yarns

YARNSYARNS

YARNS- CONSTRUCTION AND PROPERTIESYARNS- CONSTRUCTION AND PROPERTIES

Definition: Definition: Defined as linear strand of twisted fibers; Defined as linear strand of twisted fibers;

made from natural staple or man-made filament made from natural staple or man-made filament

fibers. Yarns are the basic materials that are used in fibers. Yarns are the basic materials that are used in

the production of woven and knitted fabrics.the production of woven and knitted fabrics.


Properties and characteristics of yarn depend on:Properties and characteristics of yarn depend on:• Composition of fiberComposition of fiber

• Length of fiber (staple or filament)Length of fiber (staple or filament)• Type of yarn (spun or filament)Type of yarn (spun or filament)

• Count (thickness or fineness)Count (thickness or fineness)

• Number of strands of yarn (single or Number of strands of yarn (single or

plied)plied)

• Amount of yarn twist Amount of yarn twist

• Direction of yarn twistDirection of yarn twist• Construction of yarn (simple, complex Construction of yarn (simple, complex

or textured)or textured)


Characteristics of spun yarns:Characteristics of spun yarns:• Composed of staple fibers; Composed of staple fibers; • Made from natural cotton, flax, or wool staple fibers; Made from natural cotton, flax, or wool staple fibers; • Made from natural (silk) or man made filaments which Made from natural (silk) or man made filaments which

are cut in to short lengths; are cut in to short lengths; • Bulkier than filament yarns; Bulkier than filament yarns; • More hairiness and fuzzy appearance; More hairiness and fuzzy appearance; • Fiber ends protrude from surface throughout the Fiber ends protrude from surface throughout the

length; length; • More imperfections or irregularities; More imperfections or irregularities; • More amount of twist than filament yarns; More amount of twist than filament yarns; • Dull appearance than filament yarns; Dull appearance than filament yarns; • Rough or soft to touch depends on amount of twist;Rough or soft to touch depends on amount of twist;• Provide good covering powerProvide good covering power


Characteristics of Ring Spun yarn:Characteristics of Ring Spun yarn:

• High parallelization of fibers; High parallelization of fibers;

• Helical orientation of fibers in all areas; Helical orientation of fibers in all areas;

• Compact yarn structure; High yarn hairiness; Compact yarn structure; High yarn hairiness;

• Low yarn stiffness; Low yarn stiffness;

• Good yarn strength; Good yarn strength;

• Poor evenness; Poor evenness;

• More imperfections and irregularities; More imperfections and irregularities;


Characteristics of Ring Spun yarn:Characteristics of Ring Spun yarn:

• Fair abrasion resistance; Fair abrasion resistance;

• Low insulation; Low insulation;

• Produced wide range of yarn counts; Produced wide range of yarn counts;

• Can be used wide range of end uses like fabrics for Can be used wide range of end uses like fabrics for

apparel, home furnishings and industrial applications.apparel, home furnishings and industrial applications.

• Low pilling propensity; Low pilling propensity;

• Low surface roughness; Moderate thermal retention; Low surface roughness; Moderate thermal retention;

Medium softnessMedium softness


Characteristics of carded spun yarns:Characteristics of carded spun yarns:

• Made from short staple cotton fibbers; Made from short staple cotton fibbers;

• Coarser or thicker yarns; Coarser or thicker yarns;

• Uneven yarn; Uneven yarn;

• more imperfections/irregularities; more imperfections/irregularities;

• Produce loose or napped fabric structure; Produce loose or napped fabric structure;

• Dull appearance or uneven lookDull appearance or uneven look


Characteristics of combed yarn:Characteristics of combed yarn:

• Made from long staple cotton fibers; Made from long staple cotton fibers;

• Smooth and finer yarn; Smooth and finer yarn;

• More uniformity; More uniformity;

• Less imperfections and irregularities; Less imperfections and irregularities;

• More bright and even lookMore bright and even look

SPUN YARN MANUFACTURINGSPUN YARN MANUFACTURING

Ring spinning: Ring spinning:

• All staple fibres must be subjected to certain All staple fibres must be subjected to certain mechanical processing steps during yarn mechanical processing steps during yarn manufacture. manufacture.

• The processing of the fibres may be by the cotton The processing of the fibres may be by the cotton spinning system or by the wool spinning system. spinning system or by the wool spinning system.

• The two systems differ in that their machinery has The two systems differ in that their machinery has been designed to operate with different fibre been designed to operate with different fibre types. types.


Ring spinning: Ring spinning:

• The cotton spinning spinning system machines is The cotton spinning spinning system machines is made to process short, strong and smooth fibres. made to process short, strong and smooth fibres.

• The wool spinning system is designed to operate The wool spinning system is designed to operate on long, weak and crimped fibres; on long, weak and crimped fibres;

• However, the basic steps of processing are However, the basic steps of processing are essentially the same. essentially the same.

• The processing of staple fibres in to yarn requires The processing of staple fibres in to yarn requires the following steps.the following steps.


Ring spinning: Ring spinning: Blow room process: Blow room process: sorting, opening, separating, sorting, opening, separating, cleaning, and blending of fibres cleaning, and blending of fibres Carding: Carding: intensive cleaning through individualization of intensive cleaning through individualization of fibresfibres Drawing: Drawing: alignment of fibres through doubling and drafting alignment of fibres through doubling and drafting of fibresof fibres Combing: Combing: micro cleaning and alignment of fibres through micro cleaning and alignment of fibres through parallelizationparallelization Roving: Roving: attenuating drawn sliversattenuating drawn slivers Spinning: Spinning: twisting drafted roving in to yarntwisting drafted roving in to yarn


Blow room process:Blow room process:• Cotton fibres that have been compressed into large bales are

delivered to the spinning mill from a number of suppliers. • These fibres differ in quality and spin able properties like

staple length, fineness, flexibility, strength and trash content. • In order to insure uniformity and quality of the product, the

spinner must sort the fibers as to grade, remove the impurities like dirt, leaves and sand particles, and blend the fibres from different bales.

