buds falling off sounds like what's known as "bud blast" which is when the buds fall off before they have a chance to open. This is typically due to rapid changes in the plant's environment ­ including temperature and watering frequency. First thing you should do is get your orchid into a "groove" with a regular watering schedule and provide it with proper light, humidity, and light conditions ­ we have a Moth Orchid "Cheat Sheet" with this info that you might find useful. In terms of watering, make sure the potting matter is not sitting in water ­ you want to ensure proper drainage. As a general rule of thumb for moth orchids ­ the potting matter should be damp, not soaking... but also not bone dry. Hope this helps, and sorry to have to keep it brief! Please feel free to check out our book at:

http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html The proceeds help cover the cost of running our free orchid tips newsletter :­) To healthy, vibrant blooms! Ryan "The Orchid Guy" P.S. If YOU have a specific orchid question that you'd like to have answered, check out our website: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html to see if it's already covered in our book, otherwise send me an email and we'll try our best to touch on it in a future newsletter, and in the next edition of our book :­) Thanks again!! From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Mon Jun 06 2016 10:14:37 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian, Instant Orchid Info ­ (06/05/2016) To: Ian Hi Ian :­) Welcome! And thanks for signing up for this newsletter all about Orchids! I want you to know that a real live person – not just an automated mailing robot reads these messages. And I DO love when people send me pictures, comments, and questions about their Orchids. While I always read all such responses, and generally find a way to address them in upgrades to our book and series of free orchid tips ­ I hope you'll understand that I'm NOT able to respond personally to each and every message. Anyway, I want to thank you again for requesting my free series of Orchid Tips ­ you can expect to find an extremely useful and valuable tip or secret in each and every email you receive. The Orchid Tips you'll be getting are all derived from my book "Orchids Made Easy", a comprehensive guide to growing and caring for your orchids. You can learn more about the book at any time by visiting:

http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html ONE LAST THING before we get started ­ please take a moment to add the following email address to your address book: "Ryan@OrchidsMadeEasy.com" ...Otherwise you might miss some of the valuable secrets we'll be covering together in the next couple days... OK! Let's get RIGHT TO IT! Here are your **FIRST CRITICAL TIPS** to get you started right away, and we'll kick things off by covering a few ORCHID POTTING BASICS: If you're like most people starting out with orchids, the thought of having to choose the right container...the right potting material...and THEN having to repot your orchid (without killing it) can be a *bit* overwhelming. Yes, it's true that orchids DO have special, unique potting requirements that make them unlike most houseplants... BUT it's nothing that you can't master quickly and easily. And over the next few days, I'll walk you through everything you need to know about potting, repotting, & transplanting, so you have nothing to fear :­) So let's just dive right in... The first step repotting your orchid is knowing how to recognize the tell­tale signs it's time to repot, and here they are in no particular order. ================================ 3 SIGNS IT'S TIME TO REPOT YOUR ORCHID: ================================ 1.) The roots are overflowing over the edges of your plant's container 2.) You've noticed that the potting matter no longer drains properly... In other words, the potting matter stays really soggy. 3.) And finally, the orchid itself has grown over the edge of the pot. Pretty straight­forward, right?

Now, once you've determined whether in fact your orchid needs to be repotted, the next step is to understand the best time of year to actually repot your plant. ================================ WHAT TIME OF YEAR IS BEST TO REPOT: ================================ Most orchids should be repotted in the *spring* months once the plant starts to produce new growth(signs include when you start to see new roots or a new shoot begin to creep out.) At the same time, however, you should also DEFINITELY wait until your orchid has finished flowering before repotting. (I live in the southern United States, and typically repot most of my plants in the month of May.) Cattleyas, for example (one of the most commonly grown orchids) are best repotted... 1) Shortly after they've flowered, 2) Once the plant has reached the edge of the pot, and 3) Only after the new roots are *at least* 1 inch long. And when it comes to deciding when to repot your plant, here's something else to consider: While spring is typically the best time of year to repot, never wait TOO long to repot your plant. Repotting an OVERGROWN orchid is going to be more difficult for you, because when working with a plant that is much too large for its pot, you haveto be EXTRA careful not to break off roots and new growth when you remove the plant from its current pot. So if you have a plant on your hands that's EXTREMELY overgrown (as long as it's not currently in bloom) I usually recommend repotting immediately even if Spring is still a long ways away. So, does that all make sense so far? Nothing too difficult, right? Great.

Because those were just a few quick tips to get you off to a good start. (And we haven't started getting to the GOOD stuff yet...) Over the next several weeks I'll be sending you some of the valuable tips and secrets you'll find in "Orchids Made Easy" ­ a little at a time... We'll start with some of the critical information worth focusing on right away. ================================ Here's a Sample of What's Coming Up Next ================================ * How to choose the right pot and potting material for your orchid ­ PLUS exactly how to repot your orchid, explained step­by­step! * The Top 10 Reasons Why Orchids Don't Rebloom, and what you can do about it... PLUS tricks you can use to get your orchid to rebloom like clockwork, year after year! * Little­known, Secret Home Remedies ­ including Listerine, Cinnamon, Mayonnaise, Candle Wax, & More! ­ Find out how every­day household items can supercharge your orchid's growth! * PLUS absolutely everything you need to know about orchid care ­ how much to water, how much light, how to save your sick or dying orchid, what to do when your orchid stops blooming, and much MUCH MORE! Stick around, because in tomorrow's newsletter, I've got something that you won't want to miss. Until then... To healthy, vibrant blooms! ­Ryan "The Orchid Guy" :­) P.S. Of course, you can get all the tips & secrets right now in our book... (including all my "juiciest" primo tips ­ which are NOT covered in this newsletter...) The book is available in either downloadable, ebook format, or as a "real" hard copy book sent to you in the mail.

