zagat travel capsule chicago

ShoppingSears, Marshall Field’s, Montgomery Ward –Chicago practically invented the departmentstore and mail-order catalog. Today, exclu-sive designer boutiques, major retailers andspecialty shops teem with tourists andlocals in search of everything from theheight of fashion to the lowest of prices –whether your taste runs to jeans or jewels,lingerie or laptops. Water Tower Placestacks tiers of stores while the Mag Milestrings them down Michigan Avenue (culmi-nating at the tony Oak Street intersection).The Merchandise Mart overflows withwholesalers, designers’ showrooms and furniture dealers.

When to VisitIt’s tempting to tout the temperate seasons:spring’s blossoms, and fall’s crisp air andwaning crowds. But with winter comes ice-skating in Millennium Park, cozy fire-places in romantic restaurants and a wealthof cultural events. And heat and humiditynot withstanding, the summer sizzles withbeach activities, outdoor cafes for primo people-watching and open-air celebrations, including the Chicago Blues Festival(www.chicagofests.com). As for the city’s lauded sports teams, various major leagues trade off year-round.

Call AheadChange is constant in Chicago. While we’vedone our best to provide accurate phonenumbers, addresses and other factualdetails, it’s always wise to call ahead beforemaking plans.

ZAGAT TRAVEL CAPSULE

at www.transitchicago.com. Taxis are easy to flag, or you can slow it down with a romantic carriage ride (try the stand atMichigan Avenue and Chestnut Street).Metra commuter trains connect the city with the ’burbs (www.metrarail.com).

SightseeingSee Chicago sprawl from the Sears Towerand Hancock Building observation decks, orfrom a lake cruise (launching off Navy Pierand by the bridge at Michigan and Wacker).Take a Chicago Architectural Foundationwalking or bus tour (www.architecture.org),zero in on a specific neighborhood(www.chicagoneighborhoodtours.com) or check out the Chicago HistoryMuseum’s El tour (www.chicagohistory.org).Freebies include guided tours from theChicago Office of Tourism (pre-register at www.chicagogreeter.com) and city trolleysbetween Museum Campus, popularDowntown destinations and train stations (egov.cityofchicago.org).

Welcome to Chicago, a city brimming with so much culture it’s known as America’s “Third Coast” – with a GreatLake instead of an ocean. While there is no shortage of recreation in The City That Works, this capsule guide isdesigned to give you the facts needed to make the most of a brief visit, including advice on where to eat, drink,play and stay from thousands of savvy locals, whose input forms the basis of the reviews on the followingpages. To make your visit manageable, we’ve focused mainly on Chicago proper, especially River North, andincluded links to helpful websites.

CHICAGO

ZAGATSURVEY • www.zagat.com

ArrivingMost Chicago visitors arrive at bustlingO’Hare International Airport, 17 miles north-west of the city. From there, the ChicagoTransit Authority (CTA) offers 24-hour BlueLine train service to Downtown. Less hecticand a little more central (10 miles southwestof the city), Midway International Airport isserviced by the CTA Orange Line. Hate tofly? Amtrak trains regularly pull in and out of Union Station, a short cab ride toDowntown, and major interstate highwaysinclude I-90/94, I-290 and I-55.

Getting OrientedChicago’s distant past as a glacial lake bot-tom coupled with its modern street-gridsystem make the city a walker’s paradise.All you need to remember is that streetaddresses march upward as you travel outward from the intersection of State(North–South) and Madison (East–West)streets. The business district and a revivedtheater scene rub shoulders in this centralLoop neighborhood; small art galleries viewith the more commercial, colossalMerchandise Mart in River North; and thehotels, attractions and retailers of theMagnificent Mile stretch across Streetervilleand the Gold Coast. Lost? Easy landmarksto spot are Lake Michigan to the East, theLoop’s Sears Tower (once the world’s tallestbuilding, now third) and Streeterville’s JohnHancock Building.

Getting AroundThough Chicago is a stroller’s city, non-foottransportation abounds. The CTA operatesthe world-famous El’s eight train lines (actu-ally only partially “el”evated), as well as anetwork of buses, with schedules for both

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Ratings & SymbolsHours: serves after 11PM

closed on Sundayclosed on Monday

Credit Cards: no credit cards accepted

Ratings are on a scale of 0 to 30. Cost (C) reflectsour surveyors’ estimate of the price of dinner withone drink and tip. Surveyor comments are in quotes.

For newcomers or survey write-ins listed without ratings, the price range is indicated as follows:

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CELEB CHEFS F D S C

Alinea =1723 N. Halsted St. (bet. North Ave. & WillowSt.), 312-867-0110; www.alinearestaurant.comAstronomic scores support the “sheer genius” of chef-owner Grant Achatz and the “astonishingflavors” of his “fabulous” “experimental” NewAmerican cuisine at this Lincoln Park “thrill ride”that “engages all of your senses” and “expandsyour concept of fine dining”; the space is “lovely,understated and serene”, the nearly 700-bottlewine list is “superb” and the “polished service”(ranked No. 1 in Chicagoland) is near “perfect”;be prepared, though, as this “surreal” “journey”will be “loooong” and “ungodly expensive” –though “worth it”; N.B. open Wednesday–Sundayfor dinner only.

Blackbird =619 W. Randolph St. (bet. Desplaines &Jefferson Sts.), 312-715-0708;www.blackbirdrestaurant.comMake sure this “fabulously polished” WestLoop “classic” is on your list for “pure tastesin a pure space”, featuring “local, organic andunique ingredients” in “exquisite” NewAmerican cuisine that “makes you proud to befrom Chicago”; the setting may be “stark”(“the whole white on white thing”), the “tablescramped” and the “din” “astonishing”, butthere’s “plenty of eye candy”, plus “consum-mately professional” service and “one of thehighest-quality wine selections in the city, at

best [prime] beef known to man”, this “manly”Gold Coast “granddaddy” (tops among Chicagosteakhouses) is a “candy store for carnivores”complete with the “show-and-tell” presentationcart, “huge sides” and “soufflés meant to beshared”, a “great wine list” and a “professionalstaff”; some raters reckon it’s “resting on its lau-rels”, but a well-fed majority insists this “classact” is “worth” its “break-the-bank prices.”

Tru =676 N. St. Clair St. (bet. Erie & Huron Sts.),312-202-0001; www.trurestaurant.com“Art and food meet and really, really like eachother” at this jackets-required Streeterville“temple of excess” that “amazes” with “pro-gressive, daring” New French plates plus som-melier Scott Tyree’s “divinely inspired” 1,400-bottle wine selection, all borne by a virtually“flawless” staff within a “stark, simple” settingsporting an “original Andy Warhol” and “a love-ly little tuffet for Madame’s handbag”; “stickershock” aside, it’s a “magical experience” that“will become a lasting memory”; N.B. the Foodscore was tallied when founding chefs RickTramonto and Gale Gand were still at the helm.

Wildfire 159 W. Erie St. (bet. LaSalle & Wells Sts.),312-787-9000; www.wildfirerestaurant.comThis “insanely popular” Traditional Americansteakhouse from the Lettuce Entertain Yougroup keeps carnivores “coming back” with “hearty Midwest-sized portions” from a“crowd-pleasing menu” of “awesome wood-fired” fare (“juicy” steaks and chops), “delicious chopped salad” and “great martiniflights” in a “classy”, “clubby” “’40s-style”setting; salivating surveyors swear it’s “worththe wait” (“even with reservations”), but wetblankets rank this “noisy” “madhouse” “reallyrather ordinary, just on a grand scale.”

MOST POPULAR F D S C

Charlie Trotter’s =816 W. Armitage Ave. (Halsted St.), 773-248-6228; www.charlietrotters.com“A religious experience” “worth a mortgage pay-ment” awaits at this Lincoln Parker, the “epitomeof [New] American gastronomy” andChicagoland’s Most Popular restaurant, wherecustomers are “dazzled” by “brilliant” chefCharlie Trotter’s daily changing menu (with “fan-tastic pairings” from an “exceptional wine cellar”)and “cosseted” by a “masterfully courteous andknowledgeable” staff; a few find the “formal” feel“churchlike” and the whole experience a bit “pre-cious”, but most maintain it’s “absolutely sub-lime”, especially if you “get a reservation at thekitchen table”; N.B. jackets required, and beaware that it’s only open on some Mondays.

