wine enthusiast

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2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2013

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SEPTEMBER CONTENTS

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COVER PHOTO: TODD HUFFMAN

58

FEATURES

38 ZIN’S HOTTEST SPOTS

The low-down on the top zip codes

for California’s iconic grape.

BY VIRGINIE BOONE

AND STEVE HEIMOFF

46 WOMEN OF THE STILL

Meet the spirited pioneers behind

some of the world’s favorite hooch.

BY KARA NEWMAN

52 WILD WESTERN AUSTRALIA

Pours from out west will change the

way you think about Australian wine.

BY JOE CZERWINSKI

58 OREGON’S OTHER PINOTS

Blanc and Gris give Pinot a new hue.

BY PAUL GREGUTT

62 KOSHER GOES GOURMET

Forget Manischewitz: Kosher wine—

and food—gets an upgrade.

BY JANET FORMAN

DEPARTMENTS

ENTH DEGREE13 The Rind Stuff: Fromage fanatics steal a

page from the sommelier playbook

14 Our Crush This Month: Feria de Jerez

16 Drink This Now: Austria’s Overlooked Reds

18 LOTP: How to be the perfect houseguest

20 Tips on using spice to stay cool

22 Recipe of the Month: Roasted Eggplant

and Tomato Soup

24 Fare Play: Hanging in Hawaii with

Chef Ed Kenney of Town

26 Boston: Your cheat sheet to eating

and drinking in Beantown

PROOF POSITIVE29 Autumn’s Up: Drink in fall with this

apple-laced cocktail

30 Q & A: George Clooney

32 The New Mile-High Clubs: What to

drink when wheels are up

LAST DROP104 Spill The Wine: Partaking in Spain’s

mess-prone drinking tradition

3018

COLUMNS

6 AMERICA’S BIG RED IS BACK

BY ADAM STRUM

34 DO AUSSIE WINES AGE WELL?

That Yellow Tail isn’t meant to last forever,

but these other labels go the distance.

BY JOE CZERWINSKI

BUYING GUIDE

70 WASHINGTON

84 CALIFORNIA

88 CHILE

90 AUSTRALIA

93 ISRAEL

95 AUSTRIA

97 GERMANY

98 PIEDMONT

100 SOUTHWEST FRANCE

101 SPIRITS

102 BEER

29

WineMag.com | 3

26

IMPORTED BY: Zonin U.S.A. Inc. Charlottesville, VA - www.zoninusa.com

PUBLISHER & EDITOR Adam M. Strum

VICE PRESIDENT OF PUBLISHING WINE ENTHUSIAST MEDIA Jay Spaleta

VOLUME 26, NUMBER 9

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | SEPTEMBER 2013

Wine Enthusiast (ISSN 1078.3318) is published monthly with one special issue, a total of 13 times per year. Subscriptions are $34.95 (International: Canada $59.95; Foreign $89.95). ©2013 Wine News, Inc. 333 North Bedford Road, Mount Kisco, NY 10549. Periodical postage paid at Mount Kisco, NY and addi-tional mailing offi ces. Manufactured and printed in the USA. Reprints: You must obtain permission to reproduce any material. Postmaster: Please send address

changes to Wine Enthusiast, P.O. Box 420234, Palm Coast, FL 32142.0234.

EDITORIAL

EXECUTIVE EDITOR OF DIGITAL AND PRINT Susan KostrzewaMANAGING EDITOR OF DIGITAL AND PRINT Joe Czerwinski

SENIOR EDITOR OF DIGITAL AND PRINT Mike DawsonWEB EDITOR/PRODUCER Marina VatajASSISTANT EDITOR Joseph HernandezCALIFORNIA EDITOR Steve Heimoff

EUROPEAN EDITOR Roger VossITALIAN EDITOR Kerin O’Keefe

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Michael Schachner, Paul Gregutt, Virginie Boone, Sean SullivanCONTRIBUTING EDITOR, FOOD Alexis Korman

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS, LIFESTYLE & ENTERTAINING Mike DeSimone and Jeff JenssenSPIRITS EDITOR Kara Newman

CREATIVE

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco TurelliART DIRECTOR Julia Lea

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY Megan BaggottDIRECTOR OF PRINT PRODUCTION Barbara Gianisis

TASTING

TASTING DIRECTOR Lauren BuzzeoASSISTANT TASTING DIRECTOR Anna Lee C. Iijima

TASTING COORDINATOR Molly SowersCONTRIBUTING ASSISTANT TASTING COORDINATOR Alexander Peartree

EDITORIAL OFFICES

333 North Bedford Road, Mt. Kisco, NY 10549TEL: 914.345.9463 FAX: 914.218.9186 [email protected]

CALIFORNIA: Steve Heimoff [email protected] Boone [email protected]

EUROPE: Roger Voss TEL/FAX: +33 562 09 50 76 [email protected]

ITALY: Kerin O’Keefe TEL: +41 91 930.0080 [email protected]

SOUTH AMERICA & SPAIN: Michael Schachner [email protected]

PACIFIC NORTHWEST: Paul Gregutt [email protected] Sullivan [email protected]

ADVERTISING & MARKETING

VP PUBLISHING: Jay Spaleta 333 North Bedford Road, Mt. Kisco, NY TEL: 914.345.9463 ext. 4611 FAX: 866.887.0943 [email protected]

SOUTHEAST U.S.: Denise Valenza TEL: 800.315.4397 [email protected] U.S.: Allison Langhoff TEL: 800.319.6920 [email protected]

ACCOUNT MANAGER Jennifer Gandolfi [email protected] MARKETING SALES MANAGER Derek Scolpino [email protected]

ADVERTISING SERVICES COORDINATOR Jen Cortellini [email protected] OF COMMUNICATIONS Jacqueline Strum [email protected]

ART DIRECTOR OF EVENTS Eileen Curran [email protected]

CIRCULATION

PROCIRC: 3191 Coral Way, Suite 510, Miami, FLCIRCULATION DIRECTOR Jim Motrinec [email protected]

CIRCULATION ASSISTANT Susi Chapman [email protected]: To carry Wine Enthusiast Magazine, call 800.381.1288 ext. 6048

SUBSCRIPTIONS

NEW SUBSCRIPTIONS/QUESTIONS ABOUT YOUR SUBSCRIPTION 800.829.5901 (International: 386.447.2397) [email protected]

BACK ISSUES AND ADDITIONAL COPIES Jen Cortellini [email protected] Claudia Stachowiak [email protected]

WINE ENTHUSIAST COMPANIES

CHAIRMAN Adam M. StrumCHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Sybil Strum

PRESIDENT Hank RosenCHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER Heidi Moore

VICE PRESIDENT MARKETING Glenn EdelmanDIRECTOR OF MARKETING Erika Strum

For advertising opportunities, please contact your Wine Enthusiast Representative

Allison Langhoff

415.861.4713

[email protected]

Denise Valenza

813.571.1122

[email protected]

Jennifer Gandolfi

914.345.9463 x4704

[email protected]

EDITOR’S LETTER

COMING NEXT MONTH


The Art of PieIt’s impossible to

tire of granny’s ap-

ple pie, but that

doesn’t mean these

modern examples

aren’t works of art.

Chile for Wine-and-Food LoversThe ultimate guide to

visiting Chile: where

to stay, where to eat

and—most important-

ly—where to drink.

Washington’s First AVAIt may not be the state’s

trendiest address, but

the Cabernets coming

out of Yakima Valley

continue to turn heads.

New Faces of Paso RoblesThese brash arrivals are

just a few of the wine-

makers revitalizing

California’s fastest-

growing wine region.

AMERICAÕS BIG RED IS BACK

Zinfandel, youíve been missed. Now get back on our table.

Zin is in once again. For some time, the go-to California red that

enjoyed pride of place on most clued-in Ameri-can tables—from backyard barbeques to elegant Sunday feasts—seemed to slide into the shadows, overcome by the wave of friendly Malbecs, flashy Cabernets and trendy Pinots.

While those reds are still on our hit list, Zinfan-del, with its exuberant, spicy and stylish character, has made a comeback, with bet-ter quality, diversity and val-ue than ever. As our Cali-fornia-based editors Steve Heimoff and Virginie Boone report on page 38, this Old World variety-made-new thrives all over the state, from regions as diverse as Mendocino and Sonoma to Lodi and the Sierra Foot-hills.

Oregon is home to oth-er stealth stars of the season, and it’s not Pinot…Noir, that is. Pinot Gris, with its lush, expansive fruit, and Pinot Blanc, a delightful, refreshing white with considerable food-pairing prowess, are the focus of Pacific Northwest Editor Paul Gre-gutt’s piece on page 58. Both are joining their fa-

mous red counterpart as some of the world’s best sips from the West Coast.

Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski heads west—far west—to dig into the rustic environs and fine wines of Western Australia’s wine regions (page 52). From the distinctive Cabernets and red blends of Margaret River to Frankland River’s

poised Rieslings and beyond, the vint-ners in this hard-to-reach corner of Oz are turning out wines that are worth the journey.

The stereotype of spirits distilling as a rough-and-tumble men’s club was there for a reason, until now. On page 46, Spirits Editor Kara Newman re-veals the new faces of the still, profil-ing four industrious women worldwide who are making their mark in the in-dustry, and impacting what you put in your glass.

Also in this issue: Janet Forman delves into the new tastes of kosher wine and cuisine (page 62); George Clooney drops in to talk Tequila (page

30) and Anne Krebiehl tells you why Austria’s Burgenland is a must-know discovery for fans of sophisticated reds (page 16).

Cheers!

Zinfandel, with its exuberant, spicy and stylish character, has made a comeback, with better quality, diversity and value than ever.

ADAM STRUM,

CHAIRMAN AND EDITOR

8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | AUGUST 2013

WHAT’S ONLINE NOW

WINEMAG.COM

SIP & SLEEP

Today’s wine lovers want more than a well-stocked minibar when they travel, and high-end hotels—like the Surrey Hotel in New York City (pictured)—are taking the hint. Whether they offer lobby wine bars or 24/7 wine service, these fi ve hot hotels offer sipping designed for a wine lover. Visit winemag.com/sipandstay.

STRANGE DRINK SPOTS

From scoring a glass of wine in places of historical intrigue (like a Swiss storage vault that housed gold during World War II) to toasting friends in an underwater bar in the Maldives (no, seriously), you’ll want to add these unusual yet supercool places to your wine-drinking bucket list. Visit winemag.com/strangesips.

CHILE EXPEDITION:

MONTES

WE’s Contributing Editor for South America, Michael Schachner, set out on a video journey to discover all that Chile has to offer. In episode fi ve of the series, he visits Montes winery to chat with founder Aurelio Montes about the inspiration behind the stunning Feng Shui-infl uenced architecture, plus top food pairings. Visit winemag.com/montes.

Castel del Monte: A 13th-century Puglian castle located in southeast Italy.

©2013 Imported from Italy by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates Ltd., Woodinville, WA


1/3 PAGE VERTICAL

MOST TWEETED@WINEENTHUSIAST

WINE ENTHUSIAST MAGAZINEIn our feature “California’s Zinfandel Hot Spots,” on page 38, our editors share their

favorite growing regions for the Golden State’s most iconic grape—but we wondered, what are our Facebook friends’ favorite regions for Zin?

Here’s what they posted.

YOUTELLUS

“Has to be Dry Creek. Love the

Wilson Family Wineries!”

— Stephen McCulloch

“Dry Creek and Amador County. Turley just

opened a tasting room in Amador County.

Need to get up there”

— Claude Munday

“Martinelli ‘Jackson Hill’ [sic] Russian River

Valley of course! If you can fi nd any that is.”

— Scott J. Barbieri

“La Diferencia Richland,

Washington, has the best tacos

ever. Enjoy them with Barrel-Maker

Red from #Cooperwinery.”

— @sarahdaktyl

WETELLYOU

[Sean Sullivan]PACIFIC NORTHWEST REVIEWER

“I’ve been enjoying Adelsheim’s Auxerrois, a cross between Pinot

Noir and Gouais Blanc, and one of the few

made in the U.S. It’s a delicious, fresh summer white.”

[Joseph Hernandez]ASSISTANT EDITOR

“I’m obsessed with Montinore Estate’s

Müller-Thurgau from the Willamette Valley.

Biodynamic, fl oral and richly fruited, it’s

proof that Oregon juice shouldn’t be underestimated.”

[Susan Kostrzewa]EXECUTIVE EDITOR

“I am enjoying the Ribolla coming out of Napa right now. It’s versatile, distinctive and represents the

new wave of innovative thinking happening

in the valley.”

In connection with our recent

trend piece “The Taco Goes

Gourmet,” we asked our Twitter

followers, “What was the best

#taco you’ve ever had?”

Which out-of-the-box variety from the West Coast have you tried and loved?

“South Beach Bar & Grill in San

Diego taught me the art of the fi sh

taco. ‘SD Fish Taco Dinner’ at my

house now is a fave.”

— @RiccaFabulous

“Sparky’s Landing in Marathon, FL,

makes the most amazing fi sh tacos

you will ever eat.”

— @katberka

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ìTOOLS NEVER GO OUT OF FASHION.î

800.356.8466

WINEENTHUSIAST.COM

PHILIPPE GUIGAL - 3RD GENERATION

PRESENTING HIS FAVORITE TOOL, THE SYRAH GLASS

SERGIO ZINGARELLI

It takes vision.

It takes quality.

It takes determination.

But most of all, it takes you to Italy.

Hand Crafted Wines From Five Distinct Estates

CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI DEL REGOLAMENTO CE N. 1234/07A CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING TO EC REGULATIONS N. 1234/07 PalmBay.com/Rocca

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90 POINTS2008 Chianti Classico Riserva

Wine Enthusiast, October 2012

WineMag.com | 13

THEENTHDEGREE

The cheese industry is stealing a page from the

wine world with its new elite certification program.

Are you ready for the rise of the, um, fromm?

THE RIND STUFF

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WineMeMag.com | 13

Sommelier. Cicerone. And now,

Certifi ed Big Cheese?

Emulating the formal sommelier exam

programs, the American Cheese Society

is now offering an offi cial test for cheese

pros. The exam itself covers 11 different

areas—–from the art of affi nage (ripening)

to complex federal regulations to the

microbiology of curds.

While the primary goal of the program

is to raise the bar among purveyors, Jane

Bauer, outreach and education manager

at the ACS, says she hopes certifi ed cheese

workers will one day be as common as

sommeliers in restaurants, helping folks

make informed decisions on which queso

pairs best with their Albariño.

“My ultimate goal is to get a cheese

service category in the James

Beard Awards,” says Bauer, who helped

develop the exam.

Sadly, a mere love of the stuff—or

knowing, say, the difference between a Brie

de Meaux and a Brie de Melun—doesn’t

qualify you. To even register for the three-

hour exam you need at least 4,000 hours of

experience as a cheese professional.

If only there were a certifi cation for

eating cheese plates in wine bars.

—Jeanette Hurt

Plan Your Trip Now! Most Jerez

hotels sell out by October.


THEENTHDEGREE OURCRUSHTHISMONTH

Our postcard from Spain’s

most colorful festival—

and why you need to

experience it soon.

Men sit tall on horseback wearing formal fi nery, the brims of their low-rise cowboy hats slicing the Spanish sun. Women in fi ery handsewn gowns giggle behind lace fans. The Sherry

fl ows and the sounds of fl amenco share the air with the smells of smoked chorizo.

Welcome to Feria de Jerez, the annual festival thrown the second week of May in the heart of Spain’s Sherry country. What once began humbly in the Middle Ages as a horse and livestock show has come to be the most anticipated holiday in the state of Cádiz, with feasts, bullfi ghts and dancing till dawn.

Planning your trip to Jerez couldn’t be timelier. First, Sherry is having a major moment—and Jerez

is the nerve center of its production. London has seen a boom in dedicated Sherry bars, New Yorkers throw Manzanilla-pairing parties, and bartenders worldwide boost their cocktails with doses of Pedro Ximenez. (When in Jerez, go local and either take your Sherry neat, or in rebujitos—a must-try mix of fi no and lemon soda.)

Second, and most importantly, since the international tourist set still seems preoccupied with the more commercial running of the bulls in Pamplona and the Feria de Abril in Sevilla, the party in Jerez remains a truly Spanish affair and under the radar—for now.

NO SHERRY SPILLING!

It often takes about a

year (and costs several

paychecks) to make and

alter a festival-worthy

fl amenco dress.

–Story & Photos By Lauren Mowery

WineMag.com | 15


THEENTHDEGREE DRINKTHISNOW

With its hot Pannonian

climate and 300 days of

sun each year, Burgenland

is like Austria’s own little

Sonoma or Mendoza.

AUSTRIA’S Red Delight DistrictMeet the oft-overlooked and delicious robust reds of the Burgenland region: Blaufränkisch, St. Laurent & Zweigelt

Blaufränkisch (blahw-FRAHN-kish)

Hans Nittnaus, prize-winning Austrian winemaker, thinks this tasty variety is “perched somewhere between Pinot Noir and Syrah.” Indeed. Divinely elegant, Blaufränkisch has body without heaviness, supple tannins and notes of ripe forest fruits. It can be restrained and subtle or joyously berry fruited. It’s a versatile food wine that works well with almost all meats and spicy dishes. If you can score a mature bottle, smoky undergrowth and earthy fruit tones await.

St. Laurent (San LAUR-ont)

This thin-skinned grape is said to be even more fi ckle than Pinot Noir—but in the right hands it shines, delivering layers of red fruit. Strawberry and Morello cherry dominate, edged by gentle pepperiness. The tannins are ephemeral and silky, and underneath there is a seductive pull of something truly earthy and authentic. Do the bottle justice with equally subtle food: salmon and mushrooms would work extremely well; miso-fl avored dishes would resonate, too.

Zweigelt (SWHY-gelt)

A cross between Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent, this young grape is the best intro varietal to Austrian reds. Light-hearted in body and style, this often-unoaked wine usually has primary plum and strawberry fruit, making it the perfect lunchtime or picnic pour. It’s rarely heavy and usually affordable, and its fruity simplicity makes it chill-able. It’s a winner with cold meats and salads. —Anne Krebiehl

IP N THE BOTTLETo fi gure out which

Burgenland reds to try, turn to our Buying Guide on page 69 for reviews by our European Editor ,

Roger Voss.

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Where most of us see only fog, Robert Mondavi saw pure fruit fl avors,

food-friendly acidity, and people enjoying the subtly crafted fl avors

of Robert Mondavi Private Selection with their family and friends.

facebook.com/RobertMondaviPrivateSelection


THEENTHDEGREE LIFEOFTHEPARTY

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How to be a better HOUSEGUESTA Labor Day invitation to a friend’s vacation home is the ultimate summer get. Here’s how to make sure you’re asked back.

1SAY YES TO THE ADDRESS A spare bedroom in a prime location is a rare commodity, and your host shouldn’t be held hostage while you consider other possibilities or fi gure out who’s going to care for your cat. Honor the request with a reply within a few days at most. Unlike dating, this three-day rule matters.

2 OUT-HOST YOUR HOST “Can I bring anything?” Um, of course you can. Don’t be silly and dull. Instead, offer to cook dinner Saturday or Sunday night. Ask what they like, and arrive with all of your ingredients (and a cookbook or two to leave behind). Let your hosts relax while you man the kitchen and grill. Other guests may be late coming back from the beach or a bike ride, so plan dishes that can be prepped early on and then fi nished on the grill or stovetop at the last minute.

3 POUR THE PINK Whether your Labor Day digs are a cabin in the country or a beach house, stuff the ice bucket with high-end rosés. The pink drink is like white shoes—best enjoyed before school starts. Head to the Provençe section of your wine shop and score a few bottles of Chêne Bleu Rosé or Château d’Esclans Garrus. Expecting a bigger crowd? Load up on a few cost-effective cases of Jean-Luc Colombo Cape Bleu Rosé.

—Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen


BUY&CELLARA FEW OF THIS MONTH’S

TOP PICKS—AND WHEN

TO DRINK THEM

For hundreds of more wine reviews turn to our Buying Guide on page 69, or head to winemag.com

GO EASTOur kitchen changed forever when Susan Feniger’s Street Food

(Clarkson Potter, 2012) landed on our counter. We were so taken

by her renditions of dishes from food stalls around the world.

Her best spice lesson: Table the Tex-Mex sauce for a while and

head East. Experiment with spicy bean paste, splash on

sriracha, and raid the Asian grocery stores in

your city for imported chili peppers.

CHURN & BURNSpicy sauces need three

components: Acid, such as

rice vinegar, soy sauce or lime

juice; heat, found in chilies;

and sugar, for caramelization.

Come up with a couple of

combos you like, slather your

proteins—chicken wings, baby back

ribs, beef strips, shrimp—with sticky hot

goodness and top with flavorful accents like

cilantro, scallions or green papaya.

STRIKE A MATCHAromatic white wines—Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc,

Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris—are perfect with spicy food. While

these wines sometimes clash with more delicate dishes, they’re

almost always right at home when pairing with intense heat.

Be sure to serve them cold,

but you knew that.

–M.D & J.J.

THEENTHDEGREE

With forecasters saying September is the new

August, chill out by turning up the temp on your tastebuds.

Seriously.✴

2022

allotto 2007 Cav

erva Vignolo R si

(Ba olr .)o his has fl oral T violet layered with roa mas fo

d truffl e, while theisp ce ane delivers cherry, mint andlpa at

namon. Nice complexity but nicstill young. Michael Skurnik Wines.

—Kerin O’Keefe

abv: 14.5% Price: $98

CHOICEEDITORS ’

Valley). (Barossa Despite ine’s weight, it retains iht ws

perb balance and structure.susFirm acids and tannins support the blueberry fruit, while notes like mocha add dimension. Epicurean Wines. —Joe Czerwinski

RD INK AFTER 2018

Château Rousset-

Caillau 2011

Bordeaux Supérieur.This has weight and aging potential. Dry tannins are balanced with ripe berry fruits and juicy acidity. House of Burgundy.

—Roger Voss

abv: 13.5% Price: $15

BEST BUY

✴ A recent Penn State University

study confirmed what street

food eaters in Saigon and Mexico City

have long known: fiery foods chemically

trigger your internal air conditioner.

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THEENTHDEGREE RECIPEOFTHEMONTH

When staring down an abundance of late summer produce from your garden, do like Mona Talbott, executive chef at the Sustainable Food Proj-ect in Rome: make a delizioso soup. Here’s Talbott’s recipe from her new book Zuppe.

ROASTED EGGPLANT & TOMATO SOUP

4½ pounds purple globe

eggplant

5 tablespoons extra virgin

olive oil

3 medium red onions,

sliced thin

2 garlic cloves, sliced thin

1 teaspoon red pepper fl akes

Salt, to taste

8 ripe tomatoes, diced

3 basil sprigs, chopped

3 mint sprigs, chopped

Parmesan Cheese

Cut the eggplants in half lengthwise and lay

them skin side up on a baking sheet lined with

lightly oiled parchment paper. Roast at 375˚F

until soft and collapsing, about 1 hour.

Combine olive oil, onions, garlic and red pepper

fl akes along with a generous pinch of salt in a 5-quart

pot over medium-low heat. Cook until the onions are

translucent. Add the tomatoes and cook for 30–45 minutes,

until the tomatoes are tender and broken down.

When the eggplant is cool, scoop out the fl esh and chop it.

Discard the skins. Add the eggplant to the pot along with 1½

quarts of water. Bring the soup to a boil and simmer for 40

minutes, stirring occasionally.

Transfer half the soup to a large bowl. Using a hand

blender, puré e the soup remaining in the pot until smooth.

Add the soup from the bowl back to the pot and stir. Add

the mint and basil and cook for 10 more minutes. Serve

cool or at room temperature. Top with Parmesan fl akes.

Serves 6-8

PAIR IT: Talbott recommends a bold Cesanese del

Piglio. It will harmonize well with the tomato, garlic

and spice, allowing the sweetness of the roasted

eggplant to shine.

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Behind every Antinori label is a 600-year pursuit of excellence.

©2013 Imported from Italy by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates Ltd., Woodinville, WA www.antinori.it


O bviously, we’re graced with an ideal year-round farming climate. We have access to traditional summer crops like heirloom tomatoes, sweet corn and tender lettuces in December. And

winter root vegetables, citrus and Brassica vegetables are on the menu in July. Seasonality does exist in fruit crops, and summer always warmly welcomes mangos, along with avocados, lychees and mountain apples.

Many tropical fruits become available in the fall and we preserve them as chutneys, jams and mostarda so we can enjoy them all year. In the fall we always look forward to Maru persimmon from Maui’s Hashimoto Persimmon Farm, it’s an incredibly sweet variety and has the crispness of an apple. We often serve it with house-cured Shinsato Farm salumi or grilled Naked Cow Dairy halloumi. It also makes for an amazing persimmon pudding.

Autumn also brings us star fruit, guava, and ulu, or breadfruit. The Deep Seven Snapper fi shery usually reopens in September, and they provide us with some of the most prized delicacies of the deep blue. The list goes on.

And while an aloha 'aina (“love of the land”) sensibility permeates the restaurants here, ironically, our ideal growing climate has in some ways hindered our ability to feed ourselves in Hawaii. For over a centu-ry most of our agricultural land has been allocated toward large planta-tion export crops like sugar cane and pineapple. So, despite our ability to grow food year-round, the state still imports about 90% of every-thing that we consume.

But thankfully, the recent slow down of these super large, plantation-style export-farming outfi ts here is actually opening up the opportunity for sustainable, diversifi ed agriculture to really take root. And it’s becoming apparent more and more: 12 years ago, the Saturday KCC Farmer’s Market here in Honolulu was the only game in town. Now, there are farmers’ markets every day of the week, and large supermarkets like Foodland and Whole Foods are offering impressive selections of local produce and meats. We’ve been in business for eight years and the amount of farms and products available to us grows daily. That’s a good thing. —As told to Virginie Boone

Ed Kenney, head chef and owner of Town in Honolulu, talks about Hawaii’s subtle seasons (yes, there are more than one), and how sustainable farming in this lush island chain of plenty is only now catching fire.

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THEENTHDEGREE DESTINATION

liqueur, lemon cordial and grapefruit bitters) and Spigot Bigot (IPA, mezcal, Solerno, agave, lime and hellfi re bitters). At small-production-minded Central Bottle Wine + Provisions (centralbottle.com), the eclectic weekly tasting offerings can range from sour beers to the cult wines of Italy. Spoke Wine Bar (facebook.com/spokewinebar) in nearby Somerville pairs small bites with artisan

wines, while Local 149 (local149.com) is a South Boston haven for craft beer and small-batch booze.

GRAZE: Savenor’s Butcher and Market (savenorsmarket.com) in Boston and Cambridge has farm-fresh produce, local meats and the region’s

best sammies (sandwiches) to order. Must try: The Ariccia, with house-made porketta, pickled fennel and Eat Local Honey on an Iggy’s farmhouse roll. Somerville-based Taza Chocolate

(tazachocolate.

com) stone-grinds chocolate beans into a medley of bars and will show you how on a factory tour. Reasons To Be Cheerful (cheerful-reasons.com) in West Concord, is an old-fashioned ice cream parlor with very grown-up fl avors like raspberry-lime Rickey and margarita sorbet. —Virginie Boone

Central Bottle

Craigie on Main

This scrappy city is more than just colleges, cobblestones and crazy sports fans—its food and booze scenes rival LA and New York. Here’s the gourmand’s guide to Bea own.

EAT: Ming Tsai’s Blue Dragon

(bluedragon.com), in Boston’s Fort Point Channel, rocks East-meets-West-style tapas with a gastropub twist, enjoyed best with sake or house cocktails like the Dragon Bowl,

a big-enough-for-two blend of rum, Pisco and passion fruit. In Cambridge, don’t miss Craigie on Main (craigieonmain.com), James Beard Award-winning chef Tony Maws’s shrine to upscale comfort food; whole hog dinners happen here regularly. Do. Not. Miss.

DRINK: You’ve got to love a town where they name a bar after an insufferable hatchet-wielding temperance-movement fi gure. The Carrie Nation Cocktail Club

(carrienationcocktailclub.com) in Beacon Hill delivers a history lesson via drinks like the Volstead (rum, Chartreuse, maraschino cherry

Blue Dragon

nt

BOSTON

A CAMPAIGN FINANCED ACCORDING

TO EC REGULATIONS N. 1234/07

planetaFor each terroir, its own winery

FIVE BOUTIQUE WINERIES

ONE VISION

@PLANETAWINERY

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Halifax may be beautiful, but its relative remoteness makes it a pain in the neck if you’re trying

to invent envelope-pushing cocktails.“It’s really hard to get anything

different here,” says Jenner Cormier. “Especially when it comes to bitters.”

So Cormier started making his own, and soon his homemade bitters became the backbone of his eclectic drink menu. He fi rst recreated classic Peychaud’s bitters and others soon followed.

He now has dozens of flavors, including mocha, Granny Smith apple, plum and a crazy-tasty pear-and-oak bitter that’s made with a smidge of cigar wrapper.

“I’m big into making sure drinks have unique aromas, and bitters are key for that,” Cormier says, a task sometimes accomplished by spraying them to coat the inside of a glass, or torching them to coax out smoky notes.

“It takes time to make them all, but in the end it’s worth it,” he says. “It makes them truly unique creations.”

THE PUPILLAM

1½ ounces mezcal

½ ounce Benedictine

½ ounce Pinot Grigio

½ ounce fresh lime juice

½ ounce simple syrup

2 heavy dashes Bar Keep Apple

Bitters

2–3 sprigs of mint (1 sprig

reserved for garnish)

Combine all ingredients in a mixing

glass, add ice and shake for 12–15

seconds. Strain into a chilled coupe glass

and garnish with a mint sprig.

For more cocktail recipes, visit

winemag.com/cocktailrecipes.

WineMag.com | 29

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Drink in fall with this apple-laced

cocktail from Nova Scotia’s

best b artender

ABOUT THE BARTENDERJenner Cormier, beverage manager, Middle Spoon and Noble in Halifax, Nova Scotia

A SELF-MADE MIXOLOGIST


WINE ENTHUSIAST: How did Casamigos come

to be?

GEORGE CLOONEY: Casamigos was always intended as our house Tequila for our homes in Mexico and only recently, at the urging of people who enjoyed it with us, we decided to make it available to the public.

WE: Why did you want to make Tequila?

RANDE GERBER: George and I were on a never-ending search for the perfect Tequila. There were a few very good ones, but there was always something we wished we could change. GC: Yeah, one we didn’t need to cover up with salt or lime.

WE: What is your favorite way to drink

Casamigos?

GC: Depends on the setting. If we’re sitting around before dinner, I tend to enjoy it neat. If we are out at a bar and we’re drinking it all night long, Rande throws a few cubes in. We love that we can drink it straight all night long with no hangover the next morning.

WE: When it isn’t Tequila, what are some of

your favorite wines?

GC: I’ve really come to like Barolos recently— and Valpolicella. Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino comes to mind. And, lately, Zenato Amarone della Valpolicella.

WE: What is your favorite food and wine

pairing?

GC: Pinot Grigio with fi sh, cooked fi llet-style like they serve it in Italy. And some Tuscan reds when going more towards pastas with rich and heavy sauces.

WE: So, when you sip your Tequila, what comes

to mind?

GC: Beachside in Cabo, just relaxing and watching the beauty of the earth in front of me.—Lesley Jacobs Solmonson

DRINKING TEQUILA WITH CLOONEY George Clooney and his longtime pal Rande Gerber (who owns the Whiskey Blue and Living Room bar chains) set out to make a small batch of their favorite Mexican booze and the Casamigos brand was born. Now, it’s coming to America. We sit down with the two to talk Tequila, wine and how to avoid a hangover.

DOS AMIGOS

Clooney and Gerber

enjoying the fruits

of their labor.

PROOFPOSITIVE Q&A

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1 In a glass, combine

2 ounces of fresh

grapefruit juice; an ounce

of lime juice; an ounce of

simple syrup. Add ice amd

stir in 2 ounces of Tequila.

Make A Perfect La Poloma

Give the Americanized margarita a

break already (seriously, how many

has it been this summer?) and mix

up Mexico’s most popular thirst-

quenching Tequila cocktail.

2Next, top with

club soda, drop

in a liberal pinch of

salt and stir once.

Garnish with an

orange slice.

Eat! Drink! Italy! with Vic Rallo A New Public Television

Series Celebrating Italy’s

Food, People, History,

Wine and Culture

Premieres

Nationally July, 2013

A unique, fast-paced, informative tour of

Italy’s limitless food and wine, from the

Alps to the southern shores of Sicily.

Check Local Listings at: www.eatdrinkitaly.org

Visit our

retail website at

www.rallowines.com

[THE WINE]

Delta

Delta has one of the better wine programs

in the air, with a selection curated by

Master Sommelier Andrea Robinson. Her

long, diverse list includes a 2005 El Coto

de Imaz Rioja Reserva, and Jacquart’s Brut

Mosaïque Champagne.

>The Order: 2001 Château La Rame

Sémillon, Sainte-Croix-Du-Mont

[THE PUNCH]

Air Tahiti Nui

Air Tahiti Nui offers a slew of signature

drinks made with French Polynesian

ingredients, like a Cuba Libré mixed with

the local vanilla-bean-infused Manutea

Rhum.

>The Order: The Tahitian Rum Punch

(pineapple, orange and passion fruit

juices, local sugar cane spirit and local

Manutea Rhum)

[THE BAR]

Virgin Atlantic

Upper Class fliers can hit the 8-foot-

long, fully stocked bar. Sidle up mid-flight,

while Vivienne Westwood-clad bartenders

pour the airline’s signature Virgin

Redhead (sparkling wine, berry liqueurs,

Bombay Sapphire and fresh raspberries).

>The Order: The Golden Girl (Grey

Goose Vodka, lime juice, pineapple juice,

Cointreau and Prosecco)

[THE COCKTAIL]

Singapore Air

This luxe airline has the best in-flight

cocktail menu. Be sure to try the famous

Singapore Sling (they serve nearly half a

million each year), and explore the airline’s

take on classic drinks (it’s a long flight).

>The Order: Singapore Silver Kris Sling

(a version of the original, with gin,

Cointreau, orange juice and Champagne)

[THE BEER]

Jet Blue

Most carriers have yet to leave watery-

lager runway. Thankfully, Jet Blue now

serves Brooklyn Brewery and Sam

Adams. While we would prefer even

more craft beer choices, the bargain

airline still deserves a tip of the skycap.

>The Order: Brooklyn Brewery

Summer Ale

High in the SkyAirlines are once again pouring high-end bottles and cocktails. Is it just another way to bilk us even more for services that were once gratis? You bet. Do we care? Nope. Mommy and daddy want a decent drink. Welcome to the new mile-high clubs.


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PROOFPOSITIVE TRENDWATCH

✴$27.1 Billion What airlines made last year

off extras, like baggage fees

and fancy cocktails.

Apple, the Apple logo, iPad, iPhone, and iPod touch are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries. App Store is a service mark of Apple Inc.

