whole grains for a new generation: light dishes, hearty meals, sweet treats, and sundry snacks for...

Publishedin2012byStewart,Tabori&ChangAnimprintofABRAMS

Copyright©2012LianaKrissoffPhotographscopyright©2012RinneAllen

Allrightsreserved.Noportionofthisbookmaybereproduced,storedinaretrievalsystem,ortransmittedinanyformorbyanymeans,mechanical,electronic,photocopying,recording,orotherwise,withoutwrittenpermissionfromthepublisher.

LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationData

Krissoff,Liana.Wholegrainsforanewgeneration:lightdishes,heartymeals,sweettreats,andsundrysnacksfortheeverydaycook/byLianaKrissoff.p.cm.Includesbibliographicalreferencesandindex.ISBN978-1-61769-001-31.Cooking(Cereals)2.Grain.I.Title.TX808.K752012641.6’31—dc23

2011053260

Editor:ElinorHuttonDesigner:MatthewEganProductionManager:TinaCameron

Stewart,Tabori&Changbooksareavailableatspecialdiscountswhenpurchasedinquantityforpremiumsandpromotionsaswellasfundraisingoreducationaluse.Specialeditionscanalsobecreatedtospecification.Fordetails,[email protected].

115West18thStreetNewYork,NY10011

www.abramsbooks.com

http://www.abramsbooks.com

ForThalia

INTRODUCTION

THEGRAINS

TheRecipes

1BREAKFASTANDBRUNCH

2APPETIZERSANDSMALLBITES

3SALADS

4MAINDISHES

5SIDEDISHES

6SWEETS,SNACKS,ANDBAKEDGOODS

7HOMEMADECONDIMENTSTOHAVEONHAND

APPENDIX

SOURCES

INDEXOFSEARCHTERMS

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

entionwholegrains,andmanypeople,evenifthey’vebeenhearingmoreandmore in recentyearsabout thewonderfulvarietyofgrainsavailable todayandtheirmanyhealthbenefits,stillimmediatelyenvisionearnestpilesofbrownriceandsteamedbroccoliservedupbydo-gooderparentsorradicalroommates.Dusty bulk bins in medicinal, humorless health food stores on the largelyunpopulated side of town.Wan slabs of tofu leaning against some sad, plainspeltberries.Inotherwords,foodthat’sadutytoeat,notapleasure.Iwanttobeoneofthemanynewvoiceshelpingtochangethatperception.

I’mcertainlynotthekindofpersonwhoeatsfoodjustbecauseit’sgoodforme or because I need to eat to survive. There’s far too much fun to be hadcookingandeatingtoletthateverydayopportunityforsubtlehappinessslipby.Mealtime inmyfamilyhasalwaysbeensomething to lookforward to, toplanfor, to enjoy. My parents didn’t often cook fancy meals for us kids, and werarelywent to restaurants,but theywere(andstillare)open to tryingdifferentfoods and unusual ingredients, confident that they could learn how to cookanything on the planet, and so they did.Much of it was decidedly not healthfood. Sure,mymomhad a carob period (short-lived, thank goodness—we allknewthatwasn’tchocolate),andexperimentedwithother“healthful”foodsthatdidn’tgaintractionwithmydadandmybrotherandme.Butforthemostpart,she cooked just plain delicious food for us, whether the dish grew out of aninterest in Georgia’s lost Cherokee culture (well, that oven-dried corn wasn’tdelicious so much asmemorable), a monthlong trek through Thailand with anotebook and a curious intellect (hence the coconut-milk pancakes and otherstreet-fooddelightswedevouredonherreturn),orchallengesissuedbyculinaryentities from Julia Child to Sunset magazine (French bread and the bestsopaipillasever,respectively).

Shealsocookedwholegrainsandservedthemwell.Imaybeoneofthefewchildrenofthe’80swhohasfondmemoriesofwheatberries:steamingbowlsofthe little grains, plump and chewy, sprinkled ever so judiciously with whitesugar and swimming in coldmilk, spooned up onwintermornings before theschoolbuscameinthedark.Crackedwheatporridgewithatouchofcinnamon—nothingelaborate—warmingmeandmybrotherafteranafternooniceskatingonthesnow-coveredlake.Tinywholewheatbunshalvedtosandwichshredded

venison shoulder and redpepper relish inmy lunchbag.So I supposewhen Istarted to learn to cookmorewhole grains a couple years ago, I came to theproject with an ingrained appreciation of how tasty they could be, but Iunderstand if othersneedmore convincingbefore theypull the triggeron thatfirstbagofquinoa,ormillet,orfarro.

Withafewexceptions,thefoodinthisbookisfarfromaustere.Spicesareused with abandon, as are fresh chiles and herbs, creamy Greek yogurt andhomemade crème fraîche (so easy to make it’s ridiculous), bursting ripevegetablesandsweet-tartfruits,succulentmeatsandoilyfish,andall-importantsalt.Thisisfoodmadebysomeonewhodrinkswineandcoffeejustabouteveryday, andwho butters her bread. It’s both homey everyday food you and yourfamilywillloveandfunbutsuper-easydinner-partyfood.It’sIndian,Mexican,Thai,andall-AmericanSouthern—mycookingisinspiredbyallthat’sflavorful,andIhopeitservesasinspirationtoyouinturn.

Nowlet’sgetthefascinatinggrainanatomyandtaxonomyandwhatnotoutofthewaysowecandiveintotherecipesasquicklyaspossible.

WHAT’SAGRAIN,ANYWAY,ANDWHATMAKESONEWHOLE?

Agrain is, quite simply, thewhole seed of a plant.True grains are those thatcomefromplants in thegrass family,Poaceae.They’realsoknownascereals:Wheat,corn,rice,oats,rye,barley,millet,sorghum,teff,triticale,andwildriceare all cereal crops, true grains. Seeds that do not come from a grass but thathaveculinaryusesandnutritionalprofilesthataresimilartothoseoftruegrainsare called pseudograins, and theyusually come frombroadleaf plant varieties;theseincludebuckwheat,quinoa,andamaranth.

Each grain or pseudograin, each seed, consists of three main parts, all ofwhich are found inside an inedible layer called the hull. Youmay remembercross-sectiondiagramsofgrainsfromsuchclassesasmiddle-schoolscience.Inall the illustrations, at the bottomof the seed near the stem and looking, veryappropriately, likeaneggyolk, is thegerm: the tinypartof the interiorof thegrainthatwhenfertilizedwillsprout(hencethetermgerminate)andgrowintoanewplant.Theendosperm,whichmakesup thebulkof the interiorand is thesource of energy for the germ, surrounds it. The bran is the outer protectivelayer.Eachpartofthegrainhasdifferentnutritionalcharacteristicsandcontent:

•GERMvitaminsBandE,essentialaminoacids,oils•ENDOSPERMmostlystarch(carbohydrate)•BRANfiber,Bvitamins

Whenagrainisprocessed,firstthehullorouterhuskisremoved.Atthispointit’safullyediblewholegrain.Ifprocessingcontinuesandthegermandthebranareremoved,thegrainisnolongerwhole—onlythestarchy,carbohydrate-richendosperm is left, and that’s what we’re eating when we eat refined grains.There are some good reasons for doing this: Refined grains, like white flour,degerminatedcornmeal,andwhiterice,keeplongerinstoragethanwholegrainsbecause they lack theoils that can turn rancidon the shelfover time.Refinedgrainsalso tend to taste lighterandmoredelicate than thosemadewithwholegrains.And,at least in thecaseofwhite riceandfinedegerminatedcornmeal,refinedgrainscookmorequicklythanwholegrains.

FITTINGWHOLEGRAINSINTOYOUREVERYDAYMEALS

Youcanseethatformostpeopleandmostmoderndiets,themostusefulpartsofthe grain would be the germ and bran. They’re incredibly nutritious, and yetmost of the grains produced for consumption today are ultra-processed toremovethem.While it’smyfeelingthat therearemanyapplicationsforwhichonly white flour or white rice will do—a perfect pizza crust, a holey loaf ofciabatta,afinewhitelayercake,atraditionalrisotto—Ithinkthatformostofusthose foods should, ideally, be considered special treats, and if it’spossible toreplacerefinedgrainswithwholegrainswithoutanyreductionindeliciousnessweshoulddoso.Luckily,wholegrainsofferavarietyoffun,crazytexturestoplaywithandatonofflavorineachbite,sothere’scertainlynoneedtoworryaboutgivingupanounceofcookingoreatingpleasure.Infact,Ifindthatwholegrainsaresomuchmoresatisfyingthanrefinedgrainsthatwhenthey’repartofmymealI’mlesslikelytoovereat.

The dishes in this book cover a lot of ground—there arewhole grains foreverymeal,afterall.ButIdon’twanttosuggestthateatingwholegrains(oranygrains)threetimesadayisaviabledietformeorforanyone.Wholegrains,astasty and as good for you as they are, shouldn’t replace nutrient-dense freshvegetables,andontheirowntheywon’tprovideasmuchproteinasmostpeopleneed.Basically,whenIcravegrains,whetherit’sahunkofbreadorabowlofcereal or a pie or something to go with kung pao chicken, I try to make thegrainswhole.WhenIbuycornmeal, Imakesure it says it’smadefromwholecornorhominy.WhenIbuydriedpasta,unlessit’saspecialoccasion,Ipickonemadewith at least somewholewheat. If I happen tobedesperate for a store-boughtcoldcereal(IwasaddictedtomixedNuttyNuggetsandToastedOatsforawhile), I know that one of themany varieties of unsweetened puffedwholegrainsisagoodoption.Thatsaid,it’smyhopethatthisbookwillhelpyougofarbeyond simple substitutions like this todiscovernewwaysof cookingandenjoyingtheenormousvarietyofinterestingandunusualgrainsthatarereadilyavailabletoday.

You’llprobablynoticethatmostofthedishes—thesalads,thesides,andthemain courses especially—are loadedwith fresh produce.Goodmeats and fishareusedmoderatelyand,Ithink,wiselyhereandinthefoodsmyfamilyandIcook.When they appear in these recipes, meats and fish take center stage: Ibelievethatwhenyouindulgeinsomethingspeciallikearosyraregrilledflank

steak,youshould trulyenjoyandappreciate it, and it shouldn’tbehidden, themeatusedonlyasa“flavoring”forgrainsandvegetables.Whenyouhavemeatorfish,itdeservestobethefocusofthemeal!

Thoughmanytraditionalfoodculturesreliedonwholegrainsforthebulkoftheirnutritionalintake,Ithinkanapproachinwhichwholegrainsarebalancedwithotherhealthfulingredientsismoreappropriateinamoderndiet.Soyou’llfind a posole rojo that’s reasonably authentic in its flavor profile—brick-redguajillo chiles, garlic, and onion forming the base—but one in which sharp-tasting, tendermustard greens arewilted into the hot stew right alongside thepork and whole hominy. You’ll find as much zucchini as couscous in thestuffingforwholerainbowtrout.Inaquinoadish,theroastedbutternutsquash,shallots, and sausage dominate. The salads are similarly balanced. You’regettingyourgrainshere,butalsoyourdarkleafygreens,nonstarchyvegetables,lesser cuts of meat, small sustainable fish and shellfish, your good cheeses,cream,andyogurt—lotsofyogurt.Usually,justacup’sworthofgraincancookupintothreeorfourservings,oftenmore.

PROTEINBENEFITSOFWHOLEGRAINS

Every person’s protein requirement is different, and some people feel betterwhentheyhavemoreorlessthanthefedsrecommend.Ifyoueatmeatandfishand you live in the developedworld, you probably don’t need to think aboutyourproteinintakeatall.Ifyouprefertolimitmeatandfishinyourdiet,insteadrelying mostly on other sources for your protein, these Centers for DiseaseControlnumbers (basedon findings andconclusionspublished in2005by theInstituteofMedicineof theNationalAcademies)maybehelpfulasabaselinerecommendeddailyallowance:

INDIVIDUALS AGE GRAMSChildren 1to8 13to19Children 9to13 34Girls 14to18 46Boys 14to18 52Women 19andolder 46Men 19andolder 56

Vegetarians and vegansmay be especially interested inwhole grains, not justbecause they’re tasty and fun to cook, but also because they can provide asurprising amount of protein, especially when compared to refined grains.Quinoaisthegrainhighestinproteinbyweightwhencooked(at4to5percent),andit’sacompleteprotein,meaningitcontainsallnineessentialaminoacids—theonesthehumanbodycan’tproduceonitsownandrequirestosurvive.It’soneofveryfewnonmeatornondairysourcesofcompleteprotein.Amaranthandbuckwheat, barley, millet, teff, and wild rice crowd close behind at 3 to 4percent.Anditwouldbeamistaketodiscountthemightyoat:one½-cup(80g)serving of raw rolled oats—plus 2 tablespoons sliced almonds to improve theprotein(thinkmuesli)—isactuallyconsiderablyhigherinproteinthanone1-cup(180 g) serving of cooked quinoa. Compare thesewith a serving of tofu or alargeegg(othercompleteproteins):

•½CUP (80 g) RAWROLLEDOATS (10 g protein)PLUS 2 TABLESPOONS SLICEDALMONDS(2.5gprotein):12.5gprotein

•1CUP(180g)COOKEDQUINOA:8gprotein

•¼BLOCKEXTRA-FIRMTOFU:8gprotein•1LARGEEGG:6gprotein

(Andjustfortheheckofit:Acanoftunahasabout14gprotein,andanice,big,juicysirloinsteakclocksinataround30gprotein—complete,ofcourse.)

[THETAKEAWAY?Asfarasgrain-basedproteinisconcerned,quinoaisgreat,andoats (especiallywithnutsor another sourceofnongrainprotein, suchasmilk)areawesome.]

BUYINGANDSTORINGWHOLEGRAINS

Ibuymostofmygrainsfrombulksources:thebinsatthelocalspecialtyfoodstore,asmallbakery-caféinthenexttownoverthatalsosellswholegrainsandflours at reasonable prices, and the big world market called Your DekalbFarmersMarket,whichhas justabouteverygrain-relatedproductIcouldwantinconvenientquantities.(Seesourcesonthispageformail-orderoptions.)Ialsopick up unusual rices when I become intrigued by them in Asian and Indiangrocerystores.Inotherwords,Ibuywholegrainsjustabouteverywherebutthesupermarket, where they’re usually overpriced and often stale due to lack ofturnover.

However,ifavoidingglutenisagoal—ifyou’reverysensitivetoitorhaveceliacdiseaseorarecookingforsomeonewhocan’teatanygluten—youshouldsteerclearofthebulkbins,wherethescoopusedforwheatflourbythepersonbefore you may be the one that’s now in the buckwheat groats bin,contaminatingitscontents.Fineparticlesfromonebineasilymaketheirwaytoanother through the air. If gluten is a concern, you should buy your grainsalready packaged, and the labels should specify that the contents are indeedgluten free to avoid any chance of contamination. Online retailers may beanother option, especially if you buy enough to make the shipping costsworthwhile;seethispageforalistofafewreputablesources.

Wholegrains,eventhoughtheycontainoils thatcanturnrancidovertime,don’tnecessarilyhavetobestoredintherefrigeratororfreezer.Istoremineinairtightcontainers(usuallyinlargeglasscanningjars)inadarkcupboardasfarfromtheheatoftheovenaspossible.It’sveryrarethatundertheseconditionsabatchofflourorwholegrainswillbecomeunusable.

One common annoyance in stored grains, however, is the group ofresourceful little pests called pantrymoths. If you bring grains home in bagsfrom the bulk bin, even if they’rewell sealed, it’s a good idea to transfer thegrainstoglasscontainersassoonaspossible.Theeasiestwaytopreventmothsfromtakingoveristofreezethegrainsforafewdaysbeforetransferringthemtothe cupboard, which will neutralize any of the (minuscule, unnoticeable,harmless)eggsthatmightalreadybeinthem.Youcanalsoscatterafewdriedbay leaves in the cupboard among the containers; the essential oils help repelpests.

[KEYWORDS:airtight,dark,andcool.]

MAKINGWHOLEGRAINSEASY

When I decided towrite this book, I flungmyself intowhat turned out to beweeks of experimenting with basic grain-cooking techniques. In the past, I’dalways simply put some grains in a potwith somewater and simmered themuntiltheyweretender.Surelyitmustbemorecomplicatedthanthat,Ithought.So I set aboutmeasuring, toasting, frying, salting, soaking, steaming, rinsing,adding grains to boiling water, adding boiling water to grains, and everycombination thereof. I discovered that, in large part, cooking grains involves,well, putting some grains in a potwith somewater and simmering themuntilthey’retender.Yes,someofthembenefitfromabriefpretoasting(millet,farro,crackedwheat);onegraindoesneedtobepresoakedforevencooking(Chineseblack rice); some are best added to already boiling water (cornmeal, polenta,grits); some ideally should be parboiled and then steamed the rest of theway(brown basmati and long-grain brown rices); and some of the firmer wholegrains(wheatberriesandthelike)shouldnotbesaltedtooearlyinthecookingprocessorcookedinacidicliquids,similartocookingdriedbeans.Butoverall,youcanrestassuredthatthisisprettymuchallyouneedtoknowaboutcookingwholegrains (though thereareanothercouplehundredpages in thisbookyoumight wish to peruse anyway). In short, don’t sweat the details. Grains areforgiving,andsoareyourfamilyandfriends.

TOSOAKORNOT?

If you’re the kindof personwhoplans ahead, youmightwish to presoak thefirmer, longer-cooking grains—wheat berries, farro, spelt berries, rye berries,oatgroats—sothey’llcookmorequicklythedayyouservethem.Soakincoolwateratroomtemperatureforabout8hoursorovernight,drain,thenproceedasusual,checkingfrequentlytoseeifthegrainsarecookedthrough:Soakedgrainswillcookintwo-thirdstohalfthetime.Youcanalsosoakoatsovernightintheamount of water called for in the recipes that follow; in the morning it’sbasicallyjustamatterofstickingthepotonthestoveandheatingthemup.

Somefolkshavefoundthatthewholegrainsthatarehighintheantinutrientphytic acid (such as wheat, rye, and oats) may be easier to digest and theirnutrientsmaybemorereadilyabsorbedifthey’vebeensoakedinwaterwithaculture of some sort added (a spoonful of yogurt, for example) for a certainperiod. If you do have trouble digesting whole grains, please look into theWestonA. Price Foundation’s recommendations for pretreating grains, as it’s

verypossibleyou’llbeabletoaddthesevaluablewholegrains(andthefloursmadefromthem)toyourdietifyoufollowitssuggestions.

MAKINGLAST-MINUTEWHOLEGRAINS

It’s true that many whole grains take longer to cook than their refinedcounterparts, but if you prepare a fewmeals’worth at one time, it’s a simplematter to pull them out when you need them for a quick last-minute meal—indeed,dumpingoutabagofprecookedwholegrains is fasterandeasier thancooking the refined version fresh for each meal. Many of the recipes in thisbook, even those inwhich thegrainappears inabrothy soupor stew,call forcooked grains, not because I’m a lazy recipe writer but because most grainsshouldbecookedatleastmostofthewayinplainunsaltedwaterwithnoaddedacidandbecauseit’ssoeasytocooktheminadvance.

The larger, firmerwhole grains—farro;wheat, rye, and spelt berries;wildrice;hulledbarley;wholehominy;oatandbuckwheatgroatsandkasha—canbecookedinlargebatches(doubleortripletheamountslistedintheGrainCookingCheat Sheet on this page), then divided among quart-size freezer bags andstacked flat in the freezer for long-term storage.They canbe thawed in just aminuteorso.

Thesmaller,moredelicategrains—suchasquinoaandmillet,bulgur,wholewheatcouscous,crackedwheat,andfreekeh—canbecookedahead,frozen,andthawed to add to soups and stews or to use in baked goods, but for salads orotherdisheswhere the integrityof the individualgrains ismore important, I’donlygoasfarascookingaheadandrefrigeratingforafewdays.Thesequick-cooking grains are best cooked in smaller quantities (like those listed on thecheatsheetonthispage)sotheystayfluffyanddon’tgetmushyorovercookedinthepot.

Brown and red rices can be parboiled in batches as large as youwish andthenrefrigeratedorfrozen,tobepulledoutandfinishedjustbeforeserving(seethis page). In fact, I think their texture benefits from this simple two-stagecookingprocess.

Porridge-cooked grains—oatmeal, amaranth, teff, and cornmeal—don’tfreezeverywell (or, rather, theydon’t thawquicklyenoughforme tomake itworth it).Refrigerated leftovers reheat easily, though, in a heavy covered panwithalittleextrawater.

TOREHEATREFRIGERATEDORFROZENGRAINS

Put the refrigeratedor frozengrains in adeep sieveor steamerbasket, set thesieveorbasketoverorinasaucepanwithaninchofboilingwaterinthebottom,putthepanlidonthesieveastightasit’llgo(justinsidetherimofthepan,ifpossible),andsteamuntilhot.Orputthegrainsandalittlewaterinasaucepan,cover,andplaceovermedium-highheat;cook,gentlystirringoccasionally,untilhot.Drainifnecessary.Oruseamicrowaveoven(Idon’thaveone,butIknowthey work): Put the grains in a microwave-safe bowl with a splash of water,coverlooselywithalidorventedplasticwraporwaxedpaper,andheatonfullpower until heated through or thawed, stopping every 30 to 60 seconds touncover and check them, stirring if necessary so they heat evenly and don’tovercook.

TOTHAWFROZENGRAINSWITHOUTHEATING

Dumpthefrozengrainsintoasieveorcolanderandrunitundercoldwaterforaminute,gentlybreakingupthegrainswithyourfingersoraspatula.Drainwell,thenreheatasaboveorusecold.Or,ifyouhavemoretime,submergethebagorcontainerofgrainsinabowlofcoldwatersetinthesinkunderabarelyrunningfaucet(thiscouldtake30minutesorsoforacouplecupsofgrain),orputitintherefrigeratorovernight.

SUBSTITUTINGGRAINS

Doit.Byallmeans,do it.Withsomesimpleadjustments incooking timeandmaybeliquidquantity(checktheGrain-CookingCheatSheetonthispage),youcansubstitutejustaboutanygraininanyrecipeforanyothersimilarlysizedandtexturedgrain, especially if they’re cooked separatelyand thencombinedwiththeother ingredients in adish.For example, aquinoa saladcanbemadewithanysimilar(delicateorsmall)grain—andviceversa;awheatberrydishcanbemadewithanylarger,firmergrain.

PORRIDGE-YGRAINS:

•Amaranth•Barleygrits(broken-uphulledbarley)•Cornmeal,grits,orpolenta•Oatmeal•Short-grainorsweetbrownrice,stirredwhilecooking•Teff

DELICATE,SMALLGRAINS:

•Bulgur•Crackedwheat•Freekeh•Millet•Quinoa•Wholewheatcouscous

FIRMER,LARGERGRAINS:

•Buckwheatgroats•Farro•Hulledorhull-lessbarley•Kamutberries•Kasha•Long-grainorbasmatibrownrice

•Oatgroats•Ryeberries•Speltberries•Triticaleberries•Wheatberries•Wholehominy•Wildrice

USEFULCOOKWAREFORTHEWHOLEGRAINKITCHEN

Mostoftherecipesinthisbookdon’trequireanyspecialequipmentortools,butthefollowingbasicvesselsandutensilswillbeuseful.Withafewexceptions(agoodnonsticksurfacefortheoccasionalinjera,acast-ironskilletforcornbread),Ipreferheavy tri-plystainless-steelsaucepans,pots,andsautépans.Theyheatevenly, the surface results in beautiful browning and nice crusts, and they’resupereasytocleanandmaintain.

HEAVY2-QUART(2-L)SAUCEPANWITHATIGHT-FITTINGLID:

Youcancookthelarger,firmerwholegrains,wheatberriesandthelike,inanykindofvesselthatyoucanboilwaterin.Quinoa,millet,andricearebestcookedin a heavy saucepanwith a tight-fitting lid, preferably in smaller batches andsmallerpans.Tocook1to1½cups(170to300g)ofanyofthese,a1½-to2-quart (2-L) saucepan is ideal—these grains like being a bit snug in the pot, Ithink.Forlargerbatches,a3-quart(2.8-L)saucepanisuseful,thoughyoucouldalsousea…

HEAVY6-QUART(5.7-L)DUTCHOVEN:

Icooksoupsandstews,boilpasta,braisemeats,andmakepaella-typedishesinmytrustytri-plystainless-steelDutchoven.Iliketheeasefactorofstainless,butthosefancyenameledcast-ironDutchovensarenicetoo.

HEAVYSAUTÉPANSWITHLIDS:

TherearethreeIusemostoften:asmall8-inch(20-cm)fortoastingspicesandnuts, frying eggs, and reheating single servings of leftovers; a larger 12-inch(30.5-cm)formostpastasauces,pan-searingfishorchicken,risottos,andsoon;and a deeper, steep-sided large sauté pan for big batches of one-pot dishes orstovetopbraises.

WELL-SEASONED12-INCH(30.5-CM)CAST-IRONSKILLETANDFLATGRIDDLE:

Forcornbread,pancakes, and theoccasional tomato-basedbraise soweallgetouriron.

NONSTICKGRIDDLEORSAUTÉPAN:

Forinjera.SometimesIusealargegriddleforpancakes.

SIEVEANDSTEAMERBASKET:

Find a deep fine-mesh sieve or two for draining and reheating grains. If youcookriceoften,andwanttousethetwo-stagemethodIdescribeonthispage,acollapsiblemetalsteamerbasketwillmakeiteasy.

HEATPROOFSILICONESPATULAS,AWOODENSPURTLE,ANDARUBBERSPATULA:

Forstirring,natch.(Seethispageformoreonthespurtle.)

SPICEMILL,MINIFOODPROCESSOR,ANDBLENDER:

For grinding spices fresh, making oat or quinoa flour, pureeing hummus andothercondimentsandsauces.Idon’thaveorneedafull-sizefoodprocessor,andyou won’t need any top-of-the-line high-powered processing or blendingequipmentfortheserecipes.

WHOLEGRAINCOOKINGFORVEGETARIANS,VEGANS,GLUTENFREES,ANDTHEEMPHATICALLYNOT

I’mnotvegetarian,vegan,orgluten free. Ieateverything (except favabeans),andsodo thepeopleI regularlycookfor (well,myhusband,Derek,won’teatlettuce, andourdaughter,Thalia,won’t eat onionsor fermented longbeans atthemoment).Butthereareenoughpeopleinmylifewhoprefernottoeatmeat,ordairy,orgluten-containinggrains that Iwanted theserecipes tobeuseful tothem or at least easily adaptable to their needs. Each recipe that conforms tothesedietaryrestrictionsindicatesthatnexttotheyieldforquickreference.

Ifyou’reverysensitivetoglutenorhaveceliacdisease,besuretoreadlabelsofanygrainsorprepared ingredients tobesure theyareexplicitlygluten free,and buy your grains in sealed packages from trusted sources rather than frombulkbins.Take special carewhenusingoats:Oats themselvesaregluten free,but they’re often grown or processed near enough to gluten-containing grainsthat they may contain trace amounts. Oats that are truly gluten free will belabeledassuch.

Youmightnotice that thereareveryfewdishes in thisbookthatusehigh-demandpremiumcutsofmeator larger, rarer fish species.Because theyoffermore flavor and because it’s a more responsible way to eat meat and fish, Iprefertouse,forexample,chickenthighsorwholechickenoverblandboneless,skinlessbreasts;beefchuckroastandporkshoulderoversteaksandloinchops;smallfishandshellfishovertunasteaks;wild-caughtsalmonoverfarmed.IloveagoodNewYorkstripsteakoraperfectlypan-searedpieceofhalibutasmuchasanyone,butoneofmygoalshereistoprovideexamplesofhowtouselessercutsandsmallerfishtomakesatisfying,deliciouseverydaymeals.

TheGrains

In this book, I focus on whole grains that are readily available in goodsupermarketsorwhole foodsstores.Somearemoreunusual thanothers,and Ihopethatevenifyou’refamiliarwitheverygrainstockingthebinsatyourlocalhealth food store, you’ll find something curious and intriguing in these pages.EvenasIwritethis,newgrains—or,rather,newlyrediscoveredancientgrains—are coming intomarkets all over the world, but since they’re not yet easy toobtain,Ithinkitwouldbeafrustratingteasetoincluderecipesusingthemhere.Forexample,fonio,atinygrainfromWestAfrica,maywellbecomeascommonasquinoa,butit’sstillsorarethatIhaven’tevenfoundagoodonlinesourceforit. (Perhaps, if it’s tasty, fonio will appear in my next book. For now, it’somitted.) Likewise, there are amultitude ofwhole grain flours on themarketthese days, andgiven the health benefits ofmoving away from refined flours,it’swellworthexploringeachandeveryoneofthem.Intherecipesinthisbook,however, I’ve limitedmyself to those I’m currentlymost familiarwith, that Ienjoyusing,andthatarereadilyavailableoffline.

Followingarebriefdescriptionsofeachofthegrainsfeaturedintherecipes—wheretheycomefrom,whattheylookandtastelike,howtocookwiththem.Gluten-free grains are noted so they will be easy for the gluten-concerned toreference.Against theadviceofmyeditor,I’vealsolistedthebotanicalnamesof the grains—not to be pedantic but because I myself found knowing thosenames,andthuswhereeachgrainfitintotheorderoftheuniverseofplants,tobe extremely helpful in understanding what exactly a grain is and how thedifferentgrainsarerelatedtootherplants.Aftertheintroductiontoeachgrain,Idescribe how to cook it in themost basicway.You’ll notice that the startingquantities and yields vary a bit from grain to grain; this is because I imagineyou’llwant to cook somegrains in smaller quantities (like a single servingofrolledoatsforbreakfast)thanothers(likewheatberriesintendedforthefreezerandlateruse).Porridgey,soft-cookedgrainscanbecookedinanyquantitybutaren’t great options for freezing; fluffy, pilaf-style grains are best cooked insmallquantities(1or2cups/225or455g)so theydon’tbecomemushy,butcan be frozen and thawed with reasonable success; large, firm grains can becookedinindustrialsizequantitiesandfrozenandthawedeasily.

