by Herbert Bailey Livesey

Montral &Qubec City

2004

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About the AuthorHerbert Bailey Livesey has written about travel and food for many publications,including Travel & Leisure, Food & Wine, and Playboy. Hes the coauthor of severalguidebooks, including Frommers Canada, Frommers Europe from $70 a Day, andFrommers New England.

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ISBN 0-7645-4124-2ISSN 1084-418X

Editor: Liz AlbertsonProduction Editor: Donna WrightCartographer: Elizabeth PuhlPhoto Editor: Richard FoxProduction by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services

Front cover photo: Qubec City: Citadel, Changing of the GuardBack cover photo: Montral: Promenade on Place Jacques Cartier

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5 4 3 2 1

ContentsList of Maps vii

Whats New in Montral & Qubec City 1

The Best of Montral & Qubec City 41

1 Frommers Favorite Montral &Qubec City Experiences . . . . . . .5

2 Best Hotel Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

The Best of Montral & Qubec City Online . . . . . . . . . .8

3 Best Dining Bets . . . . . . . . . . . .9

1 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . .13

2 Entry Requirements & Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

3 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

The Canadian Dollar, the U.S. Dollar & the British Pound . . . .17

What to Do If Your Wallet is Lost or Stolen . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

4 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

Montral & Qubec City Calendar of Events . . . . . . . . . .21

5 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . .24

6 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . .25

7 Specialized Travel Resources . . .26

8 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . .31

Frommers.com: The Complete Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . .32

9 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . .32

Online Travelers Toolbox . . . . .34

10 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

Flying with Film & Video . . . . . .41

11 Packages for the Independent Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

12 Escorted General-Interest Tours . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43

13 Tips on Accommodations . . . . .44

14 Recommended Reading . . . . . .45

Planning Your Trip to Montral & Qubec City 132

1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46

The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . .50

2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .54

Fast Facts: Montral . . . . . . . . .56

Getting to Know Montral 463

1 Downtown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .61

Family-Friendly Hotels . . . . . . . .67

2 Vieux-Montral (Old Montral) . . . . . . . . . . . . .68

Where to Stay in Montral 604

1 Restaurants by Cuisine . . . . . . .75

2 Downtown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .77

Family-Friendly Restaurants . . . .81

3 Vieux-Montral (Old Montral) . . . . . . . . . . . . .82

4 Plateau Mont-Royal . . . . . . . . .88

5 Mile End & Outer Districts . . . . .91

Where to Dine in Montral 735

March of the Tongue Troopers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92

6 Early-Morning & Late-Night Bites . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95

7 Picnic Fare: Where to Get It,Where to Eat It . . . . . . . . . . . .97

Exploring Montral 996

Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . . .99

1 The Top Attractions . . . . . . . . .100

Long May They Wave . . . . . . .105

2 More Attractions . . . . . . . . . .108

3 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . .112

4 Special-Interest Sightseeing . . .113

5 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . .115

6 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . .117

The Great American Pastime Goes North . . . . . . . . . . . . . .118

7 Outdoor Activities . . . . . . . . . .118

Montral Strolls 1217

Walking Tour 1:Vieux-Montral . . . . . . . . . . .121

Walking Tour 2:Downtown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128

Walking Tour 3:Plateau Mont-Royal . . . . . . . .133

Walking Tour 4:Mont-Royal . . . . . . . . . . . . . .136

Montral Shopping 1408

1 The Shopping Scene . . . . . . . .140 2 Shopping from A to Z . . . . . . .142

C O N T E N T Siv

1 The Performing Arts . . . . . . . .151

A Circus Extraordinaire . . . . . .153

2 The Club & Music Scene . . . . .154

3 The Bar & Cafe Scene . . . . . . .159

4 The Gay & Lesbian Scene . . . .162

5 More Entertainment . . . . . . . .163

Montral After Dark 1509

1 North into the Laurentians (Laurentides) . . . . . . . . . . . . .165

Lodging at Tremblant Resort . .180

Dining at Tremblant Resort . . .182

2 East into Montrgie & the Cantons-de-lEst . . . . . . . .183

Cantons-de-lEst: Wine Country? . . . . . . . . . . . .189

Hitting a Sugar Shack Near Mont-Orford . . . . . . . . . . . . .192

Dragonwatch: 4bdrm, eat-in kit, frpl, lake vu . . . . . . . . . . . . . .195

Side Trips from Montral 16510

1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . .199

The Neighborhoods in Brief . . .203

2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . .203

Fast Facts: Qubec City . . . . . .205

Getting to Know Qubec City 19911

vC O N T E N T S

1 Haute-Ville (Upper Town) . . . .209

Family-Friendly Hotels . . . . . . .212

The Coldest Reception in Town . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .213

2 Outside the Walls . . . . . . . . . .213

3 Basse-Ville (Lower Town) . . . .215

4 A Country Hotel in the City . . .217

Where to Stay in Qubec City 20812

1 Restaurants by Cuisine . . . . . .219

2 Haute-Ville (Upper Town) . . . .219

3 On or Near the Grande-Alle . .223

4 Basse-Ville (Lower Town) . . . .224

Where to Dine in Qubec City 21813

Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . .228

1 The Top Attractions . . . . . . . . .229

Room with a View . . . . . . . . .233

2 More Attractions . . . . . . . . . .234

3 Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . .237

4 Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . .238

5 Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . .239

6 Outdoor Activities . . . . . . . . . .239

Exploring Qubec City 22814

Walking Tour 1:The Upper Town . . . . . . . . . .242

Walking Tour 2:The Lower Town . . . . . . . . . .249

Qubec City Strolls 24215

1 The Shopping Scene . . . . . . . .254 2 Shopping from A to Z . . . . . . .255

Qubec City Shopping 25416

1 The Performing Arts . . . . . . . .258

2 The Club & Music Scene . . . . .260

3 The Bar & Cafe Scene . . . . . . .262

Qubec City After Dark 25817

1 Ile dOrlans . . . . . . . . . . . . .264

2 Montmorency Falls . . . . . . . . .269

3 Ste-Anne-de-Beaupr . . . . . . .270

4 Mont Ste-Anne . . . . . . . . . . .272

5 Canyon Ste-Anne & Ste-Anne Falls . . . . . . . . . . . .273

6 The Charlevoix Region: Baie-St-Paul, La Malbaie & St-Simon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .274

Side Trips from Qubec City 26418

C O N T E N T Svi

General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . .288

Accommodations: Montral & Environs Index . . . . . . . . . . . .297

Restaurants: Montral & EnvironsIndex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .298

Accommodations: Qubec City & Environs Index . . . . . . . . . . .298

Restaurants: Qubec City & Environs Index . . . . . . . . . . . .299

Index 288

1 A Look at French Canada:Now & Then . . . . . . . . . . . . . .280

Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .280

2 The Politics of Language . . . . .285

3 Cuisine Haute, Cuisine Bas:Smoked Meat, Fiddleheads & Caribou . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .286

Appendix: Montral & Qubec City in Depth 280

List of MapsGreater Montral 48

Montral Mtro 55

Where to Stay in Downtown Montral 62

Where to Dine in Downtown Montral 78

Where to Dine in Vieux-Montral 83

Downtown & Vieux-MontralAttractions 102

Walking Tour: Vieux-Montral 123

Walking Tour: Downtown Montral 130

Walking Tour: Plateau Mont-Royal 135

Walking Tour: Mont-Royal 137

The Laurentians (Laurentides) 167

Montrgie & Estrie 185

Qubec City Orientation 200

Where to Stay in Qubec City 210

Where to Dine in Qubec City 220

Qubec City Attractions 230

Walking Tour: The Upper Town 244

Walking Tour: The Lower Town 251

Qubec City Environs 265

An Invitation to the ReaderIn researching this book, we discovered many wonderful placeshotels, restaurants,shops, and more. Were sure youll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can sharethe information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointedwith a recommendation, wed love to know that, too. Please write to:

Frommers Montral & Qubec City 2004Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744

An Additional NotePlease be advised that travel information is subject to change at any timeand this isespecially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirma-tion when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be heldresponsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us,however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep aclose eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.

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Whats New in Montral &Qubec City

Montral continues its muscularrecovery from the economic malaiseand political agitations of the 1990s.Optimism and prosperity have returned,and with them, an era of good feelinglikely to last well into the future. TheCanadian dollar has strengthenedsomewhat against its U.S. counterpart(although not so much as to diminishQubecs desirability as a tourist desti-nation), unemployment is the lowest inmany years, and a billion-dollar con-struction boom continues.

One big change for residents wasthe creation of a new megacity, effec-tive January 2002. The 28 towns andcities that occupy the Island of Mon-tral were merged into a metropolis of1.8 million inhabitants, making it thesecond-largest city in Canada afterToronto. Almost inevitably, a move-ment is afoot to reverse the action.

After 9 years of governance by theavowedly separatist Parti Qubecois,which expended much of its energyattempting to persuade the citizenry toseparate Qubec from the rest ofCanada, the provincial government isnow under the power of the federalistLiberal party. Separatist sentiment hasbeen muffled, at least for the moment,and occupies much less daily discussionthan it used to. The cultural dividebetween the Francophone majority andAnglophone and Allophone minoritieshasnt melted away, but it certainly has mellowed. And while Quebecerswere even more vigorously against theAmerican-British war in Iraq than

other Canadians, their welcome forindividual American visitors remains aswarm and generous as ever.

PLANNING YOUR TRIP Even inthe face of a slide against several of theworlds major currencies, the U.S. dol-lar continues to be relatively strongagainst the Canadian version, makingQubec an increasingly rare travel bar-gain for American travelers.

While Montral is one of the easiercities to get around by private car, italso has an excellent subway system,the Mtro, which reaches every attrac-tion and neighborhood of interest tovisitors. Note that the name of thestop formerly known as Ile Ste-Hlneis now Parc Jean-Drapeau.

