KT Tunstall talks about her love for single malts and the stories behind

them

ONLY THE

PURIST WILL DO

WORLD OF WHISKY

PHOTO: SIMON EMMETT

Rachel Barrie Discusses thepassion behind the blending

Premium whiskiesReal quality that reassures consumers

GLENMORANGIE THE SCOTCH WHISKY ASSOCIATION

No.3/Dec ’10A SUPPLEMENT BY MEDIAPLANET DISTRIBUTED WITHIN THE INDEPENDENT

INSIGHTINTO WHISKY

A SPECIAL

2 · DECEMBER 2010 A SUPPLEMENT BY MEDIAPLANET DISTRIBUTED WITHIN THE INDEPENDENT

A perfect blend of flavour and heritage

Scotland’s famous export provides 25 per cent of UK food and drink exports, but the industry won’t rest on its laurels. New distilleries are springing up and there is a big focus on sustainability and renewable energy

‘There are so many new microbreweries in the US it’s impossible to count them all’

Dave BroomAuthor of the World Atlas of Whisky

WE RECOMMEND

PAGE 8

KT Tunstall p. 41. Her love for single malts

Innovations in whisky p. 62. How smaller companies are leading the way

WORLD OF WHISKY, 3RD EDITION, DECEMBER 2010

Managing Director: Willem De GeerEditorial Manager: Katherine Woodley

Sales Manager: Simon Kenneally

Responsible for this issue: Dominic WebberPhone: 020 7665 4409E-mail: dominic.webber@mediaplanet.com

Distributed with: The Independent Print: The Independent

Mediaplanet contact information: Phone: 020 7665 4400Fax: 020 7665 4419E-mail: info.uk@mediaplanet.com

Mediaplanet takes full responsibility for the contents of this supplement

We make our readers succeed!

What is whisky? It seems such a sim-ple question. Cereals, water and yeast. Fer-

mentation, distillation and matu-ration. It sounds straightforward. Yet every whisky is a unique, com-plex combination of flavours. Each is made in the same way but each one is very different.

Traditional practices that allowed Scotland’s most famous export to be-come the leading international spir-it now have the most robust legal protection, with landmark Scotch Whisky Regulations agreed in 2009. New label rules are helping consum-ers worldwide to learn about the dif-ferent types of Scotch whisky and discover why each one is special.

A world-wide industry

1The whisky industry is of course global. Whilst distillers

have faced tough economic condi-tions, Scotch whisky has proved to be recession-resilient. Exports of over £3bn were at record levels last year – representing 25 per cent of the

UK’s food & drink exports – and have continued to grow in 2010.

That is vital to the economy, with over 40,000 jobs in the UK support-ed by the industry. Scotch whisky exports are now worth more to Brit-ain than Cognac and Champagne ex-ports combined are to France. Distill-ers can be optimistic that the sector is well placed to develop in the future.

Renewed interest in Scotch whis-ky in the UK is being supported by exciting bottlings, both of single malt and blended scotch whisky. Consumers have a wonderful array of high-quality whiskies from which to choose. Further afield, aspiring consumers in São Paulo, Mumbai, or Shanghai also increasingly want to try premium whiskies. The blend of flavour, authenticity and heritage is hard to resist.

Testament to the success of Scotch whisky has been the emergence of whisky distilling in other countries. Established whiskies – such as those from Ireland and the US – also help to create a vibrant global market for whisky.

A bright outlook

2This bodes well for the future, supporting over £600m in new

capital investment across Scotland over the past couple of years. It is ex-citing to see new distilleries being built, old distilleries expanded, and mothballed stills being fired back into life. And as future plans are made, dis-tillers are focused on sustainability, investing in renewable energy and setting ambitious targets that will help protect the natural environment on which we depend to make our products.

Just as I started with a question, let me end with one. I am often asked “What is your favourite Scotch?” gain, there is never a simple answer. When asked to reveal her choice, I once heard a whisky blender reply: “You can’t ask a mother to pick out her favourite child!” And she was right. The whisky, setting and company all combine to create the perfect dream for you.

Trying to pick a favourite becomes an enjoyable journey, as each whisky’s personality brings something special and unique. Savour the journey.

