CHAPTER THREE:CHAPTER THREE:

FABRIC FABRIC DESIGNDESIGN

3.1 Fundamental Weaves3.1 Fundamental Weaves Weft or warp threads must have only Weft or warp threads must have only

one warp or weft overlapping within the one warp or weft overlapping within the repeat.repeat.

The number of warp threads in a repeat The number of warp threads in a repeat must be equal to the number threads.must be equal to the number threads.

There are 3 kinds of fundamental There are 3 kinds of fundamental weaves:weaves: PlainPlain TwillTwill SateenSateen

Each weave is determined by 2 Each weave is determined by 2 parameters:parameters: The repeat, R of weave.The repeat, R of weave. The shift, S of overlapping either The shift, S of overlapping either

vertical shift, Svertical shift, Sxx or Horizontal shift, S or Horizontal shift, Syy

3.1.2 Plain Weave3.1.2 Plain Weave

The simplest weave where The simplest weave where the threads interlace in the threads interlace in alternate order and classified alternate order and classified as balanced and unbalanced.as balanced and unbalanced.

In trade, such terms as tabby, In trade, such terms as tabby, calico, batiste are applied to calico, batiste are applied to plain weave fabrics.plain weave fabrics.

3.1.3 Twill Weaves3.1.3 Twill Weaves The twill order of The twill order of

interlacing produces interlacing produces diagonal lines on the diagonal lines on the cloth.cloth.

The purpose is to make The purpose is to make cloth havier, closer setting cloth havier, closer setting and better drapping.and better drapping.

The parameters: R ≥ 3 The parameters: R ≥ 3 SSx x = S= Syy = = ++ 1 1

3.1.4 Regular Sateen and Satin 3.1.4 Regular Sateen and Satin and Irregular Sateen Weavesand Irregular Sateen Weaves

3.1.4.1 Sateen Weaves3.1.4.1 Sateen Weaves In pure sateen weaves the surface of In pure sateen weaves the surface of

the cloth consists almost entirely of the cloth consists almost entirely of weft floats.weft floats.

The parameters of sateen weaves: R The parameters of sateen weaves: R ≥ 5; 1 < S < (R – 1)≥ 5; 1 < S < (R – 1)

For regular sateen the shift (S) and For regular sateen the shift (S) and repeat (R) must be expressed by repeat (R) must be expressed by prime numbers, it’s called weft face prime numbers, it’s called weft face fabric.fabric.

The sateen weave is denoted by a The sateen weave is denoted by a fraction and the numerator of this fraction and the numerator of this fraction is equal to the repeat of fraction is equal to the repeat of weave.weave.

The denominator is equal to the shift The denominator is equal to the shift (S(Syy) of overlaps.) of overlaps.

3.1.4.2 Satin (Warp Face Fabric)3.1.4.2 Satin (Warp Face Fabric)

Usually constructed Usually constructed using the vertical using the vertical shift (Sshift (Sxx).).

Satin has the warp Satin has the warp effect, and the effect, and the density of warp is density of warp is much higher than much higher than the density of weft.the density of weft.

Sx=3

3.1.4.3 Irregular Sateen3.1.4.3 Irregular Sateen Regular sateen cannot be constructed Regular sateen cannot be constructed

with a repeat of four or six threads, with a repeat of four or six threads, because the repeat and shift cannot be because the repeat and shift cannot be expressed by mutually prime numbers.expressed by mutually prime numbers.

It is impossible to construct the regular It is impossible to construct the regular sateen if R = 6, because among the sateen if R = 6, because among the possible values of shift found from the possible values of shift found from the formula 1 < S < (R - 1), i.e. 1 < S < 5, formula 1 < S < (R - 1), i.e. 1 < S < 5, the number 2, 3, 4 have a common the number 2, 3, 4 have a common divisor with 6.divisor with 6.

In this case, we cannot choose a In this case, we cannot choose a constant shift, but the sateen with a constant shift, but the sateen with a variable shift can be constructed.variable shift can be constructed.

This sateen is called irregular sateen.This sateen is called irregular sateen. 4-shaft irregular sateen can be 4-shaft irregular sateen can be

constructed by using the shifts 1, 2, 3, 2 constructed by using the shifts 1, 2, 3, 2 as shown aside.as shown aside.

