wine republic n76

7/21/2019 Wine Republic N76

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ISSN 1853-9610

Nº76 DECEMBER - JANUARY 2015/16

MENDOZA’S FREE MAGAZINEF R E E

F R E E

MendozaWineryGuide

TheShippingPuzzle

How to get

your winehome

www.wine-re ublic.com



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Issue December-January 2015-16 | ISSN 1853-9610.10,000 Copies. Published by Seven Colors S.A.Address: Espejo 266, Planta baja. Departamento 3.Mendoza, Argentina - Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613E-mail: [email protected]: Charlie O’MalleyAssistant Editor: Emilie Giraud.Publicity and Publisher: Mariana Gómez Rus:[email protected],[email protected]

Design: Circlan.com . Jona Conti. [email protected]: Artes Gráficas UNIONContributing Authors: Emilie Giraud and MadeleineBlasbergPhotos: Emilie Giraud and J ona Conti.Illustrations: Donough O’Malley,www.pencilrobot.netOpinions expressed in this magazine are notnecessarily the editorial opinions of Wine Republic.www.wine-republic.com

CREDITS

CONTENTS

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News RepublicFly Fishing in Mendoza.........................................

Wine by the glass.....................................................

Hold that liquor.........................................................

How green is Mendoza?Emile Giraud checks out Mendoza’s

Green Market..........................................................

WishListTry our selection....................................................

The Shipping PuzzleHow to get your wine home............ ...................

Going PublicMadeline Blasberg does the rounds with

Mendoza’s public transport..................................

Out & AboutDining out..................................................................

Winery Guide...........................................................

Bars...............................................................................

Maps & MoreUseful information..................................................

Maps of Maipú and Chacras de Coria...............

Map of Mendoza City Center..............................



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NEWS REPUBLICFly Fishing in MendozaIn addition to coaxing Malbec from a bottle, Trout

& Wine Tours lives up to its name by enticing wild

trout from Mendoza’s rivers. The fly fishing seasonstarts now and full day excursions include guide,

equipment and transport to mountain creeks in

Valle de Uco and Uspallata. While the fish here

may lack the girth of the monster brown trout

found in Patagonia, the countless mountain rivers

are teeming with good angling opportunities

and it is a chance to escape into the Wild to hunt

rainbow and brown trout in their natural habitat.

Price’s start at $150 US per person for a no frills day

fishing or you can also get an upgrade that includes

a riverside asado with wine. Price $260 US per

person. Contact [email protected]. Tel. (0261)

4255613. Trout & Wine Tours, Espejo 266. www.

troutandwine.com.

Wine by the GlassIt might seem a cruel joke, but for a place

awash with wine, Mendoza has always lacked

a good selection of city center wine bars. This

is especially true since The Vines of Mendoza

Tasting Room moved south to Uco Valley las year

and options became very limited to try multiple

wines by the glass on a casual night out. Cantina

Wine Club seeks to buck that trend. Set in the

heart of Beer Street – Aristides Villanueva, thisslick, cosmopolitan bar and restaurant offers an

excellent choice of wines, many of which can be

tried without having to buy a whole bottle.

Hold That LiquorNow that gin & tonic is back in fashion (was it ever

out?) we’d like to take the opportunity to plug a gin

made here in Mendoza. Principe d los Apostoles isdistilled at Sol de los Andes distillery and it is an

unusual but very tasty Argentine infusion of mate

tea, eucalyptus, peppermint and pink grapefruit

skin. It is a formula that works well as production

has grown exponentially from 4,000 bottles to

40,000 since it was first started in 2013 and it is

now exported to the very home of gin, the United

Kingdom. Available in all good wine stores and

bars. www.apostolesgin.com.



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AT first sight, Mendoza seems to fit

the bill as a green conscious city. Its urbanplanning includes the huge green lungs ofthe 450-hectare Parque General San Martin,one of the most spectacular and well caredfor municipal parks on the continent. Thecity’s dramatic setting in the foothills of theAndes inspires awe and respect for nature andthe great outdoors. It is an oasis surroundedby desert, and relies on a fragile system of

waterways and trees to generate humidityand shade. Constant water shortages duringthe summer months make it all too plain ourdependence on the precious liquid. Also theprovince is the orchard of Argentina and itsbiggest fruit producer, much of it organic. Addto this the fact that it is geographically flat andtherefore perfect for the cycle lanes that arenow appearing around the city

Unfortunately the reality is somewhatdifferent and Mendoza’s green credentials aresomewhat thin on the ground. People wastewater and it is not treated as the preciouscommodity it is.

How Green is

Emilie Giraud checks

out Mendoza’s

Green Market

Mendoza?



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Houses are poorly insulated and burn excessenergy on heating in the winter months. Solarenergy is non-existent in a province withan abundance of sun-filled days and wastebins are so rare people litter constantly. Thisis particulary obvious in the outlying towns

where waste management involves loadingyour car up with that week’s garbage anddriving to the outskirts of town and dumpingwherever you wish, normally in front of alocal tourist feature. Residents burn waste orleaves constantly and habitually contaminatethe waterways.

On the road the car is king and only the bravesteco-friendly activists will dare to cycle outside

the cycle lanes. And that is not to mentionthe humble pedestrians who risk their liveseveryday crossing the road in a city withoutone zebra crossing.

Thankfully the green agenda is slowly butsurely reaching the Andean Capital. A verypopular and recent environmental initiativeis the Mendoza Green Market. Started inNovember 2013, this “crazy idea by three crazywomen is now followed by many other crazypeople “, as Jazmin, one of its creators puts it.

The Green Market happens in different citylocations and offers a great opportunity to go offthe traditional tourist circuit. It is an excellentway to try local products and experience localhosptality.

The most recent markets have been in ParkRaul Alfonsin, to the south of the city center,near the borough of Godoy Cruz. There you’llfind almost 50 colorful and flowery stands runby small eco-friendly producers offerering agreat diversity of goods ranging from healthywhole-flour pizzas to herbal salt. Veggieburgers abound but also gluten-free desserts,organic ice-cream, raw milk yogurt, artesanalbeers, organic or biodynamic wines and

honey. You will even find recycled bikes andfurniture.All the small producers are from the regionand follow organic practices or at least add agreen touch to their goods.