David WilliamsonThe Scotch Whisky Association

CHALLENGES

‘Scotch whisky exports are now worth more to Britain than Cognac and Champagne exports combined are to France’

DECEMBER 2010 · 3A SUPPLEMENT BY MEDIAPLANET DISTRIBUTED WITHIN THE INDEPENDENT

INSPIRATION

COUNTRY FOCUS1. Take a look at our special focus on pages 4-52. With its distinctive triple-distilled style Irish whiskey is lighter, smoother and easier for the beginner3. Japanese whiskies have a distinctive style, particularly influenced by the use of Japanese oak barrels, and are ready to take on the bestPHOTOS: SHUTTERSTOCK

One of the most exciting opportunities for today’s whisky lover is trying the

great whiskies being made all round the world. Broaden your horizons and discover a whole new source of tastes with Ireland, the USA, Japan and even Sweden all having great drams to explore!

If variety is what you’re looking for, world whiskies off er much to experience. As Ingvar Ronde of the Malt Whisky Yearbook says “This is a world of whisky that is still growing.”

AROUND THE GLOBE

A world of whiskies

TIPS

2 31

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Question: What is it about whisky that so appeals to songwriter KT Tunstall?Answer: She loves the mystery and stories behind each whisky, and the beauty of the world landscapes where it’s made

Tales of mystery and imaginationWhen Scottish songwriter KT Tunstall fell in love with single malts at the age of 23 it was the stories behind the whiskies that lit up her imagination as much as the delicious flavours.

For a storyteller like Tunstall, the mystery and complexity surrounding the origins of each single malt whisky proved irresistibly seductive.

Behind the taste“I was working behind the counter at a specialist drinks shop in St Andrew’s, called Luvians Bottle Shop, which was run by an Italian family. They encour-aged us to try the malts and I must have tasted around 400 whiskies. The expe-rience taught me a lot about the tasting process, smelling and what to pick out about a whisky,” she said.

But the main thing she got into was the process. “I loved the romance of how it’s made. There are proud fam-ily histories behind every distillery. And they’re smaller than you expect.

Talisker is a big name in whisky, but you go there and it’s a dinky, beautiful distillery near the water on a peninsu-la on Skye. There are only a handful of people working there.”

All the stories are there to taste in the whisky if you have a sensitive enough palate and a good imagina-tion. “Everything seeps into the fla-vour. You need to know about the soil content, or whether the distillery is on the coastline and gets sea salt. My fa-vourite whisky story of all is about the Angel’s Share. The angels take about a 2 per cent share of all whiskies during the maturation process.”

The storytelling aspect gives whisky an aura of mystery which appeals deeply to the artist in Tunstall. “I have a friend who loves secret bars in New York. He takes me to speakeasy places where you go down through a kitchen, then into a basement for a dram. There’s a sense of exploration and magic.”

Fond memories“It’s a real thinker’s drink and it

makes me slow down and reflect. It el-evates in a way that beer doesn’t do. It makes me want to shoot the breeze with friends.”

When KT is touring around the US, or rest of the world, with her band, whisky takes her back to the wild Scot-tish landscapes she loves.

“With almost every bottle you see a picture of where it was born. It’s very important to me that they are places of natural beauty. I’m an enormous lover of beauty and emptiness in places. We live on a small island but we can still find oases of uninhabited splendour.”

Only the best“Whenever I’m drinking whisky and not somewhere beautiful, I want to feel like I’m sitting next to a campfire. The fire in the whisky is one of the rea-sons it’s such a sexy drink,” she said.

Her affinity with fire, with all its Promethean connotations of pas-sion and creation, was also an inspi-ration for her latest album, Tiger Suit. “Making the new album in Berlin, I

discovered the indigenous part of my-self by going back to campfire dance music just as much as club dance mu-sic,” she said.

“Losing yourself in the middle of nowhere around a fire is no different to losing yourself surrounded by hun-dreds of people on a dance floor.”

When it comes to whisky, however, Tunstall is more of a purist than as a songwriter. She won’t tolerate blend-ed whiskies, whereas she happily in-troduces all kinds of diverse elements into her songs. The new album blends organic instruments with dance-friendly textures to create what she has dubbed “nature techno”.

“But if someone sends through a blended whisky to the band, I will send it away with a boot up the arse. It’s my diva moment,” she said.