WHERE TO STAY A perhaps irra-tional exuberance has caused a surge inhotel construction, notably in the historic riverside district known asVieux-Montral (Old Montral). Anunprecedented taste for boutiquehotels got underway in 2001 with thestylish, 48-room Htel Place dArmes,701 Cte de la Place dArmes (& 888/450-1887). Recent additions to thescene include Htel St-Paul, 355 rueMcGill (& 866/380-2202); the HtelLe Saint-Sulpice, 48 rue Le Royer (& 877/785-7423); the Htel XIXesicle, 262 rue St-Jacques (& 877/553-0019); the Htel Gault, 447449rue Ste-Hlne (& 866/904-1616);the Htel Nelligan, 106 St-Paul ouest(& 877/788-2040); and the supre-mely luxurious Htel Le St-James,

354 rue St-Jacques ouest (& 866/841-3111). The largest has 120 rooms, thesmallest 30. In an admirable trend, allseven are housed in rehabilitated struc-tures dating from the 19th and early20th centuries. Most of the boutiquehotels also opened restaurants of note,ranging from competent to superior inservice and cuisine, notably Le Restau-rant, at the Saint-Sulpice; and Verses,at the Nelligan. See chapters 4 and 5for more details on the hotels and theirrestaurants.

In Qubec City, a similar but lessexplosive trend has seen a surge ofboutique hotels in recycled buildingsin the Lower Town. One of the first,the superb Dominion 1912, 126 rueSt-Pierre (& 888/833-5253), hasbeen extremely successful. The moreconventional Htel Palace Royal,775 av. Honor-Mercier (& 800/567-5276) is a new link in a small family-run chain, with a faux-tropical indoorpool and a good location near the St-Jean Gate in the old city wall. Seechapter 12 for details.

WHERE TO DINE Qubecoiswere a little slow to open up to thefood revolution that swept most ofNorth America in the 80s and 90s.Montrals better restaurants weregood to excellent, but they wereFrench, with a few Italian optionsthrow in. Thats changed, with avengeance. Area, 1429 rue Amherst(& 514/890-6691), Le Blanc, 3435bd. St-Laurent (& 514/288-9909),Chao Phraya, 50 av. Laurier (& 514/272-5339), Lemac, 1045 av. Laurier(& 514/270-0999), are a clutch ofadmirable newcomers. Another excel-lent newbie is Savannah, 4448 bd. St-Laurent (& 514/904-0277), anairy renovated space on an upperblock of The Main. Southern Fusionis what the owner and former chefcalls his divinely tasty food, as muchinspired by the specialties of the Car-olina Low Country as the better-known Creole/Cajun of Louisiana.

Very different, and also hugely popu-lar, is Au Pied de Cochon, 536 rueDuluth est (& 514/281-1116). Itlooks like just another storefronteatery, but what they do with suchdamn-the-cholesterol fare as foie grashamburgers and immense slabs ofpork, lamb, and venison keep itpacked to the walls every night.

There have been sushi joints inMontral since the fad hit NorthAmerica 30 years ago, but they wererare. Until now. Feeding a new explo-sion of interest in artfully presented rawfish is the four-outlet Qubec chain,Soto. Its Old Montral location is at500 rue McGill (& 514/864-5115),where Japanese chefs hone their excel-lent sushi-making skills.

Not one to sit around counting hisprofits, chef-entrepreneur DavidMacmillan has extended the formulathat made his Buona Notte and Globerestaurants such hits to newcomerRosalie, 1232 rue de la Montagne (& 514/392-1970). No question,what appears on the plate is alwaysgood, but that doesnt explain how hisenterprises continue to attract legionsof chic locals, powerbrokers, and visit-ing celebs by the limo-load. Jointhem. See chapter 5 for more detailson the dining scene in Montral.

Culinary changes are less frequentin smaller Qubec City, but one of itsmost romantic eateries, Le Saint-Amour, 48 rue Ste-Ursule (& 418/694-0667), has regained its footingafter a couple of years of decline thatsaw changes in ownership and in thekitchen. The main room has beenexpensively redecorated and the wait-staff trained to a finer edge. Maketime for the Voodoo Grill, 575 GrandAlle (& 418/647-2000). Geopoliti-cal references are a little confused,with a decor of African masks andfood from around the Pacific Rim, butthe eats are surprisingly good, andassuming you dont require Bach andquietude with your dinner, youll

W H AT S N E W2

enjoy the energy of the good-lookingyoung clientele. For this years hot-hot-hottest restaurant, get out of the touristdistrict and find your way downtownto Yuzu, 438 rue de LEglise (& 418/521-7253). This knockout uses thetraditions of sushi as a launching pad torocket off in directions rarely experi-enced in North America. Almost asastonishing, the blokes behind the jointare only in their mid-twenties. Dontmiss it. See chapter 13.

Incidentally, new regulations nowrequire nonsmoking sections inrestaurants throughout the provinceno small thing in heavy-puffingQubec.

SIGHTSEEING Utilizing a varietyof technological tricks and displays,the new science centre (Le Centre desSciences de Montral), King EdwardPier, Vieux-Port, Montral (& 514/496-4724), intends to enlighten visi-tors, especially young ones, about sci-ence. Its most popular component byfar is its IMAX Theater, with powerfulimages on a screen at least four storieshigh. La Ronde Amusement Park,Parc des Iles, Ile Ste-Hlne, Montral(& 800/797-4537), home to 35 ridesand the annual international fireworkscompetition, was teetering on the edgeof bankruptcy when it was rescued in 2001 by the Six Flags empire.Improvements in maintenance andattractions are slowly becoming appar-ent, with several new thrill rides nowin operation. See chapter 6.

AFTER DARK Montrals racynightlife reputation dates from the1920s Great Experiment south of itsborder. Hearty partiers still pour intothe city for the season of summer festivals that celebrate jazz, comedy,and ethnic cultures.

Although some of Montrals newestmusic bars, dance clubs, and otherwiseunclassifiable retreats are too hot not tocool down, an incendiary list of possi-bilities along St-Laurent includes theUpperclub, no. 3519 (& 514/285-4464), Orchid, no. 3556 (& 514/848-6398), BBops Vodka Lounge,no. 3603 (& 514/282-3332), and Le Pistol, no. 3723 (& 514/847-222).In the whatizit category is OasisOxygne, no. 4059 (& 514/284-1196), a New Age lounge that servesno alcohol, but offers chair massagecombined with oxygen inhalation. Seechapter 9 for more details on the Mon-tral nightlife scene.

On Qubec Citys boisterousGrande Alle, two grungy new bar/dance clubs are the Liquid Bar, 580Grande Alle (& 418/524-1367), andthe Living Lounge, 690 Grande Alle(& 418/521-1885). Crowds are intheir late teens and early twenties, andT-shirts and jeans, or the cold-weatherequivalent, make up the dress code.For chic adult crowds, Chez Dagob-ert, 600 Grande Alle (& 418/522-2645), and Maurice, 575 GrandeAlle (& 418/647-2000), still rule.See chapter 17.

W H AT S N E W 3

The Best of Montral & Qubec City

The duality of Canadian life has been called the Twin Solitudes. OneCanada, English and Calvinist in origin, tends to be staid, smug, and work-obsessed. The other, French and Catholic, is more creative, lighthearted, andinclined to see pleasure as the end purpose of labor. Or so go the stereotypes.

These two peoples live side by side throughout Qubec and in the nineprovinces of English Canada, but the blending occurs in particularly intensefashion in Qubec provinces largest city, Montral. French speakers, known asFrancophones, constitute 66% of the citys population, while most of theremaining population speaks EnglishAnglophones. (The growing number ofresidents who have another primary tongue, and speak neither English norFrench, are called Allophones.) Although both groups are decidedly NorthAmerican, they are no more alike than Margaret Thatcher and Charles deGaulle.

Montral is a modern city in every regard. Its downtown bristles with sky-scrapers, but many of them are playful, almost perky, with unexpected shapesand bright, uncorporate colors. The city above ground is mirrored by anotherbelow, where an entire winter can be avoided in coatless comfort. To the westand north of downtown are Anglo commercial and residential neighborhoods,centered around Westmount. To the east and north are Francophone quartiers,notably Plateau Mont-Royal and Outremont. In between are the many dialectsand skin tones of the immigrant rainbow.

Over the past decade, there was an undeniable impression of decline in Mon-tral. A bleak mood prevailed, driven by lingering recession and uncertainty overthe future. After all, it still remained possible that Qubec would choose to flingitself into independence from the rest of Canada. Lately, though, passions havecooled, in part because the separatist Parti Qubcois was defeated in 2003 bythe federalist Liberal Party.

Something else is going on: Ripples of optimism have become waves, spread-ing through the province and its largest city. The Canadian dollar has beenstrengthening against its U.S. counterpart. Unemployment in Qubec, long indouble digits, shrank to under 6%, the lowest percentage in more than 2 decades,and below that of archrival Toronto. In another (perhaps connected) trend, crimein Montral (already one of the safest cities in North America), hit a 20-year lowin 2000. Favorable currency exchange and the presence of skilled workers havemade the city a favored site for Hollywood film and TV production. The rash of For Rent and For Sale signs that disfigured the city in the 1990s has evap-orated, replaced by a welcome shortage of store and office space and a billion-dollar building boom thats filling up vacant plots all over downtown. Thebeloved old hockey arena was converted to a dining and entertainment center

1

F R O M M E R S FAV O R I T E M O N T R A L & Q U B E C C I T Y E X P E R I E N C E S 5

1 Frommers Favorite Montral & Qubec City ExperiencesMONTREAL

Exploring Vieux-Montral. Theold city is filled with old-worldflavor. Wander Place Jacques-Cartier, the most engaging of theold citys squares; explore muse-ums and the stunning architectureof the churches; and stroll alongthe revitalized waterfront. Seechapter 6, Exploring Montral,and the walking tour of Vieux-Montral in chapter 7.