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“People don’t always buy, but what you noticeis that they are very attentive listeners“, saysJazmin, and it’s not rare to see small groups ofpeople getting the low down on how to makehumus or an impromptu class on recycling orwhat exactly is biodynamic farming.

“When you walk through the green market,you come across scenes of old ladies eatingvegan sausage rolls and teenagers tryingorganic home-made juices rather than cocacola”The event also offers free activities like yoga,chi kung and cookery classes. There is evenlive music and local NGOs are invited to comeand push their message.

“Some people dismiss it as a fashionable trend.I have to say that I am ok with this kind offashion“, adds Jazmin.The Green Market is definitely a popular eventwith an average of 30,000 people attendingover the weekend. Everything from hipsters,families, gastronomic professionals, passer-bys, cyclists, runners, hippies, skaters and

artists.

The Green Market is clearly becoming aninstitution in Mendoza and it is not rare to spotpeople carrying the flashy green reusable bagsor come across the next event advertised onthe city’s billboards.From twice a year, it is now held every sixweeks and should become a monthly event by2016.

The green wave seems to have finally reachedMendoza.

Mendoza Green Market. Checktheir Facebook page “ Mendoza

Green Market “ for the next

happening.



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MORIRSE DE AMOR 2013 - OmarAraujo - 1900 bottles -Winelover Omar Araujo pulled out all thestops for this 2013 blend of Malbec, Merlot

and Cabernet Sauvignon from Uco. Aged18 months in oak, this concentrated full-bodied wine expresses aromas of red andblack fruits, with leather and tobacconotes in the nose and sweet yet vibranttannins in the mouth. Contact Omar at :[email protected] or + 54 9261 6647725 - 310 pesos with delivery inMendoza and wine crock. 10 % discountmentioning Wine Republic.

BIOLENTO 2014 - MAAL Wines -6444 bottles

MAAL wine is the project of Matiasand Alfredo, two Malbec fanatics fromMendoza. Biolento is a fresh and juicyMalbec sourced from a 95-year oldvineyard in the heart of Chacras de Coria.Vinoteca Wine O’Clock -Vinoteca Sol y Vino - 210 pesos

Bacan Reserva Sauvignon Blanc2014 - Giuseppe Franceschini -3000 bottlesItalian winemaker GiuseppeFranceschini proves Argentina iscapable of making great whites. Thegrapes of this vibrant Sauvignon Blancwere sourced in a 13-year old vineyardin Vista Flores, Uco Valley andfermentation was in oak barrel..Sol y Vino Vinoteca - 350 pesos -

Lost in the Andes - Malbec GranReserva 2011- 2000 bottlesTexan Mark Addington switchedhemispheres to realize his dream ofmaking wine. Lost in the Andes is ablend of 85% Malbec with 15% PetitVerdot from a an 80 year-old and a 100-

year old vineyard respevyively, locatedin Lunlunta district, Maipu. Aged innew, French oak barrels for 14 months,the result is a robust and full bodied-wine with intense chocolate, plum andstrawberry aromas.Sol y Vino Vinoteca - 170 pesos -

Bodega Garage - Laureano Gomez -Malbec Reserva 2013 - 30 000 bottlesDon Laureano Gomez worked in Trapicheand Salentein for over two decades until hedecided to make his own garage wine. The

Malbec from this 2013 Reserva is sourcedin San Carlos, and is fermented withindigenous yeast and aged in French oak.The wine reveals aromas of red fruit andis fresh in the mouth, with a slightly sweetfinish. Sol y Vino Vinoteca - 170 pesos

WISHLIST



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For all the foreign Malbec fans out there,

coming to Mendoza is a little bit like going toa gigantic candy store, trying delicious sweetsand being allowed to bring only the memory ofit all back home.Whether you are the backpacking type or thefancy suitcase wheeler, you’ll be wonderingthe exact same thing - is there any way I cansqueeze this extra bottle into my bag and bringit back at a decent price?Foreign tourists make up 70% of winery visits

here, and the winery store is the only placewhere the winery can sell their product at thefull retail price.

So you can imagine their sales staff havethought over and over again of all the possibleways they can get you to buy more. These dayswineries are much more focused on sales thanthey were in the early days of wine tourismwhen to sell a bottle at the end of a tour was like

a pleasant after -thought. However no matterhow much they now push to buy, they keephitting a giant wall called shipping. A box ofsix to the US costs on average $200 US per box,not including the wine. Such high costs puts a

spike in the spokes of all but the highest rollers.

Here I have tried to decipher for you the complexworld of getting wines home so you may avoidthe bitter after taste of frustration.

The Wine CrockIf you want to bring back 1 or 2 bottles and areone of those lucky people who do not overpack

their luggage, the wine crock is the solution.

This bubble-wrap bottle holder should surviveeven the most brutish airport bag handler. Ifthe bottle does break, at least your clothes willbe saved and you can always try to drink theprecious liquid with the traditional mate strawyou’ve just bought.Wineries sell them to for 30 pesos and if handledcorrectly you can re-use them.

You can also take advantage of the fact thatArgentina is one of the very few countries whichallows you to bring your wrapped bottled as handluggage on a domestic flight.

The

ShippingPuzzleA dispatch fromEmilie Giraud on how to

dispatch your wine

1. The Carry-On Solution



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The 6 or 12-bottle Styrofoam boxIf you are a determined Malbec fanatic and areready to carry on as much weight as it takesto extend your wine collection, you might beinterested in buying styrofoam cases of 6 oreven 12.

Selling at about 120 pesos (6 bottles) and 240pesos (12 bottles), the box is basically a blockof styrofoam with hollowed out cavitiesfor bottles. Taped up well, it is practicallyimpregnable.You’ll have to check the boxes in and maybepay extra-luggage fee. Count that a styrofoambox of 6 bottles weighs on average 9kg and aStyrofoam box with 12 bottles 18kg. It costsaround 100 USD of extra-weight (Lan, andAmerican Airlines) or 150 USD for an extra-bag. Also all the airlines insist the box is shrinkwrapped before checking in.

Be careful though, many countries sufferrestrictions in terms of the amounts of bottlesyou can bring back with you , and those normsare changing all the time. You shouldn’t have

much problem in the USA and the UK, butif you live in Australia or Canada, you’ll beallowed only two bottles..

