A Note From Faye

Woodford HortUpdate

Winter 2016

Cooperative

Extension Service

Woodford County

184 Beasley Drive

Versailles, KY 40383-8992

(859) 873-4601

Fax: (859) 873-8936

www.ca.uky.edu/ces

Happy Holidays everyone! We’ve been busy training the new Woodford/Franklin County Master Gardener Class of 2015 and are looking forward to some volunteer projects coming in 2016! Give us a call if you have any suggestions or would like to help. And please be sure to check out the coming events at the end of this newsletter. I will be on maternity leave from Christmas to the end of February, but if you need any assistance please do not hesitate to call our office. Your gardening tips, comments and questions are always appreciated. I look forward to seeing you in the New Year! The Woodford County Extension Office will be closed on the following dates in observance of the Christmas/New Year’s Holidays: December 25

th - January 1

st 2016

We wish you and your family a wonderful and safe holiday season! Happy Holidays!

Picking A Seed Catalog

While we may not be able to garden right now, it is not too early to plan what to grow. Plants and seeds are available from many sources, including local garden centers,

hardware stores, and department stores. But retailers aren't able to carry every cultivar, so you may find it necessary to make selections from mail-order gardening catalogs. With so many catalogs to choose from, how do you decide which ones to use? First, when deciding whether or not to purchase from a particular seed company, you might check out the ‘Garden Watchdog’ page on Dave’s Garden website. The Garden Watchdog is a free directory of 7,849 mail order gardening companies. Gardeners share their opinions on which companies deliver on quality, price and service. You can find this information at the following website: http://davesgarden.com/products/gwd/#b Another helpful resource is Cyndi's Catalog of Garden Catalogs located at http://www.gardenlist.com/. This site references most of the mail order gardening catalogs in the United States and Canada; listing more than 2,000 mailing and Web addresses, phone numbers, and specialties. University of Kentucky Extension does not endorse any company.

Next, you can follow these helpful tips to guide your search:

Ask other gardeners. Most will be happy to tell

you their favorite catalogs.

Check descriptions. Common names of plants are

always listed, but these names vary from region to region. Check the description for the Latin botanic name and the cultivar name of the plant. Botanic names are international and usually don't vary. It is particularly important to know a plant's botanic name when ordering perennial flowers, trees and shrubs.

Check quantities. Many companies sell different

sizes of seed packets and plants. Seeds are sold in ounces, pounds or by a specific quantity. Avoid buying more seed than you need; most seed will last only one or two years. The size or age of shipped plants should be listed. A two-year-old plant may be a better investment than a seedling or row run plant, especially for a beginning gardener.

Check growing information. Catalog descriptions

should include growing information such as plant hardiness zone ratings (we are in zone 6b) and light, soil, and water requirements. Some catalogs will even list the pros and cons of a plant. Be cautious of outrageous claims, and plant descriptions like "vigorous" or "fast-growing."

Winterizing Your Garden

Check the fine print. Before placing an order, review the company's shipping charges, return policies and

guarantees. Sometimes the shipping charges are more than the total purchase. You may find it wise to combine orders with fellow gardeners. Will the company replace an order that you are not satisfied with? How long after

purchase is replacement possible? Many companies will guarantee hardy plants for up to one year. If you are ordering plants by mail order, when will items be shipped? If you are unsure of a company's reputation, place a trial order before making large purchase. Keep notes about the plants and seeds you purchase - germination rates, vigor of plants, insect and disease resistance, and ability of the plant to survive growing conditions of your area. This information will help you determine the dependability of the sources you have chosen.

Picking A Seed Catalog continued...

Source: University of Tennessee Extension Garden Tools and Equipment Maintenance

Clean tools and coat with oil to prevent rust. Scrape off

all dirt with a wire brush or steel wool. Store all tools off the ground in a dry spot.

Sharpen and lubricate all pruning tools.

Drain water from hoses and irrigation equipment.

Disconnect all hoses and store kink-free in garage or storage building.

At final mowing run all gas out of tank and remove

spark plug. Clean and oil all moving parts. A drop of oil can protect parts from rusting. Remove blade and

sharpen to get ready for next spring.

Clean out garden carts,

wheelbarrow and wash spreader to remove all fertilizer and pesticides.

Store all pesticides in a dry location with temperatures

above 40°F.

Use up all gasoline, do not store over winter. Never

use old gasoline in your equipment. Vegetable Gardens

Remove all vegetative matter that may harbor disease

pathogens and insects.

Add compost to improve garden soil for next spring.

Plough or deep till garden soil in the fall. Soil will warm

up faster and excess water will drain-off rapidly, speeding up planting time.

Mulch strawberries with straw to protect in the winter.

Leave on until they begin growing again in spring.