Frontera Grill = ~445 N. Clark St. (bet. Hubbard & Illinois Sts.),312-661-1434; www.fronterakitchens.com“Top-of-the-line Mexican [food] with a focus onfresh ingredients” comes courtesy of “culinaryhero Rick Bayless” at this River North “treasure”with a “national reputation”; “bold, bright” and“somewhat raucous”, it’s “less expensive andmore casual” than its “refined big brother”,Topolobampo, with the same “superb wineselections” and “great margarita-tequila menu”,but some say “service can be spotty when it’sbusy – which is always.”

Morton’s, The SteakhouseNewberry Plaza, 1050 N. State St. (Maple St.),312-266-4820; www.mortons.com“Still the standard” for “scrumptious slabs of the

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Red-sauce Italian joints, deep-dish pizza and Chicago-style hot dogs formthe low-end but lip-smacking foundation of Chicago’s immensely varieddining scene. From there, the sky’s the limit, from cool places to kick backto temples of molecular gastronomy and beyond: steak, sushi, NuevoLatino and more small plates than you can shake a chopstick, fork, fingeror piece of naan at. Just don’t expect to eat any foie gras – it’s offChicago’s menu. Regarding tipping, 15–20% is customary.

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all price ranges”; N.B. the Food rating maynot reflect the addition of Mike Sheerin (exNYC’s WD-50) as chef de cuisine, taking overthe kitchen reins from owner Paul Kahan.

Everest = ~One Financial Pl., 440 S. LaSalle St., 40th fl.(Congress Pkwy.), 312-663-8920; www.everestrestaurant.comFinanciers feel an affinity for this “romantic”,“formal” “expense-account haven”, “still at its peak” thanks to Jean Joho’s “delectable”New French–Alsatian cuisine, an “exemplarywine list”, “totally professional service” and “a breathtaking view” from “the top of the[Loop]”; a recent face-lift may appease fanswho felt that the “nouveau riche” decor was“stuck in the ’80s”, though it may do little forthose more concerned that the “attitude” “is loftier than the location.”

Spiaggia One Magnificent Mile Bldg., 980 N. MichiganAve., 2nd fl. (Oak St.), 312-280-2750;www.spiaggiarestaurant.comExpect a “peak dining experience” at this“honed-to-perfection”, “luxury” Gold Coasterboasting a “sumptuous” setting with “spectacu-lar views” of the Michigans (both Lake andAvenue), chef Tony Mantuano’s “sublime”,“incomparable Italian” cuisine, an “excellent”,“extensive wine list” and “superlative service”;most maintain it’s “one of the few places wherethe high price tag is worth it”, though a segmentof surveyors submits that the staff’s “snooty” andthe “small portions” are “overpriced” (served onlyin the cafe, “lunch is a lot less expensive”); N.B.jackets required, jeans not allowed.

Spring ~2039 W. North Ave. (Damen Ave.), 773-395-7100; www.springrestaurant.netShawn McClain’s “incredible creations” of“perfectly prepared” New American seafood“with a slight Asian slant” inspire acolytes toask “is it impolite to lick the plate?” at this“hip” Wicker Park place that’s “as fresh andexciting as the season it’s named after”; the“quietly elegant setting” “in a converted bath-house” is “beautiful and peaceful”, the service

is “polished but not overwhelming” and there’san “outstanding wine list”, all of which adds up to“a wonderful experience” – so if you don’t have a“special occasion, just come up with one.”

SCENES F D S C

Carnivale 702 W. Fulton St. (Halsted St.), 312-850-5005;www.carnivalechicago.com“Fun, loud and colorful describe the room,clientele and staff” at this wild West Loop“warehouse” where “exciting” Nuevo Latinomenu items meet “enormous”, “eye-popping”environs, “another amazing visual master-piece” from Jerry Kleiner (Marché, Red Light);it’s “the best party in town”, even if it’s “expensivefor what it is”, “service could use a little work”and the noise level can be “almost painful.”

DeLaCosta 465 E. Illinois St.(bet. Lake Shore Dr. &McClurg Ct.), 312-464-1700; www.delacostachicago.comHot Miami chef Douglas Rodriguez (OLA onOcean, OLA Steak) makes his Midwesterndebut with a Nuevo Latino supper-club sizzleron the river in River North serving creative cui-sine paired with six styles of sangria and licen-tious libations including ‘poptails’ (cocktailpopsicles); the 12,000-sq.-ft. venue showcas-es multiple high-style environments includinglounges, a ceviche bar and a ‘solarium’ over-looking Ogden Slip.

Nine =440 W. Randolph St. (Canal St.), 312-575-9900; www.n9ne.com“To see or be seen, that is the question” at this“chic”, “sleek”, “slick” and “sexy” West Loopsurf ’n’ turfer where even those not into the“trendoid bar scene” admit the “inventive andbeautifully served food” and “dramatic, archi-tecturally stunning facility” (with a centralchampagne and caviar bar on weekends)make the “pageantry”, “glitz factor” and “highprices” “worth the trip”; it’s also a “greatpower-lunch spot” and “convenient to theCivic Opera House”, though grudging graderssay it doesn’t quite “live up to the hype”; N.B.the post-Survey return of original chef MichaelShrader may outdate the above Food score.

Republic Pan-Asian Restaurant & Lounge 58 E. Ontario St. (Rush St.), 312-440-1818;www.republicrestaurant.usModern Asian dining on a grand scale hits

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SRiver North with this hip, architectural spot divided into a swanky main-floor bar/lounge,upstairs dining room and separate sake bar;the kitchen explores various regions, from makito Chinese standards, hot pots to curries, withtwo levels of omakase (three- or seven-course)taking a tour of the whole menu; N.B. theladies’ room, tiled to the nines and outfittedwith a shell-shaped sink, is worth a peek.

Rosebud, The 1500 W. Taylor St. (Laflin St.), 312-942-1117;www.rosebudrestaurants.com“Consistently good”, “old-fashioned” Italian is served “by the barrel” at this “crowded”,“touristy”, “high-energy” “classic Chicago”“legend” in Little Italy that’s “a real trip back in time” – complete with “Sinatra playing in the background”; service runs from “pleasant”to “surly”, though, and peeved paesani posit“piggy portions don’t hide that the food” is a“throwback to the old days before Americansknew what real Italian food is.”

CASUAL F D S C

Harry Caray’s 33 W. Kinzie St. (Dearborn St.), 312-828-0966;www.harrycarays.com“Named after the beloved former Cubsannouncer”, this slice of “baseball junkie heaven” where “you could spend hours lookingat all the memorabilia on the walls” serves“plentiful plates of flavorful” Italian steakhousefood (“they don’t serve steaks here – theyserve cows”) in an “upscale sports-bar” setting; unimpressed umpires, though, flag it as “average” “for the money.”

Heaven on Seven = XGarland Bldg., 111 N. Wabash Ave., 7th fl.(Washington Blvd.), 312-263-6443;www.heavenonseven.com“Tourists” and regulars relish the “reliable”“rajun Cajun” and Creole food served “in good portions” at this “Mardi Gras-ish” bastionof “spicy” “done right”, featuring “more hotsauces than Imelda Marcos had shoes” and a “nonstop party”; some suggest it’s “the bestyou can get in Chicago”, though purists pur-port it “can’t compete with real New Orleansfood”, say “service can be hit-or-miss” andcontend it’s “coasting on its rep.”

Courtesy of Spiaggia

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Lou Malnati’s Pizzeria 439 N. Wells St. (Hubbard St.), 312-828-9800;www.loumalnatis.comStanding “supreme”, this River North link in a “local chain” boasts a “cult following” of“addicts” who relish its “ridiculously good”,“real Chicago pizza” – both the “decadentdeep-dish” and the “even-better thin-crust”version – and “love the butter crust”, “pure,simple sauce” with “chunks of tomato” and“thick cheese”; still, its reign at the top of thepie charts “of the known world” (and the localcompetition) is “not undisputed”, with someciting “inconsistent service” as a drawback.

Lou Mitchell’s X565 W. Jackson Blvd. (Jefferson St.), 312-939-3111“Welcome to the City of Big Shoulders” at this“landmark” West Loop coffee shop, a “piece ofold Chicago” serving a “great” American break-fast still “in the skillet” as well as other “honestdiner food” from the crack of dawn to mid-after-noon; the retro setting’s “kitschy”, the “veteranservers can be insulting” and the “cash-only [pol-icy] is a pain” – and “prepare to wait in line” (withfree “doughnut holes and Milk Duds to nosh on”).

