yale university press, london - fashion catalogue 09/10

8/14/2019 Yale University Press, London - Fashion Catalogue 09/10

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From its origins in the eighteenth-century literature of terror to its contemporary

manifestations in vampire fiction, cinema and art, the gothic has embraced thepowers of horror and the erotic macabre. ‘Gothic’ is an epithet with a strange

history—evoking images of death, destruction and decay. Ironically, its negative

connotations have made the gothic an ideal symbol of rebellion for a wide range

of cultural outsiders. Popularly associated with black-clad teenagers and rock

musicians, gothic fashion encompasses not only subcultural styles (from old-

school goth to cyber-goth and beyond) but also high fashion by such designers as

Alexander McQueen, John Galliano of Christian Dior, Rick Owens, OlivierTheyskens and Yohji Yamamoto. As the text and lavish illustrations in this book

suggest, gothic fashion has deep cultural roots that give it an enduring potency.

Published in association with The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology

From Wonder Woman’s satin stars and golden bracelets to Batman’s brooding cape

and mask, the style of superheroes’ dress has influenced both street wear and high

fashion. This richly illustrated book explores how radical couture, avant-garde

sportswear and state-of-the-art military garments—as seen through the lens of the

superhero—can be metaphors for sex, power and politics. Beginning with the

origins of the superhero costume, this volume looks at how designers have been

influenced by iconographic components such as the cape, mask, boots and unitard.

Costumes, such as those worn by Batman and Catwoman, are examined as

reflections of sexual and physical prowess, while others, most notably those of

Superman and Captain America, are analysed as political propaganda.

Published in association with The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

fashionnow

2008 192pp. 100 colour illus.Hb ISBN 978-0-300-13694-4 £19.99*

Dark Glamour

Valerie Steele and Jennifer Park

Superheroes

Fashion and Fantasy Andrew Bolton

With an essay by Michael Chabon


Gothic

http://www.yalebooks.co.uk/yale/display.asp?K=9780300136708







fashionnow

AngloMania Tradition and Transgression

in British Fashion

Andrew Bolton With an essay by Ian Buruma

Published in association with

The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

2007 150pp. 81 colour illus.

Hb ISBN 978-0-300-11785-1 £18.50*

Fashion at the Edge Spectacle, Modernity

and Deathliness

Caroline Evans

2007 334pp. 100 b/ w + 100 colour illus.Pb ISBN 978-0-300-12467-5 £19.99*

Extreme Beauty The Body Transformed

Harold Koda



2004 192pp. 228 colour illus.Pb ISBN 978-0-300-10312-0 £19.95*

Wild Fashion Untamed

Andrew Bolton



2004 180pp. 32 b/w + 65 colour illus.Pb ISBN 978-0-300-10638-1 £14.99*















fashiondesigners

While the classically inspired ‘Grecian’ gown designed by Madame Alix Grès is

widely recognised and admired, little else of the brilliant couturier’s life or work

has received close attention. This book, by far the most detailed study yet

published on this influential fashion designer, carefully analyses Madame Grès’

innovative construction techniques and connects her designs to the art styles and

movements that inspired and informed her aesthetic.

“Mears brings to her subject a genuine appreciation for the engineering that

formed the basis of Grès’s innovation and for her tenacious, obsessive pursuit of

custom techniques that were inherently uncommercial, severely curtailing theexpansion of her business empire.”

—Holly Brubach, New York Times, Style Magazine

In the annals of fashion history, French couturier Paul Poiret is known for

liberating women from corsets and introducing pantaloons for women. However,

it is Poiret’s innovations in the cut and construction of clothing, made all the

more remarkable by the fact that he could not sew, that secures his legacy. This

essential book is the first to explore Poiret’s radical modernity from a number of

perspectives. Essays by renowned scholars describe the historical context of his

work; its relation to the dominant artistic discourses of the early twentieth

century; his muse, Denise Poiret, and her influence on his work; and his role in

the paradigmatic shift to a new ideal of feminine beauty.

“destined to become a collectors item”—Richard Edmonds, Birmingham Post

Published in association with The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Madame Grès Sphinx of Fashion

Patricia Mears


Poiret

Harold Koda and Andrew Bolton With an introduction by N ancy J. Troy

Contributions by Caroline Evans, Heather

Hess, Jared Goss and Caroline Milbank


Hb ISBN 978-0-300-12029-5 £29.99*









Chanel Harold Koda

and Andrew Bolton With contributions from

Karl Lagerfeld




Balenciaga and His Legacy Haute Couture from the

Texas Fashion Collection

Myra Walker


The Meadows Museum, Dallas

2006 225pp. 40 b/ w + 112 colour illus.

Hb ISBN 978-0-300-12153-7 £30.00*

Fashion,

Italian Style Valerie Steele

Published in association with The Museum

at the Fashion Institute of Technology

2003 144pp. 5 b/ w + 132 colour illus.Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10014-3 £20.00*

Ralph Rucci The Art of Weightlessness

Valerie Steele, Patricia Mears

and Clare Sauro

Published in association with The Museum

at the Fashion Institute of Technology


fashiondesigners

















Bejewelled by Tiffany 1837–1987

Clare Phillips • With contributions

by Vivienne Becker, Ulysses Grant

Dietz, Alice Cooney Frelinghuysen,

John Loring and Katherine Purcell

The Gilbert Collection Trust/Tiffany & Co.