The Duty-Free Shop SolutionBe careful, not so many wines are availablein the duty-free shops, especially not fromthat little boutique winery you got a crush on.Keep as a last-minute emergency option forforgotten gifts.

Make sure they put your bottle in a sealedplastic bag, especially if you have connectingflights.

If you don’t wan’t to carry your wine withyou, some wineries, hotels and specializedcompanies offer to ship your bottles for you.Shipping is appealing but don’t get too excited.People’s jaws drop when they see the prices

and it’s certainly not an option for everybudget.

To get an idea on prices, to ship 6 bottles ofwine to the US costs between 190 and 225 USD,(duties paid) and to ship 12 bottles, between240 and 300 USD. To Brasil : between 250 and325 USD depending the region for 6 bottles,and 310 and 420 USD for 12 bottles all dutiespaid. To the UK and to Canada, around 105USD, for 6 bottles and 150 for 12 bottles, dutiesnot paid. To Australia 120 USD for 6 bottlesand 180 USD for 12, duties not paid.

The duties can be very high, especially inCanada and in Australia. In British Colombia,Ontario and Quebec, the taxes are literallyprohibitive. The easiest state to ship to inCanada is Alberta.

Many wineries and hotels work withintermediary shipping agents, like TAKSA,who offer to come and pick the wine at thewinery and take care of all the paper work.They move bigger volumes and as such, cannegotiate better prices with the differentcouriers.

Where there is a will, there is a wayShipping to the USA to a private client is

actually forbidden if you are not a wineimporter. Yet the majority of Mendoza winetourists are doing exactly that.What is going on?Some couriers reach some places, and someother couriers reach other places, dependingwhere they have brokers to receive thepackage and specialist agreements ironed outon a state by state basis.These importers let them use their licence and

clear the wine for a very nice cheque.Basically the price is calculated as TRANSPORT+ GAS + 90 DOLARES (importer’s licence +duties).

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Clients and wineries do complain about such exorbant prices. Just why is carting a box home soexpensive ? It is a pandora’s box of national and international regulations made more complex

by the fact that we are dealing with sinful alcohol that puts lawmakers and tax collectors in afrenzy. The reasons can be summed up by the following points.

Why so high?

The Drunken PostmanThe domestic postal service has a bad enoughreputation as it is without putting the whiff ofwine under their noses. They may celebratelocal wine in their postage stamps but try senda bottle internationally and you’ll get wrappedup in customs forms and bureaucratic lethargy.End result, you wine box will never be seenagain

Greenbacks OnlyThe four big multinational courier companies(UPS/TNT/FEDEX/UPS) price everything inAmerican dollars and it is the same everywherein the world. In other words, the cost has

nothing to do with the national cost of living ortransport, and you can’t take advantage of theblue dollar exchange rate. The air freight servicepromises you get your wine within a week ofdispatching but aviation fuel is expensive andthe sector is not very competitive so the couriercompanies margins are quite high.

The Right FrequencyThe frequency of flights is more important

than the distance. The prices are divided byzone. The zone correspond more or less to thedistance, but more than anything else to thefrequency. For example, toship to Denmark for instanceis more expensive than toGermany, because the flightconnections are way lessregular there.

The Law is an AssBelieve it or not shipping to Brazil, a fellowMERCOSUR member, costs nearly twice the pricethan shipping to Europe. Individual countries’laws on alcoholic beverages are a quagmire ofover reactionary puritanical zeal that seemsomewhat outdated in the 21st Century.Traditionally taxes on anything alcoholic arequite high and the controls very strict.In Australia, Canada and the Nordic EuropeanStates, the alcohol laws are somewhat drastic

for public health reasons. Canada, Norway andSweden have state controlled stores with verystrict rules. For example you cannot buy alcoholat certain times and the taxes are very high forthe exact same reason.In other countries like Brazil, the reasons areprotectionist and a policy of supporting thegrowth of the national winemaking industry.It also has a lot to do with bilateral economicrivalrly - you don’t let in my product, I don’t let

in yours.

Add to this the fact that many countries will only allowregistered importers to send wine home (notably the USAand Canada) and you have a hangover before you have

even drank the stuff.



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It’s easy to feel like Dorothy in the city of Mendoza, follow the ceramic tiled road and you canhoof it to most every downtown destination. But eventually your shoes cut into the back ofyour heal, you tire of weaving in and out of crowds like a salmon swimming upstream and youlong for a zippier way to get from A to B. Public transportation is rarely on the menu whentravelers adventure into foreign reaches of the world, but in Mendoza traveling like the localscan be an adventure all of its own.

Going PublicMadeline Blasberg does the rounds with

Mendoza’s public transport.

Option 1: BusesBuses, known as micros (meek-rose), areubiquitous throughout Mendoza, and are thepreferred method of travel for the local masses.Buses fares within downtown Mendoza areARS $4 and can be paid by purchasing a RedBus Card, available for purchase and refills atselect kiosks.Argentine bus drivers have achieved the

highest distinction in defensive driving, theyturn millimeters of distance into traffic lanes,they swerve through motorcyclists withgraceful dexterity, and careen to a halt at everystop, just in time for you to catch your stomachand step down onto solid ground.This does however make for a turbulent ride.You’ll be tempted to take the first availableseat, but it’s best to do some strategic planningbefore plopping down just anywhere. Have an

upcoming stop? Position yourself as close tothe rear exit as possible. The bus will fill withcommuters, their children and their parcel, allof which turn the aisle into an obstacle courseon wheels. So if your agility level is not up

to snuff, I’d recommend sitting near the back.Depending on the time of day, buses can fill withany number of commuters – from a few straystragglers to India-esque, shoulder-to-shoulderrush hour herds. A little jostling back and forthagainst your neighbor is unavoidable, just smile ina way that says, “please forgive my elbow jabbinginto your left ribs…I’m sure that hurts,” they’ll

understand.When you’ve reached your destination, signal thedriver to let you off at the next stop by hitting thebutton next to the back door exit.Travel Tip: Visit omnilineas.com.ar/mendoza/colectivos/ and select your start and stop points tofind your bus options.

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Large number in the top middle indicates thebus group.

