wiring guide book - amazon s3guide+revision-04-2015.pdf · wiring guide book electric brewing...

Wiring Guide Book

www.ebrewsupply.comElectric Brewing Supply, LLC

25003 Pitkin Rd, Ste C500The Woodlands, TX 77386

Phone: 832-447-1478

Dear Home brewer,

Thank you for purchasing our DIY electric home brew control panel kit. It is our intentions that these kits help you along in your goal of building your dream brewery. Each package includes hardware, a drawing, and our short how-to, to help you along your way. If at any time you have any questions, please contact us via [email protected] or through our website.

We greatly appreciate your support and hope you find success with our help.

Thanks,

Ryan and Katie Gray Electric Brewing Supply, LLC

********* Do not attempt to build this panel if you have no experience with electrical or wiring. It is also highly recommended

that you have a qualified electrician look over your work if you are unsure or have any doubts. These instructions are based on working designs, and are provided as guidance. It is, however, left to you as the builder to insure that adequate steps are taken to insure proper, safe operation.

*********

mailto:[email protected]

2 | P a g e http://www.ebrewsupply.com

Wiring Guide Rev. 5.1.2015

INTENTIONALLY LEFT BLANK



Table of Contents The Hardware and Tools .................................................................................................................. 11

DIY Basic kit versus DIY Complete kit ........................................................................................... 11

Basic Differences between Basic DIY and Complete Kits ............................................................ 11

Basic Kit Additional hardware ...................................................................................................... 12

Temperature Controllers ............................................................................................................. 13

Tools you will need ....................................................................................................................... 14

What do we recommend for tools .............................................................................................. 14

Laying out a panel door .................................................................................................................... 15

LEDs .............................................................................................................................................. 15

BCS Specific .............................................................................................................................. 15

BCS and PID Control Panels ..................................................................................................... 15

Switches ........................................................................................................................................ 16

BCS Panel Specifics ................................................................................................................... 16

PID Panel Specifics ................................................................................................................... 16

Designing the Layout .................................................................................................................... 17

Our Assembled panel layout .................................................................................................... 18

Bottom of Enclosure Layouts ....................................................................................................... 23

2 element BCS 460 Bottom Layout .......................................................................................... 23

2 element BCS 460 Bottom Layout .......................................................................................... 23

2 element PID Panel bottom layout ........................................................................................ 25

Laying out and cutting the holes .................................................................................................. 26

What Size holes are you going to drill? ....................................................................................... 28

The Heatsink ................................................................................................................................. 30

Painting ......................................................................................................................................... 31

Before you start wiring ..................................................................................................................... 32

Layout inside wiring ......................................................................................................................... 33

Wiring Diagram tips ...................................................................................................................... 38

DIN Terminal layout tips .............................................................................................................. 38



Wiring Layout Diagrams ........................................................................................................ 39

CS Layouts .................................................................................................................................... 40

50a BCS Insidpe Board ............................................................................................................. 41

30a BCS Inside Board ............................................................................................................... 42

50a BCS 110v Door side wire ................................................................................................... 43

50a BCS 110v enclosure wire up.............................................................................................. 44

30a BCS 110v door wire up ...................................................................................................... 45

30a BCS 110v Wiring ................................................................................................................ 46

50a BCS 110v Door Common wire ........................................................................................... 47

30a BCS 110v Common Wire up .............................................................................................. 48

50a and 30a BCS 110v Common Wire up ................................................................................ 49

BCS Element LED Wire up ........................................................................................................ 50

BCS Element LED wires ............................................................................................................ 51

50a BCS Relay control wires on door side ............................................................................... 52

50a BCS Relay control wires inside enclosure ......................................................................... 53

30a BCS Relay control wires on door side ............................................................................... 54

30a BCS Relay control wires inside enclosure ......................................................................... 55

BCS Ground Wire Up ................................................................................................................ 56

BCS 50a 220v Wire Up ............................................................................................................. 57

BCS 30a 220v Wire Up ............................................................................................................. 58

Main Power Connection .......................................................................................................... 59

BCS Temperature Probe XLR Wire up ...................................................................................... 60

50a PID Layouts ........................................................................................................................ 64

50a PID Door 110v Wire up ..................................................................................................... 66

30a PID Door 110v Wire up ..................................................................................................... 67

PID 110v Wire up ..................................................................................................................... 68

30a PID Protective Relay Circuit .............................................................................................. 69

50a PID Protective Relay Circuit .............................................................................................. 70

PID Door Common Wire up ..................................................................................................... 71



PID Common Wire Up .............................................................................................................. 72

PID Grounding Wires ................................................................................................................ 73

PID 50a 220v Wiring ................................................................................................................. 74

PID 30a 220v Wiring ................................................................................................................. 75

PID Alarm Reset and SSR Output ............................................................................................. 76

PID Temperature Probe Wiring ............................................................................................... 77

Wiring the Main Power switch and Green LED ........................................................................... 78

Wiring your Switches in ............................................................................................................... 79

Wiring in your e-Stop ................................................................................................................... 82

Bring it all together .......................................................................................................................... 87

Temperature Probes ........................................................................................................................ 92

Assembling a BCS M12 Temp probe cable .................................................................................. 93

Assembling a PID Temp probe cable ........................................................................................... 94

Mounting temp probes ................................................................................................................ 97

Recommend BCS Compression style mount to kettle wall ..................................................... 98

MPT Style of BCS Probes .......................................................................................................... 99

Tri-Clamp style BCS Probes ...................................................................................................... 99

Mounting PID Probes ................................................................................................................. 100

Power Cable ................................................................................................................................... 101

The basics of BCS ............................................................................................................................ 107

What you need to know about BCS Network Connectivity ...................................................... 108

Directly Connected ................................................................................................................. 108

Networked .............................................................................................................................. 108

Finding the BCS's IP Address ...................................................................................................... 108

Getting Started ........................................................................................................................... 109

System Settings : Firmware Update ...................................................................................... 111

System Settings: Communications Settings .......................................................................... 112

System Settings: System Inputs and Outputs ........................................................................ 113

Edit Processes ............................................................................................................................. 114



Edit Processes: Naming States ............................................................................................... 116

Edit Process: Current State Properties: First State ................................................................ 117

Edit Process: Current State Properties: Second State ........................................................... 118

First Process and Setup Complete ......................................................................................... 119

Simple Ramp and Soak Mash process ................................................................................... 119

Mashing Out ........................................................................................................................... 120

Boil Process ............................................................................................................................ 121

Setting up your PID panel ............................................................................................................... 123

Program your sensor .................................................................................................................. 123

Program auto and manual options ............................................................................................ 123

Using A-M functionality ......................................................................................................... 123

Direct From Auber’s Manual .................................................................................................. 124

Auto Tune ................................................................................................................................... 124

Products Reference ........................................................................................................................ 128

Appendix: Auber PID and Timer Manuals ...................................................................................... 136



You have purchased one of our

DIY kits, now what do you do?



First, check off that you have everything that

you need to build a complete panel.

Each kit will ship with a list of included hardware.



The Hardware and Tools

DIY Basic kit versus DIY Complete kit

Depending on the kits you chose to purchase, your included list of hardware will be a complete list or will require to source additional hardware. The Basic kits allow you more flexibility in your design, but will also require you take more time to source the balance of parts needed versus the complete kits.

For complete kits, you may also have a few steps you can skip as you build, again depending on the variation you choose. While the basic complete kits include enclosures, you will still need to drill and cut; versus the upgraded DIY complete kits where the enclosure will come pre-drilled, cut, and tapped.

Basic Differences between Basic DIY and Complete Kits

Basic DIY Complete Kits

Includes LEDs Yes Yes

Includes Switches Yes Yes

Includes Contactors Yes Yes

Includes Relays Yes Yes

Includes External Heat Sink Upgradeable Yes

Includes Enclosure Yes

Pre-Cut Enclosure Options Upgradeable

Includes Outlets Yes

Includes Temp Controllers Yes

Includes Temp Probes Yes

Includes XLR Inlets Yes

Includes Wiring Yes

Includes Elements No No



Basic Kit Additional hardware

If you purchased a DIY Basic kit you may also need the following, or some variation thereof.

1. An Enclosure 2. (2) L5-15 type outlet and plugs for up to 2 pumps 3. (2) L6-30 type outlet and plugs for up to 2 elements 4. (1) L14-30 type inlet and connector for 30a power supply,

a. Recommend CS6364C connector and CS6375 type inlet for 50a or a cord grip for 6/4 SJOOW cable as an alternative.

5. (6) feet of 6ga wire for 50a panel, 10ga for 30a panel for inside 6. (16) feet of 10ga wire for element wiring 7. (30) feet of red 14ga wire 8. (25) feet of white 14ga wire 9. (40) feet of red/black 16-20ga wire for low 5v/SSR circuit

* If you can, we frequently use multiple colors for reflecting elements, pumps, etc. and their specific control and LED circuits. For example, we use 16 feet of yellow and orange, cut into two 4 foot and one 8 foot lengths, 4 from the BCS to the switch, 4 from switch to SSR, and 8 for the loop across the 2 legs of the elements 10ga wire. Additionally, we use 8 foot cuts of blue and purple for the pumps BCS signals. *** PID design would exclude the pumps, and first 4 foot cut.

10. (15) feet of white 16-20ga wire for low 5v/SSR circuit 11. (20) feet of 10/3 SJOOW Electric cord for elements 12. (10) feet of 10/4 SJOOW (for 30a) or 6/4 SJOOW (for 50a) for power supply plug --- this

could be replaced with a 6 ft range power cable which already has a 14-30 or 14-50 plug molded on one end.

13. Hardware to secure din to plate and mount completed panel to wall



Temperature Controllers

Most important to any build is a means to control temperature. For BCS configurations you will need either the BCS-460 or BCS-462. Whereas for PID, you will have a few options, but we recommend sticking with known brands such as Love and Auber. In your schematics you will find the Auber SYL-2352 pins.



Tools you will need

1. A good pair of wire cutters, you’ll be using them a bit 2. A good pair of wire strippers are highly recommended as you’ll be using them quite a bit. 3. Flat and Phillips head screw drivers

*While both are needed or used, a good ¼” flat will go a long way. 4. 7/8” hole saw drill bit or step bit for LEDs and switches holes 5. Drill with a good bit for pilot holes, usually 1/8” is adequate 6. Rotary tool and/or angle grinder for cutting large square holes 7. Using our flanged twist lock outlets/inlets then you will also need:

a. 2-1/8” hole saw for L6-30 outlets b. 1-1/2” hole saw for L5-15 outlet c. 2-1/4” hole saw for L14-30 outlet d. For easy mounting, an 8-32NC Drill/tap bit for drilling and taping holes for the

screws. 8. For XLR inputs, 3/4" hole saw and a smaller screw such as a 3mm screw. 9. Soldering iron if you use XLRs 10. Masking tape and Sharpie marker 11. Speed Square 12. Tape measure (metric is best)

What do we recommend for tools

In building control panels, we burn through a number of bits, taps, blades etc. as such we come to rely on some, and throw out the rest. On those marks, we usually aim for a few key factors before sticking with something, those being price, readily available from many sources, and hold up longer than one use. For drill bits we stick with name brand but at the small 1/8, 9/32 sizes, most are adequate; at 1/4 and up the split point from DeWalt have proven to work well. For holes saws and taps we stick with Greenlee products such as the Greenlee DTAPM4C, DTAPM3C, and the DTAP8-32 for taps, and 645 series quick change hole saws. These pieces aren’t the cheapest or the most expensive available, but are reliable for everyday use and certainly reliable for a large project such as this.

Please be patient, it will take some time to build your panel.

Plan on a long weekend or two if you can.



Laying out a panel door

First step in the process is to design your panel: Plan first, cut last. There are many ways you can lay out your panel, but knowing what the indicators and switches are intended to convey will help you determine the best layout for your own.

LEDs

BCS Specific

• 110v White LEDs indicate BCS control assigned for pumps

BCS and PID Control Panels

• 220v White LEDs indicate that the Element is actively on • 110v Yellow LEDs indicate that the element contactors are on • 110v Blue LEDs indicate that the pumps are in manual control and are on • 110v Red LED indicates that the system’s e-stop switch has been pressed and locked • 220v Green LED indicates that the control panel is on and power is coming in



Switches

Each design ships with a number of switches, PID or BCS specific, and not specific. Each kit includes a key switch, intended for the main power so that a panel can be locked from use. Additionally, they each come with a mushroom, maintained, twist to unlock, button; otherwise referred to as the e-stop. This estop is intended to halt any process(es) that may be occurring while brewing without completely disrupting or shutting down everything. This allows the user to react to a problem by simply pressing the button, correcting, and continuing.

BCS Panel Specifics

3-way switches are used throughout the front of the BCS panel to allow an Auto (or BCS controlled) function with manual over-ride. This comes in handy with the pumps when one needs to be primed to start. By having auto for the pumps, the user can take advantage of remote control via the web interface to allow for automated steps or starts.

For the 30a control panel the 3 way selection refers to [ BCS (Auto) – Off – On ] for pumps only; for elements the switch selects between element contactors [ Boil – Off – HLT ] (or vice versa).

For the 50a control panel the 3-way selection refers to [ BCS (Auto) – Off – On ] for both the pumps and elements.

For completes, also included is a green push button intended to be an Input button for easy process exit conditions, and 2-way switch for on-off control of the buzzer alarm LED, again for easy temporary silencing.

PID Panel Specifics

Because of the simpler aspects of the PID setups, there are more 2-way switches than 3. This is because unlike the BCS, much of the PID control panel is intended for direct user control.

For the 30a control panel the 3 way selection for elements, selects between elements [ Boil – Off – HLT ] (or vice versa). Otherwise, each 2-way switch is intended for either a pump, an element contactor or an alarm. To make you wiring and layout go smoother, we recommend using only



one 2-way switch and daisy connecting each of the alarm outputs of your PIDs and timer to this switch. The additional switches are available for those who prefer individual switches for alarm outputs.

