woodford hortupdate · intermingled organic layer of dead and living shoots, stems, and roots that...

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A Note From Faye Woodford HortUpdate June 2017 Woodford County 184 Beasley Drive Versailles, KY 40383-8992 (859) 873-4601 Fax: (859) 873-8936 Extension.ca.uky.edu Tomato Leaf-Spot Diseases Be sure to get out and support your Woodford County Farmer’s Market and take advantage of the fresh fruits, veggies, baked goods and much more! The 2017 schedule is listed below. There will be many special events planned this year and the Woodford County Master Gardeners will have a booth the 1st and 3rd Saturday of every month to answer your gardening questions! Also, I will be offering a Master Gardener training this fall so please call if you are interested and let your friends and neighbors know. Mondays ~ 3:00 – 6:00 p.m., Main Street, Midway Wednesdays ~ 3:00 – 6:00 p.m., Versailles Presbyterian Church, Side Parking Lot, Opening Wednesday, June 3rd Saturdays ~ 8:30 a.m. – 12:00 p.m., Courthouse Square, Downtown Versailles Please ‘like’ the Woodford County Horticulture and Extension Master Gardener Facebook pages for tips and tricks and to keep up with our events/activities: https://www.facebook.com/woodfordCES/ and https://www.facebook.com/ WoodfordCountyMasterGardeners/. This time of year, two common leaf-spot diseases appear on tomato plants. Septoria leaf spot and early blight are both characterized by brown spots on the leaves. Septoria leaf spot usually appears earlier in the season than early blight and produces small dark spots. Spots made by early blight are much larger and often have a distorted “target” pattern of concentric circles. Heavily infected leaves eventually turn yellow and drop. Older leaves are more susceptible than younger ones, so these diseases often start at the bottom of the plant and work up. Mulching, caging, or staking keeps plants off the ground, making them less vulnerable. Better air circulation allows foliage to dry quicker than in plants allowed to sprawl. Mulching also helps prevent water from splashing and carrying disease spores to the plant. In situations where these diseases have been a problem in the past, rotation is a good strategy. It is too late for that now, but keep it in mind for next year. Actually, rotation is a good idea even if you have not had problems in the past. But many gardens are too small to make it practical. If you have room, rotate the location of the tomatoes each year to an area that has not had tomatoes or related crops (peppers, potatoes, eggplant) for several years. Source: Kansas State Extension If rotation is not feasible, fungicides are often helpful. Be sure to cover both upper and lower leaf surfaces, and reapply fungicide if rainfall removes it. Plants usually become susceptible when the tomato fruit is about the size of a walnut. Chlorothalonil is a good choice for fruiting plants because it has a 0-day waiting period, meaning that fruit can be harvested once the spray is dry. Chlorothalonil can be found in numerous products including Fertilome Broad-Spectrum Landscape and Garden Fungicide, Ortho Garden Disease Control, GardenTech Daconil and others. Fixed copper is also affective and has a 0-day wait period. It can be used in organic gardens and is sold under many brand names: Bonide copper spray or dust, bonide liquid copper, or hi- yield copper fungide. Be sure to start protecting plants when the disease is first seen. It is virtually impossible to control this disease on heavily infected plants. Disclaimer: When trade names are used, no discrimination is intended and no endorsement is implied by the University of Kentucky College of Agriculture Food and Environment. Although every attempt is made to produce information that is complete, timely, and accurate, the pesticide user bears the complete responsibility of consulting the pesticide label and adhering to those directions.

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Page 1: Woodford HortUpdate · intermingled organic layer of dead and living shoots, stems, and roots that develops between the green leaves and soil surface. A little thatch is good, since

A Note From Faye

Woodford HortUpdate

June 2017

Woodford County

184 Beasley Drive

Versailles, KY 40383-8992

(859) 873-4601

Fax: (859) 873-8936

Extension.ca.uky.edu

Tomato Leaf-Spot Diseases

Be sure to get out and support your Woodford County Farmer’s Market and take advantage of the fresh fruits, veggies, baked goods and much more! The 2017 schedule is listed below. There will be many special events planned this year and the Woodford County Master Gardeners will have a booth the 1st and 3rd Saturday of every month to answer your gardening questions! Also, I will be offering a Master Gardener training this fall so please call if you are interested and let your friends and neighbors know. Mondays ~ 3:00 – 6:00 p.m., Main Street, Midway Wednesdays ~ 3:00 – 6:00 p.m., Versailles Presbyterian Church, Side Parking Lot, Opening Wednesday, June 3rd Saturdays ~ 8:30 a.m. – 12:00 p.m., Courthouse Square, Downtown Versailles

Please ‘like’ the Woodford County Horticulture and Extension Master Gardener Facebook pages for tips and tricks and to keep up with our events/activities: https://www.facebook.com/woodfordCES/ and https://www.facebook.com/WoodfordCountyMasterGardeners/.