AMARANTH

Amaranthus,fam.Amaranthaceaeglutenfree

Amaranth

NativetotheAmericas,thepseudograinamaranthwasfirstdomesticatedfivetoseven thousand years ago, probably in centralMexico, and to theAztecs andIncas, itwas as important a crop asmaize and legumes. It’s believed that theblood-redseedheadsofamaranthplayedanimportantroleinMexicanreligiousrituals,andwhentheSpanisharrivedinthe1500s,theysostronglydiscouragedtheproductionofamaranth(“discouraged”isputtingitmildly;theyburnedacresof amaranth to theground) that thegrain eventually fell intoobscurityuntil itwas rediscoveredbyU.S.growers andhealth-food types in the1970s. It’snothardtounderstandwhyamaranthwassoimportanttopre-Columbianpeoplesaswell as to those bell-bottomed vegetarians: Amaranth is a well-balancedcompleteprotein that’shigh in lysine (anaminoaciduncommon ingrains); isrelatively drought-, pest-, and disease-resistant; and can be cultivated under avarietyofconditions.

Assumingyou’renotgoingtomixitwithbloodtomakefigurinestooffertoyour pagan gods,what can you dowith thiswondrous pseudograin, andwhatdoes it taste like? To be honest, amaranth is a relative newcomer tomy ownkitchen,andatfirstitwasasomewhatchallengingone.Theindividualseedsareverytinyandpalebrown,andwhencookedinwater,porridgestyle, theysticktogetherinamassoflittlespheresthataretenderbutsominusculeit’shardtoknow if you’ve even crushed thembetween your teeth or not. They don’t, nomatterwhat I’ve tried,cook intoa fluffypilaf—it’s justnotwhat theydo,andthere’snousetryingtomakethemintosomethinglikeapilaf.Their texture is

actually very similar to that of beluga caviar, and in fact at one point in myexperiments, I dusted a bowlful of well-salted soft-cooked amaranth withpowderedtoastednoriseaweed,closedmyeyes,andalmosttastedthatdelightfulroe.Isuspecttherearen’tmanyveganswhomisscaviarsomuchthatthey’dgoto the trouble of trying to produce a substitute, but if you’re out there, I havethesewordsforyou:Startchillingthevodka.

I’m no supertaster, but I’ve read a lot of descriptions of the flavor ofamaranth thatdon’tseemveryaccurate.Tome,soft-cookedamaranth tastes—andsmells—grassyandherbal.Itdoesn’ttasteorsmelllikeanyothergrain,butrathermore likeafreshgreenvegetable,andonceIcametounderstand that, Ilearned to appreciate it on its own terms. Sure, it can be served as a sort of“polenta,” but instead of (or in addition to) stirring in grated Parmesan, I’dsuggestpairingitwithaningredientthathighlightsthegreenflavor,likebarelywiltedspinach.Ialsofindamaranthtoworkexceptionallywellinbrothysoups,fillingthemoutandprovidingawelcomeheartytexturewithoutweighingthemdown the way that a nuttier or “grainier” grain could. The tomatillo andamaranthsoupwithchickenonthispagewouldbeagoodjumping-offpointforothersimilardisheswithtangy,vegetalelements—tomato,citrus,unripeplums,greenmango.

Theotherwaytogetyouramaranthfixis topopit:Tossedintoaveryhotdrypan,thelittleseedsimmediatelypuffandturnbrightwhitelikepopcornandtakeonanentirelydifferentflavor thatIcanonlydescribeas toasty,browned,warm.Keepajarofpoppedamaranthinthecupboardandsprinklethepuffsonsaladsorbreakfastcereal,yogurt,oricecream.OrpopawholelotofamaranthtomaketheMexicansweetscalledalegrías(thispage),or—andthisisprobablymy favorite use of amaranth yet—fold popped amaranth into melted darkchocolatetomakecrisp,delicate,toasty-tastingchocolates(thispage).

TOSOFT-COOKAMARANTH

Grain 1cup(200g) 2cups(330g)

Water 3cups(720ml) 6cups(1.4L)

Salt Pinch ¼teaspoon

Pansize 2-quart(2-L) 3-quart(2.8-L)

Yield 2cups(330g) 4cups(660g)

In a heavy saucepan over medium-high heat, toast the amaranth, stirringfrequently,untilashadedarkerand justbeginning tocrackle.Stir in thewaterand salt and bring to a boil, stirring, then lower the heat and simmer briskly,stirringoccasionally,untilthegrainsaretenderandtranslucentandthemixtureisthick,about20minutes.(Themixturewon’tstarttothickenuntilthelastfewminutes.)Ifnotusingrightaway,transfertoanairtightcontainerandrefrigerate.Amaranthdoesn’tfreezeespeciallywell.Toreheat,seethispage.

TOPOPAMARANTH

Use a large, heavy, stainless-steel sauté pan or wide saucepan that has a lid(preferablyaglasslidsoyoucanseewhat’sgoingoninside).Heatthepanoverhighheat,onaburnerthatfullycoversthebottomofthepan,forseveralminutes—itneedstobeblisteringlyhot.Tossafewdropsofwaterintothepan;iftheydon’t evaporate right awaybut ratherdancecrazily around thepan for severalsecondsfirst,thepanistherighttemperature.Add1to2tablespoonsamaranthtothepan,quicklyputthelidon,andshakethepanbackandforthovertheheat.The amaranth should start to pop within a couple seconds. Lift the lid ifnecessary after about 5 seconds and check to see if the grains have puffed upinto little white balls. If they have, and you seemanymore white puffs thanbrowngrains,removefromtheheatandimmediatelypourthemoutontoaplatetocool.Returnthepantotheheat,makesureit’sgoodandhot,andrepeatwithmoreamaranth.

Somebatches,itmustbesaid,willburnbeforethegrainspop.Iftheydon’tstartpoppingalmostassoonastheyhitthehotpan,dumpthemoutontoaplate(beforetheyburn)andtrypoppingthatbatchagainafterthegrainshavecooled.On a good day,¼ cup (56 g) raw amaranth yields over 1 cup (60 g) poppedamaranth. Store popped amaranth in an airtight container at room temperatureforupto1month.

BARLEY

Hordeumvulgare,fam.Poaceaecontainsgluten

Purplebarley/Hulledbarley

Cheapandversatile,barleyistrulyanancientgrain.Firstcultivatedatleasttenthousand years ago inAfrica and southeastAsia and used as currency by theSumerians,itcanbegrownjustaboutanywhere,inextremelyhotandextremelycoldclimates.TodayintheUnitedStates,morethanhalfofthebarleygrownisused for animal feed, and almost half is used tomake barleymalt syrup andsweeteners (sproutedbarley is high inmaltose) andbeer; a paltry2percent isusedasagrainforhumanconsumption.Mostofthatiseithergroundforflouror“pearled,”meaningthatnotjustthehullbutalsomostofthebranisremovedtomake it slightly quicker cooking. Pearl barley, as it’s called, is fine anddelicious,butit’snotreallyawholegrain.Intheserecipes,Iusewhat’susuallylabeled“hulled”barley:Thegrainshavebeenstrippedoftheirhullsbutmostofthe bran remains.Not all of the bran is left on the grain because the abrasionnecessarytoremovethebarley’sespeciallystubbornhullresultsinsomelossofbranaswell.Therearenewvarietiesof“hull-less”barley,which,as thenameimplies,donotneed tobehulledand so retainallof thebran,but they’renotnearlyaswidelyavailableasthehulledbarley.Barleyisalsocommonlysoldasflakes, which are simply rolled-flat barley grains, and barley grits, which aretoastedandgroundgrains;however,thesetwoprocessedformsofthegraincanbemadewitheitherhulledorpearlbarley,andit’softendifficult to tellwhichhasbeenused,soIstickwiththehulledorhull-lessvariety.

Cookedwhole barley is absorbent and has amild and pleasant flavor thatadaptsverywelltowhateverotheringredientsyoucookwithit,anditworksin

saladsaswellasitdoesinliquidysoupslikemushroom-barleysoup.Itreleasesits starch into the cooking liquid reluctantly, but is still a good option for arisotto-likedishthat’smuchmorehealthfulthanthewhitericeversion.

Barley’smainclaimtofameintheageofvitamin-fortifiedfloursandriceisits fiber content. Just a cup (160 g) of cooked barley provides over 13 g ofdietaryfiber,whichisabouthalfoftheRDA,andbarley’sinsolublefiber,asitferments in the colon, produces a certain acid that may help lower bloodcholesterol. It’s also a lower-glycemic food, meaning that for most people, itdoesnotresultinablood-sugarspike.

TOCOOKHULLEDORHULL-LESSBARLEY



Salt ¼teaspoon ½teaspoon


Yield 2½ to 3 cups (400 to480g) 5cups(800g)

Inaheavysaucepan,combinethebarley,water,andsalt.Cover,bringtoaboil,thenlowertheheatandsimmeruntilthebarleyistenderandnotraceofbrightwhiteisvisibleatthecenterwhenagrainiscutinhalf,about40minutes.Drainwell. If not using right away, rinse the grains under coldwater to cool, drainwell, then transfer to an airtight container and refrigerate or freeze.To reheat,seethispage.

BUCKWHEAT

FagopyrumesculentumMoench,fam.Polygonaceae|glutenfree

Buckwheatkasha/Buckwheatgroats

Buckwheatisagluten-freepseudograinfromtheknotweedfamilyofdicots—thesame family as tangy rhubarb and tangy garden sorrel—and thus, despite thename,isnotrelatedtowheatatall.TheplantisnativetosouthernChinaandwaslikelyfirstdomesticatedinChinainthesecondorfirstcenturyB.C.E;ithasbeencultivatedextensivelyinRussia(theplantdoeswellinthecold)onlysincethefifteenth century.Themultisided, funny-looking, almost-pyramidal seedof theplantiscontainedinahardshellorhullthat’sremovedinprocessing.Thepale,green-brown hulled seeds are called buckwheat groats, and the dark-brownroastedseedsarecalledkasha.

Buckwheatisacompleteprotein,containingalloftheessentialaminoacids—includingtheelusivelysine,whichisnotcommonlyfoundingrains—andishighinblood-improvingmagnesium.It’salsobeenprovenusefulincontrollingbloodsugarlevels,duepartlytoitshighdietaryfibercontent.

Despiteallthatgoodnews,buckwheatgroatsandkashawereatoughsellforme,anacquiredtaste.ButIdidacquireit.Thedistinctiveflavorofthegrains—earthy, nutty, dark—can easily wipe out more delicate ingredients like freshvegetablesandherbs,andsoworkbestwithotherdeep,richflavors.Pairingthegroatswithsmokyflavors,as in thesmokedfishcakeson thispage,orsettingthe richness off with a brightly dressed salad of sharp greens, say, lets themshine in a way that they don’t in the common kasha varnishkes preparation,where kasha is tossed with farfalle pasta, mushrooms, and little else tocounterbalanceitsearthiness.

Cookingbuckwheatgroatsorkashainsimmeringwaterlikeanyothergraintends to yield grains that stick together and can’t easily be tossed with otheringredients(thoughit’sperfectlyfineifyou’reshapingthemintogriddlecakesorthelike).Thebestsolutionisoddyettraditional:Beatawholeeggoraneggwhite and stir in the raw groats to coat them well, cook the groats in a drysaucepanuntilthegrainsseparateandappeardry,thenaddwaterandcontinuetocookuntil tender.Thecoating(butteroroilcanbeusedinsteadof theeggbuttheydon’tcoat thebuckwheatquiteaswell)keeps thegrainspleasantly fluffyandseparate.

BUCKWHEATFLOUR

Buckwheatflour,whichisalwayswholegrainevenifthelabeldoesn’tspecifyso, is an excellent option for those who may not want to bother with wholegroatsbutwish to reap their benefits.Buckwheat flour is a form inwhich thegrain’searthinessistamerandpossiblymorewelcomeanyway—itisabsolutelydelightful,andagreatadditiontoquickbreadrecipes.Iliketoaddafewcuppedhandfuls of it towhatever bread dough I’m kneading at themoment for extraflavor and richness—don’t add too much of this flour, though, or the doughwon’tbestretchyenoughtoriseproperly.(Sinceitdoesn’tcontaingluten,useitjudiciously in yeasted breads, with plenty of gluten-containing flour such aswheat.)All-buckwheatcrêpesandpancakesaresubtleenoughtoserveasbasesforsweetdishes.Sobanoodlesmadeentirelywithbuckwheatflourarerare,buteven those with wheat flour as the main ingredient and some buckwheat aremorehealthfulthanall-wheatnoodles.

AsmuchasI’velearnedaboutwholegrains, it’sstillamysterytomewhybuckwheatflour,eventhoughit’smadefromwholebuckwheatgroats,resultsincrêpes,pancakes,andbreadsthatdonotenduptastingremotelylikethecookedgroatsdo.Soevenifyou’vebeenscarredbyapoorlymadekashavarnishkesatsomepointinyourlife,donotruleoutusingbuckwheatflour.

TOCOOKBUCKWHEATGROATSORKASHA(ROASTEDBUCKWHEAT)


Egg,butteroroil 1 largeeggwhite,or1tablespoonbutteroroil

1 whole large egg, or 2tablespoonsbutteroroil

Water 1½cups(360ml) 3cups(720ml)

Salt(opt.) ¼teaspoon ½teaspoon


Yield 3½cups(600g) 7cups(1.2kg)

Ifusingegg,beat theegg inabowlandadd thebuckwheat; toss tocoatwell.Heat aheavy saucepanovermediumheat, thenadd the egg-coatedbuckwheatand cook, stirring constantly, until the grains are dry and no longer clumpingtogether, about 3minutes.Add thewater and salt.Cover, bring to a boil overhighheat, then lower the heat and simmeruntil thewater is absorbed and thebuckwheat is tender, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and let stand,covered,for5minutes.

Ifusingbutteroroil,heatthebutteroroilinaheavysaucepanovermediumheat,thenaddthebuckwheatandcook,stirringconstantly,untilfragrant,about3minutes.Addthewaterandsalt.Cover,bringtoaboiloverhighheat,thenlowerthe heat and simmer until thewater is absorbed and the buckwheat is tender,about10minutes.Removefromtheheatandletstand,covered,for5minutes.

Ifnotusing rightaway, spreadona largeplate tocool, then transfer toanairtightcontainerandrefrigerateorfreeze.Toreheat,seethispage.

CORN

Zeamays,fam.Poaceaeglutenfree

Popcorn/Cornmeal

Itappearsfromrecentgeneticresearchandarcheologicalexcavationsthatcorn,ormaize, isadescendantofawildgrasscalledteosinte,whichisnativetotheRio Balsas river valley in Mexico; corn was first domesticated in the regionsometimearound8700B.C.E.Andaseveryschoolchildknows(orusedtoknow),Columbus took thepopularmaizefromtheNewWorldback toEurope,and itspreadfromthere,quicklybecomingthemost-cultivatedgraincropintheworld,asitwasbothplentifulandcheap.

But problems arose with corn when grown and consumed in its newlocations.InLatinAmerica,cornkernelswerecommonlysoakedinanalkalinelime solution in a process called nixtamalization, probably first developedaround1500B.C.E.; thisremovedsomeofthetoughouterlayerssoitwouldbeeasiertogrindintoapastetomaketheregion’sstaples:tortillas,tamales,andsoon.It’sunclearwhetheritwasknownthenthatnixtamalizationbringswithitabeneficial side effect—the release of niacin and amino acids in the grain thatwould otherwise be unavailable to the body—but either way, when corn wasintroduced to Europe, the concept of nixtamalization was unfortunately leftbehind.Inaddition,theCentralandSouthAmericansknewtocombinecorn,anincomplete protein, with local squash and legumes, which made up for itsnutritional shortcomings (the Three Sisters, as they were called, also havecomplementary growing patterns and sowere planted together), but that habitdidn’tmakethetripeither.Ascorn’spopularityincreasedanditsusespread,sodidahorribleandoftendeadlyconditioncalledpellagra,whichwenowknowis

aresultofniacindeficiency.Asrecentlyastheearlytwentiethcentury,pellagracould still be found among patients inmental institutions in theUnited States(particularly in the South) who were fed diets consisting mainly of cornproducts, and it slowlydawnedon scientists anddoctors studying theproblemthatdietratherthancontagionmightbetoblame.

Corn, nixtamalized or not, has a reputation as a relatively poor nutritionsource, and when compared to other whole grains, the rap is not entirelyundeserved.It’satthebottomoftheprotein-contentlist,alongwithrice,buthashighlevelsofvitaminsAandB1(thiamin).It’salsohighinfiber,ofcourse,andisaprettydecentsourceofcalciumforagrain,especiallywhennixtamalized.

Soiscornalwayswholegrain?Thoughnixtamalizationremovesmuchofthegrain’sbran,enoughoftheouterlayerremains—andthenutritionalbenefitsofthe process are great enough—that the USDA and theWhole Grains Councilconsiderhominy,knownasposole in theSouthwest, and itsderivatives (masaharinafortamalesandtortillas,forexample)tobewholegrainproducts.

Cornmeal is trickier. A large percentage of the cornmeal sold insupermarkets has been degerminated (it should say so on the package),whichmeans the germ of the grain has been removed. This improves shelf life, butrenders the cornmeal nutritionally inferior. Some cornmeal is actually labeled“whole corn” or “whole grain”; however, when it is not labeled as such,sometimesitisactuallymadefromwholecorn,especiallyifitis“stoneground,”butit’shardtotellwithoutseeingthemealitself.Ifyouseelotsofdarkspecks,it’sprobablywholegraincornmeal;otherwiseit’slikelynot.

Grits and polenta are similarly confusing, as the grinds differ dramaticallyfrombrandtobrand,andoftenthelabelingisunhelpfulorunclearaboutwhetherthe product was made from whole corn or degerminated corn. In general,though,finecornmealwilllookandfeellikeverycoarseflour(lookforbrownspeckstodeterminewhetherit’swholegrain);“polenta”isamediumgrind(andveryoftenisnotwholegrain);“old-fashionedgrits,”“hominygrits,”“speckledgrits,” and “corn grits” are all fairly coarse (and are usually whole grain). Ifyou’re lucky, you may also come across roasted cornmeal, a hyper-regionalPennsylvania Dutch product, which is whole grain. Roasting the whole cornbeforegrinding it notonly imparts adeep, toasty flavorbut also improves thecornmeal’sshelflifewithouttheneedtoremovethegerm.

UncookedandcannedcookedwholehominycanbefoundwiththeMexicanfoods in better supermarkets, and of course in Mexican grocery stores. Theuncookedgrains,soldinbagslikedriedbeans,looklikesmall(⅛-inch/3mm),off-white or pale yellow, irregularly shaped chunks of gravel; on closer

inspection, you’ll be able to recognize their corn-kernel provenance. Cannedhominy can be white or yellow, and while some people express strongpreferencesforoneortheother,Imyselfcan’tdetectanydifferencewhatsoeverbetweenthembeyondthecolor.

TOSOFT-COOKCORNMEAL,POLENTA,ORGRITS

Grain 1cup(160g) 1½cups(240g)


Salt ½teaspoon 1teaspoon


Yield 4cups(960g) 6cups(1.4kg)

Inaheavysaucepan,combinethewaterandsalt.Bringtoaboil,thengraduallywhisk in thecornmeal.Lower theheat and simmer (it shouldplopandbubblejust once every few seconds),whisking frequently and stirringwith a siliconespatulatopreventitfromstickingtothepan,untilthecornmealisthickbutstillpourableandtheindividualgranulesaretender,about35minutesforcoarse,15minutes formedium,or5 to10minutes for finecornmeal;addanother½cup(120 ml) water if the mixture becomes thick before the granules are tender.Servehot,orletcoolandrefrigerateinanairtightcontainer.

TO REHEAT: Scrape it into a saucepan and add a little water. Heat overmedium heat, stirring to incorporate thewater and prevent the cornmeal fromsticking,untilsmoothandhot.

TOPREPAREFIRMCORNMEAL,POLENTA,ORGRITS

Preparethecornmeal,polenta,orgritsusingthesoft-cookedmethodabove,thenpour into an airtight container or in a ½-inch-thick (12-mm-thick) layer in alightlyoiledpan,letcool,thencoverandchillintherefrigeratoruntilfirm.A9-inch(23-cm)squarepanisjustrightfor4cups(960g)ofcookedcornmeal.

Cutthefirmcornmealintosquares,rectangles,theEmpireStateBuilding,orwhatevershapeyouwant.Inawell-seasonedornonstickskillet,heatsomeoliveoil, butter, lard, or bacon grease over medium-high heat. Add the cornmealshapesinonelayerandcookwithoutdisturbingthemuntilwellbrownedonthebottom,5to6minutes.Flipandbrowntheotherside.Tominimizespattering,patthebottomofeachshapedrywithapapertowelbeforeaddingittothepan.

Alternatively,heatacharcoalgrill.Lightlybrushthecornmealshapesoneithersidewith oil and grill untilwellmarked. Pan-fried or grilled cornmeal shapescanbemadeadayinadvance,covered,andrefrigerated.

TOREHEAT:Placeshapesonawireracksetonabakingsheetandreheatina350°F(175°C)ovenforabout15minutes.

TOCOOKWHOLEHOMINYORPOSOLE



Salt(opt.) ½teaspoon 1teaspoon


Yield 2½cups(600g) 5cups(1.2kg)

Inaheavysaucepan,combinethehominy,water,andsalt.Cover,bringtoaboil,thenlowertheheatandsimmeruntilthehominyistenderandnotraceofbrightwhiteisvisibleatthecenterwhenagrainiscutinhalf,about40minutes.Drainwell. If not using right away, rinse under coldwater to cool, drainwell, thentransfertoanairtightcontainerandrefrigerateorfreeze.Toreheat,seethispage.

MILLET

Pennisetumglaucum,fam.Poaceaeglutenfree

Millet/Puffedmillet

Yes,thepaletansphericalgrainthatbulksoutbirdseedismillet—anddelicious,nutritiousbirdseeditis,too.MostofthecropgrownintheUnitedStatesisusedforanimalfeed,butasitspopularityheregrows,thatmaychange.Pearlmilletisthe most common variety grown for food in the United States, but don’t befooled by its name into thinking it’s been “pearled,” or had its nutritientsprocessed out; it is whole. This gluten-free true grain has been a staple forvegetarianandhealth-consciouscooksfordecades,but it reallydoesdeserveawideraudience.Millet ismorecommonintheIndiansubcontinentthanit is intheWest,andforcenturies,beforericerosetodominance,itwasthestaplegrainofChina.Inthenorthernregions,itisstillusedmuchasriceisintherestofthecountry;itisusuallycookedtoasoftgruelsimilartorice-basedcongeeorjookratherthanafluffypilaf.Itisalsoavailablepuffed,soldinthecerealaisleofthegrocery store. Millet, which by some estimates serves as the main source ofnutrition for a third of the world’s population, contains several importantnutrients,includingmagnesium,phosphorous,andvitaminB3(niacin).

Thegrainispracticallyfoolproof,cookingupintoafluffypilaf-typetexturewithverylittleeffort.Toastingtherawgrains,eitherinadrypanorinalittlefat,deepensandintensifiesmillet’sotherwisefairlymildflavor,buthasnoeffectonthe cooked millet’s finished texture; it’s up to you whether you toast or not.Millettastesalotlikecorntomeandworksverywellinspicy,highlyseasoned,cumin-scented dishes—Mexican-and Indian-style ones especially. It’s also

perfectforthickeningliquidystewsanddals,andcanalsobemoldedintolittletimbalesforfussy-fancyservingpresentationsormixedwithalittleeggtobinditintopattiesforpan-frying.

MILLETFLOUR

Mild, easygoing millet flour (aka bajra flour) is used extensively in India,particularlywithfreshfenugreek leaves(methi) in theGujaratisnackpancakescalleddhebra,andinparathas,rotis,dosas,andotherflatbreads,whereit’softencombinedwithwheatflour.

TOCOOKMILLET


Water 2cups(480ml) 4cups(960ml)




Inaheavysaucepanovermedium-highheat,toastthemillet,stirringconstantly,untilfragrant,3to4minutes.Addthewaterandsalt,cover,bringtoaboil,thenlowertheheatandsimmeruntilthemilletistenderandtheliquidisabsorbed,20to 25 minutes. If not using right away, spread on a large plate to cool, thentransfertoanairtightcontainerandrefrigerateorfreeze.Toreheat,seethispage.

OATS

Avenasativa,fam.Poaceaesometimesglutenfree

Oatgroats/Steel-cutoats

Scottish(pinhead)oats/Rolledoats

Worldpeaceandprosperity!Lionsandlambs,dogsandcats, leftandright,alllie down together and cuddle! Single-payer health care for everyone! There’sreally nothing a well-cooked pot of the great Avena sativa isn’t capable ofachieving forhumankind ifonlywe’d let it—well,maybenotuniversalhealthcare…thoughwemightneeditlessifweallatemoreoats.

I suppose Ido tend togooverboarddeclaringmy loveofoats,buteven ifthey weren’t arguably one of the most healthful foods on the planet (provenbeyond a doubt to decrease the risk of heart disease, for example), easy toprepare, easy to shop for (oat products are alwayswholegrain), I’d still be intheirthrallsimplybecausethey’redeliciousandeasilychangedupfrombowltobowl.Youcandoprettymuchanythingwithwell-cookedoats.

ButIwasn’talwaysthisway:LikemanyAmericanswhogrewuponquick-cooking oatmeal or even, God forbid, the flavored instant stuff in the single-serving envelopes (which I actually kinda liked as a kid), I had no ideawhatpleasuresawaitedmeintheformofchewysteel-cutoats(whichare,asthenamesuggests, whole oat groats that have been cut into pieces with a steel blade),creamyScottishorpinheadoats(whicharecutoatsthathavebeengroundtoafiner consistency and contain more floury bits), and hearty “old-fashioned”rolled oats (which are oat groats that have been briefly steamed and thenflattenedbetweenmetalrollerstodifferentdegreesofthinness).There’salong-livedthreadonChowhoundaskingfolkswhatpopularfoodstheycan’tseemtobring themselves toappreciate, andoatmealhascomeupmore times than I’mcomfortable reporting. Most detractors admit to the grain’s mildly sweet andpleasant flavor but blame its consistency for their unreasonably hystericalrevulsion. Cooking oatmeal isn’t rocket science, but too often, I think, oats,

whether rolled or steel-cut, are simply overcooked, in too much liquid. Theporridgeshouldbecreamyand thick,but the individualpiecesofgrainshouldremaintexturallydistinct,evenalittlechewy.Tryoatsagain,cookingthemless—arevelationmaybeintheoffingforyouaswell.

Theotherissuepeopleseemtohavewithoatmealisthatbowlafterbowlofthestuff,dayafterday,cangetoldquick.However,oatsareendlesslyadaptableto all sorts of dishes and flavor combinations, and it is a shame not to takeadvantageofthegrain’sversatility.ThelistofcrazyideasIofferhereisastart.

In addition to fantastic rolled and cut oats,whole oat grains, unfortunatelycalledoatgroats,shouldnotbeneglected.Theycookupmorequicklythanyoumight expect—in just about 20 minutes—and are a pleasant, slightly sweet,easygoinggraintouseinsalads,inpilafswithbeansorlentils,inhomeystews,orasacomfortingplainsidedish.

Oats themselves are gluten free, but it’s important to note that most aregrownorprocessedinsuchcloseproximitytogluten-containinggrainsthattheymaycontainorbe contaminatedwithgluten. If youhave celiacdiseaseor areverysensitivetogluten,stayawayfromthebulkbinsandcheckthepackage’slabeltobesureyouroatsareglutenfree.

OATFLOUR

Very fine, lovely oat flour is light and delicate and a little sweet, perfect fortendercookiesandcakes,orfordredgingfoodtobepan-friedorbaked,orformixing into granola or fruit-crisp toppings. It is always whole grain and isavailableinmanygrocerystoresoreasilymadeathome—thoughmyoatflournevergetsquiteasfluffyasstore-bought.Simplygrindrolledoats(thethinnerthebetter)toapowderinaspicemillorfoodprocessor.Ifyoulike,youcanthensiftittoremovelargerbits;Idon’tbother.

TOCOOKOATGROATS

Grain 1cup(180g)

Water 3cups(720ml)

Salt(opt.) ¼teaspoon

Pansize 2-quart(2-L)

Yield 2½cups(560g)

Inaheavysaucepan,combinetheoatgroats,water,andsalt.Cover,bringtoaboil, then lower the heat and simmer until the oats are tender and no trace ofbrightwhiteisvisibleatthecenterwhenagrainiscutinhalf,about20minutes.Drainwell. Ifnotusing rightaway, rinseundercoldwater tocool,drainwell,thentransfertoanairtightcontainerandrefrigerateorfreeze.Toreheat,seethispage.

TOCOOKSTEEL-CUTORSCOTTISH(PINHEAD)OATS

Grain ½cup(90g) 1cup(180g)


Salt(opt.) Pinch ¼teaspoon

Pansize 2-quart(2-L) 2-quart(2-L)

Yield 1½ to1¾cups (370 to430g) 3to3½cups(740to860g)

In a heavy saucepan, combine the oats, water, and salt. Bring to a boil, thenlowertheheatandsimmer,stirringfrequently,untilthemixtureisthickandtheoats are tender but still a little chewy, 20 to 25minutes for steel-cut oats, 10minutesforScottish.Ifnotusingrightaway,scrapeintoanairtightcontainer,letcool,andrefrigerate.Toreheat,seethispage.