Each bus group is identified both by this number and

by the color scheme painted across the bus

Words on the left and right side of this large number

indicate the primary service zones of the bus route

Number and name in the bottom left corner of the

front window indicates the specific route number ofthat bus, and the destination

Smaller number immediately next to the buses slidingfront doors are internal bus ID numbers

How to Read a Bus



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Option 4: MetrotramvíaThis light rail train is the newest addition tothe streets of Mendoza, and runs a straightshot, 12.5 km across Mendoza city and severalsurrounding metropolitan suburbs, including

Godoy Cruz, Maipu, Las Heras and Luján deCuyo.Because the light rail shares the streets withthe four-wheeled traffic, traveling can be slowgoing, frequently interrupted by stop lights andthe occasional driver who fearlessly swervesin front of this oncoming train. Fares are thestandard ARS $4.If you need to mix and match a couple buses,or a trolley and the train for example, your Red

Bus card allows you to use 2 forms of publictransportation within 90 minutes of your firstticket purchase, and charges only the first one.Travelers can mix and match routes and payonly one fare for two rides.

Option 2: TrolleysThe trolles are the sloth-like cousins of themicros, and run on electrical lines that crisscrossthe city. Unlike buses, trolleys silently andgently roll along their circuits – never in

hurry to get to where they’re going, coming tocomplete stops, and languidly continuing on.Given the slower pace of the trolleys, seniorcitizens are frequent passengers.Signal the driver that you want off by pullingthe wire that runs along the side windows.Fares for trolleys within downtown are ARS $4and are paid with the same card-coin till as themicros.Travel Tip: Trolley Parque crawls along a

rectangular route that encompasses the microdowntown area. Get off at Emilio Civit andBolgone Sur Mer to spend some time in SanMartin Park, or at 9 de Julio for some downtownshopping, or along Aristides for a wide selectionof restaurants and bars.

Option 3: TaxisBut if you’re not in the mood to be jostledaround on a public bus, taxis allow for a morecomfortable ride at a surprisingly economicalprice. A quick trip across downtown can cost

as little as U$D 5.00.Taxi drivers rarely speak English, so languageskills are necessary. That being said, travelerscan sometimes get away with showing thecabbie a written address. All cabs are equippedwith electric meters that tick away the minutesand mileage. Check to make sure the meterstarts when the cab rolls away, and round upto the nearest peso when you pay your fare.Taxi drivers (Taxistas) rarely carry wads of

change, so do your best to pay in small bills.Remises are private cars that serve as city taxisand can also be hired out for extended periodsof time. They are marked with a yellownumber on the passenger side door and aregenerally a cleaner, more secure option.



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DINING OUT

PatronaThis cosy Mendocino restaurant has acasual, rustic charm about it. A colourfulhub of activity on a quiet street, Patronaattracts a crowd full of locals every night

of the week who come for the honest,traditional Argentine food and friendlyand warm atmosphere. Classic disheslike the hearty empanadas and sizzlingasado are worthy and popular fare butthe real star here is Patrona’s warm,open sandwiches We recommend theartichoke hearts and goats cheese;roasted vegetables with white wine andhoney; or the more traditional pick ofrich glands cooked in lemon. A decentwine list and some satisfying dessertscomplete the gastronomy experiencebut the key to Patrona is the cosy way

that they really make you feel at home.Mi casa es Patrona casa! 9 de Julio 656.Tel: (261) 4291057. Mon to Sat: 12.30pm- 3.30pm and 8.30pm - close. Avg. mealcost: $150/(including starter, main dish,dessert+a glass of wine)

Grill QLocated in the elegant Park Hyatt, GrillQ serves up traditional regional cuisineat a five star level. Sit back in the chic

parilla style restaurant amongst thecowhides and local artwork, pick fromone of the many Mendocinean wines,make your order and watch the chefsat work in the open kitchen. They arefamous for their grilled meats andgigantic empanadas, and serve heartyArgentine classics such as ‘locro’ - astew which hails back to the earlyindependence days. Save room forthe stunning desserts. The Hyatt’sother restaurant, Bistro M, offers amore gourmet evening menu andthe most exuberant ‘lunch menu’ in

town. With a gorgeous buffet spreadof starters like squid and basil stew,crispy calamari with cool gazpacho andmezze style tapas, you’ll need to bringyour stretchy waistbands to fit in thehearty and flavourful main optionsand the sumptuous dessert buffet ontop. Put aside an hour or two for thistempting lunch or make your way herein the evening to try the Mediterraneaninspired dishes including deliciouspasta, fresh fish and some great cutsof meat. Chile 1124. (261) 441 1225.Avg. meal Grill Q $250 pesos. BistroM Executive Menu $280 with starterbuffet, main course, dessert buffet andglass of wine.

El MercaditoWith an attractive fairy lit patio andterrace outside, this is the perfect spotfor some lunch time sunshine or alfresco dining. Run by three friends,El Mercadito has a cool vibe andrelaxed music making it a favorite.Opened recently by three friends,El Mercadito is offering something alittle bit different to Mendoza. With acool vibe, relaxed music and attractive

waiting staff, this is quickly becominga favorite hot spot for a coffee, bite toeat or evening cocktails. Opening inthe morning for healthy breakfasts andantioxidant juices, El Mercadito staysopen throughout the siesta with its lightmenu of sandwiches, big salads andsome Argentine classic meals. Chowdown to big healthy salads like the‘Langoustine’ with huge juicy prawns,fresh avocado and green leaves or tuckinto one of their big toasted sandwicheslike smoked salmon and cream cheese,or jamon crudo and arugula served

with chunky chips and homemadeBBQ sauce. As the sun goes down makesure to try out one of their yummystrawberry mojitos! El Mercadito,Aristides Villanueva 521, (261) 4638847.Avg. meal price: $ 150. Chacras de Coria:Viamonte 4961, te: 4962267.