• This is done by feeding fibres from different bales in to the chute of the opener, an enclosed chamber containing a rotating cylinder equipped with spiked teeth or set of oscillating toothed bars.

• he tufts are pulled apart so the fibres are loosened from each other. At the same time, impurities and trashes are separated from the fibres.

• At the end of this process the bulk of fibres either converted in to thick lap or opened loose fibres are fed into a carding process by means of chute feed system.


Carding:Carding:

• In carding the tufts of fibres are individualized by means of carding action for efficient removal of fine trash particles.

• The carding action is achieved by the fibre tufts caught between a cylinder which is covered with fine needles and flat strips.

• The cylinder and flat strips rotate at different speeds so that the fine needles individualize the fibers effectively.

• The sheet of carded fibres is drawn through funnel in to a soft, bulky untwisted strand called a sliver.


Drawing:Drawing:

• Six or more slivers are fed to the drawing frame, where they Six or more slivers are fed to the drawing frame, where they are combined, drafted and condensed in to single sliver. are combined, drafted and condensed in to single sliver.

• The drawing frame contains three or four drafting rollers The drawing frame contains three or four drafting rollers rotating at successively increasing speeds. The slivers are rotating at successively increasing speeds. The slivers are flattened, stretched out (drawn) and re combined as they pass flattened, stretched out (drawn) and re combined as they pass through the rollers. through the rollers.

• The final thin web is pulled through a funnel and condensed The final thin web is pulled through a funnel and condensed into a soft and bulky sliver similar to the original sliver. into a soft and bulky sliver similar to the original sliver.

• However, the resultant drawn sliver is six or more times longer However, the resultant drawn sliver is six or more times longer than original sliver.than original sliver.


Combing:Combing:

• For producing yarns for fine quality fabrics with better For producing yarns for fine quality fabrics with better uniformity, luster; less hairy texture and strength, carded uniformity, luster; less hairy texture and strength, carded slivers are subjected to combing process. slivers are subjected to combing process.

• Prior to this process the carded slivers are fed into lap former Prior to this process the carded slivers are fed into lap former where they are reformed in to thin fibrous web, later it is where they are reformed in to thin fibrous web, later it is processed in combing.processed in combing.

• • During combing process the short fibres, micro dust particles, During combing process the short fibres, micro dust particles,

neps and other foreign matters are removed at maximum neps and other foreign matters are removed at maximum extent. extent.

• Combed sliver is better aligned, more uniform than carded Combed sliver is better aligned, more uniform than carded sliver. sliver.


Roving:Roving:

• The carded or combed sliver is delivered to the ROVING The carded or combed sliver is delivered to the ROVING FRAME. FRAME.

• Here the sliver is passed through another set of drafting rolls, Here the sliver is passed through another set of drafting rolls, which produce roving by reducing the diameter and increasing which produce roving by reducing the diameter and increasing the length of the material. the length of the material.

• A small amount of twist is inserted in the material at this stage A small amount of twist is inserted in the material at this stage known as roving as it is being wound onto a rotating spindle. known as roving as it is being wound onto a rotating spindle.

• The roving is about one-eighth the diameters and eight times The roving is about one-eighth the diameters and eight times the length of the sliver.the length of the sliver.


Spinning:Spinning:• The roving is mounted on the RING SPINNING FRAME and fed The roving is mounted on the RING SPINNING FRAME and fed

through another set of drafting rolls. through another set of drafting rolls.

• The final pair of rollers spins at about thirty times the speed of The final pair of rollers spins at about thirty times the speed of the first pair. the first pair.

• The highly attenuated yarn is fed onto a high-speed spindle by The highly attenuated yarn is fed onto a high-speed spindle by a traveler, which rotates on a ring surrounding the spindle.a traveler, which rotates on a ring surrounding the spindle.

• • The traveler rotates at a speed slightly slower than the spindle The traveler rotates at a speed slightly slower than the spindle

and is capable of an up-and down-motion.and is capable of an up-and down-motion.

• The difference in speed between the traveler and the spindle The difference in speed between the traveler and the spindle determines the degree of the twist of the yarn. determines the degree of the twist of the yarn.

• The oscillating motion of the traveler winds the yarn into a neat The oscillating motion of the traveler winds the yarn into a neat package.package.


Spinning:Spinning:• A more rapid method of preparing spun yarns uses an A more rapid method of preparing spun yarns uses an

integrated spinning frame which converts sliver to yarn integrated spinning frame which converts sliver to yarn without the necessity for drawing and drafting .without the necessity for drawing and drafting .

• The steps in processing the fibers are essentially the same as The steps in processing the fibers are essentially the same as in the standard process, but they take place in one machine. in the standard process, but they take place in one machine.

• Yarns made in this manner are not as fine as those made in the Yarns made in this manner are not as fine as those made in the standard way, but processing costs are greatly reduced.standard way, but processing costs are greatly reduced.


Spinning:Spinning:• It is obvious that with so many steps involved in the spinning It is obvious that with so many steps involved in the spinning

of the fiber to yarn manufacturers are constantly searching for of the fiber to yarn manufacturers are constantly searching for more rapid and expensive methods. more rapid and expensive methods.

• The integrated carding device and the integrated spinning The integrated carding device and the integrated spinning frame mentioned above are the two of the means for reducing frame mentioned above are the two of the means for reducing cost and increasing productivity. cost and increasing productivity.