Designing the Layout

While we build our panels using a consistent layout with our enclosures, this may not be your preferred approach. The following are our layout designs for BCS as well as PID:

Scale = 40mm or approx. 1-1/2 inch

30a BCS Basic DIY Panel Layout



Our Assembled panel layout

The following is the usual layout used for panels built. The metric measurement is easiest due to the import factor, with dimensions of 400mm x 400mm for the door. The grid below is broken into 50mm increments.

PB

5cm

5cm

32.7 mm

POWER STOP

ALARM

ELEMENT SELECT

INPUT

WATER PUMP

POWER

WORT PUMP

32.7 mm

5cm

30a BCS Complete Panel Layout



50a BCS Basic DIY Panel Layout



Alternative layout

The following is the usual layout used for panels built. The metric measurement is easiest due to the import factor, with dimensions of 400mm x 400mm for the door. The grid below is broken into 50mm increments.

PB

5cm

5cm

32.7 mm

POWER STOP

ALARM

INPUT

WATER PUMP

POWER

WORT PUMP

32.7 mm

5cm

50a BCS Complete DIY Panel Layout



30a PID Panel Layout



50a PID Panel Layout



Bottom of Enclosure Layouts

These are tried and tested with success. We have even added more to the bottom of these enclosures; but for most this will cover the design.

2 element BCS 460 Bottom Layout

50mm 50mm 50mm 50mm 50mm 50mm 50mm 50mm

45mm

45mm

45mm

Front Side (door side)

Back Side (wall side)

Hing

e sid

eLatch Side

1-¾”2-1/8"

Boil2-1/8"

HLT2-¼Main Power

1-¾”¾” ¾”¾”7/8” ¾”

40mm 40mm40mm

55mm

2 element BCS 460 Bottom Layout


45mm

45mm

45mm



Hing

e sid

eLatch Side

1-¾”2-1/8"

Boil2-1/8"

HLT2-¼Main Power

1-¾”

¾” ¾”¾”

7/8”

¾”

40mm 40mm40mm

55mm

¾” ¾”¾”¾”

40mm 40mm40mm

25mm

45mm



2 element PID Panel bottom layout


45mm

45mm

45mm



Hing

e sid

eLatch Side

¾”¾”

1-¾”

1-¾”

67.5 mm

2-1/8"Boil

2-1/8"HLT



Laying out and cutting the holes

To cut the holes for your panel, you will need: Painters tape, a Sharpie marker, tape measure, speed square and an idea for your layout.



In order to insure that the heat produced, escapes some place, it is highly recommended that you use an external heat sink. Our drilled and pre-tapped heat sinks have standard dimension, and therefore layouts for easy install.

As for the bottom, the following shows our 50a 4-element standard layout. With a grid of 50mm wide by 45mm depth (front to back. The temperature probes are 40mm apart).



What Size holes are you going to drill?

- For switches a 7/8” hole - For LEDs a 7/8” hole - For the XLR Network connector, a 7/8” hole - For Flanged inlets for 30a and 50a power supplies you will need a 2-1/4”

o For Green Lee hole saws, you may have trouble finding 2-1/4”, we use 2-1/8” and grind out due to availability problems (discontinued as of 1/1/2014).

- For flanged outlets for elements, a 2-1/8” hole - For flanged outlets for pumps, a 1-3/4” hole - For XLR Connections, 3/4" hole

*Layout may differ slightly as we have had a number of minor revisions either by vendors or ourselves.



To insure your drill bit doesn’t walk while cutting a hole, use a small bit, 1/8”, to create a pilot hole for each larger hole.

Use your 7/8” hole saw, after drilling the pilot holes.



The Heatsink

To cut the top out, for the quickest results, use an angle grinder. You may also use a rotary tool. It is also important to note that the screw holes for the heat sink are at 0mm, 152.5mm, and 305mm apart running the length of the heat sink, these are then centered, and placed at 20 mm from the back and 160mm from back (for 140mm between front and back screws).

305 mm to centers

335 mm

140mm gap160 mm from center

Cutting line

Cutting line

Drawing included with heat sink.



Painting

Once you’re done cutting and drilling, do a dry fit of all your hardware to insure it fits properly. If you are satisfied and want to, dis-assemble the enclosure in order to paint it. Painting can hide any scratches or other un-intended mistakes on the original paint. The hinge pins can be removed with a hammer and flat head screw driver, then using the Phillips screw driver and wrench to remove the mount attached to the enclosure. Be sure to go over every inch to be painted with sand paper, otherwise your paint will peel off.



Before you start wiring It is important to note a few steps in the build process here, as well as a few key design aspects. To keep things as simple as possible, it is generally easiest to work in segments; while this book combines door and enclosure wiring, each aspect can be considered a separate stage. The reason for combining door and enclosure layouts going forward is so that you may see the grand plan as you build.

As you begin to wire your panel, you can consider your build in 6 stages:

1. Drill, cut and otherwise prep enclosure. If desired sand and paint it, allow to dry a minimum 24 hours to minimize damage from working on the wiring.

2. Place hardware on the mounting board from the enclosure, but keep the board out of the box. Wire this board as much as possible, it’s okay to sacrifice some excess wire later for a cleaner and easier finish later.

3. Wire the door with the common, the 110v, and in case of BCS the 5v+, while it is still detached from the enclosure, this way you’re not straining yourself or the door hinge more than necessary.

4. Install the heat sink on the enclosure, and wire it with the low voltage points (+/- input side) wires towards the back of the enclosure. Once these wires are in, install the board, wired. Once the board is bolted down, install the flanged outlets and inlets, XLRs, etc. As mentioned before, a good 3mm and 8-32 drill and tap bits are handy here.

5. Once the outlets are installed, attach the wired door, and wire it up. 6. If all is good to go, test.

a. It’s important to note, that all SSR circuits will still read 120v even in off, this is a natural part of their design. While it will read 120v, the current that flows is just enough to make an LED glow dim, once the element is attached they will go dark.

We recommend this process as it should help keep the build more manageable for you.



Layout inside wiring In our builds we use 2 1/3m cuts, plus a smaller 1/6m cut of DIN rail, the package includes 3 cuts in order to allow for more flexibility in your build. You will need to plan your layout before mounting your DIN rail in order to insure you have all the room you need. Once you have a layout, mark it and then using either self-tapping screws or drilling holes and tapping, install your DIN rails on the plate.



This is our standard DIN rail layout, it allows for easy access to most points on the hardware with an open center. We use this for both the BCS and PID layouts.

1/6 Meter DIN Rail

1/3 meter DIN rail2-3/4"

2-3/4"

BCS Mount Holes

5 in

2-1/2"



Because of the rigidity of 10ga wire, extra terminal blocks are used to hard wire as much as possible to the enclosure plate before installing the plate into the enclosure. The 2 groupings of 2 terminal blocks on the bottom row act as a solid connection for the LED connections for the 220v element indicators. There are other ways to approach this, but by using the 4 blocks, the wire is secure, and it allows for easier access for wiring the outlets once in the enclosure.

The board layout has (2) 1/3m cuts of DIN rail mounted at 2-3/4 inches from the top of the panel and the bottom. Additionally, the left hand rail is about 1/6th meter (or half of the 1/3m rail) and is mounted 2-3/8 inches from the left. The same goes for the BCS on the right, which is centered between the rails, with 2 screws at 5 inches apart (find center between rails, and measure 2.5 inches from either side).

110v Hot, split to outlet and e-stop from 15a

5 Common (blue line) Blocks

5 Ground Blocks

Will be used to pass 220v 10ga wire from top to lower

contactors

SSRs for Pump Control

Used to easily secure “element on” LED out wire, usually mounted top

side, then to outlets

SSRs for Pump Control

Contactors for

Groupings of 3 and 2 terminal blocks to distribute power from main contactor

to breakers.



In order to speed up the wiring, colors are used for quick identification, in this case yellow 18ga will be HLT, orange will be Boil, while blue will be water pump, and purple the wort pump. It is also important to note that the colors are used on the BCS signal lines primarily here. From the BCS the wire is run to the door. For the 50a design it is important to note that each colored wire is run to the door. In the 30a design, because you are selecting which element to use only, the orange and yellow, from the BCS will go directly to the relays on the heat sink instead of to the door.

The 14 ga 110v wire is either black or red in the picture. With the 110v line, there are basically 3 paths from the door to the enclosure that must be identified from the 5 that come from above board: 1) The main power to the door from the breaker line. 2) the loop back for the main power switch that runs from one leg of the contactor to the door and back to the contactor coil – this can be cut as one long loop back. 3 and 4) The power from the switch(es) on the door for to the contactors for the elements. 5) The power from the e-stop to the first pump relay, which is then daisy chained to the second.

Since the picture is of a 30a board, the orange and yellow wire from the BCS is set aside already to be connected to the relays on the heat sink.

30a BCS Board wired



** Bottom right 2 terminal blocks are for the 2 pump wires to the door. From these two blocks we’ll connect to the outlets.

50a BCS Board wired

50a PID Board wired



Wiring Diagram tips

While reading the included diagrams below as well as wiring schematics, there are a few notes to remember. The schematics are a working diagram the wiring, but diagrams that follow are showing you in practice how best to wire your setup. The lines best mimic the paths for your wiring. Is this the only choice, certainly not, but these layouts have performed well.

DIN Terminal layout tips

When looking at the layout drawings, you will find that the terminal blocks are in clusters. While it was hard to show clearly, there is in fact a line between groupings in the middle screw sections. This is where you would then place a spacer. An open hole in the center indicates no terminal bridge:

For the groupings, you will also note that they aren’t groupings of 10 but in this case 5, and in other spots 2, 3, and 2. For these, the terminal bridges are easily snipped down to size with your wire cutters as pictured below. It is also important to cover any exposed metal of terminal blocks with the larger flat end covers, this protects the circuit from shorting and any other less desired issues.



Wiring Layout Diagrams

The following diagram shows a typical 50a BCS hardware layout. Bottom row of terminal blocks are connected, 5, 5, and a loose one, then SSR, 2 loose, anchor, 2 loose, SSR, and anchor. At the end of each grouping, is a cover protecting the metal of the terminal block from exposure/shorting. For 30a panels there would be one less breaker. From that one breaker you can wire both SSRs directly or have a wire go from the breaker to one screw on the SSR, then another wire from the SSR to the second (diagrams follow).

BCS Mount Holes

HLT BOIL

~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A

OUT0OUT1OUT2OUT3OUT4OUT5DIN0DIN1DIN2DIN3

TEMP0GND

TEMP1TEMP2

GNDTEMP3EXP0EXP1

+5VDCGND

Cat 5

WIR

E RU

NS

TO D

OO

R

~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A



CS Layouts

BCS Layouts



50a BCS Insidpe Board

BCS Mount Holes

BOIL

~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A


TEMP0GND

TEMP1TEMP2

GNDTEMP3EXP0EXP1

+5VDCGND

Cat 5

WIR

E RU

NS

TO D

OOR

Pump 1 Pump 2HLT Boil

~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A



30a BCS Inside Board

BCS Mount Holes

HLT

~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A


TEMP0GND

TEMP1TEMP2

GNDTEMP3EXP0EXP1

+5VDCGND

Cat 5

WIR

E RU

NS

TO D

OOR


~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A



50a BCS 110v Door side wire

== Basic DIY Kit Optional add on

5th SSR, Alarm Output (OUT5)

NO N

C

NO

NO NO

NO NO

NO

NO

NONON

ON

O

~ ~

-+SSR-40A

A1 on HLT Contactor

A2 on Boil Contactor

Terminal Block off breaker

2 on

63a

cont

acto

r

A1 o

n 63

a Co

ntac

tor

To Pump SSRs



50a BCS 110v enclosure wire up

BCS Mount Holes

~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A


TEMP0GND

TEMP1TEMP2

GNDTEMP3EXP0EXP1

+5VDCGND

Cat 5

WIR

E RU

NS

TO D

OOR 14 ga

14 ga14 ga

14 ga

14 ga


~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A



30a BCS 110v door wire up

NO N

C

NO

NO

NO NO

NO

NONO

NO

NO

~ ~

-+SSR-40A

A1 on HLT Contactor

A1 on Boil ContactorTerminal Block off

breaker

2 on

63a

Con

tact

or

A1 o

n 63

a Co

ntac

tor

To Pump SSRs





30a BCS 110v Wiring

BCS Mount Holes

~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A


TEMP0GND

TEMP1TEMP2

GNDTEMP3EXP0EXP1

+5VDCGND

Cat 5

WIR

E RU

NS

TO D

OOR

14 ga

14 ga14 ga

14 ga

14 ga


~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A



50a BCS 110v Door Common wire



NO N

C

NO

NO NO

NO NO

NO

NO

NONO

NO

NO

~ ~

-+SSR-40A

To Common inside box



30a BCS 110v Common Wire up



NO N

C

NO

NO

NO NO

NO

NONO

NO

NO

~ ~

-+SSR-40A

To Common inside box



50a and 30a BCS 110v Common Wire up

BCS Mount Holes

~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A


TEMP0GND

TEMP1TEMP2

GNDTEMP3EXP0EXP1

+5VDCGND

Cat 5

WIR

E RU

NS

TO D

OOR

14 ga

14 ga

14 ga

14 ga

14 ga


~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A



BCS Element LED Wire up



NO N

C

NO

NO NO

NO NO

NO

NO

NONO

NO

NO

~ ~

-+SSR-40A



NO N

C

NO

NO

NO NO

NO

NONO

NO

NO

~ ~

-+SSR-40A



BCS Element LED wires

BCS Mount Holes

~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A


TEMP0GND

TEMP1TEMP2

GNDTEMP3EXP0EXP1

+5VDCGND

Cat 5

WIR

E RU

NS

TO D

OOR




50a BCS Relay control wires on door side


NO N

C

NO

NO NO

NO NO

NO

NO

NONO

NO

NO

~ ~

-+SSR-40A

BCS OUT0SSR (+)