TOCOOKREGULAROREXTRATHICKROLLEDOATS


Water1cup(240ml)forregularoats,or 1¼ cups (300 ml) forextrathickoats

2 cups (480 ml) for regularoats, or 2½ cups (600 ml) forextrathickoats



Yield 1cup(240g) 2cups(480g)

In a heavy saucepan, combine the oats, water, and salt. Bring to a boil, thenlowertheheatandsimmer,stirringfrequently,untilthemixtureisthickandtheoatsaretenderbutstillalittlechewy,6to8minutesforregularrolledoats,10to

15 minutes for extrathick. If not using right away, scrape into an airtightcontainer,letcool,andrefrigerate.Toreheat,seethispage.

ALLHAILTHESPURTLE

ThetraditionalstirringimplementforoatmealporridgeinScotlandisalong,roundwoodenstickwithataperedroundedorslightlyangledend.Mymom,whensheheardIwasgoingtobewritingabookaboutwhole grains, got to work whittling a quiverful of spurtles frommountainalderbranchesshecutfromaroundthehouseintheScotiaValley, north of Spokane, where she and my dad apparently enjoymaking work for their retired selves. The spurtles are beautiful, ofcourse, but also, surprisingly, much better for stirring oatmeal—especiallythesteel-cutvariety—thanmyusualstandbyforsuchtasks,theheatproofsiliconespatula.Aspurtlecangetintothecornersofthepotandmovethroughthemassofoatmealwithoutpushingitaroundtoomuch.Orsomething.It’shardtoexplainwhythesespurtlesworkso well, but if you make a lot of oatmeal, I’d suggest whittlingyourselfastickforstirring it,orhavemymomorsomeone likeherwhittleoneforyou.

QUINOA

Chenopodiumquinoa,fam.Amaranthaceae|glutenfree

Ivoryquinoa/Redquinoa

Anancientpseudograin in thesamefamilyasamaranth,andclosely related tothe edible weed lamb’s quarters, quinoa is native to the Andes and has beencultivatedinhigh-altitudePerusinceabout3000B.C.E.TheIncascalleditchisiyamama,orthemothergrain,andit’snothardtounderstandwhy:Theseedsofferawell-balanced complete protein and high levels of calcium, phosphorus, andiron,andtheplantsgrowwellinthecold,dryclimateoftheAndes,wherefewother crops can survive. Quinoa does, however, require labor-intensiveprocessing to remove thebitter saponin that coats each seed toprotect it frombirdsand insects; thesedays,mostmodernquinoaproducersemployextensivewashingandabrasiontoremoveit.Butsincesomeofthepowderycoatingmayremain even if it’s not immediately visible, I still rinse all quinoawell beforecooking,havingbeenscarredbymyfirstexperiencewithquinoaadecadeandahalf or so ago: I’d cooked it myself, never having eaten it before (why not,right?) and had no idea itwas supposed to be rinsed first. Itwasmany yearsbefore I decided to try it again. Later I read thatwhen the Spanish arrived inSouthAmerica, theymight have rejected quinoa for the same reason, as theydeclined to send any back to the motherland with shipments of potatoes andcorn.

I’m glad I did try it again, because it’s quite possibly the most versatile,easy-to-preparewholegrainthereis.It’sawfullyhardtomessupquinoa,which

isquiteforgivingtotheinattentivecook:Itneverreallygetsmushy,asthegerm,whichunfurlsfromthegrainasitcooks,remainsalittlecrunchy(pleasantlyso!)even when simmered much longer or in more water than recommended. Theflavorismild,nutty,slightlysweet;thetextureislightandfluffy.

Quinoaseedsareatouchsmallerthanthoseofmillet,butareflatanddisk-shaped rather than perfect spheres. If you look closely, you can see the germ(which makes up a whopping 60 percent of the grain), a bright white strandsurrounding theedgeof thedisk.Thereare threemainvarietiesofquinoa thatarereadilyavailableingoodsupermarketsandhealthfoodstores:ivoryorwhite,red,andblack.Redandblackquinoaretainabitmoretexturewhencooked,andtheirgrainsdon’tclumptogetherasmuch.Inalloftherecipesinthisbook,thethreeareprettymuchinterchangeable(likeIsaid,quinoaforgivesall),butIdomakesuggestionswhen thecolororconsistencyofonewouldbepreferable toanother.Quinoaisalsoavailableasflakes,whichresembleverythin,translucentrolled oats—check the gluten-free section of the store for them. They can beused as a very-quick-cooking hot cereal, or added to baked goods or blendeddrinks,orgroundintoflour.

QUINOAFLOUR

You can easily make your own quinoa flour by whirring ivory quinoa to apowder in a spice mill (a mini food processor might work if yours is morepowerfulthanmineseemstobe),butit’salsoavailableinhealthfoodstores—it’s always whole grain, even if it doesn’t say so on the label. It has amild,grassyflavorthatdissipatesabitasitbakes.I’dadditinsmalldosestobakedgoods to up the protein value, but remember that its lack of gluten means itneedstobepairedwithhigh-glutenfloursinyeastbreads.

TOCOOKWHOLEIVORY,RED,ORBLACKQUINOA






Rinsethequinoawellinafine-meshsieve;drainwell.Putitinaheavysaucepan

withthewaterandsalt.Coverandbringtoaboilovermedium-highheat,thenlowertheheatandsimmeruntilthequinoaistenderandtheliquidisabsorbed,15to20minutes.Fluffwitharubberspatula.Ifnotusingrightaway,transfertoasieveor spreadona largeplate tocool, then transfer toanairtightcontainerandrefrigerateorfreeze.Toreheatorthaw,seethispage.

SPROUTINGGRAINS

Therearen’thugehealthbenefitstobefoundinsproutedgrainsunlessyou have something against cooked foods and need the additionalprotein that results from sprouting or if you find cooked grainsdifficulttodigest—sproutingthegraintoeatitraw(orsimplysoakingovernight anddraining thembefore cooking them in theusualway)removessomeof theacidspresent insomegrains thatcanupset thestomach. I like to sprout grains every once in awhile for no betterreason than that I enjoy the crunchy-chewy textureof rawgrains insomedishes,likethesaladsonthispageandthispage.Millet,quinoa,hardredwheatberries,andryeberriesaretheeasiesttosprout.

TOSPROUTMILLET,QUINOA,HARDREDWHEATBERRIES,ORRYEBERRIES

Put1cup (200g) rawmillet,quinoa,hard redwheatberries,or ryeberriesinafine-meshsieveandrinsewellundercoolrunningwater;drain.Transfertoaquart-size(960-ml)container(aglasscanningjarwithawidemouthisperfect)andcoverwithatleast3cups(720ml)coolwater(enoughtofill thejar).Coverlooselywiththelidandletsoak at room temperature for about 8 hours. Drain by holding anupside-down fine-mesh sieve flush against themouth of the jar andflipping over; once drained, tip the grains back into the jar. Coverwithwater again to rinse thegrains, drain themwell, put the lidonloosely or cover the jar with a piece of cheesecloth securedwith arubber band, and set aside at room temperature for 4 to 8 hours.Continuetorinseanddrainlikethisabouttwiceaday,untilthegrainsaresprouted—thesproutswillbeverysmallbuttender-crunchy,withjustthebaresthintofpalegreen.Notethatsproutedgrainsdon’tlooklike sprouted beans—the sprout part is much shorter and smaller.Tighten the lid on the jar and refrigerate. Eat the sprouts raw (in asalad, for example, or on a sandwich), or knead them into breaddoughforextratexture,within2days.

RICE

Oryzasativa,fam.Poaceaeglutenfree

Wehanirice/Chineseblackrice

Short-grainbrownrice/Brownbasmatirice

Rice is one of the earliest domesticated grains, first cultivated in theYangtzeRiverValleyinChinaatleasteightthousandyearsago(probablymuchearlier),and the staple food of more than half the world’s population. Rice is moreimportanttoAsianfoodculturesthananyonefoodistoAmericanfoodculture.YoulikelyalreadyhaveasenseofthecentralityofriceinAsia,andhavereadthat inmanyAsian languages thewords that refer togeneralizedeatingand toriceinparticulararesimilar,ifnotthesame(kindofhowinmymom’sfamilythe word for dessert was “pie”). If you need a more commercial-mindedillustrationofrice’swide-rangingimportance,youmightbeinterestedtoknowthatthewordToyotameans“richricefield,”andHondameanssomethinglike“mainricefield.”

Most rice consumed today iswhite rice,whichhasbeenmilled to suchanextentthatthebranandgermhavebeenpolishedofftorevealthepearlywhite,starchy endosperm; in the process, rice loses most of its B vitamin and ironcontent, aswell asmostof the fiber.Brown rice,our focushere, is thewholegrain:ricewithitsbranandgermandallitsnutrientsintact.Replacingwhitericewithbrownrice—orredorChineseblackrice,whicharealsowhole—canhavesignificant health benefits. Chinese black rice, or gao den, a medium-grainnonglutinousrice,isworthseekingoutinparticular—it’savailableinanyAsiangrocery store and many supermarkets—for its iron content as well as itsgorgeous color. Sure, whole grain rice is nuttier tasting than white rice, butwhat’swrongwithnutty?Likeothernonprocessedgrains,ittakesabitlongertocook(thoughtherearewaysyoumightgetaroundthat)anddoeshaveashorter

shelf life, but unless you’re stocking up for the end times, as an averageconsumeryouwon’tneedtoworrytoomuchaboutbrownricegoingrancid.

Therearecountlessvarietiesofrice,butsinceasyetonlyafewofthemareveryreadilyavailablehereintheirunpolished,wholegrainform,therecipesinthisbookrepresentthosefewgeneraltypes,andyoucanadaptthemtowhatevernewvarietyofriceyoumightfindinspecialtystores.Themostcommonwholegrainricesare:•Brownbasmatirice:longgrain,aromatic,fluffywithseparategrains when cooked • Long-grain or Carolina brown rice: relatively fluffywhen cooked • Short-grain brown rice or brown sweet rice: stickier orcreamier when cooked • Chinese black or “forbidden” rice: medium grain,relativelystickyandcreamywhencooked•Wehaniorredrice:mediumgrain,separatewhencooked

There are entire books devoted to determining the very best way to cookdifferentkindsofrice,andnomatterwhatmethodyouuse,youshouldbeawarethateverybagorcontainerofricewillbealittlebitdifferentfromthelast.Oneparticularbrandandvarietyofricehadbeencookingupperfectlyformeforsolong that I thought I’d finally cracked the rice-cooking code.My hubris wasrewardedwithacouplemiserablemonthsof sloggingmyway throughahugebagof the same rice that absolutely refused tobecome tender at thecenternomatterhowlongitwascookedorinhowmuchwaterorhowmuchtherestofitdisintegrated intomush in the pan. I’ll provide some simple and usually veryeffective stovetop saucepanmethodsbelow,butwith ricemore thananyothergrainyou’llprobablyhavetoexperimenttofigureoutwhatworksbestforyouandyourrice.Ifyouhavearicecooker—whichIdonot,sinceIhaveacoupleofgoodheavysaucepansand,usually,thetimetoemploythemtocookgrains—ricesandotherwholegrainslikemillet,quinoa,wheatberries,ryeberries,evencornmealcanallbecookedinone,thoughyouwillprobablyhavetoexperimentabittofindtherightsettingandgrain-to-waterratioforeachgrainandforyourparticularmodelofricecooker.

BROWNRICEFLOUR

I thought brown rice flour was an affront to humanity—it was coarse andproduceddryandunpalatablebakedgoods—untilIdiscoveredtheextra-super-finevarietymadebyBob’sRedMillandthestuffthat’snowavailableinbulkatmy local specialty food store. These more sophisticated flours make tender,crumblybuttercookies,andareeminentlyusefulingluten-freebakedgoods.

TOCOOKBROWNBASMATI,LONG-GRAINBROWNRICE,ORWEHANIOROTHERREDRICES,TWO-STAGEMETHOD

The best way I’ve found to cook long-grain brown rices so the grains stayrelatively separate and don’t become mushy is fairly simple and requires nofussymeasurements.

Rinsethericeinatleastthreechangesofcoolwater,thenputitinaheavysaucepan(foraboutacupofriceusea1½-to2-quart/1.4-to2-Lpot;foralargerbatchusea3-quart /2.8-Lpot)andaddwater to justcover it.Bring toaboil,thenlowertheheatandsimmerfor15minutes.Thericewillbetenderbutnotcookedallthewaythrough.Draininadeepsieveandrinsegentlyunderrunningwater.(Ifyoulike,transferallorsomeofthericetofreezerbagsandrefrigerateorfreezetosteamlater.)Tocontinuetocooktherice,putabout1inchofwaterinthesaucepanandsetthesieveoverthepanwiththelidnestleddownovertherice.(Evenbetter,especiallyifyou’remakingalarge-ishbatch,considerputtingthe rice in a collapsible steamerbasket and setting it down inside thepan andthencoveringthepan.)Bringtoaboilandsteamthericeuntiltenderandcookedallthewaythrough,15to20minutes.

Ifyoueatalotofrice,itmightmakesensetoparboilacouplecupsofitatatime,dividing it intobatchesand refrigeratingor freezing it for later.To thawfrozenparboiled rice,dump itoutof thebagorothercontainer intoasieveorsteamerbasketandrinseundercoolrunningwaterforaminuteorso,usingyourfingerstoseparatethegrains;it’snowreadytosteamandserve.

TOCOOKBROWNBASMATI,OROTHERLONG-GRAINORSHORT-GRAINBROWNRICE,SIMPLEABSORPTIONMETHOD

Ifyouprefertocookyourriceinonestage,youcaneithersimmeranyamountofriceinlotsofsaltedwater(likepasta)anddrainitwellinasieve,orusetheabsorption method below. If you use the absorption method, cook in smallbatchesofnomorethan1cuptokeepitfrombecomingmushy.

Grain 1cup(190g)

Water 2cups(480ml)



Yield 3to4cups(600to800g)

Rinse the rice in at least three changes of cool water; drain well. In a heavysaucepan, combine the rice,water, and salt.Bring to aboilovermedium-highheat,thencover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmeruntilthericeistenderandmostoftheliquidisabsorbed,about30minutes.Drainifnecessary.Coverandletstandfor5to10minutesbeforefluffingandserving.Ifnotusingrightaway,spread on a large plate and let cool, then transfer to an airtight container andrefrigerateorfreeze.Toreheatorthaw,seethispage.

TOCOOKWEHANIOROTHERREDRICE,SIMPLEABSORPTIONMETHOD

Grain 1cup(190g)

Water 2cups(480ml)



Yield 2½cups(500g)

Rinse the rice in at least three changes of cool water; drain well. In a heavysaucepan, combine the rice,water, and salt.Bring to aboilovermedium-highheat,thencover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmeruntilthericeistenderandmostoftheliquidisabsorbed,about30minutes.Drainifnecessary.Coverandletstandfor5to10minutesbeforefluffingandserving.Ifnotusingrightaway,spread on a large plate and let cool, then transfer to an airtight container andrefrigerateorfreeze.Toreheatorthaw,seethispage.

TOCOOKCHINESEBLACKRICE

This ricecooksupdeeppurple,witha risotto-likeconsistency rather thandry,separategrains.Inmyexperiencethecheaperricelabeled“gaoden”andsoldinAsian food shops needs to be soaked in advance so it cooks evenly; moreexpensive—perhapsfresher?—ricelabeled“forbiddenrice”doesn’tneedasoak.

Grain 1cup(190g)

Water 2cups(480ml)



Yield 2½cups(500g)

Rinsethericeinasieveundercoolrunningwater.Ifsoaking,putthericeinacontainerandcoverwithcoldwaterby1inch(2.5cm);setasidetosoakfor4hours.Drainwell.Inaheavysaucepan,combinetherice,water,andsalt.Bringtoaboilovermedium-highheat,thencover,reducetheheattolow,andsimmeruntil the rice is tender andmost of the liquid is absorbed, about 40minutes.Drain ifdesired.Coverand let standfor5 to10minutesbeforestirringgentlyandserving. Ifnotusing rightaway, spreadona largeplateand letcool, thentransfertoanairtightcontainerandrefrigerateorfreeze.Toreheatorthaw,seethispage.

RYE

Secalecereale,fam.Poaceaecontainsgluten

Ryeberries

Thespeciesofrye that iscultivated isnot toodistantlydescendedfromawildgrass native to the mountainous area around Turkey, northern Iran, andCaucasus.Becauseitcangerminateatlowertemperaturesthancanothercerealslike wheat, it has long been a staple crop of eastern Europe and Russia,otherwise known as the land of pumpernickel, a deliciously dark, dense breadmadeofvaryingshadesoflowglutenryeflour.

Whole rye berries do appear to be seeds of a fairly wild plant. They’reprobablythemostintimidating-lookingofthetruegrainsyou’llseeinthebulkbinsat thelocalco-oporgrocerystore:Long,rough,withagreenishtint, theylookliketheywerejustharvestedyesterday,andthey’ll takeagestocookintosomething palatable—if they ever do. I’m here to tell you that they areabsolutelyworthusingregularly.Theyindeedtakeabout50minutestocook,butlikealllarge-ishgrains,theyfreezeexceptionallywellandcanbetakenrightoutof the freezerand runundercoolwater for justaminute to thawbeforebeingusedinsaladsoraddedtoheartysoupsorevenkneadedintoabreaddough.Theflavorofryeberriesisoftendescribedastangy,butIdetectsomethingmorelikegreen-ness,and Iwill admit that I find itdifficult to separate the flavorof ryefrom that of its fragrant and near-constant companion, caraway. To me, ryetasteslike“whateveritisthatgoessowellwithcaraway.”

WHOLERYEFLOUR

Wholeryeflourisalsosometimescalleddarkryeflour,andthis—asopposedtolightryeflour,whichhasthebranandgermremovedandisgoodforJewishryebread—iswhat I use in the recipes in this book. Its lowgluten contentmeansthatwhen it’s used in yeast breads, it’s usually combinedwithwheat flour; itmakesagreat,dense,pumpernickel-typebread.Darkryemeal,orpumpernickelflour, is very coarse and is best suited to real wild-fermented German-stylebreads.

TOCOOKRYEBERRIES

Grain 1cup(180g)

Water 3cups(720ml)



Yield 2½cups(440g)

Inaheavysaucepan,combinetheryeberriesandwater.Cover,bringtoaboil,then lower theheatandsimmeruntil theryeberriesare tenderandno traceofbrightwhiteisvisibleatthecenterwhenagrainiscutinhalf,about50minutes.Addthesalttowardtheend.Drainwell.Ifnotusingrightaway,rinseundercoldrunningwater until cool, drainwell, then transfer to an airtight container andrefrigerateorfreeze.Toreheatorthaw,seethispage.

SORGHUM

Sorghumbicolor,fam.Poaceaeglutenfree

Sorghum

Sorghum is believed to have originated in Africa and thenmigrated to India,though it’s not clear in which region it was domesticated. It was most likelybrought toAmerica fromAfrica by slaves, and is now grown in dry areas ofTexas, Oklahoma, and Kansas, as well as along the muddy Mississippi. BenFranklin himselfwas the first in this country to grow a type of sorghumnowknown here as “broomcorn,” whose stiff tassels were used to make broombristles—theadmirably curious fellowhadpluckeda few stray sorghumseedsfromanimportedbroomandplantedthem.

For the last few centuries, sorghum has been saddledwith a reputation as“poor-folks’food,”butasgluten-freeeatinghasbecomemorepopular(ormorenecessary,dependingonyoursituation),once-lowlysorghumisfinallystartingtogainsomemajorculinarycred. In theSouth,sorghumsyrup,alsoknownassorghummolasses,whichisextractedfromthestalkslikesugarfromsugarcane,wasonce a commondrizzling sweetener for pancakes, biscuits, and cornbread(toocommon,accordingtomylateKentucky-raisedgrandmother,whowouldn’ttouchthestufflaterinlife,asitremindedherofpoortimes);nowit’spracticallyaboutiqueingredient.Mostsorghumusedforfoodinthiscountryisintheformof whole grain flour, which is almost ubiquitous in gluten-free bakery-madegoodsandbakingmixes.

Though sorghum iswidelyused as awholegrain inAfrica and the Indian

subcontinent,I’dneverseenwholesorghumgrainsforsaleuntilwhitesorghumberriesturneduprecentlyinoneofmyregularbulk-purchasehaunts.Itried’em,liked’em,andsodecidedtoincludeafewrecipesusingthemhere,inthehopesthat you’ll be able to obtain themaswell.Round and irregularly pale tan anddarkbrown,sorghumgrainsareaboutasbigas…well,asbigas theshotweusedtobitedownonwhendiningononeofthegeesethatflewovermyparents’houseinVirginiaandgotunluckyjustbeforeThanksgivingorChristmas,orballbearings,orBBs.Theyarejustslightlysweet,andmild,notnuttylikeothertruegrains, and when cooked they have a consistency similar to that of Israelicouscous—thatis,abitchewy,liketinyballsofpasta.YoucouldcertainlyusecookedsorghuminanyrecipetoreplaceIsraelicouscous.

To my delight, at least some varieties of sorghum, including the whitesorghumIuse,canbepoppedina littleoil likepopcorn(oreven inadrypanwithnooilatall,likeamaranth).ThepuffsareLilliputian,butlooklikepopcornandaredeeplytoastedinflavor.Notallofthegrainswillpopinthepan,buttheonesthatdon’tarenotdangerouslyhardlikepopcorn“oldmaids.”Rather,theyare crunchy and totally edible like the half-popped popcorn kernels that I andI’m sure many other people so adore. (Incidentally, if you know how todeliberately half-pop popcorn, please contact me post-haste via this book’spublisherwiththatinformation.)They’resosmallthateatingthemoutofhandisa bit tiresome unless you’re of the scoop-and-pour-into-the-mouth school ofpopcorneatingratherthanthedaintypluck-and-nibble,butIhappilyuseitasacoldbreakfastcereal,anditwouldbebeautifulinsomethinglikethefoolonthispageorstirredintoagranola.

TOCOOKWHOLESORGHUM






Rinse thesorghumwell ina fine-meshsieve;drainwell. Inaheavysaucepan,combinethesorghumandwater.Cover,bringtoaboil,thenlowertheheatandsimmeruntilthesorghumistenderandalmostallofthegrainshaverevealedatleastsomeofthetranslucentgrayishgerm,45to50minutes.Addthesalttoward

theend.Drainwell.Ifnotusingrightaway,rinseundercoldwatertocool,thentransfertoanairtightcontainerandrefrigerateorfreeze.Toreheatorthaw,seethispage.

TOPOPSORGHUM

Inalargeheavysaucepanwithalid,heatabout2teaspoonsvegetableoiloverhighheatuntil it shimmers.Add⅓ cup (65g) rawsorghum,cover,andcook,shakingthepanfrequently,untilthepoppingsoundstaperoff,about2minutes.Immediately turn out into a large bowl and serve.Makes about 1 cup (20 g),withsomeunpoppedbutperfectlymunchablekernels.

TEFF

Eragrostistef,fam.Poaceaeglutenfree

Brownteff/Ivoryteffflour

Teff originated in Ethiopia and, for whatever reason, stayed there for manymillennia.InEthiopiait’sthemaingrainusedtomaketheubiquitousflatbreadinjera: The grains are coatedwith a symbiotic yeast,much like the bloom onwinegrapes,whichaidsnaturalfermentationoftheteff-flourbatter.(Theinjerarecipe on this page also contains some commercial yeast to speed up andstandardize theprocessabit.)Very little teff isgrownoutsideofEthiopia,butbecauseoftheincreasingpopularityofthegluten-freegrainandtheflourmadefromit,thathasbeenchanginginrecentyears.

Teff and teff flour is always whole grain, as the individual grains are soexceptionallytiny(thewordtef,infact,comesfromtheAmharicfor“lost”)thatit’simpossibletoremovethebran.Therearethreemainvarietiesofteff:ivory(orwhite),brown,and red. I’veonlyever seenwholebrown teff and ivoryorbrown teff flour for sale; apparently, the red variety, while the easiest andcheapesttogrow,islessdesirable.WholeteffgrainscookintoaporridgeabouttheconsistencyofsoftpolentaorCreamofWheatcereal,whichiswhyIliketouse it in a spicy breakfast upma (this page) in place of soji (a refined wheatfarinasimilartoCreamofWheat).

TOCOOKTEFF


Water 1½cups(360ml) 3cups(720g)



Yield 1cup(250g) 2cups(500g)

In aheavy saucepanovermedium-highheat, toast the teff, stirring constantly,untilfragrantandbeginningtocrackle,3to4minutes.Addthewaterandsalt,bring toaboil, then lower theheatandsimmer, stirringoccasionally,until themixtureisthickandtheindividualgrainsareslightlyswollen,about20minutes.If not using right away, let cool, then transfer to an airtight container andrefrigerateorfreeze.Toreheat,seethispage.

TRITICALE

Triticosecale,fam.Poaceaecontainsgluten

Triticaleberries

As its name implies, triticale (pronounced “trit-i-KAY-lee”) is a hybrid crossbetweenwheat (Triticum), specifically hardwinterwheat, and rye (Secale). Itwas firstgrown in the1870s,but itwasn’tuntil the1950s thatbreedersbeganseriouslytryingtodevelopthegrainforfull-scaleproduction.Theideawasthatthehybridwouldbeasproductiveanddiseaseresistantaswheat,andashardyascold-loving rye.Thecropswere relativelysuccessful,andcontinue to improveasbreedingpracticesarerefined,butconsumershaveforthemostpartfailedtonoticethatanewgrainisamongus.Themainbenefitoftriticaleisthatitcanbemore successfully grown organically—or at least with fewer pesticides andsynthetic fertilizers thanwheat requires. Triticale is low in gluten, so its flourisn’t ideal for making yeast breads, but it may be useful to people who aresensitivetoglutenbutdonothaveceliacdisease.Itsryeheritagemakestriticaleflour anatural addition to ryebreads ifyouwant to lighten thedistinctive ryeflavor a bit; try adding cooked triticale berries to the bread dough for moretexture.

Initswholegrainform,triticaleisverysimilartothemorereadilyavailablehardredwheatberries,andsoobjectivelyspeaking,itmaynotbeworthseekingout unless you need an organic and lower-gluten grain. You can substitutetriticaleberriesforwheatberriesinanyrecipeinthisbook.

TOCOOKWHOLETRITICALEBERRIES

Grain ½cup(180g) 2cups(360g)

Water 3cups(720ml) 6cups(1.4-L)




Inaheavysaucepan,combine the triticaleberriesandwater.Cover,bring toaboil,thenlowertheheatandsimmeruntilthetriticaleberriesaretenderandnotraceofbrightwhiteisvisibleatthecenterwhenagrainiscutinhalf,about40minutes,addingthesalttowardtheend.Drainwell.Ifnotusingrightaway,rununder coldwater to cool, drainwell, then transfer to an airtight container andrefrigerateorfreeze.Toreheat,seethispage.

WHEAT

Triticumaestivum,fam.Poaceaecontainsgluten

Kamut/Softwhitewheatberries

Freekeh/Crackedwheat

Farro/Bulgur

Triticumisthegrandfatherofthetruegrainsandarguablythemostversatileinitswholegrainform—fromamultitudeofvarietiesofwheatberries,tocrackedwheat, couscous, bulgur, and, of course, wholewheat flour. According to theWhole Grains Council, about two-thirds of the grain consumed in the UnitedStates iswheat. It’shighingluten,whichiswhatmakesyeastedbreaddoughsstretchyandabletoriseascarbondioxideformsthroughtheactivityofyeast.Ofcourse,mostofthewheatconsumedhereandaroundtheworldisintheformofhighlyprocessedwhiteflour.IntheStatesandsomeothercountries,whiteflourisalmostalwaysenriched,meaningthatsomeofthenutrientslostwhenthebranisremovedareaddedback(andfolicacidisalsoaddedforgoodmeasure).Butenriched flour isnutritionally inferior to flourmade fromwholewheat:Wholewheat flour,whetherwhitewholewheator regular, containsmoreprotein andmuchmorefiber.

Butthere’saworldofwheatouttherebeyondflour—wheathasmoreformsthanmanyothergrains.Chewy,nuttywheatberrieshavebeenafavoriteofminesincemymom cooked them up formy brother andme as a special breakfasttreatwithasprinkleofsugarandplentyofcoldmilk tocool thegrainsdown.Wheatberriescanbeusedincountlessotherwaysaswell:insoupsandIndian-style stews like dals, in cold salads, and warm as a plain side dish. Crackedwheat,whethermadefromregularwheatberriesorstillslightlygreenones(inwhichcaseitissoldasfreekeh),iswholewheatthathasbeencoarselycrushed;itcanbemadeintosweetpuddingsorheartysidedishes,andcanbesoakedinwateruntil softandadded tobreaddoughsfor texture.Wholewheat farina—a

wholegrainversionofmybelovedchildhoodCreamofWheatcereal,akawheatfarinaor,inIndia,soji—isstillprettytoughtofindinretailmarkets,butyoucanmakesomethinglikeitusingcrackedwheat:Justblitzitinagoodspicegrinderuntilit’sacoupleshadesfiner,andit’llcookintoanicesoftporridge.Bulguriswholewheat thathasbeenpartiallycooked,dried, andbroken into finepiecesforquickcooking—it’sanimportantformofthegrain,especiallyintheMiddleEast, where it appears in salads like tabbouleh and is used to stretch morevaluable (or at leastmore expensive)meat.Wholewheat couscous is anotherquick-cookingformofthegrain;it’smadebyalaboriousprocessofmoisteninggroundwheat(specificallytheharddurumvariety)andrubbingandrollingthepieces together until they clump into little pellets, then steaming them inspecializedvessels.Thewholewheatcouscousavailableinstoresneedsonlyabriefsoakinboilingwatertoreconstituteit.