Manny’s =1141 S. Jefferson St. (Roosevelt Rd.), 312-939-2855; www.mannysdeli.com“The local color is laid on as thick as the cornedbeef” at this beloved South Loop breakfast-and-lunch “institution”, an “anachronistic” “steam-table cafeteria, with sandwiches made to order”,peopled “by old-timers, new wavers, tourists andpoliticians” enjoying a taste of “true Chicago” –so go ahead and “just yell out what you want” tothe “countermen, who are caricatures of them-selves” (and now you can pay by credit card).

BEST OF RIVER NORTH F D S C

Aigre Doux 230 W. Kinzie St. (bet. N. Franklin & WellsSts.), 312-329-9400;www.aigredouxchicago.comThe married cooking duo of Mohammad Islamand Malika Ameen – he’s savory, she’s sweet– whose culinary pedigree most recentlyincludes LA’s Chateau Marmont, helms thissophisticated, borderline-expensive RiverNorth New American restaurant (with adjacentbakery) offering a smart, well-priced wine list;located in the former Pili.Pili space, its linear,spartan-chic dining room is lit intimately byrows of dangling exposed bulbs.

Chicago Chop House 60 W. Ontario St. (bet. Clark & Dearborn Sts.),312-787-7100; www.chicagochophouse.comA “heavy hitter” “in a city that knows meat”, this“quintessential Chicago steak joint” and “ol’boys club” in River North “is rich in tradition –and you can taste it in the food” (including“wonderful prime rib”) not to mention see it inthe “historical” setting with tin ceilings, “oldChicago photos” and other “memorabilia”, aswell as a “great bar area with old-time drinksmade the way they should be made”; P.S. “menwith white collars” like to “expense this one.”

Nacional 27 =325 W. Huron St. (Orleans St.), 312-664-2727;www.nacional27.netIt’s “a carnival for the palate” at this RiverNorth “hot spot” with “breathtaking decor” that serves “Latin libations” and a NuevoLatino “smorgasbord” of chef RandyZweiban’s “inventive”, “well-prepared” fare,including “creative tapas”, “from every countrysouth of the Rio Grande”; P.S. sedate sorts“beware”: its usually “quiet”, “cool vibe” givesway “later in the evening” Thursdays–Saturdays“as the main floor turns into a dance floor”,with “salsa that doesn’t come in a bowl.”

Shaw’s Crab House 21 E. Hubbard St. (bet. State St. & Wabash Ave.),312-527-2722; www.shawscrabhouse.com“Plain, simple fresh fish” and “surprisinglygood sushi too” make this River North “stand-by” a “Chicago seafood tradition”, with “pro-fessional” service and “a choice between for-mal and casual dining rooms” (many patrons“prefer the informality” of the “oyster bar, withits great selection, throwback atmosphere”and “live music”); still, others opine that itssomewhat “pedestrian” profferings have “gotten rather pricey.”

Xel-Há = ~710 N. Wells St. (Superior St.), 312-274-9500;www.xel-ha-yucatancuisine.comNamed for the Yucatán region that inspires thecooking of chef Dudley Nieto (ex Adobo Grill,Zapatista), this River North midpriced Mexoffers 60 tequilas and counting, plus a nice little vino list; having changed little from itsprevious incarnations as Meztiso and SWK,the front room houses a long mahogany bar, while the back is a cozy oasis surrounded by wine-storage walls.



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NotableMentionsMOST POPULAR F D S CGibsons Bar & Steakhouse 1028 N. Rush St. (Bellevue Pl.), 312-266-8999; www.gibsonssteakhouse.com

Maggiano’s Little Italy 516 N. Clark St. (Grand Ave.), 312-644-7700; www.maggianos.com

mk 868 N. Franklin St. (bet. Chestnut & Locust Sts.), 312-482-9179; www.mkchicago.com

NoMI Park Hyatt Chicago, 800 N. Michigan Ave. (Chicago Ave.), 312-239-4030; www.nomirestaurant.com

Topolobampo 445 N. Clark St. (bet. Hubbard & Illinois Sts.), 312-661-1434; www.rickbayless.com

CELEB CHEFSArun’s 4156 N. Kedzie Ave. (bet. Belle Plaine & Berteau Aves.), 773-539-1909; www.arunsthai.com

Avenues Peninsula Hotel, 108 E. Superior St. (bet. Michigan Ave. & Rush St.), 312-573-6754; www.chicago.peninsula.com

Naha 500 N. Clark St. (Illinois St.), 312-321-6242; www.naha-chicago.com

North Pond 2610 N. Cannon Dr. (bet. Diversey & Fullerton Pkwys.), 773-477-5845; www.northpondrestaurant.com

one sixtyblue 1400 W. Randolph St. (Ogden Ave.), 312-850-0303; www.onesixtyblue.com

SCENESBin 36339 N. Dearborn St. (Kinzie St.), 312-755-9463;www.bin36.com

Bravo Tapas & Lounge 2047 W. Division St. (Damen Ave.), 773-278-2727

Japonais 600 W. Chicago Ave. (Larrabee St.), 312-822-9600; www.japonaischicago.com

RL 115 E. Chicago Ave. (Michigan Ave.), 312-475-1100;www.rlrestaurant.com

Tavern on Rush 1031 N. Rush St. (Bellevue Pl.), 312-664-9600; www.tavernonrush.com

CASUALBerghoff Cafe 17 W. Adams St. (bet. Dearborn & State Sts.), 312-427-7399; www.berghoffcafe.com

Coco Pazzo Cafe Red Roof Inn, 636 N. St. Clair St. (Ontario St.), 312-664-2777

de cero 814 W. Randolph St. (bet. Green & Halsted Sts.), 312-455-8114; www.decerotaqueria.com

Gage, The 24 S. Michigan Ave. (Madison St.), 312-372-4243; www.thegagechicago.com

Hop Häus 646 N. Franklin St. (Erie St.), 312-467-4287

BEST OF RIVER NORTHCoco Pazzo300 W. Hubbard St. (Franklin St.), 312-836-0900; www.cocopazzochicago.com

Crofton on Wells 535 N. Wells St. (bet. Grand Ave. & Ohio St.), 312-755-1790; www.croftononwells.com

Fulton’s on the River 315 N. LaSalle St. (Wacker Dr.), 312-822-0100; www.fultonsontheriver.com

Keefer’s20 W. Kinzie St. (Dearborn St.), 312-467-9525; www.keefersrestaurant.com

Le Lan 749 N. Clark St. (Chicago Ave.), 312-280-9100; www.lelanrestaurant.com

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Ratings & Symbols

Credit Cards: no credit cards accepted

Ratings are on a scale of 0 to 30. Cost (C) reflectsour surveyors’ estimated price of a typical singledrink. Surveyor comments are in quotes.

dwelling neighborhood denizens sip wine andnibble on hand-tossed pizza, while stylish sin-gles come to get in the mood for dinner dateson nearby Randolph Street.

J Bar James Hotel, 610 N. Rush St. (Ontario St.),312-337-1000; www.jameshotel.comAt this new lounge located in the luxe James Hoteljust steps from the Mag Mile, mixologists fashion‘deconstructed’ martinis accented with olive lollipops; a couture-clad clientele stops in early

DANCING A D S C

crobar1543 N. Kingsbury St. (W. Weed St.), 312-266-1900; www.crobar.comHave a “wild time” dancing to “ear-pounding”house and electronica and dodging “pickuplines flying through the air” at this recently“redone” “mega”-roost for “international DJstars” in Lincoln Park; “the crowd’s deter-mined” by the night’s theme; if a few lamentthat it’s become “toned down from yester-year”, more feel it’s still an “awesome”“Chicago institution.”

Rednofive 440 N. Halsted St. (W. Hubbard St.), 312-733-6699; www.rednofive.comThe “music kicks” at this renovated “late late-night hot spot” in the West Loop, where“great” DJs spin house tunes in the down-stairs lounge and hip-hop and anthemsupstairs; but the “staff has too much attitudeto make things fun”, and in the wee hours,“wannabes” who “really need to be seen”dilute the dance floors.

Transit 1431 W. Lake St. (N. Ogden Ave.), 312-491-8600; www.transit-usa.com“Experience some true clubbing” beneath theEl in the West Loop at this “dance-all-night”place whose multiple “spacious” rooms andoptimal “sight lines” appeal to patrons who“tend to be physically fit and don’t mindshowing it off” to “hip-hop and techno” beats;the only detractions are that both parking andgetting cabs can be a hassle.

LIVE MUSIC A D S C

Double Door 1572 N. Milwaukee Ave. (Damen Ave.), 773-489-3160; www.doubledoor.com“It’s rock ’n’ roll, baby”, as well as “blues, folkand hip-hop” at Wicker Park’s “quasi-leg-

endary” “midsize” music venue that books“anyone from up-and-comers to major acts”;“between the smoke, disorganized” layout andlack of seating, “this ain’t the place” to “hangout” and “chat”, but they do “have a knack forfinding the next big thing.”