BCS OUT1SSR (+)

BCS OUT3SSR (+)

BCS OUT4SSR (+)

BCS OUT5BCS DIN0

5V+GND




50a BCS Relay control wires inside enclosure

BCS Mount Holes

~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A


TEMP0GND

TEMP1TEMP2

GNDTEMP3EXP0EXP1

+5VDCGND

Cat 5

WIR

E RU

NS

TO D

OOR


~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A



30a BCS Relay control wires on door side



NO N

C

NO

NO

NO NO

NO

NONO

NO

NO

~ ~

-+SSR-40A

BCS OUT0SSR (+)

BCS OUT1SSR (+)

BCS OUT3SSR (+)

BCS OUT4SSR (+)

BCS OUT5BCS DIN0

5V+GND



30a BCS Relay control wires inside enclosure

BCS Mount Holes

~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A


TEMP0GND

TEMP1TEMP2

GNDTEMP3EXP0EXP1

+5VDCGND

Cat 5

WIR

E RU

NS

TO D

OOR


~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A



BCS Ground Wire Up

BCS Mount Holes

~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A


TEMP0GND

TEMP1TEMP2

GNDTEMP3EXP0EXP1

+5VDCGND

Cat 5

WIR

E RU

NS

TO D

OOR

14 ga

14 ga 14 ga

14 ga

10 ga

10 ga

18 ga


~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A



BCS 50a 220v Wire Up

BCS Mount Holes

~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A


TEMP0GND

TEMP1TEMP2

GNDTEMP3EXP0EXP1

+5VDCGND

Cat 5

WIR

E RU

NS

TO D

OO

R

10 ga10 ga


10 ga

10 ga

10 ga

10 ga10 ga 10 ga

~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A

10 ga10 ga

10 ga

10 ga

10 ga

10 ga

10 ga

10 ga

10 ga

10 ga

10 ga

6 ga6 ga



BCS 30a 220v Wire Up

BCS Mount Holes

~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A


TEMP0GND

TEMP1TEMP2

GNDTEMP3EXP0EXP1

+5VDCGND

Cat 5

WIR

E RU

NS

TO D

OO

R

10 ga10 ga


10 ga

10 ga

10 ga

10 ga10 ga 10 ga

~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A

10 ga 10 ga

10 ga10 ga

10 ga

10 ga

10 ga

10 ga

10 ga

10 ga10 ga

10 ga



Main Power Connection

BCS Mount Holes

~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A


TEMP0GND

TEMP1TEMP2

GNDTEMP3EXP0EXP1

+5VDCGND

Cat 5

WIR

E RU

NS

TO D

OO

R

Pump 1 Pump 2

HLT Boil

~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A10 ga

10 ga10 ga

Main Power

10 ga



BCS Temperature Probe XLR Wire up

BCS Mount Holes

~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A

WIR

E RU

NS

TO D

OOR

~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A


TEMP0GND

TEMP1TEMP2

GNDTEMP3EXP0EXP1

+5VDCGND

Cat 5

By consolidating to a terminal block the wire up is easier. Additionally, adding the wire to the grounding cluster will stabilize temperature readings in your setup.



PID Layouts

PID Layouts



50a PID Layouts

In our base layout here, the pump switches are 2-way toggle led switches.

NO N

C

NO

NO N

C

NO

NO

PID2352

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

13 14

PID2352

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

13 14

PID2352

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

13 14

TimerJSL-73B

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

NC N

ON

O NC N

O NC



3 4 5 6

2 1 8 7


WIR

E RU

NS

TO D

OOR



50a PID Door 110v Wire up

N

O NC

NO

NO N

C

NO

NO

A1 on HLT (left) Contactor

A1 on Boil (right) Contactor


From 2 on far left main contactor

A2 on far left main power

contactor

To Left Pump Terminal

PID2352

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

13 14

PID2352

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

13 14

PID2352

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

13 14

TimerJSL-73B

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

NC N

O

NO N

C NO N

C

To Right Pump Terminal

NC

3 4 5 6

2 1 8 7



30a PID Door 110v Wire up

NO N

C

NO

NO

NO

NO

NO

Left side Contactor

Right side Contactor


Right side of Contactor

Left side contactor


PID2352

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

13 14

PID2352

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

13 14

PID2352

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

13 14

TimerJSL-73B

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

NO N

C NO N

C


NC

3 4 5 6

2 1 8 7



PID 110v Wire up

3 4 5 6

2 1 8 7


WIR

E RU

NS

TO D

OOR

14 ga

~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A



30a PID Protective Relay Circuit

This circuit is key, if either a pump or element switch is left on when the e-stop or key switch are turned on, the element/pump circuit will not come on; only the PIDs and alarms will power.

NO N

CNO N

C

NO N

C

NO

NC N

C

NO

NO

Left side Contactor




Left side contactor


PID2352

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

13 14

PID2352

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

13 14

PID2352

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

13 14

TimerJSL-73B

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10


NC

From MK2P Relay

To Common (blue) Terminal Blocks

3 4 5 6

2 1 8 7

INTERLOCK RELAY120VAC COILDPDT RELAY



50a PID Protective Relay Circuit

NO N

CNO N

C

NO N

C

NO

NO N

C

NO

NO

Left side Contactor




Left side contactor


PID2352

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

13 14

PID2352

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

13 14

PID2352

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

13 14

TimerJSL-73B

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

NC N

O


NC

From MK2P Relay


3 4 5 6

2 1 8 7

INTERLOCK RELAY120VAC COILDPDT RELAY



PID Door Common Wire up

NO N

CNO N

C

NO N

C

NO

NO N

C

NO

NO

Left side Contactor




Left side contactor


PID2352

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

13 14

PID2352

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

13 14

PID2352

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

13 14

TimerJSL-73B

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10N

C NO


NC

From MK2P Relay




PID Common Wire Up

3 4 5 6

2 1 8 7


WIR

E RU

NS

TO D

OOR

14 ga

~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A



PID Grounding Wires

3 4 5 6

2 1 8 7

Pump 1Pump 2HLT Boil

WIR

E RU

NS

TO D

OOR

14ga14ga

10ga

10ga

~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A



PID 50a 220v Wiring

3 4 5 6

2 1 8 7


WIR

E RU

NS

TO D

OO

R

10ga

~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A

6 ga6 ga



PID 30a 220v Wiring

3 4 5 6

2 1 8 7


WIR

E RU

NS

TO D

OO

R

10ga

~~

- +SSR-40A

~~

- +SSR-40A

10 ga10 ga



PID Alarm Reset and SSR Output

NO N

CNO N

C

NO N

C

NO

NO N

C

NO

NO

PID2352

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

13 14

PID2352

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

13 14

PID2352

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

13 14

TimerJSL-73B

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

NC N

O

NC

~ ~

-+SSR-40A

~ ~

-+SSR-40A



PID Temperature Probe Wiring

NO N

CNO N

C

NO N

C

NO

NO N

C

NO

NO

PID2352

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

13 14

PID2352

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

13 14

PID2352

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

13 14

TimerJSL-73B

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

10

NC N

O

NC

~ ~

-+SSR-40A

~ ~

-+SSR-40A



Wiring the Main Power switch and Green LED

This wiring aspect applies to all the layouts for BCS and PID. The key switch is controlling power from the power coming in to the box, and therefore applying it or not to the main coil.

10/6ga

10/6ga

NO

18ga

18ga

14ga

14ga

On Door Side Inside Enclosure



Wiring your Switches in

The key switch:



FROM BCS OUTPUT FROM BCS 5V+ OUTPUT



Wiring in your e-Stop

From the main breaker the power runs into the e-stop. At the e-stop a jumper is attached connecting the NC and NO contacts on the same side as the power from the breaker. On the other side a short jumper connects the 110v Red LED to the NO contact and then from the LED to the cluster of Common (white) DIN terminal blocks. On the NC Contact side the power is then distributed to the switches, as well as to the pumps.



Backside of 50a door – 110v Wiring

110v Hot side wired up to switches and leds.

110v Common side wired up



5v+ hot wired to door, now the door is ready for the next phase of merging the box with the board and door. Note that on the element switches, only the 5v NO blocks are currently in place.

The back side of a 50a 4 element door wired up with the 110v hot and common sides.



Backside view 50a door – 5v wiring

The back of the 50a, 4 element panel shows a combination of the 30a and the 50a 2 element panel doors. Here the panel is completed, with all wiring from the board inside the enclosure, etc.



A 30a door is completely wired up and attached to the enclosure.

The completed 50a door.



Bring it all together Now that the interior board and doors are both done, it is time to combine the 2 pieces along with the enclosure into one complete package. The trick next is to start by attaching the heat sink with the enclosure. Once the heat sink is attached, be sure to wire up the 18ga GND wire to the SSRs (-) negative side. Next, in the case of the 50a, you need to add an additional run of 18ga wire from the (+) side of the SSRs to the door.

There are 2 ways you can route the wire. The above and below shows routing with a float switch at the bottom of the enclosure. Where we use an XLR connector with a long run of 18ga wire looped across the 2 outer pins. The loop runs about 8 ft and by looping it we can insure the reach to the SSR, and then have the other end of wire go to the door for user control.



Here is a 4 element panel wired without the float switches.

Here is the alarm SSR mounted on the inside of the enclosure. For easy mounting with no marks, 3M exterior super strength double sticky tape is used. Since this is the alarm relay, amperage draw is less than 1, so there is no noticeable heat generated for the few seconds the alarm may be used.



Here is a 30a enclosure wired up where instead of using terminal blocks, we’ve made sure minimal loose wire is coming out of the crimp and with that we are daisy chaining in parallel the second element since only 1 may be used at a time. Because of heat, it’s best to be sure you don’t have loose or random wires exposed as they can cause scorch marks.

The bottom side of the panel is drilled and tapped, so no nuts are needed. The flanged outlets ship with 8-32 screws that grab the enclosure well with a good tap job. We also tie the wire back so that heat can escape cleanly.



Power for the main contactor from the inlet. In this 30a example we are using 10 gauge wire. In the first large screw of the contactor, there is also a 14 gauge wire that will run to the switch and back to this contactors coil for the main power control.

Here is a finished 30a BCS door, wired. The yellow is the wire from the 2 legs of the element for the white LED, as is the orange. In the 30a, the wire from BCS outputs 0 and 1 go directly to the SSRs on the top heat sink.



The 50 amp PID panel completely assembled inside the box.



Temperature Probes Once your panel is assembled, you are approaching completion. There a few quick projects to finish up the build. The key step is your temperature probes. For those who elect to use it, the complete kits ship with appropriately sized braided poly sleeving. While the sleeve may not serve a significant practical purpose, it does help give your setup a polished, finished look. For those using the standard BCS with 8 foot lead, or in the case of PID, RTD temperature probes, a cut of 1/8 inch poly sleeving is included, whereas the BCS M12 cables will come with 1/4 inch. There will also be appropriate adhesive lined, heat shrink tubing cuts. The cuts supplied are intended to be cut in half for each probe, one half for each end. The heat shrink reduces the amount of walking around the poly will do. There is often different colors as well, for easy identification.

The first step is to slide the poly on the wires. This is done in similar fashion to playing with a Chinese finger trap. The first inch or two will go smoothly on, but from then on, you must pinch the wire side, slide poly towards the pinch, pinch the poly side on the wire, then let go on the first pinch, then repeat.

Once the poly is on, slide your first half of heat shrink on, then slip the cover of the XLR on, then slide the second cut of heat shrink on. At this point it is recommended that you solder the wiring to the XLR connectors, then heat and secure the heat shrink. Let the heat shrink cool completely before sliding the XLR cover up the end for the finished look.

When soldering your wires, you need to ID the following:

BCS will have 2 and 3 wire cables, in either case, only 2 are conductive, most often the Blue and Black wires. There is no polarity to the wires, therefore you can connect either color to the input or GND.

PID will have 3 conductive wires in RTD probe cases, it is important to know which are connected to which pins. RTD probes will have 2 red and a white wire. It’s important to know which pins you use so that you can insure the PINs match up inside to the correct pins on the PID unit.



Assembling a BCS M12 Temp probe cable

The finished product should resemble something like this, with a short portion of heat shrink coming from the XLR and the balance holding the braided poly in lock at the M12 end.

1. Add the braided poly 2. Cut the 4” heat shrink in half

3. Put heat shrink and XLR on cable 4. Solder black and blue to pins 1 and 2

5. Apply heat to heat shrink at each end of the cable.



Assembling a PID Temp probe cable

For the PID cables, a lot of the process is similar, but one big difference is you need to keep track of the 2 red versus white wires, as this is key when you wire the probes up. Most often, 1 and 2 are red, and 3 is white to keep it straight forward.

The kit ships with a complete cable, but we’re going to modify it because of 2 reasons, we’re adding the black poly sleeve, and past experience has shown the panel mount side has extremely short tail runs.

The first step is to unscrew the hardware from one end, exposing the soldering. The snip the 3 wires at the solder point. The next step is to slip on the poly sleeve.

Once the poly sleeving is on, take the 4 inch piece of heat shrink and cut it into 2 pieces. Typically one slightly longer than the other. The longer will go on the XLR end, the shorter on the probe end. Slide the shorter on first, and unscrew but don’t detach the clamping portion of the probe connector. Slip the heat shrink between the ears and under the clamp portion. With poly slipped as close to the rubber portion, heat the shrink secure it all together.



On the other end, cut back some of the braided poly, about ½ inch maybe, it can be slipped further down. Strip back some of the outer cover and snip away the shielding to expose some extra wire. Then strip the ends of each.

Solder the 3 wires to the XLR after you slip the cover portion and second piece of heat shrink on. Typically we use pins 1 and 2 for the Reds and 3 for the white wire. We can then easily match this to the 3 wires on the panel XLR side. Slide the heat shrink in place, heat to secure. Let cool some and then slide the XLR cover on. Screw, and that should complete the probe.