Your favorite features, on your favorite device

Download Wine Enthusiast Magazine from the App Store� today and enjoy all your favorite features:

Wine Features

We highlight emerging and

established wine regions

and topics worldwide as

well as monthly articles on

the best wines to drink now.

Pairings

Inventive wine and food

pairings are presented

with beatiful photography,

wine recommendations

and cooking tips, making

delicious wine and food

matches a breeze.

Travel

New discoveries and iconic

destinations are explored

in stunning spreads,

including insider tips, local

cuisine and more.

Entertaining

Planning a wine dinner,

holiday meal or seasonal

celebration is simple with

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featuring recipes, cocktails,

specifi c wine recommen-

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Now available on the iPad®!


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THE SOAPBOX

DO AUSSIE WINES AGE WELL?Debunking the myth that wines from Oz must be enjoyed young.

First, let’s stipulate that the vast majority of most wines are meant to be consumed in their youth, and that’s certainly true of Australia’s most popular bottlings.

Don’t expect that Yellow Tail Shiraz to miraculously evolve while it’s forgotten atop your refrigerator, or the Alice White Chardonnay to improve during the six months it’s been hiding beyond the mayonnaise and wilted celery. It’s not these everyday wines I’m talking about, but Australia’s higher-end pours, generally red.

Following the great 1996 and 1998 vintages, consumer interest in these wines surged, driven in part by some American critics, who heaped praise on Australia’s herculean, block-buster reds, laden with alcohol and extract.

For many of those wines with big point scores, prolonged maturity estimates and

infl ated price tags, time has not been kind. Several of my wine-loving friends, seduced by words like unctuous, massive or explosive (all used to favorably describe dry reds), have since offl oaded their purchases, disillusioned by the hollow, alcoholic shells some of their wines became.

These experiences—and the preponder-ance of inexpensive varietal wines in the U.S. market—have led to the widespread conclu-sion that Australian wines don’t age well.

Not so fast.In March 2013, the Henschke family

dug deep into its cellar to celebrate the 50th release of its Hill of Grace Shiraz. As one of just three international critics to attend, I was treated to a complete vertical tasting of the famous wine, which comes from one small parcel of vines originally planted around 1860 in Barossa’s Eden Valley.

“It may be the only time we get to do this,” said Stephen Henschke, whose voice cracked with emotion as he hailed the contribu-tions of his ancestors, but especially so as he talked about passing the estate on to future generations.

We “worked” our way from oldest to youngest, starting with the first vintage released, the 1958. Every decade we stopped to discuss the wines we’d just tasted.

The ’62—a highly regarded Barossa vintage—was a standout, meeting or exceeding every expectation of those in attendance. The length of the wine’s fi nish and suppleness of its texture set it apart, even at 50-plus years of age.

“It’s what I have in mind when making Hill of Grace,” said Stephen. “What we see in the ’50s and ’60s are really raw, natural wines—they really refl ect the vintage.”

Overall, the wines of the ’70s were not as

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THE SOAPBOX

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Top Drops

If you can keep any of these wines in your

cellar for 10 years or more, you’ll drink happy.

Barossa Shiraz

Glaetzer Amon-Ra

Henschke Hill of Grace

Henschke Mount Edelstone Vineyard

Penfolds Grange

Penfolds RWT

Peter Lehmann Stonewell

Standish The Relic

Standish The Standish

Torbreck RunRig

Coonawarra Cabernet

Parker Terra Rossa First Growth

Wynns John Riddoch

McLaren Vale Shiraz

Clarendon Hills Astralis

D’Arenberg The Dead Arm

Margaret River Cabernet

Cullen Diana Madeline

Moss Wood

Vasse Felix

Other Regions/Varietals/Blends

Brokenwood Graveyard Vineyard Shiraz

(Hunter Valley)

Giaconda Shiraz (Victoria)

Glaetzer Anaperenna Shiraz-Cabernet

(Barossa)

Jim Barry The Armagh Shiraz (Clare Valley)

Mount Langi Ghiran Langi Shiraz (Victoria)

Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet-Shiraz (South

Australia)

Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet (South Australia)

Penfolds St. Henri Shiraz (South Australia)

Wakefi eld St. Andrews Cabernet (Clare

Valley)

Yalumba The Reserve Cabernet-Shiraz

(varies)

Yarra Yering Dry Red No. 1 Cabernet (Yarra

Valley)

Add your favorites to the list by visiting

winemag.com/aussiesforaging.

“These days, with hygienic winemaking and modern closures, almost any high-quality Australian red wine will last 5–8 years.”

strong, refl ecting that decade’s trend toward lighter, less alcoholic wines.

Stephen explained that the wines of the ’50s and ’60s would have been picked riper than those in the ’70s, perhaps a legacy left over from the days of making fortifi ed wines.

More recent vintages remain youthful, many seemingly with decades ahead of them, like the ’81, ’82 and ’86, and virtually anything from the ’90s or younger.

If Hill of Grace is one icon of Australian winedom, its counterpart is Penfolds Grange. While Hill of Grace is a single-vineyard wine, Grange is a multiregional blend, but always anchored by Barossa Shiraz.

Almost a year ago, Penfolds brought a complete vertical of Grange to New York City as part of its Rewards of Patience program, which periodically reassesses nearly every Penfolds wine.

Once again, we tasted the wines from oldest to youngest, from the 1952 up through the unrelased 2010. With few exceptions, the wines shone brilliantly, even after traveling halfway around the world for the event (they did have a chance to settle a bit ahead of time).

Taking part in that tasting, I left with no doubts as to Grange’s ageability up to 50 years or more. Again, the ’62 was a standout.

It’s one thing to identify a couple of extra-ordinary wines that make a point. But are Grange and Hill of Grace the exceptions that prove the rule?

Hardly.These days, with hygienic winemaking

and modern closures, almost any high-quality Australian red wine will last 5–8 years. The number of them that actually improve with 10–20 years of age is much smaller, but it’s in no way limited to just a few trophy wines from the Barossa.

I’m fortunate to have been able to try a number of other Australian reds 10-plus years after the vintage, including classics like Wynns 1991 Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon, Cullen’s 1995 Diana Madeline and Barossa Valley Estate’s 1998 E&E Black Pepper Shiraz.

Here are some general guidelines when picking wines for extended cellaring:

Look for producers and wines with track records. One easy way is by consulting Langton’s Classifi cation of Australian Wine.

Stick to classic region-variety combinations, like Barossa Shiraz, Coonawarra Cabernet and Margaret River Cabernet.

Avoid extremes, whether of vintage (too cool or too hot) or alcohol levels (be leery of wines that top 15% abv).

Following these suggestions should minimize your risk. Or check my list of cellar favorites in the sidebar at right.

Joe Czerwinski is the

managing editor of Wine

Enthusiast Magazine. A 14-year

veteran of the publication, he

has reviewed Australian wines

for the magazine since 2007.

Let’s Talk. 800.356.8466

We designed this custom cellar.Imagine what we can do for you.

Any home.

Any space.

Any budget.


eriodically, Zinfandel comes into style and goes out of fashion. It’s currently “in” like never before, with hot new

restaurants like Healdsburg’s Spoonbar and San Francisco’s Hakkasan giving it prominent play on their wine lists.

“It’s one of those wines that guests don’t typically ask for, but when we pour it for them, they absolutely love it,” says Cara Patricia, Hakkasan’s senior sommelier.

Part of the consumer hesitance lies in the multiple personalities Zin has shown over the years. It’s been made red, white, rosé, sweet, dry, late-harvest (“Port”) style, Beaujolais-style and even sparkling.

The variety grows well wherever the climate is warm enough to ripen it, which is

pretty much everywhere in California that’s not on the immediate coast. Yet, Zinfandel thrives in some regions more than others.

In general, Zin shows two styles: one from warm, inland regions, the other from cool-to-warm regions where the vines experience some maritime infl uence.

The former tends to be higher in alcohol, the latter a little more elegant, but neither is “better.” It’s all a matter of taste.

Keep in mind, too, that vintners have several techniques for adjusting alcohol downward. So even warm-climate Zins that got very ripe can still have moderate alcohol levels.

The following six pages zero in on the Golden State’s top Zinfandel addresses, analyzing what makes each one so special.

Our California editors share their favorite growing regions for the Golden State’s most iconic grape.

WineMag.com | 39


In many respects, Napa Valley produces California’s best Zinfandels.

The valley is “in the sweet spot between the cold Pacifi c and California’s blazing Central Valley,” says vintner Jayson Woodbridge, who produces several brands. Napa’s heat, which is greater than Dry Creek Valley’s but not as intense as Lodi’s, ripens the grapes easily. Cool nighttime temperatures help the grapes retain acidity.

But, as veteran winemaker Joel Aiken says, “Napa has a lot of hillside Zins that are 100-plus years old, and that terroir is different from the valley fl oor.”

As with Cabernet Sauvignon, that hillside infl uence results in smaller berries and more con-centrated wines.

The old vines, in particular, seem to make wines with unusual concatenations of fl avors. The roots may penetrate deep into the earth, tapping into minerals not near the surface.

Also, in old vineyards, the varieties are rarely just Zinfandel. They often include Carignane, Alicante Bouschet, Petite Sirah and almost anything else that the Italian-American immigrants originally planted. The resulting wines show a huge range of nuances.

Yet the valley’s soils are so jumbled that any spot—fl atland, bench or slope—can yield Zinfandels of power and textured elegance. Summers Estate Wines’s Four-Acre bottling consistently shows well, even though the vineyard is situated on the valley fl oor.

Winemaker Ignacio Blancas, who persuaded Summers’ owners not to rip out the struggling vines, puts its success down to several factors: 40–50-year-old vines, the vineyard location, volcanic soils and dry farming.

One last factor in the success of any wine, including Zinfandel, is money. It takes a lot of it to produce world-class wine, and Napa Valley has a lot of money. —S.H.

RECENT TOP-SCORING ZINS FROM NAPA VALLEY

93

Elyse 2009 Black-Sears Vineyard Zinfandel

(Howell Mountain); $37.

93

Summers 2009 Four-Acre Zinfandel (Calisto-

ga); $34.

92

Chase 2009 Hayne Vineyard Reserve

Zinfandel (St. Helena); $75.

Other recommended producers: Biale, Black Stallion,

Chiarello Family, D-Cubed Cellars, Frog’s Leap, Hendry, Peju,

Storybook Mountain, Turley

WineMag.com | 41

If you taught a class on Zinfandel, your textbook appellation might just be Dry Creek Valley.

“Raspberry, strawberry-ish, not very tannic, highly aromatic,” says Miro Tcholakov, the winemaker for Trentadue and his own Miro brand.

Joe Healy, the winemaker at Bella Vineyards, adds “peppery-spicy” to the description, which approaches my own choice of “briary and brambly” to pinpoint the dusty, dried-leaf, high-toned quality that suggests wild berry foraging on a 95˚F Dry Creek summer afternoon.

Many of Dry Creek Valley’s Zinfandels are from old vines, head-trained and dry-farmed. Zinfandel’s biggest problem, as all winemakers attest, is notoriously uneven ripeness at harvest.

Green berries sit next to perfect berries, which both neighbor shriveled raisins. Somehow, this problem seems less pronounced in old vines, especially if they’re trellised.

Of course, vineyard site counts, too. As in the Napa and Alexander valleys, Dry Creek Valley gets warmer the further northwest you go. In the searingly hot Rockpile area, the Zins can get jammy and Port-like.

The best Dry Creek Zins come from the benches and hills, not the valley fl oor.

In particular, the slopes on the east side of Dry Creek Road yield wines of focus and spicy deliciousness: Miro’s Woolcott-Bevill and Piccetti (a two-vineyard blend) and Bella’s Maple Vineyards (a single-vineyard wine despite the plural) both come from there.

Dry Creek Zins, like good Zins everywhere,

don’t like too much new oak. Tcholakov seldom ages the wine in more than 25% new French oak. Many others don’t even go that high. A good Zin’s natural tannins don’t need the additional wood tannins extracted from new barrels. —S.H.

RECENT TOP-SCORING ZINS FROM DRY CREEK VALLEY

93

Seghesio 2010 Cortina Zinfandel (Dry

Creek Valley); $38.

92

Miro 2011 Woolcoot-Bevill and Piccetti

Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley); $26.

91

Bella 2010 Maple Vineyards Zinfandel

(Dry Creek Valley); $40.

Other recommended producers: A. Rafanelli,

Dry Creek Vineyard, Gary Farrell, J. Rickards, Quivira,

Ravenswood, Ridge, Sbragia


Where Napa Valley and Dry Creek Valley represent warm growing regions for Zinfandel, the Russian River Valley—most of it, anyway—is cool. Russian River Zins tend to be lower in alcohol and higher in acidity, especially in our recent run of cool vintages (2010–12).

One of the best areas for Zinfandel is in the Olivet-Piner area of the Santa Rosa Plain, south of River Road (also prime Pinot Noir territory). This area is open to the maritime infl uence fl owing up from the Petaluma Gap, which receives a daily dose of chilly air from San Francisco/San Pablo Bay.

Rod Berglund, owner of Joseph Swan Vineyards, says his grapes from the Mancini Vineyard are incredibly late ripeners—he often doesn’t pick until November, which makes this Zinfandel highly vintage-dependent.

Bob Cabral, director of winemaking for Williams Selyem, whose Papera Vineyard is nearby, says, “You’ll never get the syrupy, viscous, concentrated fruit of Dry Creek Valley.”

In fact, in a good year when the rains hold off, Zins from the Santa Rosa Plain hit the sweet spot. The long hangtime lets them achieve perfect ripeness, while moderate temperatures, particularly at night, avoid the dried-out berries that can make overripe Zins bitter and pruny.

These cool-climate Russian River Zins age well. Berglund doesn’t even release his for four-plus years, which isn’t particularly cost-conscious. But, he says, “It’s neither wise, nor fair to sell it when it’s young.” —S.H.

RECENT TOP-SCORING ZINS FROM RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY

95

Williams Selyem 2011 Papera Vineyard

Zinfandel (Russian River Valley); $52.

91

River Road Vineyards 2911 Bischetti Old

Vine Zinfandel (Russian River Valley); $18.

90

Joseph Swan 2007 Mancini Ranch Zin-

fandel (Russian River Valley); $28.

Other recommended producers: Carlisle, De Loach,

Hartford, Martinelli, Ravenswood, V. Sattui

WineMag.com | 43

Known for its juicy, boldly fl avored wines, Lodi is Zinfandel country, responsible for nearly one-third of California’s production.

Located inland of Sacramento along the San Joaquin/Sacramento River Delta, Lodi eases gently down and west from the Sierra Nevada mountain range. It’s contigu-ous enough that portions of the region are nicknamed the Toehills, refl ecting how parts of Lodi are very much an extension of the Sierra Foothills.

Lodi’s grape growers survived Prohibition by shipping trainloads of grapes to home wine-makers, so the region remains a bastion of old vines. Plantings date back to 1888, some on their original rootstocks.

The region’s Mediterranean climate—warm daytime heat soothed by Delta breezes—and diverse soils can grow nearly everything, from Albariño to burly old-vine Zinfandel.

The eastern side of Lodi—the vineyards east of Highway 99, including half of the Mokelumne River, and the Alta Mesa, Clements Hills and Borden Ranch AVAs—is slightly warmer and has deep soils that yield small berry sizes.

These wines tend to retain higher acidity levels, possess tighter tannins and produce rich wines that hint of black tea and dusty chocolate.

The western section of the Mokelumne River AVA—Lodi’s historic center—is dominated by Tokay fi ne sandy loam soils and cooler temperatures. Its wines are typically round, lush and earthy, but possess ample acidity.

Ryan Sherman, the winemaker for Fields Family, describes his wines as having pretty aromatics, character and complexity, with nothing overblown or heavy—a more restrained approach to Zinfandel.

With structure, balanced acidity and well-integrated tannins, they offer a nice interplay of red and black fruit components.

“Our wines significantly overdeliver on quality relative to price,” he says. “I’d put some of the newer Zins coming out of Lodi in a blind panel with some of the best palates, and it would be eye-opening for some people, altering preconceived notions.” —V.B.

RECENT TOP-SCORING ZINS FROM LODI

91

Fields Family 2010 Sherman Family Vine-

yards Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi); $24.

90

McCay Cellars 2009 Jupiter Zinfandel

(Lodi); $28.

89

Mettler Family Vineyards 2010 Epicen-

ter Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi); $20.

Other recommended producers: Borra, Harney

Lane, Klinker Brick, m2, Macchia, Michael David, Uvaggio

(Primitivo), Turley


With vines hearkening back to California’s Gold Rush more than a century ago, Zinfandel is the Sierra Foothills’ longest-standing and most widely planted variety.

Set among the jagged mountains between Lake Tahoe and Yosemite, Foothills vineyards range from 1,000–3,000 feet above sea level.

Divided among four counties—Amador, El Dorado, Nevada and Calaveras—vineyards and wineries are spread out. Growing characteristics can vary substantially from site to site, although most vineyards are planted on soils derived from decomposed granite.

The one thing these areas have most in common is Zinfandel.

The area’s 1970s grape boom kicked off when the old-vine Deaver Vineyard showed up on a Corti Brothers wine from 1968. Wineries from outside the region, like Sutter Home and Ridge, started sourcing grapes from the Sierras. Local wineries, like Boeger and Montevina, followed soon after.

The Amador County towns of Plymouth and Fiddletown serve as the northern center of the

appellation. Pioneers like Boeger, Montevina, Renwood and Easton are still going strong, alongside new faces like Andis, Fiddletown Cellars and Helwig.

Fiddletown Cellars and Borjón winemaker Joe Shebl, who also serves as Helwig’s general manager, says there’s been a shift over the last decade toward more concentrated, structured and refi ned Zinfandels, “stemming from more precise farming and smarter, more calculated winemaking approaches in terms of fermen-tation and aging management, use of better barrels and a drive to show off what this area is capable of.”

Working with so many different vineyards, Shebl finds it difficult to peg an “Amador County” style of Zinfandel. Some create Zins with deeply concentrated black fruit fl avors and silky, balanced tannins, he says, while others make wines that are lighter, with more fresh red fruit and fi nesse.

At the southern end of the appellation lies Calaveras County, where a few producers are

honing in on specifi c vineyard sites that seem to capture Zinfandel’s playful nature.

Sierra Foothills Zinfandels often evolve great elegance upon aging. Tight and often intense when young, with pronounced cinna-mon-tinged spice, creamy textures and layers of tar, licorice and cedar, these Zins increasingly offer a sense of freshness, making them very inviting to drink. —V.B.

RECENT TOP-SCORING ZINS FROM SIERRA FOOTHILLS

93

Easton 2010 Estate Bottled Zinfandel

(Shenandoah Valley); $32.

92

Newsome-Harlow 2010 Big John

Zinfandel (Calaveras County); $36.

91

Cedarville 2010 Estate Zinfandel (El

Dorado); $22.

Other recommended producers: Amador Foothill,

Andis, Borjón, Deaver, Fiddletown Cellars, Hovey, Lava Cap,

Mirafl ores, Montevina, Renwood, Scott Harvey, Sobon

Estate, Terra d’Oro, Yorba

The emergence of Anderson Valley as a Pinot Noir and Chardonnay powerhouse has dulled some of Mendocino’s original luster as a source of Zinfandel, but this vast county still has a lot of Zin in the ground. Most of it is within the region’s interior.

The county is huge—bigger than Delaware—and 70 percent forested. The majority of the vineyards lie along the Upper Russian River and Navarro River watersheds, on benchlands in and around the towns of Ukiah and Talmage, in Redwood Valley and in high-elevation subregions like Mendocino Ridge.

Italian immigrants planted much of the Zin here, relying on dry farming and sturdy head-pruned vines. Many of the vineyards were fi eld blends that included not only Zinfandel, but also Carignane, Petite Sirah and others.

Acres of these vineyards persist today, many of them the legacy of the Italian Swiss Colony era. Mendocino grapes were often shipped to the company’s headquarters in nearby Asti (Sonoma County) to be made into bulk wine destined for bottling facilities all over the U.S.

John Parducci was the first local to bottle Zinfandel on its own, in the 1940s. Other early Zin pioneers include grower Charlie Barra; winemaker and organic grape-growing proponent Paul Dolan at Fetzer; the late Dr. Donald Edmeades in the Anderson Valley; and prolific winemaker Greg Graziano.

Edmeades winemaker Ben Salazar says geography is what makes Mendocino County such a great place to grow Zinfandel.

“The region’s proximity to the ocean means there’s a cooling maritime infl uence,” he says, “yet the coastal mountain range protects the area and allows for good heat accumulation during the day.”

Mendocino Zinfandel can offer aromas of ripe cherries and blueberries, intermingled with cocoa powder, toasted oak and roasted coffee. It can also be more classically briary, with blackberry and black raspberry fruit, softly textured hints of tobacco, vanilla and nutmeg, and a fi nish of black pepper. —V.B.

RECENT TOP-SCORING ZINS FROM MENDOCINO

90

Carol Shelton 2009 Wild Thing Zinfandel

(Mendocino); $19.

90

Edmeades 2010 Zinfandel (Mendocino);

$20.

89

Woodenhead 2009 Guido Venturi Zinfandel

(Mendocino); $34.

Other recommended producers: Artezin, Bonterra,

Chiarito, Graziano, Horse & Plow, McFadden Vineyard, Navarro,

Paul Dolan, Saracina

WineMag.com | 45

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HILE THE PROFILES BELOW CELEBRATE FOUR NOTABLE WOMEN MAKING STRIDES IN THE SPIRITS INDUSTRY, THEY ARE FAR FROM THE ONLY ONES OUT THERE. Around the world, a growing

number of women are involved with all aspects of making spirits—creating, distilling, blending, consulting and managing these businesses.

“There are a lot of amazing women in the spirits industry,” says Maggie Campbell, head distiller at Ipswich, Massachusetts-based Privateer Rum, who lists Rachel Barrie and Joy Spence as “my heroes.”

A small but infl uential group of women rose to key positions during the 1990s and early 2000s. That group has expanded signifi cantly in the last few years, particularly as interest in artisan distilling has grown.

Other notables include Joanne Moore, master distiller of Bloom London Dry Gin in the U.K.; Melanie Asher, who makes Macchu Pisco in Peru; Katia Espirito Santo, of Brazil’s Avua Cachaça; Sonja Kassebaum at Chicago’s North Shore Distillery; and Laura Dierks, managing partner at Brooklyn’s Van Brunt Stillhouse.

Groups like LOAD (Ladies of American Distilleries) share knowledge and create community.“As in math and sciences, the more young women see other women succeeding, the more they can see

themselves being here—and the more likely we are to see the best distillers,” Campbell says. “We want to inspire the next generation of great distillers, whoever they happen to be.”

These fearless females create some

of the world’s favorite spirits.

B Y K A R A N E W M A N

WineMag.com | 47

Bowmore’s

Rachel Barrie

THE JAMAICAN-BORN SPENCE SAYS HER JOURNEY TOWARD BECOMING THE WORLD’S FIRST FEMALE MASTER BLENDER BEGAN AT 13 YEARS OLD, WHEN A BELOVED TEACHER SPARKED HER INTEREST IN CHEMISTRY AND SCIENCE.

Spence attended the University of the West Indies before she moved to England to pursue a Masters of Science degree in Analytical Chemistry at Loughborough University.

After graduation, Spence returned to Jamaica and lectured at the College of Arts Sci-ence and Technology (now renamed as the University of Technology). She then worked as a research and development chemist with Tia Maria liqueur.

Yet, the high-energy Spence—“I love to dance,” she says—soon grew restless working with a single product, and noticed the furor of activity at adjacent Appleton Estates.

“I used to sit and look across the fence,” she says. “I would think, ‘Oh my gosh—so many tankers rolling in and out—that place seems very interesting.’ So I sent in my résumé.”

Spence was hired as chief chemist in 1981, working closely with then-Master Blender Owen Tulloch. She assumed the role in 1997.

Compared to those early years of gazing across the fence, her hectic, wide-ranging role now encompasses aspects of production (developing new rums and blends and ensuring the quality of existing products) as well as marketing, traveling the world to promote Appleton Estates.

Now, she says, “My job is complex, and I defi nitely do not get bored.”

The Product

Appleton Estate 12-Year-Old Rum

For sipping or cocktails, this aged rum features rounded caramel fl avor, with lots of

spice and touches of almond and dried fruit.

abv: 43% Price: $40

THE YOUNGEST OF THE WOMEN PROFILED HERE AND THE ONLY ONE TO START HER OWN BUSINESS, Firtle, a Queens native, earned an MBA from SUNY-Binghamton and entered the world of fi nance. She started her career analyzing corporate distillers and brewers for a hedge fund.

Inspired by a TED talk and mentored by craft distillers across the country who taught her how to make spirits, Firtle wrote a business plan, quit her job, gave up her Manhattan apartment and leased an industrial space in Brooklyn’s Bushwick neighborhood. She named her distillery The Noble Experiment NYC—a tongue-in-cheek appropriation of a euphemism for Prohibition.

The fi rst—and for now, only—product is Owney’s Rum, a crisp white rum made from domestic molasses, named for the bootlegger behind Harlem’s famed Cotton Club. An aged rum is in the works, but that’s at least two years away.

“My goal is to bring rum back to New York, back to the Northeast, and maybe back to the country one day,” she says.

In the meantime, the distillery’s tasting room, where Prohibition-era photos and the chandelier’s yellow glow evoke a dimly lit speakeasy, opened for afternoon tours and tastings in November 2012.

The Product

Owney’s NYC Rum

This crisp, appealing white rum lends itself to

mixing up daiquiris, Papa dobles and other

cocktails.

abv: 40% Price: $35


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Owner/Distiller, The Noble

Experiment,Brooklyn

JOY SPENCEMaster Blender,

Appleton Estates Rum, Jamaica

“I WAS BORN JUST A FEW MILES FROM THE [GLEN GARIOCH] DISTILLERY,” IN SCOT-LAND’S HIGHLANDS, SAYS BARRIE. “I used to go out and run through the fi elds of barley, with that wonderful spicy scent in the air.”

So perhaps it was only a matter of time before she would make Scotch whisky, becoming master blender in 2003.

In addition to overseeing releases from Bowmore, an Islay Scotch with a smoky, broody profi le, she also works with the Glen Garioch and Auchen-toshan bottlings.

Upon earning a chemistry degree from the University of Edinburgh, Bar-rie became a research scientist at the Scotch Whisky Institute. That interview process required her to identify more than 20 different fragrances.

Barrie credits her keen sense of smell for helping make the key deci-sions that shepherd Scotches from grain to bottle.

“If I hadn’t been in whisky, I’d be in perfume,” she says.

She then embarked on a lengthy stint with Glenmorangie, where she fi rst be-came a master blender. Barrie joined Bowmore in 2011.

Neither the notoriously blustery Scottish weather nor whisky making are kind to shrinking violets. Although she appears polished, Barrie surely has a tough side. It’s served her well through 20-plus years in the whisky business—not to mention as a mother to three sons and collector of motorcycles, with nine bikes at last count.

The Product

Glen Garioch Founder’s Reserve

Pronounced “Glen Geery,” this is an excellent example of a Highland Scotch, with vibrant notes of honey, heather and spice, and just the faintest hint of smoke.abv: 45% Price: $45

TRICHET IS WELL AWARE THAT SHE’S PREPARING A LEGACY FOR FUTURE GENERATIONS.

The daughter of a winegrower, Trichet grew up in southwest France, where she devel-oped a great love for nature and a strong interest in science. After studying biochemistry and biological analysis in Toulouse, Trichet arrived at Rémy-Martin 35 years ago, taking a research position to study how Cognac is made.

In 1993, she joined the prestigious “tasting committee,” where she worked with then-Cellar Master Georges Clot, becoming his apprentice in 2000. She succeeded him in 2003.

She remembers fi nishing the fi nal blend for Louis XIII—a particularly high-end line, made from carefully selected casks—the year she became cellar master.

“You remember that moment when you fi nish,” she says. Even with her words parsed by a translator, Trichet comes across as thoughtful and soft-spoken, even stoic.

“There’s a fear—there’s an emotional moment,” she says. “You’re working with the fruit of the work of previous generations.”

She refers to herself as a steward, preserving barrels of eau de vie (the term used for Cognac while still in the barrel) for future generations to discover.

“It takes 100 years to complete the process,” she says.Trichet says she’s learned much over the course of her career.“Like eau de vie, you improve and mellow over the years.”

The Product

Rémy Martin 1738 Accord Royal Cognac

The $22,000 bottle of Rémy Martin’s Louis XIII Rare Cask is predictably amazing, but out of the price range for most of us. The 1738 Accord Royal is a more affordable splurge, blended for aromatic intensity, with bold toffee, orange peel and chocolaty tones.abv: 40% Price: $55


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Cellar Master, Rémy Martin Cognac,

France

RACHEL BARRIE

Master Blender, Morrison Bowmore,

Scotland

WineMag.com | 53

frown fl ickers across the face of hunter smith as we near the interchange. Despite recent advice to the contrary, it’s apparent that the highway from Margaret River to Frankland River is closed for roadwork.

Without missing a beat, Smith—part of the family that owns Frankland Estate winery—swings his bulky Holden Colorado SUV onto the partially

paved secondary road that we’ll follow instead.At times a single dirt track, it widens as we approach hillocks so

we can move left and avoid oncoming traffi c. There isn’t any. We bounce along, taking care not to drop too much of our “brekkie burgers”—scrambled

eggs, thickly sliced bacon and barbecue sauce—in our laps. Outside the car, vast open spaces and scrublands scarred by bushfi res zip past, along with the occasional bodies of unfortunate marsupials.

Behind us, a reddish haze of kicked-up dirt traces our path. Far from the country’s teeming mining regions and the coast’s bustling cosmopolitan cities, this is a very different Australia.

Here, in the southwestern corner of Western Australia, although vines were planted by some of the original settlers in the mid 19th century, grape growing and winemaking are uncommon and relatively recent pursuits, born of a few prescient individuals’ vision and nurtured by the backbreaking labor of others.

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Western Pioneers

The fi rst visionary to arrive was Harold Olmo, a professor at the University of California at Davis. As part of a program to diversify the state’s economy, he was invited by the gov-ernment of Western Australia to prospect for sites that could support viticulture.

His report, published in 1956, identi-fi ed Frankland River, Margaret River and Mount Barker as areas capable of producing European-style table wines.

Next up was John Gladstones, a Western Australian agronomist specializing in lupines. A wine lover, he carried out painstaking climatic research that quantifi ed the similari-ties between Margaret River and Bordeaux in terms of heat summation and distribution.

Published in 1965, Gladstones’s work didn’t exactly ignite a land rush, but Tom Cullity planted Vasse Felix’s fi rst vines in 1967. Over the next decade, other pioneering vintners—including one Robert Mondavi—followed Cullity.

Mondavi found his way to Margaret River in 1973, when he tried to purchase property there from Dennis Horgan. But Horgan, a Perth businessman who had acquired the property along with a plumbing business in 1969, refused to sell.

He did meet with Mondavi, and the two entered a brief partnership in which Mondavi provided consulting services as Horgan developed Leeuwin Estate into a vineyard and winery.

“I was a beer-drinking surfi e,” says Horgan. “We just got on well.”Other early Margaret River wineries include Cape Mentelle (estab-

lished 1970), Cullen (1971) and Moss Wood (1969). All continue to produce high-quality wines. Steadily, a region once known for its natural beauty, surfer lifestyle and perennially high unemployment transformed into a burgeoning wine destination.

Modern Margaret River

Today, Margaret River is Western Australia’s most renowned wine region, stretching approximately 60 miles from north to south between Cape Naturaliste and Cape Leeuwin. Surrounded on three sides by water, the climate is moderated by the adjoining oceans.

The warm waters of the Indian Ocean lap at the northern and western shores, while the cold Southern Ocean growls up from the south.

“It’s a Mediterranean climate with a maritime infl uence,” says Virginia Willcock, who has been the winemaker at Vasse Felix since 2006.

Margaret River’s subregions—delineated in 1999 by Gladstones based on climate and drainage basin—remain unoffi cial, but are referenced often by winemakers.

Along the western coast, from north to south, lie Yallingup, Wilyabrup, Wallcliffe and Karridale. Just to the east lie Carbunup, in the north, and Treeton, in the center.

Most of the original vineyards lie in the Wilyabrup and Wallcliffe subregions, where Cabernet Sauvigon and Chardonnay thrive.

“Wilyabrup is chocolate-rich,” says Rob Mann, senior winemaker and estate director of Cape Mentelle, speaking about Cabernet Sauvignon. “Further south is more structured and red-fruited.”

“Cabernet is at home in Margaret River,” says Vanya Cullen, who runs her family winery in accor-

The Best of Great Southern

Very few of Great Southern’s wines are widely distributed in the United States. These are my favorites of the wines that are.

92 Frankland Estate 2012 Isolation Ridge Vineyard

Riesling (Frankland River). Vibrant citrus, laser focus and an electric fi nish. Cellar Selection. Quintessential Wines.abv: 11.4% Price: $40

91 Plantagenet 2010 Chardonnay (Mount Barker).

Plushly styled. Editors’ Choice. Old Bridge Cellars.abv: 13.5% Price: $21

90 West Cape Howe 2009 Book Ends Cabernet

Sauvignon (Great Southern). A velvety blend of cassis and mint. Editors’ Choice. The Vintner Group.abv: 14% Price: $21

A Merlot vineyard at Voyager Estate, Margaret River

Organically farmed vines at Settlers Ridge, Margaret River

Other top producers: Galafrey, Harewood Estate, Trevelen Farm, Wignalls

WineMag.com | 55

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dance to biodynamic principles. “It just grows so easily.”While most growers agree that Cabernet is the region’s easiest grape,

it hasn’t always been smooth sailing. Back in the early 1990s, says Cliff Royle, general manager and chief winemaker for Flametree Wines, the Cabernets were relatively low in alcohol and often a bit green.

In the late ’90s, the pendulum swung the other direction, and many of the wines were high in alcohol, with stewed fruit fl avors. Today, the moderate alcohol levels and ripe fl avors so prevalent in the region can be attributed to better viticulture and site selection.

“The best, most consistent vineyards are in a very small area,” says Royle.

That said, winemakers often source fruit from several different subregions. Stuart Pym, production manager and senior winemaker for Stella Bella, manages 225 acres of vineyards in six locations, all south of the town of Margaret River.

“Red wines from this part of Margaret River are fi ner wines, with a bit more perfume and elegance,” he says.

At the extreme southern end of Margaret River, in Karridale, most of the vineyards are devoted to white grape varieties because of the dramatic cooling effects of the Southern Ocean. Yet, even here, there are exceptions.

Erl Happ grows 30 different varieties—21 of them red—and claims he’s “able to ripen all of them with ease.”

Pym’s Otro Vino—a blend of Touriga Nacional and Tinta Cão and bottled under Stella Bella’s Skuttlebutt label—

comes from Happ’s vineyard and supports his conclusion. It offers a juicy mouthful of medium-bodied blueberry fruit tinged with spice.