Feasting on Table dHte Spe-cials. Indulge in three or fourcourses for a fixed price that isonly slightly more than the cost ofan a la carte main course alone.Most full-service restaurants offerthe table dhte, if only at midday.See chapter 5, Where to Dine inMontral.

Listening to Jazz. Downtown,Old Town, the Latin Quarter, allover, this is a favorite pastime oflocals and visitors alike, especiallyin late June and early July during

the renowned Montral Jazz Festi-val. See chapter 9, MontralAfter Dark, and p. 23.

Savoring French and Interna-tional Cuisine. Experience all ofFrench cuisines permutationstraditional, haute, bistro, originalQubecois. Also sample the citysCal-Asian hybrids and the legionof ethnic restaurants representingdozens of foreign cuisines, notablyItalian, Mexican, Thai, Chinese,Greek, Polish, and Indian. Seechapter 5, Where to Dine inMontral.

Shopping. Browse the shops ofworld-class domestic designers,from the up-and-coming to thewell established; search for Inuit(Eskimo) sculptures of the highestorder (with prices to match); andtake in the dozens of eclecticantiques shops along rue Notre-Dame between rue Guy and rueAtwater. See chapter 8, MontralShopping.

called Forum Pepsi, and La Ronde, a popular amusement park that was experi-encing a sharp decline that threatened to end in bankruptcy, was saved by its saleto the Six Flags empire. A new convention center opened in 2002. Somewhatcontroversial in its vividly colorful design, it nonetheless is expected to enhancethe citys desirability as a meeting place.

To be sure, not every project has enjoyed smooth sailing. A plan to build adowntown baseball stadium collapsed soon after it was proposed, as did a planfor a new theme park. But those stumbles wont matter to American visitors, forwhom Montral already might seem an urban near-paradise. The subway sys-tem, called the Mtro, is modern and swift. Streets are clean and safe. Montralsbest restaurants are the equal of their south-of-the-border compatriots in everyway, yet they are as much as 30% to 40% cheaper. And the government givesvisitors back most of the taxes it collects from them.

Qubec City is less sophisticated, more conservative, and more French. Withits impressive location above the St. Lawrence River and its virtually unblem-ished Old Town of 18th- and 19th-century houses, it even looks French. Prob-ably 95% of its residents speak French, and far fewer are bilingual, as mostMontralers are. (In the province as a whole, about 81% of citizens are Fran-cophone.) With that homogeneity and its status as the supposed capital of afuture independent nation, citizens seem to suffer less angst over what mighthappen down the road. They are also aware that a critical part of their economyis based on tourism, and they are far less likely to vent the open hostility thatAmerican visitors not infrequently experience in English Canada.

QUEBEC CITY Admiring the Skyline from the

Lvis Ferry. The ferry providesquite a view for very little money,and passengers can stay on boardand come right back without dis-embarking. See p. 237.

Discovering the BlossomingLower Town. All but abandonedto shipping and grimy industry,the old riverside neighborhood isbeing reborn, with antiques shops,bistros, and boutique hotels fillingits rehabilitated 18th- and 19th-century buildings. See chapter 14,Exploring Qubec City, and thewalking tour of the Lower Town inchapter 15, Qubec City Strolls.

Lingering at an Outdoor Cafe.Tables are set out at placedArmes, in the Quartier du Petit-Champlain, and along the

Grande-Allea quality-of-lifeinvention the French and theirQubecois brethren have per-fected. See chapter 13, Where toDine in Qubec City.

Relaxing in Battlefields Park(Parc des Champs-de-Bataille).This park is beautifully situated,overlooking the St. LawrenceRiver, and is particularly lively onweekends, when families andlovers come here to picnic andplay. See p. 233.

Strolling and Lounging on theTerrasse Dufferin. CaptivatingQubec City is at its best here,with the copper-spired ChteauFrontenac rearing up behind, theLower Town below, and ferries,freighters, and pleasure craft mov-ing on the broad, silvered river.See p. 237.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F M O N T R A L & Q U B E C C I T Y6

2 Best Hotel BetsMONTREAL

Best Historic Hotel: No contest.The Ritz-Carlton Montral, 1228rue Sherbrooke ouest (& 800/363-0366 or 514/842-4212), hasbeen around since 1913, giving it ahalf-century lead on the closestcompetition. See p. 65.

Best for Business Travelers: Acloser call, with several worthycandidates, but Fairmont TheQueen Elizabeth, 900 bd. Ren-Lvesque ouest (& 800/441-1414or 514/861-3511), gets the nodfor its central location atop therailroad station, concierge floors,fully equipped health club, andexcellent bus connections to theairport. See p. 61.

Best New Luxury Hotel Down-town: The nearby Omni, Ritz,and Vogue are challenged by thefirst Canadian branch of a perva-sive chain, the Sofitel, 1155 rueSherbrooke (& 877/285-9001 or514/285-9000), which matches itsrivals in every detail. See p. 65.

Best for a Romantic Getaway:With ancient cut-stone walls, swagsof velvet and brocade, and tiltingfloors that Benjamin Franklin oncetrod upon, as well as a baronial din-ing room and a breakfast nookunder a peaked glass roof, La Mai-son Pierre du Calvet, 405 rueBonsecours (& 866/544-1725 or514/282-1725), provokes memo-ries of lovers hotels by the Seine.See p. 71.

Best Old Boutique Hotel: Notreally that old, Htel Le Germain,2050 rue Mansfield (& 877/333-2050 or 514/849-2050), brought aneeded jolt of panache to the too-often stodgy corps of downtownbusiness hotels, and helped inspirea boomlet in small, stylish hotels inVieux-Montral. See p. 65.

Best New Boutique Hotels(Posh Category): In Old Mon-tral, the Htel Le St-James, 355rue St-Jacques (& 866/841-3111or 514/841-3111) raises the bar to

an almost impossibly high level,with a superbly sybaritic spa andgorgeous grand hall, but theHtel Nelligan, 106 rue St-Paulouest (& 877/788-2040 or 514/788-2040) counters with a greatfull-service restaurant and roof-top terrace. See p. 68 for Htel LeSt-James and p. 70 for Htel Nel-ligan.

Best New Boutique Hotels (Min-imalist Category): Also in OldMontral, Htel St-Paul, 355 rueMcGill (& 866/380-2202 or 514/380-2222), softens its austere lineswith fur throws, while the eagerlyanticipated Htel Gault, at 449rue Ste-Hlne (& 866/904-1616or 514/904-1616) leaves its rawconcrete walls uncovered and usesfurniture that was startlingly mod-ern in the 1950s. See p. 70 forHtel St-Paul and p. 68 for HtelGault.

Best Lobby for Pretending ThatYoure Rich: A tiethe woody,hushed Ritz-Carlton Montral(see Best Historic Hotel, above)exudes old money, while the newHtel Le St-James (see Best NewBoutique Hotels [Posh Category],above), caters to the cellphone andinternational tailored-clothing set.See p. 65 for the Ritz-CarltonMontral and p. 68 for Htel LeSt-James.

Best for Families: The DeltaMontral, 475 avenue du Presi-dent-Kennedy (& 877/286-1986or 514/286-1986), keeps the kidsblissfully waterlogged with twopoolsone inside, one outside.The young ones can also be placedunder watchful eyes in the playcenter, giving their parents abreak. See p. 67.

Best Moderately Priced Hotel:True, there are no surprises here,but the service is attentive, and thecheapest rooms dip into the

budget category (as low asC$120/US$85 for a double) atthe Holiday Inn Montral-Mid-town, 420 rue Sherbrooke ouest(& 800/387-3042 or 514/842-6111). See p. 67.

Best B&B: Located in a 1723house in Vieux-Montral, AubergeLes Passants du Sans Soucy, 171rue St-Paul ouest (& 514/842-2634), is more upscale and stylishthan most of its peers, and its located near the top restaurantsand clubs in the old town. See p. 72.

Best Service: Its tough to chooseamong the troops at the Htel LeSt-James (see Best Lobby for Pre-tending That Youre Rich, above),the Ritz-Carlton Montral (seeBest Historic Hotel, above), andthe Htel Inter-ContinentalMontral, 360 rue St-Antoineouest (at Bleury; & 800/361-3600or 514/987-9900). All three teamsdisplay an almost equal amount ofgrace and care when it comes totending to their guests. See p. 68,p. 65, and p. 69 for each hotel,respectively.

Best Location: Airport busesleave regularly from the front doorof Fairmont The Queen Eliza-beth (see Best for Business Trav-elers, above). The main railroadstation is just a couple of levelsdown in the hotel elevator, andmost of the major corporatebuildings are accessible throughthe corridors of the undergroundcity. See p. 61.

Best Health Club: Htel OmniMont-Royal, 1050 rue Sherbrookeouest (& 514/284-1110), lays onaerobics classes with instructors,free weights and weight machinesand Exercycles, as well as saunas, asteam room, whirlpools, and mas-sages to recover from the workout.See p. 64. Fairmont The Queen

B E S T H O T E L B E T S 7

Elizabeth (see Best Location,above), is a close second. See p. 61.

Best Hotel Pool: Most of the bigdowntown hotels have heatedpools, but at the Hilton MontralBonaventure, 1 place Bonaven-ture (& 800/267-2575 or 514/878-2332), you can slip into thepool indoors and stroke into theoutdoors without leaving thewater, even in January. See p. 64.

Best Views: With 32 stories, theHtel Omni Mont-Royal (seeBest Health Club, above) hassome of the loftiest rooms, withsome of the most panoramicviews, in town. See p. 64.

QUEBEC CITY Best Historic Hotel: Fairmont Le

Chteau Frontenac, 1 rue des Car-rires (& 800/828-7447 or 418/692-3861), is more than a centuryold. It was one of the first hotelsbuilt to serve railroad passengersand to encourage tourism at a timewhen most people stayed close tohomeand it still rewards a visit.See p. 209.