6-shaft irregular sateen with constructed 6-shaft irregular sateen with constructed shifts 2, 3, 4, 4, 3, 2 as shown aside.shifts 2, 3, 4, 4, 3, 2 as shown aside.

3.2 Derivatives of 3.2 Derivatives of Fundamental WeavesFundamental Weaves

““Constructed by means of deriving from Constructed by means of deriving from plain, twill and sateen weaves, and retain plain, twill and sateen weaves, and retain

their structural features”their structural features”

3.2.1 Plain Weave Derivatives3.2.1 Plain Weave Derivatives

This group of structure comprises various This group of structure comprises various simple weave which are varieties of the simple weave which are varieties of the plain weave and can be produced on two plain weave and can be produced on two heald shafts.heald shafts.

Warp Rep Weaves:Warp Rep Weaves: Denoted by a fraction.Denoted by a fraction. The numerator shows the The numerator shows the

number of warp overlapping number of warp overlapping and the denominator, the and the denominator, the number of weft overlapping on number of weft overlapping on the same thread within repeat.the same thread within repeat.

Extending the plain weave Extending the plain weave vertically.vertically.

Weft Rep Weave:Weft Rep Weave: Opposite to warp rep Opposite to warp rep

weave.weave. Extending the plain Extending the plain

weave horizontally.weave horizontally. Denoted by a fraction.Denoted by a fraction. Sum of the fraction Sum of the fraction

numerator and numerator and denominator equal to the denominator equal to the

warp repeat.warp repeat.

Rug from Rep Weave:Rug from Rep Weave:

Hopsack Weaves:Hopsack Weaves: Constructed by extending the Constructed by extending the

plain weave both vertically and plain weave both vertically and horizontally.horizontally.

There are 2 or more warp threads There are 2 or more warp threads working in the same manner and working in the same manner and 2 or more weft threads grouped 2 or more weft threads grouped in the same shed.in the same shed.

It’s denoted by a fraction, the It’s denoted by a fraction, the numerator is the number of warp numerator is the number of warp overlapping, and the denominator overlapping, and the denominator is that of weft overlapping on is that of weft overlapping on each thread.each thread.

The sum of the numerator and The sum of the numerator and denominator shows the repeat on denominator shows the repeat on warp and weft.warp and weft.

Fabric from Hopsack Weave:

Fabric from Hopsack Weave:

3.2.2 Weaves Constructed on Twill 3.2.2 Weaves Constructed on Twill BasesBases Regular twill are often used as the bases Regular twill are often used as the bases

for the construction of new weaves.for the construction of new weaves.

Reinforced Twills:Reinforced Twills: Warp overlaps are added to the single Warp overlaps are added to the single

warp overlaps of the basic weft-face warp overlaps of the basic weft-face twill.twill.

The simplest reinforced twill is twill 2/2 The simplest reinforced twill is twill 2/2 (widely used).(widely used).

In producing this twill the same four In producing this twill the same four shafts can be used for making the shafts can be used for making the selvedges on the warp rep weave selvedges on the warp rep weave (necessary to coordinate the operation (necessary to coordinate the operation of shedding and picking mechanisms).of shedding and picking mechanisms).

Retain the property of the original twill.Retain the property of the original twill.

Reinforced twill 2/2 (left hand twill, Sy = -1)

Compound Twill:Compound Twill: It is obtained in parallel It is obtained in parallel

construction of two or more construction of two or more twill weaves on the same twill weaves on the same area.area.

The number of shafts for The number of shafts for producing compound twill is producing compound twill is equal to its repeat.equal to its repeat.

Retain the property of the Retain the property of the original twill.original twill.

Fabric from compound twill:

Angled Twill:Angled Twill:

Constructed by changing the sign of shift from plus to minus, Constructed by changing the sign of shift from plus to minus, after an assigned number of threads.after an assigned number of threads.

With the change of sign, the direction of twill diagonal is also With the change of sign, the direction of twill diagonal is also changed.changed.