Flower Beds

If not interested in winter seasonal interest, remove all

seed heads and foliage of most perennials and wildflowers. There are some notable exceptions such as lavender, sage and artemisia. Seedheads of echinacea, rudbeckia, yarrow (achillea) and other perennials are also important food sources for many overwintering bird species.

Plant spring-flowering bulbs in the fall.

Fall is a great time to divide and/or plant new

perennials. Apply 2” of organic mulch around newly planted perennials to retain soil heat to promote root growth and prevent heaving of plants over winter’s freeze/thaw cycles.

Remove all weeds in flower beds, particularly winter

annuals like henbit, chickweed and annual bluegrass. Roses

Rake up all fallen leaves around rose shrubs and

dispose of properly.

Cut back roses no more than 25%, removing spent

flower heads and weak spindly growth. Major pruning chores are best delayed until late winter. A good time to do this is when the daffodils are blooming.

Never fertilize roses from fall thru early winter.

Lawn Care

Rake up leaves, woody twigs

and branches. Dispose of grass clippings in the compost bin. Large leaves tend pile up and eventually smother the lawn grass.

Cut the lawn one final time around Thanksgiving.

Backyard Fruit Disease Management Fact Sheets

Trees and Shrubs

No nitrogen containing fertilizers are applied in the fall, but do apply lime and/or sulfur as

a soil test analysis may recommend.

Fall is a great time to plant or transplant shrubs and trees. Nurseries still have good

inventories in stock and prices are greatly discounted. Container – grown trees may be planted into early winter provided they receive a 2 to 3 inches of an organic mulch.

Add 2 to 3 inches of new mulch around trees, shrubs, and trees.

As a rule, pruning is delayed until late February and March. Remove dead and dying

limbs any time of year.

For flowering trees and shrubs, the following general rules should be followed: plants

that flower before July 1 should be pruned immediately following flowering. Plants that flower after July 1 should be pruned in late winter or early spring before growth starts. Conifers, broadleaf and narrow-leaf evergreens may be pruned any time the wood is not frozen. Evergreens are pruned primarily to increase foliage density and to reduce plant size. Cuttings taken in early December may be used for holiday decorations. For more information on pruning landscape trees and shrubs, visit the following website: https://extension.tennessee.edu/publications/documents/PB1619.pdf

Protect sensitive shrubs and trees from winter’s dry winds and potential road salt injury.

To prevent rabbit and rodent feeding, wrap small mesh

screening around the trunks of newly- planted apple, pear, peach, plum, apricot and cherry trees.

Deer prevention strategies should be employed if applicable.

Winterizing Your Garden continued...

Backyard small fruit and tree fruit production requires a proactive approach to disease management. Preventative practices are recommended to minimize pesticide sprays in home orchard settings. The following series of publications focus on preventative cultural practices, but include options for low spray, no spray, and organic sprays. These two-page fact sheets provide basic information on cultural practices and resistant cultivars (page 1) and a table of specific cultural and chemical management options applicable to fruit crop growth stages/times of year (page 2).

The four fact sheets are online at:

Backyard Apple Disease Management Using Cultural Practices (with Low Spray, No Spray &

Organic Options) http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agcollege/plantpathology/ext_files/PPFShtml/PPFS-FR-T-21.pdf

Backyard Peach & Stone Fruit Management Using Cultural Practices (with Low Spray, No

Spray & Organic Options) http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agcollege/plantpathology/ext_files/PPFShtml/PPFS-FR-T-22.pdf

Backyard Grape Disease Management Using Cultural Practices (with Low Spray, No Spray

& Organic Options) http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agcollege/plantpathology/ext_files/PPFShtml/PPFS-FR-S-24.pdf

Backyard Berry Disease Management Using Cultural Practices (with Low Spray, No Spray &

Organic Options) http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agcollege/plantpathology/ext_files/PPFShtml/PPFS-FR-S-25.pdf

The Best Succulents for Indoors

Christmas Tree Care

There are many “tips” to caring for a Christmas tree that propose to make it last longer or stay greener. In truth, all a tree really needs to maintain freshness is adequate water. This is easily done by using the proper tree stand and keeping the water level in the stand above the base of the tree. The following tips will help to maintain the freshness and aroma of a live Christmas tree this holiday season:

Use a tree stand that holds enough water for the size of the tree. The rule of thumb is

one quart of water per one inch of stem diameter. A stand that holds one gallon of water is standard for most trees. The tree will absorb a surprising amount of water, particularly during the first week, so check the water level daily, refilling as necessary to keep the trunk submerged.

Make sure the stand is the proper size for the tree. Do not “adjust” the size of the tree

trunk to fit the stand. The outer layers of wood are the most efficient in taking up water and should not be removed.