Best for Business Travelers: A tie.Both the Hilton Qubec, 1100bd. Ren-Lvesque est (& 800/447-2411 or 418/647-6508), andthe Delta Qubec, 690 bd. Ren-Lvesque est (& 888/884-7777in Canada, 800/333-3333 from

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F M O N T R A L & Q U B E C C I T Y8

The Best of Montral & Qubec City Online

You can find lots of information on Montral and Qubec City on theInternet. Here are a few of our favorite planning and general infor-mation sites.

Bonjour Qubec (www.tourisme.gouv.qc.ca), the official site of thegovernment of the Province of Qubec, endeavors to be a compre-hensive information bank about all things Qubec, and nearly suc-ceeds. Youll find information on upcoming events and ongoingattractions, and you can search for hotels and reserve online.

Bonjour la Montral (www.tourisme-montreal.org), another offi-cial tourism site, constitutes a first source that hits the highlightsrather than delves at depth. Click the traveler box for a directoryof attractions, guided tours, entertainment, accommodations, andrestaurants. Be sure to scope the Sweet Deals on lodging andactivities from October to May.

Montral Online (www.montrealonline.com) is a site packed withfestival schedules, a slew of theater and dance reviews, interactivemusic listings, a bar guide, and movie listings. Cant decide? Let thesites condensed The Very Best of Montral section guide you.

Hour (www.hour.ca) is a Montral culture magazine that highlightslocal happenings. Read entertainingly grumpy and often profanetakes on current events from several columnists, as well as regularlyupdated restaurant and film reviews.

Qubec (www.quebecregion.com) is sponsored by the GreaterQubec Area Tourism and Convention Bureau and is full of infor-mation about Qubec Citys accommodations, attractions, sports,shopping, dining, history, and culture.

elsewhere, or 418/647-1717),have as central locations as can befound, with good fitness centersand executive floors with con-cierges and business services. See p. 213.

Best for a Romantic Getaway:Its hard to beat curling up with aglass of wine beside the fire in thecountry-chic great room of theAuberge Saint-Antoine, 10 rueSt-Antoine (& 888/692-2211 or418/692-2211). See p. 215.

Best Boutique Hotel: The sleekDominion 1912, 126 rue Saint-Pierre (& 888/833-5253 or 418/692-2224), infuses a preWorldWar I building with modernistdesign, continuing a trend indesigner hotels and inns in the

Basse-Ville. It is especially fash-ionable among the younger busi-ness set. See p. 216.

Best Location: Where else? Fortourists, nothing can beat Fair-mont Le Chteau Frontenac (seeBest Historic Hotel, above) forproximity to all the sights. In fact,the Chteau is one of the sights.See p. 209.

Best Health Club and Pool: At theDelta Qubec (see Best for Busi-ness Travelers, above), weights,Exercycles, and a workout roomwith instructors, as well as awhirlpool and sauna, will help youease out the kinks. Slip into theheated pool inside and swim outto the open air. See p. 213.

B E S T D I N I N G B E T S 9

3 Best Dining BetsFor a discussion of dining in Qubec,see Cuisine Haute, Cuisine Bas:Smoked Meat, Fiddleheads & Cari-bou, in the appendix.

MONTREAL Best Spot for a Business Lunch:

Caf de Paris, at the Ritz-Carlton,1228 rue Sherbrooke ouest, at rueDrummond (& 514/842-4212),wont disappoint, at least in itsdeluxe setting and polished serv-ice. See p. 65.

Best Spot for a Celebration: Noneed to rake in stacks of chips atthe gambling tables in the casino tojoin the festive crowd at Nuances,1 av. du Casino (& 514/392-2708), the gracious multi-starredtemple de cuisine on the top floor ofthe casino. Youll get superb serv-ice, astonishing food, and spectac-ular views of the skyline to boot.See p. 93.

Best Wine List: Les Halles, 1450rue Crescent, between rue Ste-Catherine and boulevard deMaisonneuve (& 514/844-2328),has a selection of more than 400

labels, carefully arranged not simply by such broad regional cat-egories as Bordeaux and Burgundy,but by appellation. Prices run well into three figures, but moremoderately priced bottles are alsoavailable. See p. 77.

Best Decor: With its exposed brickand stone walls, ceiling-high shelvesof wine behind the handsomelyturned-out center bar, and candleflames flickering in the breezesthrough the big open windowsalong the front and side, Modavie,1 rue St-Paul ouest in Vieux-Mon-tral (& 514/287-9582), pleasesthe eye at every turn. See p. 85.

Best Value: At lunch, the all-you-can-eat Indian buffet at Le Taj,2077 rue Stanley, near rue Sher-brooke (& 514/845-9015), is awonder. At dinner, even the expen-sive four-course table dhte at LeBourlingueur, 363 St-Franois-Xavier, near rue St-Paul (& 514/845-3646), comes in under C$16(US$11). See p. 80 for Le Taj andp. 87 for Le Bourlingueur.

Best for Kids: On the assumptionthat a kid who doesnt like pizza isas rare as fish feathers, get over toPizzdlic, on The Main at 3509bd. St-Laurent, near rue Sher-brooke (& 514/282-6784). Theyhave all manner of toppings, fromthe utterly conventional to justshort of odd, and pastas, tooallto be eaten while looking out at thestreet, or while enjoying the openterrace in the back. See p. 91.

Best Traditional French Cuisine:Les Halles (see Best Wine List,above) has best illustrated the glo-ries of French cuisine for morethan a quarter century with judi-cious evolution in its cookeryrather than wrenching overhauls.See p. 77.

Best Italian Cuisine: Super-chicBuona Notte, 3518 bd. St-Lau-rent, near rue Sherbrooke (& 514/848-0644), may look as if itsmore concerned with being a placeto be seen than with what it sendsout of the kitchen, but the pastas,focaccias, and risottos rival theoccasional celebrity sightings. Seep. 89.

Best Mexican Cuisine: Theres aparty every night at Casa deMato, 440 rue St-Franois-Xavier, near rue St-Paul (& 514/844-7448), starting with the bird-bath-sized margaritas and dancingon through fried cactus, ceviche,and fish Veracruz. The infectiousenthusiasm of the staff is oftenheightened by live mariachi music.See p. 84.

Best Thai Cuisine: Chao Phraya,50 av. Laurier ouest, near bd. St-Laurent (& 514/272-5339),purveys examples of a most com-plex Asian cooking style at goodvalue in a sophisticated setting thateschews snarling gold temple dogs.See p. 94.

Best Seafood: Fish is the mainstayof Greek cooking, and it often

tastes best when preparations aresimplest. Grills are paramount atMilos, 5357 av. du Parc (& 514/272-3522), and the fish is merehours from the sea. See p. 91.

Best Pizza: The name says it all:Pizzdlic (see Best for Kids,above), where they do anythingfrom same-old, same-old tomatoand cheese to cutting-edge designerconcoctions with unlikely toppingslike snails. See p. 91.

Best Desserts: With patisseries onevery other corner, indulging increamy, gooey, blissfully caloricsweets doesnt require a difficultsearch. But along boulevard St-Laurent, make the effort to seekout heavenly Kilo, 5206 bd. St-Laurent, between rue Maguireand rue Fairmount (& 514/277-5039). They also have a branch at 1495 rue Ste-Catherine est (& 514/596-3933). See p. 96.

Best Late-Night Dining: PlateauMont-Royals most Parisian bistro,LExpress, 3927 rue St-Denis, at Rue Roy (& 514/845-5333),doesnt need a sign out front,because it stays full nightly until3am (Sun only until 2am). Simplebut toothsome recipes preparedwith the freshest ingredients keepthe night owls coming. See p. 90.

Best Outdoor Dining: Seriousfood isnt the lure at Le JardinNelson, 407 place Jacques-Cartier(& 514/861-5731). Musicclas-sical or jazzis what draws thecrowds, who partake of sweet orsavory crepes or very good pizzasunder the crabapple tree in thegarden. See p. 87.

Best People-Watching: Any of adozen cafes along St-Denis will fitthis bill, especially on weekends,when the Plateau Mont-Royalboulevard comes alive. But CafCherrier, 3635 rue St-Denis, atrue Cherrier (& 514/843-4308),might be the most fun, if you can

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F M O N T R A L & Q U B E C C I T Y10

find a seat on the wraparound ter-race. See p. 96.

Best Afternoon Tea: Gentilityand correctness prevail at the Cafde Paris in the Ritz-Carlton (seeBest Spot for a Business Lunch,above), where high tea is sub-limely reassuring at any time ofyear, but best in spring and sum-mer, when service moves outdoorsnext to the duck pond. See p. 65.

Best Brunch: Crepes with multi-tudes of fillings make for Frenchi-fied brunches at Le Jardin Nelson(see Best Outdoor Dining,above), which are served in the gar-den, inside, or on the terrace facingplace Jacques-Cartier. See p. 87.

Best Smoked Meat: Itll onlythrow another log on the local bat-tle for the title of best smokedmeat, which has blazed for at leasta century, but Chez SchwartzCharcuterie Hbraque de Mon-tral on The Main at 3895 bd. St-Laurent, north of rue Prince-Arthur (& 514/842-4813), servesup the definitive version of thisuntransplantable deli treat. See p. 91.

Best Fast Food: Where else butChez Better, 160 rue Notre-Dame,near place Jacques-Cartier (& 514/861-2617), where sausages andschnitzels dominate the menu,washed down with any of dozens offoreign beers. See p. 86.

Best New Restaurant: The youngchef at Area, 1429 rue Amherst,near rue Ste-Catherine (& 514/890-6691), made waves with hisupdated bistro food and hugeportions, and still does. But thisyears other candidate has to beSavannah, 4448 bd. St-Laurent (& 514/904-0277), which offersan updated version of SouthernAmerican cookery. See p. 90 and93.

Best Restaurant, Period: Ever-questing Normand Laprise and

partner Christine Lamarche keepToqu!, 3842 rue St-Denis, nearrue Roy (& 514/499-2084), in aleague of its own. Its postmodern,its postnouvelle, its dazzling!Nipping at their heels, though, isNuances (see Best Spot for a Cel-ebration, above). See p. 88 forToqu! and p. 93 for Nuances.

