Truly Love Egypt Zamalek

February 2015 Issue 9

The Opera House

The Cairo Tower

The Gezirah Palace

Truly Love Cuisines: Sharkaseya recipe

PLEASE TURN ON YOUR SOUND

Contents4 EDITOR’S MESSAGE Royal Zamalek! 6 FEATURED STAFF Basma Amer 8 TRULY LOVE NATURE The trees of Zamalek;

cosmopolitan fauna

12 TRULY LOVE DAY ACTIVITIES Never bored in Zamalek;

sports, culture, arts, history and much more!

18 SCRAPBOOK PAGE

12 The Opera House

8 The trees of Zamalek

The song that is playing is Elsood Eyoono by Mostafa Amar

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Contents 20 TRULY LOVE HISTORY The Gezirah Palace; a royal

past and a luxurious present

24 TRULY LOVE SHOPPING Whatever your heart

desires!

28 TRULY LOVE NIGHTLIFE Zamalek’s truly eclectic

nightlife! 32 TRULY LOVE INVESTING Only top notch will do!

34 TRULY LOVE CUISINES

Sharkaseya: the origin and the method

36 UPCOMING ISSUE

20 Gezirah Palace

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34 Sharkaseya

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Watch our website launch video! Please note that very soon, all our ezines will be placed exclusively on our website www.sarkiss.net

EDITOR’S MESSAGE Our mission is to deliver the most accurate, up-to-date information in

order to show different kinds of visitors what may interest them.

principal shareholder was Belgian constructor, Monsieur Leon Rolin, who cons truc ted apartme nt buildings like ‘Immeuble Rolin’ opposite the Gezirah Sports Club. Egyp to lo g is t He r r Ludw ig Borchardt lived on the island. Sir Lee Stack and Major General Sir Spinks Pasha were amongst those who lived in the Sirdaria which later became the Egyptian Officers Club. During WWII, Zamalek became home to platoons of multinational generals, foreign kings and heads of state, such as the King of Greece. Thomas Cook had docks for boats going to Luxor and Aswan where the Sofitel is today. Gezira Sports Club was launched by the British in 1883. The Aquarium Grotto Garden was landscaped by Captain Stanley Flower and constructed by MM. C o mba z & Du mp i ly. T he Equestrian Club was inaugurated in 1938 by King Farouk. Om Kalthoum, the greatest Arab female singer, moved into her villa in Zamalek in 1936. After her death in February 1975, the villa was sold to a construction company that tore it down and built an apartment and office building with a small museum exhibiting her photos and personal belongings. A statue of her (see cover) was erected opposite the building.

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Ideas and content are copyright and property of Sarkiss Publicity and Advertising Registered in Egypt: 64958 truly-love-egypt@sarkiss.net

Manager, Editor and Designer Amani Adel Sarkiss Freelance Writers Aisha Abdelwahab Basma Amer Amal Sarkiss Photography Basma Amer: p6 & p7 Amal Sarkiss: p34 Mohamed Nabil Hammad: p36 Internet: Map p4 Amani Sarkiss: all other photos

Manager, Editor and Designer Amani Adel Sarkiss

Zamalek, one of Cairo’s 20 islands (counting using Google Earth), has always been one of Cairo’s most affluent neighborhoods and a popular spot for both Egyptians and expats. Wandering around just looking at the architecture is enjoyable. Many palaces are still intact but most have been turned into embassies, schools and hotels. Its history began in the mid 1800s when, according to 1873 maps by geographer Mahmoud Falaki Pasha, Zamalek was united to the mainland of Giza. However, during annual high flood, three islands appeared. Silt and mud merged them into one fertile island, transforming it into a giant nursery, planned by Gustave Delchevalerie; with one million exotic plant species, 75 species of animals and 150 species of birds. Royal families moved to Zamalek after Khedive Ismail built his summer palace there. The first British army camp in Egypt was built on the island. The camp later became a British sports club. Several real estate companies developed Zamalek. Only one investor was Egyptian, Mohamed Mahmoud Khalil. Another investor was Mr. Skynder, the architect of buildings like ‘Zamalek Mansions’ near the Anglican Church. Belgian companies constructed Abou al-Ela Bridge and ran the tramway that crossed Zamalek. The B e l g i a n c o mp a n y S o c i e t e Immobiliere de Zamalek, whose

Traveling is more than just a fun

activity for Basma; it is a chance for her

to really explore the world she lives in.