Besides all the different forms whole wheat can take, there are the manydifferent varieties of Triticum that are readily available in supermarkets andhealth foodstores.Two typesofwholewheatberriesarecommonlyavailable:hard red wheat and soft white wheat. Hard red wheat berries are higher inproteinandcookupfirmerthansoftwhitewheatberries.

InItaly,farroisthecommonnameforeinkorn,emmer,andspelt,whichareuniquebutsimilarspeciesofwheat:•einkorn:Triticummonococcumorfarropiccolo•emmer:Triticumdicocconorfarromedio

•spelt:Triticumspeltaorfarrogrande

Despite my personal resistance to understanding the Italian language (whichprobablydatesback tocollegeyearsmarredbyeightA.M.Latinclasses), Iusetheword farro to refer towhat Iampretty sure is specificallyemmerbecausemostoften it is labeled“farro” in retail settings, it is indeed smaller andmoredelicate in texture than spelt (hence farro medio), and because some sourcesidentifybothfarroandemmerasTriticumdicoccon. Inotherwords,whenyoubuysomethinginthiscountrythat’slabeled“farro,”it’salmostcertainlyemmer.Almostalways“semi-pearled,”meaningthatsomeofthebranhasbeenremovedinprocessing,farro/emmerberriescookintoverytender,almostcreamygrainsand,because they releasea fairamountof starchwhenstirredduringcooking,are commonly used in risotto-like preparations. Spelt is firmer, with largerberries, and is more appropriate for use in composed salads or hearty stews.

Einkorn,asmallvarietyofwheatberry,isstillprettyhardtofindinthiscountry,andIhaven’thadmuchneedtoseekitoutwhenverysimilaralternativesaresoreadilyavailablejustdownthestreetatthelocalgrocerystore.

Anotherheirloomspeciesofwheat,Kamut is the trademarkedbrandnameforagrain“owned”byoneBobQuinn,aMontanafarmerwhowasthefirsttosuccessfully market it, beginning in the 1980s. Legend—and KamutInternational,Inc.,natch—hasitthatafterWorldWarII,anairmanstationedinEgypt somehow obtained thirty-six grains of wheat that had been found in atomb(notKingTut’s,but itmightaswellhavebeen—this is legendafterall).Theairmangavethemtoafarm-boyfriendofhis,thefarmboymailedthemtohisfarmerfatherinMontana,thegrainswereplanted,thegrainsgrew,andthespecies, untouched by modern biotechnology for thousands of years, wasrevived. The common name for the species is khorasan wheat, an ancientancestor of durum wheat that boasts more protein and vitamins and mineralsthancommonwheat.Itsgrainsaremuchlargerandmoreelongatedthanthoseofcommonwheat,andareabeautifulgoldencolor.SomepeopleclaimthatKamuttastesbuttery;Ifinditmildandslightlysweet,appealinglyfirmandchewywhencooked. There’s also some early evidence that Kamut may be more tolerablethancommonwheattopeoplewithglutenorwheatsensitivities.

WHOLEWHEAT,WHITEWHOLEWHEAT,ANDWHOLEWHEATPASTRYFLOURS

Whitewholewheatflourismadefromahardwhitewheatvariety,soit’slighterincolorandmilderinflavorthanregularwholewheatflourmadefromhardredwheat, and can easily be substituted for all or part of the all-purpose (white,refined) flour in just about any recipe. Plus, it offers the same nutritionaladvantages over refined white flour as the darker, hard red wheat variety,bringing more protein, slightly fewer carbohydrates, and of course tons morefiber:•100gwhiteorregularwholewheatflour:13.2 g protein, 72 g carbohydrate, 10.7 g fiber • 100 g all-purpose (white,refined)flour:10.3gprotein,76.3gcarbohydrate,2.7gfiberWholewheatpastryflourismadefrom a softwhitewheat and has a nutritional profile similar to regularwholewheatflour,butbecauseitisslightlylowerinproteinandgluten,itwon’tmakeforastretchy,high-risingyeastdough;useitinsteadforshortpastries,cookies,orcrackers.

WHOLESPELTFLOUR

Speltisakindofwheat,butsinceitcontainsconsiderablylessglutenthanother

wheat flours, it gets its ownparagraph. It has just enoughgluten that you cansuccessfullyuseonlyspeltflourinyeastedbreads,thoughthey’llbedenserandheavier than regular-wheat-flour goods. Some peoplewho are sensitive to thegluteninmorecommonwheatvarietiescantoleratespelt,butthosewithceliacdiseaseshouldavoiditcompletely.

TOCOOKHARDREDORWHITEWHEATBERRIES,SOFTWHITEWHEATBERRIES,SPELTBERRIES,ORKAMUTBERRIES





Yield 2½cups(475g) 5cups(950g)

In a heavy saucepan, combine thewheat berries andwater. Cover, bring to aboil, then lower theheatandsimmeruntil thewheatberriesare tenderandnotraceofbrightwhiteisvisibleatthecenterwhenagrainiscutinhalf,about30minutes for softwhitewheat, 35minutes for spelt, 40minutes forKamut, 50minutesforhardredorwhitewheat.Addthesalttowardtheend.Drainwell.Ifnotusingrightaway,spreadonalargeplatetocool,thentransfertoanairtightcontainerandrefrigerateorfreeze.Toreheatorthaw,seethispage.

TOCOOKFARRO(EMMER)






Inaheavysaucepanovermedium-highheat,toastthefarro,stirringfrequently,untilfragrant,about4minutes.Stirinthewaterandsalt,cover,bringtoaboil,thenlowertheheatandsimmeruntilthegrainsaretenderandmostofthewaterisabsorbed,15 to20minutes.Dump the farro intoa fine-meshsieve todrain,

thenfluffandserve.Ifnotusingrightaway,runundercoldwatertocool,thentransfertoanairtightcontainerandrefrigerateorfreeze.Toreheatorthaw,seethispage.

TOCOOKFINE-ORMEDIUM-GRIND(no.1or2)BULGUR


Water 1¼cups(300ml) 2½cups(600ml)



Yield 3cups(540g) 6cups(1kg)

Inaheavysaucepan,bringthewatertoaboil.Stirinthebulgurandsalt,cover,andremovefromtheheat.Letstanduntil thebulgur is tenderandthewater isabsorbed, about 10minutes for fine, 15minutes formedium. If the bulgur istenderandthereisstillalittlewaterremaininginthepan,drainthebulgurinafine-meshsieve.Fluffwithaspatula.Ifnotusingrightaway,spreadonalargeplate tocool, thentransfer toanairtightcontainerandrefrigerateorfreeze.Toreheatorthaw,seethispage.

TOCOOKCOARSE-GRIND(no.3)BULGUR





Yield 3cups(540g) 6cups(1kg)

Inaheavysaucepan,bringthewatertoaboil.Stirinthebulgurandsalt,cover,andlowertheheat.Simmeruntilthebulguristenderandthewaterisabsorbed,about15minutes.Ifthebulguristenderandthereisstillalittlewaterremainingin the pan, drain the bulgur in a fine-mesh sieve. Fluff with a spatula. If notusing right away, spread on a large plate to cool, then transfer to an airtightcontainerandrefrigerateorfreeze.Toreheatorthaw,seethispage.

TOCOOKCRACKEDWHEATORFREEKEH


Water 1½cups(360ml) 2½cups(570ml)


Oil 2teaspoons 1tablespoon



In a heavy saucepan, heat the oil overmedium-high heat and add the crackedwheatorfreekeh.Cook,stirring,untilfragrant,about2minutes.Addthewaterandsalt,cover,bringtoaboil,thenlowertheheatandsimmeruntilthewaterisabsorbedandthecrackedwheatistender,10to12minutes.Ifthecrackedwheatis too soupy at this point, uncover and cook until the excess water hasevaporated.Removefromtheheat,fluffwithaspatula,cover,andletstandfor5minutes.Ifnotusingrightaway,spreadonalargeplatetocool,thentransfertoanairtightcontainerandrefrigerateorfreeze.Toreheatorthaw,seethispage.

TOCOOKWHOLEWHEATCOUSCOUS




Oil 2teaspoons 1tablespoon



Inaheavysaucepan,bringthewaterandoiltoaboil.Stirinthecouscousandsalt,cover,andremovefromtheheat.Letstanduntilthecouscousistenderandthewater is absorbed, about5minutes.Fluffwitha spatula. Ifnotusing rightaway,spreadona largeplate tocool, then transfer toanairtightcontainerandrefrigerateorfreeze.Toreheatorthaw,seethispage.

WILDRICE

Zizaniapalustris,fam.Poaceaeglutenfree

Wildrice

Wildriceismisleadinglynamedintwoways.Zizaniapalustrisisatruegrain,anaquaticgrass,but isnot amemberof the ricegenusand so,despitenameandappearance, is not actually a rice. In addition, most of the wild rice soldcommercially outside the upper Midwest is not wild at all, but cultivated inpaddies.

Dark black wild rice has most of the bran layer intact; brown wild rice,whichcooksalittlemorequickly,hasbeenpartlyscarified(thatis,someofthebran has been removed), though the scarification process apparently doesn’tresultinmuchnutrientloss.Thelabelingshouldtellyouwhereandhowthewildricewasharvested,whetherbyhand,using traditionalOjibweIndianmethods,orbymachine. Ingeneral,wild ricegrown in lakesand rivers in theMidwest(MinnesotaandMichiganare themainproducers) is thinandshort;wild ricesfromCanadausuallyhavethin,longgrains;andcultivatedwildrice(suchasthatgrowninCalifornia)isoftenthickandshort.Eachvarietyfromeachproducerorharvester isslightlydifferent inflavor,color,andtexture.Aswithtruerices, itmay take some experimenting and label reading to determine the bestway tocooktheoneyouhaveonhand.

TOCOOKBLACKORBROWNWILDRICE


Water 1½cups(360g) 3cups(720g)




Rinsethewildriceinasieve;drainwell.Inaheavysaucepan,combinetherice,water,andsaltandbring toaboil.Reduce theheat to low,cover,andsimmeruntil thewild rice is tender but still chewy andmost of the grains have split,about 50minutes for black or 35minutes for brown; some of the grainsmayhavebutterfliedallthewayopentorevealthepaleinterior.Drainifnecessary,thencoverandletstandfor5minutes.Fluffwitharubberspatula.Ifnotusingrightaway,spreadonalargeplatetocool,thentransfertoanairtightcontainerandrefrigerateorfreeze.Toreheat,seethispage.

1BreakfastandBrunch

Wholegrains forbreakfast isano-brainer. Ifyou’regoing toeatameal that’scenteredongrains,morningisafinetimetodoit,whentheenergyprovidedbytheirgoodcarbohydrateswillbenefityoumost.Porridge-stylesteel-cutorold-fashioned rolled oats are popular choices, and there are approximately sixtythousandwaystomakeoatmealmoreinterestingfromonedaytothenext(seethesepagesforbutafewofthem).Andrememberthatanythingyoucandoto

oatmeal you can do to other grains, including quinoa, amaranth, teff, crackedwheat,cornorhominygrits,andflakesmadefromrolledbarley,wheat,orryeberries (these are sold as “flakes” but are just like rolled oats).Griddle cakes,crêpes, andwaffles, too, are quick tomix up for a brunch party or even on aweekday; all it takes is overcoming the resistance to using, say, a whisk thatearlyinthemorning.Iknowthatcanbeahighmountaintoclimb,dependingonthestrengthofyourcaffeinatedbeverage,soI’vealsoincludedplentyofmake-aheadandtake-and-gooptionshere.

PUREMUESLIMakesabout10servings|vegan,glutenfree.SeeOats

Thismakes a batch big enough to prepare in a large sauté pan and store in aquart-sizecanning jar,withabout twoservings’worthofoverage forenjoyingright away.The following ismygo-to combination, but obviouslyyou shouldfeelfreetousewhateveryouhaveonhand.Ilikeamixtureofnutsandseedsforcrunch(andtogethertheymakeacompleteprotein)—trysunflowerseeds,chiaseeds,choppedpecans,walnuts,hazelnuts.Good-qualitydarkdriedapricotsaredenseandalmostfudgy,andIlovehowtheirstickyedgesgatherupthelittlebitsof muesli, hiding the treat inside. Any and all dried fruit like cranberries,cherries, diced apples, peaches, nectarines, raisins, or currants would bedelicious too. Be sparing with dried tropical fruits, however, which often arehighlysugared.

Toserve,mixequalpartsmuesliandplainyogurtormilk(oreventhewheyfrom draining yogurt) and let the muesli soften in the fridge overnight—theclassic Swissway, though not vegan.Or simply pourmilk, nutmilk, or juiceoverthemuesliandeatitunsoaked.Sweeteneachservingtotaste,ifyou’dlike,butwith thedried fruit, it reallydoesn’tneedextra sweetener.Youcouldalsosprinkle ground cinnamon or cardamom over the bowl, or cocoa powder ifyou’resoinclined.

•2tablespoonsflaxseeds•4cups(640g)rolledoats•¼cup(15g)pepitas•¼cup(30g)slicedalmonds•2tablespoonssesameseeds•2tablespoonsshreddedunsweetenedcoconut

•⅓cup(45g)diceddriedapricots,preferablyunsulphured

Inafoodprocessororspicegrinder,coarselycracktheflaxseedsandputtheminalargebowl.

Ina large,deep sautépanovermediumheat, toast theoats, tossingor stirringconstantly,untilsomeoftheoatsaregoldenandthey’reveryhottothetouch,3to5minutes(dependingonthesizeofthepan).Pourintothebowlwiththeflaxandletcoolslightly,thenscoopabouthalfoftheoatsintoafoodprocessorandpulse4or5timestoroughlychop;returnthechoppedoatstothebowl.

Inthesamepanovermediumheat,toastthepepitasandalmondstogetheruntilthe pepitas are swollen and the almonds are lightly browned. Scrape into thebowlwith theoats. In thestill-hotpan,off theheat, toast thesesameseedsforjustafewseconds,untilshinyandgolden,scrapethemintotheoats,thentoastthecoconut,againofftheheatforjustafewseconds.Addtotheoatsandtosswelltocombine.Addtheapricotsandtoss.Letcoolcompletely,thentransfertoanairtightcontainer,wherethemuesliwillkeepatroomtemperatureforuptoseveralweeks.

BARELYSWEETGRANOLAMakesabout14servings|vegan,glutenfree.SeeOats

Ifindstore-boughtgranolasomewhatrepulsive:teeth-achinglysweetandteeth-breakinglyhard.Artisanalversionsfromfarmers’marketsandthelikearealittlebetter,butIsimplycan’tjustifytheexpensewhenit’ssoeasytohitthebulkbinsandmix up a huge batch ofmy own slightly sweet and crisp-rather-than-hardversionwithalmostnoeffort.Thereareendlesspossibilities forvarietywithinthefollowingratio:Forevery5cups(800g)rolledoats(thickorthin—doesn’tmatter),useabout1¼cups (280g)nutty/seedyadd-ins,⅓ cup (80ml)oil,⅓cup(65g/80ml)sweetener,andanysortofdriedfruityoulike.Somepeoplesaythatthegranolawillstaycrisplongerifyoukeepthedriedfruitseparateandmixitinjustbeforeserving,butIcan’tsayI’venoticedadifference.

•¼cup(45g)flaxseeds•5cups(800g)rolledoats•½cup(50g)slicedalmonds•¼cup(15g)pepitas•¼cup(35g)sesameseeds•¼cup(20g)shreddedunsweetenedcoconut•¼cup(15g)poppedamaranth(thispage)•½teaspoongroundcinnamon(optional)

•⅓cup(80ml)oliveoil,vegetableoil,oracombination

•⅓cup(80ml)agavenectarormaplesyrup•1teaspoonpurevanillaextract•1cup(225g)driedfruit

Preheattheovento250°F(120°C).Spraya9-by-13-inch(23-by-33-cm)baking

dishwithnonstickcookingsprayorlightlyoilit.

In a food processor or spice grinder, coarsely crack the flaxseeds. In a largebowl, combine the oats, almonds, pepitas, sesame seeds, flax seeds, coconut,amaranth, and cinnamon, if using. In a small bowl, combine the oil, agavenectar, andvanilla extract.Drizzle thewet ingredients into thedry ingredientsandstirtocoat.Scrapethemixtureintothepreparedbakingdish.Bake,turningandstirringoccasionally,untilevenlygoldenbrown,1½to2hours.Transferthedish toawire rackand letcool to room temperature, stirringoccasionally; thegranolawillgetcrispandcrunchyas itcools.Stir in thedried fruitandserve.The granolawill keep in an airtight container (a half-gallon glass canning jarworkswell)atroomtemperatureforatleast3weeks.

VARIATIONS

*Tousehoney(notvegan)orbarleymaltsyrup(notglutenfree)asasweetener,first warm it in a small saucepan over low heat and then stir in the oil andvanilla. To use a nonliquid sweetener like granulated sugar or brown sugar,warmitinasmallsaucepanwith1tablespoonwateruntildissolved.

* Tomake a sweeter granola that holds together in larger lumps, increase thesweetener andoil to½ cup (120ml) each.Youmight alsowish to add a fewtablespoons of oat or other flour to help bind the bits. This is good as an icecreamoryogurttopping—moreofatreatthananevery-morningcereal.

*Tryamixtureofwheatflakes,barleyflakes,ryeflakes,androlledoatsforadeeper-flavored(thoughnotgluten-free)granola.

QUINOABREAKFASTPORRIDGEWITHVANILLAANDALMONDMILK

Serves2|vegan,glutenfree

Ilovethedifferentkindsofcrunchinthisporridge:thetoothsomequalityofthespiraledoutergermofeachquinoagrain,thetinyvanilla-beanseeds,thesweetcrunchofcoarsesugar,andthetoastycrispnessofslicedalmonds.

•1cup(170g)rawquinoa,wellrinsed•3cups(720ml)almondmilk,homemadeifpossible(thispage)•½vanillabean,splitlengthwise•¼cup(25g)driedcranberriesorcherries•2tablespoonsturbinadosugar,ortotaste•2tablespoonsslicedalmonds,toasted

Inaheavy2-quart(2-L)saucepan,combinethequinoaand2cups(480ml)ofthe almondmilk. Scrape in the vanilla bean seeds and add the pods as well.Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the quinoa is tender,about 20 minutes. Stir in the cranberries and cook until softened, about 3minutes. Stir inmost of the sugar and stir until dissolved. Scoop into servingbowls(reservethevanillabeanpods;rinseanddry,thenburyinacontainerofsugar to make vanilla sugar). Serve with the remaining almond milk, thealmonds,andalittlemoresugar.

SPICYSTEEL-CUTOATMEALWITHGARLICCHIPS

Serves2|vegan,glutenfree.SeeOats

I often crave a spicy breakfast—chorizo and egg tacos, skillet-crisped sweetpotatoeswith liberallyappliedCajunspices, leftoverkungpaochicken—and Ialsobelievethatnothingcanbeatabowlofsteel-cutoatmealinthemorning,soImakethismealtosatisfybothcravingsatonce.

Youmight thinkofhot cereal as awintertimedish, aprelude to shovelingout thecaror leapingoverslushlakesinthecrosswalksonyourhiketowork,but this savory version,with crisp scallions, bright cilantro, andvinegary heatfrom the chile paste, is invigorating all year round. If you’d like some(nonvegan)proteininyourbowl,fryanegg(orshreddedcookedchickenorfirmtofu)intheoilleftoverfromfryingthegarlicandsetitontopoftheoatmeal.

•½cup(125g)rawsteel-cutoats•2tablespoonsoliveoil•4clovesgarlic,verythinlysliced•About1tablespoontamari•Chinesechilepaste(sambaloelek)totaste•2scallions,thinlyslicedonabias•2tablespoonschoppedfreshcilantro

In a heavy 1½-to 2-quart (1.4-to 2-L) saucepan, combine the oats and 2 cups(480 ml) water. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer, stirringoccasionally,untilcreamyandtender,about25minutes.

Meanwhile,inasmallsautépan,heattheoilovermedium-highheatandaddthegarlic, tilting thepanso theoil isdeeperat theedgeand thegarlic floatsas itfries.Fry,stirring,untilcrispandgolden,about1minute.Removethegarlictoa

papertoweltodrain.

Spoon the oatmeal into two small bowls.Drizzlewith tamari and dollopwithchile paste. Sprinkle the scallions, cilantro, and garlic chips over the top andserve.

BAKEDOATMEALWITHDRIEDCRANBERRIESServes4to6|glutenfree.SeeOats

BakedoatmealwasarevelationtomethefirsttimeImadeit.Youbasicallyjustmixeverythingtogetherandstickitintheoven;it’stheidealdishtoservewhenyouhavehouseguests(betterthanmakingthatoneomeletorwaffleatatime).By the timeyou’vehadacupofcoffeeandwashedup the twobowlsand thewhisk,breakfastisready.Whilethere’snoflourinthedish,thefinishedtextureislightandcakelike—addsomewhippedcreamoradrizzleofhoney-sweetenedwhisked yogurt, and it could bemistaken for dessert. Or just servewith coldmilkorabitofhalf-and-halfpouredoveritinabowl.

•1tablespoonunsaltedbutter,plusmoreforthepan•2½cups(400g)rawrolledoats•½cup(110g)brownsugar•1½teaspoonsgroundcinnamon•1teaspoonbakingpowder•Pinchofsalt

•⅓cup(35g)driedcranberries•1cup(240ml)milk,plusmoreforservingifdesired•½cup(120ml)plainGreekyogurt•1largeegg•1teaspoonpurevanillaextract

Preheattheovento350°F(175°C).Buttera9-inch(23-cm)squarebakingpan.

Inalargebowl,combinetheoats,brownsugar,cinnamon,bakingpowder,andsalt.Tossinthecranberries.

Inamediumbowl,whisktogetherthemilk,yogurt,egg,andvanilla.Addtothe

oatmixture and stir to combine. Transfer to the prepared pan and dot the topwith thebutter.Bakeuntilgoldenbrownon topandfirmthroughout,25 to30minutes.Scoopportionsintoservingbowlsandservehot.

VARIATIONS

*Useanydriedfruitinsteadofthecranberries.Diceddriedapricots,nectarines,andapplesallworkwell—andwiththese,tryadding1to2tablespoonsmincedcrystallizedginger.

*Use1½cups(360ml)buttermilkinsteadoftheregularmilkandyogurt.

HOTCEREALTOPPINGSANDEMBELLISHMENTSIdeasforExperimentation

EverytimeIhearaboutsomecentenarianorotherwhohassurvivedonthesamebreakfasteverydayforeighty-threeyears(asliceofdrytoast and coffee with cream, perhaps, followed by a cigarette), Icringe. I just cannot imaginea lifeof suchutterdullness.But if thebreakfast in question were nutty, chewy, creamy steel-cut oatmeal,oneofmyabsolutefavoritesandoneofthemosthealthfulbreakfastfoodsknowntoman,andIwereallowedtoputanythingatall inoron top of it, I could certainly handle the repetition. If you enjoyoatmealbutfindyourselfinarut,readonandfallbackinlove.

If you’remaking a savory oatmeal, consider cooking it in goodchickenorbeefbrothinsteadofwaterormilk.Forajook-orcongee-type breakfast, cook it in about twice asmuch liquid, so it remainssoupy,andtopwithshreddedordicedcookedmeat,slicedscallions,fried shallots, chopped peanuts or roasted sesame seeds, and soysauceortamari.

Forfurthervariation,tryusingotherquicker-cookingwholegrainsfor breakfast: Quinoa (this page), soft-cooked amaranth (this page),millet(thispage;stirafewtimeswhilecookingtomakeitsmoother),farro (this page), and cracked wheat (this page) all make excellentbreakfast grains. Long-cooking grains like wheat berries and speltberries(thispage)orfarro(thispage)canbemadeinabigbatchandkeptintherefrigeratororfreezersoyoucanpulloutabitasyouneedit.

INSPIRATIONALCOMBINATIONS

Followingaresomesuper-simpleandhighlyaccessiblewaystoserveoatmeal—classiccombinationssuitableforthosewhosepriorexperiencemightbelimitedbutwho’dliketomoveabitbeyondcinnamonandmilk.Addanydriedfruittotheoatmealwhileit’scooking,foratleastthelastfewminutes,soithastimetosoftenandplumpup,andservewithmilk,almondorricemilk,soymilk,plainyogurt,ornoneoftheabove.

•Driedapples,groundcinnamon,maplesyrup•Driedfigs,honey,toastedpinenuts•Driedapricots,groundcinnamon,toastedslicedorsliveredalmonds•Driedcherries,toastedhazelnuts,shaveddarkchocolate•Crumbledgoatcheeseorcreamcheese,honey,tornfreshbasilormintleaves•Freshslicedpeachesornectarines,groundcardamom,adrizzleofhalf-and-half

•Freshdicedmango,toastedunsweetenedcoconutflakes,rawsugar•Freshbanana,toastedwalnuts,turbinadosugar•Slicedavocado,segmentedorange,toastedpepitas

ASPIRATIONALCOMBINATIONS

Fortheadvancedconnoisseur,thesearesomeofthemostunusualoatmeal-basedconcoctions I’ve come across. I’ve tried each, and I wouldn’t have includedthemhereiftheyweren’ttotallyworthwhile.

•Whiskeyporridge:Demerarasugar,apatofbutter,andasplashofJohnnyWalker Red (apparently a standard offering on the Dubai British expatbrunch circuit) •Jake’s oatmeal: blue cheese and soy sauce (much,muchmoredeliciousthanitsounds;Ialsolikeafewplumpraisinsthrowninastheoatmeal cooks, for a sort of Stilton-and-Port effect) •Chile oatmeal, à laEdwardLee(astoldtoEsquire):driedanchochile(snippedinastheoatsare cooking), almond butter, mashed banana, honey and brown sugar, adrizzle of coconutmilk, cinnamon and paprika, andminced fresh jalapeño•Kedgeree porridge, from aGolden Spurtle championship contestant:oats cookedwith butter-sautéed onion, curry powder, and nutmeg, smokedmackerel,andalittleheavycream,toppedwithhard-cookedeggwedgesandfreshparsley

ADDITIONALTOPPINGSANDSTIR-INS

Mixandmatchaway!MostmorningsIliketochooseavarietyoftoppingswithdifferent texturesandcomplementaryflavors,butsometimesit’scomfort thatIwant(orwantformydaughter)—inthatcase,I’llkeepthingstraditionalandstirinafewbitsofsoftjuicypeachandadrizzleofhoney,leavingthecrunchynutsandseedsforanotherday.

CRUNCHYORCRISP:

•Toastedpepitas,sesameseeds,sunflowerseeds•Slicedorsliveredalmonds•Walnuts,pecans,hazelnuts,cashews•Toastedpinenuts• Popped amaranth (this page) or toasted wheat berries (this page) • Poppyseeds

•Friedthinlyslicedgarlicorshallots•Slicedscallions,tendercilantrostems•Toastedcoconutshavings•PackagedIndiansnackssuchassev(friedchickpea-flourvermicelli),crushedpuri (wheat-flour wafers), boondi (chickpea-or lentil-flour balls) • Granola(thispage)

•Gingersnapcrumbs•Cacaonibs

FRUITY:

•Choppedormashedbanana•Diced,grated,orbutter-sautéedapple• Fresh or frozen strawberries, blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, grapes,choppedpineapple•Pomegranateseedsorpomegranatemolasses

•Orangeorgrapefruitsegments• Dried cranberries, cherries, apricots, apple, papaya, guava, pineapple,currants,raisins,figs,choppeddates•Appleorpearbutter,applesauce

•Pumpkinbutter•Dicedfreshtomatoes

•Tamarind-datechutney(thispage)

CREAMY:

•Milk,half-and-half,buttermilk•Freshsweetorculturedcream,crèmefraîche(thispage),mascarpone,bitsofcreamcheeseorBrie,clottedcream•Shreddedextra-sharpcheddarcheese,crumbledgoatcheeseorbluecheese

•Plainyogurt•Almondmilk(thispage),soymilk,ricemilk•Coconutmilk•Butter•Friedorpoachedegg,orstiraneggintotheoatsasthey’recooking•Slicedormashedavocado•Almondbutter,cashewbutter,naturalpeanutbutter•Leftovercannedpumpkin(freezeinlittlemoundsonasheetofwaxedpaper,thentossinafreezerbagandaddstraighttocerealasitcooks)•Dicedsweetpotato(addatthebeginningofcooking)

SPICY:

•Cinnamon,cardamom,nutmeg,ginger•Chaimasala•Hotorsweetpaprika,smokedpaprika,chilepowder•Curry powder, garammasala, chaatmasala (this page) •Granulated garlic,driedonionflakes

•Freshjalapeñoorserranochiles•Snippeddriedchiles,chipotlechileflakes• Chile paste (sambal oelek) or hot sauce (such as Sriracha, or a habanero-basedsauce)•Mintandcilantrochutney

SWEET:

•Honey,agavenectar,maplesyrup,canesyrup,sorghumsyrup,goldensyrup,maltedbarleysyrup•Demerara,turbinado,orothercoarserawsugar

•Brownsugar•Vanillasugarorafewdropsofpurevanillaextract•Jamorpreserves

•Marmalade•Sorghum-plumcompote(thispage)•Applecider•Darkchocolatechips

OTHERENRICHMENTS,HEALTHFULANDNOTSOMUCH:

•Crushedorgroundflaxseeds•Chiaseeds,hempseeds•Toastedwheatgerm•Wheatbran•Crumbledbacon,crispedbraisedporkbelly,pan-friedcountryham•Whiskey,Scotch•Amaretto

Fromleft:Rolledoats,vanillabean,driedcherries;steel-cutoats,bluecheese,figpreserves;millet,cardamom,dates,orangesegments,honey

Fromleft:Steel-cutoats,lox,creamcheese,scallions;steel-cutoats,gjetostcheese,darkmuscovadosugar,crushedpistachios;steel-cutoats,roastedandcrispedporkbelly,crackedblackpepper,toastedsesameseeds,scallions,maple

syrup

Fromleft:Rolledoats,smooshedbanana,toastedcoconut,agavenectar,rawcacaobeans;steel-cutoats,driedgooseberries,pecans,cinnamon,sourwoodhoney;steel-cutoats,friedegg,oliveoil–friedgarlicchips,cilantro,soysauce,sambaloelek

Fromleft:Rolledoats,driedmango,almondbutter,avocado,coconutmilk,honey;steel-cutoats,countryham,figsyrup,poppedsorghum;steel-cutoats,peach,basil,darkmuscovadosugar

POPPEDAMARANTHANDTOASTEDWHEATBERRYFOOLServes3to4|vegetarian

Here, tiny puffs of amaranth and crunchy, nutty toasted wheat berries aresuspended in lightly sweetened, tangywhipped cream and yogurt, along withwhatever fresh fruityouhaveonhand.Serve it as a specialbreakfast treat, oraddalittlemoresugarandcallitdessert.