• They are currently used for making coarser yarns, but in the They are currently used for making coarser yarns, but in the future they may be used more and more for finer yarns.future they may be used more and more for finer yarns.


Open end spinning:Open end spinning:• The most important new development in spinning technology The most important new development in spinning technology

is open end (OE) spinning, a process for converting strands of is open end (OE) spinning, a process for converting strands of untwisted fiber (sliver) directly into yarn. untwisted fiber (sliver) directly into yarn.

• The card sliver is fed through a set of fluted rollers and beaters The card sliver is fed through a set of fluted rollers and beaters which open and draft the sliver so that the fibers are more or which open and draft the sliver so that the fibers are more or less separated from one another. less separated from one another.

• The loose strand is then fed onto the inner surface of a rotating The loose strand is then fed onto the inner surface of a rotating funnel, and is removed through the center of the funnel. funnel, and is removed through the center of the funnel.

• Centrifugal force maintains the fibers on the surface of the Centrifugal force maintains the fibers on the surface of the cone, while the drawing action of the take off rolls pulls the cone, while the drawing action of the take off rolls pulls the yarn out.yarn out.

• The change in direction of motion, from the circular path The change in direction of motion, from the circular path around the funnel to the lateral path through its center, inserts around the funnel to the lateral path through its center, inserts twist into the yarn.twist into the yarn.


Open end spinning:Open end spinning:• The major advantages of OE spinning are high production The major advantages of OE spinning are high production

speed (over 10,000m/min), reduced power consumption, and speed (over 10,000m/min), reduced power consumption, and improved evenness of yarn and the ability to produce larger improved evenness of yarn and the ability to produce larger packages. packages.

• This latter is important to the fabric manufacturer, since it This latter is important to the fabric manufacturer, since it means fewer knots in the final product and greater uniformity means fewer knots in the final product and greater uniformity of supply yarn. of supply yarn.

• The major disadvantages of OE spinning are the limited range The major disadvantages of OE spinning are the limited range of production capability (from yarn size no.6 to no 24.) and the of production capability (from yarn size no.6 to no 24.) and the requirements for the careful cleaning of the fibers before requirements for the careful cleaning of the fibers before spinning. spinning.

• Small amounts of foreign material have a more deleterious Small amounts of foreign material have a more deleterious effect on the production speed and yarn properties in OE effect on the production speed and yarn properties in OE spinning than in ring spinning. The performance properties of spinning than in ring spinning. The performance properties of OE spun yarns are compared to those of ring spun yarns.OE spun yarns are compared to those of ring spun yarns.


Characteristics of Open- end /Rotor Spun Yarns:Characteristics of Open- end /Rotor Spun Yarns:•Low parallelisation of fibers; Helical orientation of fibers in inner Low parallelisation of fibers; Helical orientation of fibers in inner

core; Less compact yarn structure; Low yarn hairiness; More rigid; core; Less compact yarn structure; Low yarn hairiness; More rigid;

Poor yarn strength; Better evenness; Less imperfections and Poor yarn strength; Better evenness; Less imperfections and

irregularitiesirregularities

•Better abrasion resistance; Moderate insulation; High pilling Better abrasion resistance; Moderate insulation; High pilling

propensity; Fair surface roughness; Produced only courser yarn propensity; Fair surface roughness; Produced only courser yarn

counts; Heavy weight apparel and home furnishing; Moderate counts; Heavy weight apparel and home furnishing; Moderate

thermal retention; Better softness. thermal retention; Better softness.


Characteristics of Dreff / Air-jet Spun Yarns:Characteristics of Dreff / Air-jet Spun Yarns:• Parallelisation of fibers high at yarn core and less at yarn edge; Parallelisation of fibers high at yarn core and less at yarn edge;

axial orientation in yarn core; Less Compact yarn structure.axial orientation in yarn core; Less Compact yarn structure.

• Low yarn hairiness; Low yarn stiffness; yarn strength better Low yarn hairiness; Low yarn stiffness; yarn strength better than OE-spun and inferior than ring spun; less evenness than than OE-spun and inferior than ring spun; less evenness than OE- spun yarn. OE- spun yarn.

• More imperfections and irregularities than OE-spun and better More imperfections and irregularities than OE-spun and better than ring spun yarn; High abrasion resistance; Good than ring spun yarn; High abrasion resistance; Good insulation. insulation.

• Pilling propensity less than OE- spun; Medium surface Pilling propensity less than OE- spun; Medium surface roughness; Best thermal retention; Better softness than OE& roughness; Best thermal retention; Better softness than OE& ring spun yarn;ring spun yarn;

• Yarn count is not as fine as ring spun yarn, but finer than OE-Yarn count is not as fine as ring spun yarn, but finer than OE-spun; can be used apparel, bedding and furnishing fabricsspun; can be used apparel, bedding and furnishing fabrics


Characteristics Of Worsted Yarns:Characteristics Of Worsted Yarns:

• Made from short staple wool fibres; Made from short staple wool fibres;

• Coarse / bulky / thicker/ fuzzy; Coarse / bulky / thicker/ fuzzy;

• More hairiness; Uneven yarn; More hairiness; Uneven yarn;

• More imperfections/irregularities; More imperfections/irregularities;

• Produce loose or napped fabric structure; Produce loose or napped fabric structure;

• Dull appearance or Un even look; Dull appearance or Un even look;

• Produce insulating properties and providing warmth; Produce insulating properties and providing warmth;

• Resist wrinkling and do not maintain desired creaseResist wrinkling and do not maintain desired crease

Single-Ply yarn:Single-Ply yarn:• A yarn composed of single strand, which is produced by A yarn composed of single strand, which is produced by

spinning process; spinning process;

• When Un twisted, the fibers can be separatedWhen Un twisted, the fibers can be separated

MonofilamentMonofilament Yarn Yarn

• A single strand of filament yarn; A single strand of filament yarn;

• Cannot be separated, Cannot be separated,

• It is an indivisible component.It is an indivisible component.