QUEBEC CITY Best Spot for a Romantic Din-

ner: Stars above, tables illumi-nated by the flicker of candlelight,unobtrusive service, and even thename, Le Saint-Amour, 48 rueSte-Ursule (& 418/694-0667),bespeak romance. See p. 222.

Best View: Revolving rooftoprestaurants rarely dish out food as elevated as their lofty venues.LAstral in the Loews Le Con-corde hotel, 1225 cours duGnral-de Montcalm (& 418/647-2222) is an exception. Thefood here is above average and the cost is entirely reasonable. Seep. 224.

Best Bistro: In a city that special-izes in the informal bistro tradi-tion, LEchaud, 73 rue Sault-au-Matelot, near rue St-Paul (& 418/692-1299), is a star. Classic dishesare all in place, from confit decanard to steak frites. The diningterrace is on a pedestrian-onlystreet. See p. 226.

Best New Restaurant By Far:Yuzu, 438 rue de LEglise (& 418/521-7253) is getting everyonesattention with a kitchen thatexperiments with original presen-tations of sushi and other Japanesecuisine. Very hot. See p. 225.

Best Restaurant (No Argu-ments!): Laurie Raphal, 117 rueDalhousie (& 418/692-4555), isnamed for the owners children, achoice that isnt lost on those din-ers who devote great care to thingsthey hold importantfamily,

B E S T D I N I N G B E T S 11

friends, and the tables aroundwhich they gather. See p. 225.

Best Rockin Hot Spot WithGood Food: You dont have to beyoung, gorgeous, and hip to getinto the Voodoo Grill, 575Grande-Alle (& 418/647-2000),but there seems to be a lot of self-selection going on. As part of acomplex that includes two bars andthe Maurice disco, the noise level isbrutal and the pace frantic, makingthe surprisingly good food all themore remarkable. See p. 224.

Best Seafood: The owner of LeMarie-Clarisse, 12 rue du Petit-Champlain (& 418/692-0857),selects all the just-off-the-boatseafood served at his comfortablebistro at the bottom of BreakneckStairs. Theres a fireplace insideand a terrace outside. See p. 226.

Best Pizza: For conventional andunusual toppings on crispy-thincrusts that work better with a knifeand fork than fingers, hit LesFrres de la Cte, 1190 rue St-Jean(& 418/692-5445). See p. 222.

Best People-Watching: Le Marie-Clarisses (see Best Seafood,above) few outdoor tablesperched above the main pedes-trian intersection of Quartier duPetit-Champlainmonopolize anunsurpassed observation point. Seep. 226.

Best Place to Take a Teenager:Tasty pizzas and inventive pastascoupled with a thumping stereoand the noise level of a 20-lanebowling alley make Les Frres dela Cte (see Best Pizza, above) alogical choice for parents withteens. See p. 222.

C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F M O N T R A L & Q U B E C C I T Y12

Planning Your Trip to Montral & Qubec City

Montral and Qubec City have a stronger foreign flavor than other cities inCanada, and the first language of most residents is French. But once you decideto go, pulling together information on ways to get there, border formalities,exchanging money, climate, lodging possibilities, and related details is almost aseasy as getting from Illinois to Florida. The information below and in the FastFacts sections in chapters 3 and 11 should help speed the process along.

2

1 Visitor InformationQubec tourism authorities producevolumes of detailed and highly usefulpublications, and theyre easy to obtainby mail, by phone, or in person. Tocontact Tourisme Qubec, write C.P.979, Montral, Qubec H3C 2W3,call & 877/266-5687, info@tourisme.gouv.qc.ca, or visit their website atwww.bonjourquebec.com.

The Qubec government maintainsa number of offices in the UnitedStates and abroad, which can providespecific tourism information aboutthe province:

In the U.S.: Dlgation duQubec, 1 Rockefeller Plaza, 26th

Floor, New York, NY 10020-2201 (& 212/397-0200).

In the U.K.: Dlgation duQubec, 59 Pall Mall, London SW1Y5JH, England (& 071/930-8314);High Commission of Canada, CanadaHouse, Cockspur Street, TrafalgarSquare, London SW1Y 5BJ, England(& 071/258-6600).

Besides these offices outsideQubec, the province has a large officein Montral (see contact informationabove), and there are convenientregional offices in Montral andQubec City as well. See VisitorInformation, in chapters 3 and 11 formore details on the regional offices.

2 Entry Requirements & CustomsENTRY REQUIREMENTSFor information on how to get a pass-port, see Obtaining a Passport at theend of this sectionthe websiteslisted provide downloadable passportapplications as well as the current feesfor processing passport applications.For an up-to-date country-by-countrylisting of passport requirementsaround the world, go to the ForeignEntry Requirement web page of the

U.S. State Department at http://travel.state.gov/foreignentryreqs.html.

U.S. citizens or permanent resi-dents of the United States require nei-ther passports nor visas but will needsome proof of citizenship, such as abirth certificate, plus a photo ID, toenter Canada and to reenter theUnited States. A passport is the logicaland preferred document, even thoughit isnt specifically required. Permanent

U.S. residents who are not citizensmust have their Alien RegistrationCards (Green Cards) with them. Ifyou plan to drive into Canada, be sureto have your cars registration handy aswell.

An important point for teenagetravelers: All persons under 19 requirea letter from a parent or guardiangranting them permission to travel toCanada. The letter must state the trav-elers name and the duration of thetrip. It is also essential that teenagerscarry proof of identity with photo.Otherwise, the letter from Mom andDad is useless at the border.

An important point for parents: Ifyou are divorced, separated, or travel-ing without your spouse and arebringing your children to Canada,bring a document, preferably nota-rized, certifying the permission of theother spouse or proof of legal custody.

Citizens of Australia, New Zealand,the United Kingdom, and Irelandneed only carry a valid passport. Citi-zens of many other countries musthave visas, applied for well in advanceat their nearest Canadian embassy orconsulate. Questions can be addressedto the Canadian Immigration Divi-sion, place du Portage, 140 Prome-nade du Portage, Phase 4, Hull,Qubec K1A 1L1 (& 819/994-2424;www.cic.gc.ca).

OBTAIN ING A PASSPORTFor Residents of the United StatesWhether youre applying in person or

by mail, you can download passportapplications from the U.S. StateDepartment website at http://travel.state.gov. For general information,call the National Passport Agency(& 202/647-0518). To find yourregional passport office, either checkthe U.S. State Department website orcall the National Passport Informa-tion Center (& 900/225-5674); thefee is 55 per minute for automatedinformation and $1.50 per minute foroperator-assisted calls.

For Residents of the United King-dom To pick up an application for astandard 10-year passport (5-yearpassport for children under 16), visityour nearest passport office, majorpost office, or travel agency or contactthe United Kingdom Passport Ser-vice at & 0870/521-0410 or searchits website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.

For Residents of Ireland You canapply for a 10-year passport at thePassport Office, Setanta Centre,Molesworth Street, Dublin 2 (& 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/iveagh).Those under age 18 and over 65 mustapply for a 12 3-year passport. Youcan also apply at 1A South Mall, Cork(& 021/272-525) or at most mainpost offices.

For Residents of Australia You canpick up an application from your localpost office or any branch of PassportsAustralia, but you must schedule aninterview at the passport office to

CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TR IP TO MONTRAL & QUBEC C I TY14

Passport SavvyAllow plenty of time before your trip to apply for a passport; processingnormally takes 3 weeks but can take longer during busy periods (espe-cially spring). And keep in mind that if you need a passport in a hurry,youll pay a higher processing fee. When traveling, safeguard your pass-port in an inconspicuous, inaccessible place like a money belt and keep acopy of the critical pages with your passport number in a separate place.If you lose your passport, visit the nearest consulate of your native coun-try as soon as possible for a replacement.

Tips

present your application materials.Call the Australian Passport Infor-mation Service at & 131-232, orvisit the government website at www.passports.gov.au.

For Residents of New Zealand Youcan pick up a passport application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their website.Contact the Passports Office at & 0800/225-050 in New Zealand or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.passports.govt.nz.

CUSTOMSWHAT YOU CAN BR INGINTO CANADARegulations are flexible in mostrespects, but visitors can expect at leasta probing question or two at the bor-der or airport. Normal baggage andpersonal possessions should be noproblem, but tobacco and alcoholicbeverages face limitations. Individuals18 years or over are only allowed tobring in 50 cigars, 200 cigarettes, and400 grams of loose tobacco. In addi-tion, an Imperial quart (just over aliter) of wine or liquor may be broughtin, or a curiously generous case (24cans) of beer, assuming the bearer is ator over the minimum drinking age inQubec, which is 18.

Pets with proper vaccinationrecords may be admitted, but inquirein advance about necessary proceduresat one of the Dlgation du Qubecoffices listed above and see Pets inFast Facts: Montral, in chapter 3.Talk to U.S. Customs (see below)about bringing pets back home.

There are strict regulations regard-ing the import of plants, food prod-ucts, and firearms. Hunters with validlicenses can bring in some gear, buthandguns and fully automatic fire-arms are prohibited. Fishing tackleposes no problem as long as the propernonresident license is obtained beforecasting a lure.

For more detailed information con-cerning Customs regulations, write tothe Canada Customs Office, 400place dYouville, 2nd floor, Montral,PQ H2Y 2C2 (& 514/283-2949 or514/283-2959), or check out the cus-toms website at www.ccra-adrc.gc.ca.

A car that is driven into Canada canstay for up to a year, but it must leavewith the owner or a duty will belevied. The possession or use of a radardetector is prohibited, whether or notit is connected. Police officers can con-fiscate it and fine the owner C$500 toC$1,000 (US$357US$714).