•¼cup(45g)rawwheatberries•¼cup(50g)rawamaranth•1cup(240ml)heavycream•Sugarorvanillasugartotaste(about1½teaspoons)•1cup(240ml)plainyogurt• 1½ cups (340 g) fresh berries, pitted cherries, or diced cantaloupe orhoneydewmelon

Heat a small, heavy stainless-steel sauté pan over high heat. Add the wheatberriesandcook,shakingthepanfrequently,untiltheycrackleandswellupandarejuststartingtocolor,about2minutes.Removetoabowl.

To the samepanoverhighheat, addhalfof theamaranth, cover immediately,andcookuntilthegrainsareallpopped,nolongerthan30seconds.Immediatelydump them in the bowlwith thewheat berries and repeatwith the remainingamaranth.Tosstocombinethegrains,thendividethemamongservingbowls.

Whipthecreamwithabout¾teaspoonsugaruntilsoftpeaksform.Inaseparatebowl, whisk the yogurt together with about ¾ teaspoon sugar until smooth.Gently fold the cream into theyogurt, thendollop themixtureonto thegrainsand cover the topwith fruit. Serve, or gently fold the grains, cream, and fruittogetherbeforeserving.

FLUFFYBUCKWHEATPANCAKESMakesabout12(4-inch/10-cm)pancakes;serves3to4|vegetarian,glutenfree

Buckwheatpancakesareastone-coldclassic,butthey’reoftenheavyandalittletoobuckwheaty formy taste, so I cut thebuckwheat flourwithneutral brownriceflourtolightenthem.Foldingbeateneggwhiteintothebattermakesthesetotallywholegrainpancakesbeautifullyfluffy,butdon’tthinkyouhavetohaulout theelectricmixer first thing in themorning: It’s justoneeggwhite,and itcaneasilybewhippedtoafoaminasmallbowlwithawhisk.Youcouldalso,ofcourse,skiptheegg-separatingaltogether;thepancakeswillstillbedelicious,justabitdenser.Servethemwithmaplesyruporrunnysourcherrypreserves,ormake tiny pancakes and serve themblini style,with salty lox and a dollop ofsourcreamorcrèmefraîche(andaglassofChampagne).

•½cup(65g)buckwheatflour•½cup(70g)extra-finebrownriceflour•½teaspoonbakingpowder•¼teaspoonbakingsoda•¼teaspoonsalt•1largeegg,separated•About¾cup(180ml)milk•1tablespoonunsaltedbutter,melted,oroliveoil,plusmoreforthepan•½tablespoonagavenectarormaplesyrup

Preheat theoven to250°F(120°C).Lineabakingsheetwithaluminumfoilorparchmentpaper.

Inalargebowl,whisktogethertheflours,bakingpowder,bakingsoda,andsalt.Put the eggwhite in a small bowl andwhisk until brightwhite and foamy—there’snoneedforit tobestiff; justwhiskasenthusiasticallyasyoucanfora

minute.Puttheeggyolkinaglassmeasuringcup,addmilktomake1cup(240ml),addthemeltedbutterandagavenectar,andwhisk.

Pour themilkmixture into the flourmixture and stirwith a spatula until justcombined;itwillbealittlelumpy.Foldintheeggwhite.

Meltsomebutterinaheavyskilletorgriddleovermediumheat.Ladleinscant¼-cupfuls (60-ml measures) of batter. Cook until dry at the edges and wellbrownedonthebottom,about1½minutes,thenflipandcooktheothersideuntildone.Transfertoaplateinthewarmovenandrepeatwiththeremainingbatter.Servehot.

VARIATIONS

* To make these pancakes vegan: Use a nondairy milk such as soymilk oralmondmilk.Omittheegganduseflaxinstead:Grind1tablespoonflaxseedstoapowderandwhiskwith¼cup(60ml)water;addtotheflourmixturewiththemilkmixture.Useoliveoilinsteadofbutter.

*Usewhitewholewheatflour(notglutenfree)insteadofthebrownriceflour.

* Right after you ladle the batter into the skillet, sprinkle the pancakes withchoppedpecans.

CORNMEALPANCAKESWITHSORGHUM-PLUMCOMPOTE

Makesabout24smallpancakesand1quart(960ml)compote;serves4to6|vegetarian,glutenfreeSorghumsyrup,madefromthesorghumgrain(seethis

page),isaSouthernstaple,butitcanbealittlehardtofindevenhereinGeorgia.Ithasadark,almostbitteredgethatgoesparticularlywellwithtartblack-

skinned,red-fleshedplums,butfeelfreetouseamilderfruit(likepeachesornectarines)andsubstitutemaplesyrup,goldensyrup(suchasLyle’s,theBritish

import),agavenectar,orhoney.

FORTHECOMPOTE

•1pound(455g)plums,pittedanddiced•¼cup(60ml)sorghumsyrup,ormoretotaste•1tablespoonfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

FORTHEPANCAKES

•1¼cups(200g)rawfine-grindcornmeal•¾teaspoonsalt•1teaspoonsugar•1teaspoonbakingpowder• 1 cup (240 ml) buttermilk or plain yogurt thinned with water to theconsistencyofbuttermilk

•2largeeggs,beaten•Unsaltedbutterforthepan

MAKETHECOMPOTE

In a heavy 2-quart (2-L) saucepan, combine the plums, sorghum syrup, andlemonjuice.Bringtoaboil,stirringfrequently,thenlowertheheatandsimmerbriskly until the plums are very soft andbrokendown, 20 to 30minutes.Thecompotewillkeep,covered,inacleanglassjarintherefrigeratorforatleast3

weeks.Reheatbeforeserving,ifdesired.

MAKETHEPANCAKES

Sift thecornmeal, salt, sugar,andbakingpowder intoa largebowl.Stir in thebuttermilkandeggs.

Inalargesautépanoronagriddle,meltalittlebutterovermedium-highheat.Whenthefoamdiesdown,workinginbatches,spoonin¼-cup(60-ml)puddlesof the batter. Cook without disturbing until you can see that the edges arebrownedandbubblesappearatthecenterofthepancake,about2minutes;useametal spatula to turn and cook the other side until browned, about 2minutes.Serve immediately with the compote, or cover loosely with aluminum foil tokeepwarmwhileyoumeltalittlemorebutterandcooktheremainingpancakes.

BUTTERMILKOATCAKESMakesabout15cakes|vegetarian,glutenfree.SeeOats

Notreallyliketraditionalpancakes,thesearetoothsome,nutty,andhearty“pancakes”thatwouldmakeagoodwinterbreakfastbeforealonghikeinthewoods,orcarriedalongonapredawnouting.Cooledandwrappedinplastic(orthrownin a sandwichbag), they canbekept in the refrigerator for several days to bewarmed up in a warm skillet or a toaster oven (or eaten cold or at roomtemperature out of a lunch box); they can also be frozen in a freezer bag forseveralmonths.

•1½cups(360ml)milkorwater•2½cups(400g)rawrolledoats•½cup(120ml)buttermilk•2largeeggs•2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,melted,plusmoreforthepan•1tablespoonagavenectarorhoney•1teaspoonpurevanillaextract•½teaspoonsalt•2teaspoonsbakingpowder

Inasmallheavysaucepan,combine themilkand1½cups(240g) rolledoats.Bringtoasimmerovermediumheatandcook,stirringfrequently,untiltheoatsare tender and the mixture is very thick (when you drag a heatproof spatulaalongthebottomofthepan,noliquidshouldshowattheedgeofitspath),3to8minutesdependingonthethicknessoftheoats.Letcooltolukewarm.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, stir together the buttermilk, eggs, butter, agavenectar,andvanilla.Inablenderorsmallfoodprocessor,combinetheremaining1cup(160g)ofoats,thesalt,andbakingpowderandblendtoafineflour.Stir

thecookedandcooledoatmeal into thebuttermilkmixture, thenstir in theoatflourmixtureuntilthoroughlyincorporated.

Preheattheovento250°F(120°C).Lineabakingsheetwithfoilorparchmentpaper.

Ona largegriddleor ina largewell-seasonedskillet,meltabitofbutterovermedium heat. Ladle in ¼-cupfuls (60-ml measures) of batter and cook untilbubblesappearonthesurface,4to5minutes,thenflipandcookuntiltheotherside is browned, 4 to 5minutes; lower the heat if the cakes are browning tooquickly.Transfertothebakingsheetandkeepwarmintheovenwhileyoucooktherestofthebatter,addingmorebuttertothegriddleifneeded.Servewarm.

VARIATIONS

* To make apple or pear oat cakes: Core and dice 2 small apples or pears(peeling is optional) and cook them in 1 tablespoon unsalted butter in a largesauté pan overmedium heat, stirring frequently, until golden brown and soft,about 10 minutes. Let cool, then stir the fruit into the batter, along with ½teaspoongroundcinnamon.

*Gentlyfoldabout1cup(150g)pittedanddicedpeaches,plums,ornectarinesinto the batter. You could also use fresh or frozen (not thawed) blueberries,raspberries,blackberries,ordicedstrawberries.

* Add 1 cup (150 g) diced banana and 3 tablespoons shredded unsweetenedcoconuttothebatter,alongwith1tablespooncoarselygroundflaxseeds.

* Instead of making oat flour in a blender, replace those extra oats with anywhole grain flour—wheat, buckwheat, rye, quinoa, amaranth, teff, brown rice,whatever—and justwhisk itwith thebakingpowder and salt before adding tothebatter.

WALNUTWAFFLESMakes3or4Belgianwaffles,ormorethinwaffles;serves3or4|vegetarian,

glutenfreeMydaughter,Thalia,whoatfivewholeyearsknowshersweettreats,eatswedgesofthesewafflesstraightoutofthefreezer,frostandall,andindeedtheyfreezeverywell.Ifyou’remorediscerningthanakindergartner,andyou

shouldbe,putfrozenwafflesonabakingsheetandheatat350°F(175°C)for15minutes,orpoptheminatoaster.Thesearedark,crisp,andsodeeplyflavorful

(andfilling)youmightwant,asThaliadoes,toforgotoppingsaltogether.

Beating the eggwhites togetherwith the sugar is a trick I learned from aPamelaAnderson recipe inFineCooking. The technique not only strengthensthebatter’sstructuresoitdoesn’tcollapsewhileyoucookonewaffleatatime;italsohelpsmakethewafflesniceandcrisp.Becausethebatterissosturdy,youcandoublethisrecipeifyou’dlike.Justbesureyouhaveaverylargebowlinwhichtofoldalltheelementstogether.

•2largeeggs,separated•¼cup(50g)sugar•3tablespoonslightmolasses•1½cups(360ml)milk• ½ cup (1 stick / 110 g) unsalted butter, melted and cooled for a fewminutes,orvegetableoil

•1cup(100g)rawquinoaflakesorquinoaflour•1cup(130g)buckwheatflour•¼cup(30g)cornstarch•2teaspoonsbakingpowder•Pinchofsalt•½cup(60g)walnuts

Preheattheovento200°F(90°C)andputacoolingrackonabakingsheetintheoven.Preheatawaffleiron;lightlygreasetheironifnecessary.

In a medium bowl, with a whisk or a handheld electric mixer, beat the eggwhitesandsugaruntilthick,glossy,andbrightwhite.

Put the eggyolks in a largebowl andwhisk in themolasses,milk, andbutteruntilsmooth.

In a mini food processor or blender, put the quinoa flakes, buckwheat flour,cornstarch,bakingpowder,salt,andwalnutsandpulsetocombineandchopthewalnuts. Add to the egg-yolk mixture and stir with a rubber spatula to justcombine—the batter will be lumpy. Quickly and gently fold in the egg-whitemixture.Scoop¾to1cup(180to240ml)ofthebatterontothehotwaffleiron,close,andcookaccordingtothemanufacturer’sinstructions,oruntil thesteamissuingfromthesidesdissipates.Removethewaffletotherackintheovenandrepeatwiththeremainingbatter.Servehot.

VARIATIONS

* For malted whole wheat waffles (not gluten free): Omit the walnuts andreplace themolasseswith 2 tablespoonsmalted barley syrup;warm the syrupwiththemeltedbuttertosoftenitbeforeattemptingtowhiskitintotheeggyolkandmilk.

*Insteadofquinoaflakesandbuckwheatflour,use2cups(225g)wholewheatflour,or1cup(200g)quinoaflourand1cup(115g)wholewheatflour.

BUCKWHEATCRÊPESFILLEDWITHBUTTEREDFRUITANDSWEETRICOTTA

Makesabout24(6-inch/15-cm)crêpes|vegetarian

These simple-to-makewhole grain crêpes are perfect for serving to company.The batter needs to bemade at least 2 hours in advance so the flour granuleshavetimetoabsorbsomeoftheliquid,butyoucandothisthenightbefore.Youcaneven fill thecrêpes andput thepackets (shaped likeblintzes)onabakingsheet,coverthemwithplastic,andrefrigerateforseveralhoursbeforewarmingthemintheovenfor20minutes.Freezehalfoftheplaincrêpesforanothertime(the recipemakes double the amount needed for the filling), or, for a crowd,servesomeofthecrêpesfilledwiththissweetfillingandsomewiththesavoryham-and-cheese variation on this page. These are quite versatile; use yourimagination.

FORTHECRÊPES

•1cup(130g)buckwheatflour•½cup(70g)whitewholewheatflour•½teaspoonsalt•1½(360ml)cupsmilk•3tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,melted,orvegetableoil•3largeeggs

FORTHEFILLING(FORABOUT12CRÊPES)

•15ounces(425g)ricotta(about1½cups)•3tablespoonsagavenectarorhoney•½teaspoongroundcardamom•2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,plus1tablespoonsoftenedbutter•2cups(285g)thinlyslicednectarines,apricots,plums,orpeaches•1teaspoonsugar

MAKETHECRÊPES

Inalargebowl,whiskalltheingredientstogetheruntilverysmoothandtransferto a 4-cup (960-ml) measuring cup. (Alternatively, blend them in a blender.)Refrigeratethebatterforatleast2hoursorovernight.Thebattershouldbetheconsistencyofheavycream;thinitwithalittlewaterifnecessary.

Heat a well-seasoned 9-inch (23-cm) crêpe pan or nonstick sauté pan overmediumheat.Pourabout3tablespoonsofthebatterintothecenterofthepan,tiltingthepantospreadthebatterintoathinround.Cookfor1minute,oruntilthecrêpeislightlybrownedonthebottomandtheedgesbegintoliftfromthepan, then flip and cook the other side for 30 seconds. Remove to a piece ofwaxedpaper and repeatwith the remainingbatter.The crêpes canbe stacked,slipped intoagallon-size (3.8-L) freezerbag, andkept forup to3days in therefrigerator or up to1month in the freezer (thawovernight in the refrigeratorbeforeusing).

FILLANDWARMTHECRÊPES

Preheattheovento400°F(205°C).Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.Ina medium bowl, whisk together the ricotta, agave nectar, and cardamom; setaside.

Inalargesautépan,meltthe2tablespoonsbutterovermediumheatandaddthenectarines.Cook,stirringfrequently,untiljusttender,about5minutes.

Lay6crêpes,prettysidedown,onthecounterandspreadthecenterofeachwithsomeof the ricottamixture, then topwith someof the nectarines. Fold in thesidestocoverthefilling,thenfoldthebottomuptothecenterofthecrêpe,thenfoldthetopdownoverthecentertomakealittlesquarepackage.Arrangeseamsidedownonthepreparedbakingsheet.Repeatwiththeremaining6crêpesandfilling. Spread the tops of the crêpe packages with the softened butter andsprinklewithsugar.Bakefor15minutesandserve.

VARIATIONS

* For a savory ham-and-cheese filling: Blanch 8 cups (240 g) fresh spinachleaves in 1 inch (2.5 cm) boilingwater for 1minute, drain, and squeeze dry.Chop and season with salt and pepper. Spread each crêpe with about ½tablespoon Nicole’s Spicy Tomato Chutney (this page) or other tart-sweet

preserve,topwithshreddedGruyèreorSwisscheese(about¾cup/115gtotal),and coverwith a slice of good-qualityBlackForest ham.Fold up, brushwithbutter(omitthesugartopping),andbakeuntilheatedthrough.

*Foradosa-stylecurriedpotatofilling(for6meal-sizecrêpes):Whisk¼cup(60ml)plainGreekyogurt,½teaspoonturmeric,½teaspoongroundcoriander,1teaspoongratedfreshginger,and1mincedhotgreenchiletogether;setaside.Inalargeheavyskilletorsautépan,heat2tablespoonsoliveoiluntilhot,thenadd1teaspooncuminseeds,3cups(480g)choppedcookedpotatoes,and1(15-ounce/430-g)canchickpeas(drainedandrinsed).Cookovermediumheatuntilthe potatoes and chickpeas are heated through, then stir in the yogurtmixtureandaddsalttotaste;cookfor2minutes,stirringconstantly.Fillthecrêpeswiththemixture (no need towarm the crêpes first, and no need towrap up like apackage—justfillthemliketacos)andtopwithmoreplainyogurt,½cup(10g)tornfreshcilantro,andthinlyslicedhotgreenchile,ifdesired.

GRITSWITHQUICKHOMEMADESAUSAGEANDCRISPEDSAGE

Serves4|glutenfree

Aneggor a fluffybiscuitwouldnotbeoutofplacenext to a littlemoundofthese savory sausage grits, and if a little syrup from the biscuit—maple orsorghum,dependingonwhereinthecountryyouare—happenedtoseepintothegrits’personalspace,well,somuchthebetter.

•Salt•½cup(80g)rawcorngritsorhominygrits•2tablespoonsoliveoil•12freshsageleaves

•⅓pound(150g)QuickHomemadeSausage(seebelow)•Freshlygroundblackpeppertotaste

Inaheavy2-quart(2-L)saucepan,bring3cups(720ml)waterandapinchofsalttoaboil.Gradually,1tablespoonatatime,addthegrits,stirringconstantly.Cookuntilthegritsarethickandeachgrainistender,15to20minutes,stirringfrequently(especiallytowardtheendofthecooking)andturningdowntheheattomedium-lowwhenthegritsstarttobubbleandplopoutofthepan.

Meanwhile, ina largesautépanorskillet,heat theoilovermedium-highheat.Addthesageandcookuntilcrispandjuststartingtocolor,about1minute,thenremovewithaslottedspoontoapapertoweltodrain.Returnthepanandoiltothe heat and add the sausage. Cook, breaking up themeat into pieces with aspatula,untilwellbrownedandcooked through,5 to6minutes.Drainoffanyexcess fat if necessary, then return the pan to the heat and add about 2tablespoonswater.Stirtoscrapeupthebrownedbits,thenremovefromtheheatandsetaside.

Whenthegritsaretender,scrapethesausageintothem.Cookuntil justheatedthrough,about1minute, thenseasonwithsaltandpepper to taste.Spoonontoplates or into a serving bowl and scatter the sage over the top. Grind somepepperontopifdesired,andserve.

QUICKHOMEMADESAUSAGE

Makes1⅓pounds(600g)|glutenfree

•1⅓pounds(600g)groundturkey(nottoolean)orpork•1clovegarlic,grated•¾teaspoonsalt•½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper•1teaspoonmincedfreshsage•1teaspoonmincedfreshmarjoram(optional)•1teaspoonmaplesyruporbrownsugar

Combinealltheingredientsinalargebowlandbeatvigorouslywitharubber spatula or wooden spoon until thoroughly combined, sticky,and sort of emulsified. Divide into four⅓-pound (150-g) portions,wrap each tightly in plastic wrap, and put in a resealable plasticfreezerbagandrefrigerateorfreezeuntilneeded.Thesausagecanberefrigeratedforupto2days,orfrozenforat least1month(thawintherefrigeratorbeforeusing).

DAVE’SGOETTA(CINCINNATI-STYLEPORKLOAFWITHPINHEADOATS)

Makes1largeloafor4miniloaves;servesdozens|glutenfree.SeeOats

Goetta (“GET-uh”) is one of those only-in-Cincinnati dishes, like cinnamon-spicedchiliontopofspaghetti,thatyoujustwillnotseeanywhereelse(unlessyou travel theMidwest or cook fromcookbooksbyme).Myhusband,Derek,and our endlessly game daughter, Thalia, and I had it for the first time on asplendidfall roadtrip(Georgia–NewYork–NewOrleans–Georgia),atadown-at-the-heels but incredibly welcoming breakfast counter in Over-the-Rhine,Cincinnati,calledTucker’s.Goettaismuchlikemyfamily’sbelovedcornmeal-basedporkloaf,paanhass(andDerek’sfamily’sbelovedscrapple),buthasnooffal and is made with pinhead or steel-cut oats rather than cornmeal andbuckwheatflour.Theoatsfirmupsotheloafcanbethinlyslicedandpan-frieduntilcrisp-crunchy.Goaheadandmakethewholebatchandwrapupandfreezewhatyoudon’tuse.Thisrecipeisfrommydad.

• 1 pound (455 g) Quick Homemade Sausage or 1 pound (455 g) bulkbreakfastsausage

•1largeonion,diced(about2cups/320g)•1ribcelerywithleaves,finelydiced•1bayleaf•2cups(360g)rawpinhead(Scottish)oatsorsteel-cutoats•1½teaspoonssalt,ormoretotaste•2teaspoonsfreshlygroundblackpepper•Bacongrease,butter,oroliveorvegetableoilforfrying•Maplesyrupforserving(optional)

Put5cups(1.2L)ofwaterinalargeheavypotorDutchoven.Addthesausagein littlechickpea-sizebits, thenadd theonion,celery,andbay leaf.Bring toa

boil,thenlowertheheatandsimmerfor10minutes,breakingthesausagebitsupwithaspoon.Addtheoats,salt,andpepper,bringtoaboil,thenlowertheheatandcook,stirringfrequently,for50minutes.Theoatswillbeverysoftandverythick,andthey’llstarttosticktothebottomofthepan;don’tworryaboutthat,justkeepstirringfrequently,andlowertheheatifnecessarytokeepthemixturefromburning.Tasteandseasonwithmoresaltifnecessary.

Spoonthemixtureinto1largeor4miniloafpansandsmooththetop.Letcoolto room temperature, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm,about 2 hours. (Thegoetta can be kept in the refrigerator for up to 4 days; tofreeze,turntheloafoutontoalargepieceofplasticwrapandwraptightly,thenputtheloafinafreezerbag,suckouttheexcessair,seal,andfreezeforupto6months.Thawintherefrigeratorbeforeslicingandfrying.Youcancuttheloafinto3or4sectionsforeasierfreezingandthawing,ifyoulike.)Turnthegoettaloaf out onto a cutting board and cut it into¼-inch-thick (6-mm-thick) slabs.Heatalittlebacongreaseonalargegriddleorinalargesautépanorskilletovermediumheat.Whenit’shot,addafewslicesofthegoettaandcookuntilnicelybrowned, at least 5minutes on each side.Servehot,withmaple syrup, if youlike.

TEFFUPMA(SPICYINDIANMUSH)Serves2or3|vegan,glutenfree

My friend and cookbook author Leda Scheintaub introduced me to a southIndianwayofcookingsojiafewyearsago,andbreakfasthasn’tbeenthesameformesince.Usuallythisdishismadewithrefinedwheatfarina(labeledsojiorravainIndiangrocerystores;it’sbasicallyCreamofWheatcereal),butit’sjustas good or better made with whole teff grains, whole wheat farina, or evencrackedwholewheat that’sbeengrounda little finer ina spicemill.This is aspicy,intenselyaromatic,fillingdish.Iliketomakeitextremelyhotandserveitwithadollopofcoolingplainyogurtora tallcucumbersmoothie.Freshcurryleaves(Murrayakoenigii,orsweetneem)areavailableatIndianandsomeAsiangrocerystores.

•1tablespoonoliveorcanolaoil•1onion,diced•1freshhotredorgreenchile,seededanddiced,ormoreifyouwant ithotter

• 1 teaspoon ginger-garlic paste (see Note) or minced fresh ginger andgarlic

•10freshcurryleaves•1teaspoonbrownmustardseeds•1teaspooncurrypower•¼teaspoongroundcayenne•2driedredchiles(optional)•½teaspoonsalt,ormoretotaste•¾cup(150g)rawteff

Inalargesautépan,heattheoilovermedium-highheat.Addtheonionandfreshchileandcook,stirringfrequently,untilwellbrownedandcaramelized,about8

minutes.Addtheginger-garlicpasteandcook,stirring,for30seconds.Addthecurry leaves,mustard seeds, currypowder, cayenne,driedchiles, ifusing, andsaltandcook,stirring,for15seconds.

Addtheteffand2½cups(570ml)waterandbringtoaboil,stirringconstantly.Lower the heat and simmer about 20 minutes, continuing to stir frequently,especially toward theend, tokeep themixture fromsticking;adda littlemorewaterifnecessary.Whenit’sdone,itshouldbeverythick—notporridgy,almostsolid—andwillholditsshape.Tasteandaddmoresaltifnecessary.Servehot.

VARIATION

*Insteadofteff,useamaranth,orforacoupleofnot-gluten-freeoptions,1cup(180g)wholewheatfarina,or1cup(160g)crackedwheatthathasbeengroundmorefinelyinaspicemill.Add½teaspoonturmericwiththerestofthespices.Forfarinaorcrackedwheat,reducethesimmeringtimetoabout10minutes.

NOTE:Tomakeginger-garlicpaste,combinetwopartschoppedgingerandone part chopped garlic in a mini food processor, adding only as muchwaterasyouneedtoprocesstoafinelygroundbutdry-ishpaste.

HUEVOSRANCHEROSWITHGRIDDLEDCORNMEAL

Serves2or3|vegetarian,glutenfree

Cornmeal huevos rancherosmay be as good an excuse as you’ll ever need tohost a brunch.Most of the elements can be prepared well in advance, so allyou’llhavetodoatthelastminuteisreheat,fryuptheeggs,andputeverythingonplates—or,ofcourse,youcanjustsetoutbigbowlsofblackbeansandsalsa,and a warm platter of cornmeal squares and have guests assemble their ownbreakfasts.

FORTHEBEANS

•1tablespoonoliveorvegetableoil•½largeonion,diced•1clovegarlic,minced•1bayleaf•Generouspinchofgroundcayenne•1pound(455g)driedblackbeans,rinsed•2teaspoonssalt

FORTHESALSA

•1½pounds(680g)ripetomatoes(about3large),diced•1smallsweetonion,diced•2hotgreenchiles,seededandminced•½bunchfreshcilantro,chopped•Juiceof1to2limes•Salttotaste

FORTHECORNMEAL

•1cup(160g)rawcornmeal(anykind),cookedandspreadinanoiled9-inch (23-cm) square pan, refrigerated until cooled and solidified (thispage)

•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper•2tablespoonsoliveorvegetableoil

TOSERVE

•2tablespoonsoliveorvegetableoil•6largeeggs•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper•Limewedges

MAKETHEBEANS

Inalarge,heavypotorDutchoven,heattheoilovermedium-highheat.Addtheonion and garlic and cook, stirring frequently, until the onion is translucent,about 5minutes.Add the bay leaf, cayenne, beans, and 6 cups (1.4L)water.Coverandbringtoaboil,thenlowertheheatandsimmerfor45minutes.Addthesalt,thencookuntilthebeansaretenderbutstillholdtheirshape,about30minuteslonger.Withaslottedspoon,remove1½cups(330g)ofthebeanstoasealable container; refrigerate or freeze for another use (for example, in theburgersonthispage).Removeanddiscardsomeoftheremainingcookingliquidfromthepotandcrushsomeofthebeanstothickenthemixture(orhititwithanimmersionblenderforafewseconds).Coverandkeepwarm.

MAKETHESALSA

While the beans are cooking, in a large bowl, combine the tomatoes, onion,chiles, and cilantro, and add lime juice and salt to taste. Let stand at roomtemperaturefor1hour,thentasteandseasonagain.

MAKETHEGRIDDLEDCORNMEAL

Preheattheovento250°F(120°C).Lineabakingsheetwithpapertowels.

Cutthecooledcornmealinto12squaresandsprinklewithsaltandpepper.Inalarge sauté pan, heat a little of the oil over medium-high heat. Working inbatches,addthecornmealsquaresandcookwithoutdisturbinguntilyoucanseethat theyarebrownedat theedges,5 to7minutes.Usingametalspatula, turn

themoverandcookuntil thesecondside isbrowned.Transfer to thepreparedbakingsheetandkeepwarmintheoven.