Multifilament YarnsMultifilament Yarns• Yarns are composed of two or more filament strands twisted Yarns are composed of two or more filament strands twisted

together to form one yarn; together to form one yarn;

• When untwisted, each filament can be counted.When untwisted, each filament can be counted.

• Made from natural silk or man made filament fibers; Made from natural silk or man made filament fibers;

• Fine and smooth and more pliable than spurn yarns; Fine and smooth and more pliable than spurn yarns;

• More uniform in diameter than spun yarns; More uniform in diameter than spun yarns;

• Provides lustrous and shiny appearance; Provides lustrous and shiny appearance;

• Loosely twisted; Loosely twisted;

• Filaments can be separated when untwisted and can be Filaments can be separated when untwisted and can be

counted; counted;

• Produce high seam and yarn slippage; Produce high seam and yarn slippage;

• Poor covering power; Poor covering power;

• Stronger than spun yarns of the same diameter and fiber Stronger than spun yarns of the same diameter and fiber

content.content.

Characteristics of filament yarns:Characteristics of filament yarns:

• Textured yarns are end result of physical, chemical or thermal Textured yarns are end result of physical, chemical or thermal manipulation of filament yarns; Texturizing produces a manipulation of filament yarns; Texturizing produces a permanent change in physical structure of the yarn.permanent change in physical structure of the yarn.

• Texture varies from soft to crisp; Good covering power than Texture varies from soft to crisp; Good covering power than untextured yarns; Spongy and springy feel; Better shape untextured yarns; Spongy and springy feel; Better shape retention; Good stretch and elongation recovery; Good retention; Good stretch and elongation recovery; Good resistance to undesirable crease and wrinkles.resistance to undesirable crease and wrinkles.

• Better strength and abrasion resistance; higher bulk without Better strength and abrasion resistance; higher bulk without added weight; Provides insulating properties; Improves added weight; Provides insulating properties; Improves resistance to yarn and seam slippage; Improved absorbency resistance to yarn and seam slippage; Improved absorbency and dyeing properties; Better dimensional stability and opaque and dyeing properties; Better dimensional stability and opaque fabric structure fabric structure

Textured Filament YarnsTextured Filament Yarns

Man made filaments can be treated to produce yarns with some Man made filaments can be treated to produce yarns with some degree of stretch and recovery by chemical and mechanical degree of stretch and recovery by chemical and mechanical methods. The resultant yarn will have the following qualities:methods. The resultant yarn will have the following qualities:

Types of Textured YarnsTypes of Textured Yarns Stretch yarnsStretch yarns

• Good bulk and stretch characteristicsGood bulk and stretch characteristics• Complete recoveryComplete recovery• Produced soft handProduced soft hand

Stretch and recovery of yarn is controlled by:Stretch and recovery of yarn is controlled by:

• The amount and direction of twist in the yarnThe amount and direction of twist in the yarn• Single or plied yarnsSingle or plied yarns• Amount of false twist inducedAmount of false twist induced• Heat set temperatureHeat set temperature• Degree of tension and feed roll mechanismDegree of tension and feed roll mechanism

Following texturization process are used to produce stretch yarns:Following texturization process are used to produce stretch yarns:

Types of Textured YarnsTypes of Textured Yarns Stretch yarnsStretch yarns

• False twisterFalse twister

• Edge crimpingEdge crimping

• Gear crimpingGear crimping

• Stuffer box Stuffer box

Bulk yarns are created and processed by nonlinearly and loop Bulk yarns are created and processed by nonlinearly and loop formation in yarn structure; the process introduces crimp, loops, formation in yarn structure; the process introduces crimp, loops, curls and waviness in the yarn.curls and waviness in the yarn.

Types of Textured YarnsTypes of Textured Yarns Bulk yarnsBulk yarns

These yarns are produced byThese yarns are produced by

• Air texturizationAir texturization

• Knit and de knit methodKnit and de knit method

The resulting yarns of these processes are bulked The resulting yarns of these processes are bulked and twisted.and twisted.

• Made of staple or filament fibers; Made of staple or filament fibers;

• Increased bulkiness, loftiness and volume without added Increased bulkiness, loftiness and volume without added

weight;weight;

• Improved covering power due to bulkiness; Improved covering power due to bulkiness;

• Retain bulkiness both stressed and relaxed conditions; Retain bulkiness both stressed and relaxed conditions;

• Provides warmth/ insulating properties; Reduces strength and Provides warmth/ insulating properties; Reduces strength and

luster. luster.

Types of Textured YarnsTypes of Textured Yarns Bulk yarnsBulk yarns

Characteristics:Characteristics:

• In FALSE-TWIST texturing, the yarn is passed continuously In FALSE-TWIST texturing, the yarn is passed continuously through the false-twist apparatus.through the false-twist apparatus.

• Production rates of 175 to 225 meters per minute (190- 250 ypm) Production rates of 175 to 225 meters per minute (190- 250 ypm) are common, with rates of 400 mpm (440 ypm) attainable on low are common, with rates of 400 mpm (440 ypm) attainable on low denier-yarns. denier-yarns.

Types of Textured YarnsTypes of Textured Yarns Methods of TexturizationMethods of Texturization

FALSE-TWISTFALSE-TWIST

• Untwisted multi filament yarn is fed through the delivery rolls to Untwisted multi filament yarn is fed through the delivery rolls to the twister, which may be of the spindle type or friction type. the twister, which may be of the spindle type or friction type.