Hb ISBN 978-0-300-11651-9 £45.00*

Georg Jensen

Jewelry Edited by David A. Taylor

Published in association with the

Bard Graduate Center for Studies in

the Decorative Arts, Design and Culture

2005 400pp. 70 b/ w + 330 colour illus.ISBN 978-0-300-10706-7 £35.00*

fashionaccessories

Fabergé, Tiffany, Lalique—these great designers came together only once to

display their goods in what was probably the most opulent exhibition evermounted. At the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris, the three strove to position

themselves ahead of their many competitors in the luxury market, each presenting

his jewellery and home adornments as high art. Their success is explored in this

splendidly illustrated catalogue, which elucidates the prewar pinnacle of European

culture. The array of displayed objects was mesmerising: Tiffany glass, Easter eggs

to dazzle the Czars, realistic insects created in precious materials as sinister

decorations. Many of these bore influences of the advanced art of the time, such

as Art Nouveau, Viennese modernism and symbolism and of styles from around

the world.

Published in association with the Cleveland Museum of Art

January 2009 288pp. approx. 300 colour illus.Hb ISBN 978-0-300-14224-2 £40.00*

Artistic Luxury Fabergé, Tiffany, Lalique

Edited by Stephen Harrison Essays by Emmanuel Ducamp

and Jeannine Falino













fashion&design

Marimekko Fabrics, Fashion,

Architecture

Edited by Marianne Aav


Wearing Propaganda Textiles on the Home Front in Japan,

Britain, and the United States

1931–1945

Jacqueline M. Atkins





Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10925-2 £35.00*

Glamour Fashion, Industrial Design,

Architecture

Edited by Joseph Rosa

Published with the San Francisco

Museum of Modern Art


Candace W heeler The Art and Enterprise of American

Design, 1875–1900

Amelia Peck and Carol Irish


















fashionhistory

The Corset A Cultural History

Valerie Steele

2001 208pp. 110 b/ w + 30 colour illus.Pb ISBN 978-0-300-09953-9 £15.00*

Grace Kelly Icon of Style to Royal Bride

H. Kristina Haugland

Published with the

Philadelphia Museum of Art


Pb ISBN 978-0-300-11644-1 £12.99*

Fifty Years of Fashion New Look to Now

Valerie Steele


Pb ISBN 978-0-300-08738-3 £14.00*

Goddess The Classical Mode

Harold Koda



2003 224pp. 28 b/w + 85 colour illus.Hb ISBN 978-0-300-09882-2 £25.00*















fashionhistory

Plumes Ostrich Feathers, Jews,

and a Lost World of

Global Commerce

Sarah Abrevaya Stein

January 2009 224pp. 17 b/ w illus. + 1 map

Hb ISBN 978-0-300-12736-2 £18.00*

Dangerous Liaisons Fashion and Furniture in

the Eighteenth Century

Harold Koda, Andrew Bolton

and Daniëlle Kisluk-Grosheide




Silk Mary Schoeser With a foreword by

Julien Macdonald


The London Look Fashion from Street

to Catwalk

Christopher Breward, Edwina

Ehrman and Caroline Evans


Museum of London


Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10399-1 £25.00*















The Dress of the People Everyday Fashion in

Eighteenth-Century England

John Styles


Fashion and Fiction Dress in Art and Literature

in Stuart England

Aileen Ribeiro

Published for the Paul Mellon Centre

for Studies in British Art


Sarah Bernhardt The Art of High Drama Carol Ockman and Kenneth E. Silver


The Jewish Museum, NY


Hb ISBN 978-0-300-10919-1 £29.95*

Dress in the

Middle Ages Françoise Piponnier

and Perrine Mane

1997 176pp. 60 illus.Pb ISBN 978-0-300-08691-1 £12.99*

fashionhistory

















fashionhistory

Dressed to Rule Royal and Court Costume

From Louis XIV to Elizabeth II

Philip Mansel


Women Designers in t he USA, 1900–2000 Diversity and Difference

Edited by Pat Kirkham




2002 464pp. 50 b/ w + 300 colour illus.Pb ISBN 978-0-300-09331-5 £25.00

fashion forthcoming

The Empire’s New

Clothes A History of the Russian Fashion Industry,

1700–1917

Christine Ruane

April 2009 256pp. 70 b/ w + 50 colour illus.

Hb ISBN 978-0-300-14155-9 £35.00*

Models & Muses Fashioning the Ideal

Harold Koda

and Kohle Yohannan

Models & Musesexplores fashion’s

reciprocal relationship to iconic beautiesthat represent the evolution and

changing face of the feminine ideal.

Featuring a brief historical overview of

the phenomenon of the supermodel,

the book begins in the early twentieth

century and continues to the present

day. With an emphasis on styles from

the 1950s onward, the book featuresdesigns from the great ready-to-wear

and couture houses.



May 2009 200pp. 175 colour illus.Hb ISBN 978-0-300-14893-0 £30.00*















Y0702

fashion

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Front cover: Olivier Theyskens, Gloomy Trips, 1997.

Styling by Olivier Theyskens. Photograph courtesy Les Cyclopes.From: Gothic: Dark Glamour by Valerie Steele and Jennifer Park.

yale university press, london - fashion catalogue 09/10

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