After graduat ing from Loyola

University Chicago, she decided to

move to Cairo, Egypt and began

working as a teacher. She believes

working with children has been a

blessing. “Children are the real go-

getters in this world and they have,

definitely, rubbed off on me,” she says.

In addition to teaching, Basma is

passionate and enthusiastic about many

things: she loves animals and wishes a

home for every stray dog and cat in

Egypt. She tutors in her free time,

draws, writes, reads, dives, watches

shows, paints and travels, of course.

She also hangs out with friends and

family, and, sometimes, attempts to

play Play Station. She hopes to be a pro

some day, but admits she has a long

way to go.

Basma has many dreams and her

mother has ignited many of them. She

looks up to her mother and, because of

her, aspires to be many things. Basma

Basma Amer

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aspires to become a novelist; writing

children’s books, and pursue a career in

child psychology. She plans to continue

writing and do a PhD in child psychology,

so that she may strive to make her dreams

come true.

And finally, she thanks Truly Love Egypt

for giving her the opportunity to begin

making her dreams come true.

Basma Amer

A painting by Basma Amer

TRULY LOVE NATURE By Basma Amer

Zamalek, a kingdom of beauty, was once a majestic botanical

sanctuary to marvel in and a luxurious getaway for royalty.

The sea of evergreen was magnificently nestled in the arms of

the River Nile; the island and the river so brilliantly

demonstrated each other’s exotic persona. Khedive Isma’il

Pasha was amongst the first to make the island the place for

his home. Today, Khedive Isma’il Pasha’s lavish garden

continues to live on as the Marriott Hotel garden. However, for

the rest of Zamalek, there are still remnants of the botanical

sanctuary.

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One of the most eye-capturing remnants is

the long forgotten trees of Zamalek. Nature

lovers, you will appreciate what it means to

come across an Indian Banyan tree that was

planted almost one hundred and fifty years

ago as you casually turn a corner from a

main street. This luxurious Indian tree can be

found on different parts of the island,

displaying its long aerial roots. The most

amazing one is near the Cairo Tower, right in

the middle of the road. Another brilliant one

stands in one of the side streets behind All

Saints’ Cathedral.

Another beauty is the Delonix Regia, the

Royal Poinciana, which is a gorgeous

addition to the collection. This Madagascar

native tree captivates individuals with its

striking orange and red flowers and is,

actually, quite abundant in Egypt. This

flamboyant tree creates great shade and a

cool haven from the sun.

And, of course, what would this spectacular Cont.

garden have been without the Phoenix

dactylifera? In other words, the long date

palms that remind us of the sun and a relaxing

time near the waters. There are also places

that have been gently adorned with Plumeria

Alba, West Indian jasmine, native to Central

America and the Caribbean.

In addition to the South American and Asian

elegance mentioned above, are other treasures

from around the world: the Sycamore Fig and

Lantana camara from South Africa, the

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Eucalyptus from Australia and Bauhinia

Variegata from Asia.

There is no doubt that there are exotic plants

from different parts of the world still rooted

in Zamalek and are waiting for you to

discover their existence. So just take a casual

stroll around the island and expect to be

amazed by the splendor of its trees.

By Basma Amer

Zamalek, an elite area in Egypt which houses many embassies, a variety

of high-end outlets and cafes, is one of the most action-filled centers.

However, during your daily strolls you will come to the realization that

there is not only modern entertainment on the island, but a deeply rooted

history engraved with great diligence and finesse in the architecture

surrounding you. Zamalek is, simply, the canvas on which the British,

Pharaonic, Ottoman and Islamic heritages chose to display their artwork.

TRULY LOVE DAY ACTIVITIES

like a bit of music and the arts, then make sure

you visit the Opera House. It is one of the

more modern buildings in Zamalek -with a

difference. The architects managed to capture

the soul of Islamic architecture within its

modern structure. The Opera House is an

amazing cultural center with a variety of

performances, such as the Nutcracker. On the

first floor of the main hall is the Opera

Museum. Its display encompasses costumes

and jewelry of previous performances as well

paintings and sculptures by famous artists.