• In the spindle twister, the yarn is looped over a pin within a In the spindle twister, the yarn is looped over a pin within a hollow cylinder. hollow cylinder.

• Rotation of the cylinder inserts the twist in the yarn. In the Rotation of the cylinder inserts the twist in the yarn. In the friction twister, the yarn is caught between rotating disks, which friction twister, the yarn is caught between rotating disks, which insert the twist. insert the twist.

• In either device, the section of yarn between delivery rolls and In either device, the section of yarn between delivery rolls and the twister is a high degree of twist, from 70 to 100 turns per the twister is a high degree of twist, from 70 to 100 turns per inch. inch.

• While twisted, the yarn is heated near its transition temperature While twisted, the yarn is heated near its transition temperature by the heater and then allowed to cool as it passes the twister. by the heater and then allowed to cool as it passes the twister.



• Beyond the twister, the torque on the yarn is released and the Beyond the twister, the torque on the yarn is released and the filaments partially untwist. filaments partially untwist.

• The filaments of the yarn now have been given a permanent The filaments of the yarn now have been given a permanent crimp. crimp.

• The textured yarn is passed over the take-up-rolls and wound The textured yarn is passed over the take-up-rolls and wound on packages. on packages.

• False-twist textured yarns attain a residual twist, either S or Z, False-twist textured yarns attain a residual twist, either S or Z, so they tend to kink in processing. so they tend to kink in processing.

• To overcome this, manufacturers often apply S and Z twist yarn To overcome this, manufacturers often apply S and Z twist yarn together to produce a balanced double yarn. together to produce a balanced double yarn.



• The delivery roll into a narrow, heated box forces the feed yarn.The delivery roll into a narrow, heated box forces the feed yarn.

• The heated filaments are crushed into an accordion like The heated filaments are crushed into an accordion like

configuration, and removed by the take-up rolls. configuration, and removed by the take-up rolls.

• The treated fibers retain a saw tooth shape. The treated fibers retain a saw tooth shape.

• Stuffer-box texturing is slower than false-twist texturing, but is Stuffer-box texturing is slower than false-twist texturing, but is

better suited to heavy deniers such as carpet yarn and tow.better suited to heavy deniers such as carpet yarn and tow.


STUFFER BOX:STUFFER BOX:

• Another texturing process based on crushing the heated Another texturing process based on crushing the heated

filaments, gear crimping, and simply passes the yarn a set of filaments, gear crimping, and simply passes the yarn a set of

heated, toothed gears. heated, toothed gears.

• The filaments are deformed into a saw tooth shape much as in The filaments are deformed into a saw tooth shape much as in

stuffer-box method. stuffer-box method.

• Gear crimping (figure 18.10) is not popular as other methods Gear crimping (figure 18.10) is not popular as other methods

because critical control of the temperature and pressure are because critical control of the temperature and pressure are

required to prevent breakage of the filaments.required to prevent breakage of the filaments.


GEAR CRIMP:GEAR CRIMP:

• A high velocity jet of hot turbulence air stream textures yarns A high velocity jet of hot turbulence air stream textures yarns undergoing this method. undergoing this method.

• The yarn is fed into a bulking chamber where it is blown about The yarn is fed into a bulking chamber where it is blown about by turbulent jet of air steam so that individual filaments are by turbulent jet of air steam so that individual filaments are looped and curled about each other. looped and curled about each other.

• The process does not require that the filaments be heat-set, so The process does not require that the filaments be heat-set, so it can be used for non-thermoplastic fibers such as rayon. it can be used for non-thermoplastic fibers such as rayon.

• It has also been used to texture glass yarns for use in drapery.It has also been used to texture glass yarns for use in drapery. • Air-jet methods generally increase the apparent volume of the Air-jet methods generally increase the apparent volume of the

yarn without greatly increasing the stretch.yarn without greatly increasing the stretch.


AIR JET:AIR JET:

• Drawing of the thermoplastic yarn over a hot knife-edge, as shown in the figure Drawing of the thermoplastic yarn over a hot knife-edge, as shown in the figure 18.12, as the yarns are passed over the heated edge, the lower portion of the 18.12, as the yarns are passed over the heated edge, the lower portion of the filaments in contact with the metal is heated, and the molecules in this region filaments in contact with the metal is heated, and the molecules in this region lose their orientation. lose their orientation.

• This produces a fiber in which one portion has the characteristics different from This produces a fiber in which one portion has the characteristics different from the other. the other.

• The dissimilarities in the physical properties cause the filament to coil much like The dissimilarities in the physical properties cause the filament to coil much like wool fibers. wool fibers.

• Edge-crimped yarns have a high degree of stretch with a little tendency to twist. Edge-crimped yarns have a high degree of stretch with a little tendency to twist.

• It is possible to simulate a knife-edged textured yarn by drawing a strip of paper It is possible to simulate a knife-edged textured yarn by drawing a strip of paper or a ribbon across the edge of a scissors and causing a strip to curl. or a ribbon across the edge of a scissors and causing a strip to curl.

• Note that the resulting “yarn” is quite bulky and has a high degree of stretch.Note that the resulting “yarn” is quite bulky and has a high degree of stretch.


EGDGE CRIMP:EGDGE CRIMP:

Novelty Yarns are single or plied yarn structures characterized by Novelty Yarns are single or plied yarn structures characterized by intentionally introduced irregularities in size, twist and multi intentionally introduced irregularities in size, twist and multi colored effects.colored effects.