La MarchigianaAs the first Italian restaurant inMendoza, La Marchigiana has plentyof history and traditional recipes to

whet any nonna`s appetite. MariaTeresa Corradini de Barbera`s familyrestaurant started off with only sixhearty Italian dishes but has growninto a popular local fixture which isalways busy despite its curious lack ofambience. The pasta is the best thinghere, maintaining original recipesfrom over 60 years ago; we recommendthe huge stuffed ravioli. Check outthe Brad Pitt photo for celebritycredentials. La Marchigiana, PatriciasMendocinas 1550. (261) 4230751. Avg.meal price: $170

Anna BistroAnna Bistro has been an importantrestaurant on Mendoza’s food scenesince it opened 8 years ago, howeverthat doesn’t stop it from renovatingitself each year. This year Jerome andhis team have started smoking theirown salmon and cheese to add a bitmore flavour to some dishes and youcan try the rich salmon on deliciousbrioche and go the whole hog witha pot of delicious steaming, garlickyprawns. Along with a handful ofsalmon dishes there are a host ofdifferent foods on the menu includingclassic steak, rich lamb, creamy pastasand lots of lighter options including bigsalads, sharing platters and vegetariandishes. While lunch and dinner is stillits main game, the beautiful gardensand restaurant are open for breakfastfrom 8am offering unending treatsfrom their own French patisserie andthe late afternoon is perfect for sippingyour way through the extensivecocktail list or take your pick from thearm long wine list. Av. Juan B. Justo161 Tel: (261) 425 1818. Everyday 8am

till late. Avg. meal cost: $190 pesos.

Grill Q

Anna Bistro

MENDOZA CITY



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Josefina RestóThe trendy, cosmopolitan JosefinaRestó is an island of elegance onhectic Aristides Street. The building

is a playful mix of the urbane andthe natural. The warmth of vintagestyle drawings adorning the walls areilluminated through large, handsomestreet windows.Such an abundance of natural lightmakes for a peaceful, illuminated lunch.After work hours, you´re welcometo pop up for some gourmet tapasaccompanied with a rotating selectionof by-the-glass wine. At sunset, athoughtful combination of candle andindustrial light bulbs will put you inthe mood for a fine dinner. The food is

eclectic, seasonal, and very personal - afusion of Ana’s mum traditional recipesand of her own international cookingexperience. Don’t miss the deliciousravioles stuffed with smoked salmon,seasoned with butter and sage sauceand cheese made by the sommelierherself. www.josefinaresto.com.arAristides Villanueva 165, Mendoza5500, Argentina - Tel. 261 4233531

Terruño - Club TapizTucked away among the sprawlingMaipu vineyards lies Club TapizResort and its lovely restaurantTerruño. This handsome eateryboasts an elegant interior, excellentservice and a wine list that is sureto please even the most finicky ofwine snobs. Their chef compiles atantalising menu that includes topnotch lomo steaks, a rotating rangeof salads and a savory ginger/honeychicken dish that is second to none.If you like what you see and taste,

book a room in one of their sevenRenaissance-style villas. Don’t forgetto call ahead for dinner reservations!Ruta 60 s/n 5517 Maipú. AR$ 220.Tel: (261) 496 0131. tapiz.com. Lunch,everyday, 12pm - 3pm. Dinner, Sun- Thurs, 8pm-11pm, Fri & Sat until12am. Avg. meal cost: $385 pesos.

Finca AgostinoElegance, history and the perfectmarriage of food and wine is whatyou’ll experience by dining at the

restaurant of Finca Agostino winery.Ancient vines with stems as thickas tree trunks look in upon a lightfilled, stylish interior with enoughspace to dance a tango. The overallvibe is polished and handsome. Thefood is equally majestic - 5 courses ofwell thought, imaginative dishes thatare paired exquisitely with all thewineries wines - often explained anddescribed by the chef Sergio Guardia.The menu is seasonal with much ofthe ingredients freshly picked fromthe property’s organic vegetable

garden and orchard. Creamy pumpkinsoup was the starter when I dinedthere and the main course a choicebetween prime beef or Mendoza kidgoat. If you have time make sure totake a tour of the property whichincludes an art gallery and replicaplaza of Plaza España in Mendoza city.Cookery classes are available whereyou get to pick your own ingredientsand prepare and cook bread on anopen fire, empanadas, humitas andasado. Carril Barrancas 10590, Maipu.tel 2615249358. Avg. meal price $400pesos. www.fincaagostino.com

Los NegritosRight in the middle of Las Vegas (inPotrerillos, 80kms from Mendoza)this restaurant stems from a storyof a family who came to live in hereone of the first weekend housesconstructed in the area. They namedtheir home ‘los negritos’ a nickname oftheir two young children. Many yearslater, one of the ‘negritos’ (Enrique)decided to leave the bustle of the city,moved to the mountains and opened arestaurant with his wife , in Las Vegas.

The restaurant serves lunch anddinner every weekend and on publicholidays and the cuisine is flavourfuland typically Argentine with stews(such as Tomaticán and mondongo)milanesas, humita and homemadepasta - many of the recipes used areold family recipes. The restauranthas been recognized as part of the‘gastronomical route’ and is noted forits quality of cooking, architecture andlandscape.Avg: $135. Los Olmos ST,Las Vegas, Potrerillos. (261)[email protected]. Fri to

Sun and holidays. From 12pm to 4 pm /GPS: S 33013370 - W 69272293

La Marchigiana

Los Negritos

OUTSIDE CITY CENTER

Club Tapiz

Josefna Restó



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Terrazas de los AndesThe fine wine sister of ChandonArgentina is a beautifully restoredbodega with well-appointed tastingroom. Fav. Wine: Cheval de los Andes.(0261) 488 0704/5. Thames andCochabamba, Perdriel, Luján de Cuyo.www.terrazasdelosandes.com

Clos de ChacrasCharming boutique operation withnice history. A five minute walk fromChacras plaza. Fav. Wine: Gran Estirpe.(0261) 496 1285/155 792706. MonteLibano s/n, Luján de Cuyo. www.closdechacras.com.ar

Luigi BoscaThe Arizu dynasty are the royalfamily of Argentine wine and theirseat of operations is a handsome andelegant 110-year old winery. Classicalarchitecture, ancient atmosphericcellars and rich wines such as the FincaLas Nobles range make for a fascinatingvisit. (0261) 498 1974. San Martin 2044,Mayor Drummond, Luján de Cuyo.www.luigibosca.com.ar