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The buildings, gardens and clubs, which were

left by past heritages, are still being used

today. So while you are fixing your schedule,

include a nice relaxing morning at one of

Zamalek’s prominent sports clubs. These clubs

are a great place to take your children and

enjoy a nice relaxing day away from the city

mania. If you are in your energetic moods, try

out the activities they house. They have many

facilities for golf, swimming, tennis, horse

riding and more.

If you aren’t in the sportive mood and you feel

Cont.

There are also two galleries where you could

purchase paintings and sculptures by

contemporary artists. One of these galleries

is inside the Music Library. Even though

visitors are not allowed into the actual

library, you can take lessons in musical

instruments there and you can attend -free of

charge- the various concerts that feature the

best works of their students. The Palace of

Arts, right opposite the Music Library, is

open only when there are international

exhibits or contests.

15 Cont.

Another place that must be seen is the Cairo

Tower. The tower replicates the design of a

Pharaonic lotus flower and is over 180

meters tall. If you suffer from vertigo, you

can still enjoy the beautiful panoramic view

of Cairo’s skyline while dining in the

revolving rooftop restaurant. On a clear day,

you will see as far as the Pyramids of

Sakkara.

If you are a lover of beautiful architecture,

Zamalek is an open-air museum with palaces

that are used as schools, faculties and hotels.

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The Marriott Hotel was, actually,

Khedive Ismail Pasha’s palace and the

Islamic Ceramic Museum was, once upon

a time, Prince Amr Ibrahim’s palace. So

take a tour throughout the island, fill that

photo album with memories and, most

importantly, enjoy the experience and the

scenery while walking along the Nile.

Tips: Sport Clubs: Must pay entrance fees. Opera House: Must dress formally when attending a ballet or a live concert. You cannot book tickets online, so check the online schedule and buy your ticket at the Opera House in advance. Cairo Tower: Working Hours: Winter: 8 am – 12 am Summer: 9 am – 1 am Non-Egyptian entrance fees: LE70

SCRAPBOOK PAGE

All Saints’ Cathedral

By Aisha AbdelWahab TRULY LOVE HISTORY

Cont.

the word Zamalek, they instantly think of the modern part of it, which basically consists of cafés, restaurants and shops to die for. Yet deep down inside when they hear it, they can somehow still picture all of the historical and magnificent monuments there. How so? Simple! Zamalek might seem like a modern place, but that is only because many of the historical monuments there have been remodeled or reconstructed to be used by

Walking in Egypt feels like traveling back to different eras. For example, when you visit the pyramids, you are basically walking on the same land pharaohs walked on thousands of years ago. However, the Pyramids are not the only monuments to represent this; different locations and destinations in Egypt hold hundreds of antique and vintage monuments. An existing proof of this fact is undoubtedly Zamalek. When people hear

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today's population, while keeping some of the beauty of the past. The Gezirah Palace (a.k.a the Marriott nowadays) is one of the many historical buildings in Zamalek with a particularly interesting story. It was first hastily built by Khedive Ismail to host Empress Eugenie in September 1869, during the inauguration of the Suez Canal. The empress was, by far, not the only royalty that was accommodated in the palace; the Prince and Princess of Wales and Emperor Franz-Josef of Austria-Hungary stayed there as well. The palace also held several events. One of the most memorable was Khedive Ismail's three sons simultaneously

holding their weddings there. The nuptials lasted for 40 days! The construction of the palace took many years, mainly because many architects were involved in the building of the palace at various construction phases. The project's principal architect was the Germanic Julius Franz Pasha though. The other architects were of various nationalities. It is said that, in 1890, the Gezirah Palace and its annexes occupied most of central Zamalek and that its gardens reached what we know today as ‘Hadiket Al Asmak’ (Aquarium Grotto Garden in English). Due to some governmental issues and laws, the

palace terrain has been majorly reduced to what it is nowadays. When it was finished, the palace had a majestic and luxurious interior design with thousands of breathtaking rooms and wings. Nowadays, the palace still holds all of its luxury; with a magnificent façade, lavish interiors and renovated antique furniture. Throughout its history, the palace was passed on to different owners; the former Khedive Ismail and his three wives sold the Gezirah Palace properties (including its annexes and gardens) to Paul Draneht Pasha and Commander Oblieght who transferred the property and all of its assets

to the Gezirah Land Company. It was then passed on from one owner to another until it was owned by Habib Lotfallah Pasha to finally being owned by the hotel chain company, Marriott. It is truly amazing and intriguing how such a building has seen many events and many important faces. This construction will forever hold within its walls history and secrets of the past, yet no secrets need to be revealed because just enjoying the palace's existence is all the history you will ever need to travel back in time. Quote of the month: "The more you know about the past, the better prepared you are for the future" - Theodore Roosevelt.