ASSEMBLETHEHUEVOSRANCHEROS

Wipeoutthepanandaddalittlemoreoiltoit.Placeovermedium-lowheatandcrackintheeggs.Sprinklewithsaltandpepper,thencookuntiltheeggsarethewayyoulikethem(partlycoverthepanforsunny-sideup;flipforovereasyormedium).Arrangethecornmealsquaresonservingplatesandspoonsomeofthebeansoverthem.Topeachservingwithanegg,andtoptheeggwithsalsa.

KINCHE(ETHIOPIANCRACKEDWHEAT)WITHSPICEDBUTTERANDFRESHTOMATOES

Serves4|vegetarian

MydaughterandourfriendandIhadthemostamazingbreakfastatarestaurantintheEthiopianneighborhoodnearDecatur,Georgia, lastsummer.Amongtheother offerings piled on the injera in front of us—eggs soft-scrambled withtomatoesandgreenchiles,berbere-spicedshardsoftornFrenchbread,beeftibs(lightlystewedcubesoftenderbeef)—wasamoundofmild,comforting,butterycrackedwheat. If youwantmore heat, add½ teaspoon of berbere spice (thispage)to¼cup(25g)ofsambaloelekandservealongside.

•4tablespoons(55g)NiterQibe(spicedbutter;seerecipebelow)•1largesweetonion,sliced•2plumtomatoes,diced•Salt•1½cups(240g)rawcrackedwheat•Scrambledeggsforserving(optional)•1recipeInjera(thispage),forserving(optional)

Inalargesautépan,heat3tablespoonsofthespicedbutterovermediumheat.Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until well browned andcaramelized, about20minutes.Add the tomatoes anda couplepinchesof saltandcookuntilsoft,about5minutes.

Meanwhile,inaheavy2-quart(2-L)saucepan,heattheremaining1tablespoonof spiced butter and add the crackedwheat; cook overmedium heat, stirring,untilfragrant,about2minutes.Add2cups(480ml)waterand1teaspoonsalt.Cover,bringtoaboil,thenlowertheheatandsimmeruntilthewaterisabsorbedandthecrackedwheatistender,about10minutes.Dumpthecrackedwheatinto

thepanwiththeonionmixtureandgentlyfoldalltheingredientstogetherwithaspatula over medium-high heat until heated through and well combined. Addmoresalttotasteifneeded.Servehotwithscrambledeggsandinjera,ifdesired.

NITERQIBE(SPICEDBUTTER)

Makesabout¾cup(170g)|vegetarian

•1cup(2sticks/225g)unsaltedbutter(seeNote)•4greencardamompods,lightlycrushed•1teaspoonfenugreekseeds•½teaspooncuminseeds

•⅛teaspoonturmeric•1teaspoonmincedfreshginger•1clovegarlic,minced•¼smallonion,diced

NOTE:Vegansmayfeelfreetosubstitutemargarineorevenvegetableoilandskiptheskimmingandstraining.

Put all the ingredients in a heavy saucepan and cook over lowheatuntil the butter is no longer bubbling, whichmeans that the excesswaterhascookedout,about1hour.Skimoffanddiscardthefoamonthesurface,thenpourtheclearbutterthroughafine-meshsieveintoaclean container, leaving the milky solids at the bottom behind.Discard the solids in the sieve. The butter can be made weeks inadvanceandrefrigeratedorfrozeninairtightcontainers.Itwillkeepforatleast6monthsintherefrigerator,andIsupposeindefinitelyinthefreezer.

YAMKAI(THAIEGGS)WITHLEFTOVERGRAINS

Serves2|glutenfree

Thai-styleeggs,mostcommonlymadewithsoftenedglassnoodlesratherthanawhole grain, are incredibly versatile, appealing to me as a quick but fun andsatisfyingbreakfastorlunchorsupperbecauseIusuallyhaveeverythingIneedonhand.Infact,everytimeImakethis—andImakeitoften—I’mamazedthatsuchadishessentiallyjustcameoutofmyfridge.It’seveneasierifyouhavealittlebagofcookedriceorothergrainsinthefreezer:Justbreakoffachunk,putit in a sieve, and rinseunder coolwateruntil thegrains separate. If youdon’thave fish sauce, you canuse1 tablespoon soy sauce instead, and if youdon’thavechilepaste,useacouplegoodpinchesofcrushedredchiles.

Theonesecrettogoodyamkai,inmyexperience,isthatyoumustcooktheshallotsuntilthey’realmostburned.Andthemoreofthemyouuse,thebetter—asmanyasyoucanstandtopeelandsliceinthemorningasyoudownyourfirstcupofcoffee;fourismylimit.

•1½tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlimejuice(from½lime)•1½tablespoonsfishsauce•1½teaspoonschilepaste(sambaloelek),ortotaste•1cup(190g)cookedbarley(thispage),sorghum(thispage),quinoa(thispage),millet(thispage),orbrownrice(thispage),cooled

•4largeeggs•1tablespoonvegetableoil•4shallots,thinlysliced• 4 scallions, cut into 2-inch (5-cm) lengths, green and white partsseparated

• 1 leftover cooked pork chop,meat removed from the bone and thinlysliced(optional)

Inamediumbowl,stirtogetherthelimejuice,fishsauce,1teaspoonofthechilepaste,andthecookedgrainofyourchoice;setaside.

Put theeggsand the remaining½ teaspoonofchilepaste ina smallbowlandbeatwithaforktocombine;setaside.

Inalargeheavysautépan,heat½tablespoonoftheoilovermedium-highheat.Addtheshallots,thewhitesectionsofthescallions,andthepork,ifusing,andcook,stirringoccasionally,untiltheshallotsareverydarkbrownandshriveled,about4minutes.Addthescalliongreensandtheremaining½tablespoonofoilandcookfor1minute.Pourintheeggmixtureandcookwithoutdisturbingfor30seconds,thenturnandstir,breakingitupalittlebutkeepinggood-sizepiecestogether,cookinguntiljustset,about45seconds.Pourinthegrainmixtureandcook,turningwithaspatula,untilheatedthrough,about1minute.Serve.

CEREALBARSWITHYOGURTMakes8largebars|vegetarian,glutenfree.SeeOats

Some days you need to just pull something out of the fridge and run out thedoor; these soft, not-too-sweet bars are a satisfying substitute for a sit-downbreakfast. They boast all the goodness of whole grains, of course, but alsoprovide protein, an important but often overlooked component in a morningmeal,fromthecustardyeggandyogurttopping,thenuts,andthequinoaflakes.

•¼cup(½stick/55g)unsaltedbutter,melted,plusmoreforthepan•1¾cups(280g)rawrolledoats•1cup(100g)rawquinoaflakesor1½cups(25g)puffedmillet•½teaspoongroundcinnamon•Pinchofsalt

•⅓cup(75g)packedbrownsugar•¾cup(185g)unsweetenedapplesauce•1cup(240ml)plainGreekyogurt•1largeegg• ¼ cup (60 ml) honey, agave nectar, fruit preserves, jam, or othersweetener

•½cup(55g)finelychoppednuts

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Lightly butter a 9-inch (23-cm) squarebakingpan.

In a small food processor, combine 1½ cups (240 g) of the oats, the quinoaflakes (or puffedmillet), cinnamon, and salt; process until the oats are finelyground. Transfer to a medium bowl and stir in the butter, brown sugar, andapplesauce.Spreadinthepreparedbakingpan.

In the foodprocessor (noneed to clean it first), combine the yogurt, egg, andhoneyuntilsmooth.Spreadthemixtureoverthebatterinthepan,thensprinkleevenlywiththenutsandremaining¼cup(40g)oats.

Bakeuntiltheyogurttoppingisset,about30minutes.Letcoolonawirerack,thencutinto8rectangles.Storeintherefrigeratorinanairtightcontainerintwolayersseparatedbywaxedpaperforupto5days.Wrapeachbarindividuallyinwaxedpapertotake-and-goortopackintowintertimelunchboxes.

BATIDODETRIGO(LATINAMERICANPUFFED-WHEATDRINK)

Serves1|vegan

I admit to having fond memories of that oversweetened puffed-wheat boxedcereal I lovedasakid(thoughmymominvariablycut thegoodstuffwith theunsweetened kind as soon as she brought it home from the grocery store),especiallythewayitmadethemilktastecloyingandwheatybythetimethelastfewpuffsinthebowlhadgonesoggy.SoIwaspositivelytransportedthefirsttime I had an icy, thick batido de trigo, a shakemadewith puffedwheat at aMexicanplaceinJacksonHeights,Queens,afteraMetsgameatSheaStadium.I’m sure that onewas loadedwith sweetened condensedmilk, but it’s just asdelightfulwith nomore than a couple squeezes of agave nectar. To boost thenutritional content, sprinkle in some toasted wheat germ, wheat bran, and/orgroundflaxseeds.

•1cup(240ml)coldalmond(seebelow),rice,orsoymilk•1½cups(15g)unsweetenedpuffedwheat•Dashofgroundcinnamon•Agavenectarorothersweetenertotaste•4icecubes

Combine the almond milk, puffed wheat, cinnamon, and agave nectar in ablenderand let soak for5minutes.Add the iceandblenduntil smooth.Serveimmediately.

VARIATIONS

* For an extra-rich (nonvegan) drink, use regular milk plus 2 tablespoonssweetenedcondensedmilk(ortotaste)andomittheagavenectar.

* Use any puffed whole grain instead of or in combination with the wheat:

Puffedmillet,spelt,andbrownriceallworkwell.

*Insteadofpuffedwheat,use1cup(170g)cookedandcooledfarro(youcanuse it straight from the freezer)or leftovercookedoatmeal.Or soakuncookedrolledoatsinthemilkmixtureovernightandblendwithiceinthemorning.Notethatfirmercookedgrains—wheatberries,rye,andthelike—don’tworksowell:Theytendtojustbouncearoundintheblender.

*Vary the flavorings:Addadashofvanillaor almondextract, or replace thecinnamonwithcardamomornutmeg(foranogeffect).

ALMONDMILK

Makesascant4cups(900ml)|vegan,glutenfree

•1cup(110g)wholeraworroastedalmonds•½teaspoonpurevanillaextract(optional)

Putthealmondsinacontainerwith4cups(960ml)coldwater.Coverand refrigerate for at least 4 hours and up to overnight. Puree in ablenderuntilverysmooth,thenpourthroughafine-meshsieveintoacleancontainer,pushingonthealmondpulptoextractasmuchoftheliquid as possible. Stir the vanilla extract into the almond milk, ifdesired,thencoverandstoreintherefrigerator,whereitwillkeepforatleast5days.

2AppetizersandSmallBites

IguessIthoughtitwascutethefirsttimemydaughterrequestedan“appetizer”whileIwaslaboringoverasupperthatwastakingtoomanydarnhourstomake(thismightverywellhavebeenduringmyseveral-days-longmarathonofThaistreetfoodcookingthatwassoauthenticamysteriousgritappearedinonedish).Butnowsheexpects themeveryevening, the little scamp. Ioften thinkaheadenoughtosetoutanappealingplatterofcutrawvegetablesandalittleramekin

ofhummus,orabowlofnuts,oracut-uppieceoffruit(mymomwasrightallalong:Putbeautifulwholefruitinacenterpiece-worthybowlonthetableanditwill rot there,butcutup thatshriveledoldappleandit’llbegone inseconds).Usually this keeps us all satisfied until themain dish is ready. But hosting adinner party, or serving hors d’oeuvreswith drinks requires something a littlemoresophisticated,andthosearethekindsofrecipesyou’llfindhere.Obviouslymanyofthesewouldalsomakealovelylightlunchorbrunch,orevenasummersupper.They’reallintenselyflavorful,assmallbitesshouldbe.

SMOKEDFISHANDKASHACAKESWITHWATERCRESSSALADANDCRÈMEFRAÎCHE

Serves8|glutenfree

A very elegant way to serve hearty kasha, these delicate pan-fried cakes arestuddedwithpiecesofoil-richsmokedfish,whichI’vefoundtobeaperfectfoilfor the distinctly flavored roasted buckwheat groats. Paired with a dollop ofcreamandasmall,sharp-tastingwatercresssalad,theymakealovelyappetizer.You could alsomake half-size cakes and serve themwith drinks at a cocktailparty:spoonatinybitofcrèmefraîcheorsourcreamontop,andgarnishwithasprigofwatercressordill.

Tomake this especially fancy, use 4 ounces (115 g) flaked smoked trout(pickoutanybonesandskin)insteadofthekippersandtuna.

FORTHEKASHACAKES

•2cupscookedkasha(thispage),cooled•1(3.25-ounce/90-g)cankippered(smoked)herring,drainedandflaked•1(4.5-ounce/130-g)canlighttunainoliveoil,drainedandflaked•2teaspoonsmincedfreshdill•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper•1largeegg,lightlybeaten•About¼cup(60ml)oliveoil

FORTHESALADANDTOSERVE

•3tablespoonsChampagnevinegarorwhite-winevinegar•½teaspoonsalt•¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper•½teaspoongrainymustard•3tablespoonsoliveoil

•4ounces(about4cups/115g)watercress,washedandspundry•8teaspoonscrèmefraîche(seeNote)•8sprigsfreshdill

MAKETHEKASHACAKES

Ina largebowl,combine thekasha,kipperedherring, tuna,anddill.Tasteandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Stirintheegg.Dividethemixtureinto8portionsinthebowl.

Inalargesautépan,heathalfoftheoilovermedium-highheatuntilitshimmers.Shape4portionsofthekashamixtureintotightlypacked3-inch(7.5-cm)roundpatties and add them to the pan. (Don’t worry if the mixture doesn’t holdtogetherwell:Formthemonaspatulaandgentlyslidethemintothehotoilasyou make them; the patties will firm up as they cook.) Cook until nicelybrownedon thebottom,about6minutes.Turnandbrown theother side, thenremove to a large plate and cover loosely with aluminum foil to keep warm.Repeatwiththeremainingoilandpatties.

MAKETHESALAD

In a large bowl, whisk together the vinegar, salt, pepper, and mustard, thengraduallywhiskintheoil.Addthewatercressandtosstocoat.Pilesomeofthesaladoneachof8servingplatesandtopwithakashapatty.Dollopeachpattywithcrèmefraîcheandtopwithadillsprig.Serve.

NOTE: To make about 2 cups (480 ml) homemade crème fraîche: In aheavy saucepan, combine 2 cups (480 ml) heavy cream (preferably 36percent butterfat ormore) and¼ cup (60ml) cultured buttermilk. Placeovermediumheatandbringjustto100°F(38°C)onacandythermometer,stirring.Immediatelypourintoanonreactivebowl,cover,andsetasideatroom temperature for 24 hours; don’t stir. Transfer the bowl to therefrigeratorfor8hoursorovernight,thenleaveitoutatroomtemperatureagainfor24hours.Storeinanairtightcontainer(pouringoffrunnyliquidif there is any) in the fridge until ready to use; it will keep for up to 2weeks.

PAN-FRIEDSMELTWITHTAMARI-CITRUSDIPPINGSAUCE

Serves4

When Iwas living alone inHell’sKitchen as a freelancer (i.e.,when I didn’thavealotofmoneytospendonfancyfishfillets),I’dgototheseafoodmarketdownbythePortAuthoritynearmyapartmentandbuysmallhandfulsofsmelt,justsixoreightatatime,annoyingthehelloutofthefishguy,whowasclearlyusedtosellingtocustomerswithlargerappetites(and,probably,moregenerousbudgets). I came to truly love these cheap—and, I later learned, sustainablycorrect—littlefreshwaterfishes,simplycoatedincornmealandquicklyfriedina skillet until the coating is crunchy and the tails are crisp as potato chips.There’snoneed to remove thebones: they’redelicate andpleasantly crunchy,andareanexcellentsourceofcalcium.

Onepoundof themmakesa light appetizer for fourpeople,butyoucouldeasilyfryupseveralpounds’worth—what’sknownin theupperMidwestasamesso’smelt—cutafewlemonsintowedges,maybemixupsomehomemadetartar sauce (try plain Greek yogurt whisked with a blob of good-qualitymayonnaise, some freshly squeezed lemon juice, anda spoonfulof the tomatochutneyonthispage),andinvitesomefriendsoverforsmeltandice-coldbeer.

Look for bags of frozen cleaned smelt in the dark, infrequently visitedcornersofthefrozenfoodssectionofthesupermarket,andinAsianmarkets.Tothawthemquickly,submergetheunopenedbaginacontainerofcoldwaterandsetitinthesinkunderabarelydrippingfaucetfor15minutesorso.

FORTHEDIPPINGSAUCE

•2tablespoonstamari•3tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlimejuice•1tablespoonfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice•2tablespoonsthinlyslicedscallion•Pinchofcrushedredpepper

•Pinchoftoastedsesameseeds

FORTHESMELT

•½cup(85g)rawfine-grindcornmeal•¼cup(30g)whitewholewheatflour•½teaspoonsalt•¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper•1largeegg•2tablespoonsmilk•1pound(455g)cleanedsmelt(gutted,headsandfinscutoff)•About½cup(120ml)vegetableoil

MAKETHEDIPPINGSAUCE

Combinealltheingredientstogetherinasmallbowlwith1tablespoonwater.

MAKETHESMELT

Preheat theoven to250°F (120°C).Putawire rackoverabakingsheet in theoven.

In amedium bowl, whisk together the cornmeal, flour, salt, and pepper. In aseparatemediumbowl,whisktogethertheeggandmilk.Rinseanddrainthefishinacolander,thendumpthemintothebowlwiththeeggmixture.

Inalargeheavysautépan,heatabout¼cup(60ml)oftheoil(about⅛inch/3mmdeep)overmediumheatuntilitshimmersandabitofthecornmealmixturesizzleswhenyoudropitintotheoil.Liftafishfromtheeggmixture,lettingtheexcessdrainoff,thendredgeinthecornmealmixture.Carefullyloweritintotheoilandrepeatuntilyou’veaddedsixorsevenfishtotheoil—don’tcrowdthemin the pan. Cook, turning with tongs, until deeply browned and crisp, 5 to 6minutes total.Using the tongs, remove thefish to therack in theoven tokeepwarm.Repeatwiththeremainingfish,pouringouttheoilandreplacingitwithfreshoilabouthalfwaythrough.Servehot,withthedippingsauce.

VARIATION

*Foragluten-freeversion,usecornstarchinsteadofthewheatflour.

POLENTATARTWITHSWISSCHARD,GRUYÈRE,ANDCRÈMEFRAÎCHE

Serves6|vegetarian,glutenfree

This “tart” has a baked polenta round as its base and a creamy, cheesySwisschard topping thatbubblesandbrowns lightly in theoven.Cut thinwedges toservewithapileofsaladforalightbrunch,orserveonlittleplateswithdrinksintheevening.

•Oliveoil,forgreasingthepan•Salt•1cup(160g)rawmedium-orcoarse-groundcornmealorpolenta•½smallbunch(about4ounces/115g)Swisschard,washedandcoarselychopped

•2tablespoonscrèmefraîche(seeNoteonthispage)•½cup(110g)shreddedGruyèrecheese•2largeeggs,lightlybeaten•Pinchoffreshlygroundblackpepper•Pinchoffreshlygratednutmeg

Lightly oil a 9-inch (23-cm) tart pan with removable bottom and set it on aparchmentpaper–linedbakingsheet.

In a heavy 2-quart (2-L) saucepan, combine 4 cups (960 ml) water and ½teaspoonsalt.Bringtoaboil, thengraduallywhiskinthecornmeal.Lowertheheat and simmer (it should plop and bubble just once every few seconds),whisking frequently and stirring with a silicone spatula to prevent it fromsticking to the pan, until the cornmeal is thick but still pourable and theindividualgranulesaretender,about35minutesforcoarse-grindcornmealor15minutes formedium-grind cornmeal; add another½ cup (120ml)water if the

mixturebecomesthickbeforethegranulesaretender.Spreadthehotpolentatoaneven,½inch(12mm)thicknessinthetartpan.Letcoolcompletelytoset.Ifmakinginadvance,coverwithplasticwrapandstoreintherefrigeratorforupto1day.

Preheattheovento425°F(220°C).

Bakethepolentaroundonthepreparedbakingsheetuntildryontop,about25minutes.Turnitoutofthepanontothebakingsheetandremovethepanbottom(nowon top); bake until dry on the exposed side, about 25minutes.Turn thepolentabackoverintothetartpanandsetonthebakingsheet.Setaside.

Whilethepolentaroundisbaking,bring1inch(2.5cm)ofwatertoaboilinalarge saucepan.Add the chard, cover, and cook until tender, about 5minutes.Drainandplungethegreens intoabowlof icewater tostopthecooking, thendrainwellagain,squeezingoutanyexcesswater.

Inamediumbowl,stirtogetherthecrèmefraîche,cheese,eggs,¼teaspoonsalt,the pepper, and nutmeg. Stir in the chard. Spread themixture over the warmpolentaround(ifit’sveryrunny,useaslottedspoonandleavesomeoftheliquidinthebowl).Immediatelyreturnthebakingsheetwiththepantotheovenandbakeuntilthetoppingisset,about25minutes.Letcoolforatleast10minutesbeforecuttingintowedgesandservingwarmorserveatroomtemperature.Storeleftovers,covered,intherefrigeratorforupto2days.

NOTE:Ifyoudon’thaveatartpan,drawa9-inch(23-cm)circleonapieceofparchmentandflipitover,penciledsidedown,ontoabakingsheet.Letthe cooked polenta cool for 5minutes in the saucepan, then spread it½inch (12mm) thick over the circle. Let cool, then bake as above.Whentopping the polenta round with the filling, some fillingmay run off theedge a little and bake onto the parchment; just trim those bits off post-baking,beforecuttingandserving(theymakeatastysnackinthemselves).

SHREDDEDPORKWITHSMOKYFRUITSAUCEONMINICORNCAKES

Makesabout48assembledminicorncakes;serves12asanhorsd’oeuvre|glutenfreeImayliveinGeorgia,butI’mcloseenoughtoAydenandLexington,

NorthCarolina,toknowwhatrealbarbecueis,andyou’llnoticeIdidn’tpresumetocallthispulledporkorbarbecueoranythingofthesort.Whenyoucan’thavetherealthing,whenyou’verunoutofhickoryorthemorningistoolonggoneoryou’rejusttoolazytotendawholehoginanopenpitforeighteenhours,there’snothingwrongwithsubtlyhintinginthegeneraldirectionof

barbecue.Throwsomelessercutsofporkintheoven,mixupaquickchipotle-vinegarsauce,andpan-fryafewdozenlittlecorncakestogowith,andyou’vegotyourselfahomey,funhorsd’oeuvreorpartydish.Andeverythingcanbe

madeinadvanceandreheatedjustbeforeserving.

FORTHEPORK

•2pounds (910g)bonelesspork shoulder, cut into1-inch-thick (2.5-cm-thick)slices,orcountry-styleribs

•½teaspoonsalt•¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper•¼teaspoonhotpaprika•1tablespoonoliveoil

FORTHESAUCE

• ½ cup (120 ml) peach or nectarine jam or preserves, pureed if verychunky

•1cup(240ml)cidervinegar•½teaspoonchipotlechileflakesor½chipotlechileinadobo,minced•Salttotaste

FORTHECORNCAKES

•1¼cups(200g)rawfine-grindcornmeal

•¾teaspoonsalt•1teaspoonsugar•1teaspoonbakingpowder• 1 cup (240 ml) buttermilk or plain yogurt thinned with water to theconsistencyofbuttermilk

•2largeeggs,beaten•1cup(170g)freshorfrozen(thawed)sweetcornkernels(from1largeear)

•1scallion,thinlyslicedonthebias•Unsaltedbutter

MAKETHEPORK


Puttheporkinabakingdishorpaninasinglelayerandsprinklewiththesalt,pepper,andpaprika;drizzlewiththeoil.Coverthedishwithaluminumfoilandroastfor1hour,thenuncoverthedishandroastfor30minuteslonger,untilthemeat is tenderandeasilypulledapart.Whencool enough tohandle, shred themeat,discardinganylargepiecesoffat(yourhandsworkbestforthis,butyoucanalsousetwoforks).Setasideinamediumbowl.

MAKETHESAUCE

Simmeralltheingredientsinasmallsaucepanfor15minutes.Pourenoughoverthemeat,tojustcoatit;tosswell,andaddmoretotasteasnecessary.Themeatand sauce can be made up to 2 days in advance and refrigerated; warm in asaucepanoverlowheatwhenreadytouse.

MAKETHECORNCAKES


Inalargebowl,whisktogetherthecornmeal,salt,sugar,andbakingpowder.Ina separate medium bowl, whisk together the buttermilk and eggs. Pour thebuttermilkmixtureintothecornmealmixtureandfoldwitharubberspatulauntiljustcombined;thebatterwillbelumpy.Stirinthecornandscallion(reserveahandfulofgreenscallionslicesforgarnish).

Inalargesautépanoronagriddle,meltalittlebutterovermedium-highheat.Whenthefoamdiesdown,workinginbatches,spoonin2-tablespoonpuddlesofthebatter.Cookwithoutdisturbinguntilyoucanseethattheedgesarebrownedandbubblesappearatthecenterofthecorncake,about2minutes;useametalspatulatoturnandcooktheothersideuntilbrowned,about2minutes.Transfertoabakingsheetandkeepwarmintheoven.(Alternatively,letcool,thencoverand refrigerate for up to 1 day; reheat on a baking sheet in the oven beforeserving.) Top each cake with a bit of the shredded pork and garnish withscallion.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.

SWEETPOTATOANDMILLETCAKESWITHPOBLANOCREAM

Makes14(3-inch/7.5-cm)or34(1½-inch/4-cm)cakes;serves4or5asanappetizer|vegetarian,glutenfreeMillet,especiallywhenit’sbeentoastedinthe

panbeforebeingcookedinwaterorbroth,hasafaintcornlikearoma,anddespiteitslonghistoryasastapleofChinesecuisinetorivalrice,I’vealways

thoughtit’sbestwhenpairedwithLatinAmericanflavorslikecuminandchiles.Hereyoucookthemilletrightinthesamepanwithdicedsweetpotatoesand

onion,thenshapethemixtureintopattiesandbakethemuntilbrownedandcrispontheoutside.Topeachwithalittledollopofspicy,tangychilecream,orservethemplainalongsideabrothysouporroastchickenorpork.Ifyoudon’twanttogotothetroubleofroastingfreshchilesforthecream,use1(7-ounce/198-g)canofmild(Hatch-style)dicedgreenchiles,drained,or½cup(70g)diced

jarredroastedredpeppers.

FORTHEPOBLANOCREAM

•½cup(200g)dicedroastedpoblanoorothermildgreenchiles(about3largepoblanos;seeNote)

•1freshserranoorjalapeñochile,seededanddiced•2scallions,chopped•4ouncescreamcheese•½cup(120ml)plainGreekyogurt•¼teaspoonsalt,ormoretotaste

FORTHESWEETPOTATOANDMILLETCAKES

•1tablespoonoliveoil,plusmoreforthebakingsheet•1onion,diced•Salt•½teaspoongroundcumin•¼teaspoongroundcayenne•½cup(100g)rawmillet,rinsedanddrained

•2smallpeeledsweetpotatoes(1pound/455g),diced(about2½cups)•1largeegg,beaten•1scallion,thinlyslicedonabias

MAKETHEPOBLANOCREAM

Inaminifoodprocessor,combinealltheingredientsandprocessuntilsmooth.Transfertoanairtightcontainerandrefrigerateforatleast2hours.

MAKETHESWEETPOTATOANDMILLETCAKES

Heattheoilinaheavy2-quart(2-L)saucepanovermedium-highheat.Addtheonionandapinchofsaltandcook,stirringoccasionally,untiltranslucent,about5minutes.Addthecumin,cayenne,andmilletandcook,stirring,untiltheonionisstartingtobrown,3to5minutes.Add¾cup(180ml)water,½teaspoonsalt,andthesweetpotatoes.Cover,bringtoaboil, thenlower theheatandsimmeruntil thesweetpotatoesandmilletare tenderandallof the liquid isabsorbed,about25minutes;ifthemilletistenderbutliquidstillpoolsinthepan,uncoverandcookforanother5minutes.Turnoutintoalargebowlandletcooltoroomtemperature,fluffingandturningoccasionally.

Preheattheovento450°F(230°C).Generouslyoilabakingsheet.

Add theegg to thecooledmilletmixture and stir to thoroughly incorporate it.Spoon¼-cup(60-ml)moundsof themixtureonthepreparedbakingsheetandspreadtheminto3-inch(7.5-cm)diametercakes½inch(12mm)thick.Tomakesmallercakes, spoonoutheaping tablespoonmoundsandshape theminto1½-inch(4-cm)rounds.Bakeonthelowerrackoftheovenfor20minutes,thenflipthecakesoverwithametalspatulaandbakeuntilgoldenbrownonbothsides,10to15minuteslonger.

Arrangeonindividualservingplatesoraplatter,dollopwiththepoblanocream,andgarnishwiththescallion.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.

NOTE:Toroastchiles,putthemonabakingsheetunderthebroilerorsetthepeppersdirectlyonagasburnerandroast,turning,untilblisteredandblackenedallover.Putinabowl,cover,andsetasideuntilcoolenoughtohandle.Slipofftheskin,thencutoutthestemandremovetheseeds.

STUFFEDSWEETPEPPERSWITHMILLET,MONTEREYJACK,ANDBASIL

Makesabout42;serves8to10|vegetarian,glutenfree

These addictive little bombs of flavor and contrasting textures—creamy,crunchy,sweet,salty—areeasytomix,stuff,andbroilquicklyforaninformalget-togetherorjustassomethingforthefamishedfamilytonoshonwhile,say,the pot of chili is taking forever to simmer to perfection on the stovetop.Thepepperscanbestuffed,coveredonabakingsheet,andrefrigeratedupto1daybeforebroilingandserving.

