wool fibre innovation - woolwisefibre stretch (%) fibre tenacity(cn/tex) tenacity cn/tex ~30% 0 2 6...
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Wool Fibre Innovation
OPTIM Technology
Dr David Phillips
CSIRO Textile and Fibre Technology
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Drivers for Wool Fibre Innovation
§ Changing consumer and market needs § Finer, lighter yarns and fabrics § Softness and low prickle required § Reduced demand for >21 µm wools § Product Innovation
§ Challenge: How to make wool finer?
§ Solution (1): Breed finer wools (5 years of breeding for 1µm)
§ Solution (2): Drought conditions § Solution (3): Fibre modification/transformation
Fibre transformation provides major scope for product innovation. Fibre transformation is the most radical form of innovation
What is Innovation? “Make the strange familiar or make the familiar strange” G.K.Chesterton
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The supportive CSIRO R&D environment in the 1980s
§ Radical innovation encouraged
§ ‘Fibre modification underpins fundamental innovation.’
§ Broad skill base at Geelong: § wool physics and chemistry know-how § machine design and building skills § fibre-to-fabric facilities § fibre-to-fabric know-how.
§ Strong support from wool R&D funding body.
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Wool fibre is extensible
§ Data for 18.7 µm wool fibres (3.5 dTex)
18.7 µm wool
0
2
4
6
8
10
0 20 40 60Fibre Stretch (%)
Fibr
e St
ress
(cN/
tex)
wet
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Fibre diameter decreases with extension
Effect of Fibre Extension on Diameter
0
5
10
15
20
25
0 20 40 60 80 100
Fibre Extension %
Fibr
e di
amet
er (
µm)
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Wool fibre is extensible
§ Extensibility depends on:
§ moisture content of fibre § temperature § level of broken disulphide bonds (thiols)
§ needs reducing agents.
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Wool fibres can be set
§ Setting chemistry is well-known. § Wool fibres can be set in bending, extension or when
twisted § Two separate setting processes can apply:
§ glass transition temperature (cohesive) § thiol-disulphide interchange
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Setting of wool § Glass transition temperature
§ Cohesive (released in cold water) § e.g., wrinkles in trousers.
§ Thiol-disulphide interchange § Temporary (released in hot water at 70°C)
§ stability of a wool fabric surface after pressing using mild steaming conditions (e.g. 87°C)
§ treat a freshly spun yarn in steam at 87°C for several minutes.
§ Permanent (stable to hot water at 95°C) § stability of a wool fabric surface after pressure decatising at 110°C § bend and hold a fabric in boiling water for one hour § extend and hold a fibre in boiling water for one hour
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The Challenge
§ How to extend and set fibres in practice?
§ What were the consequences?
§ What were/are the opportunities?
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Stretching of fibres
§ Too difficult to stretch fibres separately. § Stretch against twist provides fibre cohesion and
control. § Stretching of slivers using false twist developed.
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Stretching of fibres
§ Too difficult to stretch fibres separately. § Stretch against twist provides fibre cohesion and
control. § Stretching of slivers using false twist developed.
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Commercial Optim plant
Woolmark/Andar commercial plant
Productivity: ~ 30-40 kg/hr
6 machines globally (including 5 Andar machines)
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Setting of extended wool fibres
Temporary or permanent set possible.
§ Stress relaxation occurs in stretched fibres. § Reducing agent generates thiols. § Thiols aid the relaxation process by thiol-disulphide
interchange. § Oxidation step rebuilds disulphides. § Time and temperature parameters important.
§ Choice of conditions produces temporary or permanent set.
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Commercial Optim plant
heating stretch set
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OptimTM fibres
§ At present, two fibre types allow product innovation:
§ OPTIMTMfine – permanent set
§ OPTIMTMmax – temporary set.