Mounting temp probes

While there are many arguments one way or another as to where to mount your probes. There are 2 types of mounting points and where you choose to use your probes will be left to you.

The usual mounting point in our system is on the walls of each of our vessels; however recently we’ve found the probe mount on the Mash tun from some manufacturers can actually be too high and ineffective. For this application we have begun using the probe in a T-fitting at the output of the HERMs coil prior to the wort returning to the mash. This way the temperature reading is reflecting the closest to the HERMs and showing the peak temperature of the Mash. It can be then left to your determination by trial and error how many degrees plus or minus you may need to be to hit your target temperature.



Recommend BCS Compression style mount to kettle wall

This isn’t just an idea on how to approach the kettle mounting, this served well for the past number of years. With the occasional o-ring replacement when you do a heavy clean after a number of brews. These pieces should be included with your complete kit or assembled panel.

Kett

le W

all

Was

her

Lock

Nut

Recommended BCS Compression style mount in plumbing



MPT Style of BCS Probes

Today there are several choices for BCS temperature probe styles, while the compression may be the most flexible, there are some that a purposely designed for clean application. The straight, compression style will work for you in the kettle wall and in the plumbing at any depth you wish along the 4 or 6 inches of probe. The alternative are welded MPT and Tri-Clamp options, while these are an extremely clean finish, they are more specific to their applications.

Examples of MPT style recommended uses include kettle wall and fermentation vessels. The shortest 2” style are still too long to mount on the side of T-fitting like the compression style. If you choose to put the MPT style inline, you need to put it in the flow line of a T-fitting. Mounting the MPT probes follows similar to the compression style, without the extra nut or o-rings.

Kett

le W

all

Was

her

Lock

Nut

M12

Tri-Clamp style BCS Probes

The tri-clamp/sanitary probes on the other hand work well in a number of applications relating to tri-clamp fittings. The shortest, 3” style probes can used in a tri-clamp inline fitting similar to the compression, or they can be used on kettle walls, it is up to you.

M12



Mounting PID Probes

Similar to the BCS probes, the PID probes use the locknut, o-ring and washer, without the need for compression if you mount to a kettle wall. If you have the 1.5” temp probe, these will also easily mount in the side of a T-fitting similar to the mounting of the BCS compression fitting.

Kett

le W

all

Was

her

QC M12

Lock

Nut

Kett

le W

all

Was

her

QC M12



Power Cable For the power cable we also add 3/4 inch braided poly, but use a high quality electrical tape to secure it. We found the heat shrink would not hold on long enough to be effective. Here is our 50 amp power cable, using a 6’ range cord and the CS6364C connector.



Have you finished wiring your panel?



Now that you are wired up, it’s time to setup you system.

For PID skip ahead as the first portion relates to BCS.



The basics of BCS Now that you have a control panel all wired and tested for connectivity, it’s time to fire up and login to your BCS for the first time.

If you aren’t a networking guru, no worries, as the BCS is relatively plug and play.

The basic steps you need are as follows:

1. Connect to your home network if available 2. Using BCS Finder (unless you know your network well) locate your BCS IP address. 3. Type the BCS’ IP address into your favorite internet browser’s address box. 4. Configure your BCS temperature probes 5. Configure your BCS outputs and, if any, inputs 6. Create your first process. Then more if you choose. 7. Then Brew!

Advanced Configurations For the more advance how to on setting up your BCS, please refer to http://bcswiki.ebrewsupply.com/. For the purposes of this manual, we are going to help you hit the ground running.



What you need to know about BCS Network Connectivity

By default, the controller attempts to obtain an IP address from a DHCP server (router). After about 20sec, if no DHCP server is found, the board defaults to a static IP address of 169.254.0.63

For both Networked and Direct Connect options, either a straight-through or cross-over Ethernet cable can be used. The BCS has an Auto-MDX feature and the system adjusts automatically, so it does not matter which type of Ethernet cable is used.

Directly Connected

Attach the Ethernet cable directly from the controller to your PC, and power up the BCS. Type: http://169.254.0.63 into your host's web browser URL line, and you will connect to the unit. Some users may require additional setup if connecting directly, see Additional Network Setup.

Networked

Attach the Ethernet cable directly from the controller to the router, and power on the BCS. Always connect the Ethernet cable before powering up. As the BCS powers up, the router will assign a unique network address to the BCS in order to identify it on the network. This is the IP address that we will use to interface with the BCS, by typing that address into the address bar of a web browser.

Finding the BCS's IP Address

BCS Finder (available at: http://bcsfinder.ebrewsupply.com)

The BCSfinder Utility broadcasts a special packet on the network, and each BCS responds with its IP address. This address is then displayed in the BCSfinder GUI. This is the easiest way to locate your BCS.

Router Connections Table

Another method to find the IP address is to log into the router and locate the BCS in the routers 'Connected Devices' list. Most have a default IP of 192.168.0.1 and will require a user and password (default user:passwd is usually admin:admin). In the router's status menu you will see a setup page for Network Settings and a list called -Dynamic DHCP Client List. This will allow you to see all of the attached devices and associated IP addresses on your network. The connected BCS will be listed in this table, identified by its MAC address which is printed uniquely onto each BCS label. Once you locate the BCS's IP address, type it into the URL field on the browser.



Getting Started

Once you have plugged your BCS into your home network and fired up your computer, point your web browser to http://bcsfinder.ebrewsupply.com. Download the utility, as this will make your life much easier moving forward.

Turn on your BCS unit, watching the unit’s network LEDs. If they both come on, or at least one comes on, you should be in good shape to move forward. If no lights come on, troubleshooting will be necessary.

If lights are on, then load up the BCS finder application. You will get a screen that resembles the following.

Ignoring the fact that there are 2 units in this example, you can see that there are 4 points of information visible; the first column is the IP address of your BCS unit. This is the data you want to plug into your web browser’s address bar.



The resulting screen should resemble the following:

In the top right hand corner, select System Settings



System Settings : Firmware Update

You can choose to [+]Expand All or you can focus on a few select categories.

The first recommended step should be to confirm you have the latest firmware. If you received you BCS recently, chances are good you are current, but it doesn’t hurt to look. The reason for this is simple, if you are not using the current firmware, but new temp probes, your temperatures will be off. Additionally, any settings you have are lost when you update, so update first, set once.

By clicking on the [+] beside Firmware, you will expand the screen. If the firmware is out of date, point your web browser to http://bcsupdate.ebrewsupply.com for more instructions, otherwise, continue on.

As of 5/1/13, version 3.7.0, release 2/20/13 was the latest firmware version.



System Settings: Communications Settings

From system settings, once you’re firmware is updated (if needed), go into Communications Settings. We want to lock the IP address into one that is easily remembered; otherwise each time you brew, you will be looking for the BCS unit.

To set what is termed a Static IP address, that you can recall easily, uncheck the “Enable DHCP” check box. You then using the information from “Current Settings”, fill in the Static IP address box with one that is easy to recall, but is also part of your network. Most popular network routers will start 192.168.0.XXX or 192.168.1.XXX. You will have an idea of which by looking at current settings. Subnet Mask and Gateway should be already set for you. Once a static IP is setup, click apply, wait a few seconds, then point your web browser to the new IP address.



System Settings: System Inputs and Outputs

When you click on the [+] beside System Inputs and Outputs you will get a set of tables like so:

In the base BCS 50a and 30a control panel design, the only points of interest should be Temp 0, Temp 1, Temp 2, Temp 3, Output 0, Output 1, Output 2, and Output 3. If you purchased the temp probes after January 1 from Electric Brewing Supply or Brewers Hardware and you are using Firmware version 3.7.0 or later, your Thermistor Coefficients will already be correct.

For Temp 0 through 3 (through 7 in case of BCS 462), the input box allows you to name each temperature input. For this example, we’ll use a HERMs configuration with the fourth temperature probe in our plate chiller for knockout. Therefore we set Temp0 to HLT, Temp1 to MASH, Temp2 to Kettle, and Temp3 to Knockout or Plate Chiller. Once these are set, click Apply, saving this configuration.

Moving down the settings, we can choose to uncheck “Enable” on the Discrete Inputs as we aren’t using any, and therefore no reason to show them as an option later.



For Discrete Outputs, our main interests are Output 0 through Output 3. These are the outputs on the BCS that we tied the SSRs to earlier when wiring the panel. Again, here we can also uncheck the “Enable” boxes for Output 4 and 5. For our HERMS setup we changed the names for Output 0 through 3 to Output 0 = HLT Element, Output 1 = Kettle Element, Output 2 = Water Pump, and Output 3 = Wort Pump. Again, click apply and save the configuration.

The end result should resemble:

Your basic settings are now done. Let’s create your first process.



Edit Processes

Now that you have configured your BCS, the key to using your BCS is your processes. These are the actual steps your automated system will take while you brew. Much of what you can do with these we will side step in an effort to give you the basics you need to get brewing.

Our first process will be simple; the goal being to heat your water to strike temperature. For our own process, I usually put my strike water into my Mash kettle, and pump it through my HERMS coil which is submersed in the HLT. This may not be how you approach your brew day, and for that reason, you will want to adjust your process accordingly, but for demonstration purposes, we’ll use my own.

When you click on Edit Processes at the top you will be brought to the following page:

Note the fact that everything is vanilla at the moment, no name for the process, as well as for any of its states. We’re going to change this by starting with naming. I usually name first as it helps lead the process setup later.



Edit Processes: Naming States

As you can see, this process will have 2 states, “Heating to 155” and “Hold at Strike”.

Once you apply, you will see the state Drop down update with the names, telling you where you are in your process:



Edit Process: Current State Properties: First State

In Current State properties, the easy thought approach is: “What do I want on? How long do I want it on? At what temperature do I want to be”. For the case of heating to strike, we want the HLT to heat the strike water to 155 degrees and then alert us so that we can add our grains to the strike water. Simple, right?

In order to accomplish our goal, the steps for Heat to 155 state are:

1. Click the square checkbox beside Out0: HLT Element, enabling Control 2. Click the radio (circular) button under PID Controlled 3. Change Temperature setpoint from default of 75 to 155 4. Scroll down to Exit Conditions 5. Click the square checkbox beside Enable Exit 0 6. For Input Temp0:HLT should be selected by default, no need to change this. 7. For Condition change the default from “---“ to is >= since we want the temperature of the

strike water to be at least 155. 8. For Value, input your target temperature of 155. 9. For On Exit Cond, Goto State change your state to your next state, in this case S1: Hold At

Strike 10. Click apply

The result should resemble this:



Edit Process: Current State Properties: Second State

For state S1: Hold At Strike your ouputs will remain the same as S0 because you still want to maintain 155 degrees. However, we want the system to alert us that the water is to temperature so that we may add our grains.

To accomplish our goals for our second state:

1. Click the square checkbox beside Out0: HLT Element, enabling Control 2. Click the radio (circular) button under PID Controlled 3. Change Temperature setpoint from default of 75 to 155 4. Scroll down to Miscellaneous State Properties 5. Click on [+] for Alarm 6. Select the desired alarm setting. For this example, we will have it go until we hit the

cancel button. 7. Click Apply



First Process and Setup Complete

Now that you have setup your BCS, and created your first process, when you click on Main Control you should get something that resembles this:

Simple Ramp and Soak Mash process

When it comes to brewing and cooking your Mash, the BCS can shine or it can be a challenge, ultimately it should be your best friend. With BCS you can now take on step mash programs, or single infusion, and keep it consistent from batch to batch. When writing this process though, keeping it simple should be key. While the BCS does have functionality for smarter ramps, it is easiest to show the simple method since.

Borrowing from the first process in this guide, start editing your next process, making sure it isn’t your heat to strike process. Label all your states and the process and hit apply. A sample of labels could be:



• Process: Cook Mash • State 0: Set Temp 140 • State 1: Hold Temp 140 • State 2: Set Temp 150 • State 3: Hold Temp 150 • State 4: Set Temp 160 • State 5: Hold Temp 160 • State 6: Set Temp 170 • State 7: Hold Temp 170

Click Apply to save these tags and then proceed to edit the process.

For the states, we’ll keep it simple, we create the first 2, from here you can copy similar states with different temperatures in place.

For State 0 you have already mashed in, so your interest is in insuring you hit your target mash temp to start, in order to do so, you want to be sure your HLT temperature is within a few degrees of your target in the Mash, usually 1 or 2 degrees over target, but this can differ in part based on where the Mash Probe is mounted.

During these states, be sure to enable your pump outputs in each, without the continuous pumping, the mash won’t reach or maintain your target temps since no wort is moving.

To begin your mash process, in state0, set your OUT0:HLT ELEMENT, PID, to your target temperature +/- 2 degrees (142 for this example). Then scroll to Exit Conditions and set your first exit condition to TEMP1:MASH PROBE when >= your target temperature of 140. Once your mash hits this temperature it should then proceed to State 1: Hold. In hold, carry over your OUT0 setting of 142, but then enable Timer0, and leave set to counting up. In Exit Conditions, set your conditions as Timer0 >= 20:00 for 20 minutes, subbing 20 for whatever time you desire. Then proceed to state 2 and repeat, running through each of your temperatures. If you use a single infusion, then the State 1 exit would proceed to mash out.

Mashing Out

Mashing out in BCS can be a simple state, with only pump outputs enabled. Or you can setup a 3 state process where first state maintains your HLT element on, second neither element, third turns on the Boil element. At the very least we recommend the second and third since by turning on the Boil element mid mash out, you will reduce the wait time to boil later in your process.



Boil Process

For a Boil process, the breakdown is a matter of hop additions, timers, and a new concept in our write up called duty cycle. When boiling with electric, you will find that powering the elements at a full 100% through the boil can result in boil over because, as with gas, the wort gets to vigorous. To adjust for this, rather than using direct on or PID, we use duty cycle.