Before setting the tree in the stand, remove with a perpendicular cut, 1/2-1 inch off the

bottom of the trunk. This allows the tree to take up water more freely as you will remove any tissue that has begun to callus over. Don’t cut the trunk at an angle or into a V-shape, the cut should be flat, which allows the tree to sit in the stand more easily and provides more surface area for water uptake. Drilling a hole in the base of the trunk does not improve water uptake.

Fill the tree stand reservoir with plain tap water. Additives such as aspirin, carbonated beverages, honey, sugar,

bleach, water holding gels and floral preservatives are of no benefit and only dirty the water.

Be fire safe and always inspect lights before hanging them on a tree and take care not to overload electrical outlets.

Likewise, keep displayed trees away from heat sources like space heaters, fireplaces, stoves, heat vents, etc. Monitor a tree for dryness. Run your fingers across the needles to determine if they are dry and brittle. If most needles break easily or fall off, the tree is too dry and should be removed from the home.

Flame retardants and anti-transpirant sprays have little effect on cut, indoor trees. However, lowering the room

temperature will slow the drying process, resulting in less water consumption each day.

Source: Dr. Leonard Perry, Extension Professor University of Vermont So just what are “succulents”? Generally, they are tender (not tolerant of cold) plants with thick or fleshy leaves. In recent years a whole range of species have been introduced to gardeners, mainly as outdoor seasonal plants, but which make great plants indoors too. Here are ten good choices, starting with three of the older standards - aloe, ponytail palm, and jade plant.

Aloe (Aloe vera) is an ingredient often found in many skin and haircare products. It also is known to be

very effective in treating burns, thus, it's a good lotion to keep handy in the kitchen near the stove.

Pony-tail Palm (Beaucarnea recurvata) is not really a palm at all. It has a

characteristic palm-like shape, stem and leaves, with an expanded and flaring base. The leaves are two to six feet long and are often twisted.

The Jade Plant (Crassula ovata) gets its name from the Latin crassus

meaning thick or swollen, which refers to the leaves and stems of this and many other species. When watering the jade plant, do not let the leaves get water on them because this will cause leaf spots.

Upcoming Events

Zebra plant (Haworthia fasciata) is

appropriately named for its thick, dark green, fleshy and quite pointed leaves that arise from low on the plant. Since its roots are shallow, you can give it a shallow pot. Repot every year or two, as the plants need to get rid of old roots to grow new ones. It only grows about 5 or 6 inches tall and wide.

Panda plant (Kalanchoe

tomentosa) has whitish leaves from the soft hairs covering them, making them irresistible to feel. Leaf edge soften have attractive contrasting red hairs. This succulent grows upright, from 12 to 18 inches tall.

Hahn’s bird’s nest (Sansevieria trifasciata) often goes

by its genus name of just sansevieria (said as san-se-Veer-ee-ah). It has a rosette of wide, tough leaves with irregular horizontal lighter bands. It tolerates low light. It is compact, only getting about 6 inches high and tall.

There are a range of echeveria (said as etch-eh-Veer-

ee-ah) you may find, with thick leaves in rosettes of white, roses, and blues. Most remain a few inches high and wide. Don’t let water sit in the rosettes or it may lead to rots. Remove any dead, lower leaves as these are a haven for mealybugs.

There are several senecio (said as sin

-Ess-ee-o) you may find, generally with tubular steely blue or grayish green leaves, and going by descriptive names such as “chalk fingers” or “blue chalk sticks”.

The Best Succulents for Indoors continued...

Tree houseleek (Aeonium)

come in many variations, from upright with shiny black leaves (‘Zwartkop’ black rose), to bright colors of pale yellow, white, green, and pink tips (‘Sunburst’), or pale yellow centers when young maturing to red and green (‘Kiwi’ or ‘Tricolor’). Aeonium often have woody and long, sometimes arching, stems with the rosettes of leaves on the ends.

Pencil cactus (Euphorbia

tirucalli) is actually related to the poinsettia, having a white milky sap (and other common name of Milkbush). Avoid getting the sap on skin or in eyes, as it may cause a reaction. Plants can be highly branched and get 2 or 3 feet tall and wide inside, but are easily kept in bounds with judiciously pruning.

Although succulents prefer high light, they often adapt well to low light of homes. Best is bright light most the day, such as a south-facing window, or at least a half day of good sun as in an east-facing window. Succulents prefer the dry humidity of indoors, and don't like overwatering. But they do like warmth. Be sure to keep them away from door drafts, and from touching cold windows in winter. A well-drained soilless mix with sand or perlite is the best potting medium. Although the fertility needs for succulents is low, plants may become pale and red if it is too low or they are too dry. One fertilization in spring, with a general houseplant fertilizer, usually suffices.