To construct: To construct: i. Calculate its repeati. Calculate its repeat

ii. Weft repeat = Repeat of basic twillii. Weft repeat = Repeat of basic twill

iii. Warp repeat can be determined by the formula, iii. Warp repeat can be determined by the formula, RRxx = 2K = 2Kxx - 2 - 2

RRxx = repeat of warp = repeat of warp

KKxx = number of warp threads after the sign of shift = number of warp threads after the sign of shift

changes. changes.

RRybyb = repeat of the basic twill = repeat of the basic twill

KKyy = no of weft threads after the sign of shit changes = no of weft threads after the sign of shit changes

Example:Example:Construct the angled twill on the basis of twill Construct the angled twill on the basis of twill 2/4. The repeat of basis twill is 6.2/4. The repeat of basis twill is 6.

Answer:Answer:

RRyy = R = Rybyb = 6 = 6

RRxx = 2K = 2Kxx – 2 = 2 (6) – 2 = 10 – 2 = 2 (6) – 2 = 10

Diagonal Twill:Diagonal Twill: Construct the basic twill with an increased vertical shift (to Construct the basic twill with an increased vertical shift (to

increase the inclination angle of the diagonal changes).increase the inclination angle of the diagonal changes). The increase of the shift from one to two is equivalent to the The increase of the shift from one to two is equivalent to the

doubling of warp density (practically the shift can be doubling of warp density (practically the shift can be accepted equal to two or three).accepted equal to two or three).

Can be constructed into 2 cases:Can be constructed into 2 cases:

i. The repeat of basic twill can be divided by the increased i. The repeat of basic twill can be divided by the increased shift.shift.

Warp repeat, RWarp repeat, Rxx = R ÷ S = R ÷ Soo

Weft repeat, RWeft repeat, Ryy = R = R

ii. The repeat of the basic twill cannot be divided by the ii. The repeat of the basic twill cannot be divided by the increased shift.increased shift.

Example 1:Example 1:Construct a diagonal weave on the basis of Construct a diagonal weave on the basis of twill twill 4 . 4 . 14 . 4 . 1 , if S , if Sxx = 2. = 2.1 . 2 . 21 . 2 . 2Answer:Answer:

Warp repeat;Warp repeat;

RRxx = R ÷ S = R ÷ Sxx R = 14R = 14

= 14 ÷ 2= 14 ÷ 2 SSxx = 2 = 2

= 7= 7

Weft repeat;Weft repeat;

RRyy = R = R

= 14= 14 First warp constructed according the basic First warp constructed according the basic

twill.twill. Second warp constructed according to the Second warp constructed according to the

same formula but the shift equal to two, and same formula but the shift equal to two, and so on.so on.

If the repeat of the basis twill is nit divided If the repeat of the basis twill is nit divided by the increased shift the diagonal weave by the increased shift the diagonal weave will have will have repeat repeat RRxx = R = Ryy = R. = R.

Example 2:Example 2:Construct a diagonal weave on the basis of Construct a diagonal weave on the basis of twill twill 5 . 1 . 15 . 1 . 1 , if S , if Sxx= 2= 21 . 2 . 11 . 2 . 1

Answer:Answer:

In this case, RIn this case, Rxx = 11 = 11

and Rand Ryy = 11 = 11

Fabric from diagonal twill:

Shaded Twill:Shaded Twill:Represent a gradual transition from twill with Represent a gradual transition from twill with

weft effect to the twill with warp effect and vice-weft effect to the twill with warp effect and vice-versa.versa.

Mostly used Jacquard weaving for large-pattern Mostly used Jacquard weaving for large-pattern fabrics.fabrics.

The repeat on warp and weft for the shaded The repeat on warp and weft for the shaded twill is determined by the formula;twill is determined by the formula;

Warp repeat, RWarp repeat, Rxx = R = Rxbxb (R (Rxbxb – 1) – 1)

Weft repeat, RWeft repeat, Ryy = R = Rybyb

Only straight draft is used.Only straight draft is used.

Example:Example:Construct a shaded twill weave on the transitions of shaded twill Construct a shaded twill weave on the transitions of shaded twill 1 1 to to 4 4 . .