RenacerThis Chilean-owned winery creates

the label Punto Final. Small, modernoperation with tour that includes ahands-on lesson in blending. Brandsen1863, Lujan de Cuyo. 261-524-4416 or261-524-4417. www.bodegarenacer.com.ar

KaikenThis rustic 80 year-old winery housesa new venture by the prestigiousChilean winery Montes. Big andpowerful wines, destined for fame.TEL (0261) 4761111-14 INT 113 / Movile(0261-153 530 789) /Movile (0261-155509 453) Roque Saenz Peña 5516, LasCompuertas, Luján de Cuyo. Open fromMon to Sat from 8 AM to 6:30 PM/SUNand holidays from 9 AM to 1 PM. www.kaikenwin es.com

Catena ZapataShowcase winery designed like a Mayantemple overlooking vineyards and theAndes Mountains. Rich, complex wines.(0261) 413 1100. Cobos s/n, Luján deCuyo. www.catenawines.com

Alta VistaMasterful mix of modern andtraditional. Tasting includesdistinctive Torrontes or singlevineyard Malbecs. (0261) 496 4684.Álzaga 3972, Chacras de Coria, Lujande Cuyo. www.altavistawines.com

THE WINERY GUIDE

Nieto SenetinerLocated in a beautiful old winery inChacras, Senetiner was founded in 1888and makes a great range of wines andsparkling wines and offers horsebackriding in the vineyards and asado stylelunches. (261) 496 9099, Guardia ViejaS/N, Vistalba, Lujan de Cuyo. www.nietosenetiner.com.ar

MelipalGreat Malbec and gourmet lunchesmake Melipal one of the mostexclusive wineries to visit. (0261)4790202. R.N.7, 1056km, Agrelo, Lujánde Cuyo. www.bodegamelipal.com.ar

MendelAn old style winery ran by one ofArgentina’s most famous winemakerdynasties the De La Motta family.(0261) 524 1621. Terrada 1863, MayorDrummond, Lujan de Cuyo. www.mendel.com.ar

Viña CobosAmerican winemaker Paul Hobbswas one of the first to recognisethe possibilities of Malbec and hisBramare label is possibly one of thebest examples of this varietal. (0261)

479 0130. R.N. 7, Lujan de Cuyo.www.vinacobos.com

TapizGreat wine lodge Club Tapiz, high-endrestaurant Terruño and an instructivewine tour including barrel andbottle tasting. (0261) 490 0202. RutaProvincial 15, Km 32. Agrelo, Luján deCuyo. www.tapiz.com

Belasco de BaquedanoGleaming modern facility with

fascinating aroma room andrestaurant with Andean view. (0261)524 7864. Cobos 8260, Lujan de Cuyo.www.belascomalbec.com

PiattelliA lovely family owned winerydone in a Tuscan style. Enjoy lunchon a deck beside a pond.Fav. Wine:Oaked Torrontes. (0261) 479 0123.Cobos 13710, Lujan de Cuyo. www.piattellivineyards.com

Cruzat

A boutique traditional sparkling wineproducer with gorgeous bubbles thatcan be enjoyed from their terraceoverlooking vines. (261) 5242290,Costa Flores, s/n, Perdriel, www.bodegacruzat.com

Dante RobinoFounded in 1920, an atmospheric old-style winery with a modernist, light-filled tasting room with excellent

view of mountains and vines.(0261) 488 7229 Ext. #2. CallejónMaldonado 240, Perdriel. www.bodegadanterobino.com

SeptimaA beautifully designed winery withclear views of the mountains and alarge terrace used for sunset wineevents after 6.30pm on Thursdays.Owned by the Spanish experts insparkling wine, Codorniu, they makefab sparkling wine under label Maria.

(261) 498 9550, Ruta 7, 6.5km, Lujan deCuyo. www.bodegaseptima.com

AlpamantaExemplary biodynamic vineyard setin the rustic splendor of Ugarteche.Ideal for families and nature lovers.Calle Cobos s/n. tel 0261 153468398.www.alpamanta.com

Pulenta EstateCool minimalist design and richcomplex wines make this a winerywith finesse and style. Fav. Wine:

Cabernet Franc. (0261) 155 076426.Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Lujan de Cuyo.www.pulentaestate.com

NortonOld-style cellars contrast with a high-tech production line. Tank and barreltastings,and jug fillings on Thursdaysare popular with the locals. (0261) 4909700. R.P.15, Km 23.5. Perdriel.Luján deCuyo. www.norton.com.ar

Benegas LynchRich history and richer wines. Lovelyold bodega with lots of character. Fav.Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261) 4960794. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra. www.bodegabenegas.com

Navarro CorreasThe closest winery to Mendoza city,easily accessible Navarro Correas is amodern winery with great sparklingwines and fun tasting options. (0261)4597916. San Francisco del Monte 1555,Godoy Cruz. www.ncorreas.com

CaelumModern, medium size winery on themain road to Chile just before themountains and has a nice family feelto it. Fav. Wine: Fiano (261)156992890.R.N.7 km 1060, Agrelo. www.bodegacaelum.com.ar

LUJAN DE CUYO



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Restaurant

Lodging

Driving time from Mendoza City

Art Gallery

LOCATIONS REFERENCESREFERENCES

Luján de Cuyo

Maipú

Mendoza City

San Martín

Valle de Uco

Ruca MalenExcellent food, great guiding and

first-class wines. The pairings overlunch make for an unforgettableculinary experience. (0261) 5537164- 2614540974. R.N.7, Km 1059,Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.bodegarucamalen.com

DeceroAttractive, modern facility withspectacular views of the mountainsfrom the cozy tasting room. (0261) 5244748. Bajo las Cumbres 9003, Agrelo,Luján de Cuyo. www.decero.com

La Madrid/DuriguttiTucked away in a restored wineryin Las Compuertas, you can tastesingle vineyard and terroir blendwines from both of these ambitiousprojects from under one roof. Walk-ins welcome.Roque Sáenz Peña 8450, LasCompuertas, Luján de Cuyo. (261) 5629134/35.www.durigutti.com www.lamadridwines.com

VistalbaTasting room where one entire wallis a subterranean cross section of theactual vineyard clay, roots and rocks.Fab restaurant. (0261) 498 9400. RoqueSaenz Peña 3135, Vistalba. www.carlospulentawines.com

Achaval Ferrer Modern boutique close to Mendoza

riverbed. Big concentrated wines.(0261) 488 1131. Cobos 2601, Perdriel,Lujan de Cuyo. www.achaval-ferrer.com

DoliumA completely underground winerywith innovative design and top notchMalbecs. (0261) 490 0190. R.P.15, Km30 s/n, Agrelo. www.dolium.com

TrapicheArgentina’s biggest winery is a mix ofold and new, traditional and industrial,and has the old train tracks leadingup to it. (0261) 520 7666. Mitre s/n.Coquimbito, Maipú. www.trapiche.com.ar

El EnemigoOne of Argentina’s most talentedwinemakers Alejandro Vigilopens the door to this colorful andunconventional boutique operation.Boisterous, gourmet lunches offered.