KT Tunstall’s UK tour starts in February. See www.kttunstall.com for details.

DAVID SMITH

info.uk@mediaplanet.com

CHANGE

‘It’s a real thinker’s drink and it makes me slow down and reflect’KT Tunstall Singer/songwriter

Milroy’s of Soho3 Greek StreetLondon, W1D 4NX

T: 020 7437 2385E: lee.tomlinson@milroys.co.ukW: milroys.co.uk

Whisky Specialist

INSPIRATION

DECEMBER 2010 · 5A SUPPLEMENT BY MEDIAPLANET DISTRIBUTED WITHIN THE INDEPENDENT

KT’S BEST TIPS

5Stay single

1I like single malt whiskies. There’s purity and a romance

you don’t get with blended.

Understand your drink

2I drink it neat. That’s not to say it can’t be improved with

water. A whisky like Ardbeg can punch you in the face and water can open it out.

Island whiskies

3Give a peatier, more charac-terful slap in the face. I love

to feel the wind and the sea batter-ing my face.

Smell it

4Give it a good sniff and if you don’t like peaty whisky try to

smell toff ee notes. You might want greater sweetness. Nice smoother ones are Glen Ross and Macallen, which are safe bets if you’ve not had whisky before. And Bowmore is an accessible island whisky.

Don’t overspend

5It’s like a casino. You can spend a

lot and you might not like it.

GREAT MEMORIESWhilst on tour, KT enjoys the memories of home whisky bringsPHOTO: SIMON EMMETT

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John Glaser, the creator of Lon-don-based Compass Box Whisky, is not afraid to be unconvention-al as long as he believes he is cre-ating delicious whisky. Though some consider him something of a maverick, the fact that he’s won Whisky Magazine’s Innovator of The Year award four times, suggests he is doing something right.

The US-born Glaser is ideal-ly placed to give a perspective on innovation in the whisky indus-try having worked as a market-ing manager for Johnnie Walker, as well as running a smaller craft company since 2001. And he makes a distinction between craft compa-nies such as Compass Box, or Ben Riach, and industrial producers.

“The multi-nationals tend to be good at brand stewardship, but what they consider innovation is often a line extension to an old brand. I don’t consider it innova-tive unless there’s a core diff erence to the product,” he said.

“Smaller companies look at ways of making the product better, more compelling, unique in the way it’s processed. The higher cost is

recouped when it sells as a diff er-entiated product,” he said. One ma-jor area of innovation is presenta-

tion. Craft producers are keen to diff erentiate themselves though new packaging styles and imagi-

native marketing. But new fl avours have also evolved, partly as a result of the explosion in small whisky producers.

“New distilleries are springing up all the time, and old, disused distilleries are being revamped. Two thirds of the industry is still controlled by fi ve or six companies, but newer companies will drive innovation.”

Changes in taste don’t often in-volve eureka moments, but rather emerge from new trends across the smaller producers, such as the in-novative use of casks.

“About 60–70 per cent of fla-vour comes from the oak, yet a lot of companies use casks too many times. If a cask has already been used six times, even if you leave it 10 years, it makes boring whisky. Smaller companies have led the way by using higher-quality and more active oak,” he said.

A related trend is for wine-cask fi nishers. Whiskies are matured in barrels that once held wine from Spain, Portugal, or France. Innova-tive casks enhance fl avour, as well as giving marketing departments a story to promote.

“Some companies do this to make boring whisky saleable. But other companies produce good whiskies, and Glenmorangie is the leader.”

Barrels of innovation

WHISKY BARRELS Smaller companies have led the way by using higher-quality oak PHOTO: JAIME PHARR /SHUTTERSTOCK

DAVID SMITH

info.uk@mediaplanet.com

Question: What have been

the major innovations in whisky

in recent times?

Answer: Craft producers

have led the way in developing

new styles of packaging and

different cask fi nishes

NEWS

NEW COMPANIES

DRIVE INNOVATION

1TIP

Whisky pledges to go greenScotch whisky companies have agreed to cut their use of fossil fuels by 80 per cent by 2050, in the industry’s first Environmental Strategy.

The fossil fuel reduction will save over 750,000 tonnes of car-bon dioxide by 2050 – the equiv-alent of taking 235,000 cars off Scotland’s roads.