TRULY LOVE SHOPPING By Aisha AbdelWahab

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This month's destination screams many things. Some of them have to be modern, luxurious, extravagant and maybe out-of-this-world makes it on the list as well. Zamalek is simply the place to be when it comes to shopping, because just as each city or location is assigned to a certain function or role in Egypt, this one is assigned to the money spending, the tummy feeding, the good time having and the party seeking.

Cont.

I don't know about you but when I walk in Zamalek, I feel like I travelled into an antique or vintage European city, a place that mixes Paris' coffee shops and restaurants, London's shops, maybe a bit of Victorian inspired buildings here and there, all whilst maintaining Egypt's all too famous feelings of home and comfort. And if I am asked if anything is better than a walk in this magnificent place, I would say no. When I said ‘money spending’, I was not joking. However, you will not regret spending a few extra pounds as you will receive great service and great quality products in return. In Zamalek, it is guaranteed that the amount of money you will pay will equate to the quality of the things you buy. It is as simple as that! So to start our Zamalek tour, we will look at what matters the most to some of us; clothes. Clothes are said to represent who you are, but what if who you are is not what you are wearing now? Maybe that plain shirt and those

washed-out skinny jeans do not complement your crazy personality! Easy! Walk through the streets of Zamalek and designer shops will be all lined up waiting for you to define your personality and let it shine brightly, whether it is through your 100 watts smile or the hundreds of clothes you just bought. I am not a big fan of budget limits but if you have one, do not think of it as a bad thing. It is rather good because it will be hard to stop spending. Most of the things you will lay your eyes on will be the things you want to buy. Chances are you will turn into a shopaholic for a day, but that is okay. Everybody secretly wants Rebecca Bloomwood's closet anyway! Moving on to the other interesting stuff such as yummy food and yummier drinks... I do not know about you, but a shopping trip is never complete if some tonguegasmic food is not included, and in Zamalek it is tonguegasmic food you shall eat. Want some sophisticated food

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to match your Gucci bag? Then be my guest! You feel like having a pizza (Let's be honest… Who doesn't?). Then Italian pizza you will get. You feel like having some good ol' oriental food? You will find those and more for that hungry tummy of yours. As for the drinks, I did mention that it smells like Paris when you walk by a coffee shop. Need I say more? It does not end here though. A shopping spree would only be an enjoyable one if you are a 100% sure that whatever pops into your mind is available and within a 5 minute walk. This may include pharmaceuticals, groceries, basic day-to-day needs, etc. You will stumble upon a pharmacy that will most probably be right next to a supermarket or a fresh fruit and vegetable stall selling fresh produce at reasonable prices. To add true delight to your experience, you can easily give yourself, your house and your pets a makeover. Whilst there are endless fashion

shops, tailors and hair salons (because pampering yourself is mandatory) at your service, you will also find home decor and home improvement centers and shops, such as carpet menders, wacky tools shops and even those stores with those amazing decors that you always promise yourself you are going to buy but never actually do. Vets and pet shops are endless, because buying your Yorkshire a matching red sweater is an obligation. But the cherry on top has to be the numerous art galleries on the island where you can enjoy and buy paintings by contemporary Egyptian artists, securing this location on your top 10 list for shopping, dining, partying, hanging out, possible dates (Valentine’s Day is approaching anyways!) [Insert any other activity]. And to end this article with sophistication: "Keep your heels, head and standards high!" - Coco Chanel.

