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WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY

A PrimerBy Kent DuFault

3© 2014 PHOTZY.COM Get Your FREE Photography Tutorials at www.photzy.com

I had to chuckle to myself when I agreed to take on the task

of writing a Photzy.com Quick Guide on the subject of Wildlife

Photography. It’s kind of like asking for a Quick Guide on every

automobile in the world. Sure there are similarities- they all have

some means of propulsion and a way to steer them, but after

that, they’re as different as Neptune and Earth. And that IS the

nature of wildlife photography.

Let’s start out by quantifying a few things.

I believe that there are probably three types of individuals whom

might be reading this guide.

1. Photographers who already do wildlife photography, perhaps

have a hunting background, already know what a blind is, and

own a 300mm f/2.8 or longer telephoto lens. For this group,

I’m hopeful, but not confident, that you’ll find something

useful in here.

2. Photographers who live in the country; perhaps on a farm,

a ranch, or at a cabin.You see wildlife on a regular basis

because you live there, you somewhat know their habits and


Photographers who already do wildlife

photography, perhaps have a hunting background,

already know what a blind is, and own a 300mm f/2.8

or longer telephoto lens.

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you have a little knowledge and some access. You have some

photography skills, but aren’t getting the kind of images that

you believe that you should be getting… given the fact that

grazing deer are in your backyard. This is the group that I

believe will find this guide most helpful.

3. Photographers who rarely see wildlife- You take a great

vacation once or twice a year to national parks. You’ve seen

wildlife on occasion;you go to the zoo and you would like

to try and get a good photograph when a situation presents

itself. For this group I can give you some ideas on how to

prepare for the possibility that you might encounter wildlife

that is close enough to try and create a great photograph.


Photographers who rarely see wildlife- You

take a great vacation once or twice a year to national

parks.



Do YOU Know What This Is?

From here on out, I’m going to refer to the three groups of Wildlife

Photographers (stated above) as “Serious”, “Semi-serious”, and

“Hopeful”. The Serious group already knows what this is. For the

rest of you, it’s called a ‘blind’. It visually hides you and your

camera equipment from wildlife.

If you’re in the Semi-serious group, you may wish to invest in a

portable unit such as the one above, or build a permanent one on

your property.




Outside of specific knowledge on animal behavior, and an

excellent telephoto lens,a “blind” is a wildlife photographer’s

best friend. You can find out everything that you need to know

about blinds at local hunting, fishing, and camping stores. Also,

be aware that many national parks and regional preserves have

existing blinds that are available for public use. If you’re traveling

to a distant location, check in advance.

Now, going back to my automobile metaphor; trying to photograph

a beaver is completely different from trying to photograph a

moose. If you’re serious about wildlife photography you need to

study up just as much on animal behavioras you would on what

kind of lens you want to use.

How might you go about that?

1. If you’re traveling to a location and want to photograph

wildlife, find out what’s there.

2. Research what that species is doing during that particular

time of year- mating, birthing, raising young, migrating, etc.




3. Make a local contact and see if there is an expert that could

guide you.

4. If you’re visiting a park area, find out what the hours are.

Ask if you can get a permit to be inside the park during off-

hours. Most activity for wildlife occurs early in the morning,

at dusk, or at night.


If you’re serious about wildlife photography

you need to study up just as much on animal

behavioras you would on what kind of lens

you want to use.



This type of wildlife photograph requires knowledge, a blind, or

a very long lens.

Let’s talk a little bit about equipment. There are several

circumstances that are pretty much a given in wildlife photography-

1. Low light

2. Distance

3. Audible Noise

4. Potential Danger

Because of these circumstances you will want to-

- Use a camera that has low noise at high ISO settings.

- Use the longest telephoto / zoom lens that you can afford

(minimum 200mm).

- The lens should have a fast aperture (f/4.0 or faster preferred).

- Many cameras have a “quiet” setting to reduce noise. It will

also reduce noise if you lock the mirror up. Use the slower

motor drive setting rather than the fast one. Shoot in short

bursts.




- Invest in a GOOD camera remote shutter release.