A little more info about duty cycle: For Boil, some manual control may be necessary in order to reduce the chance of a boil over from too much power. As in gas, where you dial back the valve to reduce the flow, electric has a digital variant called Duty Cycle. The easiest explanation of Duty cycle is that for every 10 seconds of activity, duty cycle determines how long the element is on, and how much off, then cycles over 10 second intervals. For instance, if you select 70%, duty cycle therefore has the element on for 7 seconds of every 10. Note that for this simple explanation, I used 10 seconds, but actual practice this will be a faster window such as 3 seconds.

Within your BCS, you can create your boil process to alert you, or pause, while waiting for hop additions in your schedule, if you use our alarm output this becomes very convenient.

An example of a boil process is as follows:

• State0: Bring to Boil o Out2: BOIL Element PID Controlled 208 degrees o Exit: Boil Probe >= 207 degrees Goto state1

• State1: Boil Start o Out2: Boil Element Duty Cycle 70 o Out5: Alarm Direct On o Exit: Web Input (or DIN0) Is ON Goto state2

• State2: Boil o Out2: Boil Element Duty Cycle 70 o Timer0: enabled Count Up start at 0 o Exit: Timer0 >= 45:00 (for 1 hour boil) Goto state3

• State3: Whirfloc & Hops Add o Out2: Boil Element Duty Cycle 70 o Out5: Alarm Direct On o Exit: Web Input (or DIN0) Is ON Goto state4

• State4: Boil Finish o Out2: Boil Element Duty Cycle 70 o Timer0: enabled Count Up start at 0 o Exit: Timer0 >= 15:00 (for 1 hour boil) Goto state5



• State5: Boil Completed o Out5: Alarm Direct On o Exit: Web Input (or DIN0) Is ON Goto state6

• State6: Whirlpool/Knockout o Out4: Wort Pump Direct On

It’s important to note, these are not the only process solutions, trial and error will play into your process development as you find what works best for your brew process. The goal was to keep it simple, as it should be, but also cover as much as we could to help you get started.

You are now set with the basics of how to setup. For more information, refer to the BCS Wiki from Embedded Control Concepts.

A short cut to which is http://bcswiki.ebrewsupply.com



Setting up your PID panel Now that you have a PID control panel completely wired up and checked and test for power functionality, it is time to setup your PIDs to work for you and your brew day.

Program your sensor

Unlike the BCS that has one type of probe sensor, the PIDs are capable of supporting many. To that end, your PID is likely to have shipped supporting a different type. To setup your PIDs, if you are using an Auber PID, you must first press and hold the SET button, until your display leds change to reflect something other than temperatures. Continue forward by pressing SET several more times until you see SN in the upper box of LEDs. Once you have SN, change the setting from whatever it currently is to 21, this is the code for RTD/PT100 probes. Allow the PID to sit for a few seconds and it will revert back to showing temperatures. At this point you should see whatever temperature probe is reading, odds are ambient. If not refer to Auber’s troubleshooting section of their manual.

Program auto and manual options

When it comes to using PID temperature controls, the temperature is your primary control, which in the case of the HLT or Mash PIDs, is all you will need. However, for Boil, some manual control may be necessary in order to reduce the chance of a boil over from too much power. As in gas, where you dial back the valve to reduce the flow, electric has a digital variant called Duty Cycle. The easiest explanation of Duty cycle is that for every 10 seconds of activity, duty cycle determines how long the element is on, and how much off, then cycles over 10 second intervals. For instance, if you select 70%, duty cycle therefore has the element on for 7 seconds of every 10. Note that for this simple explanation, I used 10 seconds, but actual practice this will be a faster window such as 3 seconds.

In order to use Duty Cycle with your Boil PID, you must enable the option to use manual mode. By default the Auber PIDs ship with manual disabled. To enable manual/auto functionality, press and hold SET until your LEDs change. Once your in the settings menu, press SET until you see A-M. A-M by default is set to 2, this needs to be changed to 0 so as to allow A-M functionality.

Using A-M functionality

When getting ready to Boil with your PID, the simplest method is to leave your Boil PID in Auto and set a target temperature around Boil, but not at boil, such as 208 degrees. Once you’re getting close, keep an eye out, and toss in your first boil hops. If you boil over eminent, hit the e-stop to shut off the element, turn off the element at the switch, and turn the e-stop back off, and resume your boil by turning the element back on. Once you have a good start to a boil, press A-M and then SET, this will change the PID over to Duty Cycle; from here press the UP



arrow until you have a duty cycle such as 70. This variable may change depending on the system, but 70 is always a good starting point. Proceed with your boil once you’ve found your optimal boil.

Direct From Auber’s Manual

For all controller models listed in their manual, the power is controlled by regulating the duration of on time for a fixed period of time. It is not controlled by regulating amplitude of the voltage or current. This is often referred as time proportional control. e.g. If the cycle rate is set for 100 seconds, a 60% output means controller will switch on the power for 60 seconds and off for 40 seconds (60/100=60%). Almost all high power control systems use time proportional control because amplitude proportional control is too expensive and inefficient.

Auto Tune

At this point, the probes should be setup. You could begin brewing but for optimal performance it is recommended you run auto tune on your HLT PID unit. You could also do this for your Boil, but it isn’t necessary for the function unless you plan to have specific temperature related steps carried out in your boil. Once auto-tune is completed, you should not need to do it again, unless you upgrade or replace your vessel.

Before performing auto-tune, fill up your HLT (or boil kettle) with ample water, as if you planned to brew. Proceed to set your target temperature that you would typically use for your Mash temp such as 150. Once your HLT is within 10 degrees of the target temp, begin the auto tune function.

To accomplish Auto tuning, begin by press and holding SET. Continue through the menu by pressing SET until you see At, and change the setting to 2. Once changed leave it and within a few seconds the PID will take control and begin the auto-tune process.

The PID will continue heating and will even raise the temperature past your target set value, drop below it, and then raise again. This cycle will repeat until the PID recognizes how the system reacts; after which point it can set the proportional, integral, and derivative parameters automatically. The auto tuning process should take between 20-40 minutes but can vary based on the system size. During auto tuning the PID set value SV will alternate between displaying the target temperature and At to indicate that auto tuning is in progress. Do not make any changes to the system during this time or auto tuning will not work correctly. Once auto tuning is complete the At setting will return to the default value of 3 and the PID set value SV will return to displaying the target temperature.

For more tips see the Appendix which includes the Auber manuals.



Products Reference 220v and 110v LED Indicators

2-Way Toggle Switch

3-Way Toggle Switch

Mushroom E-Stop Key Switch

NO Contacts

All switches will have 1 or 2 “NO Contacts” on the back. These are attached via the middle, silver/brass colored screw. These can be added and removed as you go if necessary.



DIN Rail

DIN Rail Terminal Block

DIN Rail Connection/Terminal Bridge

DIN Rail Separators

DIN Rail End Cover

Using DIN Rail terminals



DIN Rail Anchor End

DIN Rail Contactor

Low-cost Contactor



Solid State Relay Solid State Relay Heatsink



Power Inlets and connectors

L14-30 Twist Locking Flanged Inlet L14-30 Twist Locking Connector

CS6375 Flanged 50a Power inlet CS6364C 50a power connector



Power Outlets

L6-30 Twist Locking Flanged Outlet L6-30 Twist Locking Plug

L5-15 Twist Locking Flanged Outlet L5-15 Twist Locking Plug



SJOOW Cable 10/3

SJOOW Cable 10/4



Appendix: Auber PID and Timer Manuals

SYL-2342, SYL-2352 PID TEMPERATURE CONTROLLER

INSTRUCTION MANUAL Version 4.9

AUBER INSTRUMENTS WWW.AUBERINS.COM

2014.08 P1/8

Instruction Manual

1. Specification

2. Available Configurations Caution

This controller is intended to control equipment under normal operating

conditions. If failure or malfunction of the controller may lead to abnormal

operating conditions that may result in personal injury or damage to the

equipment or other property, devices (limit or safety controls) or systems

(alarm or supervisory) intended to warn of or protect against failure or

malfunction of the controller must be incorporated into and maintained as

part of the control system.

Installing the rubber gasket supplied wil l protect the controller front panel

from dust and water splash (IP54 rating). Additional protection is needed

for higher IP rating.

This controller carries a 90-day warranty. This warranty is l imited to the

controller only.

All the models listed in table 1 are 1/16 DIN size with dual-alarm outputs.

Table 1. Controller models

3. Terminal Wiring

Figure 1. Wiring diagram

3.1 Sensor connection

Please refer to table 3 for the input sensor type (Sn) setting codes. The initial

setting for input is for a K type thermocouple. Set Sn to the right sensor code

if another sensor type is used.

3.1.1 Thermocouple

The thermocouple should be connected to terminals 4 and 5. Make sure that

the polarity is correct. There are two commonly used color codes for the K

type thermocouple. US color code uses yellow (positive) and red (negative).

Imported DIN color code uses red (positive) and green/blue (negative). The

temperature reading will decrease as temperature increases if the connection

is reversed.

When using ungrounded thermocouple that is in touch with a large

conductive subject, the electromagnetic field picked up by the sensor tip

might be too large for the controller to handle, the temperature display will

change erratically. In that case, connecting the shield of thermocouple to

terminal 5 (circuit ground of the control ler) might solve the problem. Another

option is to connect the conductive subject to terminal 5.

3.1.2 RTD sensor

For a three-wire RTD with standard DIN color code, the two red wires should

be connected to the terminals 3 and 4. The white wire should be connected

to terminal 5. For a two-wire RTD, the wires should be connected to terminals

4 and 5. Jump a wire between terminals 3 and 4. Set controller input type, Sn

to 21.

3.1.3 Linear input (V, mV, mA or resistance)

V and mA current signal inputs should be connected between terminals 2

and 5. Terminal 2 is positive.

mV signal inputs should be connected between terminals 4 and 5. Terminal 4

is positive. For resistance inputs, short terminals 3 and 4, then connect

resistance inputs between terminals 4 and 5.

3.2 Power to the controller

The power cables should be connected to terminals 9 and 10. Polarity does

not matter. It can be powered by 85-2 6 0V AC power source. Ne ith e r a

transformer nor jumper is needed to wire it up. For the sake of consistency

with the wiring example described later, we suggest you connect the hot wire

to terminal 9 and neutral to 10.

++

1

2

3

13 14 6

7

8

9

10

4

5

AL1 AL2

AC

85~260V

SSR

+

-

Model SYL-2352, SYL-2352P

RTDR

R

WTC

mAV

-

+

+

1

2

3

13 14 6

7

8

9

10

4

5

RTDR

R

WTC

mAV

AL1 AL2

AC

85~260V

Out

Model SYL-2342, SYL-2342P

+

-

+

Input type

Thermocouple(TC): K, E, S, N, J, T, B, WRe5/ 26

RTD(Resistance temperature detector): Pt100, Cu50

DC Voltage: 0~5V, 1~5V, 0~1V,

-100~100mV, -20~20mV, -5~5V, 0.2~1V

DC current: 0~10mA, 1~10mA, 4~20mA. (use external

shunt resistor for higher current)

Input range Please see section 4.7 for detail.

Accuracy

± 0.2% Full scale: RTD, linear voltage, linear current and

thermocouple input with ice point compensation or Cu50

copper compensation.

0.2%Full scale or ± 2 ºC: thermocouple input with internal

automatic compensation.

Note: for thermocouple B, the measurement accuracy of

± 0.2% can only be guaranteed when input range is

between 600~1800 ºC.

0.5s (when FILt=0)Response time

1 ° C, 1 ° F; or 0.1 ° CDisplay resolution

Fuzzy logic enhanced PID control

On-off control

Manual control

Control mode

Relay contact (NO): 250VAC/7A, 120V/10A, 24VDC/10A

SSR voltage output: 12VDC/30mAOutput mode

Relay contact. 250VAC/1A, 120VAC/3A, 24V/3AAlarm output

Process high alarm, process low alarm, deviation high

alarm, and deviation low alarmAlarm function

Automatic/Manual bumpless transferManual function

85~260VAC/50~60Hz

5 Watt

0~50ºC, 32~122ºF

48 x 48 x100 mm (WxHxD)

45 x 45 mm

Power supply

Mounting cutout

Dimension

Ambient temperature

Power consumption

Model Control output Ramp/soak option

SYL-2342 Relay contact output No

SYL-2352 SSR control output No

SYL-2342P Relay contact output Yes

SYL-2352P SSR control output Yes


2014.08 P2/8

3.3 Control output connection

The SSR control output of the controller SYL-2352 provides a 12V DC signal

that can control up to 5 SSRs in parallel. The relay output of the controller

SYL-2342 can be used to turn on a contactor or a solenoid valve. It can drive

a small he ater direct ly if t he he ater draws le ss than 10 Ampere when

connected to 120V AC power source. For applications needing two control

outputs, such as one for heating and another for cooling, relays AL1 or AL2

can be used for the second output with on/off control mode. Please see

Figure 11 for details.

3.3.1 Connecting the load through SSR (for SYL-2352)

Connect terminal 7 to the positive input and terminal 8 to the negative input of

the SSR. See Figure 8 and 9 for details.

3.3.2 Connecting the load through a contactor (for SYL-2342)

Assuming the controller is powered by 120V AC and the contactor has a 120V

AC coil, jump a wire between terminals 8 and 9. Connect terminal 7 to one

lead of the coil and terminal 10 to the other lead of the coil. Please see Figure

7 for example.

3.3.3. Connecting the heater (or cooler) directly from the internal relay

Assuming the controller and the load (heater or cooler) are powered by the

same voltage. Jump a wire from terminal 9 to 8. Connect terminal 7 to the one

lead of the load and terminal 10 to the other lead of the load . Please see

Figure 6 and 11 for details.

3.4 For first time users without prior experience with PID controllers, the

following notes may prevent you from making common mistakes.

3.4.1 Power to the he ate r does not flow through terminal 9 and 10 of the

controller. The controller consumes less than 2 watts of power. It only

provides a control signal to the relay. Therefore, wires in the 18 to 26 gauge

range should be used for providing power to terminals 9 and 10. Thicker wires

may be more difficult to install.