This time of year, two common leaf-spot diseases appear on tomato plants. Septoria leaf spot and early blight are both characterized by brown spots on the leaves. Septoria leaf spot usually appears earlier in the season than early

blight and produces small dark spots. Spots made by early blight are much larger and often have a distorted “target” pattern of concentric circles. Heavily infected leaves eventually turn

yellow and drop. Older leaves are more susceptible than younger ones, so these diseases often start at the bottom of the plant and work up. Mulching, caging, or staking keeps plants off the ground, making them less vulnerable. Better air circulation allows foliage to dry quicker than in plants allowed to sprawl. Mulching also helps prevent water from splashing and carrying disease spores to the plant. In situations where these diseases have been a problem in the past, rotation is a good strategy. It is too late for that now, but keep it in mind for next year. Actually, rotation is a good idea even if you have not had problems in the past. But many gardens are too small to make it practical. If you have room, rotate the location of the tomatoes each year to an area that has not had tomatoes or related crops (peppers, potatoes, eggplant) for several years. Source: Kansas State Extension

If rotation is not feasible, fungicides are often helpful. Be sure to cover both upper and lower leaf surfaces, and reapply fungicide if rainfall removes it. Plants usually become susceptible when the tomato fruit is about the size of a walnut. Chlorothalonil is a good choice for fruiting plants because it has a 0-day waiting period, meaning that fruit can be harvested once the spray is dry. Chlorothalonil can be found in numerous products including Fertilome Broad-Spectrum Landscape and Garden Fungicide, Ortho Garden Disease Control, GardenTech Daconil and others. Fixed copper is also affective and has a 0-day wait period. It can be used in organic gardens and is sold under many brand names: Bonide copper spray or dust, bonide liquid copper, or hi-yield copper fungide. Be sure to start protecting plants when the disease is first seen. It is virtually impossible to control this disease on heavily infected plants.

Disclaimer: When trade names are used, no discrimination is intended and no endorsement is implied by the University of Kentucky College of Agriculture Food and Environment. Although every attempt is made to produce information that is complete, timely, and accurate, the pesticide user bears the complete responsibility of consulting the pesticide label and adhering to those directions.

Page 2: Woodford HortUpdate · intermingled organic layer of dead and living shoots, stems, and roots that develops between the green leaves and soil surface. A little thatch is good, since

Don’t Guess Soil Test Free soil test vouchers are available at the Woodford

County Conservation Office to be

redeemed when soil samples are

submitted through the Woodford

County Extension Service. Up to 20

free soil tests are available per farm or

homeowner. This program runs

through June 30, 2017, or until the

funds are depleted.

Planting Native Flowers for Pollinators

Need a reason to plant more flowers? How do supporting local agriculture, ensuring the availability of healthy fruits and vegetables, and protecting thousands of plant and animal species sound? By planting flowers that sustain pollinators, you are accomplishing all of this, as well as making your yard more attractive. Pollinators, which include bees, butterflies, moths, wasps, hummingbirds, and bats, make reproduction possible for more than three-fourths of the flowering plants on earth, including many of the fruits and vegetables we eat every day. Of all the pollinators in the world, bees are the best. While almost everyone is familiar with European honey bees, fewer people are aware of the vast variety of native bees found in North America. These include bumble bees, sweat bees, miner bees, and mason bees, all of which are valuable pollinators of crops as well as native flowering plants. Alarmingly, populations of both honey bees and native bees are in decline. Reasons for bee decline include disease and parasite infection, habitat loss, and stress caused by pesticide exposure and malnutrition. As gardeners, we have a critical role to play in reversing this alarming trend. One of the most important things we can do to preserve and support pollinators is to plant flowers. Bees gather nectar and pollen from flowers to feed themselves and their offspring. To stay strong and maintain healthy colonies, bees need a season-long supply of flowers that have not been contaminated with pesticides. Many of our native bees specialize in feeding on native plants. Including native plants in your landscape will support the widest range of pollinators. When planting flowers to support pollinators, aim to have at least three different types of flowers in bloom during each season, from early spring through late fall.

Flowering perennials are among the best nectar sources for bees. Recommended perennials native to our region that are available from most garden centers include spring bloomers such as spider­wort (Tradescantia ohiensis), Coreopsis species and varieties, wild indigo (Baptisia species), Wild geranium, beard­tongue (Penstemon species), and bluestar (Amsonia species).