4 1 4 1

Answer:Answer:

RRxx = R = Rxbxb (R (Rxbxb – 1) – 1)

= 5 (5 -1)= 5 (5 -1)

= 5 X 4= 5 X 4

= 20= 20

RRyy = R = Rybyb

= 5= 5

Fabric from shaded twill:

3.2.3 Weaves Constructed 3.2.3 Weaves Constructed on Sateen Baseson Sateen Bases

In simple derivatives, a new design is In simple derivatives, a new design is built up by using the original sateen as built up by using the original sateen as the base and adding overlaps, as the base and adding overlaps, as required to each base overlap.required to each base overlap.

Reinforced Sateen:Reinforced Sateen: Similar to reinforced twill.Similar to reinforced twill. If it is necessary to construct the reinforced sateen on If it is necessary to construct the reinforced sateen on

the basis of simple sateen 8/5.the basis of simple sateen 8/5. One more overlap should be added to every overlap One more overlap should be added to every overlap

of the basis sateen.of the basis sateen. Widely used in cotton weaving (additional overlaps in Widely used in cotton weaving (additional overlaps in

the repeat make the fabric the repeat make the fabric structure stronger).structure stronger).

Shaded Sateen:Shaded Sateen: Like the shaded twill.Like the shaded twill. Shaded sateen represents a gradual Shaded sateen represents a gradual

transition from the sateen with weft transition from the sateen with weft effect to the sateen with warp effect, effect to the sateen with warp effect, vice versa.vice versa.

The repeat RThe repeat Ryy and R and Roo of the shaded of the shaded

sateen is determined by the formula;sateen is determined by the formula; RRyy = R = Rybyb

RRoo = R = Rob ob (R(Robob – 1) – 1)

Example:Construct a shaded sateen weave on the transitions of shaded sateen 5/3.Answer:Ry – Ryb = 5Ro = Rob (Rob -1) = 5 (5 – 1) = 5 X 4 = 20

3.3 Combined or Fancy 3.3 Combined or Fancy WeavesWeaves

““These weaves are constructed on These weaves are constructed on the basis of two or more the basis of two or more

fundamental weaves and their fundamental weaves and their derivatives. Divided into groups of derivatives. Divided into groups of crepe weaves, honeycomb weaves, crepe weaves, honeycomb weaves,

corkscrew weaves, huckaback corkscrew weaves, huckaback weaves, stripe and check weaves”weaves, stripe and check weaves”

3.3.1 Crepe Weaves3.3.1 Crepe Weaves

Crepe weave are characterized by a Crepe weave are characterized by a pebbly or crinkle surface.pebbly or crinkle surface.

The size of pebbles and their The size of pebbles and their arrangement on the fabric surface arrangement on the fabric surface determine the type of crepe fabric determine the type of crepe fabric (crepe-de-chine, crepe-georgette and (crepe-de-chine, crepe-georgette and so on).so on).

Georgette: Georgette describes a sheer silk (or silk-like) fabric with a dull, creped surface.

Crepe-de-chine:

Construction of Crepe by Drawing Construction of Crepe by Drawing One Weave Over the Other:One Weave Over the Other:

Choose at least two weaves (one of the weave is Sateen).Choose at least two weaves (one of the weave is Sateen). Warp repeat determines the number of shafts (type of shedding motion Warp repeat determines the number of shafts (type of shedding motion

of the loom should be taken into consideration).of the loom should be taken into consideration). It is common to choose the second weave with the same repeat as the It is common to choose the second weave with the same repeat as the

first one. If the second weave is not equal the repeat of the crepe first one. If the second weave is not equal the repeat of the crepe weave is found as the least common multiple of the repeats of base weave is found as the least common multiple of the repeats of base weaves.weaves.

Construction of Crepe by Construction of Crepe by Arranging the Warp Overlaps in Arranging the Warp Overlaps in Sateen Order:Sateen Order:

Constructed on the basis of sateen weave by adding Constructed on the basis of sateen weave by adding the warp overlaps.the warp overlaps.

Different groups containing two or more shaded Different groups containing two or more shaded squares can be added at one of the sides of each of squares can be added at one of the sides of each of shaded squares arranged in sateen order.shaded squares arranged in sateen order.