FANCY / NOVELTY YARNSFANCY / NOVELTY YARNS

Novelty yarn construction:Novelty yarn construction:

• Base yarn – to control length and stabilityBase yarn – to control length and stability

• Effect yarn – to add texture and aesthetic valueEffect yarn – to add texture and aesthetic value

• Binder yarn – to hold effect yarn with the base yarnBinder yarn – to hold effect yarn with the base yarn

Texture and aesthetics of novelty yarns depends on:Texture and aesthetics of novelty yarns depends on:

• Changing type and count of yarnChanging type and count of yarn

• Changing the amount of twist / direction of twistChanging the amount of twist / direction of twist

• Adding metallic yarnsAdding metallic yarns

• Adding different colored yarnsAdding different colored yarns


Characteristics of novelty yarns:Characteristics of novelty yarns:

• Enhance texture and design to fabric; Enhance texture and design to fabric;

• Produces surface interest, variation in styling and unusual Produces surface interest, variation in styling and unusual

appearance in fabric; appearance in fabric;

• Hand varies soft to light and harsh to rough; Hand varies soft to light and harsh to rough;

• Strength varies different part of the fabric; Strength varies different part of the fabric;

• Ununiform thickness throughout the fabric; Ununiform thickness throughout the fabric;

• Uneven performance in wear; Reduced abrasion resistance; Uneven performance in wear; Reduced abrasion resistance;

• Pilling and snagging is critical problem. Pilling and snagging is critical problem.


TYPES OF NOVELTY YARNSTYPES OF NOVELTY YARNS

A three-ply yarn with small, tight loops protruding from the A three-ply yarn with small, tight loops protruding from the body of the yarn at widely spaced intervals.body of the yarn at widely spaced intervals.

Boucle Boucle Yarn:Yarn:

A staple yarn in which the short fibres of the yarn are brushed A staple yarn in which the short fibres of the yarn are brushed to the surface to form a soft bulked effect.to the surface to form a soft bulked effect.

Brushed / Napped Brushed / Napped Yarn:Yarn:

A yarn with pile fibres held between plied core yarns producing A yarn with pile fibres held between plied core yarns producing a hairy or velvety effect.a hairy or velvety effect.

Chenille Yarn:Chenille Yarn:



• A two-ply yarn consisting of one slack twisted and one hard-A two-ply yarn consisting of one slack twisted and one hard-twisted fine yarn. twisted fine yarn.

• The different size yarns are twisted together at a different The different size yarns are twisted together at a different rate with the thinner yarn twisting around the thicker yarn.rate with the thinner yarn twisting around the thicker yarn.

Corkscrew YarnCorkscrew Yarn::

• A single yarn in which round or elongated tufts of fibres are A single yarn in which round or elongated tufts of fibres are inserted at regular intervals. inserted at regular intervals.

• The tufts are held in place by the twist of the base yarn.The tufts are held in place by the twist of the base yarn.

Flock / Flake Yarn:Flock / Flake Yarn:



A multiple-ply yarn in which one yarn is twisted around the A multiple-ply yarn in which one yarn is twisted around the other yarn several times forming a built-up enlarged or knotted other yarn several times forming a built-up enlarged or knotted effect on the surface of the base yarn.effect on the surface of the base yarn.

Nub YarnNub Yarn::

A core yarn with a rough surface effect in an over all A core yarn with a rough surface effect in an over all appearance in which the small loops are closely spaced and appearance in which the small loops are closely spaced and securely twisted to the core yarn.securely twisted to the core yarn.

Ratine YarnRatine Yarn::

A tiny, round or oval enlarged nub produced by crimping and A tiny, round or oval enlarged nub produced by crimping and twisting a yarn repeatedly over a base yarn at regular intervals.twisting a yarn repeatedly over a base yarn at regular intervals.

Seed Yarn:Seed Yarn:



A thick and thin yarn with randomly spaced soft, lofty portions A thick and thin yarn with randomly spaced soft, lofty portions produced by irregular intervals of twist and lack of twist in the produced by irregular intervals of twist and lack of twist in the yarn formation.yarn formation.

Slub YarnSlub Yarn::

• A two-ply yarn consisting of the staple twisted soft, thick A two-ply yarn consisting of the staple twisted soft, thick yarn and one hard-twisted fine yarn. yarn and one hard-twisted fine yarn.

• The thick yarn is twisted and wound spirally around the fine The thick yarn is twisted and wound spirally around the fine yarn.yarn.

Spiral Yarn:Spiral Yarn:

An elongated enlargement or nub produced by crimping and An elongated enlargement or nub produced by crimping and twisting a yarn over base yarn at a regular intervals.twisting a yarn over base yarn at a regular intervals.

Splash Yarn:Splash Yarn:

YARNS QUALITY PARTICULARSYARNS QUALITY PARTICULARS

Yarn count /size/ finenessYarn count /size/ fineness

• Yarn count expresses the fineness or linear density of yarn. Yarn count expresses the fineness or linear density of yarn.

• It is indicated by a numerical value. It is indicated by a numerical value.

• It is the relationship between length and weight.It is the relationship between length and weight.

• Fineness of yarn is measured in weight per unit length. Fineness of yarn is measured in weight per unit length.

• In this case length is a constant factor and weight is a In this case length is a constant factor and weight is a variable.variable.

11. Direct yarn Numbering. Direct yarn Numbering


• Defined as weight in grams of 9000 meters length of yarn. Defined as weight in grams of 9000 meters length of yarn.

• As the yarn number increases, the yarn gets thicker or As the yarn number increases, the yarn gets thicker or

coarser. coarser.

• Mainly used for filament yarns.Mainly used for filament yarns.


Denier Denier



coarser. coarser.