Some of the best native summer-blooming perennials for pollinators include coneflowers (Rudbeckia and Echinacea species), phlox, lobelia, butterflyweed and milkweed (Asclepias spe­cies), Stoke’s aster (Stokesia laevis), bee balm (Monarda species), mist flower, liatris, and mountain mint (Pyc­nanthemum species). To provide late-season nectar sources,

plant a variety of native asters (Symphyotrichum species), goldenrods (Solidago species), joe pye weed (Eu­trochium species), ironweeds (Vernonia species), and perennial sunflowers (Helianthus species). Some non-native herbs and perennial flowers also provide excellent forage for bees and other pollinators. Some of these include borage, cosmos, sunflowers, basil, zinnia, comfrey, rosemary, lavender, thyme, and oregano. For more information on pollinator plants and habitats visit the following websites: Kentucky Pollinator Handbook: http://www.kyagr.com/statevet/documents/Kentucky-Pollinator-Handbook.pdf Xerces Society: http://xerces.org/ Grow Wise, Bee Smart: Plants Bees Like Best http://growwise.org/news-resources/ Kentucky Native Plant Society: http://www.knps.org/ Sources: NC State Extension & the KY Native Plant

Website Resources Listed

Sidedressing Chart

Kansas State Extension has put together a nice chart that covers sidedressing nitrogen on annual flowers, certain perennial flowers, vegetables and various small fruit. Sidedressing (also called topdressing) is applying nitrogen

fertilizer as plants are growing to give them an extra boost. Done correctly, sidedressing can improve vegetable, fruit and flower production. This chart lists the crop, the amount of fertilizer needed, and suggested time of application. Rates are given for ammonium sulfate, urea and blood meal. You may find the chart at http://tinyurl.com/hxtgres Source: Kansas State Extension

Free Soil Testing

Page 3: Woodford HortUpdate · intermingled organic layer of dead and living shoots, stems, and roots that develops between the green leaves and soil surface. A little thatch is good, since

Maintaining a Beautiful Lawn Creating and maintaining a beautiful lawn boils down to three main factors: variety selection, mowing height and tool selection. Here in Kentucky, the best grass is turf-type

tall fescue. Fescue is a cool-season grass that thrives in the spring and the fall, though growth slows in the dead of summer and winter. No matter what grass species you choose, proper mowing height is key. As a rule of thumb, grass should be mowed at a length in which one-third of the height is removed. For example, if your grass is 6 inches tall, you should only remove the top 2

inches. Removing more than a third can result in stunted growth and weaker stands. Turf-type tall fescue lawns are typically mowed to 3 inches tall. While mowing the lawn, what should be done with the grass clippings? The answer is: leave the clippings on the lawn. Leaving grass clippings on the lawn saves time, money, and energy, since you don’t have to stop and empty the bagger or buy trash bags. Clippings also add free fertilizer to the lawn, possibly as much as 25% of the lawn’s annual nutrient needs. Grass clippings do not significantly increase thatch. Clippings contain 75 to 85 percent water and decompose quickly. Thatch is a tight, intermingled organic layer of dead and living shoots, stems, and roots that develops between the green leaves and soil surface. A little thatch is good, since it helps moderate temperature extremes at the soil surface and provides a cushion effect on the surface. A good fertility program for your lawn should be based upon a soil sample. Most of the time, you should not apply nitrogen in the spring. Nitrogen promotes top growth and will only increase your mowing time. Typically nitrogen should be applied in the fall to help develop the roots, increase density, and prepare grass for spring green up.

Herbs as Companion Plants Maintaining a small herb garden in the kitchen or an outdoor flower bed is perfect for busy people who want a garden that can give immediate returns. Pinch off a few oregano or basil leaves here, snip a bit of rosemary sprig there, or use some spearmint leaves to create flavorful fruit dishes or accent hot tea. We could find an excuse to incorporate herbs into nearly all of our everyday meals. Multiple herbs can be maintained in a small space, and they double as companion plants if interspersed among more traditional vegetable garden plants. Rosemary is a good companion to cabbage, beans, carrots and sage and will work to keep cabbage moths and Mexican bean beetles away. Planting spearmint can help repel ants and the aphids they maintain for honeydew. Mint plants often send runners just under the soil surface. To prevent excessive spreading, you can keep them in a pot. The container will act as a landscape border and focal point. Basil is a good annual companion plant for tomatoes to repel hornworms, flies and mosquitoes. Pinch stems to promote bushy compact growth. Oregano is a nice broad-spectrum pest deterrent that grows well in poor soils. Cover oregano with fall leaves to winterize and enjoy them the next year. Other herbs that can survive the winter with proper care include rosemary, thyme, mints, lemon verbena, lemon balm, lavender and chives. Planting just a few of these fragrant and tasty herbs is an easy way to be a successful gardener! Find out more by contacting your local Extension office. Source: North Carolina State Extension