One of the few wineries to prominently feature subregions on the wine labels, Cape Mentelle is making a blended red and a blended white labeled Wilyabrup and Wallcliffe, respectively.

“We’re trying to get people to go beyond the variety and talk about region, subregion and vineyard,” says Mann. “It’s getting back to those classical, terroir-based wines.”

Given the French ownership of Cape Mentelle—it’s been part of luxury group LVMH since 1990—this sentiment isn’t surprising. But most Western Australian wineries stick to varietal labeling.

MARGARET

RIVERThe regions’s pounding waves and golden beaches have made it a perennial stop on the professional surfi ng tour. Held every March, the Margaret River Pro event draws contestants from all over the world, like Hawaiian Carissa Moore, who won the women’s division in 2013. Visitors can rent boards and get lessons at several surf shops throughout the region.

Western Australia’s original wine

country was the warm Swan Valley,

known for its fortifi ed wines.

Swan District

Perth Hills

Peel

Geographe

Margaret River

Blackwood Valley

Manjimup

Pemberton

Great Southern

WORTHY PICKS

FROM OTHER

PARTS OF W.A.

Pemberton: Picardy

The original founders of Moss

Wood in Margaret River—Bill

and Sandra Pannell—moved to

Pemberton seeking fulfi llment of

their Burgundian longings.

Geographe: Capel Vale

This pioneering winery lies just

off the road linking Bunbury and

Margaret River. The Prattens

planted their fi rst vines in 1974.


Cabernet Sauvignon & BlendsSince Vasse Felix produced the region’s fi rst commercial Cabernet Sauvignon from the 1972 vintage, it’s been the mainstay. Because of the moderate climate, Margaret River Cabernets develop particularly silky tannin structures that set them apart.

But beware, says VF winemaker Virginia Willcock, “The bigger you try to make Cabernet, the uglier it can be.”

Vintages can be important for Cabernet, as it’s among the last of the varieties to be harvested, but recent years have been kind.

Keith Mugford at Moss Wood calls 2010, “one of the great Cabernet years in Margaret River.”

Fortunately, 2008 and 2011 are also excellent, with 2009 not far behind.

93 Vasse Felix 2009 Heytes-

bury (Margaret River). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Malbec, the 2009 Heytes-bury is a medium- to full-bodied wine with a taut line of acidity that accentuates its slightly drying tannins. Cassis and red currant notes predominate, but there’s ample complexity in the form of mint, cedar, leather and dusty earth. Drink 2018–2025. Negociants USA, Inc.abv: 14.5% Price: $74

92 Moss Wood 2008 Moss

Wood Vineyard Cabernet

Sauvignon (Margaret River). The Moss Wood Cabernets are typically full-bodied and rather lush, and the 2008 is no exception. The tannins are fully ripe, giving the impression of great suppleness in the mouth, while the fl avors blend plummy, fruity elements with meaty, savory ones. The fi nish is long and harmonious, suggesting ample longevity, although the wine is approachable now. Epi-curean Wines.abv: 14.5% Price: $101

91 Cape Mentelle 2010 Wily-

abrup (Margaret River).

Named for a Margaret River sub-region, Cape Mentelle’s Wilyabrup is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. It’s structured and restrained on the palate, easily blending cherry, cedar, leather and earth notes in a truly claret-styled wine whose dry fi nish picks up hints of black tea. Drink now–2020. Moët Hennessy USA.abv: 13.5% Price: $55

ShirazAustralia’s renowned red is often overlooked in Margaret River, but it’s capable of making medium-bodied, attractively spicy wines.

“They sit somewhere in the middle, between big South Australian styles and the über-hip, cool-climate styles coming out of Victoria,” says Stella Bella’s Stuart Pym.

“When it comes to Shiraz, I think the wines are serviceable,” says Flametree’s Cliff Royle, but he crafted a very good 2011 that’s not yet been imported.

Perhaps because of Margaret River’s identifi cation with Cabernet, few American importers are bringing in Shiraz, but here are some top examples that are available in the States.

89 Miles From Nowhere

2011 Best Blocks Shiraz

(Margaret River). Miles from Nowhere partner Franklin Tate’s family helped launch Evans & Tate to Margaret River stardom, but now this new venture is poised to take off. This full-bodied yet crisp Shiraz features

vibrant, dark berry and cherry fruit framed by subtle vanilla and toast shadings. It’s solid from start to fi nish, and the regular Shiraz bottling is a Best Buy. International Vines, Inc.abv: 14% Price: $18

89 Skuttlebutt 2009 Shiraz-

Cabernet (Margaret River).

Skuttlebutt is a second tier in Stella Bella’s range that can represent excellent value. This blend shows some of Cabernet’s pungent leafi ness, but also plenty of Shiraz’s fruity volume to balance things out. The tannins are nicely supple and silky, with the wine’s various components in elegant harmony. It’s ready to drink now. EditorsÕ Choice. Stella Bella Wines.abv: 14% Price: $16

88 Evans & Tate 2010 Metricup

Road Shiraz (Margaret

River). This bottling offers concentrated fruit, nicely accented by hints of cedar and mocha. The tart, mixed-berry fl avors are crisp and mouthwatering, culminating in a dusting of cocoa

powder on the fi nish. EditorsÕ Choice.

Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits.abv: 14.5% Price: $15

ChardonnayAlthough Margaret River was first perceived as an analogue to Bordeaux, Chardonnay thrives throughout almost the entire region, from Wilyabrup right down through Karridale.

Styles range from the full-bodied, tropical-fruit end of the spectrum epitomized by Leeuwin Estate to the leaner, more refined pineapple and smoke shadings of Cullen. Both have their place—the fi rst is more shrimp on the barbie with your boisterous mates; the second evokes white tablecloths and quiet romance.

From vintage to vintage, Chardonnay is probably Margaret River’s most consistent performer.

93 Cullen 2010 Kevin John

Chardonnay (Margaret

River). One of Australia’s leading Chardonnays, this is wonderfully mouthfi lling and fl eshy, yet remains

margaret river wine

styles

WineMag.com | 57

Frankland River

One obvious exception is Frankland Estate’s Olmo’s Reward, a Bordeaux-inspired blend of Cabernet Franc and Merlot, named for the pioneering American professor.

Barry Smith—Hunter’s father—came out to Frankland River 40 years ago as a farmer, when the only vineyard in the region was a research plot on a neighboring property.

“We saw the quality of the fruit they were getting next door and fi gured we’d diversify a bit,” says Barry.

His wife, Judy, is less matter of fact: “When we came here, we were seduced by the Rieslings from our neighbors,” she says.

And it is Frankland River’s Rieslings that have put—and kept—the region on the map. While the Bordeaux varieties can be excellent and the Shiraz is consistently good, the Rieslings show the most distinction.

“They have a wet stone, mineral characteristic that we see in a lot of the wines from the region,” says Hunter.

Frankland Estate now bottles three single-vineyard dry Rieslings and a “kabinett”-style Riesling, all of which have the ability to age elegantly for 10 years or more.

Mount Barker

Frankland River is just one subzone within the sprawling Great Southern appellation, or Geographic Indication (G.I.) as they’re known in Australia. Nearby Mount Barker is another one, with slightly warmer temperatures.

Nevertheless, says Cath Oates, winemaker for Mount Barker’s Plantagenet Wines, “Cool climate is what Great Southern is all about.”

Oates is originally from Margaret River, so she’s in a unique position to compare the regions.

“Stylistically, Margaret River is bolder and more voluptuous,” she says, speaking about Cabernet. “It’s that classic cassis. Here, we’re briary and red currants.”

But, she says, “Shiraz was one of the big drawing cards to come here.”Plantagenet’s Shirazes are plummy and rich, with deep mocha shadings

but plenty of savory spice, and bright acids that make them surprisingly versatile at the table.

Other parts of Great Southern producing notable wines include Porongurup, Albany and Denmark. Albany and Denmark are both on the coast, more exposed to the cooling infl uence of the Southern Ocean and more susceptible to untimely rain events.

Based on the limited tastings I had time for while visiting Albany, the coastal subregions seem to do well with Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Pinot Noir also shows potential.

“Great Southern isn’t a Pinot Noir district,” says Rob Wignall, before pouring me a taste of his very good 2010 Pinot Noir from Albany, redolent of cherry and beetroot. It’s deep and spicy, just a little coarse on the fi nish.

“The introduction of Burgundian clones has been the biggest thing,” says Harewood Estate’s James Kellie. His 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir, grown near Denmark, blows me away with its combination of delicate fl oral notes and sublime silkiness.

It’s a tasting experience that makes me realize how little we know about viticulture and the potential for great wines in this far-off corner of the world. And the resulting smile isn’t just because this wine is so good, but because of how many other great wines are still out there in Western Australia, waiting to be grown, made and discovered.

cool and sophisticated. Buttery, toasty and nutty notes accent grilled peach and pineapple fl avors, all pulled together on the fi nish by a refreshing squeeze of lime-driven citrus. Old Bridge Cellars.abv: 13.5% Price: $109

93 Leeuwin Estate 2009

Art Series Chardonnay

(Margaret River). Leeuwin’s 2009 is a worthy successor to the fl amboyant 2008. While perhaps just a touch more restrained in aroma and fl avor despite being higher in alcohol, it still shows off fl ashy notes of grilled peach and pineapple. As always, it’s full bodied and luscious without being overblown, and has a lingering fi nish. Old Bridge Cellars.abv: 14.5% Price: $89

91 Vasse Felix 2010

Heytesbury Chardonnay

(Margaret River). Surprisingly full bodied, lush and expansive given its moderate alcohol level, this is a whirlwind of tropical fruit and

buttered nuts on the nose, then grows more refi ned and understated on the palate, where the fl avors are white peach, melon and citrus. Negociants USA, Inc.abv: 13% Price: $49

Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon BlendsKeeping in line with the region’s propensity to mirror Bordeaux, this is the white counterpart to the Cabernet blends. Unfortunately, most of them are signifi cantly less successful.

That’s not to say they’re bad wines—they just tend to lack the layers of texture found in good white Graves. Instead, they end up tasting more like lemon water—refreshing on a hot summer day, but not much more.

They’re still very successful in Australia, but the amounts coming to the U.S. have slowed to almost nothing. These are three of the best examples reviewed recently.

89 Cape Mentelle 2012

Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon

(Margaret River). This wine shows an intriguing touch of fl inty, fumé character as well as ample melon and fi g fruit. It’s reasonably full-bodied and textured for a wine of its ilk, but for a more exciting example, visit the winery to taste the limited-production Wallcliffe bottling. Moët Hennessy USA.abv: 12.5% Price: $16

88 Moss Wood 2011 Ribbon

Vale Vineyard Semillon-

Sauvignon Blanc (Margaret River).

This blend shows decent weight and texture, along with elegant aromas and fl avors of scorched citrus peel and grapefruit. It’s long and mouthwatering on the oak-free fi nish, making it a versatile food companion. The 2012 looks to be even better. Epicurean Wines.abv: 13% Price: $27

88 Robert Oatley 2012

Sauvignon Blanc (Margaret

River). It’s not a blend, but this varietally labeled Sauvignon Blanc sourced from the southern portion of Margaret River is delightfully clean, crisp and refreshing. Nectarine, pineapple and citrus fl avors mingle easily on the medium-bodied palate. Robert Oatley Vineyards Inc.abv: 12.5% Price: $20

For more reviews of Margaret River wines, please turn to page 92.


lmost since the beginning, Pinot Noir has been Oregon’s claim to fame—it’s now an internationally known calling card. It has also stood apart, isolated and alone.

For Willamette Valley winemakers, that has posed a challenge. What is Pinot Noir’s natural companion? Must it be Chardonnay, as in Burgundy?

The state does boast some excellent Chardonnays. Rieslings, too, which thrive in the cool climate. But the white companion grapes Oregon vintners are embracing are Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc, both mutations of Pinot Noir.

After nearly 50 years, it would seem long overdue for Pinot Gris to claim its rightful place. Eyrie’s David Lett brought Pinot Gris up to Oregon in 1966—a total of 160 cuttings taken from the only four vines in the collection at University of California at Davis.

In 1970, Lett made the fi rst commercial Pinot Gris in America. More than a decade passed before Dick Ponzi made the state’s next Pinot Gris, in 1981.

B Y P A U L G R E G U T T

WineMag.com | 59

“Oregon Pinot Gris still had no audience to speak of,” Ponzi says.It took another decade or two of slow, steady growth—in

vineyard acres and producers—before the grape variety gained recognition.

Even now, identity problems remain. Should it be labeled Pinot Gris or Pinot Grigio? Is there a stylistic difference between the two? Isn’t it time to promote Oregon Pinot Gris, and break free of references to Old World names and styles?

The history of Pinot Blanc in Oregon is even more tangled and confusing. The fi rst wave of plantings in the Willamette Valley turned out to be mislabeled. What was thought to be Pinot Blanc was actually Melon de Bourgogne—the grape of Muscadet.

Genuine Pinot Blanc cuttings went into the ground in the early 1990s. Eyrie was again in the forefront, although demand was light.

Jason Lett recalls that for years he made about 500 cases annually. Recently, he’s been scrambling to make more, as consumer interest has picked up.

When tasting large fl ights of both wines, clear varietal differ-ences emerge.

Generally, Oregon Pinot Blancs are less fl eshy than Pinot Gris. But the Pinot Blancs show more minerality, accompanied by bracing acidity, citrus fruit and lightly peppery highlights.

Although both varieties thrive in the Willamette Valley, they offer different fl avor profi les that clearly refl ect vintage character.

In 2011, a cool vintage, Pinot Blanc shines with fresh, fl oral notes and bracing minerality. In 2012, a much warmer vintage, the rich, round, fl eshy fruit fl avors of Pinot Gris are at their best.

Either way, they’re winning propositions.


TO

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Pinot BlancThe first true Pinot Blancs were made in Oregon in the late 1980s by Cameron and Adelsheim.

Vineyard acreage is tiny, only reaching 160 acres in 2011, according to the National Agricultural Statistics Service. Dozens of producers make at least a few barrels of the wine, however, and it seems to have special appeal to young winemakers and sommeliers.

“At fi rst, I was a little confused as to how to differentiate it from our Pinot Gris. Dad [the late David Lett] told me to just make it the perfect oyster wine—very dry, very crisp. That’s

where I see it going,” says Eyrie’s Jason Lett.Thibaud Mandet, winemaker at WillaKenzie

Estate, has worked with Pinot Blanc for more than a decade—it’s his favorite white wine. He gives it high marks for “versatility, brightness and aromatics.”

“If I have to open one single white wine in my cellar to show my friends,” he says, “I open Pinot Blanc.”

Scott Minge, who manages the Paulée Restaurant in Dundee, is another advocate.

“Where I think the Willamette truly shines stylistically is with Pinot Blanc,” he says. “It seems to be more interesting and complex than Pinot Gris.”

Tasting several dozen Pinot Blancs from the 2011 and 2012 vintage, some general charac-teristics emerge.

The best open with a whiff of honeysuckle, citrus—often grapefruit—and green apple, and have vivid acidity. There may be hints of white pepper or almond. Generally, they’re fermented entirely in stainless steel, and the alcohol levels range from 12–13%.

Estate-grown and single-vineyard examples are often higher quality than those made from purchased grapes or blended versions.

Drink these wines cool, but not so cold as to kill the aromatics or deaden the fi nish.

Some can’t-miss food matches are shellfi sh, light freshwater fi sh and poultry. For elegance, purity of fl avor, fl oral aromatics and under-lying minerality, select a 2011 example. For a rounder, fruitier style, look for a 2012.

Three Top Pinot Blancs

92 Bethel Heights 2012 Pinot Blanc (Eola-

Amity Hills). This estate-grown offering was a standout among several dozen tasted for this arti-cle. It’s loaded with bright fruit fl avors of grapefruit and pear, and even in the ripe 2012 vintage, it main-tains the trademark minerality and a detailed, focused fi nish. abv: 13.3% Price: $18

91 Ken Wright 2011 Pinot Blanc (Willa-

mette Valley). Barrel fermented in neu-tral French oak, this mouthwatering Pinot Blanc uses fruit from the Meredith Mitchell and Freedom Hill vineyards. It rested on the lees until bottling, yielding a rich, even creamy wine, with a gentle spiciness and plenty of acidity. A hint of beeswax and the lightest suggestion of toast bring more interest to the fi nish. EditorsÕ Choice.

abv: 12.5% Price: $24

90 The Eyrie Vineyards 2011 Pinot Blanc

(Dundee Hills). Distinctive aromas of bees-wax and bee pollen continue with similar fl avors, wrapped around tart yellow apple fruit. It’s lovely, fra-grant and ageworthy, in a high-acid European mold, but give it plenty of time to breathe. Decanting is a good idea. EditorsÕ Choice.

abv: 12.5% Price: $17

Other Recommended Pinot Blanc

Producers: Adelsheim, Apolloni, Cana’s Feast,

Chehalem, David Hill, ENSO, Erath, Foris, Four

Graces, J. Scott Cellars, Ponzi, St. Innocent, Thistle,

Walter Scott, WillaKenzie, Wine By Joe, Witness

Tree

WineMag.com | 61

Pinot GrisOregon’s Pinot Gris production began to climb in the early 1990s, as vineyard acreage increased (up almost 50% between 1989 and 1990). It’s now the second-most planted variety (red or white) in the state, still well behind Pinot Noir, but at more than twice the acreage of third-place Chardonnay.

Look for luscious fl avors of fresh-cut pear, often with a dusting of cinnamon, minimal (if any) exposure to new oak and brisk acidity. The current trend is toward terroir-driven wines with little or no residual sugar.

King Estate has been the industry leader with this variety, and farms its 314 acres organically. It also purchases grapes from other growers, pushing overall production over 100,000 cases annually. It’s the producer consumers are most likely to encounter.

Other volume producers include A to Z, Erath, Ponzi and Rainstorm. Whether it’s fermented in stainless steel or neutral oak, Oregon Pinot Gris is a mouthfi lling, textural wine, generously fruity and with a healthy fruit-acid balance.

Match it with salmon and halibut, of course, but also roast poultry or rabbit, and spicy foods like jerk chicken or curry.

Three Top Pinot Gris

90 Ponzi 2012 Pinot Gris (Willamette Val-

ley). A fi ne effort in 2012, this clean and fresh Pinot Gris impresses with crisply defi ned fl avors of ji-cama, white peach, pineapple and honeydew melon. Flavors are persistent and lightly kissed with vanilla through a lingering, lively fi nish.abv: 13.2% Price: $17

90 Rainstorm 2012 Pinot Gris (Oregon).

Spicy and intense, this excellent Pinot Gris is loaded with Gravenstein apple, cut pear and a taste of orange peel. Surprising length and power for a Euro-pean-styled wine, with modest alcohol. Best Buy.

abv: 12.5% Price: $14

90 Walnut City WineWorks 2012 Pinot

Gris (Willamette Valley). All-stainless fer-mented, this fl avorful Pinot Gris displays fl eshy, ripe pear fruit fl avors, with a light dusting of cinnamon spice. It’s simply delicious and ready for drinking right now. Best Buy.

abv: 13.3% Price: $15

Other Recommended Pinot Gris Producers:

Adelsheim, Anne Amie, Carabella, Château Bianca,

Coeur de Terre, Cristom, David Hill, Eight Bells, The

Eyrie Vineyards, Hawks View, King Estate, Lachini

Vineyards, Lange, Lujon, Oak Knoll, Pudding River,

Raptor Ridge, Rex Hill, Seven Hills, Soléna, Spindrift

Cellars, Terrapin Cellars, Westrey For top Pinot-and-food pairings, visit winemag.com/oregonother.

JEWISH WINE AND FOOD HAVE GONE UPSCALE IN

A MAJOR WAY. WITH APOLOGIES TO BUBBIES

EVERYWHERE, HERE’S HOW TO MASTER THIS

MOUTH-WATERING GOURMET TREND. B Y J A N E T F O R M A N • P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y D A V I D M A L O S H

As the Jewish High Holy days approach, forget the sweet Kedem or Manischewitz.

There’s a whole new crop of kosher wines landing on top restaurant wine lists not simply

for their sacred status but on merit alone. Some of the best are out of Israel, where

the trend is high acid, blended and food friendly. Made by indie-minded winemakers,

these young guns are shifting from traditional Baron Rothschild’s

fi rst Bordeaux vines to spunky Mediterranean varietals

that thrive in Israel’s extreme climate.

Kosher food is turning just as edgy with chefs taking

the same farm-to-table tack as their gentile peers;

after all, fresh fruits and vegetables are kosher.

Here are a few kosher dishes and pairings

that represent the new face of this crowd-

pleasing cuisine that’s steeped in a rich

culture and tradition.

The traditions are

ancient, but the

menu is all new.


Smoked Turkey Latkes

with Spiced Apple Compote

Recipe courtesy Zeke Wray, executive chef at Bistro at Canyons in Park City, Utah

THE LATKES

1 medium onion

3 pounds russet potatoes (about 6)

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice1∕2 pound smoked turkey (meat only, shredded)1∕3 cup all-purpose fl our

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon pepper

3 large eggs, lightly beaten

About 1 cup vegetable oil, for frying

Preheat oven to 200˚F. Cut the onion lengthwise to fi t in the tube of a food processor, then grate with the medium shredding disk. Transfer the onion to a large bowl. (Do not clean processor.) Peel the potatoes and put them in a bowl of cold water. Cut the potatoes lengthwise to fi t in the processor’s tube, then grate and add to onions. Toss with the lemon juice and shredded smoked turkey, then with the fl our, salt and pepper. Add the eggs and stir to coat. Transfer to a colander set over a bowl. (Potatoes will release their juices.)

Heat ¼ inch of oil to 360˚F in a 12-inch heavy skillet over medium heat. Using a ¼-cup measure, scoop 4 or 5 mounds of potato mixture into skillet. Flatten with a fork to form 3½- to 4-inch pancakes. Cook until golden brown, 2½ to 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a paper-towel-lined baking sheet and keep warm in the oven while making more latkes. Makes 24 latkes.

THE APPLE COMPOTE 1∕3 cup sugar

1 vanilla bean, halved1∕8 tablespoon brandy 1∕2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1∕8 teaspoon ground cloves 1∕8 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1 pinch salt

8 golden delicious apples, peeled, cored

and cubed

In a large saucepan, combine 2 cups of water with the sugar, vanilla bean, brandy, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg and salt. Boil gently until the sugar is dissolved and the mixture thickens slightly. Add the apples and return to a boil. Lower heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the apples are very tender and the mixture thickens, about 20 minutes. Remove from heat and remove the vanilla beans. Let cool to room temperature before serving with the latkes.

Pair It:

Hagafen 2011 Devoto

Vineyard White Riesling

(Lake County)

The Riesling grape has a nuanced

petrol smokiness that dovetails

nicely with the smoked turkey, as

well as spiced-apple fruit fl avors

that fl atter the apple compote,

says Sean Marron, a Salt Lake

City-based sommelier and former

beverage director at Canyons. “The

wine’s natural food affi nity—being

relatively low in alcohol, high in

acidity and without oak—offers a

palate-cleansing effect that contrasts

the bold fl avors of the caramelized

onions,” says Marron.

Pair It:

Ramot Naftaly 2010

Cabernet Sauvignon

(Kedesh Valley)

This dry, dark purple wine,

with a hint of tobacco, is

from Israel’s Kedesh Valley, in

the Upper Galilee bordering

Lebanon. Barrel-aged for 24

months, it’s the kind of full-

bodied red that can stand up to

but not overpower the brisket.

The Modern-Day Brisket


Pair It:

Herzog 2012 Late Harvest

Orange Muscat (California)

“I love the pairing of fennel and

orange, which I try to mimic with

the star anise and Orange Muscat,”

says Garcia. “This wine has hints of

pineapple and passion fruit which

complement the dish and add com-

plexity. The light fi nish adds bright-

ness without overpowering the

delicacy of the fruit.”

WineMag.com | 67

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Modern-Day BrisketRecipe courtesy Todd Gray and Ellen Kassoff Gray, owners of Equinox Restaurant in Washington, D.C., and authors of The New Jewish Table (St. Martin’s Press, 2013).

2 tablespoons salt

1 tablespoon smoked paprika

1 tablespoon mustard seed

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 3-pound beef brisket, trimmed

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

2 sprigs fresh rosemary

2 sprigs fresh thyme

3 garlic cloves, crushed

1 carrot, chopped

1 small onion, chopped

1 quart veal stock

2 cups dry kosher red wine

(such as Cabernet Sauvignon)1∕2 cup balsamic vinegar

Preheat oven to 325˚F. In a small bowl, combine the salt, paprika, mustard seed and pepper. Rub the spice mix all over the brisket. Heat the oil in a large heavy skillet over medium-high heat and brown the brisket on both sides, turning once, 5–7 minutes per side.

Transfer the brisket to an ovenproof baking dish just large enough to hold it snugly and add the rosemary, thyme, garlic, chopped veg-etables, veal stock, wine and vinegar. Cover the dish with heavy-duty aluminum foil and bake until fork tender, approximately 3–4 hours. Transfer the brisket temporarily to a plate while you pour the liquid through a mesh strainer into a small saucepan, discarding the herbs, vegeta-bles and garlic. Wash and dry the baking dish.

Return the brisket to the clean baking dish. Place another heavy dish on top to press the brisket down. (To achieve the ideal weight of 2½ pounds, you may top it with canned goods.) Wrap the whole assemblage, weights and all, in tinfoil and refrigerate overnight.

Heat the strained braising liquid over medium flame until reduced to about 2½ cups and it has a glaze-like consistency, about 20 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste and refrigerate until ready to reheat the brisket.

To serve, cut the brisket into 3-inch cubes, irregular size is fi ne, and place in a pan large enough to hold pieces in a single layer. Pour in enough sauce to cover (you may need to add stock) and heat until warmed through, about 10 minutes. Spoon the brisket onto a serving platter and cover with sauce. Serves 6–8.

Quince and Apple CrustadaRecipe courtesy Gabe Garcia, head chef at Tierra Sur at Herzog Wine Cellars in Oxnard, California

THE CRUST

4 cups all-purpose fl our

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

11∕2 teaspoons salt

1 pound butter or margarine, chilled, cubed

cup ice-cold water

Combine all the dry ingredients and butter in a mixer bowl. Process at low speed to the size of large peas, then add cold water slowly until the dough starts to form. Mix another 30 seconds, then remove from mixer. Wrap with plastic and

chill in refrigerator for 1–24 hours.

THE FILLING 1∕2 cup granulated sugar

2 cups orange juice

2 pounds quince, washed, peeled, cored and

cut into 1∕4-inch-thick slices

3 strips of orange peel (2 inches long, no pith)

1 whole large star anise

2 pounds Golden Delicious apples, peeled,

cored and cut into 1∕4-inch-thick slices

1 large egg, beaten

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

Combine 2 cups of water with the sugar, orange juice, quince, orange peel and star anise in a pot. Slowly bring to a soft simmer. Cook covered for 30–40 minutes or until the quince is fork tender. Remove the quince and strain the liquid. Cool the quince and mix with the sliced apples. Reduce the liquid to a syrupy consistency and save for fi nishing sauce.

ASSEMBLE THE DISH

Place a piece of parchment paper on your rolling surface, then roll out the dough into a ¼-inch-thick circle or a rectangle. Spray a sheet pan with nonstick spray, then transfer the rolled dough to the sheet pan dough side down so the parchment paper is on top. Peel away the paper, and spread the quince and apple mix onto the dough, leaving a 3-inch border. Flip up the border and apply egg wash. Sprinkle with sugar.

Bake in 350–375˚F oven until golden brown, about 35–40 minutes. Serve either hot or cool with reduced syrup, vanilla ice cream or whipped cream. Serves 8–10.

What Makes a Wine Kosher?The techniques used during

kosher production are almost

identical to those used to

create other wine, there

are just a few more rules to

observe.

First, kosher wine can

only be handled by Sabbath-

observant Jews during the

entire winemaking process,

from harvesting of grapes

through fermentation and

bottling.

Interestingly, it’s not

necessary for the winemaker at

a kosher winery to be Jewish.

Many are not, they simply rely

on Jewish staffers to actually

handle the materials and

equipment.

Second, and most

obviously, all the ingredients

must be certifi ed kosher. While

the basic ingredients (like

grapes) are already kosher,

several modern-day items—

certain yeasts and animal-

based fi ning additives, such

as gelatin or isinglass—are

prohibited.

Third, tools and storage

facilities must remain kosher.

This means no offi cially

designated kosher equipment

can be used for the production

of non-kosher wine.

Fourth, all production must

be overseen by a mashgiach,

who ensures all is, well, kosher.

Fifth, if a kosher wine is

handled by a non-Jew, the

wine loses its sacred status—

unless the wine is mevushal.

The term, which literally means

“boiled,” refers to a kosher

wine that is heated, which

then preserves its kosher status

regardless of who handles it.

Heating wine can often

bring out those not-so-pleasing

raisiny, rubbery or stewed fruit

fl avors once found in many

old-school commerical kosher

wines. But thanks to recent

innovations in fl ash pasteuriza-

tion that lessen the impact on

the wine’s fl avor profi le, those

screw-face-inducing notes may

soon be a thing of the past.

—Lauren Buzzeo

CAMPAIGN FINANCED UNDER

CE REGULATION N. 1234/07

CAMPAGNA FINANZIATA AI SENSI

DEL REGOLAMENTO CE N. 1234/07

MIC

K R

OC

K / C

EPH

AS

September

BUYINGGUIDE

WineMag.com | 69

IN THIS MONTH’S GUIDE

The view from a vineyard in Columbia

Valley, Washington, with Oregon’s

Mt. Hood in the distance.

FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM

70 WASHINGTON

+ 139 more reviews online

84 CALIFORNIA


88 CHILE


90 AUSTRALIA


93 ISRAEL


95 AUSTRIA


97 GERMANY


98 PIEDMONT


100 SOUTHWEST FRANCE


101 SPIRITS


102 BEER


BAROLO BONANZAOver 100 reviews of Italy’s iconic wine

WEST COAST CABSCabernet Sauvignons from California and

Washington

CHILEAN RED WINESCabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère, Pinot Noir,

Merlot, Syrah and more

AUSTRIAN GOLDStunning white selections, with 60 rated

90-points or higher

ONLINE EXCLUSIVES

BUYINGGUIDE


CHARDONNAY

92 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2011 Cold Creek

Vineyard Chardonnay ( Columbia Valley ). For full review see page 73. Editors’ Choice . abv: 14.5% Price: $ 25

91 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2011 Ethos Re-

serve Chardonnay ( Columbia Valley ). For full review see page 74. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 30

91 Obelisco Estate 2011 Chardonnay ( Co-

lumbia Valley ). This was done half in stain-less and half in oak, and the blend is near perfect. Spicy and full-bodied, the peppery fruit is nicely set against a gentle backdrop of barrel toast. Cantaloupe, apple and papaya fl avors are in abundance, with a fi nish of toasted coconut. — P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $ 35

91 Woodinville Wine Cellars 2012 Unoaked

Conner Lee Vineyard Chardonnay ( Co-

lumbia Valley ). Designated unoaked, this fl avorful Chardonnay proves the grape has more going on than its reputation suggests, when sourced from a great vine-yard (such as Conner Lee) and carefully managed. Tex-tural with melon, pear, apple and light tropical infl uenc-es, this is long, complex and utterly delicious. Editors’ Choice . — P.G. abv: 14% Price: $ 25

90 àMaurice 2010 Conner Lee Vineyard

Chardonnay ( Columbia Valley ). Still youth-ful and showing a fair amount of barrel in the nose, this unfi ned and unfi ltered single-vineyard Chardonnay will

benefi t from another few years of cellaring. Fresh apple and peach fl avors anchor a solid mid palate. — P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 28

90 Barnard Griffi n 2011 Chardonnay ( Co-

lumbia Valley ). Another jazzy, Best Buy win-ner from Barnard Griffi n, this 2011 Chardonnay should be sipped to the tune of Harry Nilsson’s “Put The Lime In The Coconut,” which neatly captures the fl avors. Complex fruits, including apples, citrus—and yes, co-conut—add up to a wine both sleek and satisfying, with toasted almonds rounding out the fi nish. Best Buy . — P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $ 14

90 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2011 Indian Wells

Chardonnay ( Columbia Valley ). For full re-view see page 76. Editors’ Choice . abv: 13.5% Price: $ 17

90 Côte Bonneville 2010 Estate Bottled Du-

Brul Vineyard Chardonnay ( Yakima Val-

ley ). This estate-grown Chardonnay comes from one of the most expressive sites in the Yakima Valley. In this cooler vintage, it puts the accent on elegance. A judi-cious mix of apple, pear and peach fruit is matched with toasty accents from 100% barrel fermentation. — P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 50

88 AntoLin Cellars 2011 Gamache Vine-

yards Chardonnay ( Columbia Valley ).

This wine is showing excessive oakiness at the moment, but it’s so young that it could easily meld into the fruit with another few months in the bottle. Sharp and youth-ful, it has some real fruit power from the Gamache vine-yard grapes. Apple and citrus rind dominate, with a touch of butter in the fi nish. — P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $ 19

87 Gordon Estate 2012 Chardonnay ( Co-

lumbia Valley ). This is a solid, all-purpose Chardonnay, a bit less oaky and oily than some previ-ous efforts from Gordon, but showing fi rm, clean, ripe apple and pear fruit. The wine is balanced and smooth, delivering plenty of no-frills fruit fl avor for the price. — P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $ 16

87 Waterbrook 2011 Reserve Chardonnay

( Columbia Valley ). Aged in 68% new French oak, the barrel notes take center stage here with aromas of toast and spice. The palate is creamy and full with a viscous feel, tapering in concentration toward the fi n-ish. — S.S. abv: 13.65% Price: $ 15

VIOGNIER

92 àMaurice 2011 Viognier ( Columbia Val-

ley ). Here is a smooth and supple Viognier, with a dynamic mix of citrus and tropical fruits. It’s well-proportioned, and the phenolic edge to the skin fl avors gives nice structure to the fi nish. Editors’ Choice . — P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $ 25

92 Mark Ryan 2011 Viognier ( Columbia Val-

ley ). Here’s the latest in a long line of smooth, silky, fruit-laden Viogniers from Mark Ryan. Citrus and lemongrass roll into fl eshier fl avors of tree fruits. One month in neutral oak rounds out the mouthfeel, and the mix of vineyards—Ciel du Cheval, Red Willow and Ol-sen—is terrifi c. Editors’ Choice . — P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $ 30

Continued on Page 80

WASHINGTON

T here is no single, iconic grape associated with Washington. Unlike Oregon (Pinot Noir), Argentina (Malbec), New Zealand (Sauvignon Blanc) and other emerging New World wine producers, Washington

seems to make a bit of everything. To some, that’s confusing. Nonetheless, it’s time to acknowledge that this diversity is an asset. Think of Washing-ton in the same way you look at California. Different grapes thrive in dif-ferent parts of the state.