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TRULY LOVE NIGHTLIFE By Amani Sarkiss

Zamalek is one of the few islands in the world where you could spend days without having to leave it. After spending your day shopping, marveling at its trees and taking photographs of all the amazing buildings, your feet may hurt but your soul will long for more. Nothing is better for the soul than some culture. There are plenty of places in Zamalek where you can experience culture and arts at night. The Opera House with its eclectic collection of ballets, exhibitions and live concerts is definitely one of the top places. The famous culture center under the western end of 15th May flyover is another lively venue for culture and the arts. Their daily program is an excellent collection of poetry reading, short films, live concerts, exhibits etc. From the outside, the place looks quite

famished, there are plenty of restaurants to choose from; everything from shrimp sandwiches on the go to fast food restaurants and Egyptian, Thai, Chinese, Italian, French, Austrian and just about any cuisine you wish to try. This also includes nutrition bars and the like. On 26th of July Street, there is a pizza place that also sells fresh ham, bacon and other different pork cuts. Restaurants in Zamalek are everywhere you go; on main streets, side streets, along both the eastern and western Nile River banks. Some float on the Nile itself but are stationary. Others have a two hour program of folkloric dance and lunch or dinner while you take a trip on the Nile. Each moving restaurant has its own system but they are usually either a la carte or open buffet. For the latter, whatever price you are quoted will not include the drinks. Quenching your thirst in Zamalek is as easy as relieving your hunger. There are plenty of fresh juice shops and in one of them, on 26th of July Street, you may also run into Egyptian actors who were well-known in the 60’s. This place also sells baked goodies. However, you will find many other places in Zamalek to make your sweet tooth happy. Zamalek is full of

small but when you enter, you will find there are several large halls that have been sound proofed to ensure no city noise disturbs the activities within. Their monthly guide can be collected at the door free of charge. Ticket prices vary according to the activity. Do remember that some of these activities require knowledge of Arabic so do ask before buying your tickets. Another venue is the theater on 26th of July Street. They hold live plays in which famous Egyptian actors star. However, all plays are in Arabic so if you know the language, you will enjoy learning more about the Egyptian culture; what makes them laugh and what makes them cry. If culture is the furthest thing from your mind and you want to burn the midnight oil, take pleasure in visiting one of Zamalek’s numerous pubs. You will be amazed at their variety and style. Most pubs can be found on side streets. However, many of the hotels also have excellent pubs. Most pubs have the feel of British pubs and many have their own signature cocktails. So go on a pub crawl with your friends and enjoy the flavors you know and the ones you do not. If pub food is not for you and you feel

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worry! Zamalek has something for everyone! Imagine the city lights reflecting off the River Nile’s small, almost non-existent waves. Imagine fresh air brushing against your face and lightly playing with your hair. Imagine the sound of sails as they swell from the wind pushing against them. Imagine the feel of textured wood against your palms. Maybe you are holding the hand of your loved one at the same time. That’s right! There is nothing more tranquil than a Felluca ride at night. And the presence of that special someone makes it even better. Fellucas can be found on both the eastern and western banks of the Nile. Agree on prices and duration before you step onto the boat. So whether you love culture, art, dancing, drinking, eating or romancing, Zamalek’s nightlife will fulfill your quest.

bakeries, chocolate shops and cupcake stores and many of them have seating areas in case you prefer to sit and enjoy their fragrant atmosphere. Some also double as cafés and serve a variety of delicious coffee based and tea based drinks. If you are like me and you love dancing your heart out, there are a few places in Zamalek. One of them is a discotheque at one of the hotels. Another good one is on a stationary boat floating on the eastern bank of the Nile. One of the best things about these is that they play different kinds of music from different genres and decades. So whatever kind of music you fancy swaying to, you are sure to hear some of it while you are there. But not all of us want music blasting in our ears and in our soul. There are those who prefer the quiet serene part of life. Do not

TRULY LOVE INVESTING By Amani Sarkiss

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This section is dedicated to small and medium sized investors looking for possibilities to invest their money from afar or move to a country where sunshine, sea and relaxation are a way of life.