Videla Aranda 7008, Maipu. Tel.261697 4213

Finca AgostinoElegant and picturesque winery withancient vines and walled orchard.Offer superb lunches and cookeryclasses.Carril Barrancas 10590, Maipu. Tel.2615249358. www.fincaagostino.com

MAIPÚ

ChandonThe original foreign investor, French-

owned Chandon has been makinggreat sparkling wines in Mendozasince the 1960s. (0261) 490 9968. R.P.15,Km 29, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.bodegaschandon.com.ar

Dominio del PlataArgentina´s most famous femalewinemaker Susana Balbo is creatingsome rich and complex wines inthe heart of Agrelo. (0261) 498 9200.Cochabamba 7801 Agrelo, Luján deCuyo. www.dominiodelplata.com.ar

LagardeOwner of the oldest white wine inSouth America. Try the hand-craftedsparkling wine made from 100 yearold vines. (0261) 498 0011 Ext. 27.San Martin 1745, Mayor Drummond.Luján de Cuyo. www.lagarde.com.ar

CasarenaA beautiful mix of old and new, thiswinery mixes tradition and modernityin an old style winery with a supermodern restaurant with splendid viewsof the vineyarsd and mountains.Brandsen 505, Perdriel. www.casarena.com.Tel 2616967848.

Ojo de VinoA modern winery in Agrelo, notablenot just for exceptional wines suchas the Malo Blend, but also the factits owner is the Godftaher of Techno,Swiss musician Dieter Meier. Thewinery restaurant Ojo de Agua, hasa delighful setting next to a vineyardlake.

Bajo Las Cumbres S/N. Agrelo. Tel2615731688. [email protected]

Carmelo PattiMendoza’s most famous garagista.Carmelo Patti himself is often thereto show you around (in Spanish). Fav.Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon from thebarrel. (0261) 498 1379. San Martin2614, Luján de Cuyo.

Familia CassoneA charming, family owned winery

in a beautiful setting. Try the jasminetinted rosé amidst the pastoralsplendour of the owner’s expansivegarden. Anchorena y Terrada. (261)424 6301.www.familiacassone.com.ar



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THE WINERY GUIDE

FlichmanSteeped in history and tradition.Charming, pink-hued, colonial-stylebodega, set in the leafy vineyardsof southern Maipu. (0261) 497 2039.Munives 800, Barrancas, Maipú. www.flichman.com

Familia Di TommassoOfficially the second oldest winery inMendoza and still run by Argentinehands. Their charming and rusticrestaurant looks onto the vineyard,just two steps away. (0261) 524 1829.

Urquiza 8136, Russell, Maipú. www.familiaditommaso.com

Familia ZuccardiA professional, far-sighted operation.Attractive restaurant amidst thevines, famous for its asado-stylelunches and generous wine pourings.(0261) 441 0000. R.P. 33, Km 7.5,Maipú. www.familiazuccardi.com

Cepas ElegidasMaking real ‘vinos de autor’, US bornBrennan Firth makes his limited

production wines in a small wineryin Maipu. Exclusive and ultra highend wines, a visit and tasting is withthe winemaker himself. To visit CepasElegidas, call Brennan on (0261) 467 1015.

AMP CavaPremium wines made from differentterroirs but all by renowned winemakerKarim Mussi Saffie. Technical tastingsand a close proximity to the citymake it a recommended visit. GómezAdriano 3602. Coquimbito. Maipú - (261)

4813201/4668048Rutini / La RuralWell-stocked museum withinvaluable antiques like cowhidewine presses and buckets. Giant oak

tanks stand in large, cavernous halls.(0261) 497 2013 Ext.125. Montecaseros2625, Coquimbito, Maipú. www.bodegalarural.com.ar

Cecchin

A family winery using organic andbiodynamic principles where youcan see the entire process from thebeautiful green vineyards to the minimalintervention winery. (261) 497 6707, MASaez 626, Maipu, www.bodegacecchin.com.ar

CarinaeSmall, charming, French-owned wineryoffering personal tours and well-honedwines. Surrounded by vineyards and olivetrees. (0261) 499 0470. Videla Aranda 2899,Cruz de Piedra, Maipú .www.carinaevinos.com

Tempus AlbaA fine modern winery set in the rurallanes of southern Maipu. The rooftopterrace overlooks the vineyard. (0261) 4813501. Perito Moreno 572, Maipú. www.tempusalba.com

LopezPopular, old-style winery with twomuseums on the wine. Restaurant offersgourmet cuisine with a panoramic view.

(0261) 497 6554. Ozamis 375, Gral Gutiérrez,Maipú. www.bodegaslopez.com.ar.Facebook/Bodegas Lopez Oficial

AndelunaThe old-world style tasting room looksupon dramatic views of vineyardsagainst mountains. (02622) 423 226Ext 113.R.P. 89, Km 11, Gualtallary,Tupungato. www. andeluna.com

AtamisqueThis Uco winery has some great whitewines, a unique stony roof and theybreed their own trout which is servedin the charming restaurant.(0261)156 855184. R.P. 86 (Km 30), San Jose,Tupungato. www.atamisque.com

La AzulSimple, small production winery with notso simple Malbecs and a small traditionalrestaurant. (02622) 423 593.R.P 89 s/n.Agua Amarga, Tupungato. www.bodegalaazul.com

Finca La CeliaOne of the valley’s oldest wineries. Theyconduct excellent tours and tastings. (02622)451 010. Av. de Circunvalacion s/n, EugenioBustos, San Carlos. www.fincalacelia.com.ar

SalenteinDesigned like a temple to wine, thisultra-concept winery includes a modernart gallery, lodge, and chapel set high inthe Andean valley. (02622) 429 500.R.P89 s/n, Tunuyan. www.killkasalentein.

com

O. FournierMost architecturally innovative winerywith rich, concentrated wines. Excellentlunches in the modernist visitor center.(02622) 451 088. Los Indios s/n, LaConsulta, San Carlos. www.ofournier.com

Gimenez RiiliA brand new family run affair, part ofthe exciting Vines of Mendoza project.