• Applicable for all types of fibres, yarns and global markets.Applicable for all types of fibres, yarns and global markets.

TexTex




coarser. coarser.

• Applicable for all types of fibres, yarns and global markets.Applicable for all types of fibres, yarns and global markets.


DecitexDecitex


Defined as number of hanks weigh in 1 pound weight of yarnDefined as number of hanks weigh in 1 pound weight of yarn1 Hank = 840 yards1 Hank = 840 yards

•As the yarn number increases, the yarn gets thinner or finer.As the yarn number increases, the yarn gets thinner or finer. •Mainly used for cotton spun yarn, silk spun yarn, man- made / Mainly used for cotton spun yarn, silk spun yarn, man- made / synthetic spun yarn and cotton/synthetic blended spun yarns.synthetic spun yarn and cotton/synthetic blended spun yarns.

2. Indirect yarn Numbering2. Indirect yarn Numbering

Cotton count – NeCotton count – Ne

• In this system fineness of yarn is measured in length per unit In this system fineness of yarn is measured in length per unit weight. weight.

• In this case weight is a constant factor and length is a In this case weight is a constant factor and length is a variable.variable.


Defined as number of units weigh in 1 kilo gram weight of yarnDefined as number of units weigh in 1 kilo gram weight of yarn1 unit = 1000 meters1 unit = 1000 meters

•As the yarn number increases, the yarn gets thinner or finer.As the yarn number increases, the yarn gets thinner or finer.

•Mainly used for woolen and worsted yarns.Mainly used for woolen and worsted yarns.

2. Indirect yarn Numbering2. Indirect yarn Numbering

Metric count – NmMetric count – Nm


End- uses of yarn countsEnd- uses of yarn counts

Cotton yarn countCotton yarn count

1s – 20s1s – 20s Coarser Coarser countscountsCardedCarded

Furnishings, towels, and denimsFurnishings, towels, and denims

21s –21s –40s40s

Medium Medium countscountsCarded/Carded/combedcombed

Shirting’s , bottom weights and Shirting’s , bottom weights and FurnishingFurnishing

41s –41s –80s80s

Finer Finer countscountsCombedCombed

Fine quality shirting’s & Fine quality shirting’s & women’s dress materialswomen’s dress materials

80s-80s-moremore

Super fine Super fine countscountsCombedCombed

Women’s Sheer fashion fabricsWomen’s Sheer fashion fabrics


End- uses of yarn countsEnd- uses of yarn counts

Filament yarn countFilament yarn count

Yarn Yarn denierdenier

End UseEnd Use

40 -7040 -70 Sheer hosiery, Tricot lingerie, blouses, shirts, Sheer hosiery, Tricot lingerie, blouses, shirts, sheer curtainssheer curtains

75 – 75 – 120120140- 140- 200200

Crepe, chiffon, georgette, satinsCrepe, chiffon, georgette, satinsMen’s / women’s wear medium weightMen’s / women’s wear medium weight

250 -250 -520520

Outer wear, draperiesOuter wear, draperies

600- 600- 840840

UpholsteryUpholstery

10401040 Carpets, some knitting yarnsCarpets, some knitting yarns

YARNS QUALITY PARTICULARSYARNS QUALITY PARTICULARS1. Plied yarn1. Plied yarn

• A yarn composed of two or more single strands that are A yarn composed of two or more single strands that are

twisted together; twisted together;

• When untwisted, single strands can be counted; When untwisted, single strands can be counted;

• Plied yarns are identified as two, three, or four ply yarnsPlied yarns are identified as two, three, or four ply yarns

Objectives; yarns plied toObjectives; yarns plied to

• Blending of different fiber yarns; Blending of different fiber yarns;

• Combine spun and filament yarns; Combine spun and filament yarns;

• Introduce textured or novelty yarns; Introduce textured or novelty yarns;

• To improve the strength of yarn; To improve the strength of yarn;

• Minimize irregularities; Minimize irregularities;

• Utilize multi strands of of fine yarns to produce thick strand; Utilize multi strands of of fine yarns to produce thick strand;

• Modify texture and color compositionModify texture and color composition

YARNS QUALITY PARTICULARSYARNS QUALITY PARTICULARS1. Plied yarn1. Plied yarn

Characteristics of Plied yarns:Characteristics of Plied yarns:

• Thicker, heavier and courser; Differ in count; Thicker, heavier and courser; Differ in count;

• Less flexible than single yarn; Less flexible than single yarn;

• Affect drape of the fabric; Affect drape of the fabric;

• May differ in amount of twist and direction of twistMay differ in amount of twist and direction of twist

YARNS QUALITY PARTICULARSYARNS QUALITY PARTICULARSCord/ Cable-ply yarnCord/ Cable-ply yarn

• A multiple ply yarn, which is composed of two or more plied A multiple ply yarn, which is composed of two or more plied

yarns are twisted together; yarns are twisted together; • 3,6-ply cord yarn indicates that there are three plies in in the 3,6-ply cord yarn indicates that there are three plies in in the

yarn construction; yarn construction;

• Each of the three plies contains six single strands.Each of the three plies contains six single strands.

Core-spun yarnCore-spun yarn

• A yarn which has one type of fiber wrapped around the another A yarn which has one type of fiber wrapped around the another yarn. yarn.

• The structure consists of a core, which could be spandex or The structure consists of a core, which could be spandex or any other type yarn, and outer layer usually of natural, man-any other type yarn, and outer layer usually of natural, man-made or blended fiber yarn. made or blended fiber yarn.

• The inherent property of yarn is influenced by inner core; The inherent property of yarn is influenced by inner core; • The outer layer determines the hand and texture. The outer layer determines the hand and texture.