Within the vast Columbia Valley AVA are 10 other AVAs. As vineyards age, clones improve and plantings reach into higher (altitude and/or latitude) locations, specifi c strengths have emerged. In the new Ancient Lakes AVA, mineral-rich soils and cool temperatures produce Rieslings and Sauvignon Blancs of unusual clarity and precision. The heat of the Wahluke Slope AVA ripens Syrah beautifully, while in the rock-strewn Walla Walla Valley, the grape acquires a rich, umami fl avor.

Red Mountain is Cabernet country, while the Horse Heaven Hills produce stunning Merlots and Chardonnays. The Yakima Valley’s cool

sites bring snappy acidity to Rieslings and Chardonnays; the Rattlesnake Hills and Snipes Mountain AVAs, located within it, ripen Bordeaux grapes beautifully, without sacrifi cing their natural herbaceousness. And in the Columbia Gorge AVA, just outside the Columbia Valley’s boundary on the eastern fl anks of the Cascade Mountains, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris and Grüner Veltliner thrive.

None of these are one-trick-pony regions, and Washington viticulture is continuing to evolve, expand and explore. Specifi c grapes are particularly expressive in specifi c, well-defi ned sub-regions, and this bountiful diversity makes exploring Washington wines all the more interesting.

You’ll fi nd dozens of reviews from Washington State in this month’s Buying Guide, as well as selections from Australia, Austria, California, Chile, France, Germany, Israel and Italy. And, as always, be sure to check out our complete Buying Guide database at buyingguide.winemag.com for thousands more wine reviews.

Cheers! —PAUL GREGUTT

CELEBRATING THE DIVERSITY OF WASHINGTON STATE WINES

95 Gigi Rosso 2009 Arione ( Barolo ). Arione shows its Serralunga d’Alba pedigree via classic

aromas of black cherry, leather, truffl e and rose petal. The palate delivers lush wild-cherry fl avors and hints of truffl e, mint and the vineyard’s hallmark licorice. It’s beautifully balanced, with fi rm but ripe tannins and just enough freshness, and is simply a gorgeous Barolo. Wine 4 All . Editors’ Choice . — K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 49

95 Jarvis 2007 Estate Grown Cave Ferment-

ed Cabernet Sauvignon ( Napa Valley ).

Cabernet hardly gets richer or riper than this. The wine offers a huge blast of ripe and concentrated blackber-ries, cherries, cassis and mocha. The tannins are dense, yet soft and rich, while the acidity is just strong enough to support the structure. What a beauty. Lovely to drink now, and will develop over the next 10-plus years. Cel-lar Selection . — S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 130

94 Dunham 2011 Lewis Estate Vineyard

Riesling ( Columbia Valley ). As consistent as ever, this is sleek and stylish, with complex, layered fl avors of citrus rind, citrus fl esh and delicate tropical fruits. There are further highlights of honeycomb and dried apricot, and mouth-pleasing, underlying mineral-ity. Editors’ Choice . — P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 20

94 Dutton-Goldfi eld 2011 Dutton Ranch

Walker Hill Vineyard Chardonnay ( Green

Valley ). Another terrifi c 2011 Chardonnay from the winery. Grower Steve Dutton and winemaker Dan Goldfi eld together have negotiated the ups and downs of the chilly vintage to produce a crisp, smooth, elegant and, above all, delicious wine. It’s elaborate in oak-infl u-enced lemons, tropical fruits and sweet nectarines, with racy acidity that makes the mouth water. Drink now–2017. — S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 50

94 Joseph Phelps 2011 Freestone Vine-

yards Estate Grown Chardonnay ( So-

noma Coast ). What a roll Phelps has been on these past few cool vintages in this, its far Sonoma Coast vine-yard. The wine is bright in mouthwatering acidity, and tantalizing, with a subtle vein of lime, golden mango, or-ange zest and honeysuckle. Firm minerals are enriched by toasty oak. The alcohol is moderate. As delicious as this wine is, it should develop nicely over the next 5–6

years. Cellar Selection . — S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 55

94 L’Ecole No. 41 2010 Perigee Estate Sev-

en Hills Vineyard ( Walla Walla Valley ). A fi ve-grape Bordeaux-style blend from the estate vine-yard, this has lovely aro matics, as well as fi rm yet sup-ple tannins. The black fruits are dotted with details of licorice, black tea and coffee. It’s smooth and balanced through the lengthy fi nish, and continues to improve overnight, suggesting it also has serious aging potential. Cellar Selection . — P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 50

WineMag.com | 71

The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualifi ed tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editor Michael Schachner, Contributing Taster Andrew Hoover and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland, California Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Seattle.

If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials appear following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note refl ect the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo.

Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confi rmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.

TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS

All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group fl ights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered fl awed or uncustomary are retasted.

ABOUT THE SCORES

Ratings refl ect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.

Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; often good value. Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- critical circumstances.

Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 points) are not reviewed.

SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS

Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price with unique qualities that merit special attention.

Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.

Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specifi c guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less.

SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW

Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email [email protected]. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site.

LABELS

Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax 866.896.8786; or email [email protected].

Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at buyingguide.winemag.com


BUYINGGUIDE

94 MacPhail 2011 Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir

( Green Valley ). A great success, showing the airy silkiness of Pinot Noir, and the intensity of Russian River fruit. Waves of raspberries, cherries, red currants, licorice and bacon lead to a long fi nish of exotic baking spices. Bright with acidity, this does a great job of com-bining power and elegance. Drink now–2019. — S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 49

94 Produttori del Barbaresco 2008 Vigneti

in Muncagota Riserva ( Barbaresco ). This single-vineyard Barbaresco Riserva shows lovely fl oral and fruit scents of violet, iris, ripe berry and pressed powder. The palate is delicious, with black cherry, plum and spice uplifted by freshness and energizing miner-al notes. It has ample depth and balance, and while it’s drinking well now, it will also age for years. Vias Im-ports . Cellar Selection . — K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 62

94 Torbreck 2010 The Struie Shiraz ( Baros-

sa ). This is a terrifi cally full-bodied, lush Shiraz that nevertheless retains a sense of balance and freshness. Vaguely minty, herbal notes make a brief appearance, then give way to raspberry and blueberry fruit. Savory hints creep in on the palate, further increasing its ap-peal. This blend of fruit from the Barossa and Eden valleys should drink well through at least 2020. Wine Creek . Editors’ Choice . — J.C. abv: 15% Price: $ 50


ed Reserve Merlot ( Napa Valley ). As rich as Jarvis’s regular 2010 Merlot is, the Reserve is even bigger. It is, in a word, massive, offering a nuclear deto-nation of cherries, currants and mocha, even something sweetly meaty, like the charred fat on steak. At this ten-der age, it lacks subtlety. But it’s a complex, tannic wine that should develop well in the cellar. Give it 6–7 years. Cellar Selection . — S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $ 140


yards Estate Grown Pinot Noir ( Sonoma

Coast ). The parts haven’t fully come together yet in this ageable wine. It has mouthwatering acidity and vastly complex fl avors, ranging from ripe heirloom to-matoes, cola, pomegranates and cranberries, to ripe cherries and red currants. With fl avors of oak and some hard tannins, it’s a natural for the cellar. Hold for at least six years. Cellar Selection . — S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 55

93 Kilikanoon 2009 Blocks Road Cabernet

Sauvignon ( Clare Valley ). This is a dark, chocolaty Cabernet. It’s full bodied and richly textured, with plenty of fi rm structure to support the layers of cas-sis, plum pudding and mocha fl avors, then shows ample length to its velvety fi nish. Drink from 2015–2025. Old Bridge Cellars . Editors’ Choice . — J.C. abv: 14% Price: $ 30

93 Marimar Estate 2009 Don Miguel Vine-

yard Dobles Lias Unfi ltered Chardon-

nay ( Russian River Valley ). Marimar Estate held this bottling back for more than a year after their other three Chardonnays were released. The “Dobles Lias” designation refers to extended lees contact, which you can taste and feel in the palate’s exceptional creaminess. The yeasty sourness is balanced by rich oak (80% new) and tons of ripe apple, pear and tropical fruit fl avors. Very complex and satisfying, and will age for a few years. Drink now–2015. — S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $ 45


yard Earthquake Block Unfi ltered Pinot

Noir ( Russian River Valley ). This is an ageable ’09

Pinot from Marimar. With fi rm tannins, a burst of cit-rusy acidity and a great concentration of cherry and cur-rant fruit, it’s an obvious cellar candidate. Shows the consistent elegance and deft touch of Marimar’s Pinot Noirs. Cellar Selection . — S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $ 47

93 William Church 2010 Gamache Vine-

yards Malbec ( Columbia Valley ). The best bottle in a strong 2010 William Church lineup, this pure, single-vineyard Malbec is fl at-out lovely. Deep purple fruits—plums and cherries—meet silky tannins and just the right touch of French oak, a mix of new, once used and neutral. Young, compact and dense, it should reward up to a decade of cellaring. Cellar Se-

lection . — P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $ 34

WineMag.com | 73

92 Barkan 2010 Reichan Assemblage ( Galil ).

Dense and dark, this heady red is a blend of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 13% Syrah. Powerful aromas and fl avors of wild blackberry, cassis, cigar-box spice and licorice root abound on the nose and in the mouth, and carry on through the long fi nish. The structure is fi rm and gripping, but perfectly matched to the intense fruit fl avors. This wine is balanced and at-tractive now, but greater nuance and complexity should develop with time; try from 2016–2020. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation . Editors’ Choice . — L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 35

92 Bella 2010 Block 10 Zinfandel ( Russian

River Valley ). Bella’s only 2010 Zinfandel from the Russian River Valley is high in alcohol, but manages somehow to maintain balance. It’s softly tan-nic and incredibly rich in chocolate, mulberry jam, cas-sis liqueur, prune and peppery-spice fl avors. Delicious, but heady. — S.H. abv: 15.7% Price: $ 45


Vineyard Chardonnay ( Columbia Val-

ley ). One of the best Chardonnays from this vineyard to date, a function of this warm site being able to ripen the grapes in this cool vintage. Racy and tight, it’s a sleek melding of citrus rind and fl esh, apple and mineral-in-fl ected acid. Excellent concentration and detail through the fi nish. Editors’ Choice . — P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 25


Vineyard Riesling ( Columbia Valley ). Despite a price bump from $15 to $18, this remains a superb value. In a portfolio loaded with excellent Rieslings —Ste. Michelle remains the largest Riesling producer in the world—this wine consistently offers the most structure and detail. A perfect balance between sugar (19.8 g/L) and acid is the foundation. Editors’

Choice . — P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 18

92 D’Arenberg 2009 The Coppermine Road

Cabernet Sauvignon ( McLaren Vale ).

D’Arenberg’s The Coppermine Road is always struc-tured—sometimes to excess—but the 2009 vintage seems to have the requisite fl esh to age successfully. Cedar, chocolate and cassis notes surround a fi rm core of dusty tannins. Drink from 2015–2025, and possibly beyond. Old Bridge Cellars . Cellar Selection . — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 65

92 D’Arenberg 2009 The Dead Arm Shiraz

( McLaren Vale ). As always, d’Arenberg’s top Shiraz isn’t all cuddles and charm. It’s rather fi rm in tex-ture, with rugged tannins that impart a dusty edge to the lengthy fi nish. But this vintage the fruit comes through clearer than it has sometimes in the past, bringing bright berry notes that marry well with hints of camp-fi re smoke and grilled meat. Try a bottle after 2016. Old Bridge Cellars . Cellar Selection . — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 65

92 EnRoute 2011 Les Pommiers Pinot Noir

( Russian River Valley ). The grapes come primarily from the Green Valley and Upper Middle Reach areas of the Russian River Valley, and you can detect the cool climate in the wine’s light, silky texture, mouthwatering acidity and just-ripe fl avors of cherry, rhubarb and persimmon. Elegant and savory, it’s deli-cious now, but will reward 5–6 years in the cellar. Cel-

lar Selection . — S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 65

92 Fess Parker 2010 Rodney’s Vineyard Syr-

ah ( Santa Barbara County ). This is an excel-lent Syrah, but you’ll want to cellar it because it shows great aging potential. It’s rich and dense in blackberry jam and cassis fl avors, with mocha and bacon notes that add to the complexity. The tannins are profound, but fi ne; give it at least six years. Cellar Selection . — S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $ 49

92 Iron Horse 2011 Native Yeast Chardon-

nay ( Green Valley ). This is among the dri-est Chardonnays Iron Horse has produced. It is elegant in style, with brisk acidity and notes of metal or stones. The wine did not undergo malolactic fermentation. What fruit there is suggests kiwis and limes. Drink it over the next six years, and not too cold. — S.H. abv: 13.4% Price: $ 48


BUYINGGUIDE

92 Iron Horse 2011 Rued Clone Chardon-

nay ( Green Valley ). An excellent Chardon-nay, exhibiting cool-climate acidity and minerality. It’s modest in alcohol, but also shows luxurious complex-ity. The fl avors are intense, with orange essence, honey and nectarines, brightened by a squeeze of lime acidity. Very fi ne and complex; for drinking over the next few years. — S.H. abv: 12.9% Price: $ 48


ed Merlot ( Napa Valley ). A tremendous wine, this is characteristic Merlot, with its soft tannins and fl eshy, appealing mouthfeel. There’s an intense core of cherry pie fi lling, red currants and heady cherry li-queur. Yet the alcohol is moderate, giving the wine an elegant, supple feeling. It’s delicious and easy to drink now, but try giving it 4–5 years in the cellar to let it be-gin to mature. Cellar Selection . — S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $ 95

92 MacPhail 2011 The Flyer Pinot Noir ( Rus-

sian River Valley ). There’s a lot of zippy acid-ity and even some fi rm tannins in this vibrant young Pi-not. The cherries, pomegranates and cola punch right through, like a fi st through paper. Its wonderfully dry and light in texture, with balanced alcohol. While it shows plenty of new oak, the wood doesn’t dominate, as it did in 2010. Nice now, and it should age for eight or so years. — S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 59

92 Matetic 2010 Corralillo Winemaker’s

Blend ( San Antonio ). Blackberry, cassis and earthy accents defi ne the bouquet on this blend of Syr-ah, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. The palate is as solid as a boulder, but not overtly hard. Prune, berry, toast and cocoa fl avors set up an elegant, rich and round fi nish with nice residual fl avors and mouthfeel. Drink now–2016. Quintessential Wines . Editors’ Choice . — M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 30

92 Peter Lehmann 2009 Stonewell Shiraz

( Barossa ). Lehmann’s 2009 may not be its best or longest lived Stonewell, but it’s a luscious ex-ample nonetheless. It’s round and creamy in the mouth, with no hard edges, and easy-to-appreciate fl avors of black cherries, plums, toasty oak and menthol. Drink now–2020. Hess Family Wine Estates . — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 95

92 Silver Trident 2010 Benevolent Dicta-

tor Pinot Noir ( Russian River Valley ). At fi rst sip, this wine exhibits clean and pure Pinot fruit, expressive of a cool-climate origin. The silkiness and tartness, and the subtle notes of pomegranate, rhubarb, ripe heirloom tomato and oak are delicious. The wine’s complexity lends itself well to developing bottle nuanc-es over the next 6–10 years. Cellar Selection . — S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 55

91 Barkan 2010 Eitan Assemblage ( Judean

Hills ). This is a dark, dense blend of 52% Syr-ah, 30% Merlot and 18% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas of cassis, blackberry and plum lead on the bouquet, with background accents of tree bark and forest fl oor. The fi rm structure and gripping tannins are softened by ripe black-fruit fl avors that carry through to the lin-gering fi nish. Balanced but young, this should develop greater complexity and nuance with time; drink 2016–2020. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation . Cellar Selec-

tion . — L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 35

91 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2011 Ethos Re-

serve Chardonnay ( Columbia Valley ). The Ethos bottling is the reserve-level Chardonnay for Ste. Michelle, generally done in a style that shows ripe, trop-ical fruit and plenty of buttery, toasty oak fl avors. It’s a popular style, emphasizing fl avors of banana, peach, pa-paya and vanilla custard. — P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 30

91 Frankland Estate 2009 Olmo’s Reward

( Frankland River ). This is more Cabernet Franc than anything else, but includes some Merlot, Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. One of the region’s signature reds, the 2009 offers cherry and cranberry fruit alongside hints of cigar box. It’s soft enough to be approachable now, yet remains stuffed with tannin. Try after 2015. Quintessential Wines . Cel-

lar Selection . — J.C. abv: 14% Price: $ 55

WineMag.com | 75

91 Gary Farrell 2012 Russian River Selection

Rosé of Pinot Noir ( Russian River Val-

ley ). Although pricey for a rosé, this shows wonderful complexity. The grapes come from two well-regarded vineyards, and the wine shows an elegant structure, with crisp acids and a dusting of tannins. It tastes of rose petals, herb tea, raspberries and nectarines. Editors’

Choice . — S.H. abv: 13.4% Price: $ 28

91 Henry’s Drive Vignerons 2010 Pillar Box

Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ( Padtha-

way ). This shows much more refi ned tannins than the 2009 vintage of this wine. Lively cassis fruit is cush-ioned by toasty, cedary oak and vanilla shadings, while the overall feel is lush and velvety, particularly on the long, supple fi nish. Quintessential Wines . Editors’

Choice . — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 21

91 Iron Horse 2011 Estate Chardonnay

( Green Valley ). Iron Horse’s 2011 Chardon-nays are all fi ne in their own ways, but this Estate bot-tling seems to combine many of their best qualities in a single wine. With ripe orange, pear, apple and smoky oak fl avors accented by brisk acidity, it shows the Iron Horse signature of elegant balance. — S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 28


ed Cabernet Franc ( Napa Valley ). Jarvis has tinkered with its Cabernet Franc over the years, and with good results. Today, its Cabernet Franc is among the state’s best. Made from 100% Cabernet Franc, it’s rich, full bodied and luscious, with notes of sun-ripened cherries. Could pick up some bottle nuance over the next 4–5 years. — S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $ 95

91 Kingston Family 2012 Cariblanco Sau-

vignon Blanc ( Casablanca Valley ).

This small-production Sauvignon Blanc (700 cases) overdelivers on its price by a factor of two or three times. It gets going with crisp, crystalline aromas of pas-sion fruit and briny grapefruit. A pure, juicy, ripped pal-ate offers lime, grapefruit, tangerine and herb fl avors, while the fi nish is minerally and clean. Kingston Family Vineyards . Editors’ Choice . — M.S. abv: 14% Price: $ 16


yard Unfi ltered Syrah-Tempranillo ( Rus-

sian River Valley ). A very interesting wine, this is bone dry, complex and smoothly tannic. The cherry, blueberry and red licorice fl avors mingle with charred meat and oak notes that change constantly in the glass. Tempranillo’s acidity gives it all a nice tart bite. Drink now. — S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 45

91 Prunotto 2009 Bussia ( Barolo ). This single- vineyard Barolo shows ripe berry aromas

and whiffs of incense and espresso. The palate shows almost overripe cherry fruit, layered with herbs, coffee and underbrush notes. It has big but ripe tannins and is fast approaching optimum drinkability. Enjoy it over the next few years. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates . — K.O. abv: 14% Price: $ 82

91 Robert Oatley 2012 Riesling ( Great

Southern ). This is a bit rounder and rich-er than many Australian Rieslings, with pronounced weight and rich texture on the palate. Instead of lime, it delivers orange blossom and orange sherbet notes that linger elegantly on the fi nish. Drink now–2020. Robert Oatley Vineyards Inc . Editors’ Choice . — J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 17

91 Salvestrin 2009 Salvestrin Estate Vine-

yard Cabernet Sauvignon ( St. Helena ). This is a huge, extracted Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s just what people expect Napa Cabernet to be: ripe, heady, oaky and bold. With deep, classy cassis, plum and choc-olate fl avors, it should develop additional nuances after 2017. Cellar Selection . — S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $ 60


BUYINGGUIDE

90 B Side 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon ( Napa

Valley ). This offers everything you want in a Napa Cabernet, and at a decent price. It’s dry, balanced in acidity and tannins, and elegantly constructed, with classic blackberry and cassis liqueur fl avors touched by oak. Not an ager, and doesn’t pretend to be; just a nice wine to drink now. Editors’ Choice . — S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 25

90 Baileyana 2010 Grand Firepeak Cuvée

Firepeak Vineyard Estate Grown Char-

donnay ( Edna Valley ). This shows the bright acid-ity and pure fruit of Edna Valley, with laser-like orange, pineapple and mango fruit, touched with honey, butter and smoky oak. Very pure and focused, it’s a distinctive wine that smacks of its terroir. — S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 28

90 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2011 Indian Wells

Chardonnay ( Columbia Valley ). The 2011

vintage is a high-water mark for the Indian Wells Char-donnay, principally because the oaky, buttered popcorn fl avors have been muted. It’s a fi rm, slightly tart mix of green and yellow fruits, with supporting acids and excel-lent length. Pleasantly toasty, but not over the top. Edi-

tors’ Choice . — P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 17

90 Double Canyon 2010 Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon ( Horse Heaven Hills ). Like many wines from the cool 2010 vintage in Washington, this one takes a considerable amount of time to get going. Once it does, you’ll know it was worth the wait. The fi rst release from this winery, it boasts a complex medley of herbs, cherries, olives and dusty earth. It’s rounded and supple, with tart acidity. The oak (35% new French) is dialed back, to allow the fruit to shine through. — S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 40

90 Dunham 2011 Three Legged Red ( Co-

lumbia Valley ). The ever-popular Three Legged Red keeps the quality high in this new vintage. Tart raspberry fruit fi lls the mouth, with good concen-tration and some snap to the fi nish. This is simply de-licious, and ready for warm weather sipping. Editors’


90 Fess Parker 2011 Syrah ( Santa Barba-

ra County ). The cool-climate origins of this wine are revealed immediately in the freshly crushed black and white pepper aromas. In the mouth, it’s ex-traordinarily rich in blackberry jam and cassis, with the chocolaty, roasted meat notes that frequently character-ize a good Syrah. Although it’s pretty tannic, it’s appeal-ing now, and should develop for 4–5 more years. Edi-

tors’ Choice . — S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $ 28

90 Gallo Signature Series 2010 Cabernet

Sauvignon ( Napa Valley ). The signature on the bottle is Gina Gallo’s, and what a lovely Cabernet this is. It’s rich, brimming with black currants, cocoa and oak, and the tannins are as smooth as velvet. Tastes so delicious now, there’s no reason not to drink it up. — S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $ 40

90 Hanzell 2010 Sessions Vineyard Pinot

Noir ( Sonoma Valley ). This wine is very young and needs time to come together. Currently, it’s all about tart acidity and fresh, penetrating Dr. Pepper, cherry, pomegranate and oak fl avors. It’s elegant and complex, with the potential to develop for 6–8 years, maybe longer. Cellar Selection . — S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 95

90 Hope Estate 2010 The Ripper Shiraz

( Geo graphe ). Made in a superripe, dense, al-most fudge-like style, The Ripper tastes like a plummy, chocolaty Christmas cake with slightly coarse tannins on the fi nish. It’s Port-like in fl avor, but without the heat from elevated alcohol. Drink it over the next few years. Winesellers Ltd . — J.C. abv: 14% Price: $ 20

WineMag.com | 77

90 Iron Horse 2011 Unoaked Chardonnay

( Green Valley ). Ripe, fl ashy fruit stars in this unoaked Chardonnay, in the form of pineapples, kiwis, limes and pears. The grapes for this delicious wine come from the winery’s estate vineyard, in the cool southwest-ern pocket of the Russian River Valley. — S.H. abv: 12.8% Price: $ 27


yard Acero Unoaked Chardonnay ( Rus-

sian River Valley ). The chilly vintage has yielded tart, green gooseberry and green tea fl avors, which run like a nerve through riper orange and mango notes. It’s clean and elegant now. — S.H. abv: NA Price: $ 29

90 Prunotto 2009 Barolo . Prunotto’s straight Barolo shows juicy, ripe cherry, white pepper

and balsamic sensations, and just a hint of espresso. It’s nicely balanced, although there’s not a ton of complex-ity. Enjoy it now and over the next few years. Ste. Mi-chelle Wine Estates . — K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 48

90 Prunotto 2010 Bric Turot ( Barbaresco ).

This shows ripe cherry aromas and hints of roasted coffee bean and underbrush. The palate is still a bit closed, but offers ripe cherry fl avors, hints of orange peel, anisette and a coffee note. This is still young and tightly tannic, but should evolve nicely. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates . — K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 65

90 Reaper 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon ( Chalk

Hill ). This is a big, rich Cabernet whose power-ful fruit stars. Blackberries, cherries, plums, cassis, co-coa and oak fl avors fl ood the palate, dazzling despite the fi rm tannins. This holds its own with more expensive Cabernets from Napa Valley, and should develop well over the next 5–6 years. Cellar Selection . — S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $ 35

90 Robert Oatley 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon

( Margaret River ). A sculpted, refi ned expre-sion of Cabernet Sauvignon, Oatley’s 2010 combines hints of mint and dark berries into a wine that offers clean, pure fruit, subtle oak shadings and a long, silky fi nish. Drink now–2020. Robert Oatley Vineyards Inc . Editors’ Choice . — J.C. abv: 14% Price: $ 20

89 Angeline 2012 Sauvignon Blanc ( Rus-

sian River Valley ). Angeline has a track re-cord for producing savory, delicious Sauvignon Blanc at an inexpensive price. The wine is dry, but rich in hon-ey, papaya and gooseberry fl avors, brightened by brisk acidity. — S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $ 15

88 MacMurray Ranch 2011 Chardonnay

( Russian River Valley ). This is a fun Char-donnay to drink. It tastes of honey, tropical fruit and or-ange fl avors, with the buttered toast and vanilla of oak barrels. It also has an interesting minerality. Gets better as it warms in the glass, so don’t drink it too cold. — S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 20

87 Chime 2012 Chardonnay ( Oakville ). Not the richest Chardonnay ever, but it has com-

plex notes of citrus, apple, nectarine and tropical fruits, with kisses of vanilla and cream. Acidity gives it elegant brightness. — S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $ 19


BUYINGGUIDE

86 Markus Huber NV Hugo Rosé Sparkling

( Osterreichischer Sekt ). This is a soft, creamy, strawberry- and caramel-fl avored wine with lively acidity and a very crisp, citrusy aftertaste. It’s an ideal apéritif-style wine, perfect for the summer. Circo Vino . — R.V. abv: 11.5% Price: $ 15

86 Martin & Weyrich 2011 Allegro Mosca-

to ( California ). This straddles the border between an off-dry table wine and a dessert wine. It’s crisp in acidity, with candied orange, golden apricot and honey fl avors. You could certainly drink it with cookies and fruits, but it’s just dry enough to stand up to squash baked with brown sugar, and a piece of grilled chicken. — S.H. abv: 8.5% Price: $ 12

85 Martin & Weyrich 2011 Pink Allegro

Moscato ( California ). Hews to the sweet Moscato style, with raspberry, orange, vanilla and white sugar fl avors. It’s an easy picnic wine for warm after-noons, especially with semisweet fruits, ham or light pastries. — S.H. abv: 8% Price: $ 12

SPIRITS

95 Boulard X.O. Calvados

(France; Palm Bay Inter-

national, Boca Raton, FL). Pow-erful and voluptuous, this topaz-hued beauty features warm vanilla, cinna-mon and concentrated fruit. Full bod-ied and weighty on the tongue, the long, spicy fi nish may remind some of mulled apple cider—except this is the real deal. Made with a blend of Calva-dos aged from 8–40 years.abv: 40% Price: $90

92 Boulard Grand Solage

V.S.O.P. Calvados (France;

Palm Bay International, Boca

Raton, FL). Made from as many as 120 different apple varieties, this burnished amber Calvados has a rich-ness reminiscent of fi ne Cognac or Armagnac. The complex layers un-fold to deliver vanilla, honey, almond, baked apple and dried apricot. The V.S.O.P. blends 4- and 10-year-old Calvados.abv: 40% Price: $50

90 White Pike Whiskey

(USA; Finger Lakes Dis-

tilling, New York, NY). This unaged whiskey has a malty, slightly raw aroma. Although it’s predictably hot at fi rst, it fades into a pleasantly fruity fi nish. Most moonshines go the other way, with fl avor fading into heat. This is a nice change. Recommended for cocktail use, especially for bloody marys.abv: 40% Price: $33

BEST BUYS

91 Barnard Griffi n 2012 Riesling ( Colum-

bia Valley ). Gorgeous aromas of peach, pear, fl ower and spice highlight this wine right from the start. There is an exotic, fl oral fl avor running alongside the tree fruits, and suggestions of mint and rosewater. Ex-cellent length and balance, with just a hint of sweetness. Best Buy . — P.G. abv: 11.8% Price: $ 10

90 Barnard Griffi n 2012 Rosé of Sangiovese

( Columbia Valley ). A perennial best-of-show winner, this lush take on rosé bursts with pretty cherry fruit, light touches of brioche and fresh-baked rolls. It fi nishes with a kiss of spice. Best Buy . — P.G. abv: 12.6% Price: $ 12

90 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2012 Harvest Se-

lect Sweet Riesling ( Columbia Valley ). This is an excellent Harvest Select bottling, with bright, sappy fl avors that seem not all that sweet. The residual sugar, listed at 47 g/L, is an asset, but doesn’t domi-nate. Flavors remain as crisp as a fresh Macintosh apple, juicy, forward and delicious. Best Buy . — P.G. abv: 10.5% Price: $ 10

WineMag.com | 79

BEST BUYS

90 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2012 Sauvignon

Blanc ( Columbia Valley ). With 12% Sémil-lon in the blend, this is a lovely, fresh, almost exuber-ant Sauvignon Blanc. Bracing and textural, with good varietal character but no excessive herbaceousness, it’s loaded with fruit fl avors of melon, grapefruit, kiwi and apple. A fi ne mix of precision and length. Best Buy . — P.G. abv: 13% Price: $ 11

90 Julia’s Dazzle 2012 Pinot

Grigio Rosé ( Horse

Heaven Hills ). Brief skin contact during fermentation gives this appropriately named, single-vineyard (The Benches) rosé it’s pretty pale-salmon color. It’s immediately appealing, with notes of melon and strawberry, and just a hair off-dry, with a rich, textured feel. Best Buy . — S.S. abv: 13.7% Price: $ 15

90 Pecchenino 2012 San Luigi ( Dogliani ).

This lovely Dolcetto is delicious, fresh and ut-terly drinkable. It has a classic fragrance of strawberry, cherry and licorice, all of which carry over to the palate, along with earthy notes and a hint of almond. Made to be enjoyed young, this pairs perfectly with pasta dishes and pizza. Vias Imports . Best Buy . — K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 13

BEST BUYS

88 Miles From Nowhere 2011 Shiraz ( Marga-

ret River ). With its herb and green olive aro-mas, this is not a typical value-priced Australian Shiraz. It’s surprisingly complex, adding just enough red berry fruit into the mix while staying on the savory, herbal side of the tracks. The tannins are supple, fading into an ashy touch on the fi nish. Drink now and over the next few years. International Vines, Inc . Best Buy . — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 13

88 Sobon Estate 2011 Old Vines Zinfandel

( Amador County ). Sobon’s Old Vines Zinfan-del is seamless in bright red fruit and soft tannins, with a tempered spiciness on the fi nish. A great value and go-to wine for a crowd, this is ideal to stock up on for outdoor gatherings, or just to get through the winter. Best Buy . — V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $ 13

85 Happy Camper 2012 Chardonnay ( Cali-

fornia ). Sour lemon and lime Lifesaver-candy fl avors mark this tart wine. It’s not very Chardonnay-esque, but it’s a fi ne wine in its own right, and the price makes it a bargain. Best Buy . — S.H. abv: 13% Price: $ 9

BEST BUYS

85 Kirkland Signature 2011 Merlot ( Colum-

bia Valley ). Fruity, with plum fl avors soaked in a good dose of vanilla, this is an easygoing wine for casual entertaining or everyday use. The blend includes 8% Syrah. Best Buy . — P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 9

84 Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi 2012

Sauvignon Blanc ( California ). A bit coarse in texture, with delicate fl avors of candied lemon and pink grapefruit. No oak, but sur lie aging gives it a nice creaminess. Best Buy . — S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 8

CORRECTIONS

On page 114 of the July 2013 issue, the importer for Terras Gauda was incorrectly listed as Gregory White PR. The correct importer is Aveniù Brands, Inc.