Construction of Crepe by Rearranging Construction of Crepe by Rearranging WarpWarp

Twill weave can be chosen as basic weave.Twill weave can be chosen as basic weave. The order of warp threads of the base weave should be changed.The order of warp threads of the base weave should be changed. The warp repeat changed very often but the weft repeat remains. The warp repeat changed very often but the weft repeat remains.

(These crepe weave can be produced on the same number of shaft).(These crepe weave can be produced on the same number of shaft). The arrangement is done by changing the position of threads on the The arrangement is done by changing the position of threads on the

shafts and then constructing the weaving plan.shafts and then constructing the weaving plan. The construction begins with the lifting plan, where the crosses are The construction begins with the lifting plan, where the crosses are

placed in the same manner as the shaded squares in the base weave.placed in the same manner as the shaded squares in the base weave. The lifting plan determines the number of shafts in the draft.The lifting plan determines the number of shafts in the draft. Arrange the warp threads on the shafts.Arrange the warp threads on the shafts. No general rules for the arrangement of the warp threads because a No general rules for the arrangement of the warp threads because a

variety of arrangements are possible (depends on the designer).variety of arrangements are possible (depends on the designer).

Example:Example:

3.3.2 Honeycomb Weave or 3.3.2 Honeycomb Weave or Cellular FabricsCellular Fabrics

A group of weaves forms an A group of weaves forms an embossed cell-like appearance of embossed cell-like appearance of fabric. fabric.

Widely used for bathroom towels, Widely used for bathroom towels, bed covers, quilts, winter garment, bed covers, quilts, winter garment, etc.etc.

Example 1:Example 1: The pointed draft should be drawn with the The pointed draft should be drawn with the

number of shafts from 4 to 8.number of shafts from 4 to 8. The example used the number of shafts The example used the number of shafts

equals 5, A.equals 5, A. The number of crosses for lifting plan The number of crosses for lifting plan

equal to the number of circles on the draft equal to the number of circles on the draft (the arrangement similar to the position of (the arrangement similar to the position of circles).circles).

The space under the lines of crosses is The space under the lines of crosses is filled in with crosses is filled in with crosses filled in with crosses is filled in with crosses leaving one row of squares between the leaving one row of squares between the space and the lines of crosses blank.space and the lines of crosses blank.

The third element, weave diagram are The third element, weave diagram are formed by both element; drafting and lifting formed by both element; drafting and lifting plan.plan.

As a result when all the repeat combined a As a result when all the repeat combined a hollow is formed in the centre part.hollow is formed in the centre part.

Example 2:Example 2:

3.3.3 Corkscrew Weaves3.3.3 Corkscrew Weaves Kind of diagonal rib weaves.Kind of diagonal rib weaves. Two types of corkscrew weaves:Two types of corkscrew weaves:

1.1. Warp CorkscrewWarp Corkscrew• Long warp floats on the face and on the wrong Long warp floats on the face and on the wrong

side of the fabric.side of the fabric.• It has greater warp density compare to weft and It has greater warp density compare to weft and

the weave produces warp effect on both side of the weave produces warp effect on both side of the fabric.the fabric.

2.2. Weft CorkscrewWeft Corkscrew• It has a weft surface.It has a weft surface.

Warp CorkscrewWarp Corkscrew Constructed on the basis Constructed on the basis

of sateen weaves such as, of sateen weaves such as, 5/2, 7/2, 9/2, 13/2, i.e. with 5/2, 7/2, 9/2, 13/2, i.e. with odd numbers of threads in odd numbers of threads in the repeat.the repeat.

It can be considered as a It can be considered as a derivative of sateen derivative of sateen weave.weave.

Constructed by adding the Constructed by adding the marks on the fundamental marks on the fundamental sateen weave.sateen weave.

Weft CorkscrewWeft Corkscrew

Constructed by turning warp Constructed by turning warp corkscrew into weft corkscrew corkscrew into weft corkscrew weave by rotating the weave weave by rotating the weave diagram by 90º and then by diagram by 90º and then by substituting the warp overlaps substituting the warp overlaps with the weft ones, and vice with the weft ones, and vice versa, A.versa, A.