Although Zamalek is a small island, residents can find most things just round the corner. However, some creative out of the box ideas may guide you to investments that are both needed and profitable. Even though there is no cinema in Zamalek, the residents might not appreciate one on their island. Zamalek residents tend to be descendants of the elite families long ago. While they may understand why people from other regions in Greater Cairo send their children to schools in Zamalek, the opening of a cinema that would attract everyone to Zamalek might just be a tad too much for them. However, if you are set on the idea of a cinema, make it exclusive and top notch. That would most likely appease them. Another form of recreation and one that would be appreciated by the residents is a bowling alley. Zamalek residents spend much of their leisure time at the sports club on the island. It is great for them to socialize with those they know, yet they do get bored and a first-rate bowling alley would also attract the right kind of crowd to Zamalek. While most residents are descendants of the elite long ago, many have gone through economic crises. If you are into restoring palaces, turning them into museums and introducing tours of the island’s historical buildings, you would be initiating a new kind of tourism in Egypt and you would definitely have the support of the residents. However, such an endeavor needs to be studied carefully to ensure steady return on your investment. An additional out of the box idea is an on-island transport. Many of the residents would love to just leave their cars parked and take a comfortable form of transport to go to the club or do their shopping. This method of transport would remain only on the island. If done correctly, this would help ease traffic congestion on the island, resulting in the support of the residents.

Despite the fact that almost every product you can think of can be found on the island, there is still plenty of room for providing services. Most residents are bilingual, but many feel the need to learn a third language. An exclusive center for them would be ideal. The center could provide language lessons as well as lessons in music and the different arts. Helpers are always needed around Zamalek so opening a catering service to cover birthdays and other kinds of parties and events would do well in Zamalek. This service would also go down well in nearby areas such as Mohandiseen and Agouza, providing you with more customers. A further service you could provide is first class cooks and cleaners. Most of the residents have their own but many could do with a service that provides these for a day or over the weekend. As with the catering service, this can easily cover nearby areas too. Whatever business you decide to start in Zamalek, if you ensure it is as exclusive as possible and of excellent quality, you are sure to profit. Zamalek residents are loyal to those who provide the best service at the best possible price and they will recommend you to their friends, making your business success go at a much faster rate than expected.

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Regulations and Safety Issues

1. Do not drink tap water.

2. Do not eat uncooked vegetables unless you are dining at a fine restaurant or a well-known fast food chain.

3. Traffic in Cairo is unpredictable. A drive may take 10 minutes one day and 1 hour the next. Plan accordingly.

4. Although there is no real reason for it, it’s safer to keep your passport at your hotel and move inside Cairo with a copy.

TRULY LOVE CUISINES By Amal Sarkiss

Sharkaseya

Sharkaseya is a decadent dish, made with poached chicken breasts served with white rice, covered in a delicious, creamy walnut sauce. The dish is well known among Egyptian families of Turkish descent and was probably a favorite of royalties of the Mohammed Ali Dynasty. The name of the dish suggests that the Turks got it from their Circassian neighbors who fled to Turkey during the Circassian-Russian war in 1864, and from there it was brought to Egypt.

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Preparation time Cooking Time Serves

10 min Approx 30 min 4

Ingredients:

For chicken ½ kg (or 1lb) deboned chicken breast 3 cups water 2 cubes chicken stock OR ½ large chicken (breast with bones and skin, which are removed after cooking) 1 medium onion 2 cardamom pods 1 bay leaf 3 cups water Salt and black pepper to taste

For walnut sauce 2 slices white toast, crust removed ½ cup cold water ½ cup walnuts 2 cups chicken stock ¼ tsp nutmeg 2 tsp crushed garlic (about 6 large garlic cloves) 2 tsp dried coriander 1 tbsp butter For decoration Paprika, green coriander, chopped walnuts or your preferred combination.

Directions: For chicken In a pot, poach the deboned chicken breasts in water with chicken stock added. Simmer for 30 minutes until cooked. Remove chicken breasts and use the broth for the walnut sauce. OR Poach chicken in boiling water. Add onion, salt, black pepper, cardamom and bay leaves. Let it cook for 20-30 minutes. Remove chicken, debone and remove skin. Strain the broth to use for the walnut sauce. For walnut sauce: Soak toast slices in cold water, drain excess water, then add to walnuts in food processor and mix until smooth. In a saucepan, add the chicken stock gradually to the walnut bread paste and stir over medium heat until consistency is thick and creamy. Let it simmer for 30-40 minutes. If the sauce is too thick, add more broth. In a small pan, melt butter and add crushed garlic and the coriander. Stir fry for 3 minutes. Add the garlic butter to the sauce. Stir well and add the nutmeg. Add salt to taste. Presentation: Arrange the chicken over or next to cooked white rice and pour the walnut sauce over them. Keep aside some of the sauce for extra helpings. This dish can be made with veal as well.

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