3.4.2 The control relay outputs (for SYL-2342), AL1 and AL2, are dry single

pole switches. They do not provide power by themselves. Please see Figure

6, 7 and 11 for how they are wired when providing a 120V output (or when

output voltage is the same as the power source for the controller). If the load

of the relay requires a different voltage than that for the controller, another

power source will be needed. See Figure 10 for examples.

3.4.3 SSR output power does not come from the input of the SSR. The output

of the SSR is a single pole switch between terminals 1 and 2 of the SSR. The

input of the SSR is for controll ing, or triggering the SSR. (Please note we are

talking about the SSR itself, not the SSR control output of the controller).

When switching a North American 240V AC power, the heater will be live

even when the SSR is off. Users should install a double pole mechanical

switch to the power input.

3.4.4. For all controller models l isted in this manual, the power is controlled by

regulating the duration of on time for a fixed period of time. It is not controlled

by regulating amplitude of the voltage or current. This is often referred as time

proportional control. e.g. If the cycle rate is set for 100 seconds, a 60% output

means controller will switch on the power for 60 seconds and off for 40

seconds (60/100=60%). Almost all high power control systems use time

proportional control because amplitude proportional control is too expensive

and inefficient.

4. Front Panel and Operation

PV display: Indicates the sensor read out, or process value (PV).

SV display: Indicates the set value (SV) or output value (%).

AL1 indicator: It lights up when AL1 relay is on.

AL2 indicator: It lights up when AL2 relay is on.

A-M indicator : The light indicates that the controller is in manual mode.

For the controllers with the Ramp/Soak option, this light indicates that the

program is running.

Output indicator: It is synchronized with control output (terminal 7 and 8),

and the power to the load. When it is on, the heater (or cooler) is

powered.

SET key: When it is pressed momentari ly, the controller will switch the

lower (SV) display between set value and percentage of output. When

pressed and held for two seconds will put the controller into pa rameter

setting mode.

Automatic/Manual function key (A/M) /Data shift key

Decrement key : Decreases numeric value of the setting value.

Increment key : Increases numeric value of the setting value.

4.1 Display Status

Figure 2. Front panel

Display mode 1: When the power is turned on, the upper display window

shows the measured value (PV) and the lower window shows the four-digit set

value (SV).

Display mode 2: Press the SET key to change the display status into mode 2.

The upper display window shows the measured value (PV) and the lower

windows shows the output value. This picture shows the output percentage is

60% when in Automatic (PID) control mode. If parameter A-M=1 (see table 2),

pressing the A/M key will switch the controller between PID and Manual

control mode with the output unchanged. This bumpless transfer allows the

controller to be switched between manual and automatic mode without the

output suddenly 'bumping' to a different value.

Display mode 3: Press the SET key for 2 seconds to enter the display mode

3. This mode allows users to change the system parameters.

4.2 Basic Operation 4.2.1 Changing set value (SV)

Press the or key once, and then release it. The decimal point on the

lower right corner will start to flash. Press the or key to change SV unti l

the desired value is displayed. If the change of SV is large, press the A/M key

to move the flashing decimal point to the desired digit that needs to be

changed. Then press the or key to start changing SV from that digit.

The decimal point will stop flashing after no key is pressed for 3 seconds. The

changed SV will be automatically registered without pressing the SET key.

Figure 3. Display modes

3

4

5

6

1

2

7 8 9 10

8 8 8 88 8 8 8

Power on

8 0 0.08 0 0.5

Display mode 1

8 0 0.0A 6 0

8 0 0.0

M 60 means

output value=60%

on manual mode

Display mode 2

1 0 0 5ALM1 (high limit alarm)=1005

Display mode 3

2S

+

Next parameter

M 6 0

A L M1

SET SET

SET

A/M

SET A/M

A 60 means

output value=60%

on Automatic mode

PV

SV

PV PV


2014.08 P3/8

4.2.2 Display change

Press the SET key to change the display mode. The display can be changed

between display modes 1 and 2.

4.2.3 Manual/Automatic mode switch

Bumpless switching between PID mode and Manual mode can be performed

by pressing the A/M key. The A-M LED will light up when the controller is in

Manual mode. In Manual mode, the output amplitude can be increased or

decreased by pressing and (display mode 2).

Please note that manual control is initially disabled (A-M=2). To activate

the manual control, set A-M=0 or 1.

4.2.4 Parameter Setup Mode

When the display mode is 1 or 2, press SET and hold for roughly 2 seconds

until the parameter setup menu is displayed (display mode 3). Please refer to

4.3 for how to set the parameters.

4.3 Setup flow chart

Figure 4. System setup flow chart

SET

PVSV

2S

SET

SET

SET

SET

SET

SET

SET

ALM1

Process high alarm

HY-19 9 9 9

Hy-1

Deviation high alarm

HY-29 9 9 9

Hy-2

Deviation low alarm

HY0.3

Hy

Hysteresis band

AT3

At

Control mode

I1 0 0 0

I

Integral time

P 5 0 0

P

Proportional constant

SET

SET

SET

SET

SET

SET

SET

SET

t2

t

Cycle time

SN0

Sn

Input type

DP0

dP

Decimal point position

Baud9 6 0 0

Baud

Communication baud

filt0

FILT

PV input fi lter

A-M2

A-M

Running status

SET

SET

SET

SET

SET

SET

SET

SET

P-SH2 5 0 0

P-SH

Display high limit

Pb0.0

Pb

Input offset

Op-A 0

OP-A

Output mode

outL0

OutL

Output low limit

OUtH 1 0 0

OutH

Output high limit

AL-P1 7

AL-P

Alarm output definition

COOL 1 0

Cool

System function selection

Addr 1

Addr

Communication address

d1 2 0

d

Der ivative time

P-SL- 1 0 0

P-SL

Display low limit

SET

SET

EP1-EP8

ALM1 1 0 0

ALM2 5 0

ALM2

Process low alarm

Locw 8 0 8

Lock

Configuration pr ivi lege

4.4.1 Alarm parameters

This controller offers four types of alarm, ALM1 , ALM2 , Hy-1 , Hy-2 .

ALM1: High limit absolute alarm. If the process value is greater th an the

value specified as ALM1+Hy (Hy is the Hysteresis Band), then the alarm

will turn on. It wil l turn off when the process value is less than ALM1-Hy .

ALM2: Low limit absolute alarm. If the process value is less than the value

specified as ALM2-Hy , then the alarm will turn on, and the alarm will turn

off if the process value is greater than ALM2+Hy .

Hy-1: Deviation high alarm. If the temperature is above SV+Hy-1 +Hy ,

the alarm will turn on, and the alarm wil l turn off if the process value is less

than SV+Hy-1 -Hy (we will discuss the role of Hy in the next section)

Hy-2: Deviation low alarm. If the temperature is below SV-Hy-2 -Hy , the

alarm wil l turn on, and the alarm will turn off if the temperature is greater

than SV-Hy-2 +Hy .

4.4 Parameter Setting

Table 2. System parameters

While in the parameter setup mode, use and to modify a digit and use

A/M to select the digit that needs to be modified. Press the A/M and SET key

a t th e sa me t i me to exit the parameter setup mode. The instrument wil l

automatically exit if no key is pressed for 10 seconds. Figure 4 is the setup

flow chart.

Please note the changed parameter will be automatically registered without

pressing the SET key. If the controller is locked ( see 4.17 ) , only l imited

parameters (or no parameters) can be changed.

PV input fi lter 0~20 0

Field parameter

definitionnonE ~ A-M nonE

Process high alarm -1999~+9999 ° C or ° F 100

Process low alarm -1999~+9999 ° C or ° F 50

Deviation high alarm 0~+9999 ° C or ° F 9999

Deviation low alarm 0~+9999 ° C or ° F 9999

Hysteresis Band0~200 ° C or ° F

or 0~2000 for l inear input 0.3

Auto tuning0~3. Set to 1 or 2 to s tart

Auto tuning3

Integral time 0~9999 1000

EP1-EP8

LocK

A-M

FILt

bAud

Addr

t

I

P

At

ALM1

ALM2

Hy-1

Hy-2

Hy

d

Sn

dP

P-SL

P-SH

Pb

Code Description Setting Range Initial Setting Remarks

COOL

AL-P

OUTH

OUTL

OP-A

Proportional Constant 1~9999 % 500

Der ivative Time 0~2000 120

Cycle time 2~1252 for SSR

20 for relay

Input type 0~37 0 (K type TC)

Decimal point position 0~3 0

Display low limit -1999~+9999 ° C or ° F -100

Display high limit -1999~+9999 ° C or ° F 2500

Input offset-1999~+4000

-1999~+9999 ° C or ° F0.0

Decimal point position 0~2 0

Output low limit 0~100% 0

Output high limit 0~100% 100

Alarm output definition 0~31 17

System function

selection0~15 10

Communication address 0~20 1

Communication baud rate 0~19200 9600

Automatic/Manual

status

0. Manual

1. Automatic

2. Manual suppressing

2

Configuration pr ivi lege 0~9999 808

See 4.4.1

See 4.4.2

See 4.4.3

See 4.5.1

See 4.6

See 4.10

See 4.9

Manual control is

disabled. Set to 1 to

active. See 4.16

See 4.12

See 4.11

See 4.7

See 4.8

See 4.13

For heating and

° F display, see 4.14

Ignore this setting

Ignore this setting

See 4.15

All parameters are

unlocked. See 4.17

To be defined by

user. See 4.17


2014.08 P4/8

The things you should know about alarm

1) Absolute alarm and deviation alarm

High (or low) limit absolute alarm is set by the specific temperatures that the

alarm will be on. Deviation high (or low) alarm is set by how many degrees

above (or below) the control target temperature (SV) that the alarm will be on.

e.g. Assuming ALM1=1000 ºF, Hy-1=5 ºF, Hy=1, SV=700 ºF. When the probe

temperature (PV) is above 70 6 , the deviation alarm wil l be on. When the

temperature is above 1001 ºF, the process high alarm will be on. Later, when

SV changes to 600 ºF, the deviation alarm will be changed to 606 but process

high alarm will remain the same. Please see 4.5.2 for details.

2) Alarm Suppression feature

Sometimes, user may not want the low alarm to be turned on when starting

the controller at a temperature below the low alarm setting. The Alarm

Suppression feature will suppress the alarm from turning on when the

controller is powered up (or SV changes). The alarms can only be activated

after the PV has reached SV.

This feature is controlled by the B constant of the COOL parameter (see 4.14).

The default setting is alarm suppression on. If you use the AL1 or AL2 relay for

a control application that needs it to be active as soon as the controller is

powered up, you need to turn off the alarm suppression by setting B=0.

3) Assignment of the relays for the alarms

AL1 and AL2 are the name of the two relays used for alarm output. AL1 is the

alarm relay 1 and AL2 is alarm relay 2. Please do not confuse the relays with

alarm parameter ALM1 (process high alarm) and ALM2 (process low alarm).

AL-P (alarm output definition) is a parameter that allows you to select the

relay(s) to be activated when the alarm set condition is met. Please note that

deviation alarm cannot trigger alarm relay AL1.

You can set all four alarms to activate the one relay (AL1 or AL2), but you

can t activate both relays for with just one alarm.

4) Display of the alarm

When AL1 or AL2 relay is activated, the LED on the upper left will light up. If

you have multiple alarms assigned to a single relay, you might want to know

which alarm activated the relay. This can be done by setting the E constant in

the AL-P parameter (see 4.13). When E=0, the bottom display of the controller

will alternately display the SV and the activated alarm parameter.

5) Activate the AL1 and AL2 by time instead of temperature

For the controllers with the ramp and soak function (SYL-2342P and SYL-

2352P), AL1 and AL2 can be activated when the process reaches a specific

time. This is discussed in the section 3.7 of Supplementary Instruction Manual

for ramp/soak option.

4.4.2 Hysteresis Band Hy

The Hysteresis Band parameter Hy is also referred as Dead Band, or

Differential. It permits protection of the on/off control from high switching

frequency caused by process input fluctuation. Hysteresis Band parameter is

used for on/off control, 4-alarm control as well as the on/off control at auto

tuning. For example: 1) When controller is set for on/off heating control mode,

the output will turn off when temperature goes above SV+Hy and on again

when it drops to below SV-Hy. 2) If the high alarm is set at 800 ° F and

hysteresis is set for 2 ° F, the high alarm will be on at 802 ° F (ALM1+Hy) and

off at 798 ° F (ALM1-Hy).

Please note that the cycle time can also affect the action. If the temperature

passes the Hy set point right after the start of a cycle, the controller wil l not

respond to the Hy set point until the next cycle. If cycle time is set to 20

seconds, the action can be delay as long as 20 seconds. Users can reduce

the cycle time to avoid the delay.

tuning from the front panel is inhibited to prevent accidental re-starting of the

auto tuning process. To start auto tuning again, set At=1 or At=2.

4.5 Control action explanations

4.5.1 PID

Please note that because this controller uses fuzzy logic enhanced PID

control software, the definition of the control constants (P, I and d) are

different than that of the traditional proportional, integral, and derivative

parameters.

In most cases the fuzzy logic enhanced PID control is very adaptive and may

work well without changing the initial PID parameters. If not, users may need

to use auto-tune function to let the controller determine the parameters

automatically. If the auto tuning results are not satisfactory, you can manually

fine-tune the PID constants for improved performance. Or you can try to

modify the initial PID values and perform auto tune again. Sometimes the

controller wil l get the better parameters.

The auto-tune can be started in two ways. 1) Set At=2. It will start

automatically after 10 seconds. 2) Set At=1. Then you can start the auto-tune

any time during the normal operation by pressing the A/M key. During auto

tuning, the instrument executes on-off control. After 2-3 times on-off action,

the microprocessor in the instrument wil l analyze the period, amplitude,

waveform of the oscillation generated by the on-off control, and calculate the

optimal control parameter value. The instrument begins to perform accurate

artificial intelligence control after auto tuning is finished. If you want to exit

from auto tuning mode, press and hold the (A/M) key for about 2 seconds

until the blinking of "At" symbol is stopped in the lower display window.