The direction of diagonal ribs The direction of diagonal ribs of the weave can be changed, of the weave can be changed, if necessary, by rearranging if necessary, by rearranging the weft threads in the the weft threads in the reverse order.reverse order.

3.3.4 Huckaback weaves3.3.4 Huckaback weaves

Contains, on one hand, a Contains, on one hand, a number of warp and weft number of warp and weft threads with long floats which threads with long floats which make the fabric soft and make the fabric soft and moisture absorbent, and on moisture absorbent, and on the other hand, the plain the other hand, the plain weave threads which ensure weave threads which ensure the firmness of the structure.the firmness of the structure.

Used for bathroom towels, Used for bathroom towels, glass cloths, and for glass cloths, and for counterpanes.counterpanes.

Constructed on the basis of Constructed on the basis of plain weave.plain weave.

Example 2:Example 2: The use of long floats in each The use of long floats in each

quarter of repeat.quarter of repeat. If there are long warp floats in If there are long warp floats in

the left bottom and right top the left bottom and right top quarters, the long weft floats are quarters, the long weft floats are constructed in the left top and constructed in the left top and right bottom quarters.right bottom quarters.

The long warp floats on the The long warp floats on the threads 2, 4, 9 and 11 on the threads 2, 4, 9 and 11 on the face of the weave.face of the weave.

4 long weft floats are placed on 4 long weft floats are placed on the threads 3, 5, 8 and 10 where the threads 3, 5, 8 and 10 where the weft thread in the place of the weft thread in the place of float passes over 5 warp threads.float passes over 5 warp threads.

3.4 Compound Weaves3.4 Compound Weaves

““Compound weave fabric are of Compound weave fabric are of a specific structure, therefore a specific structure, therefore

special methods and special methods and mechanisms used in their mechanisms used in their

production”production”

3.4.1 Back Warp Weaves3.4.1 Back Warp Weaves

It is applies when it is necessary to It is applies when it is necessary to increase the thickness or the mass increase the thickness or the mass

of the fabric by adding warp system.of the fabric by adding warp system.

Construction:1.Choose the weave of the face (the warp-faced weaves is chosen as the base weaves). Example twill 3/1, A (the base weave must have long weft floats on the back side.2.The warp and weft repeat of this weave equals 4.3.The roman digits used to mark the threads of the face weave.4.The section cut through the warp at the weft thread 1.5.The section for warp threads are represented circles of the upper row, and back warp by the circles of the lower row.6.Weft thread 1, is placed below warp threads 1, 2, 3 and above 4.7.To bind, the suitable thread is warp thread II because the point of binding is in the middle of long float of the fabric (it is also for better appearance).8.The weft thread 1 has to be interlaced with the warp threads of both systems.9.The interlacing of the weft thread 1 with the back warp at B can be transferred to the diagram C.

10.10.The face and back warp The face and back warp threads are arranged threads are arranged alternately or in the alternately or in the proportion of one face proportion of one face thread to one thread, D.thread to one thread, D.

11.11.The cross section of the The cross section of the fabric through the weft fabric through the weft thread 1 is represented at thread 1 is represented at E.E.

12.12.The longitudinal section of The longitudinal section of the fabric through the the fabric through the warp threads 1 and I is warp threads 1 and I is shown at F.shown at F.

13.13.The weaving plan is The weaving plan is shown at G (divided draft shown at G (divided draft is suitable in this case).is suitable in this case).

14.14.4 front heald shafts are 4 front heald shafts are used for a face warp and used for a face warp and 4 other shaft for a back 4 other shaft for a back warp.warp.

15.15.The ratio of the face and The ratio of the face and back warps is 1:1, 2 warp back warps is 1:1, 2 warp threads should be drawn threads should be drawn in one dent of the reed in one dent of the reed (the face and back (the face and back threads).threads).

3.4.2 Back Weft Weaves3.4.2 Back Weft Weaves

To increase either the To increase either the thickness or mass of the thickness or mass of the

fabric.fabric.

2 systems of weft and one 2 systems of weft and one system of warp.system of warp.