On page 116 of the July 2013 issue, the following review was cut off:

89 Legaris 2009 Crianza ( Ribera del Due-

ro ). Exotic blueberry and fi r tree aromas set up a jammy palate with soft tannins and fl avors of black-berry, dark cherry, toast and a hint of burnt beef. Wide-spread tannins cause the fi nish to feel mellow and not that pointed. This is a very good Spanish wine that’s not too complex. Drink through 2018. Aveniù Brands, Inc . — M.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 36


BUYINGGUIDE

90 William Church 2012 Viognier ( Yakima

Valley ). Viognier remains a strong suit for Wil-liam Church, and part of the consistency is the vineyard sourcing each vintage from Conner Lee and Gamache, in roughly equal proportions. Lemon and lime, peaches and apricots rule the palate, ripe but neither hot nor bit-ter. There’s a good long fi nish as well, but it’s the fruit that really shines. — P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $ 23

PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO

90 Convergence Zone Cellars 2012 Ciel du

Cheval Vineyard Drizzle Pinot Gris ( Red

Mountain ). Certainly among the most unusual wines from this vineyard, here is a Pinot Gris with 30 g/L re-sidual sugar and alcohol under 11%. There is suffi cient acidity—along with the minerality that the vineyard is known for—to keep the fl avors of citrus rind and fl esh well rounded and buoyant. Sweet enough to pair with a fruity dessert. — P.G. abv: 10.7% Price: $ 19

88 Barnard Griffi n 2012 Pinot Gris ( Colum-

bia Valley ). There’s plenty of fresh, ripe tree fruit goodness here, along with citrus streaks of lemon, lime and grapefruit. The acidity is what gives the wine its lift and verve. Best Buy . — P.G. abv: 12.8% Price: $ 12

87 Wind Rose 2012 Pinot Grigio ( Yakima

Valley ). This is 100% varietal, with light citrus fruit fl avors along with sliced pear. The wine is a bit of a featherweight; even the label describes it as “lemon chiffon,” which is entirely accurate. — P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $ 15

87 Castillo De Feliciana 2012 Vino Verano

Pinot Gris ( Columbia Valley ). This is 100% Pinot Gris, given 20 hours of skin contact, resulting in a “Gris de Gris” style of blush wine. It’s light and dry, with strong scents and fl avors of grapefruit. — P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $ 16

87 Ross Andrew 2011 Celilo Vineyard Pi-

not Gris ( Columbia Gorge ). Coming mostly from 1975 plantings of Pinot Gris at Celilo Vineyard, it’s light and lively with notes of apple and pear. Though it has just over 2 g/L of residual sugar, it drinks bone dry—it’s almost austere—with Celilo’s steely acidity. — S.S. abv: 12.7% Price: $ 20

87 Summit Estates 2012 Pinot Gris ( Colum-

bia Valley ). An appealing, medium sweet Pi-not Gris with notes of red apple and spice with a medi-um-bodied, oily feel. Best Buy . — S.S. abv: 13.3% Price: $ 9

SAUVIGNON BLANC

92 Woodinville Wine Cellars 2012 Sauvi-

gnon Blanc ( Columbia Valley ). A terrifi c wine, with a crisp, clean, classic nose of pure, crystalline

Sauvignon Blanc. Done in all stainless, sourced from Artz (Red Mountain) and Stillwater Creek (Ancient Lakes), this riot of melon, citrus, apple and sweet hay is just about perfect, with lovely natural acidity. Editors’ Choice . — P.G. abv: 14% Price: $ 18

90 Barons V 2012 Sauvignon Blanc ( Colum-

bia Valley ). Matthew Loso makes excellent Sauvignon Blanc, and this is no exception. Smooth, lush and creamy, it’s bursting with concentrated fruit fl avors of apple, peach and papaya—defi nitely not a grassy style by any measure. Everything points to barrel fermenta-tion, including the lick of fresh cream in the fi nish. Edi-tors’ Choice . — P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $ 18

90 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2012 Sauvignon

Blanc ( Columbia Valley ). For full review see page 79. Best Buy . abv: 13% Price: $ 11

88 DiStefano 2012 Sauvignon Blanc ( Co-

lumbia Valley ). Consistent with past vintag-es, this tart, grassy and spicy effort features green ap-ple fruit dusted with white pepper. There’s a trace of grain in the aroma and in the fi nishing fl avor as well. The blend includes 9% Sémillon. — P.G. abv: 14% Price: $ 19

RIESLING

94 Dunham 2011 Lewis Estate Vineyard

Riesling ( Columbia Valley ). For full review see page 71. Editors’ Choice . abv: 12.5% Price: $ 20


Vineyard Riesling ( Columbia Valley ). For full review see page 73. Editors’ Choice . abv: 12.5% Price: $ 18

92 Convergence Zone Cellars 2012 Bac-

chus Vineyard Dewpoint Riesling ( Co-

lumbia Valley ). By far the best Dewpoint to date, this tastes bone dry, yet it’s succulent, concentrated, and lightly honeyed. The deep fl avors of ripe Meyer lem-on and citrus just keep on going and going. Editors’ Choice . — P.G. abv: 12.3% Price: $ 17

91 Barnard Griffi n 2012 Riesling ( Columbia

Valley ). For full review see page 78. Best Buy . — P.G. abv: 11.8% Price: $ 10

91 Gamache Vintners 2012 Riesling ( Colum-

bia Valley ). This new Riesling from Gamache has almost 20 g/L of residual sugar, yet keeps its fresh-ness and appealing acidity. It’s undeniably a fruit bomb, with ripe fl avors of tree fruit and tropical fruit, espe-cially peaches and papayas. Drink it chilled. Editors’ Choice . — P.G. abv: 11.6% Price: $ 18

90 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2012 Harvest Se-

lect Sweet Riesling ( Columbia Valley ). For full review see page 78. Best Buy . abv: 10.5% Price: $ 10

89 Obelisco Estate 2012 Riesling ( Columbia

Valley ). Spicy and fl oral, with super concentra-tion, this fruit bomb of a wine is 100% Riesling, though the aromatics have the rose petal, soapy character of some Washington Gewürztraminers. The depth and in-tensity of the fruit are remarkable, but may make this a challenge to match with food, even spicy Asian noodle dishes. — P.G. abv: 11.6% Price: $ 22

88 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2012 Riesling ( Co-

lumbia Valley ). With residual sugar measuring 17 g/L, this puts the emphasis on fruit fl avors that are forward, round, ripe and slightly sweet. It’s right down the heart of the plate in terms of Washington styles; ap-ple and peach the main fl avors. Best Buy . — P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 10

88 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2012 Dry Riesling

( Columbia Valley ). Labeled dry, this nonethe-less carries a hint of sweetness, at 70 g/L residual sugar. It’s fruity and fresh, with melon, citrus and peach promi-nent. A perfect summer sipping wine. Best Buy . — P.G. abv: 13% Price: $ 10

OTHER WHITE WINES

92 L’Ecole No. 41 2012 Chenin Blanc ( Co-

lumbia Valley ). Just a hint of residual sugar provides perfect balance to this lovely Chenin Blanc, sourced from old vines in the Yakima Valley. The fl oral top notes invigorate the entry, and the cool climate, old vine fl avors mingle seamlessly. A sea of sweet melon, citrus, pineapple and orange creates a broad and fl avor-ful mid-palate, all in beautiful balance and proportion. Best Buy . — P.G. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 15

89 Balboa 2012 Summit View Vineyard Rous-

sanne ( Walla Walla Valley ). From the new Summit View vineyard, this tart, racy Roussanne is done in a steely style, with accents of mineral and citrus rind. Don’t look for the usual lushness of the grape; but there is plenty of fl avor nonetheless. Pepper and rind, orange peel and hints of apple are nicely integrated. — P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 30

88 Sineann 2012 Celilo Vineyard Gewurz-

traminer ( Columbia Gorge ). Aromatically expressive with notes of savory spice, white grapefruit, lychee, and citrus. It’s a touch off-dry and medium bod-ied, full of spice fl avors. — S.S. abv: 13% Price: $ 18

88 Sineann 2012 Grüner Veltliner ( Columbia

Gorge ). This fi rst Grüner Veltliner from Sine-ann is lightly aromatic with notes of citrus, apple, and spice. It drinks off dry with sharped edged, green apple-like acids. — S.S. abv: 12% Price: $ 18

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BUYINGGUIDE

86 Castillo De Feliciana 2012 Albariño ( Co-

lumbia Valley ). In Spain, Albariño is usually a steely, bone dry, sea-infl ected white wine. Here it is made in an off-dry style, with 10 g/L residual sugar. The sweetness masks any apparent varietal specifi city, resulting in a pleasant, but generic white wine. — P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $ 22

86 Original House Wine 2012 Market Mosca-

to ( Columbia Valley ). Made from Muscat Canelli, it’s perfumed with notes of orange rind, white fl owers, and pear syrup. It’s medium-plus sweet (54 g/L residual sugar), tapering toward the fi nish. — S.S. abv: 11.5% Price: $ 10

MALBEC

93 William Church 2010 Gamache Vine-

yards Malbec ( Columbia Valley ). For full review see page 72. Cellar Selection . abv: 14.8% Price: $ 34

93 Woodinville Wine Cellars 2010 LMS Mal-

bec ( Columbia Valley ). One of the fi nest Malbecs ever made in Washington, this pure varietal wine, sourced entirely from the Conner Lee Vineyard, is deeply concentrated with raspberry and loganber-ry fruit. Intense and structured for aging, it retains its clear, pure focus right on through an exceptionally long fi nish. Cellar Selection . — P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $ 38

92 Walla Walla Vintners 2010 Sagemoor

Vineyard Malbec ( Columbia Valley ). This single vineyard Malbec belongs with Washington’s best. The mix of purple fruits and intense barrel fl avors of clove, cocoa and dusty mocha inspires an impromptu “wow” once in the mouth. Smooth, satiny and seamless, it has a gentle hint of earth and herb threaded through the fi nish. Editors’ Choice . — P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $ 30

90 àMaurice 2010 Gamache Vineyard Mal-

bec ( Columbia Valley ). Single vineyard, 100% varietal Malbec can be spot on, and this succeeds with a balanced fl avor profi le of mixed berries and earthy tannins. There’s a hint of volatility, that quickly blows off. Decanting for an hour or so is advised. — P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $ 35

89 Balboa 2010 Estate Malbec ( Walla Wal-

la Valley ). Firm and toasty, this inviting Mal-bec deftly mixes streaks of herb, coffee and toast, with tart— but ripe—berry fl avors. It’s a good example of the fi nesse that is often a hallmark of Washington Malbecs. — P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $ 34

89 Redd Brand NV Malbec ( Yakima Valley ).

It’s rare to fi nd a Washington Malbec at this price; and this is a very good one at that. Toasty and fi rm upon entry, it loads the palate with black cherry and cassis, followed with generous barrel fl avors of cof-fee and a fi nishing thread of smoke. It tastes like a wine

that was intended to sell for considerably more. Edi-


88 Gamache Vintners 2009 Malbec ( Colum-

bia Valley ). Briary berry fl avors highlight this estate-grown Malbec. It’s fl ecked with pepper through-out a medium-length fi nish. — P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $ 30

88 Januik 2010 Weinbau Vineyard Malbec

( Wahluke Slope ). An aromatic wine with bar-rel notes of toast, chocolate, and licorice alongside pep-per and plum. It’s tart and expansive with a soft, velvety feel and a cherry liqueur-fi lled fi nish. — S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $ 35

MERLOT

92 L’Ecole No. 41 2010 Merlot ( Columbia

Valley ). This generous, Bordeaux-style, Mer-lot-dominated blend incorporates some old block fruit from a mix of fi rst-class vineyards scattered across the Columbia Valley. Lovely fl oral and clover notes arise, with bright berry and cassis fruit just behind. Sleek, de-tailed and long, this is a terrifi c value as well. Editors’


92 Tulpen Cellars 2009 Merlot ( Columbia

Valley ). Among a strong lineup of 2009 reds from Tulpen, this Merlot is the standout. It’s really a Bordeaux-style blend, with Merlot taking up three quarters, and the rest split among Cabernet, Cab Franc and Malbec. Stiff and herbal upon opening, it opens to reveal a fi rm scaffolding of fl avors, with muscular cas-sis and black cherry going deep into the fi nish. Tannins are ripe, and carry an herbal edge. Cellar Selection . — P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $ 34

91 Fielding Hills 2010 RiverBend Vineyard

Merlot ( Wahluke Slope ). Aged 19 months in American and French oak (68% new), it’s lush and ap-pealing with notes of vanilla and other barrel spices ac-centing herbs and red fruit. The palate is creamy in feel with tart, mouthwatering acids that draw out the fl avors for a long fi nish. — S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 36

90 Dumas Station 2010 Estate Merlot ( Walla

Walla Valley ). Merlot remains a solid strength at Dumas Station, thanks to the Minnick Hills and Birch Creek Vineyard fruit. Half the barrels were new, an equal percentage of French and American oak, lending a strong bourbon aroma, along with tobacco and vanilla components. The fruit remains a bit constrained, with black fruits leading into a core of cassis. Give this one a good decanting. — P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $ 28

90 Gamache Vintners 2009 Merlot ( Colum-

bia Valley ). Rich cherry fruit anchors this ex-cellent, estate-grown Merlot. It’s lush and textural, with deep, dark fruit fl avors and pleasant roasted notes of

coffee and smoke. Half the barrels were new American oak, the rest French, mostly new. — P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $ 25

90 L’Ecole No. 41 2010 Seven Hills Vineyard

Estate Merlot ( Walla Walla Valley ). This es-tate-bottling shows single vineyard focus, and a more herbal profi le than the winery’s Columbia Valley Mer-lot. Accents of clean earth and dark, cassis fruit suggest a wine with Bordeaux-like strengths and the possibility of cellaring for a decade or longer. Cellar Selection . — P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 35

89 Barnard Griffi n 2010 Merlot ( Columbia

Valley ). Always a fi ne value, Barnard Griffi n’s Merlot is a brightly fruit wine with tart red and purple berry fl avors. Tannins are still a bit stiff, but proportion-ate and ripe enough, with hints of café mocha in the fi n-ish. Editors’ Choice . — P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $ 17

89 Northwest Collection 2010 Limited Re-

lease Merlot ( Horse Heaven Hills ). Direct and appealing with notes of dried herbs, cherry, and toast. It’s broad in feel with good depth and structure with dry tannins the only thing holding it back. — S.S. abv: 14% Price: $ 25

88 Balboa 2010 Pepper Bridge Vineyard

Merlot ( Walla Walla Valley ). This is a good bottle, single vineyard-sourced, toasty and still tightly-wound with tart red fruits. It’s pretty and forward, per-haps best enjoyed in the next year or two. — P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $ 30

SYRAH

93 Mark Ryan 2010 Red Willow Vineyard

Lost Soul Syrah ( Yakima Valley ). This ex-cellent Syrah is a vineyard designate that perfectly cap-tures both vineyard and Yakima Valley terroir. It’s grace-ful and complex, lightly peppery, with plum and cherry fl avors at the core. The balance and length are superb. Editors’ Choice . — P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $ 48

91 Baby Bear 2009 Syrah ( Columbia Valley ).

Baby Bear is a collaboration between Eric Dun-ham and the actor Kyle MacLachlan, styled as a lighter version of their Pursued by Bear Syrah. This is a most enjoyable wine, with a big yum factor from the gener-ous barrel scents and fl avors. Toasty, smoky, a bit astrin-gent, but beautifully streamlined, it displays a full array of black fruits, adorned with lots of dusty, toasty barrel highlights. — P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $ 48

91 Fielding Hills 2010 RiverBend Vineyard

Syrah ( Wahluke Slope ). An aromatically brooding wine with notes of cherry, black pepper and barrel spices. It’s full bodied with rich fl avors and a cran-berry lick on the fi nish. — S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 38

WineMag.com | 83

91 Kontos Cellars 2010 Syrah ( Yakima Val-

ley ). Though not indicated on the bottle, this is entirely sourced from the Les Collines vineyard. There is a talented hand at work here, in the way the compo-nents knit together, crafting a seamless, complete wine with levels of intense, dark, chewy fruit and tannins. The fi nish is dense and long, and the wine shows far more depth than many of its 2010 peers. — P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $ 34

91 Mark Ryan 2010 Wild Eyed Syrah ( Red

Mountain ). This complement to the Lost Soul Syrah comes from the other end of the Yakima Val-ley, the Red Mountain vineyards of Klipsun and Ciel du Cheval. Cranberry and strawberry fruit shows good concentration. It’s a compact wine with plenty of min-erality from the vineyard sources, and an extended fi n-ish once it gets some breathing time. Cellar Selection . — P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $ 48

91 William Church 2010 Syrah ( Yakima Val-

ley ). Dineen and Red Willow ’Les Vins de Mar-coux’ supply the fruit for this complex, aromatic Syrah. A fecund melding of compost, chicken yard and choc-olate accents surround a core of berries and cherries. Ripe, round and mouth-fi lling, it’s not at all overpower-ing, but has the style and complexity to hold your inter-est through the entire bottle. — P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $ 32

90 Barnard Griffi n 2011 Syrah ( Columbia

Valley ). Though labeled simply Columbia Val-ley, this is a classic example of Wahluke Slope Syrah. Well-integrated layers of citrus, berry, roasted coffee beans, vanilla cookie and Graham cracker combine into a most accessible, yet complex wine. It’s ready to drink, and should be consumed over the next 3–4 years. Edi-


90 Barrister 2009 Bacchus Vineyard Syrah

( Columbia Valley ). Thick, heavy, potent and mouth-coating, this is a liquorous, almost syrupy wine, sure to please those who like big fruit, big tannins, and big barrel fl avors. Chocolate, espresso, tar and bourbon barrel fl avors dominate, in keeping with the house style. — P.G. abv: 15.3% Price: $ 28

90 Dunham 2010 Syrah ( Columbia Valley ).

This subtle, graceful Syrah acknowledges the cool vintage and takes full advantage of what it has to offer. It’s based upon elegantly-layered citrus and sap-py berry fruit fl avors, with just a delicate hint of clean earth. — P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $ 35

90 Gamache Vintners 2008 Syrah ( Colum-

bia Valley ). As Washington-grown Syrah takes the national spotlight, this entry from Gamache should be on everyone’s radar. It’s a very well-made example of the classic Washington style, with a bright mix of berry, composted earth, licorice and black tea, backed with cit-rusy acids. Moderate in density, despite relatively high

alcohol, it’s good for drinking over the next fi ve years. — P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $ 30

90 Kontos Cellars 2010 Tate Syrah ( Yaki-

ma Valley ). A very limited production wine (just two barrels) sourced from the Boushey vineyard, it is rather light but nicely detailed in a cooler vintage. There are notes of leaf and dried herb, tart red fruit, and surprising length overall. — P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $ 46

90 L’Ecole No. 41 2010 Syrah ( Columbia Val-

ley ). With the addition of 20% Grenache, this pushes the rich fruit fl avors front and center. Ripe blue-berries are in the foreground, cutting through some as-tringent tannins. There is little evidence of the herbal character that many Washington Syrahs evoke, but it’s a bold, fruit-driven wine that is immediately enjoyable. — P.G. abv: 15% Price: $ 25

90 L’Ecole No. 41 2010 Estate Seven Hills

Vineyard Syrah ( Walla Walla Valley ). This refl ects the cooler vintage in 2010, with light spice and peppery earth highlights. Blueberry and cherry fl avors are in proportion, displaying the lightness of fruit from vines just entering maturity, and backed with earthy, herbal tannins. — P.G. abv: 15% Price: $ 35

90 Tulpen Cellars 2009 Syrah ( Columbia

Valley ). The sophisticated southern Rhône-style blend includes Viognier, Grenache and Mourvè-dre, sourced from vineyards in Walla Walla, Yakima Val-ley, and the Horse Heaven Hills. It’s smooth and sexy, with a satiny presence in the mouth. The purple plum and berry fruit fl avors are matched to lightly grainy tan-nins, with streaks of cocoa and earth. — P.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $ 28

88 McKinley Springs 2010 Syrah ( Horse

Heaven Hills ). The oak (25% new French and American) is pleasantly dialed back here allowing the pure notes of plum, cherry, and espresso to shine through. The concentration dips a bit in the middle but it still brings much to enjoy and fi ts in well at the din-ner table. — S.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $ 24

88 Redd Brand 2009 Syrah ( Walla Walla Val-

ley ). Mixed in with the Syrah are small amounts of Merlot and Tempranillo. The structure is fi rm and carries generous acids, while the fl avors suggest citrus and berry, vanilla and chocolate. It delivers a lot of plea-sure for the modest price. — P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 15

88 Walla Walla Vintners 2010 Syrah ( Walla

Walla Valley ). Tart, tight and taut, this well-balanced Syrah walks the line between bramble and herb. It’s medium-bodied, and the fruit fl avors suggest strawberry and raspberry rather than deeper ripeness. Earthy, mushroom and umami highlights create an in-teresting fi nish. — P.G. abv: 14.3% Price: $ 32


BUYINGGUIDE

88 Woodinville Wine Cellars 2010 Syrah

( Columbia Valley ). Syrah in Washington can assume many shapes; here it shows many elements of the forest fl oor—dried leaves, moist earth, hints of mushroom. It seems to be locked down at the moment, the green tea tannins forming a shell around the tart fruit. Bound to improve dramatically with further bottle age. — P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $ 30

CALIFORNIA

CHARDONNAY

94 Dutton-Goldfi eld 2011 Dutton Ranch

Walker Hill Vineyard Chardonnay ( Green

Valley ). For full review see page 71. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 50


yards Estate Grown Chardonnay ( So-

noma Coast ). For full review see page 71. Cellar Se-

lection . abv: 13.5% Price: $ 55


yard Dobles Lias Unfi ltered Chardonnay

( Russian River Valley ). For full review see page 72. abv: 14.2% Price: $ 45

93 Shafer 2011 Red Shoulder Ranch Char-

donnay ( Carneros ). A huge Chardonnay, so full-bodied and rich, it’s almost like a red wine, but that’s the Red Shoulder personality. With buttercream, jammy tropical fruit, orange custard, vanilla, buttered toast and brown sugar fl avors, it would be over the top, except for vibrant acidity and a deep minerality. Drink now–2017. — S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $ 50

92 Foley 2010 JA Ranch Chardonnay ( Sta.

Rita Hills ). This is a more serious Chardonnay than Foley has shown in recent years. It’s a fi ne wine, crisp yet silky, and while there’s plenty of citrus, tropical fruit and oak fl avor, the wine is subtle and restrained. It has a tug of minerality that makes it truly complex. — S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $ 45

92 Freeman 2011 Ryo-Fu Chardonnay ( Rus-

sian River Valley ). Freeman’s Ryo-fu Char-donnay always is a tasty, delicious wine. This wine shows a purity of tropical and citrus fruits, with subtle mineral, roasted nut and dried apple complexities, brightened by crisp, lemony acidity. Drink now–2017, but not too cold. — S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 40

92 Iron Horse 2011 Native Yeast Chardon-

nay ( Green Valley ). For full review see page 73. abv: 13.4% Price: $ 48

92 Iron Horse 2011 Rued Clone Chardonnay

( Green Valley ). For full review see page 74. abv: 12.9% Price: $ 48

92 Joseph Swan Vineyards 2011 Kent the

Younger Chardonnay ( Russian River Val-

ley ). With only 12.5% alcohol by volume, this young-vine Chardonnay is one of the lightest, most delicate Chardonnays the winery has ever produced. But it’s not shy on fl avor, delivering waves of tropical fruits, peach-es, vanilla and buttered toast. Long and sweet in honey, it fi nishes dry and racy. Defi nes the new elegant style of Chardonnay. — S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 36

92 Morgan 2011 Double L Vineyard Char-

donnay ( Santa Lucia Highlands ). Morgan’s Double L is usually his biggest Chardonnay of the vin-tage, powerful in fruit and oak barrel infl uences. His 2011 shows both of those qualities. The fruit is concen-trated in oranges, nectarines and mangoes, while 30% new French oak adds the requisite touch of toast. It’s a dramatic, fl ashy wine that calls for equally upscale food, such as lobster, shrimp or scallops, in your favorite but-tery sauce. — S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $ 40

91 Iron Horse 2011 Estate Chardonnay


91 Patz & Hall 2011 Hudson Vineyard Char-

donnay ( Carneros ). This Chard is rich yet crisply acidic and complex. Shows plenty of new French oak, but wears it well, with the pineapple, mango, hon-eysuckle and mineral fl avors standing up. Delicious now, and will hold in the bottle for 4–5 years. — S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $ 55

90 Alysian 2010 Floodgate Vineyard Clone

95 Chardonnay ( Russian River Valley ).

This Chardonnay is made in a leaner, lower alcohol style. In place of the fat, rich fruit of some Chards you’ll fi nd a tart minerality, with the citrus and peach fl avors containing hints of sweet green peas. Gains extra points for elegance. — S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 40

90 Baileyana 2010 Grand Firepeak Cuvée

Firepeak Vineyard Estate Grown Char-

donnay ( Edna Valley ). For full review see page 76. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 28

90 Campovida 2012 Oppenlander Vineyard

Chardonnay ( Mendocino County ). Cam-povida continues to impress with its newly released white wines, producing this crisp, sharp and lemon-y Chardonnay from the beautiful Oppenlander Vineyard, settled in the tiny coastal-kissed town of Comptche. The lemon hits fi rst, followed by a distinct layer of green ap-ple and even a hint of fl oral fi g. With graceful acidity, this is a perfect white for the dinner table, not too high in alcohol at 13.1%, too. — V.B. abv: 13.1% Price: $ 38

90 Foley 2010 T Anchor Ranch Chardonnay

( Sta. Rita Hills ). A soft, pleasant Chardonnay that has some extra features beyond the ripe, oaky fruit fl avors. There’s a fatness and opulence to it, with sweet fl avors of honey, pineapples and buttered toast that fi n-ish long and dry. Best consumed now. — S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $ 45

90 Iron Horse 2011 Unoaked Chardonnay


90 Jax 2011 Cold Creek Ranch Vineyard

Chardonnay ( Carneros ). Jax has struggled to fi nd a style to their Chardonnay. This 2011 is their fi nest effort to date, although it does show the effects of the chilly vintage, being tight and tart. With lime, or-ange and papaya fl avors, enriched with new French oak, it’s rich, yet elegant and restrained. — S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $ 38

90 Joseph Carr 2011 Chardonnay ( Sonoma

Coast ). Good price for a Chardonnay this opu-lent. It doesn’t pull any punches, offering full-throttle pineapple, Meyer lemon, butterscotch, toast and vanil-la fl avors, in a creamy texture. The richness fortunately is balanced with crisp, bright acidity. Editors’ Choice . — S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 20


yard Acero Unoaked Chardonnay ( Rus-

sian River Valley ). For full review see page 77. abv: NA Price: $ 29

90 Patz & Hall 2011 Dutton Ranch Chardon-

nay ( Russian River Valley ). New oak dom-inates this brisk, young Chardonnay. It’s elaborate in tropical fruit, Asian pears and green apples, with fi ne, tart acidity making the mouth water, as well as a buttery creaminess from lees and 100% malolactic fermenta-tion. Drink now. — S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $ 42

90 Patz & Hall 2010 Hyde Vineyard Chardon-

nay ( Carneros ). Don’t drink this Chardonnay too cold, as it needs a little while in the glass to show its stuff. Right off the bat, it’s austere, but when it airs, the tropical fruit, orange and oak complexities come out. The parts have not yet come together, though, so give it 3–4 years to develop. Cellar Selection . — S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $ 58

90 Trefethen 2011 Chardonnay ( Oak Knoll ).

A fi ne Chardonnay, front-loaded with tropical fruit, Asian pear, and green apple fl avors, with rich hon-ey and vanilla from charred oak barrels. With a crunch of acidity, it’s Trefethen’s best Chardonnay in years. — S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 32

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89 Foley 2010 Bar Lazy S Ranch Chardon-

nay ( Sta. Rita Hills ). This is an easy to drink Chardonnay made for drinking now. It’s forward in but-tered toast, honey, pineapple jam and butterscotch fl a-vors. — S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $ 45

89 Hanzell 2011 Sebella Chardonnay ( So-

noma Valley ). This is a sneak peak at Hanzell’s estate Chardonnay of the vintage, yet to be released. With a bit of oak, it’s dry, rich and creamy, displaying forward pineapple, Meyer lemon and lime fruit fl avors for drinking now. — S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 36

89 Morgan 2012 Metallico Un-Oaked Char-

donnay ( Santa Lucia Highlands ). Wine-maker Dan Lee selected lots of Chardonnay so rich on their own, they didn’t need oak. And you’ll hardly miss that barrel infl uence with all the intensely concen-trated tropical fruit, nectarine, green apple and vanilla fl avors. Shows a freshness that captivates now. Editors’


89 Patz & Hall 2011 Chardonnay ( Sonoma

Coast ). The pineapple and tropical fruits in this Chardonnay have been lavished with lots of new French oak. The fl avors of buttered toast and caramel dominate. It’s a rich, fl ashy wine to drink now. — S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $ 38

88 Hanzell 2010 Chardonnay ( Sonoma Val-

ley ). Tastes rich and fl ashy now, with a rich ar-ray of oranges, pineapples and peaches, accented with oak. The acidity is just fi ne. Hanzell Chardonnays have a history of aging, so try stashing it for six years and see what happens. Cellar Selection . — S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 75

88 Joseph Swan Vineyards 2011 Cuvée de

Trois Chardonnay ( Russian River Valley ).

The oak is strong on this blend of three of the winery’s best vineyards. It shows up as buttered toast, with a dis-tinctive, charry-sweet note of toasted marshmallows. The wine is strong in pineapples and oranges. An ec-centric Chardonnay for drinking now. — S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $ 29

88 Joyce 2011 Black Mountain Chardon-

nay ( Santa Lucia Highlands ). Shows lots of structure, with brisk acids, fi rm, granitic minerals and even a dusting of tannins. The fl avors are evenly divided between sweet citrus fruits and new oak. Not an ager, but a wine of fi nesse and elegance. — S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 24

88 MacMurray Ranch 2011 Chardonnay

( Russian River Valley ). For full review see page 77. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 20

88 Stolo 2011 Chardonnay ( San Luis Obis-

po County ). The combination of a cool grow-ing region and a cool vintage have made this wine very tart, with low alcohol. Don’t look for fat, opulent

tropical fruits here. Instead, you’ll fi nd lemons, limes and mangoes, complex and mouthwatering. Editors’


VIOGNIER

89 Fess Parker 2010 Rodney’s Vineyard

Viognier ( Santa Barbara County ). Even though there’s no new oak on this wine, it tastes oaky. Shows strong buttered toast and butterscotch fl avors, with underlying tropical fruits, pears, white fl owers and minerals. Very rich and thick, it can be an interesting substitute for a big, buttery Chardonnay. — S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 35

88 Borra 2012 Fusion White ( Lodi ). Borra’s Fusion is 90% Viognier and 10% Gewurztra-

miner and the two varieties bring out nice things in each other here, the fl oral aromas at the wine’s opening evolving into a crisp, soft, creamy center on the mid-pal-ate, a taste of citrus and honeydew standing out. — V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $ 17

88 Wattle Creek 2011 Viognier ( Alexander

Valley ). Lots of personality in this Viognier. It has a meaty fl eshiness, in addition to the peach pulp, orange and papaya fruit fl avors, with fi ne acidity that makes it all feel clean and lively in the mouth. An inter-esting wine to pair with modern pan-Asian-fusion fare. — S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 24

87 Luke Donald 2010 Sanford & Benedict

Vineyard Viognier ( Sta. Rita Hills ). Shows Viognier’s exotic side, with wildly fl avorful tropical fruits, peaches, white fl owers and honey, accented with smoky oak. It’s a little heavy, but fi ne for drinking now. — S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 36

WHITE BLENDS

89 Atrea 2012 The Choir ( Mendocino Coun-

ty ). Crisp and bright in lemon and apple, Atrea also has a honeyed richness to it, especially on the fi nish. A blend of almost equal Roussanne and Viognier, the latter comes from Lolonis’s very old, dry-farmed vines. Refreshing, this wine is begging for spicy food. — V.B. abv: 13.2% Price: $ 20

89 Steven Kent 2012 Lola Ghielmetti Vine-

yard ( Livermore Valley ). From one of Ste-ven Kent’s favorite Livermore Valley vineyards, Ghiel-metti, this vintage of Lola is 65% Sauvignon Blanc and 35% Sémillon, the SB picked fi rst off the vineyard; the Sémillon last of the whites. Whole-cluster pressed, it is briny, with a marine-like infl uence of savory and steely characteristics. Rich, but not too rich, it’s freshened by notes of lemon and lime. — V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $ 24

89 Borra 2012 Artist Series White ( Lodi ).

Borra winemaker Markus Niggli, a Swiss native, has gone back to his roots for this innovative blend of


BUYINGGUIDE

85% Kerner and 15% Riesling, proving that some of the best experimentation in California is happening in plac-es like Lodi right now. Full of lively acidity, this wine is crisp, soft, sparkling with lime, apple, lychee and kiwi, easy to enjoy on a summer’s day or any other day. — V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 18

88 Happy Canyon Vineyard 2011 Barrack

Blanc ( Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara ).

A Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc blend, this wine is brisk in acids, with a touch of cream and toast. But the star is the fruit. It’s rich and complex in lemons, limes and tan-gerines. — S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 40

88 Stolpman 2011 Golden Point ( Santa Ynez

Valley ). An unusual blend of Roussanne, Char-donnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier, this wine shows Stolpman’s growing mastery, as well as the success of mixing different grape varieties to make up for slight de-fi ciencies in each. The result is a complete, wholesome, invigorating wine, brisk in acidity and luscious in orang-es, peaches and mangoes. Editors’ Choice . — S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 19

87 Monte Volpe 2011 Primo Bianco ( Men-

docino County ). This wine is a screaming deal, like biting into a rich bite of apple with melon overtones chased with lemon on the long fi nish. A blend of Arneis, Cortese, Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc and Tocai Friulano, stock up for an In-dian summer. Best Buy . — V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 8

87 Sheldon 2012 Vinolocity Blanc ( Sonoma

Coast ). Sheldon had been sourcing their Vino-locity from Santa Barbara County, but they now turn to the Sonoma Coast, with improved results. Blended from Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Viognier, and moderately oaked, it’s fi ne to drink now, with citrus, nectarine and vanilla fl avors. — S.H. abv: 12.8% Price: $ 30

87 Volker Eisele Family Estate 2011 Gemi-

ni ( Napa Valley ). This is the winery’s Graves-style Sémillon-Sauvignon Blanc blend. It’s smoothly tex-tured and a little soft, with citrus, herb and spice fl avors that fi nish with a touch of toasty oak. — S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 25

PINOT NOIR

94 Freeman 2011 Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir

( Russian River Valley ). A fabulous Pinot Noir. It’s enormously complex, in the way of Keefer Ranch, with tart fl avors of sour cherries, pomegranates and cranberries that indicate the cool vintage. There’s also lots of zesty acidity, and the fi nish is spicy and in-credibly long. Savory and succulent now, but it really needs time. Best after 2017. Cellar Selection . — S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 48

94 MacPhail 2011 Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir


94 Sheldon 2011 Roma’s Vineyard Pinot

Noir ( Anderson Valley ). Sheldon’s Roma’s Vineyard Pinot Noir is exquisite. Very light in color (and alcohol level at 12.9 percent), it opens with gorgeous raspberry and violet aromas. Fully satisfying from start to fi nish, it has a lush mouthfeel, cherry spice high tones and a long, easy fi nish that will tempt you to want more. This is a beautiful wine. Only 60 cases made. — V.B. abv: 12.9% Price: $ 48

93 Carpe Diem 2010 Pinot Noir ( Anderson

Valley ). This Carpe Diem Pinot is made by Ar-naud Weyrich, who also makes the Roederer wines in Anderson Valley, some of the best known to the region. So it’s no surprise this still wine is also stellar—earthy and mushroom-tinged, with a sexy mouthfeel, blue and red high tones of fruit and just a soft hint of spice. It’s also priced at the lower end for the Anderson Valley, making it a steal. — V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 33

93 Dierberg 2009 Steven Pinot Noir ( Santa

Maria Valley ). The word impertinent should probably never be used in a wine review, but it comes to mind with this one. It’s fresh and in your face right now, a wine that just doesn’t work in the refi ned company of, say, roast lamb or a fi ne grilled tenderloin of beef. There’s a huge heart of cherries and currants, and the balance of acids and tannins is superb. Clearly a cellar candidate. Wait until 2017 to pop the cork. Cellar Se-lection . — S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 65

93 Freeman 2011 Aikiko’s Cuvée Pinot Noir

( Sonoma Coast ). An outstanding Pinot Noir, but a deceptive one. It’s fl amboyant in raspberry, pome-granate and cherry jam fl avors that are immediately de-licious, in the California style. Yet there are subtleties of mushrooms, herbs and minerals that give the wine true complexity. Your best bet is to allow this Pinot Noir to age for 7–8 years. Cellar Selection . — S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $ 58


yards Estate Grown Pinot Noir ( Sonoma

Coast ). For full review see page 72. Cellar Selection . abv: 13.5% Price: $ 55


yard Earthquake Block Unfi ltered Pinot

Noir ( Russian River Valley ). For full review see page 72. Cellar Selection . abv: 14.9% Price: $ 47

92 Benovia 2010 Bella Una Pinot Noir ( Rus-

sian River Valley ). Another dry, ageable Pi-not from this fi ne winery. The light, silky texture and brisk acidity make it feel especially stimulating and easy. There’s tremendous weight to the red fruits and cur-rants. Give it 6–8 years in a good cellar. Cellar Selec-tion . — S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $ 56

92 Benovia 2010 Cohn Vineyard Pinot Noir

( Sonoma County ). This bottling is proving to be a consistent one for Benovia. The 2010 shows a silky

texture, bright in acids and complex in fruit. The fl a-vors are indisputably cool-climate, with a tart cranberry edge to the raspberries, yet there’s a delicious sweetness throughout. Give it 6–8 years in the cellar. Cellar Se-lection . — S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 65

92 Benovia 2010 La Pommeraie Pinot Noir

( Russian River Valley ). Benovia’s been on a roll lately with silky, tart young Pinot Noirs that have the balance to age. You’ll fi nd complex pomegranate, rhubarb, sweet heirloom tomato and cherry fl avors, wrapped into smooth tannins. The acids are standout bright, and will help the wine in the cellar. Should gath-er traction after 2016. Cellar Selection . — S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 56

92 EnRoute 2011 Les Pommiers Pinot Noir

( Russian River Valley ). For full review see page 73. Cellar Selection . abv: 14.5% Price: $ 65

92 Freeman 2011 Pinot Noir ( Russian Riv-

er Valley ). A lovely Pinot Noir that shows fi ne Russian River character. Made from some good vine-yards, including Keefer Ranch, it shows an elegant deli-ciousness of cherry and raspberry jam, cola and pome-granate fl avors, touched with new oak. Silky and dry, this polished wine is good to drink now, and will hold for 6–8 years. — S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $ 44

92 Fulcrum 2011 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Pi-

not Noir ( Sonoma Coast ). There’s a sappi-ness to this Pinot, a molasses-like richness that’s an indi-cation of extreme youth. It’s packed with pure, creamy plums, cherries and red currants, with hints of bacon and spices that add to the deliciousness factor. You’re best off cellaring this polished wine for 5–6 years, to let it start to mellow. Shows a welcome return to form for this bottling, after two tough vintages. Cellar Selec-tion . — S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $ 57

92 MacPhail 2011 The Flyer Pinot Noir ( Rus-

sian River Valley ). For full review see page 74. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 59

92 Morgan 2011 Garys’ Vineyard Pinot Noir

( Santa Lucia Highlands ). Lighter in texture and more delicately structured than Morgan’s past bot-tlings of Garys’ have been, no doubt due to the vintage. It’s a nearly half a percent lower in alcohol than the big, tannic 2009. The fruit is outstanding and delicious, as it always is from Garys’, offering waves of cherries, sweet persimmons and toast. Drink this beautiful wine any-time over the next six years. — S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $ 54

92 Silver Trident 2010 Benevolent Dictator

Pinot Noir ( Russian River Valley ). For full review see page 74. Cellar Selection . abv: 14.1% Price: $ 55

WineMag.com | 87

91 Freeman 2011 Pinot Noir ( Sonoma

Coast ). This is one of Freeman’s basic 2011

Pinots, along with their Russian River Valley bottling, and a very good wine it is. Made from a variety of vine-yards in the big Sonoma Coast appellation, the wine is silky and tart in acidity, with cranberry, cola, raspberry jam and toasty oak fl avors. The alcohol is low, making it a lovely food-friendly wine. Drink now–2019. — S.H. abv: 13.4% Price: $ 44

91 Fulcrum 2011 Brosseau Vineyard Pinot

Noir ( Chalone ). A thick, rich Pinot, brood-ingly closed despite a peacock’s tail of red berries and currants that fans out across the palate. It fi nishes long and spicy. While the tannins are signifi cant, they’re soft and charming. It will not be surprising if this wine shows real development after 2016. Cellar Selection . — S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 54

91 Fulcrum 2011 Wildcat Mountain Vineyard

Pinot Noir ( Carneros ). So sweet and jammy, it’s hard not to drink it up now, despite some fi rm tan-nins. Displays a rich spectrum of cherries, pomegran-ates and red currants, with exotic spices and the brown sugary sweetness of toasted oak. The fi nish is dry and elegant. A real beauty for drinking over the next fi ve years. — S.H. abv: 14% Price: $ 54

91 Hanzell 2010 Pinot Noir ( Sonoma Valley ).

This Pinot is too tart and tannic to drink now, though it has great potential. You have to search for the fruit, but it’s there, in deeply hidden layers of cherries and red currants. Dry and stubborn now, but don’t give up. It will reward cellaring for a minimum of six years. Cellar Selection . — S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 95

91 Saracina 2011 Klindt Vineyard Pinot Noir

( Anderson Valley ). This is an elegant Pinot Noir, aromatic in cherry and raspberry with juicy acidity and a memorable fi nish, understated in alcohol and too-ripe fl avors. Earthy, enjoy it with lamb or pork smoth-ered in mushrooms and herbs. — V.B. abv: 13.6% Price: $ NA

90 Calicaro 2010 Paris Mountain Lone Oak

Vineyard Pinot Noir ( Santa Lucia High-

lands ). Good structure in this Pinot, with fi rm tannins and fi ne coastal acidity. It shows jammy raspberry, cher-ry and cola fl avors whose sweetness is echoed by the toasty oak. It’s all a bit unresolved, but give it 5–6 years to knit together. Cellar Selection . — S.H. abv: 14% Price: $ 54

90 Chalk Hill 2011 Estate Pinot Noir ( Rus-

sian River Valley ). Chalk Hill enters the Pi-not game with this inaugural offering. It’s a fruity, spicy wine, rich in cherries and raspberries, with a light, silky texture. There’s an oaky note, but the fi nish is chiseled. A lovely wine for drinking over the next year or two. — S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 48

90 De Loach 2010 Durrell Vineyard Pinot

Noir ( Sonoma Coast ). Right out of the


BUYINGGUIDE

bottle, this single vineyard Pinot is rich. The fl avors of raspberry and cherry pie, sprinkled with cinnamon and brown sugar, are delicious and direct. You can certainly drink it now, but the acid-tannin balance suggests the wine will develop and improve over the next 5–6 years. Cellar Selection . — S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 50

90 Francis Coppola 2011 Kylah’s Vineyard

Reserve Pinot Noir ( California ). This is Coppola’s best 2011 Pinot Noir, out of several produced under different brand names. It has a stylish mouthfeel of silk and satin that’s pure Pinot. Meanwhile, the fl avors are lush, suggesting oak-infl uenced raspberries. — S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 38

90 Hanzell 2010 Sessions Vineyard Pinot

Noir ( Sonoma Valley ). For full review see page 76. Cellar Selection . abv: 14.5% Price: $ 95

90 Judson Hale Winery 2011 Walsh Ranch

Pinot Noir ( Yorkville Highlands ). Light-ly textured and velvety in feel, Judson Hale’s Yorkville Highlands Pinot Noir has a bigger fruit expression than many of its brethren from cooler parts of the nearby An-derson Valley, with ripe red fruit front and center and a big, slightly woody fi nish. — V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $ NA

90 Maldonado 2011 Los Olivos Pinot Noir

( Napa Valley ). This is a rich, robust Pinot Noir, defi ning the big, tannic style. It explodes in cherry, cola and pomegranate fruit fl avors, with the added note of caramelized oak. You can drink this wine now, but it should hold in the bottle for 6–8 years, gradually mel-lowing. The vineyard is in the cooler southern part of the valley, near Carneros. — S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 42

90 Maldonado 2011 Parr Vineyard Pinot

Noir ( Sonoma County ). Lots to like in this vibrant young Pinot. It’s silky yet has some weight to it, with layers of cherry jam, cola and a spicy meatiness. Should develop interest over the next 5–6 years, but you can certainly drink it now. — S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 32

89 Foursight 2010 Charles Vineyard Pinot

Noir ( Anderson Valley ). This Foursight Pi-not is one of two, in amount of oak used (40% new oak in this case).This is light in color, earthy with mush-room-y spice tones and a darker fruit and oak expres-sion than other, lighter-styled Anderson Valley Pinots. The vineyard is closer to Boonville and thereby typically warmer than the valley’s Deep End. — V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 46

89 Foursight 2010 Charles Vineyard, Zero

New Oak Pinot Noir ( Anderson Valley ).

The no new oak-version of Foursight’s Charles Vineyard Pinot Noir, this one is brighter in cherry and raspberry fruit, with dialed-up acidity. It may be the better sipping wine, but will also pair deliciously with a roast pork or chops, lightly dusted in herbs. — V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 38

89 Laetitia 2011 Reserve du Domaine Pinot

Noir ( Arroyo Grande Valley ). Brisk, citrusy acidity acts as a lever to the raspberry and cherry fruit fl avors, lifting them to bright zestiness. The wine is a vintner’s blend of barrels from across the large vineyard. There’s a jammy directness that makes it instantly tasty, but it’s not an ager. Drink now. — S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $ 40

89 Laetitia 2010 La Coupelle Pinot Noir ( Ar-

royo Grande Valley ). The raspberry jam, mo-cha and toasty oak fl avors of this block selection from the estate vineyard make the wine especially delicious. It shows the brisk acidity of the Arroyo Grande, with a light, silky texture and a brown sugary fi nish. Not an ager, so drink soon for the sheer fruity opulence. — S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $ 60

89 Martin Ray 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir

( Santa Cruz Mountains ). This is a very nice Pinot, with some special qualities to recommend it. It’s crisp yetsilky, with pleasantly complex cherry, rhubarb and pomegranate fruit, touched with oak. Doesn’t have the stuffi ng for aging, so drink up. Great with char-broiled steak. — S.H. abv: 13.2% Price: $ 40

89 Patz & Hall 2011 Pinot Noir ( Sonoma

Coast ). Shows good Sonoma Coast character in the tart acids and cool-climate fl avors of pomegran-ates, cherries and cola. Lots of new French oak adds rich notes of buttered toast and smoke. Appealingly dry, it’s a fancy, elegant wine from this fi ne producer, but fi nishes a little short. Drink over the next 2–3 years. — S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $ 45

88 Bougetz 2011 Pinot Noir ( Sonoma

Coast ). A fi ne, solid Pinot, showing the tart acidity, delicate silkiness and tight structure of the coast, in a wine to drink now. The fl avors are fl ashy and com-plex, with sour cherry candies, cranberries and toasty oak. — S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $ 38

88 Foley 2010 Bar Lazy S Ranch Pinot Noir

( Sta. Rita Hills ). Brisk lime acidity gives the raspberry, cherry and currant liqueur fl avors a bright mouthfeel. Oak brings richness and additional tannins. The wine is dry and elegant, with complex fl avors to drink over the next few years. Give it some time in a decanter. — S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 55

88 Gallo Signature Series 2011 Pinot Noir

( Santa Lucia Highlands ). Lots of savory raspberry and cherry pie fl avors in this soft, slightly heavy Pinot Noir. Oak barrel aging shows up as rich notes of buttered toast. It’s a fl ashy, opulent wine for drinking now. — S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $ 35

88 Joyce 2011 Tondre Grapefi eld Pinot Noir

( Santa Lucia Highlands ). This is a red wine for white wine drinkers. It’s silky and vibrantly crisp in acidity, like a Sauvignon Blanc, except the fl avors are

pure Pinot, suggesting sour cherry candy, persimmons and tart cranberries. Drink now–2017. — S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $ 35

88 Thomas Fogarty 2011 Pinot Noir ( Santa

Cruz Mountains ). This young Pinot, which is Fogarty’s most basic, is delicious now, but the tannins are strong enough to warrant a year or two of aging. It’s a pretty wine, smooth and tart in acids, with cranberry and rhubarb fruits that veer into sweeter notes of cherry jam. — S.H. abv: 12.9% Price: $ 35

CHILE

SAUVIGNON BLANC

91 Kingston Family 2012 Cariblanco Sauvi-

gnon Blanc ( Casablanca Valley ). For full review see page 75. EditorsÕ Choice . abv: 14% Price: $ 16

90 Luis Felipe Edwards 2012 Marea Fumé

Sauvignon Blanc ( Leyda Valley ). This is an expressive Sauvignon Blanc with almost vegetal aromas announcing coastal origins. The palate is chiseled and lemony, then minerally fl avors of grapefruit, tangerine and lemon give way to passion fruit and stony fi nishing notes. Laser-beam acidity and minerality are what drive this. Domaine Select Wine Estates . — M.S. abv: 14% Price: $ 30

88 Casas del Bosque 2012 Reserva Sau-

vignon Blanc ( Casablanca Valley ). This straddles the fence between vegetal and citrusy, with both sides appearing on the nose. In the mouth, this is high-toned and piercing, with laser-beam acidity push-ing passion fruit, grapefruit, green herb and melony fl a-vors. On the fi nish, a wave of mild green settles in, while the feel is actually a touch creamy. Drink now. American Importing . Best Buy . — M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 12

88 Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafi te)

2012 Los Vascos Sauvignon Blanc ( Cas-

ablanca Valley ). The normal Los Vascos style of Sau-vignon Blanc is lean and citrusy, with an emphasis on passion fruit aromas and fl avors. This wine, from a very warm vintage, is more tropical and plump than the norm. And while it’s still tight and nervy in the mouth, with lime, grapefruit and orange pith fl avors, it’s defi -nitely less angular than in the past. Pasternak Wine Im-ports . — M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $ NA

88 Santa Ema 2012 Reserve Sauvignon

Blanc ( Leyda Valley ). Classic, pungent fe-line aromas of passion fruit, citrus and grass set up a friendly palate with moderate acidity and nice fl avors of nectarine, lime and green melon. The fi nish introduces sweet notes of banana to go with lime. TGIC Import-ers . — M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 15

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87 Anakena 2012 Enco Reserva Sauvignon

Blanc ( Leyda Valley ). Tight, grassy, green aromas of pole beans and alfalfa get this racy Sauvignon Blanc going. It’s certainly fresh and lively on the palate, where green, briny fl avors of passion fruit and citrus fi n-ish minerally and lasting. Evaton, Inc . — M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $ NA

87 Caliterra 2012 Reserva Estate Grown

Sauvignon Blanc ( Central Valley ). For the money, this delivers about as much Sauvignon Blanc character as one could ask for. Aromas of orange and grapefruit are basic but correct. The palate is a bit low on acid, thus the fl avors veer toward warm and melony, with a citrusy base. A mild, yeasty fi nish says drink this wine as soon as possible. Durango Imports, Inc . Best

Buy . — M.S. abv: 13% Price: $ 11

87 Concha y Toro 2012 Marques de Casa

Concha Sauvignon Blanc ( Leyda Valley ).

Light, classic aromas of gooseberry, lime and nettle are good indicators of what’s to follow. That would be a high-acid, racy, seemingly early picked wine with fl avors of lemon, Granny Smith apple and gooseberry. A last-ing, tangy, acidic fi nish is crackling as a lightning bolt. Excelsior Wines . — M.S. abv: 14% Price: $ 23

87 Emiliana 2012 Novas Gran Reserva

Made with Organically Grown Grapes

Sauvignon Blanc ( San Antonio ). Initial aromas of peach pit, match stick and citrus settle on minerality. This is juicy and bright in the mouth, with good acid-ity and indications that the grapes were picked early to beat 2012’s heat. Briny, salty, tangy fl avors are normal for coastal San Antonio, while the fi nish is racy and cit-rusy. Banfi Vintners . — M.S. abv: 13% Price: $ 16

87 Errazuriz 2012 Max Reserva Sauvignon

Blanc ( Aconcagua Valley ). Hay, straw, match stick and minerally aromas outweigh this wine’s fruit scents by a measurable margin. This is chunky and a bit soft in the mouth, a refl ection of 2012’s heat. And while it’s round as a ball, it’s slightly vegetal and bitter tasting on the palate, with grapefruit and bell pepper fl avors. Vintus LLC . — M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 19

87 Mancura 2012 Guardián Reserva Sauvi-

gnon Blanc ( Casablanca Valley ). Although this opens with slightly hard, stalky aromas, it picks up character in the mouth. Flavors of lemon, lime, passion fruit and green apple are solid, while the wine’s acidity functions as a proper palate cleanser. This offers good value and overall quality. MHW, Ltd . Best Buy . — M.S. abv: 13% Price: $ 10

87 Morandé 2012 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc

( Casablanca Valley ). Feline aromas of net-tle, passion fruit, green herbs and sweat are not unusual for Casablanca Sauvignon Blanc. This is crisp, juicy and good in a normal way, while minerally citrus and pas-

sion fruit fl avors fi nish with only mild pithy bitterness. Grupo Belen USA . — M.S. abv: 13% Price: $ 14

87 Veramonte 2012 Ritual Sauvignon Blanc

( Casablanca Valley ). With yeasty aromas of Animal Crackers, vanilla and pear, this is more warm, soft and sweet than in the past. The year’s warm charac-teristics are draped all over the palate, which is soft and wide. Flavors of creamy white fruits and vanilla fi nish with lychee and grapefruit. This lacks some spine and vivacity but will be good through the end of the year. Huneeus Vintners . — M.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 20

87 Viña Casablanca 2012 Nimbus Single

Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc ( Casablanca

Valley ). Crisp aromas of nettle, citrus and tarragon are not too extreme or edgy. A round, citrusy, correct palate offers fl avors of pithy citrus and grapefruit. The fi nish is mild and chunky, with modest fl avors. Drink now. Santa Carolina . — M.S. abv: 13.8% Price: $ 19

86 Chilensis 2012 Reserva Estate Bottled

Sauvignon Blanc ( Maule Valley ). Despite showing neutrality on the bouquet, you will fi nd modest salinic, citrusy aromas. The palate feels round and good, with fl avors of orange and briny lime. A fl eshy feeling,

Australiaís oldestfamily owned winery.

www.yalumba.com

For more than 160 years Yalumba has been a vital

part of the Barossa with our founding family establishing

the winery in 1849. We pride ourselves on making

wines that are chosen by the land, planting grapes that best suit the place and so

refect perfect provenance.


BUYINGGUIDE

citrusy tasting fi nish is nice even if it isn’t overly zesty. Drink now. Vici Wine and Spirits . — M.S. abv: 13% Price: $ 12

CHARDONNAY

90 Miguel Torres 2012 Cordillera Chardon-

nay ( Limarí Valley ). It’s been a while since Torres Chile has made a Chardonnay this good. Min-erally and toasty is the best way to describe this struc-tured white. Good acidity keeps it upright, while plenty of barrel, cinnamon, apple and lemon character give it a Burgundian leaning. This is woody, racy and very lively now. Drink in 2014–15. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co . Cellar Selection . — M.S. abv: 14% Price: $ 23

87 Veramonte 2011 Reserva Chardonnay

( Casablanca Valley ). Lightly toasted apple, peach and melon aromas are friendly and come across correct and inviting. This is solid and good in the mouth, with nice acidity and resiny, oaky, melony fl avors. Light wood notes accent a fl eshy but healthy fi nish. Huneeus Vintners . Best Buy . — M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 12

86 Caliterra 2012 Reserva Estate Grown

Chardonnay ( Casablanca Valley ). Tropical aromas are typical for basic Chilean Chardonnay. This is plump in feel, with cantaloupe, honeydew and chunky apple fl avors. The palate feels balanced and the wine is just focused enough on the fi nish, which shows a spot of bracing acidity. Drink right away. Durango Imports, Inc . Best Buy . — M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 11

86 Maray 2012 Limited Edition Chardonnay

( Limarí Valley ). Maray Chardonnay is crisp and mineral-driven on the nose, but not overly fruity. This is lean-bodied, with cidery, tangy acidity and domi-nating fl avors of limestone-infl uenced citrus and stone fruits. It’s a modest Chardonnay with fi nesse but not a whole lot of fl avor. Biagio Cru & Estate Wines, LLC . — M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 20

AUSTRALIA

SHIRAZ

96 Glaetzer 2010 Amon-Ra Unfi ltered Shiraz

( Barossa Valley ). Despite this wine’s weight and richness, it retains a superb sense of balance and structure. Firm acids and tannins support the blueberry fruit, while savory notes of mocha and roasted meat pro-vide added dimension. Give it a few years in the cellar and drink it from 2015–2025. Epicurean Wines . Cellar Selection . — J.C. abv: 15.1% Price: $ 110

94 Giaconda 2008 Warner Vineyard Shiraz

( Victoria ). With only 10 cases imported to the U.S., one suspects that this terrifi c wine will largely be found in exclusive restaurants. If you can fi nd a bottle

at a reasonable markup, jump on it, for this is one of Victoria’s fi nest Shirazes. Hickory smoke, espresso and herbal notes accent raspberry fruit, whose brightness gives the wine extra lift and dimension. It’s creamy and lushly textured without ever seeming heavy, and boasts a long, silky fi nish that echoes with suggestions of cocoa powder and pulverized coffee beans. Drink now–2025. Negociants USA, Inc . Cellar Selection . — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 100

94 Torbreck 2010 The Struie Shiraz ( Baros-

sa ). For full review see page 72. Editors’ Choice . abv: 15% Price: $ 50

93 Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier 2009 L-

Block Shiraz ( Pyrenees ). From a special section of Lieu Dit Malakoff, this is a wondrously per-fumed Shiraz, dazzling with wintergreen, anise and cracked pepper scents, all layered over blueberry fruit. It’s medium in body and silky in texture, with a long, mouth-watering fi nish that brings espresso to mind. Terlato Wines International . — J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 60

93 Standish 2009 The Standish Single Vine-

yard Shiraz ( Barossa Valley ). If this wine doesn’t quite reach the heights of its 2005 or 2006 ver-sions, that’s O.K. It’s still terrifi c, offering complex notes of dried fl owers, anise and black cherries, and the tex-ture is lush and liqueur-like in the mouth. The tannins are so soft and enveloping they’re hardly noticeable, suggesting this wine will likely be at its best during its fi rst 10 years. Epicurean Wines . — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 135

92 D’Arenberg 2009 The Dead Arm Shiraz

( McLaren Vale ). For full review see page 73. Cellar Selection . abv: 14.5% Price: $ 65

92 Frankland Estate 2009 Isolation Ridge

Vineyard Shiraz ( Frankland River ). Meaty and intense, this Shiraz is loaded with scents and fl a-vors of cracked pepper, pungent coffee, roasted meat and ripe blackberries. It’s full bodied yet never seems heavy despite a sensation of warmth on the long, richly textured fi nish. Drink now–2020. Quintessential Wines . — J.C. abv: 14.3% Price: $ 40

92 Kaesler 2009 The Bogan Shiraz ( Barossa

Valley ). This plump, creamy-textured Shiraz may come across as slightly warm to some tasters, but it carries its alcohol reasonably well. Bright raspberry fruit, supple and lush, dominates the palate, highlighted by hints of dried spices. Drink it over the next several years. Epicurean Wines . — J.C. abv: 15% Price: $ 60

92 Luke Lambert 2010 Syrah ( Yarra Valley ).

This wine refl ects Yarra Valley’s relatively cool climate in its gently herbal and spicy demeanor. Anise and pepper accent the blueberry fruit in this medium-bodied offering that was 60% whole-bunch fermented, all by indigenous yeasts. There’s a bit of creaminess to

the texture, but little in the way of overt oak notes, and a long, silky fi nish. It’s a wine to shatter old stereotypes about Aussie Shiraz. Michael Skurnik Wines . — J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 69


( Barossa ). For full review see page 74. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 95


( Barossa ). Even at seven years of age, the 2006 Stonewell is a rich, thickly textured Shiraz. Dark fruit fl avors combine easily with tobacco and cedar shav-ings, adding some Port-like spice notes on the long fi n-ish. Drink now–2020. Hess Family Wine Estates . — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 95

92 Schwarz Wine Company 2010 Nitschke

Block Shiraz ( Barossa Valley ). From the Bethany subregion, this is a medium- to full-bodied, creamy-textured Shiraz. Cracked pepper accents rasp-berry and cocoa notes, and while some minty-eucalyp-tus notes are apparent, they’re never dominant. Long and lush on the fi nish, this seductive wine will proba-bly offer its best between now and 2020. Kysela Père et Fils . — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 50

92 Thorn Clarke 2010 William Randell Shi-

raz ( Barossa ). This luxury cuvée from Thorne Clarke combines ripe berries with cinnamon and clove, then adds dollops of vanilla and chocolate, yet never seems overly sweet. Likewise, it’s full bodied and rich, yet never goes over the top, maintaining a sense of freshness and structure. Drink now–2020, and possibly beyond. Kysela Père et Fils . — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 50

91 Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier 2009 Lieu

Dit Malakoff Shiraz ( Pyrenees ). The Terla-to-Chapoutier wines offer a refreshing, medium-bodied style of Australian Shiraz. Anise and mint feature prom-inently in this vintage, plus notes of blackberry, espresso and spice. Drink now–2016. Terlato Wines Internation-al . Editors’ Choice . — J.C. abv: 14% Price: $ 40

91 Mitolo 2009 Savitar Shiraz ( McLaren

Vale ). This dark-fruited, full-bodied Shiraz isn’t for the faint of heart. Espresso, dark chocolate, roast meat and plum notes come together in a creamy-textured wine that fi nishes with a tart, hard edge of acid-ity and a dusting of cocoa powder-like tannins. Vintus LLC . — J.C. abv: 14.9% Price: $ 72

91 Plantagenet 2009 Shiraz ( Mount Barker ).

Darker, sterner and less accessible than Planta-genet’s Omrah bottling, the winery’s fl agship Shiraz of-fers substantial dark fruit fl avors reminiscent of espres-so, plum and cracked pepper. The tannins are fi rm, suggesting at least 2–3 years of cellaring. (The 2007 is drinking well now.) Old Bridge Cellars . Cellar Selec-tion . — J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 29

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91 West Cape Howe 2009 Two Steps Shiraz

( Western Australia ). Sourced from Mount Barker, this is a full-bodied, supple example of WA Shi-raz. Concentrated plummy fruit is marked by hints of menthol and peppery spice, then ends in a soft wash of dusty tannins and mouthwatering acids. Drink now–2020+. The Vintner Group . Editors’ Choice . — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 17

91 Yarra Yering 2009 Dry Red Wine No. 2

Shiraz-Viognier ( Yarra Valley ). Vintage af-ter vintage, this wine impresses for its complexity and balance, and the 2009 won’t disappoint on those counts. It may not be the biggest, baddest Dry Red No. 2, but it features blueberry fruit and espresso and black olive shadings, a lovely supple texture and a softly lingering fi nish. Drink it over the next few years. Old Bridge Cel-lars . — J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 95

91 Yarra Yering 2009 Underhill Shiraz ( Yarra

Valley ). Savory, meaty notes marry nicely with plummy fruit and clove spice in this wonderfully supple example of Yarra Valley Shiraz. With extended aeration, this wine develops lots of smoky, ashy notes—a possible side effect of nearby bush fi res—so I’d opt for drink-ing it over the next couple of years. Old Bridge Cellars . — J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 95

90 D’Arenberg 2009 The Wild Pixie Shiraz-

Roussanne ( McLaren Vale ). This is sur-prisingly tough and tannic for a wine that incorporates 8% of a white variety. But those mouth-drying tannins give shape to the cassis, cranberry and black olive notes. Take a chance by cellaring this rather austere wine for fi ve years or so and see how it develops. Old Bridge Cel-lars . Cellar Selection . — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 29

90 Hope Estate 2010 The Ripper Shiraz

( Geo graphe ). For full review see page 76. abv: 14% Price: $ 20

90 Mitolo 2009 G.A.M. Shiraz ( McLaren

Vale ). A full-bodied, very ripe rendering of Shi-raz, Mitolo’s 2009 G.A.M. offers hints of raisined fruit to go with its notes of coffee, smoke, roasted meat and baking spices. The creamy midpalate and velvety fi nish make it drinkable already, although it should hold up well for another few years. Vintus LLC . — J.C. abv: 14.9% Price: $ 42

90 Plantagenet 2010 Omrah Shiraz ( West-

ern Australia ). An easy-drinking introduction to Shiraz from Western Australia’s Great Southern re-gion, the 2010 Omrah offers gentle cherry and cedar notes accented by hints of chocolate and roasted meat. It’s medium to full bodied, with a round, supple mouth-feel that ends in a wash of softly dusty tannins. Old Bridge Cellars . Editors’ Choice . — J.C. abv: 14% Price: $ 20

89 D’Arenberg 2009 The Laughing Magpie

Shiraz-Viognier ( McLaren Vale ). Filled with scents and fl avors of black earth, cedar and dark


BUYINGGUIDE

fruit, this impressively full-bodied wine demands to be served with something similarly big and meaty. Despite its size, it’s open-knit and accessible, with just enough coarse tannins on the fi nish to cut the richness of beef steaks or braises. Old Bridge Cellars . — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 29

89 Leeuwin Estate 2009 Siblings Shiraz

( Margaret River ). This medium-bodied Shi-raz is almost Saint Joseph-like in its charming cherry and cracked pepper fl avors. It’s not overly rich or com-plex, just an easy-drinking wine that should offer plenty of appeal over the next few years. Old Bridge Cellars . — J.C. abv: 13% Price: $ 20

89 Miles From Nowhere 2011 Best Blocks

Shiraz ( Margaret River ). Miles from No-where partner Franklin Tate’s family helped launch Evans & Tate to Margaret River stardom, but now this new venture is poised to take off. This full-bodied yet crisp Shiraz features vibrant, dark berry and cherry fruit framed by subtle vanilla and toast shadings. It’s solid from start to fi nish. The regular Shiraz bottling is a Best Buy. International Vines, Inc . — J.C. abv: 14% Price: $ 18

89 Plantagenet 2010 Hazard Hill Shiraz

( Western Australia ). This medium-bodied Shiraz is supple, immediately drinkable and complex—what more could one want for under $15? Find plummy fruit, meaty elements, cracked pepper and hints of mo-cha and a long, savory fi nish here. Old Bridge Cellars . Best Buy . — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 13

88 Evans & Tate 2010 Metricup Road Shiraz

( Margaret River ). This affordable bottling offers intensely concentrated fruit nicely accented by hints of cedar and mocha. The tart, mixed-berry fl avors are crisp and mouth-watering, fi nished off by a dusting of cocoa powder on the fi nish. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits . Editors’ Choice . — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 15

88 Greenstone 2008 Shiraz ( Heathcote ). This medium-weight Shiraz features subtle campfi re

notes from start to fi nish, underscoring its cherry and mint aromas and fl avors. Fresh and friendly, it features a soft dusting of tannins on the fi nish. Drink it now and over the next few years. Old Bridge Cellars . — J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 40

88 Leeuwin Estate 2010 Art Series Shiraz

( Margaret River ). This wine’s bright berry notes make it very accessible—the raspberry perfume is virtually irresistible. Those berries are capably framed by cedary elements, but on the palate, the structure of the wine is taut, wiry and crisp. Drink it over the next few years for its fruity appeal. Old Bridge Cellars . — J.C. abv: 14% Price: $ 35

88 Miles From Nowhere 2011 Shiraz ( Mar-

garet River ). For full review see page 79. Best Buy . abv: 14.5% Price: $ 13

88 Taltarni 2009 Shiraz ( Pyrenees ). This mouth-fi lling Shiraz features plenty of weight

and texture and bold, plummy fl avors tinged with mo-cha and black olive. It’ll go great with a charred steak off the grill. Goelet Wine Estates . — J.C. abv: 14% Price: $ 21

88 Wakefi eld Estate 2006 St. Andrews Shi-

raz ( Clare Valley ). This full-bodied Shiraz is bulky and a bit loosely knit. The overtly smoky notes persist on the palate, vying with maple syrup and dark fruit fl avors. It’s a big, fl avorful wine that needs time to come together, so consume over the next few years. American Wine Distributors . — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 50

88 Yalumba 2009 Hand Picked Shiraz-Viog-

nier ( Eden Valley ). This is an attractive, me-dium-bodied wine. Tart berry fruit is framed by subtle oak shadings, and the tannins are supple, making it ap-proachable now. Negociants USA, Inc . — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 30

88 West Cape Howe 2009 Shiraz ( Western

Australia ). This Shiraz offers subtle peppery notes, ample cedary oak and cherry fruit. Tobacco and mint shadings give the fi nish a slightly medicinal edge, but this is a supple, charming Shiraz to drink over the next few years. The Vintner Group . — J.C. abv: 14% Price: $ 17

87 Evans & Tate 2011 Split River Shiraz

( Western Australia ). Surprisingly full bodied and beefy for a $10 wine, this boasts scents of asphalt, scorched coffee and plummy fruit that lightens to cher-ry with air. Drink it over the next several years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits . Best Buy . — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 10

87 Frankland Estate 2011 Rocky Gully Shi-

raz ( Frankland River ). This rather chunky wine boasts some delicious raspberry notes, but it also comes across as slightly clumsy, like an American foot-ball player taking a turn at a society ball. It’s full fl avored and its dusty tannins will work well with grilled steaks. Drink now–2018. Quintessential Wines . — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 25

87 Mitolo 2009 Reiver Shiraz ( Barossa Val-

ley ). Mint marks the nose of this otherwise darkly attractive wine. Notes of mocha and plum nice-ly set up the wine, as do the supple tannins, but then there’s a jarring edge of prickly acidity that cuts across the palate and disrupts the fl ow. There are some nice parts here that don’t quite come together. Vintus LLC . — J.C. abv: 14.9% Price: $ 53

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

93 Kilikanoon 2009 Blocks Road Cabernet

Sauvignon ( Clare Valley ). For full review see page 72. Editors’ Choice . abv: 14% Price: $ 30

92 D’Arenberg 2009 The Coppermine Road

Cabernet Sauvignon ( McLaren Vale ). For full review see page 73. Cellar Selection . abv: 14.5% Price: $ 65

92 Moss Wood 2008 Moss Wood Vineyard

Cabernet Sauvignon ( Margaret River ).