January 4 – 5, 2016 – Kentucky Fruit and Vegetable Conference, Embassy Suites Hotel, Lexington, KY The 2016 Kentucky Fruit and Vegetable Conference is approaching rapidly. The program and registration forms can be found by going to the UK Horticulture Department web site at: http://www.uky.edu/hort/node/1632. This year there will be sessions on Commercial Fruit and Vegetable Production, Organic Production, Farmers’ Markets, Small Fruit Production, Direct and Wholesale Marketing, Greenhouse and High Tunnel Production, the Grape and Wine Short Course, Food Safety and Processing and the Non Insured Crop Disaster Assistance Program. Preconference January 3rd Sunday evening sessions include Tree Fruit, Small Fruit and Vegetable Round Table Discussions. January 27 – 30, 2016 – Southern SAWG Conference, Lexington Convention Center, Lexington, KY The Southern Sustainable Agriculture Working Group 25th Annual Practical Tools and Solutions for Sustaining Family Farms conference will be held at the Lexington Convention Center. Pre-conference events begin on Wednesday, January 27th with one and one-half day intensive short courses. Thursday will feature half-day field trips and mini-courses. The general conference will be held on Friday and Saturday, and will feature more than 100 presenters discussing such topics as organic and sustainable vegetable production, both in the field and in high tunnels; grazing and sustainable livestock management; specialty crop production; marketing strategies; food hubs; business and finance management; beginning farming; farm to school; community food systems; developments in agriculture policy, and much more. For program details and registration information, visit http://www.ssawg.org.

View this newsletter and find a variety of other information and upcoming events on our county website.

Visit us at: http://woodford.ca.uky.edu Follow us on Facebook at: http://www.facebook.com/woodfordcountyCES

February 23 – 25, 2016 – UK Turf and Ornamental Short Course, Shepherdsville, KY Registration and information coming soon! See the UK Turf website: http://www.uky.edu/Ag/ukturf/index.html. March 4 – 5, 2015 – Organic Association of Kentucky Conference, Paroquet Springs Conference Centre, 395 Paroquet Springs Drive, Shepherdsville, KY. For details, visit http://oak.wildapricot.org/OAK-2016. BEEKEEPING SCHOOLS/CLASSES:

December 19, 2016 – Dadant & Sons, Beginning Beekeeping Tract, 955 Chenault Road Suite D, Frankfort, KY 40601. 8 a.m. - 4:30 p.m. Registration fees: $45 person, couples/families $68. Lunch will be on your own. Call (502) 848-0000 to register. February 13, 2016 (Saturday) – Introduction to Beekeeping, Shaker Village, Harrodsburg, KY. Contact Merin Roseman at mroseman@shakervillageky.org. February 14, 2016 (Sunday) – Intermediate Beekeeping, Shaker Village, Harrodsburg, KY. Contact Merin Roseman at mroseman@shakervillageky.org.

March 12, 2016 – Bluegrass Beekeeping School, Kentucky State University, Frankfort, KY. More information will be coming soon. To keep up to date, visit the following website: http://www.ksbabeekeeping.org/. April 19, 2016 – Beekeeping Workshop, Woodford County Extension Service Office, Versailles, KY State Apiarist, Tammy Horn, will check hives and discuss spring/summer chores. Times, location and other information will come soon, but go ahead and mark your calendar!

Upcoming Events continued...

Happy Gardening! Faye Kuosman County Extension Agent for Horticulture faye.tewksbury@uky.edu

Disclaimer: When trade names are used, no discrimination is intended and no endorsement is implied by the University of Kentucky College of Agriculture. Although every attempt is made to produce information that is complete, timely, and accurate, the pesticide user bears the complete responsibility of consulting the pesticide label and adhering to those directions.

Master Gardener Spring Workshop

“Think Spring!” Saturday, March 5, 2016

Winter Gardening Workshop Presented by the Woodford County Master Gardeners

_______________________________________________________________________________

Start plants from seed on a budget, learn how easy it is to grow herbs indoors and out, and

learn from our featured speaker, John Michler with Michler’s Gardens & Greenhouses,

how to design a garden with perennials that are ideal to grow in our area.

Program: 8:45 – 9:00 a.m. Registration

9:00 – 9:45 a.m. Seed Starting

9:45 – 10:30 a.m. Herbs

10:45 – 12:00 p.m. Perennials

12:00 p.m. Lunch

Location: Woodford County Extension Office

184 Beasley Drive, Versailles KY 40383

859-873-4601

Pre-registration Fee: $8.00 Deadline Tuesday, March 1st 2016

Day of event Fee: $12.00 Saturday, March 5th 2016

This includes morning refreshments, program, handouts, supplies & lunch.

Registration and payments (checks payable to Woodford County Extension Service)

should be mailed by March 1, 2016 to the Extension Office:

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“Think Spring!” Winter Gardening Workshop

Name____________________________________________________________

Address__________________________________________________________

Email___________________________________ Phone #__________________

Pre-registration Fee: $8.00 per person x #______ = Enclosed $___________

Deadline March 1, 2016