This is a modern winery in a stunningsetting. 0261-156317105/ 0261-153470392 - Ruta 94 (s/n), Tunuyán.www.gimenezriili.com

Bodega MasiFascinating Italian job in the heart ofTupungato with commanding viewsand commanding wines, especiiallythe Amarone inspired varietals andunusual blends. Tel. (0261) 156539573.www.masitupungato.com

Domaine Bousquet

Another French transplant to theAndean foothills of Valle de Uco,this sizeable operation produceshigh altitude Chardonnay, Merlotand Malbec and now has a popularrestaurant serving excellent tastingmenu lunches. Ruta 89. Tupungato.www.domainebousquet.com Tel2615274048

The Vines of MendozaBest described as a cooperative of winelovers around the World who haveall bought a vineyard plot each in UcoValley and are making their own winein a central winery with experts suchas Santiago Achaval overseeing. Add tothis a fabulous 5-star hotel and FrancisMallman restaurant and Uco Valley willnever be the same again.Ruta 94, Tunuyan. Tel 261 461 3900

DiamandesModern, imposing winery withmagnificent wines, part of prestigiousFrench group Clos de los Siete. Calle SilvaS/N. Vistaflores. Tel. 0261 4760695.

Trivento Located in the bucolic splendour ofsouthern Maipu, Trivento is ownedby the Chilean Concha y Toro. Thismodern winery has a beautifuldeck set amidst the vineyards andoffers bicycle excursions within theproperty. Ruta 60 y Canal Pescara,5517 Maipú, Mendoza. Tel: 0261 413-7156. www.trivento.com

Don Manuel VillafaneModern winery in the wide openvineyards of southern Maipu.Intense, complex wines. Artexhibition all year long.Ruta 60 s/n, Rodeo del Medio. Maipu.Tel. 2615083067. www.dmvwines.com

VALLE DE UCO

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MATIAS DOWN TOWNVictorian style decor and multiple ales to choose from isenough to soothe the nostalgia of any barfly foreigners.Downtown Matias is part of a successful beer chain startingin Buenos Aires in 1973 and now with bars as far as San

Martin de los Andes in Patagonia. Mendoza’s version is rightin the heart of beer street and ideal for a sidewalk stop-off orsome serious high stool imbibing inside. Aristides 198.

ANTARES BARAristides street would not be very complete without its ownmicro-brewery bar. Antares is the real deal and a pioneerin this respect with bars located across the country sincebefore it became trendy to brew your own grog. Its longbar displays tempting casks of great quality beers such asScottish ale and Irish stout. This expansive bar packs themin at night and serves decent pub grub too. Antares Bar.

Aristides 153.

BLACK SHEEPJust off the Alameda strip, the Black Sheep is an American-style sports bar with big screen TVs and decent bar foodlike nachos, homemade burgers and hot and spicy chickenwings. While especially popular during sports matches, TheBlack Sheep is one of the few bars to stay open everydayfrom 12 till 4am so you can grab a pint whenever you like!Maipu 131, Mendoza (261) 561 4283.

BELIEVE IRISH PUBOne of the few bars in Mendoza with a bar counter andhigh stools to prop yourself up on. Kelly, the English part-owner/pub-mascot is almost always there to share a chatand a smile with the crowd; which is most likely a factorin its notable popularity among expats and travelers. Onthe menu is a great collection of draught beers, bottledbeers (try the Warsteiner) and surprisingly decent pubgrub. TV screens hang in every corner airing hit music-video montages or football games. Monday night isInternational night and for their packed events DJ’s rockthe house. Colon and España 241. Tel. 261-429-5567. www.believeirishpub.com.ar

BARSINSIDE MENDOZA CITYThe list below has some great bars but if you’re looking to browse, head to Aristides VillanuevaAvenue, the nightlife strip of Mendoza. It’s a continuation of Ave. Colon and is simply referredto as Aristides by the locals. Pubs, bars, restaurants and shops cram together from Belgrano toSan Martin Park to provide you with ample bar options. Get your shut-eye before a night outbecause the clubs don’t even get started until 2am, and call a taxi because they are all locatedout of the city in Chacras or El Challao.



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USEFUL INFORMATIONAIRPORT Tel: 5206000 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo. SHIPPING WINE Ordinary post will not ship wine and a courier can cost atleast U$ 30 a bottle. The most economical way is send it with your checked luggage in a special styrofoam wine box, available at mostwine stores or at Trout & Wine, Espejo 266. CRIME Be alert. Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and at restaurants.Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal and internet cafes. BIKE TOURS IN MAIPU Themost economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (171, 172 or 173) from Catamarca and Rioja to Urquiza street (see below)where you’ll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount

as a puncture can cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu is urban and not pretty. RECOMMENDED WINERIES Rutini, Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso, Carinae and certainly Trapiche. When returning have a late lunch at the excellent Casa de Campo.NIGHTCLUBS In most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink which can get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It iswise to buy several drink tickets at once for an easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually ill equiped so bring your owntoilet paper. Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home. Clubs rarely get goingbefore 2am. MENDOZA EXPATS CLUB An organization which enables Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org.HAIR DRESSER English speaking and eccentric hairdresser Haisley will do your hairdo right. Paso de los Andes 997 (esq. Julio Roca),tel (261) 641 6047. CHANGING DOLLARS - “Cambio, cambio” shout the arbolitos (money changers) outside Galeria Tonsa (San Martin1173), the place to go if you want the best street rate. Larger denomination notes are preferred. To make sure you are not getting rippedoff check the current rate of the “dolár informal” on www.ambito.com. The Mendoza rate is generally 30 centavos less.



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