This will allow you to set-up your gear (at a potential photo

opportunity) up close and then fire the camera from a

distance. This provides a level of safety, and it prevents the

animals from being spooked by your scent.

- Many types of wildlife are potentially dangerous to humans.

Keep your distance. Study animal behavior. Be particularly

careful during mating season and when babies are present.

Carry pepper spray.

Other equipment that will be extremely helpful includes-

1. A good, sturdy tripod with a ball head. If you’re using super-

telephoto lenses (300mm or longer), make sure the tripod

and head can support the weight.

2. A handheld spot meter. This will be helpful if you’re trying

to shoot a wider shot but you want your meter reading to

come from the animal.

3. A Photo Vest makes it much easier to carry gear in the field

while still keeping it accessible. The Backpack style camera

bag is an alternative. But, consider this, if you’re hiking

through the woods and you spot an animal, the less you move


Many types of wildlife are potentially

dangerous to humans. Keep your distance. Study animal

behavior. Be particularly careful during mating

season and when babies are present. Carry

pepper spray.



the more likely you’ll get a shot before it runs off.

How about filters? I don’t recommend using glass filters for

wildlife work (other than a protective UV filter). The reason is

because you don’t usually have time to fuss with them. I don’t

like using a polarizing filter because it reduces the exposure, and

low light is typically already an issue.

Whether you’re a Serious, Semi-serious, or Hopeful photographer,

you could run into this type of wildlife opportunity at any moment.

The key is to be ready and plan ahead. You’re likely to have less

than a minute to get your photograph.

How do you get yourself prepared?

• Keep the camera out and handy. Remove the lens cap and

install a lens shade. Keep the camera turned on. If you’re

unsure about lens choice, go with a zoom (something in the

200mm-400mm range preferably, or, 80mm–200mm as an

alternative).

• If lighting conditions are fairly stable and even,set your ISO

at 200-800. Use Evaluative/Matrix metering, Shutter Priority




Mode, and set shutter to 1/125 or faster (whatever it needs to

be for you to eliminate camera shake).

• If lighting conditions are constantly changing (such as the

sun going in and out of clouds),set your ISO based on the

low light readings. Use spot metering, Shutter Priority Mode,

and set shutter to 1/125 or faster (following the same advice

given above).

• Focus mode is a personal preference. I like using just the

center spot. Focus on the eyes. Re-Frame the image. If you’re

not comfortable doing that quickly, use Zone Matrix Focusing.

I also recommend setting the camera to single shot focusing.

You don’t want the camera to re-focus should the animal

shift their position slightly.

• Don’t wear bright clothing.

• Keep conversation, iPods, and other sources of noise off.


If lighting conditions are constantly

changing, set your ISO based on the low light

readings. Use spot metering, Shutter Priority Mode, and set shutter to

1/125 or faster



Should you use a flash unit?

There may be occasions where a flash unit will help with a

wildlife photograph. The problem is that most activity occurs in

the morning or in the evening in lower light. You are more likely,

than not, to get a shot that looks like this-

Glowing eyeballs aren’t attractive. I would leave the flash unit

at home and work with a higher ISO. The one exception is if

you’re working at night. Many wildlife photographers will set-up

a blind, put out bait, and use infrared firing devices for nighttime

shots.

If you attempt this, make sure to position your flash units off-

axis to the camera lens.



Even if an animal is at an angle to the camera, a flash positioned

at a close axis to the lens can still reflect off their retina.

In wildlife photography you basically have two options-

• You take up a position and wait for the wildlife to come to

you

• You go out looking for wildlife

In option one – knowledge and research are your friends. If you’re

going to be patient and wait for an animal to come to you,you

want to be sure that the odds arein your favor that one will come.

In option two – knowledge and research are equally important –

but there’s an additional factor that is just as important: weight.

Weight becomes a consideration when you’ll be hauling it up

a mountainside, across streams, or through miles of meadow

and prairies. You should consider purchasing a lightweight and

sturdy tripod. Carbon fiber tripods are excellent for this use. You

may be able to get by with a monopod instead of a tripod.