The Moss Wood Cabernets are typically full-bodied and rather lush, and the 2008 is no exception. The tannins are fully ripe, giving the impression of great suppleness in the mouth, while the fl avors blend plummy, fruity el-ements with meaty, savory ones. The fi nish is long and harmonious, suggesting ample longevity, although the wine is approachable now. Epicurean Wines . — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 101

92 Penfolds 2009 Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon ( South Australia ). Prices on all of Pen-folds’s bin range have surged, but at least in this case, the quality has kept pace. The 2009 Bin 407 is a wor-thy successor to the super 2008, offering more of the same cassis and blackberry fruit tinged with chocolate and mint. It’s full bodied and plush without being soft, ending on fi rm, dusty tannins that still manage to leave a mouthwatering sensation behind. Past Bin 407s have easily gone 10–15 years from vintage, and there’s no reason to suspect otherwise of this one. Treasury Wine Estates . Cellar Selection . — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 48

92 Vasse Felix 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon

( Margaret River ). Vasse Felix’s impressively consistent track record with Cabernet continues with the 2009, a mouth-fi lling, supple wine that still re-tains a modicum of structure. Bold cassis fruit is bal-anced by earthy, meaty complexity and fi nishes long and mouthwatering. Drinkable now, but it should hold eas-ily through 2020, and possibly longer. Negociants USA, Inc . Editors’ Choice . — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 38



way ). For full review see page 75. Editors’ Choice . abv: 14.5% Price: $ 21

91 Jacob’s Creek 2008 St. Hugo Cabernet

Sauvignon ( Coonawarra ). Yes, the same Ja-cob’s Creek that turns out vast quantities of drink-me-now wines at sub-$10 price points also makes this age-worthy Cabernet from Coonawarra fruit. The 2008 is a harmonious wine, blending notes of cassis, cigar box and vanilla into a richly textured, fairly tannic whole. Give it 4–5 years in the cellar. Pernod Ricard . Cellar Selection . — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 35

91 Ringbolt 2010 21 Barriques Cabernet

Sauvignon ( Margaret River ). Yalumba’s western outpost has been steadily improving the quality of its wines, and the 2010 21 Barriques represents its top wine to date. The dark fruit fl avors are accented by ample amounts of charred oak, but the fruit ultimately wins out. The result is a very drinkable, silky textured

WineMag.com | 93

wine with a long, toasty fi nish. Drink now–2020. Nego-ciants USA, Inc . Editors’ Choice . — J.C. abv: 13% Price: $ 40

91 Schild Estate 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon

( Barossa ). Despite being full bodied, this is a very drinkable example of Barossa Cabernet. It’s not very tannic, but instead offers mouthwatering supple-ness. Cherry and red currant fruit notes are under-scored by mocha shadings. The Australia-New Zealand Wine Connection . Editors’ Choice . — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 22

90 Angove 2008 Vineyard Select Cabernet

Sauvignon ( Coonawarra ). There’s an at-tractive minty note to this wine that some may fi nd too prominent, but the underlying cassis fruit is strong and the wine’s structure is fi rm. The tannins are even a bit chewy at this stage, so either give it a year or two to mel-low or pair it with some rare beef or lamb. Trinchero Family Estates . — J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 20

90 Cape Mentelle 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon

( Margaret River ). This is a cool, restrained style of Cabernet, which nonetheless manages to pull in ripe fl avors of cassis and chocolate. The tannins are svelte and modestly textured, while the fl avors turn slightly tart on the cedary fi nish. Already approachable, but it should drink well through at least 2020. Moët Hennessy USA . — J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 70

90 Mitolo 2009 Serpico Cabernet Sauvignon

( McLaren Vale ). The grapes for this unique-ly styled Cabernet are partially dried prior to pressing, but there’s no overt sense of raisination to this wine. In-stead, it delivers crisp red fruit, hints of dried herbs and crushed tobacco. The ample tannins are a bit grainy in texture but should go nicely with rare beef or lamb. Vin-tus LLC . — J.C. abv: 15% Price: $ 72

90 Robert Oatley 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon

( Margaret River ). For full review see page 77. Editors’ Choice . abv: 14% Price: $ 20

90 Robert Oatley 2009 Finisterre Cabernet

Sauvignon ( Margaret River ). There’s a lot to like in this effort: ample dark fruit, complex notions of tea leaves and dried grasses, and a richly textured, long fi nish. The wine is medium bodied and not very tannic, making it easy to sip repeatedly. Drink it over the next 8–10 years. Robert Oatley Vineyards Inc . — J.C. abv: 14% Price: $ 30

90 West Cape Howe 2009 Book Ends Caber-

net Sauvignon ( Western Australia ). This is a solid value in the world of Cabernet. Textbook notes of cassis and mint lead the way, framed by supple tannins and dressed up with hints of graham crackers and black tea. This is medium to full in weight, with a mouthwa-tering, velvety fi nish that belies its price point. Drink

now–2020+. The Vintner Group . Editors’ Choice . — J.C. abv: 14% Price: $ 21

90 Yalumba 2010 Menzies The Cigar Caber-

net Sauvignon ( Coonawarra ). This is a me-dium-weight, supple Cabernet with bright acids that’s seemingly designed for early drinking. Perfumed notes of mint, vanilla, brown sugar and cassis lead the way, followed by similar fl avors and ample oak. Negociants USA, Inc . Editors’ Choice . — J.C. abv: 14.2% Price: $ 25



way ). A solidly built, rather chunky Cabernet, the 2009

Pillar Box Reserve delivers plummy fruit framed by va-nilla and tobacco notes. The tannins are a bit coarsely textured on the fi nish, but leave behind an appetizingly mouthwatering sensation. Drink now–2020. Quintes-sential Wines . — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 21

87 Miles From Nowhere 2010 Best Blocks

Cabernet Sauvignon ( Margaret River ).

This falls fi rmly into the category British writers used to call “luncheon claret,” being medium-bodied and easy to drink, with polite fl avors of dried herbs, just-ripe cherries and tobacco leaves. Drink it over the next few years. International Vines, Inc . — J.C. abv: 13.9% Price: $ 18

86 Evans & Tate 2011 Split River Cabernet

Sauvignon ( Western Australia ). This bar-gain-priced offering boasts cool, restrained Cabernet aromas of cassis and mint, with just a touch of tomato creeping in. It’s fairly weighty, with bold fl avors of Ri-bena on the palate and soft tannins on the fi nish. Drink now. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits . Best Buy . — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 10

ISRAEL

CHARDONNAY

89 Tzuba 2011 Chardonnay ( Judean Hills ).

Lively and balanced, this shows a wonderful in-terplay between the rich fruit fl avors of grilled pineap-ple and lightly baked red apple and the oaky tones of sweet spice, toasted cedar and peach pit nuttiness. The medium-weight mouthfeel is fi lling, but the medium acidity keeps the palate fresh and the fi nish bright. Ko-sher. Royal Wine Corporation . — L.B. abv: 13% Price: $ 24

88 Binyamina 2012 Reserve Unoaked Char-

donnay ( Judean Hills ). Here’s a fresh and fruit-forward selection, brimming with bright aromas and fl avors of white peach, clementine, yellow fl orals and a hint of fresh hay. Balanced and refreshing, the medium acidity provides good lift to the ripe fruit fl a-vors on the palate and keeps the fi nish light and clean. Drink up. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation . — L.B. abv: 13% Price: $ 19


BUYINGGUIDE

87 Pelter 2011 Unwooded Chardonnay ( Gal-

ilee ). Attractive aromas of red apple, yellow peach and lemon custard abound on the nose of this Chardonnay. The fl avors seem riper on the palate than the nose suggests, with notes of mealy melon and baked apple that remain through the medium-length fi nish. Drink now. T. Elenteny Imports . — L.B. abv: 12.7% Price: $ 28

86 Domaine du Castel 2011 C Blanc du Cas-

tel Chardonnay ( Judean Hills ). Typically a stand-out Israeli white, the 2011 vintage of this wine seems a bit fl abby and overdone. It still offers nice yet rich tones of orange creamsicle, buttered popcorn and custard, but the oak-derived notes of toasted hazelnut, vanilla cream and toasted sweet spice are a tad over-whelming, and the acidity doesn’t provide enough lift to keep it all balanced. Kosher. Royal Wine Corpora-tion . — L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 50

OTHER WHITE WINES

89 Carmel 2011 Single Vineyard Kayoumi

White Riesling ( Galilee ). Fragrant and fl o-ral, this Riesling shines with lively notes of honeydew melon, peach fl esh, clementine oil and a hint of petrol. Light weight and well balanced, with brisk acidity that lends a juicy, mouthwatering nature to the close. Ko-sher. Royal Wine Corporation . — L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 26

88 Flam 2012 Unoaked Blanc ( Judean

Hills ). A blend of 88% Sauvignon Blanc and 45% Chardonnay, this is bright and expressive, with for-ward aromas of white peach, yellow fl orals, fresh grass and sweet-orange citrus. Those notes carry through to the lively palate, with prickly acidity that keeps the fi n-ish crisp and clean. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation . — L.B. abv: 13% Price: $ 32

87 Shvo 2010 Chenin Blanc ( Upper Galilee ).

Here’s a refreshing and attractive Chenin Blanc that offers clean notes of ripe pear, green apple and honewdew melon alongside accents of cinnamon and white fl orals. The palate is light weight and vibrant, with lifting acidity that adds zest to the medium-length fi n-ish. T. Elenteny Imports . — L.B. abv: 14% Price: $ 35

86 Pelter 2011 Sauvignon Blanc ( Galilee ).

This is a fresh and easy selection, with low-in-tensity aromas and fl avors of tart gooseberry, lemon-lime citrus and soft grass. The mouthfeel is light and breezy, and the fi nish is clean and brisk. Drink now. T. Elenteny Imports . — L.B. abv: 11.5% Price: $ 28

CABERNET SAUVIGNON

88 Margalit 2010 Kadita Single Vineyard

Cabernet Sauvignon ( Galilee ). Here’s a ro-bust and jammy selection that offers assertive notes of

black plum, blackberry and cassis on the nose and in the mouth. The texture is like crushed velvet, with addi-tional nuances of licorice, fruitcake spice and light char, adding depth to the palate and length to the fi nish. T. Elenteny Imports . — L.B. abv: 14% Price: $ 75

88 Pelter 2009 T-Selection Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon ( Galilee ). Oak-derived aromas of va-nilla, sweet wood and toast are forward in the bouquet and mouth of this wine, but they’re supported by a solid core of lush black berry, cassis and plum notes. The pal-ate is round and mouthfi lling, with a creamy texture. T. Elenteny Imports . — L.B. abv: 15% Price: $ 65

86 Binyamina 2010 Yogev Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon ( Galilee ). Yogev, meaning “tiller of the soil,” is a friendly and easy-pleasing wine, with direct notes of cherry skins, fresh cassis and black currant leaf. Medium weight, with moderate acidity, fi ne tannins and a clean, fruit-driven fi nish. Drink now. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation . — L.B. abv: 13% Price: $ 15

RED BLENDS

92 Barkan 2010 Reichan Assemblage

( Galil ). For full review see page 73. Editors’

Choice . abv: 13.5% Price: $ 35

91 1848 Winery 2009 Special Reserve ( Gal-

ilee ). This is a dense and heady blend, made from 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 17% Petite Sirah. Black-currant leaf, black plum and boy-senberry notes lead the nose and mouth, with a light dusting of cocoa, baking spice and sweet oak adding depth to the palate. Medium weight, with a texture like crushed velvet and a bold, fl avorful fi nish. Drink now–2018. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation . — L.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $ 60

91 Barkan 2010 Eitan Assemblage ( Judean

Hills ). For full review see page 74. Cellar Se-

lection . abv: 13.5% Price: $ 35

90 Domaine du Castel 2010 Grand Vin ( Ju-

dean Hills ). Castel’s Grand Vin is a consistent Bordeaux-style blend that shows good depth and con-centration, as well as the promise to age gracefully. For-ward oaky notes of vanilla, toast and sweet spice domi-nate the nose, but the black-fruit core keeps it ground-ed. Flavors of cassis and black plum fl esh out the palate, and a peppery note lingers long on the fi nish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation . — L.B. abv: 15% Price: $ 70

90 Pelter 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon-Shiraz

( Galilee ). This is a balanced and complex fi f-ty-fi fty blend, with herbal accents of licorice root, cof-fee bean and foliage that mingle harmoniously with ripe fruit notes of blackberry, wild raspberry and cherry. Me-dium weight and lushly textured, but not overdone, with

a long fi nish that delivers light hints of mocha and pep-per. T. Elenteny Imports . — L.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $ 39

89 1848 Winery 2009 Reserve Cabernet-

Merlot ( Galilee ). This Cabernet-dominant blend is drinking young, with fi rm, gripping tannins and a tight structure. There’s plenty of black fruit fl avors to fl esh out the palate, along with complex nuances of lico-rice root, creme de cassis, cigar-box spice and a touch of bitter chocolate. Give it a few years in the cellar for the tannins to mellow a bit. Kosher. Royal Wine Corpora-tion . — L.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $ 40

89 Segal’s 2012 Fusion ( Galilee ). This blend of 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 20%

Cabernet Sauvignon is bright and balanced, with fruity notes of black plum and cherry dusted by accents of tobacco, licorice and lightly charred wood. Medium weight and enjoyable, the tannins are mouthcoating but fi ne and the fi nish deliciously spicy. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation . — L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 15

89 Yatir 2009 Red Wine ( Judean Hills ). This blend of 44% Shiraz, 34% Merlot and 22% Cab-

ernet Sauvignon boasts dense notes of black berry, cher-ry and raspberry on the nose and mouth, with soft hints of game, char and roasted cocoa nib. The mouthfeel is lush but lifted, with medium acidity and structured tannins that lend grip to the fi nish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation . — L.B. abv: 14% Price: $ 44

88 Barkan 2010 Tzafi t Assemblage ( Judean

Hills ). An interesting blend of 53% Marselan, 20% Caledoc, 15% Pinotage and 12% Carignan, this starts off a bit rubbery, but that quickly blows off to re-veal attractive scents of blackberry and plum fl esh. The medium-weight palate has a texture like crushed velvet and is loaded with ripe black-fruit fl avors, while accents of cocoa nib and tobacco unfold on the fi nish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation . — L.B. abv: 14% Price: $ 35

88 Binyamina 2011 Yogev Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon-Shiraz ( Samson ). This fi fty-fi fty blend is rich and ripe, with forward aromas and fl avors of red plum, blueberry and blackberry. Secondary accents of licorice root, black pepper and light toast add depth and interest. Silky and accessible, this is a surprisingly ap-proachable selection that’s ready to drink now. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation . — L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 15

88 Domaine du Castel 2010 Petit Castel ( Ju-

dean Hills ). This Bordeaux-style blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot and 5% Petit Ver-dot is shy and demure now, requiring a decant or time to air before opening up to reveal notes of red-plum fl esh, muddled raspberry and soft sweet spice. Medium weight, with soft tannins and an herbal fi nish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation . — L.B. abv: 15% Price: $ 50

WineMag.com | 95

88 Tzuba 2009 Metzuda ( Judean Hills ). This Bordeaux-style blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvi-

gnon, 15% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc is surpris-ingly open and accessible now, with forward aromas and fl avors of ripe brambly berry, forest, fresh tobacco leaf and a touch of espresso bean. The fi ne tannins lend an approachable texture to the wine, with a rich, jammy black-fruit fl avor lingering on the medium-length fi nish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation . — L.B. abv: 14% Price: $ 35

87 Recanati 2010 Reserve Petite Syrah-Zin-

fandel ( Galilee ). This is a jammy and plush selection that shows great intensity of fl avor and weight. Dark notes of black plum, blackberry and boysenberry fl ood the nose and mouth, with secondary tones of toast and chocolate. Thick and mouthcoating on the palate, this ends with a woody, chocolate-kissed fi nish. Kosher. Palm Bay International . — L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 26

86 Binyamina 2010 Yogev ( Galilee ). Made from 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Petit

Verdot, this is a ripe and lush wine that boasts big, jam-my black-fruit aromas and fl avors. Touches of licorice and sage add depth to the palate, while a soft toasty ac-cent lingers on the medium-length fi nish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation . — L.B. abv: 13% Price: $ 15

86 Domaine Netofa 2011 Tinto ( Galilee ).

Pretty fl oral aromas of violet, carnation and talc mingle with notes of raspberry and blackberry on the nose of this Tempranillo-Touriga Nacional blend. It’s plush and round on the palate, with mouthfi lling ripe fruit fl avors and spicy accents of toasted oak and vanilla bean. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation . — L.B. abv: 13.3% Price: $ 28

86 Shvo 2010 Red ( Upper Galilee ). This is a balanced and accessible wine, with fruity notes

of red plum and currant alongside hints of dried savory herbs and foliage. Medium weight, with fi ne tannins and a lingering fi nish that boasts a soft woody accent. T. Elenteny Imports . — L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 36

OTHER RED WINES

88 Margalit 2010 Binyamina Single Vineyard

Cabernet Franc ( Shomron ). Here’s a bright and attractive wine with aromas and fl avors of red cher-ry, plum and strawberry, accented by earthy hints of foli-age, forest fl oor and woody spice. Medium weight, with dusty, lingering tannins that persist through the fi nish. T. Elenteny Imports . — L.B. abv: 14% Price: $ 75

88 Tulip Winery 2010 Reserve Syrah ( Gali-

lee ). This wine starts off herbal and earthy, with forward aromas of pepper, tree bark and cherry tree. The palate is rich and velvety, with ripe notes of raspberry, blackberry and plum. Dusty tannins provide a nice texture, while the medium-length fi nish boasts

a spicy cocoa fl avor. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation . — L.B. abv: 15.5% Price: $ 42

85 Tzuba 2010 Pinot Noir ( Judean Hills ). A light brick color in the glass, this is an accessi-

ble selection that offers easy aromas and fl avors of red cherry, forest berry and a hint of rhubarb. Silky tannins dance on the palate, and a mocha fl avor lingers softly on the fi nish. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation . — L.B. abv: 14% Price: $ 28

AUSTRIA

BLAUFRÄNKISCH

92 Gernot and Heike Heinrich 2010 Blau-

fränkisch ( Leithaberg ). This is a sophisti-cated, richly textured wine that offers spice and solid tannins that are smoothed out by the wood aging. It’s complex rather than powerful, with a concentrated, juicy richness on the fi nish. Give this fi ne wine at least 4–6 years to mature. Glass stopper. Winebow . Cellar

Selection . — R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 45

92 Kollwentz 2009 Leithagebirge Blaufrän-

kisch ( Burgenland ). Aging for 18 months in oak has given this rich wine a smooth character, balanc-

ing juicy red berry fl avors with complex barnyard and wild undergrowth fl avors. The powerful combination demands aging even after four years, so give it another 3–4. VOS Selections . — R.V. abv: 14% Price: $ 38

91 Glatzer 2011 Reserve Blaufränkisch

( Carnuntum ). This is an impressive, solidly tannic wine that needs aging. The black plum fl avors are still dominated by spice and wood, lending a dry and dark character to the wine. Solid with good depths of fl avor, the wine should be kept for 4–5 years before opening. Michael Skurnik Wines . Cellar Selection . — R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $ NA

91 Steindorfer 2011 Alte Reben Blaufrän-

kisch ( Burgenland ). BIg, bold and ripe, this wine has juicy blackberry fl avors, sweet tannins and lay-ers of refreshing acidity. With everything so vivid at the moment, it’s obvious it needs time. You could give it 4–5

years in the cellar, although if fruitiness is your pleasure, then drink this wine sooner. Select Wines . — R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 34

89 Gernot and Heike Heinrich 2011 Blau-

fränkisch ( Burgenland ). This is a juicy, fruity wine that’s just hinting at the spice typical to Blau-fränkisch. Intense blackberry fl avors are balanced by a

The Appassimento method of

drying grapes on bamboo racks

to concentrate aromas and tastes is

traditional for the Venetiae area.

certifi es Masi’s expertise in

this technique in the XXI century, on each

bottle. Masi is an historic producer, open

to innovation, and has re-interpreted

appassimento with modernity and

originality to make its fi ve Amarone

wines. Costasera is the modern Amarone,

symbol of majesty and elegance.

Gargagnago di Valpolicella - Verona - Italy - www.masi.itUS Importer: Folio Fine Wine Partners, The Michael Mondavi Family, Napa, CA - www.foliowine.com

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BUYINGGUIDE

leathery texture, bold acidity, and soft tannins. Probably ready to drink in a year. Glass stopper. Winebow . — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ 25

87 Glatzer 2011 Blaufränkisch ( Carnuntum ).

Pepper and spice notes accent this soft, ripe and full-bodied wine with forward black-fruit fl avors. It ex-hibits typical Blaufränkisch characteristics of leather and pepper to go with the fruits, but this rich wine is not for aging. Drink now. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik Wines . — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ NA

ST. LAURENT

90 Steindorfer 2011 Reserve St. Laurent

( Burgenland ). The small quantities of St Lau-rent produced in Austria show the grape’s great poten-tial. This is a very fruity wine with a dry core and fi ne sense of structure. Full of red fruits, spice and tannin, it’s likely to age for 2–4 years. Select Wines . — R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $ NA

89 Glatzer 2011 Altenberg St. Laurent ( Car-

nuntum ). This intensely juicy wine is packed with red berry fruits, soft tannins and a light touch of wood. It is already a delicious, forward wine that’s ripe and full bodied. It could age well for another 2–3 years. Michael Skurnik Wines . — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ NA

88 Gernot and Heike Heinrich 2011 St. Lau-

rent ( Burgenland ). From vines on the slopes of the north-west corner of Lake Neusiedl, this is a broad, juicy wine. It has red cherry fl avors, soft, gener-ous tannins and attractively balanced acidity. It’s not a wine for long-term aging and is likely to be at its best in three years. Glass stopper Winebow . — R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 37

86 Fischer 2009 Classic St. Laurent ( Ther-

menregion ). This perfumed, juicy wine ex-hibts attractive red plum and blackberry fl avors. Touch-es of herbs show a fragrant side to the wine, while acid-ity acts as a foil to the ripe fruits. Ready to drink now. Screwcap. Vignaioli . — R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 24

PINOT NOIR

87 Anton Bauer 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir

( Wagram-Donauland ). Very pale in color, this is a fruity, fragrant wine. It has acidity, red fruits and a leathery texture. There is something of the un-dergrowth here, an earthy character that needs time to broaden out. Give the wine 4–5 years. Prescott Wines . — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ NA

87 Graf Hardegg 2009 Vom Schlossen Pinot

Noir ( Niederösterreich ). This light colored, ripe wine has a fragrant raspberry fl avor laced with a more earthy character. Great juiciness leads into a soft and rounded texture with a bitter cherry aftertaste. Not

for aging, ready to drink. Screwcap. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd . — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ NA

ZWEIGELT

92 Glatzer 2011 Rubin Carnuntum Zweigelt

( Carnuntum ). Rubin is the name used in Car-nuntum for those wines that have been judged by other producers in the region. Walter Glatzer’s Rubin is solid, dark, concentrated and rich. It has the smoothness of wood aging while retaining its Bing-cherry and black-currant fl avors. With its fi rm character, it needs some aging for four years and more. Michael Skurnik Wines . Cellar Selection . — R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $ NA

91 Glatzer 2011 Dornenvogel Zweigelt ( Car-

nuntum ). This hard-edged wine has bitter chocolate as well as black-currant fl avors. Quite young at this stage, this is a dark, powerful, concentrated wine that has both great fruit and a dense structure. Give it four years to mature. Michael Skurnik Wines . — R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $ NA

91 Hannes Reeh 2011 Unplugged Zweigelt

( Burgenland ). This is a bold wine with spice and pepper, but also great, juicy black fruits. The palate is rich—not too heavy—with layered blackberries and acidity over soft tannins. It’s worth aging for 3–5 years but can be drunk now for its fruitiness. Acid Inc Selec-tions . Editors’ Choice . — R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 26

90 Kollwentz 2010 Föllikberg Zweigelt ( Bur-

genland ). This is a big, bold and fruity wine that’s full of black fruits, dark plums and rich berries. It has a juicy character over fi rm, dense tannins from the Föllikberg Vineyard on the west side of Neusiedlersee. It is dark and dry, and likely to benefi t from at least four years’ aging. VOS Selections . — R.V. abv: 14% Price: $ 35

89 Gernot and Heike Heinrich 2011 Zweigelt

( Burgenland ). A wine made from 30-year old vines, this is fi rm, solid and tannic. It feels weighty with a smooth texture that burrows deep into the black fruits and acidity. Fine acidity and a layer of spice complete this attractive wine that is worth aging for 3–5 years. Glass stopper Winebow . — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ 25

89 Hannes Reeh 2011 Zweigelt ( Neusiedler-

see ). The second of the two Zweigelts pro-duced by Reeh, this is more structured. It is dark and dense, full of fi rm tannins and with a mineral texture. The mouthfeel is chewy, with fi ne acidity shooting through from the background. Best for aging over 1–3

years. Screwcap. Acid Inc Selections . — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ 32

88 Glatzer 2011 Riedencuvée Zweigelt ( Car-

nuntum ). A solidly structured wine, this is fi rm in both its tannins and in its mineral texture. Black cher-ry fl avors are combined with a dense, dry core to give

a wine that’s both fruity now and worth aging for 1–3

years. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik Wines . — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ NA

86 Hermann Moser 2009 Zweigelt ( Nie-

derösterreich ). This rounded, dry wine is full of red berry fl avor, a layer of dark tannins and attractive spiciness. It’s a full wine, ready to drink with its juicy acidity at the end. Screwcap. Boutique Wine Collec-tion . — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ NA

86 R&A Pfaffl 2011 Austrian Cherry Zwei-

gelt ( Niederösterreich ). This juicy wine is smoky with wood aging. Black cherry fl avors live up to the name, giving a freshness to this fl avorful wine. It’s not a complex wine, but has a ripe, forward, open feel—just pleasure. Screwcap. Palm Bay International . — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ 14

85 Pratsch 2011 Zweigelt ( Niederöster-

reich ). This wine is marked by straightforward red fruit fl avors, light tannins, a touch of stalkiness and a spicy edge. It’s a great wine for barbecues this summer. Screwcap. Winesellers Ltd . — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ 14 / 1 L

RED BLENDS

92 Gernot and Heike Heinrich 2010 Panno-

bile ( Burgenland ). This is a blend of Zwei-gelt and Blaufränkisch selected at a tasting of other winemakers around the Gols region. The wine is struc-tured and concentrated, but not heavy, with a good juicy depth of fl avor and solid tannins. Black currants and black plums dominate this serious, ageworthy wine. Glass stopper. Winebow . Cellar Selection . — R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 55

90 Hannes Reeh 2011 Rot Heideboden

( Burgenland ). This smooth, wood-aged wine is richly tannic and packed with new wood fl avors. Ripe red berries offer fruitiness and acidity. It has a fi ne depth of fl avor and density, making it likely to age for several years, at least four. Screwcap. Acid Inc Selec-tions . — R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 18

90 Spaetrot Gebeshuber 2011 Grosse Re-

serve ( Thermenregion ). A wood-aged blend of Pinot Noir and Saint Laurent, this is a ripe, smooth, perfumed wine. It has juicy red fruits laced with acid-ity, toast and a fi rm structure of fruit tannins. Give this wine at least three years to develop. Screwcap. Vignai-oli . — R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 28

90 Wieninger 2010 Wiener Trilogy ( Vienna ).

Wieninger’s blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot is a fi nely structured wine. It has black currant fl avor, fi rm tannins, and a dark core of dryness. Wood aging has lifted the fruits and acidity and added a sense of elegance. It’s for aging over 4–6 years. Screwcap. Winebow . Cellar Selection . — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ 30

WineMag.com | 97

86 Arachon 2009 Evolution ( Burgenland ).

This heavily wood-aged wine shows layers of concentrated toast, extracted chocolate and black plum fl avors. The wine is big and rich with a bitterness com-ing from the wood. It needs another 2–3 years to round out fully. Weygandt-Metzler . — R.V. abv: 14% Price: $ NA

85 Strauss 2012 Red ( Steiermark ). A rare red from the hilly region of Styria, this is light and

fruity with spice and acidity. Red berry fl avors dominate although a dry edge brings a fi rmer structure. Screwcap. Select Wines . — R.V. abv: 12% Price: $ NA

GERMANY

RHEINGAU

96 Robert Weil 2010 Kiedrich Gräfenberg

Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese ( Rhein-

gau ). Honey and smoke mix seductively on this pierc-ingly bright yet intensely rich TBA full of orange mar-malade and sweet peach nectar. It’s unctuously honeyed but delicately textured on the palate. It’s earthy mineral-ity should deepen considerably over the next ten years. Loosen Bros. USA . Cellar Selection . — A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $ 672 / 375 ml

95 Robert Weil 2010 Kiedrich Turmberg

Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese ( Rhe-

ingau ). Rich, sweet honey mingles with spicy dried orange-peel and wax notes on this delectably creamy, marmalade-laden TBA. The palate brims with luscious-ly sweet preserved-peach fl avors balanced by piercing citrus acidity and a long honey-kissed fi nish. Stunning now, but what a joy to keep for the next decade or two. Loosen Bros. USA . Cellar Selection . — A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $ 672 / 375 ml


Riesling Beerenauslese ( Rheingau ). Sa-vory, rather austere aromas of fresh herbs, lemon and honeycomb belie the intensity of sweet, rich tangerine and peach preserves on this decadent, yet light-as-a-feather Beerenauslese. Tart, citrus acidity extends the orange marmalade fi nish. Enjoy now for it’s ethereal juiciness, or hold back a decade or two to deepen its waxy, honeyed tones. Loosen Bros. USA . Cellar Selec-

tion . — A.I. abv: 7% Price: $ 322 / 375 ml

94 Schloss Vollrads 2010 Riesling Beere-

nauslese ( Rheingau ). Whiffs of orange blos-soms add delicate fl oral fl air to sweet marmalade and honey tones on this penetrating dessert Riesling. While creamy and sweet on the tongue, earthy mineral tones and piercing acidity add balance and structure. It’s de-licious now, but certainly an age-worthy wine that will develop gorgeously over the next two decades at least. Schmitt-Sohne Inc . Cellar Selection . — A.I. abv: 6.5% Price: $ 200 / 375 ml

93 August Kesseler 2011 Rüdesheim Berg

Roseneck Erstes Gewächs Riesling

( Rheingau ). Stunningly complex, this dry, richly tex-tured Riesling undulates between lush, fruity pre-served-peach fl avor, and a deeply rippling minerality. Lime-pith and wax tones add elegance and astringen-cy to a fi nish that’s kissed with honey and orange peel. Vineyard Brands . — A.I. abv: 13% Price: $ 75

93 Robert Weil 2010 Kiedrich Turmberg

Riesling Beerenauslese ( Rheingau ).

While a bit subdued on the nose, the tiniest sip reveals the power and intensity of this rich, decadent Beere-nauslese. Delicate in frame, yet gorgeously concentrat-ed, the palate is packed with wildfl ower honey and tan-gerine sweetness, countered by earthier notes of nuts,

smoke and a wet-stone minerality. Loosen Bros. USA . Cellar Selection . — A.I. abv: 7.5% Price: $ 322 / 375 ml

92 Johannishof 2011 Rüdesheim Berg

Rottland Erstes Gewächs Riesling ( Rhe-

ingau ). While dry in style, this voluptuous Riesling is concentrated with richly extracted stone-fruit and grapefruit fl avors. A fl oral perfume persists from start to fi nish, accompanied by an elegant saline minerality. Valckenberg International, Inc . — A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 69


Erstes Gewächs Riesling Trocken ( Rhe-


BUYINGGUIDE

ingau ). This dry Riseling is richly mouthfi lling and in-tensely mineral, with delicate stone-fruit fl avors that mingle with notes of wax and orange rind. It’s lush and full bodied, but balanced with tart lemon acidity and a dry-ing astringency on the fi nish. Loosen Bros. USA . — A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 80

90 Johannishof 2011 Johannisberg Hölle

Erstes Gewächs Riesling ( Rheingau ).