Empty Bottle X1035 N. Western Ave. (bet. Thomas & W.Cortez Sts.), 773-276-3600; www.emptybottle.com“Bands rock and lungs blacken” at this “forreal” Ukrainian Village venue that books “rag-ing, introspective” rock, punk, electronica, hip-hop, jazz and country acts from “all over theworld”; though the decor recalls that of a“garage” and it’s very “smoky”, there’s “not abad spot in the house for seeing the stage”,and who can beat the “fabled” drink prices and“wonky, friendly” staff?

Metro X3730 N. Clark St. (bet. N. Racine Ave. & W.Waveland Ave.), 773-549-4140; www.metrochicago.com“You can feel the history when you walk in thedoor” to this “gritty” Wrigleyville “stalwart” forunderground music where diehards “catchretro/alternative/punk bands” as well as “main-stream acts warming up for major tours”; “drinkprices are steep” and the staff’s “attitude doesnot work”, but the sound system is cranked upclear and “loud so bring earplugs.”

LOUNGES A D S C

Fulton Lounge 955 W. Fulton Market (bet. Morgan &Sangamon Sts.), 312-942-9500; www.fultonlounge.comThe up-and-coming Fulton Market area in theWest Loop boasts this straight-outta-Milanlounge; doors open onto a patio where loft-

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After sundown, Chicago brims with high-energy possibilities. You’ll findlavish lounges offering bottle service (and plenty of eye candy), chill winebars (catering to both seasoned oenophiles and eager-to-learn novices)and hopping music venues where jazz, indie rock and blues acts takecenter stage. In this late-night landscape, there’s a wee-hours haunt forevery imbiber.

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NotableMentionsand enough mirrors to keep narcissists mes-merized; but just as it’s “dripping in luxury, youneed to be dripping in money” to partake here.

Pops for Champagne 601 N. State St. (Ohio St.), 312-266-7677;www.popsforchampagne.comThis 25-year-old Lakeview venue may havemoved to a new River North nest, but it stillserves the same winning combination of jazzand bubbly; upstairs at the onyx bar, patronscan pair one of 120 champagne varietals withraw seafood and dessert, but once drinkersdescend to the basement lounge, they’ll findthat the regular live music needs no accompa-niment; N.B. the next-door Pops Shop is dedi-cated to sparkling sips.

BEST OFRIVER NORTH A D S C

Cabaret Cocktail Boutique 15 W. Hubbard St. (State St.), 312-245-3100;www.cabaretchicago.comBottle service goes burlesque at this throw-back River North nightspot where a blinding,1,000-bulb marquee hints at corset-wearingservers, sinful beverages and scantily cladcabaret dancers performing every Friday night;svelte, scene-seeking sorts settle in to theswanky, crystal chandelier–accented dancefloor, while VIPs head straight to a back roomlined with ruby-red mirrors.

Enclave 220 W. Chicago Ave. (bet. N. Franklin & WellsSts.), 312-654-0234; www.enclavechicago.com‘American Beauty’ refers to the rosepetal–graced martinis at their lips, but it mightas well describe some of the belly-baringbabes slinking through this lofty, bi-level RiverNorth lounge; check out the photo-ops fromits chunky leather chairs or get down to hip-hop lite on the dimmed dance floor, whiledesigner-denim denizens den themselves inthe circular, curtain-swathed bottle area.

RiNo 343 W. Erie St. (Orleans St.), 312-587-3433;www.rinochicago.comYou won’t find a mechanical bull at this late-night River North saloon; instead, the cowboy-chic interior attracts svelte condo-dwellerswho sprawl on pony-skin chairs or sidle up tothe rustic wood bar under the glow of hornedchandelier lighting; table service, martinis andPBR give savvy singles a full range of slurps.

for cocktails and appetizers from the on-siterestaurant, David Burke’s Primehouse, or relax-es post-meal in a mod space with low-slungbanquettes.

Stone Lotus 873 N. Orleans St. (Chicago Ave.), 312-440-9680; www.stonelotuslounge.comDon’t expect manis and pedis at the city’s first‘liquor spa’, a River North lounge/restaurantserving exotic huckleberry-mint soda andfroufrou finger food from mixologist/executivechef Dale Levitski (ex Trio); true to form, it’shoused in a slim but luxurious space thatdelivers miles of style with a water wall andriver-rock accents, plus a disco ball encasedin a decorative wooden blossom.

WINE BARS A D S C

Eno Hotel InterContinental Chicago, 505 N.Michigan Ave. (Illinois St.), 312-321-8738; www.chicago.intercontinental.comIts name means ‘wine’, and this low-ceilingedlounge on the first floor of the Mag Mile’sHotel InterContinental tempts with a trio oftemperature-controlled delights: small-batchvino, cheese and chocolate; while the inti-mate, russet-hued retreat features paddedleather walls, a dramatic rosewood bar andcommunal tables, the knowledgeable staffremains pretension-free.

Narcisse 710 N. Clark St. (bet. W. Huron & W. SuperiorSts.), 312-787-2675; www.narcisse.usThe “champagne and caviar crowd” descendson this “always-hopping” “Versailles_meets”–River North salon to do what it does best:sip “bubbly” and “see and be seen” in an“over-the-top” setting with “slinky booths”


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Funky Buddha Lounge 728 W. Grand Ave. (bet. N. Halsted St. & N. Milwaukee Ave.),312-666-1695; www.funkybuddha.com

Ohm1954 W. North Ave. (Damen Ave.), 773-278-5138; www.ohmnightlife.com

Republic1520 N. Fremont St. (Weed St.), 312-787-1130; www.republicchicago.com

Wet209 W. Lake St. (Wells St.), 312-223-9232; www.wetchicago.com

LIVE MUSIC

Green Mill, The4802 N. Broadway (W. Lawrence Ave.), 773-878-5552;www.greenmilljazz.com

HotHouse N31 E. Balbo Ave. (bet. S. State St. & S. Wabash Ave.), 312-362-9707; www.hothouse.net

House of BluesMarina City, 329 N. Dearborn St. (W. Kinzie St.), 312-923-2000; www.hob.com/chicago

Kingston Mines2548 N. Halsted St. (bet. W. Fullerton & W. Wrightwood Aves.),773-477-4646; www.kingstonmines.com

LOUNGES

Jet Vodka Lounge1551 N. Sheffield Ave. (bet. North Ave. & Weed St.), 312-440-9140; www.gojetgo.com

Landmark1633 N. Halsted St. (North Ave.), 312-587-1600; www.landmarkgrill.net

Sonotheque1444 W. Chicago Ave. (bet. Bishop St. & Greenview Ave.),312-226-7600; www.sonotheque.org

Underground, The56 W. Illinois St. (Dearborn St.), 312-644-7600; www.theundergroundchicago.com

WINE BARS

bin wine café1559 N. Milwaukee Ave. (North Ave.), 773-486-2233

D.O.C. Wine Bar2602 N. Clark St. (Wrightwood Ave.), 773-883-5101

Juicy Wine Co.694 N. Milwaukee Ave. (Huron St.), 312-492-6620; www.juicywine.com

Webster’s Wine Bar 1480 W. Webster St. (bet. Ashland & Clybourn Sts.), 773-868-0608; www.websterwinebar.com

BEST OF RIVER NORTHModa N25 W. Hubbard St. (N. Dearborn St.), 312-670-2200;www.clubmodachicago.com

Motel Bar, The 600 W. Chicago Ave. (Larrabee St.), 312-822-2900; www.themotelbar.com

Sound-Bar 226 W. Ontario St. (N. Franklin St.), 312-787-4480;www.sound-bar.com

Victor Hotel 311 N. Sangamon St. (Fulton St.), 312-733-6900; www.victorhotelchicago.com

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Ratings & SymbolsSymbols: Vcaddies/forecaddies

carts onlyguests onlyrestricted tee times (call ahead for public hours)

Course, Facilities, Service and Value are rated on ascale of 0 to 30. Properties listed without ratings arenewcomers or survey write-ins.

Cost is the price per non-member or non-guest toplay 18 holes on a weekend in high season (excludingthe extra cost of a cart), i.e. the highest possible priceof play. Yardage, USGA Rating and Slope are listedafter each address.

