2 major forms of fabric designs◦ Structural design

Building in texture or interest into fabrics Weaving & knitting

◦ Applied design Adding color

Weaving (def) – the procedure of interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles to each other◦ Warp – lengthwise (up and down)◦ Weft (or filling) – crosswise (side to side over

and under the warp yarns) ◦ Selvage (def) – will not ravel – turns at edge to

go back the other way◦ Grain – direction of yarn in fabric

Bias grain – diagonal True Bias – 45-degree angle

3 basic weave types:◦Plain

Simplest & most common Variation – basket weave denier Think of a tennis racket – lengthwise and crosswise

pass over and under each other◦Twill – a yarn in one direction “floats” over

two or more yarns in the other direction – dominant yarn is seen on the surface of the cloth creating a diagonal rib pattern

◦Satin – long yarn floats on the surface in one direction – go over 4 or more yarns and under one – creates shiny fabric surface

Variations of 3 weave types can create:◦ Stripes, checks, plaids, and other patterns

Jacquard loom◦ Machine that weaves large, complex designs

Pile fabrics◦ Have loops projecting from surface◦ Terry cloth

Nap◦ Raised from the surface

(def) Looping yarns together Gauge

◦ # of stitches, or loops, per inch Sportswear, sweaters (natural flexibility

and built in stretch to fit the body comfortably)

Types◦ Tube form◦ Flat knitted fabrics◦ Page 120 - Characteristics

Single knit – single needle◦ Formal wear, lingerie, & T-shirts

Double knit – 2 needles◦ Dresses, slacks, suits, & coats

Purl Knits – crosswise ridges – reversible◦ Waistbands, neckbands, cuffs

Sweater knits – loosely knitted Textured knits

◦ Permanently crimped, coiled, curled, or looped

Warp Knits◦ Fastest way◦ Stable, durable

Tricot◦ Most familiar warp knit◦ Does not run or ravel◦ Clingy dresses, shirts, & lingerie

Raschel knits◦ Limited stretch, lots of texture

(def) made from a compact web of fibers, not yarns, held together with a combination of moisture, heat, chemicals, friction, and/or pressure.

Compact web◦ Use

Moisture, heat, chemicals◦ No grain line◦ Disposable◦ Collars & cuffs◦ Vinyl◦ Artificial suedes

Laces and Nets Braided Fabrics

◦ Also called plaiting◦ Shoelaces, trims

Bonded Fabrics◦ Fusible web

Iron on patches Quilted Fabrics

Apply colors, designs, surface treatments Converters

◦ Greige to finished fabrics Bleaching Dyeing Printing Adding finishes

Chemicals Remove natural coloring Remove impurities

◦ Oils, waxes, Fade products

◦ Stone wash

Giving color to textiles Colorfast

◦ Not fade or change Can launder, dry cleaning, sunlight, perspiration,

rubbing

Fiber ◦ Before spun into yarn◦ Natural – stock-dyed or bale-dyed◦ Manufactures

Solution-dyed Yarn

◦ Before wound onto spoils◦ Stripes, checks, plaids

Piece Dyeing◦ After woven or knitted◦ Least expensive, fastest

Garment◦ Usually knitted◦ Dyed with requested color and immediately

shipped

Colors, designs, patterns to surface of garment

Overall prints◦ Across all the fabric

Directional prints Border prints Even or balanced plaids

◦ Ex. checks

Uneven plaids Several basic methods

◦ Roller Printing◦ Screen Printing◦ Rotary printing – combo of roller & screen◦ Heat transfer◦ Ink-Jet Printing – cheaper◦ Flocking – with adhesive

Wearing advantages◦ Ease of care◦ Page 127 – fabric finishes◦ Most are permanent◦ Durable

Temporary ◦ Last until washed

Renewable◦ Can be replaced

Many types but all fall into 2 categories◦ Mechanical

Affects sizes and appearances Ex. Pre-shrunk Pressing & pounding – flat harder surface

◦ Chemical Mercerization

Ex. Crease-resistant, stain resistant Permanent press

Resist wrinklet