•2cups(350g)cookedmillet(thispage)•4ounces(115g)shreddedMontereyJackcheese•6tablespoons(40g)freshlygratedParmesancheese•½cup(40g)choppedfreshbasil•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper•8ounces(225g)sweetminibellpeppers(20to22peppers;2to3inches/5to7.5cmlongeach)

•2teaspoonsoliveoil

Preheatthebroiler tohighandplacearackabout6inches(15cm)underneaththe heat source. Line a rimmed baking sheet (or two quarter sheet pans)withaluminumfoil.

In amedium bowl, combine themillet, cheeses, basil, 1 teaspoon salt, and½teaspoonblackpepper,ormoretotaste—themixtureshouldbequitesaltyandflavorful. Stir gently to incorporate the cheese without mushing up themilletgrains.

Cutthestemendoffeachsweetpepper,thencutinhalflengthwise;pulloutanddiscardanyseeds.Filleachhalfwithmilletmixture,moundingitupabit,and

arrangestuffingsideuponthepreparedbakingsheet.Drizzlewiththeoil.Broil,rotatingthebakingsheethalfwaythrough,untilthefillingisalittlebubblyandlightlybrowned,6to8minutes.Servewarm.

VARIATION

*Insteadofsmallsweetbellpeppers,youcanusemildjalapeños—theymaynotbeaskidfriendly,butthey’llbegood!

SHRIMPANDQUINOASPRINGROLLSServes6|glutenfree

Thesepretty,pink-and-greentranslucentrollsdon’treallyneedadippingsauce,butifyoulikeyoucanservethemwithlittlebowlsofthetamari-citrusoneonthispage.Feelfreetovarythefillingingredientstosuityourtastes,usingshredsofroastporkorstripsoffirmtofuorflakedwhitefishinsteadoftheshrimp.Youcanevenmakeitmoreofafreshsaladandfilleachricepaperwrapperwithjustraw grated carrots, sliced scallions, a lightly steamed asparagus spear, maybesomecrunchysprouts,andasprinkleoftamari.

•12largeshrimp,peeledanddeveined•1tablespoonvegetableoil•1shallot,thinlyslicedlengthwise•2teaspoonsmincedfreshginger•1teaspoonmincedgarlic•2mediumcarrots,peeledandcutintomatchsticks•1tablespoontamari•12(8-to9-inch/20-to23-cm)rice-paperspringrollwrappers•1½cups(275g)cookedivoryquinoa(thispage),chilled•12freshcilantroleaves•12freshmintleaves,plus12wholesprigs•12smallleavesBibborBostonlettuce,washedandpatteddry

Inthebottomofasteamer,bring1inch(2.5cm)watertoaboil.Addtheshrimptothesteamerbasket,cover,andsteamuntilopaqueandcookedthrough,about4minutes.Transfer theshrimp toabowlof icewater tocool, thenhalveeachshrimplengthwise.Putinanairtightcontainerandchillintherefrigerator.

Inasmallsautépan,heattheoilovermedium-highheat.Addtheshallot,ginger,

andgarlicandcook,stirringfrequently,until theshallot is translucent,about3minutes. Add the carrots and cook, stirring, until they are just tender, 1 to 2minutes.Stirinthetamari.Removetoaplateandletcool,thenputinanairtightcontainerandchillintherefrigerator.(Theshrimpandthecarrotmixturescanbepreparedupto1dayinadvance—andcanbestoredinthesamecontainer.)Fillawidebowlorpanwithhotwater.Add1springrollwrapperand letsoakuntilpliableandtender,about1minute.Removeitfromthewaterandlayitoutonacleanworksurface.Place2shrimphalves,pinksidedown,on thewrapper, inthecenteroftheendclosesttoyou.Covertheshrimpwithabout2tablespoonsof the quinoa. Top the quinoawith a pinch of the carrotmixture (about one-twelfthofit),thensetacilantroleafandamintleafontop.Foldthetwosidesofthe wrapper over the filling, then roll up like a burrito, enclosing the filling.Nestlethespringrollinalettuceleafwithasprigofmintandsetonaservingplatter.Repeatwiththeremainingwrappers,filling,lettuce,andmintsprigs.Thespringrollscanbemadeupto1hourinadvanceandtheplattercoveredtightlywithplasticwrapandrefrigerated.Servecold.

CHICKPEA-FLOURCRÊPESWITHQUINOA,MELTEDPEPPERS,ANDGOATCHEESE


Socca, a specialty ofNice and similar to the farinata of northwestern Italy, istraditionallymadeinenormouspaella-typepansinaveryhotoven—wood-fired,preferably—andpoured thickenough that the finishedpancakecanbecut intowedgesandservedlikepizza.Iliketomakeasimilarbatterbutmakethincrêpesofitonthestovetopratherthanunderthebroilerasmostrecipestellyoudoto(withthenotableexceptionofDanielBoulud’srecipe,whichIwashappytoseealsosuggestedthestovetop-onlymethod).Ithenstackthecrêpesonatinplateandsetoutbowlsoffluffyquinoawithsuper-sweet,slowlycaramelizedpeppersandshallots,abitofgoatcheese,andfreshthymesprigsforself-servicefilling.Servewithasaladofgreensinasimplevinaigretteandaglassofcoldroséforabeautifullate-summer,early-fallsupper.

•1cup(130g)chickpeaflour(besan)•Salt•3tablespoonsoliveoil•4shallots,thinlysliced• 8 ounces (225 g) mini sweet peppers or red, yellow, or orange bellpeppers,seededandcutinto¼-inch(6-mm)strips

•½teaspoonfreshthymeleaves,pluswholesprigsforgarnish•Freshlygroundblackpepper•1½cups(275g)cookedquinoa(thispage)•3ounces(85g)goatcheese

Siftthechickpeaflourand½teaspoonsaltintoamediumbowl.Whiskin1cup(240 ml) water and 1 tablespoon of the oil. Let the batter stand at roomtemperaturefor1to2hours.

In a large sauté pan, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil overmedium heat.Add theshallots,sweetpeppers,thymeleaves,andapinchofsaltandblackpepperandcook, stirring occasionally and lowering the heat if the vegetables brown tooquickly,until very soft andcaramelized, about20minutes.Add2 tablespoonswaterandscrapeupanybrownedbitsonthebottomofthepan.Addthequinoaandsalttotasteandcook,turningtocombineandheatthrough,about5minutes.Covertokeepwarmandsetasideinaservingbowl.Putthecheeseonaservingplatewithaservingknifeandgarnishwithsomewholethymesprigs.

Heatalarge,well-seasonedcast-ironornonstickgriddleorskilletovermedium-highheatuntiladropofwatersplashedontoitdancesacrossthesurface.Pouralittle bit of the remaining1 tablespoonof oil onto a paper towel anduse it togrease thegriddle.Whisk thebatteragain, then ladleascant¼cup(60ml)ofbatter onto the griddle so it spreads into a thin shape approximating a round.Cookuntilallof thetopsurfaceappearsdry,20to30seconds, thenuseathinspatula or your fingers to lift one side of the crêpe and gently fold it in half.Remove to a servingplate.Repeatwith the remainingbatter, oiling the skilletbetweeneachcrêpe.Servethecrêpeswiththequinoaandpeppers,andcheesesoyourguestscanfillthemtotheirlikingthemselves.

BROWN-RICEONIGIRI(JAPANESE-STYLERICEBALLS)WITHSEAWEEDANDQUICK-

PICKLEDFENNELMakesabout10smallballs|vegan,glutenfree

Usingthisrecipeasastartingpoint,youcanmakeonigiri(“ah-NEE-gree”)withjust about any ingredients folded into the rice or stuffed into the center. Themore intensely flavored, the better: umeboshi (pickled) plums (available inAsianstoresandgoodsupermarkets),otherseaweedssuchashijikiorcrumblednori, gomashio (this page), bits of salty-sweetChinese-style broiledor roastedpork, soy-marinated teriyaki chicken or beef, and so on. Or you can just useplain ricewith vinegar and sugar, and sprinklewith toasted sesame seeds andsalt. If you like, you can also shape them into pyramids, logs, ormore exoticforms—whateverfitswellinyourlunchboxorlooksattractiveonyourplate.

•1cup(190g)rawshort-grainbrownrice•2teaspoonsricevinegarorbrinefromthepickledfennel•Pinchofsugar•½cup(50g)choppedQuick-PickledFennel(recipefollows)•8gmixeddriedseaweed(I likeaready-mixedcombinationofwakame,agar, suginori, tsunomata, andmafunori), soaked inwarmwater for 5minutes

Rinse the rice ina fine-meshsieve;drainwell.Put it inaheavy2-quart (2-L)saucepanwith1½cups(360ml)water.Coverandbringtoaboilovermedium-highheat,thenlowertheheatandsimmeruntilthericeistenderandmostoftheliquid is absorbed, about30minutes.Drain in the sieve ifnecessary.Turnoutinto a large bowl and sprinkle with the vinegar, sugar, pickled fennel, andseaweed.Usearubberspatulatogentlystirandfoldthehotriceuntiltheotheringredientsareevenlyincorporated.

While the rice is stillwarm,drapeapieceofplasticwrapoveryourhandandscoopinagolf-ball-sizemoundofthericemixture.Usetheplastictohelpyoushapeitintoasphere,thenturnitoutoftheplasticandsetitonaplateorinasealable container. Repeat with the remaining ricemixture. Serve warm or atroomtemperature,orcoverandrefrigerateuntilcold,thenpackintoabentoorlunchbox.

QUICK-PICKLEDFENNEL

Makesabout1pint(200g)|vegan,glutenfree

Keepalittlejarofthisintherefrigeratortoaddtogreensaladsortofold into anycookedgrainswhereahit of anise andorangewillbewelcome—Iliketodiceafewslicesoffennelandfolditintocookedbulgurwithafewpittedblackolivesandahandfulofwhitebeansforaquicklunch.

•1largefennelbulb,stalkscutoff•1teaspoonsalt•1½cups(360ml)ricevinegar•1teaspoonfinelygratedorangezest•1teaspoonagavenectar

Trimtherootendoffthefennelbulbandcutthebulblengthwiseintoquarters.Cutthefennelinto¼-inch(6-mm)slicesandputtheminacolander. Toss with ½ teaspoon of the salt and let stand for 30minutes; the fennelwill release someof its liquid andbecomeabitlimp.Rinseundercoldwater,drainwell,and transfer toaheatproofcontainer(suchasapint-sizeglasscanningjar).

Inasmallsaucepan,combinethevinegar,¾cup(180ml)water,theorangezest,agavenectar,andtheremaining½teaspoonofsalt.Bringto a boil, stirring to dissolve the salt, then pour over the fennel tocover.Letcool, thencoverandrefrigerateuntilverycold,at least2hours.Thefennelwillkeepintherefrigeratorforatleast1month.

OVEN-BAKEDBROWN-RICESUPPLÌ(ITALIANSTUFFEDRICEBALLS)

Makes10to12smallballs|vegetarian,glutenfree

What is it about rice shaped into little balls that’s so endlessly appealing?They’retrulycomfortfood.Thesesupplìarebakedratherthanfried,butarestillcrispon theoutside,with the typicalmild freshmozzarella treat in the center.Theycanbeservedwithaquick tomatosauce,ofcourse,orasimplesaladofgreens tossedwith freshlysqueezed lemon juice,oliveoil,anda little saltandpepper.

•5to6cups(1.2to1.4L)vegetablestockorwater•1tablespoonoliveoil•½onion,diced•Salt•1cup(190g)rawshort-grainbrownrice•½cup(120ml)whitewine•½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper•1½tablespoonsunsaltedbutter

•⅓cup(35g)plus¼cup(25g)freshwholewheatbreadcrumbs•1largeegg,beaten•1tablespoonchoppedfreshparsleyorbasil•About4ounces(115g)freshmozzarella,cutinto½-inch(12-mm)pieces,or10to12bocconcini

Putthestockinasaucepanandbringtoasimmer.

Meanwhile, ina largedeepsautépan,heat theoilovermediumheat.Add theonionandapinchof saltandcook, stirringoccasionally,until softandgolden

brown,about8minutes.Addthericeandstirtocoatwiththeoil.Addthewineand cook, stirring frequently, until it is almost all evaporated and absorbed,about3minutes.Ladle in abouthalf of the simmering stock, to just cover therice. Add ½ teaspoon salt and the pepper, cover the sauté pan, and simmer,stirringoccasionallyandaddingmoresimmeringstockifneededtokeepthericejustcovered,for30minutes.

Uncover thepanandaddstock tocover ifnecessary.Cookuncovered,stirringtherisottomorefrequentlynow,untilthericeistenderandmostoftheliquidhasevaporated andwhat remains ismore opaque and slightly thickened, 10 to 15minutes.Stirin1tablespoonofthebutteruntilitmelts.Scrapetherisottointoalargebowlandsetasidetocooltoroomtemperature.

Preheattheovento450°F(230°C).Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.

Inasmall sautépan,melt the remaining½ tablespoonofbutterovermedium-high heat and add the⅓ cup (35 g) of bread crumbs. Cook, stirring, untildarkenedashadeandtoastysmelling,about4minutes.Scrapeontoaplateandsetaside.

Stir the egg, parsley, and remaining ¼ cup (25 g) of bread crumbs into thecooledrisotto.Gentlyshapeintospheresaboutthesizeofgolfballs,pushingapieceof thecheese into thecenterofeach,beingsure tocompletelycover thecheesewiththerisottomixture.Rollinthetoastedbreadcrumbsandarrangeonthepreparedbakingsheet.Bakeuntilgoldenbrown,about45minutes, turningtheballsoverhalfwaythrough.Servehot.

VARIATION

*Forquickercooking,youcanshallow-frytheballsinalargeheavysautépanin⅛ inch (3mm) of olive oil overmedium heat (no need to toast the breadcrumbs in butter first, as they’ll crisp and brown in the pan).Cook for 4 to 5minutesoneachside,turningtheballsfrequentlywithtongs,untilthecheeseiscompletelymelted—cutoneopentocheck.

BROILEDFIGSWITHCOUSCOUS,FETA,MINT,ANDBALSAMICSYRUP

Serves6|vegetarian

Ilovethewayfigslookwhenslitpartwaythroughthestemendandeasedopenintoablossomshape, thedarkorbrightgreenouterskinhighlighting thepinkfleshwithin.Toppedwithalittlemoundofcouscous,creamyfeta,andmint,anddrizzledwithaninkybalsamicsyrup,thesefigsmakeanimpressivebutsuper-easyfirstcourse.

FORTHEBALSAMICSYRUP

•½cup(120ml)balsamicvinegar•2teaspoonsagavenectarorhoney

FORTHEFIGS

•1½cups(240g)cookedwholewheatcouscous(thispage),warm•½cupcrumbedfetacheese(about2ounces/55g)•¼cup(20g)choppedfreshmint,plus6sprigsforgarnish•6largefreshfigs,suchasBrownTurkey•1tablespoonoliveoil•Freshlygroundblackpepper

MAKETHEBALSAMICSYRUP

Inawideskilletorsautépan,bringthevinegartoaboil;cookuntilreducedtoabout3tablespoons,about3minutes.Stirintheagavenectarandsetthesyrupaside.

MAKETHEFIGS

Preheatthebroilertohigh.Linearimmedbakingsheetwithaluminumfoil.

In amediumbowl, toss together the couscous, cheese, and choppedmint. Setaside.

Cutthestemsoffthefigs.Setafigonacuttingboardstemendup.Usingasharpknife, cut into quarters lengthwise without cutting all the way through thebottom.Placeonthepreparedbakingsheetandgentlyspreadthequartersapartintoaflat-ishflowershape.Broil,6 inches(15cm)fromtheheatsource,untiljustbeginningtobrownatthetips,4to5minutes.Removefromtheovenandleavethebroileron.

Usingalargespoon,scoopupaportionofthecouscousmixtureandlightlypackit intoamound in thespoon, thenset it in thecenterofa fig.Repeatwith theremainingfigs.Drizzlewiththeoilandgrindsomepepperoverthefigs.Returnto the oven andbroil until sizzling andheated through, 4 to 5minutes.Use ametal spatula to transfer each fig to a serving plate. Drizzle lightly with thebalsamicsyrup(youwon’tuseitall),garnishwithamintsprig,andservehot.

PUFFED-GRAINANDGREEN-TOMATOCHAAT(INDIANSTREET-FOODSNACK)

Serves2or3|vegetarian

Yes,it’salotofingredients,butfeelfreetoomitvegetablesatwill,orjustuseagoodcurrypowderinsteadoftheindividualspices.Also,whilethepuffedgrainsshouldbesautéedandtossedwiththevegetablesjustbeforeserving,mostoftheelementscanbeprepareddaysinadvance.IfyoulovethisasmuchasIdo,youmightconsiderkeepingachaatkitinacornerofthefridgethatconsistsoflittlecontainers of the chutney-yogurtmixture, tamarind chutney, and plain yogurt,plus a larger container of the vegetable mixture (tomato, cucumber, onion,chickpeas,cilantro,chile),soit’sasnaptomakethisperfectsnackanytime.

•1teaspoonmint-cilantrochutney(seeNotes)

•2tablespoonsplus⅓cup(80ml)plainyogurt•½cup(90g)dicedgreentomato•½cup(75g)dicedcucumber•½cup(80g)dicedsweetonion•½cup(80g)cookedchickpeas•¼cup(20g)choppedfreshcilantro•1tablespoonmincedserranoorjalapeñochile•¼cup(40g)rolledoats•1tablespoonvegetableoil•½teaspooncuminseeds•¼teaspoonpaprika,plusmoreforgarnish•¼teaspoonturmeric•Pinchofsalt• 2 cups (20 g) unsweetened puffed whole grains, such as brown rice,

wheat,spelt,ormillet

•⅓cup(80ml)tamarindchutney(seeNotes)•¼teaspoongroundcumin•Limewedges•Choppedpitteddates(optional)

Inasmallbowl,stirtogetherthemint-cilantrochutneyand2tablespoonsyogurt;set aside. In a large bowl, toss together the green tomato, cucumber, onion,chickpeas,cilantro,andchile;setaside.

In a large sautépanovermedium-highheat, toast theoats, tossing frequently,untildeeplybrownedandcrisp,about5minutes;transfertoaplateandsetaside.

Return the pan to medium-high heat and add the oil, cumin seeds, paprika,turmeric, and salt. Cook, stirring, until fragrant and sizzling, about 1 minute.Add the puffed grains and stir to coatwith the spiced oil aswell as you can.Scrape into the bowl with the vegetables, along with the oats, and toss tocombine. Scoop the mixture into serving bowls and dollop with the chutney-yogurt mixture, the tamarind chutney, and remaining ⅓ cup (80 ml) plainyogurt. Sprinkle with the ground cumin and a little paprika and serveimmediately,withlimewedgesforsqueezingoverthetopandchoppeddates,ifdesired.

VARIATION

*Tryaddingsomepoppedamaranthorsorghum(seethispageorthispage)tothepuffedgrainmixture.

NOTES: Bright greenmint-cilantro chutney is available in Indian grocerystores and in the international section ofmany regular supermarkets; thetallglassjarsareusuallyjustlabeled“mintchutney.”It’sspicy,salty,andvinegaryandwillkeepalmostindefinitelyintherefrigerator.

YoucanfindtamarindchutneyinIndianmarketsaswell,butitiseasytowhipupathome.Tomaketamarindchutney,whichwillalsokeepprettymuch forever in a clean glass jar in the fridge, coarsely chop about 14

dates(oruseabout⅓cup/55graisins)andputtheminasmallsaucepanwith2tablespoonstamarindconcentrateandenoughwatertocoverthem.Simmeruntilthedatesareverysoft, thenpureeinaminifoodprocessororblenderuntilverysmooth,addingwaterifnecessarytomakeathickbutpourablesauce.Seasonwithacouplepinchesofsalt.Thismakesabout1cup(240ml).

3Salads

It couldn’t be easier tomake a saladwithwhole grains—to the point that it’salmostembarrassingtohavewrittentherecipes in thischapterdown.Thinkofthem as starting points, or ideas for those times when your own power ofinventionisflagging(Ihavethoseoftenmyself).Here’showyoumakeawhole-grain salad: Pull some cooked grains—leftovers—out of the refrigerator, tosswithadressingandwhateverfreshvegetablesyouhaveonhand,spoonontoa

prettyplate,andyou’vegotanelegantlunchorthestartofasplendidsupper.Orpack it in a bento box, maybe with a waxed-paper packet containing a fewpinches of something crisp or crunchy for sprinkling on top (the nut-and-seedtopping on this page, for example).Most of these salads can easily double asmaincourses; if they’re lackingproteinas theyareandyouwantmoreheft toyourmeal,hereareafeweasysolutions:•Addacan’sworthofwhitebeans,redbeans,orchickpeas,wellrinsedanddrained.•Crispsomecubesofextra-firmtofuinalittleoilinasautépanandtossthemwiththesalad.

•Addagenerousdollopofplainyogurtorscattershavedhardcheese,cubesoffeta,orcrumblesofgoatcheeseorbluecheeseontop.

•Cutupahard-cookedegg(seeNote,thispage)ortwoandtossitin.•Flakeinsomeoliveoil–packedcannedtuna.•Thinlyslicealeftovergrilledchickenbreastorporkchopandtossitwiththesalad.

CATFISHANDBARLEYLARB(SPICY,SOURTHAISALADWITHCRUSHEDRICE)

Serves4

Larb, thewarmor room-temperatureThai saladseasonedwithcrushed toastedraw rice, is one of my all-time favorite dishes. It has everything I love in asummertimemeal in darnnear-equatorial Georgia: tart lime juice and fragrantkaffir lime leaves, sweat-inducingchiles and coolingmint, plentyof salty fishsauce, and loads of cilantro. You can find kaffir lime leaves in somesupermarketsthesedays,andinanyAsianmarket.Withafewpantrystaplesonhandandastashofkaffir leaves in thefreezer,where they’llkeepformonths,larbisapossibilityanyday.Italsomakesafinepackedlunch,sinceit’sjustasgoodcooloratroomtemperatureaswarm.

•1tablespoonrawbrownrice•½to1teaspooncrushedredpepper,ortotaste•Juiceof3limes•1½tablespoonsfishsauce•4kaffirlimeleaves,verythinlysliced•¼cup(20g)choppedfreshmint•½cup(40g)choppedfreshcilantro•4shallots,thinlysliced•2tablespoonsvegetableoil•10ounces(280g)skinlesscatfishfilletsorotherwhitefish,suchaswildcodortilapia

•4largeBibborBostonlettuceleaves,washedandpatteddry(optional)•2½cups(400g)warmcookedhulledbrownorpurplebarley(thispage)

In a large sauté pan overmedium-high heat, toast the rice, tossing frequently,

untildeeplybrowned,about3minutes.Removetoaspicegrinderormortarandlet cool for a fewminutes;processorpoundwithapestleuntil finelyground.Transfertoalargebowlandaddthecrushedredpepper,limejuice,fishsauce,kaffirlimeleaves,mint,cilantro,andshallots;setthedressingaside.

Return the sautépan tomedium-highheat andadd theoil.When it shimmers,addthefishandcook,turningoncewithametalspatula,untilgoldenandlightlycrispedoneachsideandopaquethroughout,6to8minutestotaldependingonthethicknessofthefillet.Removetopapertowelstodrain.Ifthefishstickstothepanalittle,somuchthebetter:Scrapeupthosebitsanddrainthemonthetowels too. Let cool towarm, then coarsely chop the fish and add it and anybrowned bits to the bowl with the dressing. Toss to combine. If you’d like,arrangelettuceleavesonaplatterandscoopinthebarley,thenthefishmixture.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.

VARIATIONS

*Tomake thisvegan,make thedressingwithsoysauce insteadof fishsauce,using a little less lime juice. Omit the fish, and instead sauté the barley in 1tablespoonoil,turningfrequentlywithametalspatula,untilcrisp-chewy,8to10minutes. Scrape into the bowl with the dressing and toss to combine. Servewarmoratroomtemperatureinlettuceleaves.

*Thefishsaucedressingisgreatspoonedgenerouslyoverhotpan-roastedporkchops;servewithasideofChinesebroccoliorothergreenssautéedwithgarlic.

* Use 1 pound (455 g) ground pork instead of the fish; cook it until nicelybrowned and crisped, and drain off any excess fat before youmix itwith thedressing.

COWBOYSALAD(BARELYSTEAMEDBROCCOLIANDBARLEYSALAD)

Serves2|vegetarian

Raw broccoli salad or slaw is aworthy thing, but it’s awell-known fact thatpeopleunder theageofsix tend toprefer theirbroccolicooked,and thequicksteaming here couldmake the difference between love and hate at the suppertable.Ifyouhaveamicrowaveoven,youcanjustputthebroccoliinabowlwithasplashofwater,coverwithapapertowel,andhititfor33or44seconds(thosenumbersbeingquickertopunchinthanevenones,andit’sallaboutspeed,isn’tit?).

Mymomhasbeenmakingthissaladforyearsandyears,andI’veaskedbutIstilldon’tunderstandwhyshecallsit“cowboy.”Somelong-windedstoryaboutarancherinMontana.Callitwhateveryouwant,aslongasit’smysterious.

This recipe contains an example of one of those fussy steps that seemunnecessarybutthatiftakenwillsubtlyelevateadishtosomethingabitmorepleasing and refined than it might otherwise be: covering the onion with icewaterwhileyoupreparetherestofthesalad.Thiscrisps,chills,andmellowsitalittle,soitcontrastsnicelybutdoesn’toverpowerthemwithonionybite.

•½smallsweetonion,diced•Icewater•1smallheadbroccoli•¼cup(60ml)plainGreekyogurt•Juiceof½lemon•1teaspoonsalt,ormoretotaste•Severalgrindsblackpepper•2cups(320g)cookedhulledorhull-lessbarley(thispage),cooled•1ribcelery,diced•2tablespoonsdriedcranberries(optional)

Puttheonioninabowlandcoverwithicewater;setaside.

Cutthebroccoliintotinyflorets;dicethestemsandpeelanddicethemainstalk.Put in a sieve and set the sieve over a pot with a little boiling water in thebottom. Put the pot lid over the sieve and steam the broccoli for 2 minutes.Transfertoabowlofcoldwatertostopthecooking.Drainwell.

Inalargebowl,whisktogethertheyogurt,lemonjuice,salt,andpepper.Addthebroccoli,barley,celery,andcranberries, ifusing.Drainandadd theonionandtosstocombine.Tasteandaddmoresaltandpepperifnecessary.Serveatroomtemperatureorchillintherefrigeratorandservecold.Thesaladcanbepreparedupto1dayinadvance.

GREENLENTIL,WEHANIRICE,ANDARTICHOKEHEARTSALAD


I’m not big on rice salads, unless the rice in question is nutty, beautiful redWehani,whichtomeislesslikericethanafirmer,moresubstantialgraininthewheatfamily.Hereit’spairedwithgreenlentils(myfavoritekind),whichcookrightinthesamesaucepaninthesameamountoftime,andtossedwithalightthyme vinaigrette and artichoke hearts. This makes a quick, no-fuss, one-pot,one-bowl meal. If you can’t find Wehani rice, you can substitute long-grainbrownrice,or fornon-gluten-freeoptions, speltberries,Kamutberries,or softwhitewheatberries,allofwhichcookinaboutthesameamountoftime.

•½cup(100g)rawWehanirice•½cup(95g)green(French)lentils,rinsedandpickedover•2tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice•Coarselygratedzestof½lemon•1tablespoonChampagneorwhitewinevinegar•½teaspoongrainymustard•½teaspoonsalt•¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper•1teaspoonfreshthymeleaves•2tablespoonsoliveoil• 1 (14-ounce / 400 g) can artichoke hearts (in water, not marinated),drained and rinsed, then chopped; or about 8 small frozen artichokehearts,thawedandchopped

Inaheavy2-quart(2-L)saucepan,combinetherice, lentils,and1½cups(360ml)water. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer until the rice and

lentils are just tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Drain in a sieve and rinse in coldrunningwateruntilcool;setasidetodrainfurtherinthesieve.

Inalargebowl,whisktogetherthelemonjuiceandzest,vinegar,mustard,salt,pepper,andthyme.Graduallywhiskintheoil.Addtheartichokeheartsandriceandlentilsandtosstocoatwell.Serveatroomtemperature.

ICY,SPICYSOBANOODLESALADServes2|vegan

Justaboutanysentence inCharlesPortis’sclassicnovelTheDogof theSouthcouldbetheonethatsendsyouovertheedge,theonethat,rememberingitlaterin the grocery-store parking lot, makes you fall to your knees weeping withlaughter.Forme itwas thisone:“Noone seemed tobe selling snowcones inthissteamingland.”(Thehumor’sinthelead-up,Iseenow.)Here’sthesaladImade for lunchwith some leftover soba noodles soon after reading about thedearthofsnowconesinCentralAmerica.ItwasoneofthoseGeorgia-summerdayswhenyoucan’tbringyourselftoleaveanyair-conditionedspace,noteventohurrytothemailboxinhopesofaSaveur,oratleastaNewYorker,whenthethought of cooking a meal makes you want to lie supine on the floor, whenputting crushed ice on a spicy and incredibly tangy salad seems like themostbrilliantideayou’veeverhad.

•6tablespoons(90ml)ricevinegar•3tablespoonstamari•1tablespoonmirin•1tablespoonchilepaste(sambaloelek),ormoretotaste•2teaspoonsgratedfreshginger•2scallions,thinlysliced•2bundles(about6ounces/170g)driedsobanoodles,cookedandchilled(seeNote)

•½smallheadchillediceberglettuce,coredandthinlyshredded•½cupfinelycrushedice

In a large bowl, whisk together the vinegar, tamari, mirin, chile paste, andginger.Addthescallions,noodles,andlettuceandtosstocoatwiththedressing.Divideamongservingplatesandsprinklewiththeice.Serveimmediately!