Other targets set out include: big reductions in packaging weight; stopping waste from packaging operations going to landfi ll sites; a commitment to sourcing casks from sustainable oak forests; high-est standards of water use and dis-charge management.

Gavin Hewitt, the chief exec-utive of The Scotch Whisky As-sociation, said: “Spirit produc-tion has increased by over 20 per cent over the last decade, yet our energy effi ciency has also im-proved by a similar amount – a great achievement.”

The SWA said member com-panies would invest over £100m in environmental initiatives, such as bio-energy plants at Roseisle, Cameronbridge.

DAVID SMITH

info.uk@mediaplanet.com

FACTS

Exports generated a record 3.13

bn for the UK balance of trade last

year.

Scotch is Scotland’s leading

export.

87 million cases were exported

worldwide. Laid end to end they

would stretch 31,635km, or six times

the distance from Edinburgh to New

York

10,300 people are employed in the

Scotch Whisky industry

The industry contributes £600

million in taxes

Some 19.5m casks lie maturing in

warehouses in Scotland.

To be Scotch Whisky, it must

mature in oak casks in Scotland for at

least 3 years

108 distilleries are licensed to

produce Scotch Whisky

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A 40-year-old Glengoyne for £3,750. Johnnie Walker 1805 at £1,000 a glass. Highland Park vintages start-ing at £2,250. Gleniddich doubling the price of their latest 50-year-old release to £10,000 and now Macal-lan Finest Cut in a Lalique decant-er. It’s 57 years old, it must be ad-mitted, but £15,000!

Is whisky in danger of over-reaching itself and forgetting the drinkers who made it such a drink in the fi rst place? With the world in the grip of the worst fi nancial re-cession for decades, perhaps the conspicuous consumption of the past decade will come abruptly to an end.

Apparently not, according to Ken Grier of The Macallan who main-tains: “It’s logical luxury... authen-ticity, provenance, real quality and a real rational benefi t that reassures consumers. This isn’t a time to ex-periment and people are reverting to the tried and trusted.”

Leading whisky specialist Su-khinder Singh of London’s Whis-ky Exchange agrees. “Our high-end whisky business, which is £500 a bottle and upwards, is buoyant but people are buying much more carefully now. They’re looking for

reassurance and quality – which means that whiskies not up to scratch will suff er in the market.”

But a fundamental divide has opened up here. Some affl uent new consumers are excited by lavish packaging and high pricing and take comfort in the reassurance of a well-known and prestigious brand, whereas long-term whisky enthu-siasts, primarily the single-malt afi -cionados, value the liquid above all. Single-malt sales amount to 8 per

cent of global sales of Scotch, and they dominate lists of the world’s most expensive whiskies. Rarity and provenance is all, so 19th cen-tury drams are especially desira-ble, though a rare 8-year-old may be worth more than a common 21-year-old.

Faced with limited allocations of products that once were relatively freely available, independent retail-ers, such as The Whisky Exchange, are becoming bottlers. By sourcing

single casks and bottling their own expressions they can off er great val-ue to buyers who want to drink the whisky, not use it to reinforce their own lifestyle image.

It’s clear that some brands at least can command markedly higher prices, backed up by lavish packag-ing and heavy advertising budgets, but the independent sector can still off er great value, provided you care-fully check out the quality.

All that glistens is not gold

BOTTLING UP By bottling their own expressions independent retailers can make whisky more affordable PHOTO: THE SCOTCH WHISKY ASSOCIATION

IAN BUXTON

info.uk@mediaplanet.com

Question: How much should

you pay for high-quality whisky?

Answer: While there are

many options, you should

always purchase with prudence

NEWS

BUY CAREFULLY

2TIP

Whiskies of the worldThere has been an explosion in small-scale whisky-making around the world, according to a top whisky writer

Dave Broom, author of The World Atlas of Whisky, says the trend is part of a worldwide move towards small-scale food production. The distillation process is also now widely understood.

“There are so many new micro-breweries in the US it’s impossible to count them all,” Broom said.

Broom also singles out Japan, Scandinavia and Tasmania for their distinctive products.

“The new whiskies are not just copies of Scotch. Sweden’s Mack-myra is violently Swedish. It us-es Swedish oak and is matured in a mine.

“Tasmania has six distilleries using small ex-wine casks and lo-cal peat with its particular aroma. Lark is one good one,” he said.