Duffers and aces alike attest to the beauty and challenge of the area’sgreens and fairways, many of which lie a mere hour’s drive from thedowntown crowd. From Harborside International’s transformed landfilland sweeping skyline views to the dreaded Dubsdread at Cog Hill, greatgolf beckons from every compass point except east, where LakeMichigan represents a significant water hazard.

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Cog Hill, No. 4 (Dubsdread) V 27 25 27 VE12294 Archer Ave., Lemont; 630-257-5872;www.coghillgolf.com; 6940/5590; 75.4/70.6;142/133“It’s tough, it’s long” and it “has enough sand tobuild a desert”, but somehow this “well-main-tained” Cog Hill course “still manages to be fun”and “fair”; “one of the very best in the Midwest”,the regular PGA Tour stop offers a “classic” design that will make you “feel like a pro” as youtest your shot-making skills; duffers dub the facili-ties “marginal”, but upcoming renovations (to beoverseen by Rees Jones) are intended to “make itworthy of a major.”

Glen Club V2901 W. Lake Ave., Glenview; 847-724-7272;www.theglenclub.com; 7149/5324; 72.2/71.5; 132/127Designer Tom Fazio “moved tons of earth” to turn “a flat naval airstrip” into this

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CantignyV27 W. 270 Mack Rd., Wheaton; 630-668-3323; www.cantignygolf.comHillside/Lakeside: 6831/5183; 72.6/70.1; 131/119Lakeside/Woodside: 7004/5425; 73.9/71.9; 138/127Woodside/Hillside: 6961/5236; 73.5/70.3; 132/120For “country-club atmosphere without thedues”, head to “one of the most scenic courses in Illinois”, this “old-fashioned” 27-holer located on the Wheaton-area estate of former Chicago Tribune honcho RobertMcCormick; fans “can’t say enough” aboutthe “pristine conditions”, “helpful staff” andcaddie program, with the highest marks goingto the “superb Lakeside/Woodside combo”and signature “Dick Tracy hole” (look for theuniquely shaped bunker).

Cog Hill, No. 2 (Ravines)V 27 25 27 VE12294 Archer Ave., Lemont; 630-257-5872; www.coghillgolf.com; 6576/5639; 71.4/71.5; 124/117Cog Hill’s “second best” “lives under theshadow” of sister course Dubsdread, but the“excellent” 1929 design situated southwestof Chicago is “challenging enough” “if youwant to practice your game”; what makes ita real “value”, though, is its “woodsy, hilly”,ravine-laced setting (“unusual” for the areaand “a nice change of pace”) and its “excel-lent service” – “it’s been there a long time,so it understands golfers.”

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“challenging” “championship course” “not far from Downtown” Chicago; site of the Nationwide Tour’s LaSalle Bank Open, the “fantastic” rolling layout offers “a refreshingmix” of holes that are kept in “top-rate condi-tion”, plus a “lovely clubhouse” and “excellentservice”; nevertheless, its equally “premiumprices” have some wary types wondering why you’d “play this when you can play Cog Hill’s No. 4 for less?”

HarborsideInternational, Port 11001 S. Doty Ave.; 312-782-7837; www.harborsideinternational.com; 7164/5164; 75.1/70.8; 132/122As “windy as the city’s nickname”, this “true links

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design” is a “fun” but “challenging” layout thatoffers treeless expanses, tufted mounding and“deep, deep rough” – “don’t bother looking” forerrant balls; although situated atop a former landfill“in the heart of the industrial district”, the Scottish-style muni is “well worth playing” for its “greatviews” of Chicagoland and its “friendly, attentive”staff; P.S. “nothing beats the value at twilight.”

Harborside International, Starboard 11001 S. Doty Ave.; 312-782-7837; www.harborsideinternational.com; 7166/5110; 75/66.4; 132/116“Like its sister course”, this “phenomenal” linkslayout is a “fun, scenic, relatively affordable”“favorite” that’s “convenient to DowntownChicago”; located “atop an old landfill”, the“challenging” muni can be “tough when thewind’s blowing” with “very penal rough” (“stayout of the fescue”), but given its “surreal” and“beautiful” environs, “views of the city skyline”and “excellent facilities”, one swinger swearsit’s the “best dump I’ve ever played.”

Orchard Valley 2411 W. Illinois Ave., Aurora; 630-907-0500;www.orchardvalleygolf.com; 6745/5162; 72.8/70.9; 134/128“As Midwest munis go, you won’t get any betterthan this” “upscale course” an hour west ofChicago that’s considered “one of the most chal-lenging and best-run” public layouts in the state;“plenty of sand traps” and “water, water every-

where” helps to keep the “fabulous” design “chal-lenging” (especially on the “super back nine”),while “very good conditioning” adds to its “excel-lent value.”

Prairie Landing 2325 Longest Dr., West Chicago; 630-208-7600; www.prairielanding.com;6950/4859; 73.2/68.3; 136/116The “three-hole warm-up course eliminatesexcuses” at this “difficult” Robert Trent Jones Jr.design where it’s “not gossip but the steady flowof corporate jets” at nearby DuPage Airport thatgives it its “buzz”; “be ready to carry rough, treesand water” – the “excellent finishing hole” has a235-yard shot over a lake – on this linksy layoutthat’s “expensive for a muni” but offers “a country-club experience” that includes “GPS to assess distances” and “beautiful” facilities.

Ruffled Feathers 1 Pete Dye Dr., Lemont; 630-257-1000;www.ruffledfeathersgc.com; 6898/5273; 74.1/71.7; 140/129With a “course name [that] tells it like it is”, this“difficult”, waterlogged layout from Pete andP.B. Dye – their “only facility in the Chicagoarea” – “tests the skills” of swingers with “bru-tal par 3s” and “lots of challenges”, but teststheir patience with “target golf on a few holes”;located southwest of the city in Lemont (“analternative to Cog Hill”), the “top-notch” trackis “kept impeccably clean and beautiful”,which may explain why it’s also “a little pricey.”

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Seven Bridges V1 Mulligan Dr., Woodridge; 630-964-7777;www.sevenbridges.com; 7103/5262; 74.6/65.6; 135/114“Golf is a water sport” on this “classic Jekylland Hyde layout” where “one of the nines is afair yet challenging track” set amid rolling,wooded terrain “and the other is target golf atits worst” courtesy of holes lined with water oneither (or both) sides; located 30 miles south-west of Chicago, this “upscale public” alsooffers a “very good restaurant” and staff, butconsidering its “somewhat pricey” fees, a fewquestion “how a high-end course can not havea driving range.”

Stonewall Orchard 25675 W. Hwy. 60, Grayslake; 847-740-4890;www.stonewallorchard.com; 7074/5375; 74.1/71.2; 140/126“Far from the world” “with few houses”,this 1999 Arthur Hills design “has matured”into one of the “best public courses inChicagoland”; located an hour north of the cityin a setting that “combines beautiful wetlands, trees and more elevation” than you normally find in Illinois, this “awesomecourse” proves “special yet challenging” courtesy of elevated tees, rolling greens,forced carries over water and “deep rough”that all but “eats golf balls.”

ThunderHawk 39700 N. Lewis Ave., Beach Park; 847-872-4295; www.lcfpd.org; 7031/5046; 73.8/69.2; 136/122“Wow, what a course” coo club-wielders aboutthis “masterpiece” “designed by RTJ Jr. for the Lake County Forest Preserve” and nestled“just far enough from Chicago to make it asecret” (about an hour north); “surrounded by flora and fauna”, the “beautiful”, “well-maintained” layout is “long and challenging” with “wide fairways”, “excellent”serpentine bunkering and fast, marsh-guardedgreens; all in all, it proves “a top value” –“especially for county residents.”


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lent restoration”, so call ahead to book a tourof its “amazing” “theater in the grand style”complete with 24-karat gold-leafed ceilingarches and impressive murals; it’s also “aspecial place to see favorite performances”and shows ranging from touring Broadwayproductions to the Joffrey Ballet of Chicagoto rock concerts.

Chicago History Museum(fka Chicago Historical Society)1601 N. Clark St. (North Ave.), 312-642-4600; www.chicagohistory.org“The Chicago fire! Abraham Lincoln! thestockyards!” – this “underappreciated andoverlooked” “sleeper” in Lincoln Park is a“small” but “gutsy” history museum offer-ing “lots to do and see”; visitors impressedby the curators’ “wit and ingenuity” say the“tours are exceptionally well done”, as arethe reenactments with actors portrayingarea notables; “if you like” the City of BigShoulders, “you’ll love it” here; N.B. amajor renovation was completed inSeptember, 2006.