YARNS QUALITY PARTICULARSYARNS QUALITY PARTICULARS2. YARN TWIST2. YARN TWIST

• Twist, the spiral arrangement of fibres around the yarn axis; Twist, the spiral arrangement of fibres around the yarn axis;

• Twist binds the fibres together and contributes strength to the Twist binds the fibres together and contributes strength to the

yarn.yarn.

Amount of TwistAmount of Twist

The amount or degree of yarn twist is measured in number of The amount or degree of yarn twist is measured in number of turns per inch (TPI).turns per inch (TPI).

The amount of twist varies withThe amount of twist varies with

•Staple length of the fiberStaple length of the fiber

•Count of the yarnCount of the yarn

•End use of the fabricEnd use of the fabric

YARNS QUALITY PARTICULARSYARNS QUALITY PARTICULARS2. YARN TWIST2. YARN TWIST

Degree of yarn twist the following characteristics of fabricsDegree of yarn twist the following characteristics of fabrics

• HandHand

• AppearanceAppearance

• Texture Texture

• DrapeDrape

• DurabilityDurability

YARNS QUALITY PARTICULARSYARNS QUALITY PARTICULARSAmount of yarn twist and end Amount of yarn twist and end usesuses

Low twistLow twist Filament yarns; Filament yarns; 2-3 tpi2-3 tpi

smoothsmooth

Napping twist Napping twist Warp; 12 tpiWarp; 12 tpiWeft; 6-8 tpiWeft; 6-8 tpi

Bulky, soft and weakBulky, soft and weak

Average twistAverage twist Warp; 25-30 tpiWarp; 25-30 tpiWeft; 16-20 tpiWeft; 16-20 tpi

Most common, Most common, smooth,smooth,Regular, durable Regular, durable and comfortableand comfortable

Voile twistVoile twist High twisted High twisted singles 35-40 tpi singles 35-40 tpi are plied with 16-are plied with 16-18 tpi18 tpi

Finer yarns, strong Finer yarns, strong and harsher handand harsher hand

Crepe twistCrepe twist Singles 40-80 or Singles 40-80 or more tpi are plied more tpi are plied with 2-5 tpiwith 2-5 tpi

Snarling or kinkSnarling or kinkFabrics with good Fabrics with good drape and texturedrape and texture

YARNS QUALITY PARTICULARSYARNS QUALITY PARTICULARS4. Direction of yarn twist4. Direction of yarn twist

• S – Twist, when held in vertical position and twist flows up S – Twist, when held in vertical position and twist flows up

wards in left-hand direction. wards in left-hand direction.

• Z – Twist, when held in vertical position and twist flows Z – Twist, when held in vertical position and twist flows

upwards in right-hand direction. upwards in right-hand direction.

• Direction o f twists mainly affects light reflecting qualities, Direction o f twists mainly affects light reflecting qualities,

texture and hand of the fabrics. texture and hand of the fabrics.

• Z – twist is more common in both woven and knits. Z – twist is more common in both woven and knits.

YARNS QUALITY PARTICULARSYARNS QUALITY PARTICULARSBlends and Combinations Blends and Combinations

• Single yarns composed of different mixture of two or more Single yarns composed of different mixture of two or more

fibres are called blended yarns. fibres are called blended yarns.

• Blends are usually spurn yarns, however it is possible to Blends are usually spurn yarns, however it is possible to

combine two or more filament yarns to produce a filament combine two or more filament yarns to produce a filament

blend. blend.

• Fabrics produced from blended yarns are also called blends.Fabrics produced from blended yarns are also called blends.

YARNS QUALITY PARTICULARSYARNS QUALITY PARTICULARSBlends and Combinations Blends and Combinations

• Yarns produced from fibre blends in order to improve their Yarns produced from fibre blends in order to improve their

properties by drawing upon the best qualities of both fibres or properties by drawing upon the best qualities of both fibres or

to reduce cost of the product. to reduce cost of the product.

• A blend of polyester and cotton, for example, obtains high A blend of polyester and cotton, for example, obtains high

strength and wrinkle resistance from the polyester and comfort strength and wrinkle resistance from the polyester and comfort

from cotton.from cotton.

• An acrylic/ wool blend can provide a comfortable and bulky An acrylic/ wool blend can provide a comfortable and bulky

cloth at lower cost than 100% wool fabric. cloth at lower cost than 100% wool fabric.

• A blend fabric is one in which all the yarns are a homogeneous A blend fabric is one in which all the yarns are a homogeneous

and intimate mixture of two or more fibres.and intimate mixture of two or more fibres.

YARNS QUALITY PARTICULARSYARNS QUALITY PARTICULARSBlends and Combinations Blends and Combinations • It is possible to make a woven fabric in which the warp yarns It is possible to make a woven fabric in which the warp yarns

are different from the weft yarns. are different from the weft yarns.

• It is properly known as combination fabric. It is properly known as combination fabric.

• An example of this construction is an apparel fabric in which An example of this construction is an apparel fabric in which the warp yarns are 60-40 polyester/viscose blend yarn and weft the warp yarns are 60-40 polyester/viscose blend yarn and weft yarns are 100% filament polyester. yarns are 100% filament polyester.

• The polyester filament, stronger and more dimensionally The polyester filament, stronger and more dimensionally stable. stable.

• The spun yarns are more comfortable than filament yarns, and The spun yarns are more comfortable than filament yarns, and provide a better hand and surface texture to the fabric. provide a better hand and surface texture to the fabric.

• In this case, the combination fabric would perform better than In this case, the combination fabric would perform better than 100% polyester, a polyester/ viscose blend or 100% viscose 100% polyester, a polyester/ viscose blend or 100% viscose fabric.fabric.

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