There are also major distilleries, especially Taiwan’s Kavalan and Bangalore’s Amrut. Their warm-er climates accelerates the matu-ration process, which takes only three years.

TU

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FACTS

The non-Scotch whisky market,

mainly Irish, US, Canadian, Indian and

Japanese, reached 161.8m nine-litre

cases in 2008, an increase of 10.6 per

cent on 2007.

Irish whisky rose by 8 per cent

from 2003–2008 to reach 4.46m

cases. US whisky rose 2 per cent

from 2003–2008 to 29.4m cases.

US whisky sells more 1m cases in

4 markets (US, Germany, Australia,

UK). Scotch whisky sells more 1m

cases in 22 markets.

Non-Scotch whiskies tend to be

more mixable than Scotch as they are

unpeated. Bourbon is sweeter and

mixes well with cola.

Smooth Irish and Canadian

whiskies are less challenging for

entry-level drinkers. SOURCE: IWSR AND WWW.JUST-DRINKS.COM

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The math is pretty simple. Only so many barrels are lucky enough to be stored at the top of the barrelhouses, where the temperature swings are the greatest. This causes the whiskey to interact more with the wood, drawing out more and more f lavor as the seasons pass, resulting in richer, more robust character. But just being on top doesn’t mean the whiskey makes the cut. Our Master Tasters sample and hand-select only the finest barrels that will each ultimately yield about two hundred and forty bottles. Each one with the unique characteristics of that single barrel and exactly what the Master Tasters intended. And they’re the most discerning whiskey drinkers around.

QUANTITIES SHOULD ALWAYS BE LIMITED.PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY.

For only the mostDISCERNING WHISKEY DRINKERS.And even then, quantities are limited.

10 · DECEMBER 2010 A SUPPLEMENT BY MEDIAPLANET DISTRIBUTED WITHIN THE INDEPENDENT

Following one’s nose

An abnormally sensitive nose and an intense passion for whisky are two of the most essential qualities in a master blender, says Rachel Barrie, the fi rst woman to achieve the distinction

The winemaker Ilja Gort insured his famous nose for £4m with Lloyd’s of London in 2008. He said if anything hap-

pened to his most valuable tool, he couldn’t do his job. Glenmorangie’s master blender Rachel Barrie has not gone as far as Gort, but her ol-factory powers are a match for the Dutchman’s.

One of Rachel’s roles is to sniff 200 samples a day and she calcu-lates that she has already sniff ed 80,000 samples. The experience has sharpened her senses so that her assessments are now intuitive.

“To be a blender you need to have a nose and palate in the top 10 per cent. I do nosing tests in which peo-ple smell 20 small bottles of diverse aromas blindfold, and are scored on odour recognition. I also test their tongues, which have diff erent ele-ments. A person might have a blind spot for sweet tastes,” she said.

The second quality required of a Master Blender is passion. Rachel has to be aware of everything in

the whisky world, which means reading everything and net-working with connoisseurs. Not that anyone would ever question her passion.

“No other spirit compares to whisky. It has hundreds of aro-mas; it’s enigmatic and interest-ing. It has a deep texture and taste because of the malt. But it’s more than taste; it stimulates mind and body. Having a whisky together on a cold winter night creates closer bonds,” she said.

A third factor in creating a mas-ter blender is training. After her Phd in chemistry, Rachel took a job in the brewing industry, but soon moved to a research role at the Scotch Whisky Research Institute, where she gained a rich under-standing of the diversity of malts.

In 1995, she started as a lab man-ager with Glenmorangie and grad-ually climbed the ladder to become Scotch Whisky’s fi rst female mas-ter blender in 2003. Since then, a lot of women from university back-grounds have taken a similar route into the industry. Rachel’s skills are used to the full when she cre-

ates new blends two or three times a year.

“There are three main ways. Firstly, you can just have fun ex-perimenting with barley and casks. The second way is to recreate some-thing old – we found the 1903 recipe for Glenmorangie Finealta in a dis-tiller’s notebook from the 1900s.

“The third way is to use your im-agination. You think of a taste and work out how to create it. One ex-ample is Glenmorangie Signet, which is unique in being made with heavy, roasted chocolate malt. It has a rich aroma of coff ee and a more robust taste than had ever been done without peat,” she said.