WHAT YOU CAN TAKEHOME FROM CANADAReturning U.S. citizens who have beenaway for at least 48 hours are allowed tobring back, once every 30 days, $800worth of merchandise duty-free. Youllbe charged a flat rate of 4% duty on thenext $1,000 worth of purchases. Besure to have your receipts handy. Onmailed gifts, the duty-free limit is $200.With some exceptions, you cannotbring fresh fruits and vegetables intothe United States. For specifics on whatyou can bring back, download theinvaluable free pamphlet Know BeforeYou Go online at www.customs.gov.(Click on Travel, and then click onKnow Before You Go OnlineBrochure.) Or contact the U.S. Cus-toms Service, 1300 Pennsylvania Ave.NW, Washington, DC 20229 (& 877/287-8867).

U.K. citizens returning from a non-EU country have a customs allowanceof: 200 cigarettes; 50 cigars; 250grams of smoking tobacco; 2 liters ofstill table wine; 1 liter of spirits orstrong liqueurs (over 22% volume); 2liters of fortified wine, sparkling wineor other liqueurs; 60cc (ml) perfume;250cc (ml) of toilet water; and 145worth of all other goods, includinggifts and souvenirs. People under 17cannot have the tobacco or alcohol

E N T RY R E Q U I R E M E N T S & C U S T O M S 15

allowance. For more information,contact HM Customs & Excise at & 0845/010-9000 (from outside theU.K., 020/8929-0152), or consulttheir website at www.hmce.gov.uk.

The duty-free allowance in Aus-tralia is A$400 or, for those under 18,A$200. Citizens can bring in 250 cig-arettes or 250 grams of loose tobacco,and 1,125 milliliters of alcohol. Ifyoure returning with valuables youalready own, such as foreign-madecameras, you should file form B263. Ahelpful brochure available from Aus-tralian consulates or Customs offices isKnow Before You Go. For more infor-mation, call the Australian CustomsService at & 1300/363-263, or logon to www.customs.gov.au.

The duty-free allowance for NewZealand is NZ$700. Citizens over 17

can bring in 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars,or 250 grams of tobacco (or a mixtureof all three if their combined weightdoesnt exceed 250g); plus 4.5 liters ofwine and beer, or 1.125 liters ofliquor. New Zealand currency doesnot carry import or export restric-tions. Fill out a certificate of export,listing the valuables you are taking outof the country; that way, you canbring them back without paying duty.Most questions are answered in a freepamphlet available at New Zealandconsulates and Customs offices: NewZealand Customs Guide for Travellers,Notice no. 4. For more information,contact New Zealand Customs, TheCustomhouse, 1721 Whitmore St.,Box 2218, Wellington (& 04/473-6099 or 0800/428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).

CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TR IP TO MONTRAL & QUBEC C I TY16

3 MoneyCURRENCYCanadian money comes in graduateddenominations of dollars and cents.Although the Canadian dollar hasbeen gathering strength of late, theexchange rate is still good for Ameri-cans, because the Canadian dollar isworth about 71 in U.S. currency,give or take a couple of points dailyvariation. This is the exchange rateused to convert prices in this book.Put another way, one U.S. dollar buysabout C$1.40 in Canadian money.This means that U.S. dollars gain sub-stantially more spending power themoment they are changed for localcurrency (a return, for example, ofapproximately C$490 Canadian forevery US$350). And because prices

are roughly on par with those in theU.S., the difference is real, not imagi-nary. Prices in this book, unless other-wise indicated, are given in bothCanadian and U.S. dollars.

Visitors can bring in or take out anyamount of money they wish, but ifU.S. citizens import or export sums ofUS$5,000 or more, a report of thetransaction must be filed with U.S.Customs.

Aside from the $2 coin, Canadiancoins are similar to their Americancounterparts: 1, 5, 10, 25. Bills$2, $5, $10, $20, $50, $100are allthe same size but have different colors,depending on the denomination. Thegold-colored $1 coin (called a loonieby Canadians because of the depiction

Small ChangeWhen you change money, ask for some small bills or loose change. Pettycash will come in handy for tipping and public transportation. Considerkeeping the change separate from your larger bills, so that its readilyaccessible and youll be less of a target for theft.

Tips

of a loon on one side) has replaced the$1 bill. A $2 coin, with a bronze cen-ter surrounded by a nickel disk, ismeant to replace the old $2 bill, whichis still occasionally found in circula-tion. (The $2 coin is sometimes calleda twonie, a reference to the next-smaller coin.) French speakers some-times refer to a dollar as a piastre.

Many stores accept U.S. dollars,often posting a sign to that effect andgiving the percentage exchange ratethey offer. Usually, that amount is lessthan what banks offer, but sometimesit is more favorable because manyestablishments are eager to attractU.S. tourist dollars. As a rule, though,its more advantageous to changemoney and travelers checks at a bank,and better still to obtain cash at ATMsor use credit cards (see below).

Its a good idea to exchange at leastsome moneyjust enough to coverairport incidentals and transportationto your hotelbefore you leave home,so you can avoid lines at airport ATMs.You can exchange money at your localAmerican Express or Thomas Cookoffice or at some banks. If youre faraway from a bank with currency-exchange services, American Expressoffers travelers checks and foreign currency at www.americanexpress.comor & 800/807-6233, though this car-ries a $15 order fee and additionalshipping costs.

ATMSThe easiest and best way to get cashaway from home is from an ATM. Asubiquitous in Qubec as in the UnitedStates, ATMs are found in most of the

M O N E Y 17

Thanks.The Canadian Dollar, the U.S. Dollar & the British Pound

For U.S. Readers The rate of exchange used to calculate the dollar valuesgiven in this book was US$1 = approximately C$1.40 (or C$1 = US71).For British Readers The rate of exchange used to calculate the pound valuesin the accompanying table was 1 = approximately C$2.25 (or C$1 = 44p)

C$ US$ UK C$ US$ UK

.10 .07 .04 35.00 23.45 15.55

.25 .18 .11 40.00 28.57 17.78

.50 .35 .22 45.00 32.14 20.00

1.00 .71 .44 50.00 35.71 22.22

2.00 1.43 .88 55.00 39.29 24.44

3.00 2.14 1.33 60.00 42.86 26.67

4.00 2.85 1.77 65.00 46.43 28.89

5.00 3.57 2.22 70.00 50.00 31.11

6.00 4.29 2.66 75.00 53.57 33.33

7.00 5.00 3.11 80.00 57.14 35.56

8.00 5.71 3.55 85.00 60.71 37.78

9.00 6.43 4.00 90.00 64.29 40.00

10.00 7.14 4.44 95.00 67.86 42.22

15.00 10.71 6.67 100.00 71.43 44.44

20.00 14.29 8.89 150.00 107.14 66.67

25.00 17.86 11.11 200.00 142.86 88.89

30.00 21.43 13.33 250.00 178.57 111.11

same places, outside or inside bankbranches, but also increasingly atother locations, including theprovinces new casinos. Look for signsreading GUICHET ATOMATIQUE orSERVICES ATOMATISES.

The Cirrus (& 800/424-7787;www.mastercard.com) and PLUS(& 800/843-7587; www.visa.com)networks span the globe; look at theback of your bank card to see whichnetwork youre on, then call or checkonline for ATM locations at your desti-nation. Be sure you know your personalidentification number (PIN) before youleave home and be sure to find out yourdaily withdrawal limit before youdepart. Also keep in mind that many

banks impose a fee every time a card isused at a different banks ATM, andthat fee can be higher for internationaltransactions (up to $5 or more) than fordomestic ones (where theyre rarelymore than $1.50). On top of this, thebank from which you withdraw cashmay charge its own fee. For interna-tional withdrawal fees, ask your bank.

You can also get cash advances onyour credit card at an ATM. Keep inmind that credit card companies try toprotect themselves from theft by limit-ing the funds someone can withdrawoutside their home country, so call yourcredit card company before you leavehome to let them know that youll beusing your card in a different place.

CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TR IP TO MONTRAL & QUBEC C I TY18

What to Do If Your Wallet is Lost or Stolen

Be sure to tell all of your credit card companies the minute you discoveryour wallet has been lost or stolen and file a report at the nearest policeprecinct. Your credit card company or insurer may require a police reportnumber or record of the loss. Most credit card companies have an emer-gency toll-free number to call if your card is lost or stolen; they may beable to wire you a cash advance immediately or deliver an emergencycredit card in a day or two. Visas Canadian emergency number is & 800/847-2911. American Express cardholders should call & 301/214-8228 col-lect. MasterCard holders should call & 800/307-7309. For other creditcards, call the toll-free number directory at & 800/555-1212 and ask foryour card company.

If you need emergency cash over the weekend when all banks andAmerican Express offices are closed, you can have money wired to youvia Western Union (& 800/325-6000; www.westernunion.com).

Identity theft or fraud are potential complications of losing your wal-let, especially if youve lost your drivers license along with your cash andcredit cards. Notify the major credit-reporting bureaus immediately;placing a fraud alert on your records may protect you against liability forcriminal activity. The three major U.S. credit-reporting agencies areEquifax (& 800/766-0008; www.equifax.com), Experian (& 888/397-3742; www.experian.com), and TransUnion (& 800/680-7289; www.transunion.com). Finally, if youve lost all forms of photo ID call your air-line and explain the situation; they might allow you to board the planeif you have a copy of your passport or birth certificate and a copy of thepolice report youve filed.

TRAVELERS CHECKSTravelers checks are something of ananachronism from the days before theATM made cash accessible at anytime. Travelers checks used to be theonly sound alternative to travelingwith dangerously large amounts ofcash. They were as reliable as currency,but, unlike cash, could be replaced iflost or stolen.

These days, travelers checks are lessnecessary because most cities have 24-hour ATMs that allow you towithdraw small amounts of cash asneeded. However, keep in mind thatyou will likely be charged an ATMwithdrawal fee if the bank is not yourown, so if youre withdrawing moneyevery day, you might be better off withtravelers checksprovided that youdont mind showing identificationevery time you want to cash one.