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The OPTIMTMfine process
WOOL SLIVER (e.g., 19 µm)
TWIST
STRETCH
PERMANENTLY SET
OPTIMTMfine FIBRE (e.g., 15.5 µm)
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Cross-sectional shape of OPTIMTMfine
Parent Wool OPTIMTMfine fibres
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Fibre structure
Wool OPTIMTMfine
Alpha keratin diffraction pattern
Beta keratin diffraction pattern (silk-like)
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OptimTM Fine Fibres
§ Benefits § Lustrous, silk-like, glitter § Longer § Stronger § Prickle reduced § Applies to all wools § (and all animal fibres)
02468
10121416
0 20 40 60 80Fibre Stretch (%)
Fib
re T
enac
ity(
cN/T
ex)
TenacitycN/Tex
~30%
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
0 10 20 30 40 50 60
Fibre Diameter (µm)
Perc
enta
ge o
f Fib
res
(%)
parent 19.3 micron
treated 16.4 micron
0.5% c.f. 2.0% > 30µm
Fibre length distribution with % stretch
-1000
0
1000
2000
3000
4000
5000
6000
0 50 100 150 200 250 300 350
Fibre length (mm)
Num
ber o
f fib
res
Extension (0%)
Extension (20%)
Extension (40%)
Extension (60%)
Extension (80%)
Extension (100%)
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OptimTM fine properties
Disadvantages § Low wet modulus
§ affects top and package dyeing § more care needed in finishing § poor wrinkling behaviour
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
2.5
0 20 40 60 80Fibre Stretch (%)
Fibr
e St
iffne
ss (N
/Tex
)
Dry stiffness
Wet stiffness
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OPTIMTMfine fibre properties
Optim™ Fine
Wool Viscose Silk
Linear density (dTex) 2.3 3.7 1.7 1.2
Tenacity (cN/Tex) 14.5 11.5 22-26 39
Extensibility (%) 19 38 20-25 18
Wet modulus (cN/Tex) 51 95-100 40-50 220
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The OPTIMTMmax process
WOOL SLIVER
TWIST
STRETCH
TEMPORARY SET
OPTIMTMmax FIBRE
Retractable wool fibre ~ 25%
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Bulk generation in yarn
OPTIMTMmax fibre
Release yarn in hot water
Blend as top
Spin
Wool
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Wool with Optim Max
Normal wool yarn
Yarn bulk
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Yarn and fabric bulk (wool with Optim™max)
Yarn count (Tex)
Yarn bulk (cm3/g)
Fabric bulk (cm3/g)
Fabric weight (g/m2)
Wool R75/2 12 3.5 287
Wool with Optim™ max(40%)
R74/2 17 6.3 225
Wool R478/3/3 6 7.8
Wool with Optim™ max(40%)
R435/3/3 12 10.5
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OptimTMmax properties
Benefits: § Retractable § Generates bulk when blended § Good for ‘warm without weight’ products § Basis for further product innovation.
Disadvantages: § Extra relaxation process required in yarn processing.
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Commercial position
§ Process patented § Woolmark was sole licensee for manufacture and sale of
Optim machines now part of AWI merger . § Detailed technology transfer packages provided to
Woolmark from CSIRO § Fibre to fabric processing advice available
§ Optim™ machines are operating in China and Japan. § Arcana machine operating in Australia.
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Further developments of Optim
Currently Optim demand is limited by supply, fibre cost and performance issues. The following will enhance the opportunity for Optim products: § reduce cost of production § improve wet fibre and fabric properties § develop new fibre products
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Black box approach to fibre modification
§ Modify process to engineer wool fibres for unique product applications.
§ Optim example: § fibre tenacity § elongation to break § crimp § range of fibre
types possible. 0
10
20
30
40
0 20 40 60 80
% Stretch
Tena
city
, Elo
ngat
ion
&
Crim
p
TenacitycN/tex
Elongation tobreak %
Crimp%
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Ancient thoughts on problem solving
‘By always thinking unto them, I keep the subject constantly before me and wait till the first dawnings open little by little into the full light.’
Sir Isaac Newton (1642-1727)
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Final word on innovation
Product innovation is largely a process of problem solving combined with passion and persistence, but, above all, arises from the need to think and rethink about needs, problems and opportunities.
David Phillips, 2007
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Next
§ Questions § Visit to Optim™ prototype plant § Show of Optim™ products