Dried herb and spice aromas lend a savory tone to the nose, but the palate on this Riesling is lush with in-tensely ripened apricot and yellow-peach fruitiness. It’s dry in style, yet luscious in body with a slightly herba-ceous, mineral-rich fi nish. Valckenberg International, Inc . — A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 69

RHEINHESSEN

90 Rheingraf 2011 Riesling Trocken ( Rhein-

hessen ). Whiffs of slate and petrol add nuance to white fl ower and pineapple aromas on this intensely minerally, dry Riesling. The palate is lush and full with ripe nectarine fl avor, freshened with a swathe of fresh green herbs on the fi nish. Valckenberg International, Inc . — A.I. abv: 13% Price: $ 25

89 Louis Guntrum 2011 Nierstein Rehbach

Riesling Spätlese ( Rheinhessen ). Redo-lent of honey and ripe tropical fruit, this semi-dry Ries-ling is lusciously fruity on the palate, but braced with elegant black-tea tones and a long, lime-juice fi nish. Beautifully structured and effortlessly quaffable. Broad-bent Selections, Inc . — A.I. abv: 10% Price: $ 22

89 Weingut Liebfrauenstift 2010 Liebfrauen-

stift-Kirchenstück Riesling Trocken ( Rhe-

inhessen ). There’s subdued elegance to this dry, lush-ly textured Riesling. The nose is delicately aromatic with whiffs of stonefruit and smoke that build on the palate. Intensely minerally and bright with lime acidity, it fi nishes long with a rich, slightly viscous mouthfeel. Valckenberg International, Inc . — A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 63

88 Weingut Georg Albrecht Schneider 2011

Niersteiner Hipping Riesling Spätlese

( Rheinhessen ). Intensely aromatic, intensely fruity, this Riesling packs a powerful punch of fl avor within a delicate frame. The fruit profi le is tropical with con-centrated guava and mango fl avors spiced with hints of white pepper. It’s semi-sweet in style, but bracing acid-ity leaves the fi nish quite dry. Winesellers Ltd . — A.I. abv: 9% Price: $ 18

88 Weingut Liebfrauenstift 2011 Dry Ries-

ling ( Rheinhessen ). The fruit profi le on this Riesling is crisp and fresh with elegant hints of under-ripe peach and pineapple. Dry and full bodied with a broad, feathery texture on the palate, it’s brisk with min-erality and a delicate lime acidity. Valckenberg Interna-tional, Inc . — A.I. abv: 12% Price: $ 19

87 Dr. Heyden 2011 Oppenheimer Sack-

träger Riesling Spätlese ( Rheinhessen ). Whiffs of spice accent scents of dried herb on this lus-ciously ripe semi-dry Riesling. The palate is rich with tropical fruit fl avors off set by sharp lemon acidity and hints of dark mineral. A delectably ripe wine that fi n-ishes remarkably dry. Winesellers Ltd . — A.I. abv: 11% Price: $ 18

87 Louis Guntrum 2011 Dry Riesling ( Rhe-

inhessen ). Crisp white peach and fl oral notes are tinged with shades of wax on this this dry, full-bod-ied Riesling. There’s a touch of spritz still on the palate that adds vibe and refreshment. Broadbent Selections, Inc . — A.I. abv: 12% Price: $ 15

87 Trullo 2011 Riesling ( Rheinhessen ). In-tensely fruity, this off-dry Riesling boasts a

bounty of superripe tropical fruit, and even a hint of red berries. It’s soft and lush on the palate with a caramel-ized, glycerine-like texture, but balanced with brisk tan-gerine acidity. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc . Best Buy . — A.I. abv: 11% Price: $ 11

FRANKEN

89 Castell 2010 Casteller Schlossberg Sil-

vaner Trocken GG ( Franken ). Dried herb notes are prominent on this elegant, mineral-laden Sil-vaner. It’s dry in style with a rich, round mouthfeel and understated tones of lemon, white peach and quince. Finishes long on a refreshingly green note. Valckenberg International, Inc . — A.I. abv: 13% Price: $ 63

88 Castell 2010 Casteller Schlossberg Ries-

ling Trocken ( Franken ). Smoke and dried-herb notes lend an intensely savory tone to this dry Riesling from Franken. It’s profoundly minerally on the palate, but brightened by crisp citrus acidity that lin-gers on the fi nish. A savory companion to hearty pork or chicken dishes. Valckenberg International, Inc . — A.I. abv: 12% Price: $ 76

88 Castell 2011 Silvaner Trocken ( Franken ).

This dry Silvaner balances a crisp, lean fruit pro-fi le of white peach, lime and green apple, with a palate that’s full, voluptuous and weighty. It’s intensely min-erally, with a slight mineral-oil slick, but fi nishes clean with brisk lemon and citrus pith notes. Valckenberg In-ternational, Inc . — A.I. abv: 12% Price: $ 18

88 Dr. Heyden 2011 Alte Reben Silvaner

Trocken ( Rheinhessen ). This wine is fasci-nating on the nose with notes of ripe tropical fruit and heather mixed with dark, earthy scents of wax and lano-lin. Dry in style with a rich, weighty mouthfeel, it fi n-ishes mysteriously with a smoky, fl oral fl air. Winesellers Ltd . Best Buy . — A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 13

87 Castell 2011 Kugelspiel Silvaner Trocken

( Franken ). Brisk lemon and fresh herb tones make this dry, mineral-rich wine an elegant choice for pairing with herbaceous foods. Rich and round on the palate, it’s balanced by bright acidity and a dusty crushed-stone note that lingers long on the fi nish. Valckenberg International, Inc . — A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 28

87 Castell 2009 Apriles Silvaner ( Franken ).

Ripe with fruit and spicy with mysterious hints of nutmeg and vanilla, this dry, but honey-toned Silvan-er is intense and sultry on the palate. It’s viscous and rich in texture, with plush, almost overripe fruit tones, and a soft acidity that lingers on the fi nish. Valckenberg International, Inc . — A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $ NA

BADEN

89 Franz Keller 2010 Schwarzer Adler Franz

Anton Pinot Noir ( Baden ). Hints of graph-ite and dried herbs add complexity to bright cherry and plum fl avors on this elegant showcase for German Pinot Noir. The palate is concentrated with ripe fruit, brisk acidity and a focused minerality, with a hint of saline on the fi nish. Schmitt-Sohne Inc . Editors’ Choice . — A.I. abv: 13% Price: $ 42

88 Franz Keller 2010 Schwarzer Adler Pinot

Noir ( Baden ). Understated and elegant, this is a mineral-intense Pinot Noir with focused granite notes against a backdrop of tart sour-cherries and vio-let fl orals. It’s austere in style, but lovely to sip, with a fi nish marked with soft, dusty tannins. Schmitt-Sohne Inc . — A.I. abv: 13% Price: $ 25

88 Huber 2010 Malterdinger Pinot Noir

Trocken ( Baden ). While expressive on the nose with scents of dried cherries, potpourri and spice, the palate on this Pinot Noir is rather savory and aus-tere. Fresh with green herbs and a tart sour-cherry pro-fi le, it makes a brisk companion to an array of light meat and game dishes. Valckenberg International, Inc . — A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 49

88 Huber 2010 Trocken Pinot Noir ( Baden ).

Charred wood and smoke cast a veil over high-toned red-cherry fl avors on this pretty, fl oral Pinot Noir. The palate is delicate in fl avor concentration, but struc-tured squarely with bristling acidity and soft, dusty tan-nins. Valckenberg International, Inc . — A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 37

PIEDMONT

BARBARESCO

95 Cascina delle Rose 2010 Tre Stelle ( Bar-

baresco ). This gorgeous, single-vineyard Barbaresco has an enticing Nebbiolo perfume of for-est fl oor, Alpine herbs, ripe berry, truffl e and a hint of leather. The palate delivers cherry notes sprinkled with

WineMag.com | 99

spice, and shows great depth and balance. It’s elegant and already shows mesmerizing complexity. Editors’

Choice . — K.O. abv: 14% Price: $ 60

95 Gaja 2010 Barbaresco . Gaja’s classic Bar-baresco is gorgeous in 2010, showing an intense

perfume of violet, earth and ripe red fruits punctuated by balsamic notes. The palate delivers rich wild cherry notes layered with mint, cinnamon and eucalyptus. This is structured and elegant and will develop more com-plexity over time. Drink this after 2018. Terlato Wines International . Cellar Selection . — K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 255

94 Adriano Marco & Vittorio 2010 Sanadaive

( Barbaresco ). This Barbaresco offers quint-essential Nebbiolo aromas of red rose, leather and ber-ry along with succulent cherry and raspberry fl avors lay-ered with spice, sage and Alpine herbs. It’s wonderfully balanced, with bracing but fi ne tannins and fresh acid-ity, and will develop additional complexity with more bottle age. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd . Editors’

Choice . — K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 28

94 Cascina delle Rose 2010 Rio Sordo ( Bar-

baresco ). Cascina delle Rose is one of the de-nomination’s brightest gems and its Rio Sordo is a text-book Barbaresco. It has an alluring and multifaceted bouquet of lilac, violet and wisteria, along with hints of spice, truffl e and earth. The palate is focused, with in-tense cherry and spice notes balanced by fi rm but fi ne tannins and freshness. It already shows ample complex-ity and will age beautifully. — K.O. abv: 14% Price: $ 50

94 Castello di Neive 2010 Santo Stefano Al-

besani ( Barbaresco ). This single-vineyard Barbaresco from the hallowed Santo Stefano hill shows its pedigree with alluring fragrances of violet, rose, iris and forest fl oor. The palate impresses with a core of ripe wild cherry and raspberry, along with notes of white pepper and cinnamon. Fresh acidity and bracing but el-egant tannins mark it as still young and primary, with a perfect structure for aging. Winebow . Cellar Selec-

tion . — K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 65

94 Produttori del Barbaresco 2008 Vigneti in

Muncagota Riserva ( Barbaresco ). For full review see page 72. Cellar Selection . abv: 14.5% Price: $ 62

93 Albino Rocca 2010 Duemiladieci ( Bar-

baresco ). This elegant Barbaresco has an in-tensely fl oral bouquet of rose, violet and iris, plus whiffs of sage and balsam. The palate offers juicy, wild cher-ry fl avors punctuated with truffl e, and balsamic notes of Alpine herbs. It’s impeccably balanced, with ample length. Editors’ Choice . — K.O. abv: 14% Price: $ 45

93 Bel Colle 2008 Riserva ( Barbaresco ).

This bold Barbaresco opens with aromas of truf-fl e, porcini mushroom, leather and a hint of rose pet-

al. The palate delivers ripe cherry fl avors layered with clove and white pepper. It’s well balanced, with elegant tannins, and while it’s delicious now, it will age well for at least a decade. Premium Brands . — K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $ NA

93 Castello di Verduno 2010 Rabajà ( Bar-

baresco ). This elegant but structured Bar-baresco has a lovely and complex perfume of lilac, vio-let and underbrush. The palate expresses delicious sour cherry and black cherry fl avors layered with mint, cin-namon and a hint of orange peel. This is still young and needs a few more years in bottle. — K.O. abv: 14% Price: $ 68

93 Giuseppe Cortese 2010 Rabajà ( Bar-

baresco ). From one of Barbaresco’s top es-tates, this single-vineyard bottling has intensely fl oral and balsamic fragrances and delicious cherry-berry and spice fl avors. Its tannins are fi rm but elegant, and while still tightly wound, this will be drinking beautifully after 2015. Winebow . — K.O. abv: 14% Price: $ 55

93 Olek Bondonio 2010 Roncagliette ( Bar-

baresco ). This delicious single-vineyard Bar-baresco is loaded with juicy black-cherry and raspber-ry notes layered with mint, carob and white pepper. It has big but ripe tannins balanced by lovely acidity and a long fi nish. This should gain more complexity over the next few years. Tanaro River Imports LLC . — K.O. abv: 14% Price: $ 70

93 Produttori del Barbaresco 2008 Rio Sor-

do Riserva ( Barbaresco ). Made by what is one of Italy’s best co-operative cellars, this riserva from the legendary Rio Sordo vineyard offers intense under-brush aromas of truffl e, pine forest, leather and balsam-ic notes. The palate has a core of juicy black cherries layered with cinnamon-spice and shows plenty of depth. Drink this after 2018 to let it develop more complexity. Vias Imports . — K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 62

93 Rizzi 2010 Pajoré ( Barbaresco ). This Pa-joré bottling shows a combination of structure

and fi nesse. It opens with fl oral, earthy and balsamic aromas, while the palate expresses ripe but restrained cherry, spice and sage notes. The tannins are fi rm but fi ne, and this will gain complexity with more bottle age. David Bowler Wine . — K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 58

93 Ugo Lequio 2010 Gallina ( Barbaresco ).

Ugo Lequio fl ies below the radar but deserves the attention of Nebbiolo lovers thanks to his consistent quality. His Gallina shows delicious wild cherry, mint and balsamic notes layered with truffl e and a touch of espresso. Still very young, this will open up beautifully in a couple of years and develop even more complexity. Vino Direct . Editors’ Choice . — K.O. abv: 14% Price: $ 30

92 Adriano Marco & Vittorio 2010 Basarin

( Barbaresco ). This single-vineyard Barbaresco has both structure and elegance. The bouquet is layered

with forest fl oor, violet, rose and berry, while the palate delivers ripe cherry, white pepper, cinnamon and mint fl avors. The tannins are still youthful and tight, so drink this after 2015. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd . — K.O. abv: 14% Price: $ 40

92 Barale Fratelli 2010 Serraboella ( Bar-

baresco ). With its fl oral, fruit, spice and truf-fl e fragrances, this is an alluring Barbaresco. The palate doesn’t disappoint, thanks to juicy black-cherry fl avors sprinkled with spices and Alpine herbs. The texture is silky smooth and leads to an elegant fi nish. Chambers Street Wines . — K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 58

92 Fontanabianca 2010 Serraboella ( Bar-

baresco ). This classically crafted Barbaresco shows earthy, fl oral fragrances of rose, spice, freshly tilled soil and licorice. The palate is restrained and el-egant, with wild black cherry, white pepper and mint notes all nicely balanced by fi rm but refi ned tannins. Tellitalia Imports . — K.O. abv: 14% Price: $ 55

92 Nada Giuseppe 2010 Casot ( Barbares-

co ). Giuseppe Nada and his son Enrico have produced an earthy and gripping Barbaresco, with fl o-ral, truffl e aromas punctuated with Alpine herbs. The palate shows layers of dark cherry-berry fruit, balsamic notes of sage and mint, all backed up by a fi rmly tannic backbone. Best after 2016. American Northwest Dis-tributors Inc . — K.O. abv: 14% Price: $ 30

92 Negro Angelo e Figli 2010 Cascinotta

( Barbaresco ). From the Basarin vineyard area in the village of Neive, this shows power and fi -nesse in its typical Nebbiolo sensations of underbrush, fl oral notes and truffl e. The palate has creamy dark-cherry fruit layered with spices and balsamic herbs and a long fi nish. It will develop fully over the next few years and should age well. The Piedmont Guy . — K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 50

92 Oddero 2010 Gallina ( Barbaresco ). This single-vineyard Barbaresco opens with toasted

oak aromas uplifted by rose and spice sensations. The palate is loaded with juicy cherry and raspberry punctu-ated by white pepper and cinnamon notes. This is very elegant, with fi rm but fi ne tannins and plenty of length. Soilair Selection . — K.O. abv: 14% Price: $ 52

92 Poderi Colla 2010 Roncaglie ( Barbares-

co ). This single-vineyard Barbaresco opens with classic Nebbiolo aromas of violet, rose, spice and berry. The palate shows bright cherry and white pepper fl avors and notes of menthol and eucalyptus. This is still young and tightly wound, but should age wonderfully. Montcalm Wine Importers . — K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 70

91 Albino Rocca 2010 Ronchi ( Barbaresco ).

Albino Rocca’s Barbaresco Ronchi boasts lovely violet and sage aromas sprinkled with coffee and espres-so notes. The palate shows creamy red fruit layered with


BUYINGGUIDE

chocolate and spice and fi rm but refi ned tannins. This is very elegant but still a bit shy, so best to drink it after 2014. — K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 60

91 Castello di Neive 2010 Gallina ( Barbares-

co ). From one of Barbaresco’s most respected houses, this Gallina bottling shows class and breeding in its aromas of forest fl oor, porcini mushroom and tobac-co. The palate is delicious, offering bright berry, licorice and spice and a hint of orange peel. This is structured and refi ned but needs time to fully develop. — K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $ NA

91 Rivetto 2010 Cé Vanin ( Barbaresco ). This shows an intriguing bouquet of violet and truf-

fl e, with hints of meat juices thrown in for good mea-sure. The palate is long and linear, delivering ripe berry, mint and peppery notes. The tannins are still tight and need a few more years to soften. Voliovino . — K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 40

91 Tenute Cisa Asinari dei Marchesi di

Gresy 2010 Martinenga ( Barbaresco ).

This single-vineyard Barbaresco offers underbrush and tobacco leaf aromas layered with toast, espresso and oak. The palate is succulent, featuring black cherry, lic-orice, spice and eucalyptus notes. Nicely balanced, but still young and aggressive; best after 2015. Dalla Terra Winery Direct . — K.O. abv: 14% Price: $ 55

90 Prunotto 2010 Bric Turot ( Barbaresco ).

For full review see page 77. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 65

90 San Biagio 2010 Montersino ( Barbares-

co ). Here’s a Barbaresco with fragrant and fl o-ral aromas of violet, rose, ripe berry and oak. The palate still needs to open up, but already shows bright cherry, strawberry and white pepper. This is vibrant, with brac-ing tannins that need time to soften. Best after 2018. Simply Stated Wines . — K.O. abv: 14% Price: $ 50

89 Fontanabianca 2010 Bordini ( Barbares-

co ). This Barbaresco has an unusual but ap-pealing fragrance of incense, exotic spice and black fruit. The palate shows more classic Nebbiolo charac-ters of cherry and spice, as well as oak-driven sensations of roasted coffee bean and vanilla. Tellitalia Imports . — K.O. abv: 14% Price: $ 62

SOUTHWEST FRANCE

CAHORS

95 Clos Troteligotte 2011 K-2 Malbec ( Ca-

hors ). An expressive wine, with solid, dense and powerful tannins. With spice, a leather, dry textured feel, perfumed fruits supporting it, this is a wine for the seriously long-term. It is black, solid, an impressive evo-cation of the structure of great Malbec in Cahors. Keep

for at least eight years. Authentique Vin . Cellar Selec-

tion . — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ 60

95 Jean-Luc Baldès 2010 Clos Triguedina

Les Galets Malbec ( Cahors ). From the sun-drenched third terrace of vines above the river Lot, this magnifi cent wine is the star of the three single par-cel vines from Jean-Luc Baldès. It has the densest tex-ture, very fi rm, concentrated and dark. Spice, coffee and blackberry fl avors are all fi nely integrated; this wine will age for at least a decade. Cynthia Hurley Wine Im-ports . Editors’ Choice . — R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 33

94 Jean-Luc Baldès 2010 The New Black

Wine Malbec ( Cahors ). This revival of a me-dieval practice of heating the grapes before fermenta-tion giving an almost black color has produced a wine that has dried fruit aromas, intense and chewy black fruits on the palate and layer upon layer of tannins inter-spersing the fruit. Obviously a wine of this power needs many years—10 and more. Cynthia Hurley Wine Im-ports . Cellar Selection . — R.V. abv: 14% Price: $ 70

93 Clos Troteligotte 2011 K Malbec ( Ca-

hors ). The core of the “K” range, this wine shows its wood and tannins right up front. It’s certainly powerful, with a sense of concentrated black fruits be-hind the fi rm and dry structure. A dark and brooding wine, this has enormous potential, so give it at least six years. Authentique Vin . — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ 39

93 Domaine de Cause 2010 La Lande Cavag-

nac Malbec ( Cahors ). Ink black in color, this is a powerful expression of Malbec. It shows both the intense blackberry fruits and dark plum skins as well as the solid, condensed tannins. Together, these elements have produced a dense, ageworthy wine. Keep for 5–6

years. Bird Rock Imports . Cellar Selection . — R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 20


Au Coin du Bois Malbec ( Cahors ). One of the series of three single parcel wines, this is a ripe, gloriously generous expression of Malbec. It has weight and richness, as well as complex, dark tannins. With its blackberry fl avor and dense structure, it’s likely to age for 6–7 years and more. Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports . Cellar Selection . — R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 33


Petites Cailles Malbec ( Cahors ). Named after the quail that inhabit the vineyard, this intensely fruity wine is ripe and full-bodied. Flavors of truffl es, spice as well as black plums and berries abound. This is a serious wine for aging; keep for at least seven years, although with its great fruit it could be deliciously drink-able sooner. Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports . — R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 33

93 Jean-Luc Baldès 2010 Probus Malbec

( Cahors ). Named after the Roman emperor

who allowed vine planting in Cahors, this dense wine layers new wood and dark fruits in an initially velvety style. Only slowly do the complex tannins show through to offer power and enormous aging potential. Keep for at least seven years. AP Wine Imports . — R.V. abv: 14% Price: $ 30

92 Clos Troteligotte 2011 K-or Malbec-

Merlot ( Cahors ). Part of the range of “K” wines from Clos Troteligotte, K-or boasts dark, dense, very fi rm tannins while still showing black plum and berry fruits. It has concentration and a solid, chunky structure that promises aging over at least 5–6 years. Authentique Vin . Editors’ Choice . — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ 17


Malbec ( Cahors ). Predominantly Malbec, with some Merlot and Tannat, this classic estate wine from Triguedina is dark, dense and initially tannic. It has great concentration from the black-plum-skin fl avors as well as licorice and layers of wood-derived spice. The wine needs at least fi ve years more in bottle. AP Wine Imports . Editors’ Choice . — R.V. abv: 14% Price: $ 20

90 Clos Troteligotte 2011 K-lys Malbec ( Ca-

hors ). This big, spicy wine is very smooth and rich now, but also has the potential to age. Dusty tan-nins, perfumed fruits and a rich dense character offer the potential to drink in a year. This is a great expression of Cahors. Authentique Vin . — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ 24

89 Jean-Luc Baldès 2010 Château Labrande

Malbec ( Cahors ). From a small property next to Jean-Luc Baldès’s Clos Triguedina, Labrande pro-duces a fi rm while accessible Malbec. It has richness, solid tannins, dark coffee and blueberry fl avors. The end shows density and medium-term aging potential. Misa Imports . — R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 15

88 Jean-Luc Baldès 2010 Triguedina Petit

Clos Malbec-Merlot ( Cahors ). Made for early drinking, this fresh and fruity wine gives a touch of smokiness and just the right level of tannin to remind you this is from Malbec in Cahors. Keep for a year or drink now. Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports . — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ 15

88 Vignobles 46N118 2008 Noir 46 Malbec

( Cahors ). A simple, big and fruity Malbec, softer than many although with all the right richness. This is a wine for drinking now, with its mature plum fl avors and leather aroma. The French number for the department (county) of Cahors is 46. Luxe Vintages . — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ 14

87 Clos Troteligotte 2011 K-nom Malbec-

Merlot ( Cahors ). Great value, simple and fruity, this is a ripe wine without wood aging, just burst-ing with black fruit fl avors. It’s rich, slightly stalky and ready to drink now. Authentique Vin . — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $ 13

WineMag.com | 101

95 Boulard X.O. Calvados (France; Palm

Bay International, Boca Raton, FL). For full review see page 78.abv: 40% Price: $90

93 Berneroy VSOP Calvados (France;

Deutsch Family Wines & Spirits, White

Plains, NY). There’s no mistaking that this is a warm and welcoming product distilled from apples—a pleas-ing, authentic apple aroma wafts out of the glass, along with a light fl oral note. Caramel and gingerbread spice coat the palate on the rounded fi nish, suggesting tarte tatin. Mellow and sippable, this would be outstanding in fall-accented cocktails. Even the rounded bottle shape suggests an apple. Best Buy.

abv: 40% Price: $22

92 Boulard Grand Solage V.S.O.P. Calvados

(France; Palm Bay International, Boca

Raton, FL). For full review see page 78.abv: 40% Price: $50

92 Berneroy XO Calvados (France; Deutsch

Family Wines & Spirits, White Plains,

NY). Spicy and refreshing, this bright golden-orange brandy shows thick caramel and dried fruit upfront, but ends on a lighter note, with tea, leather, ginger and a faint grassiness on the fi nish. abv: 40% Price: $32

90 Berneroy Fine Calvados (France;

Deutsch Family Wines & Spirits, White

Plains, NY). Crisp and light bodied, this bright gold apple brandy could be mistaken for an oaked white

wine (with a little extra alcohol, of course). Waves of juicy apple, honey and vanilla lead to a spark of ginger on the graceful fi nish. Best Buy.

abv: 40% Price: $19

90 Cornelius Applejack (USA; Harvest Spir-

its, Valatie, NY). For each bottle, over 60

pounds of Hudson Valley apples are pressed, ferment-ed and distilled, then aged in white oak for two years. The end result is fresh and pretty, pale gold and fra-grant with honey and pear. Vanilla coats the palate at fi rst, with a surprisingly viscous feel. Given time, more delicate pear and chamomile notes appear. Perfect for mixing jack rose cocktails.abv: 40% Price: $40

90 Short Mountain Apple Pie Tennessee

Moonshine (USA; Short Mountain Distill-

ery, Woodbury, TN). Goes down surprisingly easy for anything labeled “moonshine,” though fl avoring is add-ed and the label describes this product as a “moonshine cocktail.” Regardless, this golden corn-based liquid has rustic aromas of malt, apple and hay. A juicy, sweet-tart apple fl avor hits the taste buds fi rst, followed by a light wash of vanilla. abv: 20% Price: $29

89 Dr. McGillicuddy’s Intense Apple Pie Li-

queur (Canada; Sazerac Co., Metairie,

LA). Although “intense” may be an exaggeration, this syrupy-sweet liqueur delivers assertive green-apple fl a-vor. It’s fun, and a vast improvement over certain other

ersatz offerings for fl avoring apple cocktails. Mix with vodka or gin. abv: 21% Price: $15

89 Domaine Dupont Vielle Reserve Calva-

dos (France; Robert Kacher Selections,

New York, NY). This light-gold brandy has a distinct grassy, vegetal presence that’s reminiscent of añejo Te-quila, running to pineapple and pear, honey, agave nec-tar and white pepper. Intriguingly buttery fi nish.abv: 42% Price: $60

88 Domaine Dupont Hors d’Age Calvados

(France; Robert Kacher Selections, New

York, NY). This golden Calvados offers a fresh, light mix of pear, grass, vanilla and honey, along with subtle hints of white fl owers, ginger and black pepper. The al-cohol feels a bit harsh and drying.abv: 42% Price: $85

86 Black Dirt Apple Jack (USA; Black Dirt

Distilling, Warwick, NY). “Bottled-in-bond” spirits date back to 1897, meant to ensure the purity of American-made whiskey. As a bottled-in-bond apple brandy, this deliberately 100-proof spirit is meant for mixing, and retains apple, espresso, bitter chocolate and clove fl avors. It’s aged a minimum of four years in new, charred American oak barrels.abv: 50% Price: $45

WHISKIES

95 Jim Beam Signature Craft Small Batch

Bourbon (USA; James M. Beam Dis-

tilling Co., Frankfort, KY). The fi rst rollout in Jim Beam’s premium Signature Craft series is a 12-year-old Bourbon fi nished in Spanish brandy casks. It’s deli-cious; dried fruit, vanilla and praline notes are chased by a long fi nish that winds into ginger and cinnamon. It grows richer and fruiter the longer it’s allowed to open in the glass.abv: 43% Price: $40

93 Brenne French Single Malt Whisky

(France; Local Infusions, Wilmington,

DE). This unique newcomer—a French single-malt whisky fi nished in used Cognac barrels—tastes like a soft, golden Speyside Scotch with a little something ex-tra. Honey, apricot and crème brûlée kick into a spicy ginger and black pepper fi nish and a gentle puff of smoke. abv: 40% Price: $60

92 Knob Creek Rye Whiskey (USA; Knob

Creek Distillery, Clermont, KY). Though this new offering meets the technical criteria for rye (a mash bill of at least 51% rye), the sweet, caramelly fl a-vors suggest a high-rye Bourbon—which makes sense considering that Knob Creek is best known for its Bour-bon. Expect bold almond, oak, brown butter and pecan pie fl avors. The drying baking-spice fi nish is more char-acteristic of rye, and has less bite than might be expect-ed of a 100-proof spirit. abv: 50% Price: $40

FAMILY TREE: APPLE-BASED SPIRITS

An apple a day? Sure, when the apple in question is one of the boldly-fl avored ap-ple brandies, eaux de vie and other ap-

ple-based spirits showing up at bars and on li-quor store shelves. As the weather cools, the autumnal apple is a perfect, food-friendly match for the glass—rich, fruity and delicious.

Some attribute a rising interest in heirloom apples to the recent increase in artisanal apple brandies, liqueurs and hard ciders. Just when bartenders thought they’d exhausted the pre-Prohibition cocktail canon, the next wave ap-pears: Colonial-era drinks in which ciders and other apple spirits fi gure prominently. The jack rose is a particular favorite: applejack or Calva-dos mixed with lemon or lime juice and grena-dine. Gild the lily with Bar Keep Baked Apple Bitters, if you dare!

In the reviews below, the apple-based spirits category was deliberately left open ended, to en-courage a wide range of innovative spirits made from apples.

It was a given that brandies like France’s Cal-vados and their American brethren, applejack, would come in—and they surely did, including many excellent bottlings, such as those made by Boulard and Berneroy in Normandy, or, closer to home, fresh and apple-fragrant Cornelius Ap-plejack from Hudson Valley, NY.

That said, other, more distant cousins of the apple family exist, too. Consider apple eaux de vie, for example; vodka made from apples, like CORE vodka; or gin, like the one Chase Wil-liams makes from English cider apples, a prod-uct newly arrived in the U.S. market. More distantly-related, apple-fl avored products, in-cluding whiskey and liqueurs, also fi ll out the shelves. At their core, all have the humble ap-ple in common.

Since crisp autumn weather often signals the return of brown spirits, reviews of some new whiskies are included below.

Cheers! —KARA NEWMAN

SPIRITS


95 Aleman-Stone-Two Brothers DayMan

Coffee IPA (American IPA; The Stone

Brewing Co., CA). This innovative IPA blends the as-sertive hop characteristics of an IPA with fresh roasted coffee. Although that might sound a bit strange, the re-sulting brew is surprisingly harmonious. Bright tropical-fruit notes of Citra hops, along with more traditional hop characteristics of citrus zest and pine, mingle seam-lessly with warm, toasty notes of coffee, caramel and earthy spice. It’s medium to full bodied, with a creamy and slightly resinous mouthfeel that coats the palate. Roasted coffee bean and piny hop fl avors complement each other on the fi nish, and result in an appropriately bitter close.abv: 8.7% Price: $9/22 oz

95 Deschutes Hop Henge Experimental IPA

(American IPA; Deschutes Brewery, OR).

Deschutes’s Hop Henge Experimental IPA—the brew-ery’s “annual exercise in IBU escalation”—pours a stun-ning golden-apricot color, with a thick head that really lasts. The bouquet offers forward aromas of fl oral hops, orange blossoms, savory fresh herbs and bready malts. The medium-weight mouth exhibits similar notes, but with greater hop intensity and bitterness, resulting in a slightly resinous stickiness that carries through to the fi nish. A clean, malty core grounds the astringency and keeps it from feeling overdone, alongside fl avors of toasted brioche and golden raisin.abv: 10.6% Price: $6/22 oz

93 Smuttynose Finestkind IPA (American

IPA; Smuttynose Brewing Co., NH). A well-balanced IPA, this pours a gorgeous golden-or-

ange color, with a slight haze and a fl uffy white head that lingers and leaves generous lacing behind with each sip. The aromas are pronounced and enticing, bringing scents of orange peel, pine resin, earthy hops and bis-cuity malt, as well as light peppery spice. Those notes carry through to the smooth and slightly creamy palate, ending on a lovely bitter fl avor that lingers long on the close.abv: 6.9% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack

92 21st Amendment Hop Crisis Imperial

IPA (American Double/Imperial IPA; 21st

Amendment Brewery, CA). Aged on oak spirals, this is an interesting interpretation of an American Imperial IPA. The oaky notes of baking spice and toasted wood complement the bitter hop aromas and fl avors of pine resin and orange oil. A hint of tobacco adds depth to the bouquet, while the palate offers citrus-rind and pine-cone fl avors supported by toasted malt and a touch of caramel. It’s medium bodied, with low carbonation and a slightly resinous texture. The alcohol provides a warm-ing sensation that lingers through the long fi nish. abv: 9.7% Price: $10/12 oz 4 pack

92 Karl Strauss Blackball Belgian-style IPA

(American IPA; Karl Strauss Brewing

Company, CA). This subtle IPA shows great balance and nuance. A cloudy orange color in the glass, it leads with lively aromas of orange and grapefruit zest, yeast, pressed yellow fl owers and a touch of white pepper. The palate offers similar notes, but with a fruity core of un-derripe peach and pineapple. It’s richly textured, with a

full mouthfeel and light carbonation. The long, dry fi n-ish is accented by earthy hop and bready yeast fl avors. abv: 8.5% Price: $8/22 oz

92 Smuttynose Paradox (American IPA;

Smuttynose Brewing Co., NH). Part of Smuttynose’s Short Batch Series, this was brewed to commemorate the Sun Winefest Ten Year Anniversa-ry. Dubbed “a session IPA,” this is initially fragrant and fruity, with bright scents of tropical fruits, like mango and pineapple, as well as red grapefruit segments, fl oral hops and a touch of sweet grass. The medium-weight palate is fl avorful and complex, with an impressive evo-lution of fl avors, from fresh tropical fruits to citrus to biscuity malt and fi nal hoppy bitterness. With its ap-proachable alcohol and juicy character, this is indeed a sessionable selection. abv: 5.3% Price: $9/22 oz

91 Deschutes Fresh Squeezed IPA (Ameri-

can IPA; Deschutes Brewery, OR). Brewed with Citra and Mosaic hops, this IPA is wonderfully fra-grant. It leads with a mélange of fruit aromas: manda-rin orange, ruby-red grapefruit, passion fruit, mango, pineapple and papaya. Those notes carry through to the medium-weight palate, supported by fl avors of bread dough and lightly caramelized malt. A dank stickiness adds depth to the palate and length to the fi nish.abv: 6.0% Price: $6/22 oz

91 Hangar 24 Double IPA (American Dou-

ble/Imperial IPA; Hangar 24 Craft Brew-

ery, CA). This DIPA pours a hazy apricot color, with a frothy off-white head that lasts. Hop aromas and fl avors are in the foreground, with pronounced notes of citrus zest—lemon, orange and grapefruit—as well as accents of pine and hemp oil. The medium carbonation keeps the palate from feeling too heavy or resinous, while the biscu-ity, malty core balances out the hoppy bitterness. Despite the alcohol, this is well balanced and easy to drink.abv: 9.0% Price: $7/22 oz

91 Karl Strauss Big Barrel Double IPA

(American Double/Imperial IPA; Karl

Strauss Brewing Company, CA). This is an assertive brew that’s sure to please just about any hophead. It leads with forward aromas of citrus, as well as juicy scents of tropical fruit, apricot and green grape, accented by fresh grass and pine needles. These notes continue into the broad and fl avorful palate, supported by a core of sweet, caramel-malt fl avor and a hint of honey. Medium carbon-ation keeps the mouthfeel lifted, and the fi nish is long, with soft bitterness and lingering, juicy fruit fl avors. abv: 9.0% Price: $8/22 oz

90 Deschutes Chasin’ Freshies Fresh Hop

I.P.A. (American IPA; Deschutes Brew-

ery, OR). This fresh-hop IPA offers delicate notes of lemon, apricot, orange blossom, white grape and earthy hops. The palate is much more expressive than the nose, showing bold fl avors of fresh citrus juice, mango, bready malt and pressed yellow fl owers. The bitterness starts off subtle in the mouth, but grows more pronounced through the long, lingering fi nish. Smooth and lightly creamy in texture, with medium carbonation and great overall balance.abv: 7.4% Price: $6/22 oz

IPAS CONTINUE TO DOMINATE THE MARKET

Even though craft beers are still red hot and brewers continue to look for the next big thing, consumers will forever return to

certain classic styles: lagers and stouts, for sure, but also India pale ales (IPAs).

Among consumers, a subset of people drives the IPA craze, affectionately dubbed “hopheads.” We all know the type: folks who just can’t get enough hop aroma and fl avor in their beer. The feverish need for high levels of hops and increased IBUs (international bittering units) consumed so many people for so many years, it almost seemed to be the motto of the American craft beer scene: The hoppier, the better.

While some might still fi nd this to be true, bigger does not always mean better, and it seems that many brewers have heard the message. American beers, especially IPAs, are still quite hoppy, but many beer lovers have fi nally gotten over the initial hop-shock and are now searching for more refi ned, balanced options.

The American hop varieties commonly used in these brews still take the spotlight, but harmony with the beer’s other elements—a malt backbone to support the hop characteristics, balanced alcohol and an acceptable level of astringency—is becoming more important. Some over-the-top examples are still available, especially in the double IPA category, but for consumers looking to walk into the IPA pool instead of diving headfi rst into the lupulin deepend, a plethora of delicious options are ready to ease you along.

For those with an adventurous spirit, new, hybrid-style IPAs offer alternative and exciting selections.

This trend, a perfect example of the playful creativity in the brewing industry, mixes the intense hop profi le of an IPA with another style, such as a Belgian-style wheat beer, or a unique ingredient, such as coffee. When the balance is right, these brews can offer the best of both worlds.

Prost! —LAUREN BUZZEO

BEER

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LASTDROP

SPILL THE

WINE

If you ever fi nd yourself in Spain and see people drinking from a glass mash up of a French horn, Erlenmeyer fl ask and a watering can, you’re about to have a good time. It’s called a porrón, a centuries-old Catalonian glass decanter that’s built for communal drinking;

think of it as a more refi ned wineskin. I remember my fi rst encounter. Mesmerized,

I watched a group guzzle from this exotic object. Round and round they went, passing it to their neighbor, each attempting to drink from it, wine dripping from their chins.

My friends and I had to be a part of it. I signaled our server, and a porrón fi lled with cava and orange bitters soon appeared.

I turned the spout toward my lips, and with my head back tried to stream the liquid into my mouth, taking special care to adhere to the one and only rule of porrón: Never let it touch your lips. Within seconds, I was drinking a little bit of wine, while most of it trickled—nay, waterfalled—down the front of my shirt.

Determined, we kept at it. After a few more spills and lots of laughter, we fi nally had the pour down pat, and a new tradition was born among friends. —Kate Parham A

SH

LEY

GIL

BER

TSO

N/V

II/C

OR

BIS

One woman’s not-so-dry run-in with a porrón

wine enthusiast

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