You can get travelers checks atalmost any bank. American Expressoffers denominations of $20, $50,$100, $500, and (for cardholdersonly) $1,000. Youll pay a servicecharge ranging from 1% to 4%. Youcan also get American Express trav-elers checks over the phone by calling& 800/221-7282; Amex gold andplatinum cardholders who use thisnumber are exempt from the 1% fee.AAA members can obtain checkswithout a fee at most AAA offices.

Visa offers travelers checks atCitibank locations nationwide, as wellas at several other banks. The servicecharge ranges between 1.5% and 2%;checks come in denominations of $20,$50, $100, $500, and $1,000. Call & 800/732-1322 for information.AAA members can obtain Visa checkswithout a fee at most AAA offices or by calling & 866/339-3378. Master-Card also offers travelers checks. Call& 800/223-9920 for a location nearyou.

Foreign currency travelers checksare useful if youre traveling to onecountry, or to the euro zone; theyreaccepted at locations such as bed-and-breakfasts where dollar checks maynot be, and they minimize the amountof math you have to do at your desti-nation. American Express offerschecks in Australian dollars, Canadiandollars, British pounds, euros, andJapanese yen. Visa checks come inAustralian, Canadian, British andEuro versions; MasterCard offersthose four plus yen and South Africanrands.

If you choose to carry travelerschecks, be sure to keep a record oftheir serial numbers separate fromyour checks in the event that they arestolen or lost. Youll get a refund fasterif you know the numbers.

M O N E Y 19

Dear Visa: Im Off to Qubec!Some credit card companies recommend that you notify them of anyimpending trip abroad so that they dont become suspicious when thecard is used numerous times in a foreign destination and your charges areblocked. Even if you dont call your credit card company in advance, youcan call always the cards toll-free emergency number (see What to Do IfYour Wallet is Lost or Stolen, earlier in this chapter) if a charge isrefuseda good reason to carry the phone number with you. But perhapsthe most important lesson is to carry more than one card on your trip; ifone card doesnt work for any number of reasons, youll have a backupcard just in case.

Tips

CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TR IP TO MONTRAL & QUBEC C I TY20

CREDIT CARDSCredit cards are accepted as widely inQubec as in the United States. Visaand MasterCard dominate the market,followed by the American Expresscard, Diners Club, and its Canadiancousin, enRoute. The Discover andCarte Blanche cards fall well behindthe others in usage. Charge slips arewritten up in Canadian dollars, andcard companies convert the amount toU.S. dollars when they credit thetransaction to your account.

Credit cards are safe way to carrymoney. They provide a convenientrecord of all your expenses, and theygenerally offer good exchange rates.You can also withdraw cash advancesfrom your credit cards at banks or

ATMs, provided you know your PIN.If youve forgotten yours, or didnteven know you had one, call the num-ber on the back of your credit cardand ask the bank to send it to you. Itusually takes 5 to 7 business days,though some banks will provide thenumber over the phone if you tellthem your mothers maiden name orsome other personal information.

Your credit card company will likelycharge a commission (1% or 2%) onevery foreign purchase you make, butdont sweat this small stuff; for mostpurchases, youll still get the best dealwith credit cards when you factor inthings like ATM fees and higher trav-elers check exchange rates.

4 When to GoHigh season is late May through earlySeptember, when hotels are mostlikely to be full and charge their high-est rates. Even then, though, weekendsare cheaper and package plans reducethe bite, so advance planning has itsrewards. The period from Christmasto New Years is also busy (and moreexpensive), as are the days given towinter festivals in both Montral andQubec City.

CLIMATETemperatures are usually a few degreeslower in Qubec City than in Mon-tral. Spring, short but sweet, arrivesaround the middle of May. Summer(mid-June through mid-Sept) tends tobe humid in Montral, Qubec City,and other communities along the St.Lawrence River, and drier at the

inland resorts of the Laurentides andthe Cantons-de-lEst. Intense but usu-ally brief heat waves mark July andearly August, but temperatures rarelyremain oppressive in the evening.

Autumn (Sept and Oct) is as shortand changeable as spring, with warmdays and cool or chilly nights. Cana-dian maples blaze with color forweeks. Winter brings dependablesnows for skiing in the Laurentides,the Cantons-de-lEst, and Charlevoix.After a sleigh ride or a ski run in ParcMont-Royal, Montrals undergroundcity is a climate-controlled blessing.Mid-February is the time for QubecCitys robust Carnaval dHiver (Win-ter Carnival). Snow and slush aremore-or-less constantly present fromNovember to March.

Montrals Average Monthly TemperaturesJan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec

High (F) 21 25 34 52 65 74 78 77 70 56 43 26(C) 6 4 1 11 18 23 26 25 21 13 6 3

Low (F) 8 12 23 37 48 57 62 60 53 43 32 15(C) 13 11 5 3 9 14 17 16 12 6 0 9

HOLIDAYSIn Qubec province, the importantpublic holidays are New Years Day (Jan1); Good Friday and Easter Monday(late Mar or Apr); Victoria Day (May24 or nearest Mon); St-Jean-BaptisteDay, Qubecs national day (June24); Canada Day (July 1); Labour Day(first Mon in Sept); Canadian Thanks-giving Day (second Mon in Oct);Remembrance Day (Nov 11); andChristmas (Dec 25 and 26).

MONTREAL & QUEBECCITY CALENDAR OFEVENTSFrom June to September, only a serious mis-adventure in planning might allow visitors tomiss a celebration of some sort in Montraland Qubec City. If somethings not going onin one city, its bound to be happening in theother, and its easy to get from one to theother.

FebruaryCarnaval de Qubec (formerlyCarnaval dHiver), Qubec City.Usually Qubec is courtly and dig-nified, but all that is cast aside whenthe symbolic snowman called Bon-homme (Good Fellow) comes on tothe scene to preside over these 15days of merriment in early Februaryevery year. During the event, morethan a million revelers descendupon the city, eddying around themonumental ice palace and icesculptures and attending a fullschedule of concerts, dances, andparades. The mood is heightenedby the availability of plastic trum-pets and canes filled with a concoc-tion called Caribou, the principalingredients of which are cheap

whisky and sweet red wine. Perhapsits presence explains the eagernesswith which certain Qubecois par-ticipate in the canoe race across thetreacherous ice floes of the St.Lawrence.

Much of the Carnival is held infront of the Parliament Buildingjust outside the walls to the OldCityin early February. Hotelreservations must be made far inadvance. Scheduled events are free.Call & 418/626-3716 or visithttp://boutique.carnaval.qc.ca fordetails. Dates in 2004 are January30 through February 15.

La Fte des Neiges (Snow Festival),Montral. Montrals answer toQubec Citys Winter Carnival fea-tures outdoor events such as harnessracing, barrel jumping, racing bedson ice, canoe races, snowshoeing,skating, and cross-country skiing.The less athletically inclined cancheer from the sidelines and theninspect the snow and ice sculptures.The event, held during the first 2 weeks of February, takes placemostly on Ile Notre-Dame, in thePort and Vieux-Montral, and inParc Maisonneuve. Call & 514/872-4537 or visit www.fetedesneiges.com for details. Dates in 2004are January 24 through February 8.

Festival Montral en Lumire.Filling a hole in the yearly schedule,the self-dubbed City of Festivals hascreated this High Lights celebra-tion. It brings together a somewhatdisparate collection of creative andperforming events, from nearly 200culinary competitions and specialmuseum exhibitions to multimedia

M O N T R A L & Q U B E C C I T Y C A L E N D A R O F E V E N T S 21

Qubec Citys Average Monthly TemperaturesJan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec

High (F) 19 21 32 46 60 70 76 74 65 52 39 23(C) 7 6 0 8 16 21 24 23 18 11 4 5

Low (F) 5 8 19 32 43 53 57 56 48 37 28 12(C) 15 13 7 0 6 12 14 13 9 3 2 11

light shows and classical and popconcerts by international musicalgreats. Call & 888/477-9955 or seewww.montrealhighlights.com formore information. Dates in 2004are February 19 to February 29.

May/JuneFestival de Thtre des Amriques,Montral. This festival presents twoweeks of contemporary theaterworks from artists throughout theAmericas, many on the cutting edgeof creativity. Performances are heldat theaters throughout the city. Call& 514/842-0704 or see www.fta.qc.ca for details. Late May to earlyJune. Call for exact dates.

Montral Museums Day. On thisday museums are free for all visitors,and free shuttle buses carry visitorsto most of them. Call the tourismoffice (& 877/266-5687) fordetails. Last Sunday in May.

Montral Bike Fest. Early in June,more than 45,000 enthusiasts con-verge on Montral to participate in avariety of cycling competitions,including a nocturnal bike ride, a26km (16-mile) outing for up to10,000 children, and the gruelingTour de lIle, a day-long 66km (41-mile) race around the rim of theisland before more than 120,000spectators. The Tour de lIle, whichbegan in 1984, attracts 30,000 par-ticipants, almost as many of themwomen as men. Call & 800/567-8356 for details. First week in June.

Saint-Ambroise Montral FringeFestival. In performance spacesclustered along or near bd. St-Lau-rent, about 70 theater groups per-form in highly esoteric productionsthat often defy classification. As inall such endeavors, satisfaction can-not be guaranteed, but then, ticketsare only C$10 and you may find agem. Call & 514/849-3378 orcheck www.montrealfringe.ca. Tendays starting in mid-June.

Festival Mondial de la Bire,Montral. Yes, brew fans, this is a5-day festival devoted to yourfavorite beverage. From worldbrands to boutique microbreweries,over 70 companies showcase over250 brands of their pride-and-joys,employing workshops, cookingdemos, musical performances, and,of course, pub food and tastings,tastings, tastings of the featuredhoppy tipple. For info and tickets,call & 514/722-9640 or checkwww.festivalmondialbiere.qc.ca.Early June.