Field Museum, The 1400 S. Lake Shore Dr. (McFetridge Dr.), 312-922-9410; www.fmnh.orgThere’s “almost too much to see” in this“classic” lakeside “palace of a museum”that’s “one of the best stops in Chicago”and home of “spectacular” Sue, “theworld’s most famous T. rex”, plus other“accessible, readable” and “extraordinarydisplays”, including the “wonderful gem

All the culture you can absorb awaits in Chicago’s world-class museums,institutions and architectural wonders. Contemplate some of mankind’sgreatest masterpieces at The Art Institute, talk to the animals at LincolnPark Zoo, cheer the Cubs at historic Wrigley Field or look up at the stars,out into the fields or under the sea at South Loop’s Museum Campus.Wherever you go, pastoral parks, public sculptures and the sparkling skyline create a dazzling backdrop.

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room”; “look at the Web site beforehand” tozero in on your interests, and “spend theday” if you can.

Hancock Observatory John Hancock Ctr., 875 N. Michigan Ave. (bet. Chestnut & Delaware Sts.), 312-751-3681; 888-875-8439; www.hancock-observatory.comGaze at “four states by day, a billion lightsby night” from the 94th floor of this 1970skyscraper offering “fabulous views, even inthe ladies’ room”; the elevator ride up is“amazing”, and there’s an “outdoor walk-way” like no other (“don’t worry, it’sencased with wire”) and high-tech toucheslike multilingual talking telescopes; thoughonly “the third-tallest building” in town, it’s“nothing to scoff at”, particularly when youcan cap off your visit with “a drink in theSignature Lounge” two floors above.

Lincoln Park Zoo 2200 N. Cannon Dr. (bet. Fullerton Pkwy. & Lake Shore Dr.), 312-742-2000;www.lpzoo.comAnimal aficionados affirm this is “one of thebest city zoos you’ll find”, a “manageablysized”, “well-laid-out”, “clean” park that“amazes with what it offers in such a smallspace” – they even found room for a farm;free of charge, it’s “terrific” as a destination oreven for just a quick “walk in, walk out asyou’re strolling up the lake trail.”

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Adler Planetarium and Astronomy Museum 1300 S. Lake Shore Dr. (McFetridge Dr.), 312-922-7827; www.adlerplanetarium.orgEscape earthbound reality by “exploring the universe” at this “top-notch” museum andplanetarium on the Loop where “amazingexhibits” and “captivating” “sky shows” offera “fascinating” “introduction to astronomy”(try the StarRider theater for a virtual trip intospace); you can take a self-guided tour, refuel at the cafe and snap some great pho-tos, since the lakefront location offers pic-ture-perfect views “of the Chicago skyline.”

Art Institute of Chicago 111 S. Michigan Ave. (bet. Adams & MonroeSts.), 312-443-3600; www.artic.eduFor the equivalent of a “bachelor’s degreein art history in one building”, check outthis “A-list” Loop museum that houses atrove of “instantly recognizable” “treasuresbeyond measure” (i.e. Seurat’s La GrandeJatte, Hopper’s Nighthawks, Wood’sAmerican Gothic); there’s “something forevery buff” here, but its holdings are sovast you “can’t see everything in one visit”,particularly its “second-to-none”Impressionist collection.

Auditorium Theatre 50 E. Congress Pkwy. (bet. Michigan &Wabash Aves.), 312-922-2110; www.auditoriumtheatre.orgCompleted in 1889, this “architectural treas-ure” on the Loop has undergone an “excel-

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NotableMentionsATTRACTIONS A F S C

Chicago Cultural Center78 E. Washington St. (bet. Garland Ct. & MichiganAve.), 312-346-3278; www.chicagoculturalcenter.org

Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum200 N. Oak Park Ave. (Lake St.), Oak Park, 708-848-2222; www.ehfop.org

Frank Lloyd Wright Home & Studio951 Chicago Ave. (Forest Ave.), Oak Park, 708-848-1976; www.wrightplus.org

Grant Park331 E. Randolph St. (Columbus Dr.), 312-742-7648; www.chicagoparkdistrict.com

Harold Washington Library Center400 S. State St. (bet. Congress Pkwy. & Van Buren St.),312-747-4300; www.chipublib.org

Millennium Park55 Michigan Ave. (bet. Madison & Washington Sts.),312-742-5222; www.millenniumpark.org

Navy Pier600 E. Grand Ave. (off Lake Shore Dr.), 312-595-7437;800-595-7437; www.navypier.com

Old St. Patrick’s Church700 W. Adams St. (Desplaines St.), 312-648-1021;www.oldstpats.org

Sears Tower233 S. Wacker Dr. (bet. Adams St. & Jackson Blvd.),312-875-9449; www.sears-tower.com

Soldier Field1410 S. Museum Campus Dr. (Lake Shore Dr.), 312-235-7000; www.soldierfield.net

Spertus618 S. Michigan Ave. (Harrison St.), 312-322-1747;www.spertus.edu

Union Station210 S. Canal St. (bet. Adams St. & Jackson Blvd.),312-322-4269


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Museum of Contemporary Art 220 E. Chicago Ave. (Mies van der RoheWay), 312-280-2660; www.mcachicago.orgInspiring even traditionalists to “keep an openmind”, this “outstanding small museum” in a“great” Gold Coast location is “committed toexcellence”, displaying an “eclectic” collec-tion with many “recognizable pieces” of“compelling contemporary art” in addition to“engaging” traveling exhibitions; N.B. closedon Mondays.

Museum of Contemporary Photography 600 S. Michigan Ave. (Harrison St.), 312-344-7104; www.mocp.orgShutterbugs make a beeline to thisthought-provoking South Loop museumthat embraces a wide range of programs,lectures, events and photographic works,including a permanent collection focusingon America’s role in this artistic realm; it’s a “must” for those who love the medium, and traveling exhibits add varietyto the experience.

Museum of Science and Industry 5700 S. Lake Shore Dr. (57th St.), 773-684-1414; www.msichicago.org“The coolest museum in a world-class museum city” “never ceases to amaze,amuse and educate”, so make time to visitthis Hyde Park institution where you can “divein a U-boat, go down into a coal mine, fly inan airplane” and “touch and explore” “whazz-its and wazzoos that would spin anyone’shead”; “getting there” can be “a stretch”, butit’s “highly worth it” because “unlike your highschool chemistry teacher”, this “venerable”veteran “makes science accessible and fun.”

Oriental Institute NMuseum University of Chicago, 1155 E. 58th St.(University Ave.), 773-702-9514;www.oi.uchicago.edu“One of the most important collections ofNear Eastern art” is on display in HydePark at this “awesome” immersion into the“beginning of civilization” that’s especially

fascinating “if you’re into antiquities” or thehistory of Anatolia, Cyprus, Egypt,Mesopotamia or Persia.

Robie House University of Chicago, 5757 S. Woodlawn Ave.(58th St.), 708-848-1976; www.wrightplus.orgAn “incredible house” with a “great tour” “forarchitecture fans”, this South Side “masterpiece”on the campus of the University of Chicago isanother “fine” example of Frank Lloyd Wright’swork; still, a few doubters suggest that it’s bestfor bona fide building buffs, claiming that “theonly people who really like it” are the famousdesigner’s most ardent fans.

Shedd Aquarium 1200 S. Lake Shore Dr. (McFetridge Dr.), 312-939-2438; www.sheddnet.org“Rainbows of colorful fish” vie for attentionwith dolphins, beluga whales, sharks andother “enchanting” creatures at this “top-notch” indoor aquarium “on the shores ofLake Michigan” in Grant Park; it’s “best on asummer night with live jazz and liquor” or dur-ing feeding time when the fins are in a frenzy,but a few crabs carp that given the ratherhigh prices, “you really have to like” sea sorts;N.B. dive in on Monday or Tuesday, mid-September through February, for discountadmissions.

Symphony Center 220 S. Michigan Ave. (Adams St.), 312-294-3000; 800-223-7114; www.cso.org“World-class acoustics” help make this “homeof the Chicago Symphony Orchestra” andhost to classical and jazz performances “oneof the great concert halls” in the nation;“every seat is excellent”, so even if your pock-ets are only deep enough for the upper bal-cony, you “have to experience” this “terrific”spot “at least once.”

Wrigley Field 1060 W. Addison St. (bet. Clark St. & SheffieldAve.), 773-404-2827; www.chicagocubs.comA trip to “baseball fans’ heaven”, this “ancientbut intimate” ballpark may “lack modernamenities”, but it “more than makes up in historic charm” via a “manual scoreboard”and “ivy-covered outfield walls” – and thenthere’s those “lovable Cubs”; ok, “parking’snearly impossible”, but the 90-minute toursare “great” and there’s also “lots of localcolor” in adjacent Wrigleyville.