Generally, you will only need perform auto tuning once. After the auto tuning

is finished. The instrument will set parameter At to 3, which will prevent the

(A/M) key from triggering auto-tune. This wil l prevent an accidental repeat of

the auto-tuning process.

(1) Proportional constant P

Please note the P constant is not defined as Proportional Band as in the

traditional model. Its unit is not in degrees. A larger constant results in larger

and quicker action, which is the opposite of the traditional proportional band

value. It also functions in the entire control range rather than a limited band.

If you are controlling a very fast response system (>1 ° F/second) that fuzzy

logic is not quick enough to adjust, set P=1 will change the controller to the

traditional PID system with a moderate gain for the P.

(2) Integral time I

Integral action is used to eliminate offset. Larger values lead to slower action.

Increase the integral time when temperature fluctuates regularly (system

oscillating). Decrease it i f the controller is taking too long to eliminate the

temperature offset. When I =0, the system becomes a PD controller.

(3) Derivative time D

Derivative action can be used to minimize the temperature over-shoot by

responding to its rate of change. The larger the number, the faster the action.

4.4.3 Control mode At

At=0 On/off control. It works like a mechanical thermostat. It is suitable for

devices that do not l ike to be switched at high frequency, such as motor and

valves. See 4.5.2 for details.

At=1 Gets the controller ready to start the Auto tuning process by pressing the

A/M key.

At=2 Start auto tuning. It will start automatically after 10 seconds The function

is the same as starting auto tuning from front panel.

At=3 This configuration is automatically set after auto tuning is done. Auto

4.5.2 On/off control mode It is necessary for inductive loads such as motors, compressors, or solenoid

valves that do not like to take pulsed power . It works like a mechanical

thermostat. When the temperature passes hysteresis band (Hy), the heater

(or cooler) will be turned off. When the temperature drops back to below the

hysteresis band, the heater wil l turn on again.

To use the On/off mode, set At=0. Then, set the Hy to the desired range

based on control prec ision requirements. Smaller Hy values result in tighter

te mperature cont rol , but also ca use th e on /of f act ion to occur more

frequently.

PV

SVSV-Hy

100

97

Relay On

When heating, At=0If PV (SV-Hy), relay onIf PV (SV+Hy), relay off(SV=100, Hy=3)

Figure 5. On/off control mode

SV+Hy103

AUBER INSTRUMENTS

2014.08 P5/8

4.7 Input selection code for Sn

Table 3. Code for Sn and its range.

4.12 Output range limits OUTL and OUTH

OUTL and OUTH allow you set the output range low and high limit.

OUTL is a useful feature for a system that needs to have a minimum amount

of power as long as the controller is powered. e.g. If OUTL=20, the controller

will maintain a minimum of 20% power output even when input sensor failed.

OUTH can be used when you have an overpowered heater to control a small

subject. e.g. If you set the OUTH=50, the 5000 watt heater will be used as

2500W heater (50%) even when the PID wants to send 100% output.

4.13 Alarm output definition AL-P

Parameter AL-P may be configured in the range of 0 to 31. It is used to

define which alarms ( ALM1 , ALM2 , Hy-1 and Hy-2 ) is output to AL1 or

AL2. Its function is determined by the following formula:

AL-P=AX1+BX2+CX4+DX8+EX16

If A=0, then AL2 is activated when Process high alarm occurs;

If A=1, then AL1 is activated when Process high alarm occurs;

If B=0, then AL2 is activated when Process low alarm occurs;

If B=1, then AL1 is activated when Process low alarm occurs;

If C=0, then AL2 is activated when Deviation high alarm occurs;

If C=1, then AL1 is activated when Deviation high alarm occurs;

If D=0, then AL2 is activated when Deviation low alarm occurs;

If D=1, then AL1 is activated when Deviation low alarm occurs;

If E=0, then alarm types, such as ALM1 and ALM2 will be displayed

alternatively in the lower display window when the alarms are on. This makes

it easier to determine which alarms are on.

If E=1, the alarm will not be displayed in the lower display window (except for

orAL ). Generally this setting is used when the alarm output is used for

control purposes.

For example , in order to activate AL1 when a Process high alarm occurs,

trigger AL2 by a Process low alarm, Deviation high alarm, or Deviation low

alarm, and not show the alarm type in the lower display window, set A=1,

B=0, C=0, D=0, and E=1. Parameter AL-P should be configured to:

AL-P=1X1+0X2+0X4+0X8+1X16=17 (this is the factory default setting)

Note: Unlike controllers that can be set to only one alarm type (either

absolute or deviation but not both at same time), this controller allows both

alarm types to function simultaneously. If you only want one alarm type to

function, set the other alarm type parameters to maximum or minimum

(ALM1, Hy-1 and Hy-2 to 9999, ALM2 to –1999) to stop its function.

4.14 COOL for Celsius, Fahrenheit, Heating, and Cooling Selection

Parameter COOL is used to set the display unit, heating or cooling, and

alarm suppression. Its value is determined by the following formula:

COOL=AX1+BX2+CX8

A=0, reverse action control mode for heating control.

4.5.3. Manual modeManual mode allows the user to control the output as a percentage of the

total heater power. It is like a dial on a stove. The output is independent of the

temperature sensor reading. One applicat ion example is controll ing the

strength of boil ing during beer brewing. You can use the manual mode to

control the boiling so that i t will not boil over to make a mess. The manual

mode can be swit ched f rom PID mode but not from On/off mode. This

controller offers a bumpless switch from the PID to manual mode. If the

controller outputs 75% of power at PID mode, the controller wil l stay at 75%

when it is switched to the manual mode, until it is adjusted manually. See

Figure 3 for how to switch the display mode. The Manual control is initially

disabled (A-M=2). To activate the manual control, set A-M=0 or 1.

4.6 Cycle time t

It is the time period (in seconds) that the controller uses to calculate its

output. e.g. When t=2, if the controller decides output should be 10%, the

heater will be on 0.2 second and off 1.8 seconds for every 2 seconds. Smaller

t values result in more precision control. For SSR output, t is set at the

minimum (2 seconds). For relay or contactor output, it should be set longer to

prevent contacts from wearing out too soon. Normally it is set to 20~ 4 0

seconds.

4.8 Decimal point setting dP

1) In case of thermocouple or RTD input, dP is used to define temperature

display resolution.

dP=0, temperature display resolution is 1 ºC (ºF).

dP=1, temperature display resolution is 0.1 ºC . The 0.1 degree resolution is

only available for Celsius display. The temperature will be displayed at the

resolution of 0.1 ºC for input below 1000 ºC and 1 ºC for input over 1000 ºC.

2) For l inear input devices (voltage, current or resistance input, Sn=26-37)

Table 4. dP parameter setting

4.9 Limiting the control range, P-SH and P-SL

1) For temperature sensor input, the P-SH and P-SL values define the set

value range. P-SL is the low limit, and P-SH is the high limit.

e.g. Sometimes, you may want to limit the temperature setting range so that

the operator can t set a very high temperature by accident. If you set the P-

SL=100 and P-SH =130, operator wil l only be able to set the temperature

between 100 and 130.

2) For linear input devices, P-SH and P-SL are used to define the display

span. e.g. If the input is 0-5V. P-SL is the value to be displayed at 0V and P-

SH is the value at 5V.

4.10 Input offset Pb

Pb is used to set an input offset to compensate the error produced by the

sensor or input signal itself.

For example, if the controller displays 5 ºC when probe is in ice/water mixture,

setting Pb=-5, will make the controller display 0 ºC.

4.11 Output definition OP-A

This parameter is not used for this model. It should not be changed.

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TC

AUBER INSTRUMENTS

2014.08 P6/8

4.17 Lock up the settings, field parameter EP and parameter LocK

To prevent the operator from changing the settings by accident, you can lock

the parameter settings after initial setup. You can select which parameter can

be viewed or changed by assigning one of the field parameters to it. Up to 8

parameters can be assigned into field parameter EP1-EP8. The field

parameter can be set to any parameter l isted in Table 2, except parameter EP

itself. When LocK is set to 0, 1, 2, and so on, only parameters or setting

values of program defined in an EP can be displayed. This function can speed

up parameter modification and prevent critical parameters (like input, output

parameters) from being modified.

If the number of field parameters is less than 8, then define the first unused

parameter as none. For example, if only ALM1 and ALM2 need to be modified

by field operators, the parameter EP can be set as following:

LocK=0, EP1=ALM1, EP2=ALM2, EP3=nonE.

In this case, the controller wil l ignore the field parameters from EP4 to EP8. If

field parameters are not needed after the instrument is initially adjusted,

simply set EP1 to nonE.

Lock code 0, 1 and 2 will give the operator l imited privileges to change some

of the parameters that can be viewed. Table 5 shows the privileges

associated with each lock code.

Table 5. LocK parameter

5. Wiring examples5.1 Controlling the load directly with internal relay

N

1 13 14 6

2

3

4

5

7

8

9

10

L

120VAC

Heater

FuseSYL-2342

Figure 6. SYL-2342 or SYL-2342P control the heater directly by the

internal relay of the controller. The heater must consume less current than

the internal relay s maximum rating (7A at 240VAC and 10A at 120VAC).

5.3 Controlling the load via SSR

Figure 8. SYL-2352 or SYL-2352P with RTD input. This is a typical wiring for

controlling the temperature of a tank of liquid with high precision.

The RTD sensor can offer accuracy within a fraction of a degree . The SSR

allows the heater to be switched at higher frequency for better stabili ty . It also

has longer li fe time than the electromechanical relay. A proper heat sink is

needed when the SSR switches >8A of current. For wiring a 240V heater,

please see 5.4.

A=1, direct action control mode for cooling control.

B=0, without alarm suppressing when turned on or when set point changes.

B=1, alarm suppressing at power up or set point changes.

C=0, display unit in ºC.

C=1, display unit in ºF.

The factory setting is A=0, B=1, C=1 (heating, with alarm suppression, display

in Fahrenheit). Therefore,

COOL=0X1+1X2+1X8=10

To change from Fahrenheit to Celsius display, set COOL=2

4.15 Input digital filter FILt

If measurement input fluctuates due to noise, then a digital fil ter can be used

to smooth the input. FILt may be configured in the range of 0 to 20.

Stronger fi ltering increases the stability of the readout display, but causes

more delay in the response to change in temperature. FILt=0 disables the

filter.

4.16 Manual and Automatic Mode Selection A-M

Parameter A-M is for selecting automatic or manual control mode.

A-M=0, manual control mode

A-M=1, automatic control mode (either PID or On/off control)

A-M=2, automatic control mode, in this state manual operation is prohibited

This parameter functions differently for controllers with the ramp/soak function

(see supplemental manual for details).

5.2 Controlling the load via external contactor

Figure 7. SYL-2342 or SYL-2342P with thermocouple input and external

relay output. This is a typical wiring for oven and kiln.

Note: to limit the control temperature range instead of completely locking it,

please refer to section 4.9.

+

-

WWW.AUBERINS.COM

Using the external contactor allows users to control higher power loads than

the internal relay can handle. It is also easy to service. If the contacts of the

relay wear out, it is more economical to replace them than to repair the

controller. In this example, we assume the coil voltage of the contactor is the

same as the voltage of the controller power supply. The voltage of power

supply for alarm is 120V AC. Note: You don t have to wire or set the alarm

to control the temperature. It is just to show how the alarm can be wired.

SSR

N

1 13 14 6

2

3

4

5

7

8

9

10

L

120V AC

Heater

FuseSYL-2352

120VAC buzzer

3

4

2

1

+

-

RT

D

R

R

W

N

Con

tact

or

TC

+

-

1 13 14 6

2

3

4

5

7

8

9

10

L

120VAC

Hea

ter

FuseSYL-2342

120VAC

buzzer

L

N

120VAC

120VAC

buzzer

TC

AUBER INSTRUMENTS

2014.08 P7/8

TCN

1 13 14 6

2 7

8

9

10

L

120VAC

Refrigerator

FuseSYL-23423

4

5

Bulb

+

-

Figure 11. A refrigerator connected to SYL-2342 directly

This is an example for beer fermentation . The ref rigerator is driven by the

internal relay of the controller directly. Please note that the internal relay

output (terminals 7 and 8) is not powered by itself. A power supply must

be used to drive the external relay. The refrigerator must consume less

current than the internal relay s maximum rating (7A at 240V AC and 10A at

120V AC). The b ulb (less than 100-300 W) is for heating. The example is

setup to have the heater to turn on when temperature drops to below 60 ° F

and turns off at 64 ° F. The refrigerator will turn on when temperature is above

69 ° F and turn off at 65 ° F.

Set up for the controller

1) Hy = 2.0. Set both hysteresis band for heater and cooler to 2 degree.

2) COOL=9. Set the controller to cooling mode, no alarm suppression,

Fahrenheit temperature unit display.

3) AT=0. Set the controller main output to on/off control mode for refrigerator

compressor control

4) ALM2=6 2. Set the low limit alarm to 6 2 ° F. Heater will be on at 6 0 ° F

(ALM2-Hy) and off at 64 ° F (ALM2+Hy)

5) SV=67. Refrigerator will be on at 69 ° F (SV+Hy) and off at 65 ° F (SV-Hy).

SSR

L2

1 13 14 6

2

3

4

5

7

8

9

10

L1

240VAC

Heater

FuseSYL-2352

3

4

2

1

+

-

Figure 9. This is the essentially the same wiring example as 5.3, except the

heater and controller are powered by 240V AC. An alarm is not installed in

this example.

RT

D

R

R

W

5.4 Controlling the load via SSR, 240VAC example

5.5 Controlling a 24V valve

N

1 13 14 6

2

3

4

5

7

8

9

10

L

120VAC

Fuse

SYL-2342

Figure 10. SYL-2342 or SYL-2342P with thermocouple input. This is a typical

wiring set up for a 24V gas, hot water valve, or a contactor with 24V coil

voltage.