Construction:Construction:

1.1. Choose either warp-faced or weft-Choose either warp-faced or weft-faced weave.faced weave.

2.2. Long warp overlaps are necessary Long warp overlaps are necessary on the back side of the weave for on the back side of the weave for binding the back weft to the fabrics.binding the back weft to the fabrics.

3.3. Weft-face weave should be Weft-face weave should be chosen.chosen.

4.4. Example, weft-faced twill 1/3,A.Example, weft-faced twill 1/3,A.

5.5. The longitudinal section of the The longitudinal section of the fabric at warp 1 is shown at B (weft fabric at warp 1 is shown at B (weft threads are arranged in 2 vertical threads are arranged in 2 vertical rows).rows).

6.6. There is a long float of the warp There is a long float of the warp thread on the back side of the thread on the back side of the weave.weave.

7.7. The most suitable point of binding The most suitable point of binding is the middle of the long float.is the middle of the long float.

8.8. The interlacing of the warp and the The interlacing of the warp and the back weft, C.back weft, C.

9.9. In this double weft In this double weft weave, the face and weave, the face and back weft threads back weft threads alternate with each alternate with each other, D.other, D.

10.10.The longitudinal The longitudinal section of the section of the weave is, F and the weave is, F and the cross section at the cross section at the weft threads 1 and I, weft threads 1 and I, at E.at E.

11.11.The weaving plan is The weaving plan is shown at G. The shown at G. The warp repeat of this warp repeat of this weave is 4, so the 4 weave is 4, so the 4 heald shaft are heald shaft are sufficient. The sufficient. The straight draft is straight draft is used.used.

3.4.3 Terry Toweling 3.4.3 Terry Toweling WeavesWeaves

Characterized by the formation of loops which are raised Characterized by the formation of loops which are raised above the surface of the fabric either on one or both sides.above the surface of the fabric either on one or both sides.

Used for toweling, bath mats, bed covers and dress Used for toweling, bath mats, bed covers and dress (posses good wet ability, hygroscopisity and heat (posses good wet ability, hygroscopisity and heat conductivity).conductivity).

Two systems of warp threads and one system of weft Two systems of warp threads and one system of weft threads are usually used.threads are usually used.

One warp interlacing with weft forms the ground structure.One warp interlacing with weft forms the ground structure. The second warp is used for forming the loops which are The second warp is used for forming the loops which are

firmly held in the ground structure.firmly held in the ground structure.

A

Construction:Construction:

1.1. There should be two weaver’s beams There should be two weaver’s beams (difference tension during weaving).(difference tension during weaving).

2.2. The ground warp has a great tension. The The ground warp has a great tension. The warp is loosely held in the loom.warp is loosely held in the loom.

3.3. The loom equipped with a special slay The loom equipped with a special slay motion, where the first two strokes of reed motion, where the first two strokes of reed are shot, but the third one is normal.are shot, but the third one is normal.

4.4. The loop threads, marked by Arabic digits, The loop threads, marked by Arabic digits, alternate with ground threads which are alternate with ground threads which are marked by roman digits.marked by roman digits.

5.5. Two warp repeats and four weft repeats, Two warp repeats and four weft repeats, B and C.B and C.

6.6. The simple base weave used to construct The simple base weave used to construct this terry weave.this terry weave.

7.7. The interlacing of weft threads with the The interlacing of weft threads with the ground warp threads is shown at B, and ground warp threads is shown at B, and that with loop warp threads at C.that with loop warp threads at C.

8.8. Four heald shafts are sufficient for Four heald shafts are sufficient for producing this weave. The divided draft is producing this weave. The divided draft is preferable.preferable.

9.9. The longitudinal section of this weave is The longitudinal section of this weave is shown at D.shown at D.

Fabric in which the loops are distributed on face surface

3.5 Jacquard Weaves 3.5 Jacquard Weaves

Large patterns fabrics using several Large patterns fabrics using several hundreds warp threads interlacing hundreds warp threads interlacing

with the same number of weft with the same number of weft threads in the repeat equipped with threads in the repeat equipped with a particular type of shedding motion a particular type of shedding motion

called Jacquard machine.called Jacquard machine.