AND, for a limited time, you'll receive 2 FREE BONUSES with your book when you order today. To order or simply learn more, visit: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Thanks again! :­) From: "Ryan 'The Orchid Guy' :­)" Date: Mon Jun 06 2016 10:15:21 GMT+0530 (IST) Subject: Ian ­ Instant Orchid Care Info (06/05/2016) To: Ian Hi Ian :­) Welcome! And thanks for signing up for this newsletter all about Orchid Care! I want you to know that a real live person – not just an automated mailing robot reads these messages. And I DO love when people reply with pictures, comments, and questions about their Orchids. So I'd love to hear from YOU! :­) While I always read all such responses, and generally find a way to address them in updates to our book and my orchid tips email newsletter ­ I hope you'll understand that I'm NOT able to respond personally to each and every message, okay? Anyway, I want to thank you again for requesting my free series of Orchid Tips ­ you can expect to find an extremely useful and valuable tip or secret in each and every email you receive from me... The Orchid Tips you'll be getting are all derived from my book "Orchids Made Easy", a comprehensive guide to growing and caring for your orchids. And you can learn about the book anytime by visiting: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html

ONE LAST THING before we get started ­ please take a moment to add the following email address to your address book: "Ryan@OrchidsMadeEasy.com" ...Otherwise you might miss some of the valuable secrets we'll be covering together in the next couple days... OK! Let's get RIGHT TO IT! Here are your **FIRST CRITICAL TIPS** to get you started right away. Taken together these tips can quite literally EXTEND YOUR ORCHID'S BLOOMING PERIOD BY MONTHS over the course of the year, simply by taking a moment to follow these simple steps... ======================================= 3 SIMPLE TIPS FOR LONGER­LASTING BLOOMS: ======================================= 1.) Beware of Ripening Fruit! As soon as your orchid starts to bloom, move it to a location in your home at least 10 feet away from any ripening fruit. Here's why: When fruit ripens, it releases ethylene gas, and ethylene gas can cause the flowers on your orchid to fade... and many times even collapse! It's essentially the same thing that happens when "one bad apple spoils the whole bunch..." That one bad apple can spoil your orchid too! Also, never spray household air freshener or aerosal cans of any kind near your orchids for the same reason ­ they're FILLED with that very same ethylene gas that you want to desperately avoid! 2.) Bring Your Orchids Inside! Are you keeping your orchids outdoors? Because, once you start seeing flowers, it's time to BRING THEM INSIDE! Here's why: As soon as orchid flowers come in contact with bees or other flying insects, they'll begin to die almost immediately after they're pollinated.

And yes, sometimes this can happen just a few days after flowers appear! Keeping your orchid indoors and AWAY from pollinating insects can extend your plant's blooming period by WEEKS. 3.) Keep Your Orchids Nice And Cool... Crank up your Air Conditioner, and LOWER the temperature a few notches! Did you know... You can also extend the blooming period of your orchids by introducing them to *slightly* cooler temperatures ­ not above 75F (24C) ­ once they begin blooming? It's true! This is a bit cooler than what most orchids prefer when they're not in bloom, and going through a "growth spurt" period. But by lowering the temperature a bit, you're essentially slooowwwing down the aging process of your plant while it's in bloom ­ which means many more mornings where you get to wake up, grab a cup of coffee and admire those gorgeous flowers! But don't go overboard... You don't want to send your orchid into a "deep freeze"... Just a few degrees cooler than your orchid's recommended temperature range is all you need to achieve your desired outcome :­) Does that all make sense so far? Good. Because those were just a few quick tips to get you off to a good start. And this is just the tip of the iceberg... Over the next several weeks I'll be sending you some of the valuable tips and secrets you'll find in "Orchids Made Easy" ­ a little at a time... We'll start with some of the critical information worth focusing on right away ­ and we'll begin with the most important Basics of Orchid Care. =======================================

Here's a Sample of What's Coming Up Next... ======================================= * First Steps: Bringing Orchids into your Home... * MORE Tips to Strrrretch the blooming period of your orchid even further... * The Top 10 Reasons Why Orchids Don't Rebloom, and what you can do about it... PLUS tricks you can use to get your orchid to rebloom like clockwork, year after year! * Little­known, Secret Home Remedies ­ including Listerine, Cinnamon, Mayonnaise, Candle Wax, & More! ­ Find out how every­day household items can supercharge your orchid's growth! * PLUS absolutely everything you need to know about orchid care ­ how much to water, how much light, how to know when it's time to repot, what to do when your orchid stops blooming, and much MUCH MORE! Stick around, because in tomorrow's newsletter, I've got something that you won't want to miss. Until then... To healthy, vibrant blooms! ­Ryan "The Orchid Guy" :­) P.S. Of course, you can get all the tips & secrets right now in our book... (including all my "juiciest" primo tips ­ which are NOT covered in this newsletter...) The book is available in either downloadable, ebook format, or as a "real" hard copy book sent to you in the mail. AND, for a limited time, you'll receive 2 FREE BONUSES with your book when you order today. To order or simply learn more, visit: http://www.OrchidsMadeEasy.com/OrchidBook.html Thanks again! :­)