This is a simple? guide to installing a Provent 200 Oil Vapour Filter into a Nissan X-Trail T31 Diesel 09 Model M9R Engine YOU PERFORM THIS MODIFICATION AT YOUR OWN RISK It may affect your warranty The author accepts NO RESPONSIBILITY Tools/Skills Required/Costs One Provent 200 CCV Oil Vapour Filter $195.00 10mm Spanner/Socket Directional tin snips (Aviation Snips) 90mm Hole saw (optional) Bracket template – This is included on the last page as a document to be printed out on A4 paper Materials for the bracket (This bracket uses 2mm Sheet Aluminium) $5-00 10mm drill bit and Drill 5/8 heater hose cut to the following lengths $7-00 (You will have to buy 2 mtrs) 1 @ 890mm 1 @ 470mm 1 @ 250mm 2 @ 75mm

NOTE Hose used here is just standard water heater hose it will break down and go soft over a period of years due to oil – To use the correct oil resistant piping will cost approximately $200-00 more (Your Choice)

Sharp knife for cutting hoses 3 off “Vultail” 5/8 double barbed corners – These are suitable for oil and rated to withstand 100 degrees Cel. $21-00 Irrigation fittings are no good RTV Silicone – Gasket Silicone that is oil compatible 2 small flat head nails ½ inch long and a clearance drill bit to suit Basic sheet metal skills Optional extras One espresso coffee machine! One bottle of Rum (Medicinal purposes- Antiseptic/Anaesthetic for cuts) Typist Note (YEAH RIGHT!) The clearance to the underside of the bonnet is about 7mm when measured with plasticine Step 1 Shape, Cut, Drill the bracket being careful to remove all sharp edges as per template and shown below

Paint it Black when finished (Colour is optional!) Step 2 Install the bracket onto the filter – This is tricky you need to put a twist into the bracket to literally screw it on to the filter as shown below

Bend bracket to get the twist

Screw on the bracket

Bracket installed – It may be Necessary to file of some of the ridging near the thumb to allow the bracket to screw over – depends how neat and accurate your hole is Step 3 Cut hose to lengths as detailed above Step 4 Silicone the top and bottom hoses in place before installation – It is easier to do this on the bench than in the car! Trust me! The hoses actually fit inside the outlets on the filter so silicone well and insert fully Align the bend in the hoses with the general direction of the required direction that way there is less stress on the joints etc see photo below The 470 mm Hose goes into the TOP HOLE The 890 mm Hose goes into the BOTTOM HOLE If you wish you can “Pin” the hoses in place Drill a small hole through one side only in both outlets and insert a small flat head nail if so desired – Tape over nail head to hold in place Allow the silicone to dry – at least 24hrs

Assembled unit – note pipe bend direction Step 5

Remove the engine top cover – 4 push in-plugs underneath Just run your fingers around underneath until you find them then pull upwards gently Step 6 Remove the existing CCV Pipe Do not throw away – keep for later if needed

Step 7 Remove the three bolts near L/H headlight as shown

Bolts removed

The Bonnet sensor switch will just flop about don’t worry about it at this stage

The above photo was included just for general information to show how the bracket should fit when installed minus the canister The white gives contrast so that things are easy to see. Note how the bonnet sensor has been re installed DO NOT FIX THE BRACKET AT THIS STAGE Step 8 This one is a Biggie – Better get that coffee now! It is time to route the hoses and install the canister Remove the top of the washer bottle - Pull up the centre of the pin stud remove the stud and then pull up the bottle filler neck Disconnect the radiator overflow connection to the tank bottle All this makes it easier to get your hands in Carefully work the bottom hose into place as per the photos – this is tricky as the hose is stiff but it can be done with a little patience The route has to go under and inside the A/C line and through the gap in the injector lines and will be quite obvious in real life - see photos. The top hose just travels over the top of everything and as such is not a problem. Whilst you are juggling this you must also get the canister and bracket into place as you feed it in – Don’t be afraid to twist and turn the hose etc

When in place bolt bracket into place but remember to put back the bonnet shut sensor (That is the push button thingy!) Replace washer and Radiator stuff

Step 9 Install remaining piping Join smaller pipes with elbows to access the outlet port of the oil separator as indicated by the red arrows and lines Lightly silicone all joins

The longer pipe from the bottom of the filter connects to the air inlet as indicated by the Green arrows and lines – there are no elbows in the green line

DO NOT silicone the joints that reconnected to the engine and air intake – this way the system can be removed and the old hose placed back should the need arise IE Going to the Nissan Dealer Etc Step 10 Last but not least – replace engine top cover Install the guts to the filter checking cap is screwed on until it locks it actually has a little bit of a click to indicate Silicone around the canister for vibration and holding purposes Secure pipes to engine lift bracket at rear of engine by the first elbow with zip tie The finished item Crack a coldie!!

Bracket Template It is best to download the Bracket Template from HERE for printing!

All holes are 10mm diameter This should print out correct size on a standard printer – you may need to adjust your margins – check the 91 mm measurement for accuracy of the whole template

http://www.australianxtrail.com.au/files/BracketTemplate.doc