Glenmorangie has pioneered un-usual cask fi nishes. After 10 years in American oak barrels, whisky is transferred to Spanish sherry casks made from chunky, toasted oak.

“The pear and peach notes change into dried fruit over two years and it spices up the whis-ky. The oak tannins bring cinna-mon, nutmeg and ginger and you get a sweetening eff ect from the caramelised fruits. It’s like crème brulée,” she said.

PROFESSIONAL INSIGHT

1Barley is harvested and malt-ed, reducing moisture and

getting the starch ready to pro-duce alcohol.

2It already has fl avours, so it can now be smoked with

peat. This is used for fuel and the smoke rises and sticks onto the husks of the barley. Glenmorangie has two parts of smoke per mil-lion, whereas the smokier Ardbeg has 50 parts per million.

3The barley is ground down and milled like bread. It be-

comes fl our and also husk. Water is added at 65 degrees, which ex-tracts as much sugar as possible.

4 Yeast is added and it fer-ments for around 55 hours.

The alcohol forms. It’s like a wine at this stage with lots of fruits and fl oral notes. It’s around 8 per cent, like a strong beer.

5It is distilled twice in copper stills, which concentrates

the alcohol to 69–70 per cent. It is colourless but has lots of fl avour. Glenmorangie is fruity and fl oral; Ardbeg is smoky with fl oral notes

6Water is added and it’s put in a cask for 10 years. The quali-

ty of oak is paramount. The colour and 60–70 per cent of fl avour come from maturation.

RACHEL BARRIE, MASTER

BLENDER AT GLENMORANGIE

THE STAGES OF MAKING

SINGLE MALT WHISKY

6

No purchase necessary. Closing date 31st January 2011. Only one entry per person. Open to persons currently aged 21 and over. Exclusions apply. Winners will be notifi ed by email by 18th February 2011. Winners must be able to travel to Scotland on 8th May 2011 and stay until 14th May 2011. Full terms and conditions at www.theglenrothes.com/whiskymaker

‘No other spirit compares to whisky. It has hundreds of aromas; it’s enigmatic and interesting. It has a deep texture and taste because of the malt’

Rachel BarrieMaster blender at Glenmorangie

FOLLOW YOUR NOSE

3TIP

Berry Bros. & Rudd can trace its origins back to 1698 when the Widow Bourne

founded her shop opposite St James’s Palace. Having traded from the same

premises at No. 3 St James’s Street for over 300 years, Berrys’ is the oldest

wine and spirits merchant in Britain and possibly the world.

In that time, we have appreciated the changing tastes of our discerning

clientele and have always sourced the finest wines and spirits available. This

is especially true of the whisky selection currently available.

Nearly 100 years ago, the directors of the business were responsible for

creating some remarkable blended whiskies before the domination of

the famous brands of today. Some still exist today: St James’s Whisky, for

example, and the oddly named Blue Hanger which was voted Best Blended

Malt Whisky at the World Whisky Awards – and one went on to become one

of the most successful export brands the world has ever known: Cutty Sark.

These whiskies are still available at Berry Bros. & Rudd; we continue to seek

out exceptional casks and spirits and to offer a diverse range to suit every

palate and every occasion under the Berrys’ Own Selection and the Berrys’

Select labels. Doug McIvor brings 20 years of experience to his selection

of malt whiskies from many of Scotland’s well and some lesser known

distilleries. As a result, we are delighted to have been named Independent

Whisky Bottler of the Year by Whisky Magazine for 2010 and 2011.

Scotch whisky from

Berry Bros. & Rudd Ltd

The house malt at Berry Bros. & Rudd is The Glenrothes; Select Reserve

is one of Ian Buxton’s 101 Whiskies to Try Before You Die. As he states;

“For a gentle, subtle and intriguing dram that keeps on giving, look no

further. Great whisky at a great price.”

Of course, we also stock a very wide range of whiskies from Ireland,

Japan and the USA as well as, of course, Scotland. Visit Berry Bros. &

Rudd at No. 3 St James’s Street or on-line at www.bbr.com

By appointment to HRH Queen Elizabeth and HRH the Prince of Wales.

XXX · 3AN ADVERTISING INSERT BY MEDIAPLANET

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