Japanese Beetles

Japanese beetles feed on over 300 species of plants including rose, birch, linden, crabapple, grape, and buckeye. Adults are approximately 7/16-inch long, metallic green with coppery wing covers. They feed on leaves, flowers and wounded or mushy fruit. Adults often feed on the green material on the upper surface of the leaf leaving a lacelike or “cellophane” appearance. Most feeding activity occurs over a 4 to 6 week period though individual beetles usually live about 30 to 45 days. They tend to be gregarious feeding in groups, starting at the top of a plant and working down. Warm, sunny weather is preferred. Beetles favor plants in full sun. When disturbed, adults fold their legs and drop from foliage. Adult beetles can be killed by shaking the beetles from the plant into a jar or bucket containing soapy water. Do this in the morning when the insects are sluggish.

Numerous insecticides can be used including pyrethroid products such as cyfluthrin (Tempo, Bayer Vegetable & Garden Insect Spray), bifenthrin (Hi-Yield Bug Blaster II)

and cyhalothrin (Bonide Beetle Killer, Spectracide Bug Stop Indoor + Outdoor Insect Killer, Spectracide Triazicide, Bonide Caterpillar Killer). Carbaryl (Sevin) can also be used. The pyrethroid products normally give 2 to 3 weeks protection with carbaryl not lasting as long; usually 1 to 2 weeks. All of the above insecticides are detrimental to natural controls such a parasitoids and predators or

other pests including the two-spotted spider mite. Neem products (Natural Guard Neem-Py, Fertilome Triple Action Plus) and Pyola (pyrethrins in canola oil) will provide deterrence for 3 to 4 days. Japanese beetle traps tend to attract more beetles than they kill and often do more harm than good and therefore are not recommended.

Page 4: Woodford HortUpdate · intermingled organic layer of dead and living shoots, stems, and roots that develops between the green leaves and soil surface. A little thatch is good, since

Happy Gardening! Faye Kuosman, County Extension Agent for Horticulture [email protected]

Upcoming Events

Horticulture Educational Series June 20th Common Garden Insect Pests & Beneficial Insects Jessica Bessin, Mercer County Horticulture Agent July 18th Managing Perennials through Pruning Jamie Dockery, Fayette County Extension Office August 15th Common Yard Tree Problems Bill Fountain, Extension Prof. of Arboriculture & Landscape Management 2017 Woodford County Woman’s Club Garden Tour and Plant Sale The 2017 WCWC Spring Garden Tour and Plant Sale will be held Saturday, June 10th from 10:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. This spring's tour will feature seven gardens in Versailles, Midway and surrounding area. Before, during and after the tour stop by the Little House at 247 Lexington Rd, Versailles and visit the Garden Plant Sale. All proceeds from the Garden Tour and Plant Sale will benefit Coats and Shoes for Kids Project for our Woodford County Children and The Historic Little House. Tickets are available in advance from local vendors for $15, and for $20 the day of the Tour at the Little House. For more information visit, http://woodfordcountywomansclub.org/WCWC/garden_tour.html 2017 Woodford County Farm Tour, July 24th Mark your calendars, more information to come soon! Versailles Annual Twilight Festival, Saturday, August 26th, 3:00 – 9:00 p.m. There is something for everyone with a dunking booth and other games in our kid's area, a large variety of vendors including some of the best food, wine and crafts our county has to offer, all accompanied by live bands and other entertainment to complete your festival experience. Come out for this free family event and enjoy all that is "Uniquely Woodford".

2nd Annual Fall Gardening Workshop, Saturday September 9th, 8:30 a.m. – 1:00 p.m. Mark your calendars! You don’t want to miss it! This year topics include composting in your backyard, vegetable and fruit diseases, bulbs for all seasons, home lawn care, make and take succulent frame (limited to 20 participants), and trees and shrubs for the small landscape. Information and registration will begin the first of July.

WOULD YOU LIKE TO BECOME A MASTER GARDENER?

F R A N K L I N / W O O D F O R D C O U N T Y 2 0 1 7 M A S T E R G A R D E N E R P R O G R A M T R A I N I N G C O U R S E

Are you interested in improving your gardening techniques while also pursuing an opportunity to give back to your community? Become a Master Gardener!!!

Topics in this training program include:

Basic botany, entomology, and plant pathology Growing better lawns with less effort Understanding how soils affect plant performance

Date/Time: Thursdays August 24th - December 14th,

DEADLINE TO APPLY: MONDAY, JULY 31ST, 2017

Proper care & maintenance of plants Fruit, flower and vegetable gardening Diagnosing plant problems