+

-

S

24VAC

Solenoid valve

5.6 Cooling and heating with the same controller

WWW.AUBERINS.COM

Figure 12. SYL-2342 with two thermocouple inputs.

Connect two thermocouples in series with opposite polarity (negative

connected to negative). Leave the two positive connected respectively to

the input terminals on the controller. The one for lower temperature is

connected to negative input of the TC input. The one for higher

temperature is connected to the positive input.

Set up the controller (assume K type TC is used)

1) Sn=35. Set the input type to -20mv~20mv. It eliminates the interference

of internal cold junction compensation circuit.

2) P-SL= -501 and P-SH=501. This converts the mili-volt units to degree

Celsius. (P-SL= -902 and P-SH=902 for Fahrenheit). To control a 20ºC

difference, set SV=20.

Note, P-SL and P-SH are calculated assuming the temperature/voltage

relation of the TC is linear for the application range. We used 20ºC

temperature difference at 0ºC for this calculation. Please contact us if you

have any question.

5.7Maintaining a temperature difference using two thermocouples

AUBER INSTRUMENTS

2014.08 P8/8

Quick Guide for SYL-2342, 2352

1. Wiring

1) Power to the controller. Connect the 85-260V AC power to terminals 9 and

10.

2) Control output connection. Connect terminals 7 and 8 for output.

3) Sensor connection. For thermocouples, connect the positive wire to terminal

4, the negative to terminal 5. For a three-wire RTD with standard DIN color

code, connect the two red wires to terminals 3 and 4, and connect the white

wire to terminal 5. For a two-wire RTD, connect the wires to terminals 4 and 5.

Then, jump a wire between terminals 3 and 4.

2. Set sensor type

Set Sn to 0 for a K type thermocouple (default), 5 for a J type thermocouple,

and 21 for a Pt100 RTD.

3. Switching between automatic and manual mode

Set A-M=1 to active manual mode. Press the A/M key to switch between

automatic and manual mode.

4.Changing the temperature scale from Fahrenheit to Celsius.

Change COOL from 10 to 2 (for heating mode).

5 Setting the controller for cooling control.

For cooling control , set COOL=11 to display Fahrenheit ; set COOL=3 to

display Celsius.

6. Setting target temperature (SV)

Press the or key once, and then release it. The decimal point on the

lower right corner wil l start to flash. Press the or key to change SV until

the desired value is displayed. The decimal point wil l stop flashing after no key

is pressed for 3 seconds. You can press the A/M key to move the flashing

decimal point to the desired digit that needs to change. Then press the or

key to change SV starting from that digit.

7. Auto-tune

You can use the auto-tune function to determine the PID constants

automatically.

There are two ways to start auto-tuning:

1) Set At=2. It wil l start automatically after 10 seconds.

2) Set At=1. Then during the normal operation, press the A/M key to start the

auto-tune.

The instrument will perform accurate artificial intelligence control after auto

tuning is finished.

7 On/off mode

Set At=0 to active the on/off control mode.

Set the Hysteresis Band parameter Hy to be a desired value.

8. Error Message and trouble shooting8.1 Display orAL

This is an input error message. The possible reasons are: the sensor is not

connected correctly; the input setting is wrong type; or the sensor is defective.

In this case, the instrument terminates its control function automatically, and

the output value is fixed according to the parameter OUTL. If this happens

when using thermocouple sensor, you can short terminal 4 and 5 with a copper

wire. If the display shows ambient temperature, the thermocouple is defective.

If it still displays orAL, check the input setting, Sn, to make sure it is set to the

right thermocouple type. If the Sn setting is correct, the control ler is defective.

For RTD sensors, check the input setting first because most controllers are

shipped with the input set for thermocouples. Then check the wiring. The two

red wires should be connected to terminals 3 and 4. The clear wire should be

connected to terminal 5.

8.2 No heating

When the controller output is set for relay output, the O U T LED is

synchronized with output relay. If heat is not output when it is supposed to,

check the OUT LED first . If i t is not lit, the controller parameter settings are

wrong. If it is on, check the external switching device (if the relay is pulled-in, or

the SSR s red LED is on). If the external switching device is on, then the

problem is either the external switching device output, its wiring, or the heater.

If the external switching device is not on, then the problem is either the

controller output, or the external switch device.

8.3 Poor Accuracy

Please make sure calibration i s done by immersing the probe in liquid.

Comparing the reference in air is not recommended because response time of

the sensor depends on its mass. Some of our sensors have response time

>10 minutes in the air. When the error is larger than 5 ° F, the most common

problem is an improper connection between the thermocouple and the

controller. The thermocouple needs to be connected directly to the controller

unless a thermocouple connector and extension wire is used. Copper wire or

a thermocouple extension wire with the wrong polarity connected on the

thermocouple will cause the reading to drift more than 5 ° F.

8.4 On on/off mode, although hysteresis is set to 0.3, the unit is running

5 degrees above and below.

If the Hy is very small and temperature changes very quickly, users will need

to consider the delay of the cycle time (the parameter t). For example, if cycle

time is 20 seconds, when the temperature passes the SV+Hy after the

beginning of a 20 seconds cycle, the relay will not act until the start of the next

cycle 20 seconds later. Users may change the cycle time to a smaller value,

such as 2 seconds, to get better precision control.

WWW.AUBERINS.COM

Auber Instruments Inc.5755 North Point Parkway, Suite 99,

Alpharetta, GA 30022

www.auberins.com

e-mail: [email protected] Tel: 770-569-8420

1

Multi Event Timer for Beer Brewing (version 1.6)

This timer is designed based on commonly used beer-brewing recipe. It can help brewers track duration

of the whole boiling process and remind brewers to add hops or other ingredients at each specific time.

The relay output of the timer should be connected to a flashing buzzer (sold separately).

1. Description of the timer.

Figure 1. Front panel of the timer

1) Top LED display: In normal operation, it shows remaining time to next event. When remaining time is

longer than 99'59”, the display will show minutes only. If the ^/MUT key is pressed, it will display the

number of the upcoming event (eg. T2, T3...). When an event time is up, it will flash the event number

(T2, T3, T4, etc) until the alarm is turned off. In programming mode, it shows the parameter to be set. In

stop watch mode (NE=1, tdIr is set to Up), it will display the duration of current event.

2) Bottom LED display: In normal operation, it displays remaining time to the final stop of the timer.

When remaining time is longer than 99’59”, the display will show minutes only. In programming mode,

it shows the set value of the parameter. In stop watch mode, it will display the duration of accumulated

time that has elapsed.

2

3) Run indicator: lit when the timer is running; flash when the timer is finished/stopped; off before timer

is started or when timer is ready to start.

4) Output indicator: turns on when relay is on; turns off when relay is off. It will be on at the end of each

event for the duration of “Ad”. This light should be synchronized with the flashing buzzer that is

connected to the relay.

5) SET key. Press and hold this key for 3 second will enter the programming mode to set nE and Ad.

Press the key momentarily to set T1, T2, etc. This key is disabled when timer is running.

6) V / RST key: Decrease and reset key. When timer is running, press it to stop the timer and return to

the beginning ready state. When timer is finished, press it to stop the timer from flashing “END” and

make the timer ready for another run. In the programming mode, pressing it will decrease the set value

of the parameter. Each time you press and release, the value will decrease by one unit. But if you press

and hold it, the value will continuously decrease, as the holding time increases, the speed of number

decreasing will accelerate. You can use this feature for large number reduction. When the number is

getting close to desired value, release the key. Then, press it momentarily for fine setting adjustment.

7) ^ / MUT key: Increase and mute key. When the timer is running, press it to allow the top display

show the number of the upcoming event. (T2 ,T3, etc). When an event time is up and relay is on,

pressing this key once will turn off the relay and mute the alarm. This function only affect the relay. It

will not interrupt the running timer. In stop watch mode, press it to restart the top display as a second

timer.

In the programming mode, pressing it will increase the set value of the parameter. Each time you press

and release, the value will increase by one unit. But if you press and hold it, the value will continuously

increase, as the holding time increases, the speed of number increasing will accelerate. You can use this

feature for large number increment. When the number is getting close to desired value, release the key.

Then, press it momentarily for fine setting adjustment.

8) START key: Start key. Pressing it will start the timer. When timer finished and flashing “END”, pressing

it once will stop the flashing, making the timer ready for the next run. Pressing second time will restart

the timer. This key is disabled when timer is running. In stop watch mode, press it to start and stop the

timer.

2. Setting the Parameters.

There are only three parameters to be setup: Number of events, alarm duration and time of each event.

1) nE, The number of events are the total number of times you want the buzzer to be on. e. g. If you only

add hops at the very beginning and want the buzzer to turn on when the boiling is done, that is one

event. If you want to add another hop in the middle of boiling, it is considered two events. Up to nine

events can be set for the process.

3

When NE=1, two counting options are offered. One is counting down, just like when NE>1. The other

one is counting up. After setting NE=1, press SET key second time and use ^ or V key to set the count

direction “tdIr” to count-up(Up) or count-down(dn). Press SET key third time to confirm.

The counting down option can be used for boiling (when only one ingredient is added), or mashing at a

fixed time. It works just as when NE>1.

The counting up option is for mashing process that is finished by specific stage of starch conversion

instead of specific time. The timer functions as a stop watch by continuously counting up. It provides a

time reference for user when it is the time to check the sweet wort. The timer will not stop

automatically and activate the relay. In this mode, pressing START button will start and stop the timer,

RST button will reset the timer to zero. Pressing the MUT button will restart the top display from zero so

that it becomes the second timer.

2) Ad, Alarm duration. It is the duration that you want the buzzer to be turned on at the end of each

event. The duration of all events are the same. Ad can be set from 0 to 200. The unit is seconds. e. g.

When Ad=5, the flashing buzzer will be on for 5 second. The number 0 and 200 have different meanings.

When Ad=0, the timer will pause at the end of each event and turn on the buzzer, user need to press the

Reset key to continue the timer. This is a feature designed for old school brewing. When Ad=200, it

become “on until cancelled”. The relay will turn on until user press the mute key. Note: When the Ad is

not set to zero, the timer counting will continue when the buzzer is on.

3) TX. Time duration of each event, X is the event number. TX is the boiling time of each ingredient as

commonly used in beer recipe. For example, if hop A needs to be boiled for 60 minutes, hop B needs to

be boiled for 10 minutes. Then set T1= 60 and T2=10. When, set the time, you need to set the longest

time first and shortest time last (T1>T2>T3>….). The value of T1 sets the up limit for T2, the value of T2

sets the up limit for T3 and so on..... If you set T1=T2, event T2 will be ignored.

3. How to set nE and Ad.

Press and hold SET for 3 seconds, display will show NE. This is for setting the number of events.

Press SET again, display will show Ad. This is for setting the alarm duration.

Press SET again to exit.

4. How to set T.

Press SET momentarily, display will show T1, use up ^ and down V key to set the value and press SET to

confirm.

Note, the parameter setting change will not be saved until SET is pressed.

5. Application Example.

4

A beer recipe requires three different hops to be boiled for different time.

1 oz Hop A. boiling for 60 minutes.

1 oz Hop B, boiling for 30 minutes.

1 oz Hop C, boiling for 1 minute We want the buzzer connected to the timer relay to run for 10 seconds when it is the time to add Hop B and Hop C. The buzzer will also be on for 10 seconds when the 60 minutes boiling of hop A is finished Set nE = 3, Ad =10, T1=60, T2=30, T3=1.

6. Terminal Assignment.

Figure 2. Back terminal assignments

Power for the timer needs to be connected to between terminal 9 and 10. The voltage should be in the 90 to 260V range.

Terminal 7 and 8 are for relay output. Terminal 7 and 8 are Normally-open (NO) contacts. When the relay is energized (or when the OUT LED is on), terminal 8 connects to terminal 7. The relay is a “dry switch” that does not provide power by itself. Please see the wiring example below.

Terminal 5 is the start terminal that has the same function as the START key in the front panel. Terminal 4 is the mute terminal that function the same as the “^/MUT” key in the front panel. Terminal 3 is the reset terminal that function the same as the “V/RST” key in the front panel. Terminal 1 and 2 are the common contacts of the terminal 3/4/5. There are two ways to operate terminal 3, 4 and 5.

1) Connecting a normally open (NO) momentary push button switch between the terminal (3, 4 or 5) to the COM (1 or 2). Please note, the function starts when you release (or open) the button of the switch, not when you press down the switch.

2) Connecting a DC logic signal (TTL or CMOS or voltage in the range from 3 to 30 VDC) between the terminal (3, 4 or 5) to the COM (1 or 2). Please note, the function is rising-edge triggered. The logic signal should normally be at high level. The function starts when the signal goes from low to high. If you have an inverted logic signal, you need to connect a NPN transistor between terminal and COM; add 10Kohm resistor to the gate for signal input.

5

7. Back Terminal Wiring examples.

1) Signal controlled by switches.

5

4

3

2

1

10

9

8

7

6

L

N

START

MUT

Figure 3. Wiring example of JSL-73.

120VAC

RST

Power (120 or 240V AC) is sent to terminal 9 and 10. The external switches on terminals 2, 3, 4 and 5

should be momentary type. They are needed only if you want to control the timer remotely. Otherwise,

you can use the front keys on the timer. The buzzer used in this example is also optional. The buzzer is

powered by the 120VAC.

2) Signal controlled by DC logic signal

5

4

3

2

1

10

9

8

7

6

L

N

120VAC START

Figure 4. Rising-edge triggered signal

6

5

4

3

2

1

10

9

8

7

6

L

N

START120VAC 10ke b

cNPN

Figure 5. Inverted logic signal

www.ebrewsupply.comElectric Brewing Supply, LLC

25003 Pitkin Rd, Ste C500The Woodlands, TX 77386

Phone: 832-447-1478

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