Courtesy of Museum of Contemporary Photography

Courtesy of Museum of Science and Industry

|||\27 25 22 M

|||\27 25 23 I

|||\24 25 21 I

|||\– – – $0

|||\24 24 23 E

|||\26 20 20 I

|||\28 21 21 E

|||\28 22 22 $0

|||\23 23 21 $0

|||\– – – I

|||\28 23 21 I

|||\22 18 14 $0

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|||\22 21 19 $0

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|||\26 22 19 $0

|||\25 22 19 I

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|||\20 18 18 $0

Ratings & Symbols

The total number of rooms per hotel is followed bythe number of suites, villas, etc., e.g. 20 rooms, 2suites. Surveyor comments are in quotes.

Ratings are on a scale of 0 to 30.

Cost ($) reflects the hotel’s high-season rack rate, i.e. itsasking price, for a standard double room. It does notreflect frequent seasonal price changes and special rates.

James Chicago * N55 E. Ontario St.; 312-337-1000; fax 312-660-7183; 877-526-3755;www.jameshotels.com; 191 rooms, 52 studios, 26 loft rooms, 26 apartments“Totally rehabbed” from the former Lenox Hotel,this “sleek”, “brilliant” boutique delivers “clean, hipand fresh” urban style in a “great” River Northlocation; displayed in the lobby, spa and roomswith flat-screen TVs and WiFi, its “modern” mode“may be too funky” for travelers with traditionaltastes, but the “concierge staff is very helpful inobtaining anything you need”, and chef DavidBurke’s steakhouse is “inventive” (if “expensive”).

Monaco, Hotel *225 N. Wabash Ave.; 312-960-8500; fax 312-960-1883; 800-397-7661; www.monaco-chicago.com; 170 rooms, 22 suitesWith a “convenient” Loop “location that’s not tootouristy but right in the middle of it all”, theKimpton Group’s “offbeat” boutique hotel repre-sents a “hip” but “comfortable” “alternative to thelarge chains”; most “rooms are on the petite side”,but they have “wonderful beds” and “fun, vibrantdecor” (including “goldfish to keep you compa-ny”); sojourners traveling solo say the “SouthWater Kitchen is a pleasant place to sit at the barand enjoy a good meal” – if you’re not too full fromthe “complimentary breakfast and evening horsd’oeuvres.”

Omni 676 N. Michigan Ave.; 312-944-6664; fax 312-266-3015; 800-843-6664; www.omnihotels.com; 347 suitesA “great location” “just off the Mag Mile”, “spacious”

tea with a harpist”, surf ’n’ turf dining destina-tions (the Cape Cod Room and Drake Bros.’Steaks Chicago) and “one of the bestconcierge staffs”; critics carp this “aging”“grande dame” has “seen better days” citingrooms that “vary” – some “well done”, others“small and dingy” – but diehards declare it“still tried-and-true”, especially for cocktails inthe “fun piano bar.”

Fairmont *200 N. Columbus Dr.; 312-565-8000; fax 312-565-1032; 800-441-1414; www.fairmont.com; 626 rooms, 66 suitesThis “comfortable” convention/conferencefacility “a block from Millennium Park” “doesn’t seem as hectic as some of the otherDowntown properties” – perhaps since it’s“not on the Mag Mile, but close”; “well-appointed rooms” “with nice views of the lakeby Navy Pier” are “slightly dated”, but thereare “beautiful facilities” available “for wed-dings and meetings”, the Eclectic “swanky”Aria restaurant and a “helpful staff”; in short,it’s an “entirely adequate” “mass-marketbusiness hotel” offering “nothing over thetop”; P.S. it’s “attached to a wonderful fitnessclub” – but you “must pay.”

Four Seasons *120 E. Delaware Pl.; 312-280-8800; fax 312-280-1748; 800-332-3442; www.fourseasons.com; 175 rooms, 168 suites“Top-notch pampering” makes travelers“never want to leave” this “posh”, “pitch-perfect” “city hotel” “right on theMagnificent Mile”, where “traditional” roomswith “amazing” views of the Michigans(Avenue and Lake) are serviced by “visitsfrom the martini man”; the “terrific” “bellsand whistles” include “wonderful” NewAmerican dining at Seasons, a “fabulousspa” and gym, “great pool”, “relaxing bar”and “beautiful public rooms.”

| | | \| | | \

HOTELS R S D F $

Burnham, Hotel 1 W. Washington St.; 312-782-1111; fax 312-782-0899; 866-690-1986; www.burnhamhotel.com; 103 rooms, 19 suitesA “historic landmark” in an “amazingly gor-geous” restored building (one of the world’sfirst skyscrapers, built by Daniel Burnham in1895), this “atmospheric” Kimpton “boutiquehotel” offers “a good Loop location” forbusiness, shopping, theater-going or visitingMillennium Park; “pet-friendly” rooms are“small, but beautifully furnished” (suitesoverlook Grant Park and Lake Michigan), thestaff “knows and takes care of its repeat”visitors and the “charming [American] bistro”has a “great bar.

Conrad (fka Le Méridien)521 N. Rush St.; 312-645-1500; fax 312-645-1550; 800-543-4300; www.conradhotels.com; 278 rooms, 33 suitesWith a “dynamite location” “in the middle ofeverything” above Westfield North Bridge onMichigan Avenue (“you can get to Nordstromwithout stepping outside”), this former LeMéridien is great for shoppers and has “all themodern amenities a business traveler needs”;there are “spacious, well-kept” rooms with“amazing” bathrooms that “you could live in” if it wasn’t that you’d “miss the superb beds”, but opinion is mixed on service: some say it’s“warm” and “attentive”, others “stuffy.”

Drake, The 140 E. Walton Pl.; 312-787-2200; fax 312-475-0523; 800-553-7253; www.thedrakehotel.com; 461 rooms, 74 suites“A great change from the modern, coldhotels”, this “stately” Streeterville “charmer”(built in 1920) “harkens to another era” withtouches like “gorgeous flowers”, “afternoon

For every traveling Goldilocks, there’s a Chicago hotel room that’s just right.Accommodations that vary in style, scale and setting are part of Chicago’sallure to travelers, and the city’s primary destination neighborhoods eachhouse choices of big-name classic, chic boutique, efficient convention and intimate vintage spots to hang your new Cubs or Bears hat.

11

Hotels


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20-25 very good to excellent26-30 extraordinary to perfection

low response/less reliable

Courtesy of Ritz-Carlton (A Four Seasons Hotel)

Courtesy of Four Seasons

R Rooms S Service D Dining F Facilities

18 5 4 22

Courtesy of Hotel Burnham

||||\25 24 22 19 $229

||||\27 28 27 27 $430

||||\27 22 21 21 $525

||||\20 23 21 21 $367

= Children’s programs= Exceptional dining= Historic interest = Kitchens= Allows pets

= Views= Golf courses= Notable spa facilities= Downhill skiing= Tennis

||||\24 22 19 20 $379

||||\27 27 28 28 $339

||||\23 24 21 22 $339

||||\24 23 18 21 $239

*

“suite-style rooms” both “swanky” and “modern”(“with flat-screen TVs in every one”) and “accom-modating service” make this chainster an “excel-lent facility” in which “to do business”; execs alsosay it’s “moderately priced”, given it’s “in the actionof Michigan Avenue.”

Park Hyatt *800 N. Michigan Ave.; 312-335-1234; fax 312-239-4029; 800-778-7477;www.parkhyatt.com; 173 rooms, 15 suites“Zen garden meets corporate boardroom” at this“sleek” yet “serene oasis” with an “unbeatablelocation” facing “the old Water Tower” from whichyou can “walk to everything”; you’ll return to a“dreamy room” with “appointments to die for” (the“poufy beds” are “instantly engulfing”) and a“friendly staff that shows you are welcome here –always”; the “outstanding pool, fitness center” andTiffani Kim spa, plus New French cuisine at NoMI(“one of Chicago’s best restaurants”), help makethis “winner” “well worth the tariff.”

Peninsula, The *108 E. Superior St.; 312-337-2888; fax 312-751-2888; 866-288-8889; www.peninsula.com; 256 rooms, 83 suitesThe “wow factor” would “make a sultan swoon” atthis high-priced but “near-perfect”, “star-studded”River North property, voted the No. 1 Hotel in theU.S.; the “pampering par excellence” extends to“glorious rooms” that include “tubs for two” with“built-in TVs”, “clairvoyant, unobtrusive service”and “outstanding food in the restaurants”; there’s a“knockout” gym (lift weights “next to a wall of win-dows overlooking Lake Michigan”) and a “spa tomake your worries melt away” – though fans find

“you look better [just] standing in their lobby.”