Although I prefer prime lenses, you may wish to consider using

a zoom lens. That way you can carry one or two, rather than a

number of lenses.

Several other tips for fieldwork include-

• Carry some plastic garbage bags to cover your gear should it

start to rain.

• Carry a cell phone, GPS, AND a handheld compass in case

you get lost.

• Let someone know where you’re going, how long you’ll be

there, and when you plan to return.


Many wildlife photographers will set-up a blind, put out bait, and

use infrared firing devices for nighttime shots. If you attempt this, make sure to position your flash units

off-axis to the camera lens.



Let’s enjoy some existing images and see what we can learn from

them!

I consider bird photography a separate specialty from wildlife. All

the principles discussed here apply with the following exceptions.

Birds tend to move during the day. Top quality bird photography

requires exceptionally long and fast lenses.

Getting a shot like this would be extremely rare without knowing

the animal’s habitat, behavior, and using a blind. The camera

meter was set to spot mode. You can tell this because there is

complete detail in the dark fur. Notice that no flash was used.




This wildlife portrait could have been created in the field or at

a zoo. An image of this quality requires top-notch equipment.

Did you notice that the depth-of-field extends from the tip of the

lions nose almost back to his ears?

This would have required a fairly small aperture and thus a high

ISO. A flash could have been used here- if the photographer

was close enough. However, the natural light is so much more

pleasing.




This photograph is a perfect example of what most of you are

probably looking to achieve. This could be your backyard. This

example isn’t bad;the deer is under-exposed, but not so severely

that it couldn’t be corrected in post-production.

This could have been shot with a shorter lens such as a 200mm.

This is a case where a slight pop from a flash might have improved

the image. However, you wouldn’t want the flash to override the

ambient light, or create glowing eyes, as this would have destroyed

the mood of the photograph.

If critters visit your area regularly,you could experiment with

setting up a blind, positioning a flash in different locations, and

firing your camera remotely.




This is a beautifully executed photograph that any photographer

from the Serious to the Hopeful could achieve.

What made this image work?

• Center Spot Metering – Anything else and the fawn would

have been too dark.

• Focus On The Eyes – The eyes, face, and ears of an animal

are the most interesting points. Always focus on the eyes!

• Sharpness – Make sure that your shutter speed is high

enough that you don’t get camera shake in your excitement,

or subject blur should the animal move.

I hope you’ve found some helpful tips in this Quick Guide, and

good luck in your wildlife adventures.




IMAGE CREDITS:Cover : VinothChandarPg 05 : U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service

Pg 06 : USFWS Pacific

Pg 06 : USFWS Pacific

Pg 08 : AER Wilmington DE

Pg 10 : unicoletti

Pg 12 : Blind Grasshopper

Pg 12 : Kent DuFault

Pg 13 : Jason Wharam

Pg 15 : blinkingidiot

Pg 15 : Bruce McKay

Pg 16 : Tambako

Pg 17 : Jan Tik

Pg 18 : VinothChandar

FONTS:Ovo

Montserrat

Rokkitt

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:Kent DuFault is a professional

photographer and author.

You can check out his work here;

Short Stories: http://www.amazon.

com/-/e/B006RASQUI

Website: http://www.

bellakentuky.com

Facebook: http://www.facebook.

com/bellakentukyauthor

Twitter: @bellakentuky

Blogging on publishing: http://

novelnook.wordpress.com/we-

love-photography-so-much


http://www.flickr.com/photos/vinothchandar/6794340940/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/usfwsmidwest/6343421875/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/usfwspacific/5694561430/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/usfwspacific/5693989477/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/elavamu/4487478745/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/25949441@N02/9501502998/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/unicoletti/4328079607/in/photostream/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/blindgrasshopper/2503063414/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/35449761@N04/13312196355/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jasonwharam/8226653785/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/45325473@N04/5004694149/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/brucemckay/5069335754/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/tambako/9701480455/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/jantik/308709862/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/vinothchandar/6794340940/

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http://www.google.com/fonts/specimen/Montserrat

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wildlife photography - amazon s3 · 2014 photy.com get your free photography tutorials at 5 do you...

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