Mosacultures InternationalesMontral. This fragrant horticul-tural event has gardeners and floraldesigners from up to 50 countriesand cities creating (sometimes large)three-dimensional floral sculpturesand carpets for prizes in several cat-egories. The Vieux-Port (Old Port)is the venue. Call & 514/868-2003or check www.mosaiculture.ca. LateJune to early October.

Jean-Baptiste Day. HonoringSaint John the Baptist, the patronsaint of French Canadians, this ftenationale is marked by more festivi-ties and far more enthusiasmthroughout Qubec province thanCanada Day on July 1. Its Qubecsnational holiday. In the past, itshallmark parade had been marredby considerable drunkenness andvandalism in both Montral andQubec City. A couple of years ago,in a successful effort to control suchproblems in Montral, the paradewas held along the streets of Vieux-Montral on the night of June 23,the day before the actual holiday.Call & 418/849-2560 or log on towww.cfn.org for details. June 24.

Le Mondial SAQ (InternationalFireworks Competition), Mon-tral. The open-air theater in LaRonde amusement park on Ile Ste-Hlne is the best place to view this

CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TR IP TO MONTRAL & QUBEC C I TY22

fireworks extravaganza, althoughfireworks can be enjoyed fromalmost any point overlooking theriver. Tickets to the show also pro-vide entrance to the amusementpark. Kids, needless to say, love thewhole explosive business. The 30-minute shows are staged by compa-nies from several countries. Becauseparking is limited, its best to usethe Mtro. Call & 514/397-2000or visit www.lemondialsaq.com/en/for details. Saturdays in late June,Sundays in July.

JulyFestival International de Jazz deMontral. Montral has a long tra-dition in jazz, and this enormouslysuccessful festival has been celebrat-ing Americas art form since 1979.Miles Davis, Chet Baker, andDizzie Gillespie have been amongthe many headliners in past years,but it costs money to hear stars ofsuch magnitude. Fortunately, hun-dreds of other concerts are free, andare often presented on the streetsand plazas of the city. You can see(and hear) events along rue Ste-Catherine and rue Jeanne-Mance. For information and tick-ets, call & 800/361-4595 or 514/790-1245 or visit www.montrealjazzfest.com. Late June to early July.Call or visit the site for exact dates.

Festival dEt (Summer Festival),Qubec City. The largest culturalevent in the French-speaking world,or so its managers say, this festivalhas attracted artists from Africa,Asia, Europe, and North Americasince it began in 1967. There aremore than 500 events showcasingtheater, music, and dance, with1,000 performers from 20 countries.Over one million people come towatch and listen. Jazz and folk com-bos perform free in an open-air the-ater next to City Hall; visiting danceand folklore troupes put on shows;and concerts, theatrical productions,

and related events fill the days andevenings. Call & 888/992-5200 or418/529-5200 for details or checkwww.infofestival.com. Ten days inmid-July.

Festival International NuitsdAfrique, Montral. This WorldBeat musical event showcases nearly300 musicians from the Caribbean,the Americas, and Africa. Perfor-mances take place in Club Soda,Club Balattou, and Place Berri. Call& 514/499-3462 or check outwww.festnuitafric.com for details.Ten days in mid-July.

Festival Juste pour Rire (Just forLaughs Festival), Montral. Thiscelebration strives to do for humorwhat the more famous jazz festivalhas done for that musical form.Comics perform in many venues,some free, some not. Both Francoph-one and Anglophone comics, jug-glers, and other funny acts frommany countries participate. Its heldalong rue St-Denis and elsewhere inthe Latin Quarter. Call & 888/244-3155 or 514/790-4242 for details orcheck www.hahaha.com. Ten days inmid-July.

Les Grands Feux Loto-Qubec,Qubec City. The capital has itsown fireworks festival, overlappingthe one in Montral, and using thehighly scenic Montmorency Falls asits setting. Five pyrotechnical teamsare invited from as many differentcountries in this international com-petition. Their explosive displaysare coordinated with appropriatemusic, as in Montral. Call & 888/934-3473 or 418/692-3736 orcheck www.quebecfireworks.com.Wednesdays and Saturdays in lateJuly to mid-August.

AugustLes Medievales de Qubec(Qubec Medieval Festival),Qubec City. Hundreds of actors,

M O N T R A L & Q U B E C C I T Y C A L E N D A R O F E V E N T S 23

artists, entertainers, and other partic-ipants from Europe, Canada, and theUnited States converge on QubecCity in period dress to re-create dailyscenes from 5 centuries ago. This isgiant costume party, with peopleplaying knights, troubadours, andladies-in-waiting. Parades, joustingtournaments, recitals of ancientmusic, and the Grand Cavalcade (LaGrande Chevauche), featuring hun-dreds of costumed equestrians, arejust a few highlights. Fireworks arethe one modern touch during this 5-day festival. Come in medievalattire if you wish. Held in QubecCity only in odd-numbered years.(In even-numbered years, its sisterevent, the Festival des Remparts,takes place in Dinan, France.) Heldin the streets and public grounds ofOld Qubec. Call & 418/692-1993for details. Early to mid-August.

Festival des Films du Monde(World Film Festival), Montral.This festival has been internationalfilm event since 1976. Some 500indoor and outdoor screenings takeplace over 12 days, including 200feature films from more than 50countries, drawing the usualthrongs of directors, stars, andwannabes. It isnt as gaudy or as media-heavy as Cannes, but itstaken almost as seriously. Variousmovie theaters play host. Call & 514/848-3883 or check www.ffm-montreal.org for details. LateAugust to early September.

SeptemberFall Foliage. The maple trees blazewith color and a walk in the parksand squares of Montral andQubec City is a refreshing tonic.Its a perfect time for a drive in theLaurentides or Cantons-de-LEst(near Montral) and Ile dOrlansor up into Charlevoix from QubecCity. Mid- to late September.

OctoberFestival International de la Nou-velle Danse, Montral. This 12-day showcase, held every 2 years(in odd years), invites troupes andchoreographers from Canada, theUnited States, and Europe to various performance spaces. Call & 514/287-1423 for details. EarlyOctober.

Festival du Nouveau Cinma,Montral. Screenings of new andexperimental films ignite contro-versy, and forums are held on thelatest trends in film and video.Events take place at halls and cine-mas throughout the city. Call & 514/843-4725 for details. Tendays in mid-October.

December/JanuaryChristmas/New Years, QubecCity. Celebrating the holidays a laFranaise is a particular treat inQubec City, with its streets bankedwith snow and almost every ancientbuilding sporting wreaths and dec-orated fir trees.

CHAPTER 2 . PLANNING YOUR TR IP TO MONTRAL & QUBEC C I TY24

5 Travel InsuranceCheck your existing insurance policiesand credit card coverage before youbuy travel insurance. You may alreadybe covered for canceled tickets, lostluggage, or medical expenses. The costof travel insurance varies widely,depending on the cost and length ofyour trip, your age, health, and thetype of trip youre taking.

TRIP-CANCELLATION INSUR-ANCE Trip-cancellation insurancehelps you get your money back if youhave to back out of a trip, if you haveto go home early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Allowed rea-sons for cancellation can range fromsickness to natural disasters to the StateDepartment declaring your destination

unsafe for travel. (Insurers usually wontcover vague fears, though, as manytravelers discovered who tried to canceltheir trips in Oct 2001 because theywere wary of flying.) In this unstableworld, trip-cancellation insurance is agood buy if youre getting tickets wellin advancewho knows what the stateof the world, or of your airline, will bein nine months? Insurance policydetails vary, so read the fine printandespecially make sure that your airline orcruise line is on the list of carriers covered in case of bankruptcy. Forinformation, contact one of the follow-ing insurers: Access America (& 866/807-3982; www.accessamerica.com);Travel Guard International (& 800/826-4919; www.travelguard.com);Travel Insured International (& 800/243-3174; www.travelinsured.com);and Travelex Insurance Services(& 888/457-4602; www.travelex-insurance.com).

MEDICAL INSURANCE Mosthealth insurance policies cover you ifyou get sick away from homebutcheck, particularly if youre insured byan HMO. With the exception of cer-tain HMOs and Medicare/Medicaid,your medical insurance should covermedical treatmenteven hospitalcareabroad. However, medicaltreatment in Canada isnt free for for-eigners, and hospitals make you payyour bills up front. Theyll send you arefund after youve returned home andfiled the necessary paperwork. And ina worst-case scenario, theres the highcost of emergency evacuation. If you

require additional medical insurance,try MEDEX International (& 800/527-0218 or 410/453-6300; www.medexassist.com) or Travel Assis-tance International (& 800/821-2828; www.travelassistance.com; forgeneral information on services, callthe companys Worldwide AssistanceServices, Inc., at 800/777-8710).

LOST-LUGGAGE INSURANCEOn domestic flights, checked baggageis covered up to $2,500 per ticketedpassenger. On international flights(including U.S. portions of interna-tional trips), baggage is limited toapproximately $9.07 per pound, up toapproximately $635 per checked bag.If you plan to check items more valu-able than the standard liability, see ifyour valuables are covered by yourhomeowners policy, get baggageinsurance as part of your comprehen-sive travel-insurance package, or buyTravel Guards BagTrak product.Dont buy insurance at the airport, asits usually overpriced. Be sure to takeany valuables or irreplaceable itemswith you in your carry-on luggage, asmany valuables (including books,money and electronics) arent coveredby airline policies.

If your luggage is lost, immediatelyfile a lost-luggage claim at the airport,detailing the luggage contents. Formost airlines, you must reportdelayed, damaged, or lost baggagewithin 4 hours of arrival. The airlinesare required to deliver luggage, oncefound, directly to your house or desti-nation free of charge.

H E A LT H & S A F E T Y 25

6 Health & SafetySTAYING HEALTHYAs of this writing, not a single case of SARS has been reported in Qubec,and the Toronto area in neighboringOntario has been declared free of thedisease by the World Health Organi-zation.

GENERAL AVAILAB IL ITY OFHEALTH CARECanada has a state-run health syste