Renaissance *1 W. Wacker Dr.; 312-372-7200; fax 312-372-0093; 800-468-3571; www.renaissancehotels.com; 513 rooms, 40 suites“At the head of State Street”, this “absolute-ly solid” “Downtown business hotel” boastsa “location convenient to everything” “insidethe Loop”; the “nicely appointed rooms” –“many with views” – are “comfortable”, even“chic”, and the staff’s “very good”; thoughthe food is merely “ok” in the restaurants(“one upscale, one the kids will love”), “thelounge is a great place to relax” – or “if youget tired walking along the river, there is alovely pool.”

Ritz-Carlton (A Four Seasons Hotel) *160 E. Pearson St.; 312-266-1000; fax 312-266-1194; 800-621-6906;www.fourseasons.com; 344 rooms, 91 suites

Among “the top-flight hotels on Michigan Avenue”,this “old-world-elegant” “class act” constitutes “aperfect business”-traveler venue that’s also “lovelyfor shopping” mavens, as it’s perched “above theWater Tower Place indoor mall”; “beautifullyappointed rooms” with “sleek contemporary bath-rooms” and “world-class views” lure loyalists,along with an “impressive, responsive staff”, NewFrench fare that’s “still among the best in town”and a “grand-hotel” “lounge and lobby area”;and if a few feel this “tasteful establishment” is“not exciting”, to most she’s “still great.”

Sofitel 20 E. Chestnut St.; 312-324-4000; fax 312-324-4026; 877-813-7700;www.sofitel.com; 382 rooms, 33 suites“Contemporary luxury with a European feel” lurks “inthe heart of the Gold Coast” at this “smart, sophisti-cated” scene of “beautiful”, “futuristic” furnishings,“fresh flowers throughout”, “gorgeous suites” and“airy rooms” “with real character” (and “magnificentbeds”); factor in French cooking at the Café desArchitectes – so fine that some surveyors “go here toeat even when staying elsewhere” – and “cordial”service, and vets vote it a “very good value for thebusiness traveler if you don’t need a pool and spa.”

Sutton Place 21 E. Bellevue Pl.; 312-266-2100; fax 312-266-2103; 866-378-8866; www.suttonplace.com; 206 rooms, 40 suites“Right in the heart of the Gold Coast’s” “bestrestaurants and shopping”, this “little boutique”hotel is “European in style”, with rooms that are“modern and cool”, a “staff that is gracious butnever fawning”, a “small but suitable workoutfacility” and rates that represent “good value”in the “affordable luxury” league; still, somestyle mavens suggest that while it was “verytrendy in the ’80s, now the best thing it hasgoing for it” is “location, location, location.”

Westin River North 320 N. Dearborn Ave.; 312-744-1900; fax 312-527-2650; 877-866-9216; www.westinchicago.com; 407 rooms, 17 suites“Standard” “Westin quality” and a location in “the heart of River North” (with all the “numer-ous bars, restaurants and theaters nearby”)make this “stylish” “Zen”-tinged “former HotelNikko” a “dependable” “business-trip” destina-tion – especially since some honchos rank the“meeting rooms in better condition” than the“comfortable” bedrooms; a few penny-pinchersalso feel “prices are a tad high”, considering thatthere’s just “nothing ‘wow’” here (although, admit-tedly, it’s nice to have a “sushi bar in the lobby”).


ZAGAT TRAVEL CAPSULE | CHICAGOH

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Courtesy of Ritz-Carlton (A Four Seasons Hotel)

Courtesy of Peninsula

Courtesy of Four Seasons

||||\27 26 25 26 $545

||||\29 28 27 28 $525

||||\24 21 19 22 $469

||||\26 27 26 25 $495

||||\22 20 18 20 $319

||||\24 22 14 21 $378

||||\27 24 23 23 $330

NotableMentionsHOTELS R S D F $

Allegro Chicago, A Kimpton Hotel 171 W. Randolph St.; 312-236-0123; fax 312-236-0917; 866-672-6143; www.kimptongroup.com; 452 rooms, 31 suites

Ambassador East (fka Omni Ambassador East)1301 N. State Pkwy.; 312-787-7200; fax 312-787-4760; 888-506-3471; www.theambassadoreasthotel.com; 239 rooms, 46 suites

Embassy Suites Lakefront N511 N. Columbus Dr.; 312-836-5900; fax 312-836-5901; 800-362-2779; www.embassysuites.com; 455 suites

Hard Rock Hotel Chicago N230 N. Michigan Ave.; 312-345-1000; fax 312-345-1012; 866-966-5166; www.hardrockhotelchicago.com; 371 rooms, 10 suites

Hyatt Regency McCormick Place 2233 S. Martin Luther King Dr.; 312-567-1234; fax 312-528-4000; 800-233-1234; www.mccormickplace.hyatt.com; 776 rooms, 24 suites

InterContinental 505 N. Michigan Ave.; 312-944-4100; fax 312-944-1320; 800-628-2112; www.interconti.com; 721 rooms, 71 suites

Swissôtel 323 E. Wacker Dr.; 312-565-0565; fax 312-565-0315; 888-737-9477; www.swissotel.com; 596 rooms, 36 suites

W Lakeshore 644 N. Lake Shore Dr.; 312-943-9200; fax 312-255-4411; 877-946-8357; www.whotels.com; 474 rooms, 26 suites

||||\18 20 17 20 $359

||||\19 20 20 20 $359

||||\23 21 19 21 $280

||||\20 20 16 19 $409

||||\20 20 17 19 $129

||||\21 21 18 22 $299

||||\22 21 19 21 $239

||||\22 21 18 21 $399“you look better [just] standing in their lobby.”

ZAGAT TRAVEL CAPSULE | CHICAGOC

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Map © 2008 by Rand McNally,© 2008 NAVTEQ

Restaurants Restaurants (cont.) Nightlife (cont.) Attractions (cont.) Hotels

13

ChicagoMap

1. Aigre Doux

2. Alinea

3. Blackbird

4. Carnivale

5. Charlie Trotter’s

6. Chicago Chop House

7. DeLaCosta

8. Everest

9. Frontera Grill

10. Harry Caray’s

11. Heaven on Seven

12. Lou Malnati’s Pizzeria

13. Lou Mitchell’s

14. Manny’s

15. Morton’s, The Steakhouse

16. Nacional 27

17. Nine

18. Republic Pan-Asian

Restaurant & Lounge

19. Rosebud

20. Shaw’s Crab House

21. Spiaggia

22. Spring

23. Tru

24. Wildfire

25. Xel-Há

26. Cabaret Cocktail Boutique

27. crobar

28. Double Door

29. Empty Bottle

30. Enclave

45. Field Museum

46. Hancock Observatory

47. Lincoln Park Zoo

48. Museum of

Contemporary Art

49. Museum of

Contemporary Photography

50. Museum of Science

and Industry

51. Oriental Institute Museum

52. Robie House

53. Shedd Aquarium

54. Symphony Center

55. Wrigley Field

31. Eno

32. Fulton Lounge

33. J Bar

34. Metro

35. Narcisse

36. Pops for Champagne

37. Rednofive

38. RiNo

39. Stone Lotus

40. Transit

41. Adler Planetarium and

Astronomy Museum

42. Art Institute of Chicago

43. Auditorium Theatre

44. Chicago History Museum

56. Burnham

57. Conrad

58. Drake

59. Fairmont

60. Four Seasons

61. James Chicago

62. Monaco

63. Omni

64. Park Hyatt

65. Peninsula

66. Renaissance

67. Ritz-Carlton

(A Four Seasons Hotel)

68. Sofitel

69. Sutton Place

70. Westin River North

AttractionsNightlife

Chicago2007 Travel_Capsule_new.qxd:TC working file 5/1/08 4:07 PM


ZAGAT TRAVEL CAPSULE | CHICAGOA

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Zagat Survey’s unique approach uses a 30-point scale to rate the distinctqualities of restaurants (Food, Decor, Service and Cost), hotels (Rooms,Service, Dining and Facilities) and other leisure-related establishments.Zagat Survey’s format allows people to search for and find the best placesto meet their individual needs based on a variety of criteria. That breadthand depth of information has made Zagat Survey a name that consumerscan trust – even if they aren’t sure how to pronounce it.

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14

zagat travel capsule chicago

Documents

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