VARIATIONS

*Insteadofthecrushedice,topeachservingwith1tablespoonchoppedroastedunsaltedcashewsorpeanuts,or1teaspoontoastedsesameseeds.

* To add some vegan protein: Press a couple slabs of firm or extra-firm tofubetweenpapertowelstoremoveexcesswater,thendiceandaddtothesalad.Ortossinsomerinsed-offfrozenshellededamamebeans(noneedtothaw).

*Toadd somenonveganprotein:Poacha fewpeeledanddeveined shrimp inboilingwateruntilopaque,drain,andplungeintoicewatertocool,thencoarselychopandaddtothesalad.Oraddshreddedcookedchickenorpork.

*Ifyoucan’tbringyourselftoconsumeiceberglettuce,use½smallheadredorgreencabbage,coredandvery thinlysliced,orafewbighandfulsofshreddedNapaorSavoycabbage.

NOTE:Tocookandchillsobanoodles,bringalargepotofwatertoaboil.Add the noodles and stir. Return to a boil and cook until just al dente,about 4minutes.Drain in a sieve or colander and rinsewell under coldrunningwater until cold; drainwell, thenput in a covered container andkeeprefrigerateduntilreadytouse.

COLDSOBANOODLESWITHTAHINI,LIME,CUCUMBER,ANDSHREDDEDCHICKEN

Serves4

These spicy but surprisingly cooling noodles make an excellent quick lunch.Don’t skimp on the lime juice or fresh chile, both of which are importantelementsthatcontrastwiththecreamytahini–oliveoildressing.

•2bundles(about6ounces/170g)driedsobanoodles•3tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlimejuice•3tablespoonstahini(sesameseedpaste)•1tablespoonoliveoil•1tablespoonricevinegar•1tablespoonhoneyoragavenectar•1teaspoonsalt•½teaspoongratedfreshginger•1tablespoonchoppedfreshmint•1scallion,thinlyslicedonthebias•½Englishcucumber•1cup(140g)shreddedcookedchicken(about1breast)•1smallfreshhotredchile,thinlyslicedintorounds

Bringa largepotofwater toaboil.Addthenoodlesandstir.Return toaboilandcookuntil justaldente,about4minutes.Drain inasieveorcolanderandrinsewellundercoldrunningwateruntilcold;drainwellandsetaside.

While thenoodlesarecooking, ina largebowl,whisk together the lime juice,

tahini,oil,vinegar,honey,salt,ginger,andmint.Stirinthescallion,thenaddthecucumberandchickenandtoss tocoatwith thedressing.Addthenoodlesanduse tongs (or your hands) to combine them with the dressing and otheringredients.Transfertoservingplates,garnishwiththechile,andserve.

BEETANDAPPLESALADWITHSAVORYGRANOLA

Serves4|vegetarian,glutenfree.SeeOats

Here, sweet, tender beetsmeet tangy, crisp green apples in a bright redwinevinaigrette fleckedwith fresh herbs. The granola topping is intensely garlickyandpleasantlysalty,thebitsheldtogetherwithgratedParmesanthatmeltsandturnsgoldenasthegranolabakes.Usetheleftovergranolainsteadofcroutonstoadd crunch to salads, or sprinkle it over a pureed soup or simply steamedvegetables.

FORTHESAVORYGRANOLA

•1cup(160g)rawrolledoats•¼cup(25g)freshlygratedParmesancheese•2tablespoonspinenuts•1½tablespoonsoliveoil•2teaspoonsmincedgarlic•1teaspoonfreshthymeleavesorchoppedrosemary•¼teaspoonsalt

•⅛teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

FORTHESALAD

•1pound(455g)smallbeets,topscutoff•1largegreenapple•¼cup(60ml)redwinevinegar•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper•2tablespoonsoliveoil•¼cup(20g)tornfreshbasilleaves

•2tablespoonstornfreshmintleaves

MAKETHESAVORYGRANOLA


In a 9-inch (23-cm) square baking pan, preferably nonstick, combine all theingredients, stirring to coat with the oil. Bake until golden brown, 25 to 30minutes.Let cool to room temperature in thepanon awire rack.Thegranolawillkeepinanairtightcontainerintherefrigeratorforupto2weeks.

MAKETHESALAD

Putthebeetsinasmallsaucepan,coverwithwater,andbringtoaboil.Lowertheheatandsimmeruntilthebeetsaretender,20to30minutes.Drainandcoverwithcoldwater;whencoolenough tohandle, rub thepeelsoff thebeets,dicethem,andsetasidetocoolcompletely.

Coreanddicetheapples(noneedtopeel).

In a large bowl,whisk together the vinegar and salt and pepper to taste, thenwhiskintheoiluntilemulsified.Addthebeetsandapplestothedressing,alongwiththebasilandmint,andtoss tocombine.(Thesaladwillkeep,covered, inthe refrigerator for up to 4 hours; let sit at room temperature for 15 minutesbefore serving to allow the oil to reliquify.) Top each serving with a fewtablespoonsofthesavorygranolaandserve.

SPINACHANDOATGROATSSALADWITHBLUECHEESEANDTOASTEDWALNUTS

Serves4|vegetarian,glutenfree.SeeOats

I’dnevercookedwholeoatgroatsbeforeIstartedworkingonthisbook,butitwassuchapleasantsurprisetolearnhoweasytheyaretouseinsaladslikethis.I guess I just assumed they’d take forever to cook andwouldn’t beworth thetrouble,butIwaswrong.Infact,themild,slightlysweetflavoroftheoatsisaperfect match for the other naturally sweet ingredients in this dish—balsamicvinegar, honey, sweet onion, and grapes—and helps temper any bite from thespinach (other, spicier greens like arugula or young dandelion would workequallywellhere)andthesaltinessofthebluecheese.Thatsaid,youcouldusefarroorspeltberriesinstead.

•2tablespoonsbalsamicvinegar•½teaspoonhoney•¼teaspoonsalt,ormoretotaste•¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper•2tablespoonsoliveoil•½cup(80g)verythinlyslicedsweetonion•½cup(75g)redgrapes,halved•2cups(450g)cookedoatgroats(thispage),cooled•4cups(120g)tornfreshspinachleaves•½cup(60g)walnuthalves,toasted•2ounces(55g)bluecheese

Ina largebowl,whisktogether thevinegar,honey,salt,andpepper.Graduallywhiskintheoil.Addtheonion,grapes,oatgroats,spinach,andwalnutsandtossto coat.Taste andaddmore salt if necessary, keeping inmind that the cheese

willbesalty.Pileonservingplatesandcrumblethecheeseoverthetop.Serve.

QUINOASALADWITHPARSLEY,DRIEDCRANBERRIES,BLACKWALNUTS,ANDGOAT

CHEESEServes4|vegetarian,glutenfree

Black walnuts appear in grocery stores in the fall. Their flavor is hard todescribe,as they’renotmuchlikeregularEnglishwalnutsatall (thoughbyallmeans use those if that’swhat youhave!).They taste a bit theway anunripewalnutorpecansmellswhenit’sknocked,stillgreen,fromthetreebyasquirrelandyoupickitupfromthegroundandtearthehuskopenwithyourfingernails,which turn deepmahoganywith the effort:musky andwiney and dark. Theirbitternesspairsverynicelywiththesweetdriedcranberriesandmildquinoainthis salad. (Use up the bag in the teff cookies on this page.)This surprisinglysatisfyingsaladmakesanexcellentsimplelunch,orasidedishnexttoapieceoflemonyroastchicken(thispage)foranonvegetarianmeal.Ilovehowthequinoagrainssticktothebitsofcreamy,tangygoatcheese,butfetabrokenintoroughchunkswould be a fine substitute. The salad can bemade a day (ormore) inadvance;removeitfromtherefrigerator15minutesbeforeservingandaddtheparsleyatthelastminute.

•⅓cup(80ml)sherryvinegarorwhitewinevinegar•½teaspoonsalt,ormoretotaste•Freshlygroundblackpeppertotaste•1teaspoonDijon-stylemustard•¼cup(55g)extra-virginoliveoil•3cups(550g)cookedquinoa(thispage),cooled•¼cup(25g)driedcranberries•¼cup(30g)choppedblackwalnuts•½bunchfreshflat-leafparsley,stemmed

•2ounces(55g)goatcheese

Ina largebowl,whisk thevinegar,salt,pepper,andmustard togetheruntil thesalt is dissolved.Graduallywhisk in the oil.Add the quinoa, cranberries, andwalnutsandtosstocombinewiththevinaigrette.Letstandatroomtemperaturefor30minutes.

Addtheparsleyandmoresaltorpepperifneeded.Transfertoaservingbowl,crumblethegoatcheeseoverthetop,andserve.

REDQUINOAANDCARROTSALADWITHYELLOWPEPPER,GRAPEFRUIT,ANDCRISPED

DULSEServes4|vegan,glutenfree

My friendRegan pointedme toward a quinoa saladwith sunflower seeds andseaweedinPeterBerley’stome-ishModernVegetarianKitchen,anditinspiredthis one. I usemild, crowd-pleasing dulse seaweed here, quickly crisped in alittle oil—it’s a good choice if you’re just beginning to use sea vegetables inyour cooking, but you could substitute soaked and drained hijiki, arame, or acombinationofseveraldifferentseaweeds.Orinstead,holdasquareofnoriwithheatprooftongsandpassitoveragasorelectricburnertotoastit,thencrumbleitoverthesalad.

•½sweetonion,diced•1yellowbellpepper,diced•Icewater•½cup(70g)sunflowerseeds•¼cup(55ml)oliveoil•8gdulseseaweed(seeNote),pickedoverandunfolded•1grapefruit•Juiceof½lemon,ormoreifneeded•1to2serranochiles,minced•1carrot,peeled•Salt•3cups(550g)cookedredquinoa(thispage),cooled

Put theonion and sweet pepper in a small bowl and coverwith icewater; setaside.

In a small sauté pan over medium heat, toast the sunflower seeds, tossingfrequently, until golden brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate to cool.Return thepan tomedium-highheat andadd theoil.Add thedulse andcook,pressing it down and turning with tongs or a spatula, until crisp and lightlybrowned,about3minutes.Removefromtheoilanddrainonapapertowel;setaside,reservingtheoilinthepan.

Withasharpknife,cuttherindandwhitemembraneoffthegrapefruit.Workingoveralargebowl,cutthesegmentsfromtheinnermembraneandletthemfallintothebowl;squeezejuicefromtheemptymembranesintothebowl.Addthelemonjuiceandchiles,thengratethecarrotintothebowl.Stirin1teaspoonsaltandtheoilfromcookingthedulse.

Dumpthequinoaintothebowlwiththegrapefruit.Drainandaddtheonionandsweetpepper.Crumble inhalfof thecrispeddulse.Tasteandaddmoresaltorlemon juice ifnecessary.Serve, sprinkledwith the remainingdulse,orchill intherefrigeratorforupto1day(keepthedulseatroomtemperatureandaddatthelastmoment)andservecold.

NOTE: Dulse (rhymes with “pulse”) is a beautiful red-purple algae thatgrows on wave-splashed rocks and on larger seaweeds in cold northernreaches of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. It’s dried and sold as wholeleavesorground intoflakesorpowder—use the larger leaveshereratherthan the finely ground. Dulse is a good source of iodine, which isimportantfor thoseofuswhopreferkoshersalt to iodized.Youcanalsousedulseforthericeballsonthispage.

QUINOAWITHCORN,TOMATOES,AVOCADO,SWEETONION,ANDBALSAMICREDUCTION


My friend Shari Miller’s description of how her house smelled of balsamicvinegar as she was making a quinoa dish with creamy avocado and sweetvegetables was evocative enough that I had to make something like itimmediately. (The aroma of vinegar simmering is oddly appealing to me,perhapsbecauseitremindsmeofpickle-canningdays.And,youknow,pickles.)

•1cup(160g)dicedsweetonion•Icewater•½cup(120ml)balsamicvinegar•1Hassavocado,peeled,pitted,anddiced•Juiceof1lemon•1cup(170g)freshorfrozen(thawed)cornkernels•1cup(180g)dicedtomato,drainedinacolander•8largefreshbasilleaves•3cups(550g)cookedblackorredquinoa(thispage),cooled•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpeppertotaste

Puttheonioninasmallbowloficewater.Setasidefor10minutes.

Meanwhile,inawideskilletorsautépan,bringthevinegartoaboil;cookuntilreducedtoabout3tablespoons,about3minutes.Setaside.

Puttheavocadoinalargebowlandsprinklewiththelemonjuice.Addthecorn,tomato,basil,andquinoa.Drain theonionandadd it to thebowl.Seasonwithsalt and pepper. Drizzle with the vinegar reduction and serve at roomtemperature.

SPROUTEDQUINOASALADWITHYELLOWTOMATOESANDSCALLIONS


Tabboulehisoftenmadewithdifferentherbs,andhereIusecilantro—belovedcilantro—andlotsofmint(seethispageforamoretraditionalversion).Itisnotoftenmadewithgrainsother thanbulgur,but itworksverywellwithnutrient-dense, crunchy sprouted quinoa in this totally raw dish. If you’d like, grate acarrotintothesaladforalittlemoresweetness.

•2cups(370g)sproutedquinoa(thispage)•2ripeyellowtomatoes,diced•Juiceof1½to2lemons•Salt•1cup(80g)choppedfreshcilantro•½cup(40g)choppedfreshmint•2scallions,thinlyslicedonabias•1tablespoonextra-virginoliveoil

In a largebowl, combine thequinoa, tomatoes, the juiceof1½ lemons, and apinchofsalt.Letstandfor30minutes,thenaddthecilantro,mint,andscallions.Tasteandaddmoresaltandlemonjuiceasneeded.Serveatroomtemperature,drizzledwiththeoil,orcoverandchillintherefrigeratorforupto4hoursanddrizzlewiththeoiljustbeforeserving.

PEARANDSPINACHSALADWITHQUINOA,HAZELNUTS,ANDLEMON-TAHINIDRESSING


Tahini is a great substitute for dairy: The smooth sesame-seed pastemakes acreamydressingthatgentlynapsthecrunchyquinoaandmingleswiththesweetjuicegivenoffbythepears.Hazelnutsmakethissaladespeciallyfancy,butyoucoulduseblanchedtoastedalmondsorsliveredalmondsinstead.

•½cup(55g)hazelnuts•6tablespoons(90ml)freshlysqueezedlemonjuice•½teaspoonsalt•¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper•2tablespoonstahini•2tablespoonsoliveoil•2smallpears•4cups(120g)babyspinach•3cups(550g)cookedquinoa(thispage),cooled

Inasmallsautépanovermedium-highheat, toast thehazelnutsuntil theskinscrackandtheloosebitsstarttosmoke,4to5minutes.Removetoaplateandrubofftheskinswithyourthumbsorapapertowel.Setaside.

In a very large bowl,whisk together the lemon juice, salt, pepper, and tahini,thendrizzleintheoil,whiskinguntilthedressingisemulsified.

Quarterthepears,cutoutthecores,anddicethepears.Addthepears,spinach,quinoa,andhazelnutstothedressing,tosstocoatwell,andserve.

MILLETANDSWEETCORNSALADWITHPOBLANOCHILES,GRAPETOMATOES,AND

CILANTROServes4|vegan,glutenfree

Therearefewthingsbetter,Ithink,thanverygoodsweetcorn,itsmilkykernelsslicedoffthecobinlongrowsthatholdtogetheralittleevenasyoutosstheminasalad.Hererawsweetcornispairedwithtoastymillet,mildbutdeep-flavoredpoblanos,andalime-tartdressingfleckedwithmineral-tastingcilantro.Tomakethis more of a main dish, add some protein in the form of blanched shellededamame,orcooked,gentlyrinsed,anddrainedblackbeans(thispage).

•3tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlimejuice•2tablespoonscidervinegar•2teaspoonsagavenectar•¾teaspoonsalt,ormoretotaste•¼teaspoongroundcayenne•¼cup(60ml)oliveoil•3cups(525g)cookedmillet(thispage),cooled•1pint(285g)grapeorcherrytomatoes,halved,or2mediumtomatoes,diced

•3mediumearssweetcorn,shucked,kernelscutoff•1poblanochile,seededanddiced•¼cup(20g)choppedfreshcilantro•2scallions,thinlyslicedonthebias

Ina largebowl,whisk together the lime juice,vinegar, agavenectar, salt, andcayenne,thenwhiskintheoil.Addthemilletandtosstobreakitupabit,thenaddtheremainingingredientsandtosswell.Tasteandaddmoresaltorcayenne

ifnecessary.Serveatroomtemperature,orcoverandkeepintherefrigeratorforupto2hoursbeforeservingcold.

WARMWHEATBERRYANDBEETSALADWITHANISE-SCENTEDYOGURTCHEESE

Serves4|vegetarian

Tangy and sweet, with the comforting,mild nuttiness ofwarmwheat berries,this salad makes a swell light wintertime lunch. Serve it with hunks of darkbreadforsoppingupthedressingasitmingleswiththefragrantaniseyogurt.Ifyoudon’thavetimetodraintheyogurtovernight,justuse1cup(240ml)Greekyogurt—itsconsistencywon’tbequiteascheeselike,butit’lltastethesame.

•Salt•½teaspoongroundaniseseeds•2 cups (480ml)plainyogurt (notnonfat),drainedovernight inavery-fine-meshsieve(toyield1scantcup/200ml)

•1bunchbeets(about1pound),topstrimmed•1cup(180g)rawwheatberries•¼cup(60ml)cidervinegarorredwinevinegar•2tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice•Freshlygroundblackpepper•1teaspoonhoneyoragavenectar•¼cup(60ml)oliveoil•¼cup(20g)freshparsleyleaves

Stir ½ teaspoon salt and the anise into the drained yogurt and set the yogurtcheeseasideintherefrigeratorforatleast1hourfortheflavorstodevelop.

Putthebeetsinasmallsaucepan,coverwithwater,andbringtoaboil.Lowertheheatandsimmeruntilthebeetsaretender,20to30minutes.Drainandcoverwithcoldwater;whencoolenough tohandle, rub thepeelsoff thebeets,dice

them,andsetaside.

Putthewheatberriesand2½cups(600ml)waterina2-quart(2-L)saucepan,cover,andbringtoaboil.Lowertheheatandsimmeruntilthewheatberriesaretender,about50minutes,adding¼teaspoonsalttowardtheendofthecooking.Whenthewheatberriesaretender,pilethebeetsontopofthem(noneedtostir),cover,andcookuntilthebeetsarejustheatedthrough,about4minutes.Draininacolander.

Whilethewheatberriesarecooking,inalargebowl,whisktogetherthevinegar,lemon juice, ½ teaspoon salt, pepper to taste, and honey. Drizzle in the oil,whisking to emulsify thedressing.Add thewarmwheat berries andbeets andtoss to combine. Serve warm, topped with dollops of cold yogurt cheese andsprinkledwithparsley.

YOGURT CHEESE: When I’m feeling semi-organized (but not on the ballenough to have been making my own yogurt), I’ll start draining a bigcontainerofyogurtas soonas Icomehomefrom thestorewith it.Thenit’sasimplematterofstirring insomesaltandseasonings (mincedfreshherbs;crackedblackpepper;gratedgarlic;groundfennel,cumin,ornigellaseeds) tomake a dip for flatbreads or cracker shards (like those on thispageandthispage),orforrawvegetables.

SPROUTEDWHEATBERRYSALADWITHAVOCADOANDPICKLEDREDONION

Serves2|vegan

Forsucha simplecollectionof ingredients, this salad reallypacksawallopofflavors,textures,andcolors—thechewy,nuttywheatberries;crisp,cold,brightpinkpickledonion;thegreen-yellowavocadothatbecomescreamyasyoutossitwiththewheat;andtheheatofthelittlebitsoffreshchile.It’snicespreadonabig,thickpieceoftoastedorgrilledrusticbread,orspoonedintoapita.

•2cups(330g)sproutedwheatberries(thispage)•½cup(80g)dicedquick-pickledredonion(thispage)•1hotgreenchile,seededandminced•3tablespoonschoppedfreshcilantro•1Hassavocado,halved,pitted,peeled,anddiced•Juiceof1lime•Salttotaste•1tablespoonoliveoil

Combinealltheingredientsinamediumbowlandstirtocombine.Theavocadowillbreakupabitandmakethesaladcreamy.

VARIATION

*Replacehalforallof thewheatberrieswithsproutedquinoa,orusecookedwheatberriesorquinoa.

SPICYBULGURSALADWITHPEACHES,JALAPEÑO,ANDMINTEDYOGURT

Serves2to4|vegetarian

Thisisaperfectmidsummersalad,idealforwhenyouhaveperfectlyripe,sweetpeaches,which are set against the heat of crisp fresh chiles and the crunchofpepitas.AbundantmintandthickGreekorotherstrainedyogurtwithatleastalittlefatcontentwillhelptamethechilesaswell.

•1cup(240ml)plainGreekyogurt•Juiceof1lime•1teaspoonsalt

•⅛teaspoongroundcumin•1½teaspoonsmincedfreshmint,pluswholesprigsforgarnish•3cups(570g)cookedmedium-grindbulgur(thispage),cooled•2ripepeaches,diced•1to2largejalapeñochiles,seededanddiced•2tablespoonspepitas,toasted

Inamediumbowl,whisktogethertheyogurt,limejuice,¾teaspoonofthesalt,thecumin,andmincedmint.

In a separate large bowl, toss the bulgur with the peaches, chiles, half of thepepitas,andtheremaining¼teaspoonofsalt.Transfertoservingplates,dolloptheyogurtmixtureoverthetop,scattertheremainingpepitasandthemintsprigsoverthesalad,andserve.

VARIATION

*Insteadofthepeaches,trythiswithhoneydeworcantaloupe.

CLASSICTABBOULEHServes4|vegan

I’mbynomeansopposedtoshortcutsthatinvolvefoodprocessors,butdon’tbetempted touseone tochop theherbshere:Thewhirlingblades tend to rip theherbsintounpleasantshredsratherthancuttingthemintonicecleanbits.Useaheavy,sharpknifeandalargecuttingboard,andworkoutthoseforearms!Anddon’tskimpontheparsley,whichbesidesbeingthemostimportantpartofatruetabbouleh, is an underappreciated source of vitaminsK,A, andC, aswell asfolateandiron.

•½cup(70g)rawmedium-grindbulgur•2medium-sizeripetomatoes•½smallsweetonion•½teaspoonsalt•Finelygratedzestandjuiceof1largelemon• 4 packed cups (320 g) stemmed fresh flat-leaf parsley (1 giant bunch),washedandspundry

•Afewsprigsoffreshmint,stemsremoved

In a heavy saucepan, bring 1 cup (240ml)water to a boil. Stir in the bulgur,cover, and remove from the heat. Let stand until the bulgur is almost tender,about 10 minutes, then drain in a fine-mesh sieve. Rinse under cold runningwatertocool,thendrainagain,pressingouttheexcesswater.Dumpthebulgurintoalargebowl.

Dice the tomatoesandaddthem,with their juices, to thebulgur.Diceandaddtheonionandstirinthesaltandlemonzestandjuice.Letstanduntilthebulgurisfullytenderandhasabsorbedsomeofthetomatoandlemonjuices,about30minutes.

Meanwhile,ona largecuttingboardwithasharpchef’sknife, finelychop theparsleyandminttomakeabout2cups(160g).Addtothebulgurmixtureandtosstocombine.Serveatroomtemperature,orcoverandrefrigerateforupto2daysandservecold.

VARIATIONS

*Usebabyarugulaorhalfarugulaandhalfspinachinsteadoftheparsley.

* Insteadofparsley,use1cup (80g)chopped freshcilantroand1cup (80g)choppedfreshThaibasil,andusethejuiceof2limesinsteadofthelemonzestandjuice.

*Add1seededanddicedcucumbertothesalad.

*Add2tablespoonstoastedpinenuts.

* Stir 1 tablespoon pomegranatemolasses or 1 teaspoon tamarind concentrate(availableinMiddleEasternandIndianstores)intothebulgurwhenyouaddthetomatoes.

BULGURSALADWITHBRISLINGSARDINES,MEYERLEMON,ANDARUGULA


Bynowmostofusrealizethatoverfishingandpoorlyexecutedaquaculturearesignificantproblemsthatmayverywellleadtothepermanenteradicationofthelarge fishmost loved in wealthier countries, and that it would behoove us toexpand our appreciation of those smaller wild-caught fish—like sardines andanchovies—thatmaturequicklyandareconsidered(asidefromboomsandbustsmostlyattributabletooceanwatertemperaturefluctuations)generallynotatrisk.Thesefisharealsoexceptionallyhealthful,highinbothessentialomega-3fattyacids (flax seeds,walnuts, and salmonareothergood sources) and calcium (acanofsardinesprovidesasmuchcalciumasatallglassofmilk).

Small,delicateNordicbrislingsardinespackedinoliveoil(anothergoodfat)are theones to lookfor,especially ifyou’renewto tinnedfish; they’remilderand cleaner-tasting than larger sardines that have been sectioned to fit in thecans. In this salad they’re doused with plenty of floral-scentedMeyer lemonjuice, regular lemon juice,andwhitewinevinegar forahitofacidity tooffsetthefish’srichness.

•Coarselygratedzestandjuiceof1Meyerlemon•Juiceof½regularlemon•2tablespoonswhitewinevinegarorChampagnevinegar•Salt•½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper•2tablespoonsoliveoil•3½cups(665g)cookedmedium-grindbulgur(thispage),cooled•1(3.75-ounce/105-g)canbrislingsardinesinoliveoil•2cups(85g)fresharugula

Ina largebowl,whisktogether theMeyer lemonzestandjuice,regular lemonjuice,andvinegar.Whiskinacouplegenerouspinchesofsalt, thepepper,andoil.Addthebulgurandtosstocombine.

Drain thesardinesandadd them,alongwith thearugula, to thebulgur; toss tocombine.Tasteandaddmoresaltifnecessary.Serve.

COUSCOUS,MELON,ANDCUCUMBERSALADServes4|vegan

I recently became enamored of the pretty taxicab-yellow-and-white-stripedsingle-serving-sizefruitssoldinAsianshopsas“Koreanmelons.”Theylookalittlelikewintersquash,butthefleshofripeonesishoney-sweetandjuicy,andtheysmellslightlyofcucumber;specimens thatarenotperfectlyripeareevenmoresimilartocucumber.Peelitwithavegetablepeeler,orjusthalveit,scoopout the seeds (although many people eat the seeds too, as they’re sweet andtender),andscrapethefleshfromtheskin.Ifyoucan’tfindtheselittlemelons,usechoppedhoneydeworcantaloupe.Ifyouareabletofindthem,getacoupleof extra—youcan alsohalve them, fill the center,withorwithout seeds,withcrushedicesprinkledwithalittlesugarordrizzledwithagavenectar,andeatitasa(very)lightdessert.

•1tablespoonsesameseeds•1tablespoonpepitas•2tablespoonsslicedalmonds•3tablespoonsChampagneorwhitewinevinegar•Juiceof1½limes•½teaspoonsalt,ortotaste•½teaspooncrushedredpepper•½teaspoongroundcumin•3tablespoonsoliveoil•3cups(480g)cookedwholewheatcouscous(thispage),cooled•½smallhoneydeworcanteloupeor1Koreanmelon,peeled,seeded,anddiced(about1½cups/255g)

•½Englishcucumber,withpeel,cutinto⅛-inch(3-mm)roundsorhalf-moons;or3Persiancucumbers,cutintorounds

•1jalapeñochile,seededandminced•½cup(40g)freshmintleaves

Inasmallheavysautépan,toastthesesameseedsovermedium-highheatuntilshiny andgolden, about 1minute, and transfer to a plate to cool. In the samepan,toastthepepitasandalmondsuntilthepepitasareswelledandthealmondsaregolden,about2minutes;addtothesesameseedsandsetaside.

Inalargebowl,whisktogetherthevinegar,limejuice,salt,crushedredpepper,and cumin. Gradually whisk in the oil. Add the couscous, melon, cucumber,chile,andmintandtosstocombine.Sprinklewiththetoastedseedsandnutsandserve.

SQUIDANDFARROSALADWITHMANGO,LIME,ANDBASIL

Serves4

I’ve recentlybeen looking forways tobringmore squid—a lean, inexpensive,abundant, and responsibly harvested protein—to my table. This SoutheastAsian–style saladwithmild, flavor-absorbing farro, sweet ripemango, chiles,andplentyoflimejuicemaywellmakesquidastapleatyoursaswell.Youcanfind frozen squid, or calamari, inmost good supermarkets and at any seafoodmarket,andit’sjustasgoodas(orevenbetter!)thanfresh.Tothawitquickly,submerge thewholepackage inacontainerofcoldwaterandset it in thesinkunderabarelydrippingfaucetforabout30minutes.

•1pound(455g)cleanedsmallsquid•1tablespoonvegetableoil•¼cup(60ml)freshlysqueezedlimejuice•2tablespoonsfishsauceor1tablespoonsoysauce•1to2freshhotredchiles,minced(seededifdesired)•¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper•4cups(672g)cookedfarro(thispage),cooled•1ripemango,peeled,pitted,anddiced•½smallredonion,diced•3sprigsfreshbasil,torn•2sprigsfreshmint,torn•Limewedges

Feelaroundinside thesquidbodies(the tubes)andpulloutanythingthatfeelseithersofterorharderthanthebodyfleshitself—anymembranelikestuffortheclear hard blade-like pin bone. Depending on how well the squid have been

cleaned,theremaybemoreorlessofthistodo,butinanycase,it’squickandeasy. Pull off the fins on the outside of the body, and cut the tentacles off ifthey’restillattached—discardthefins,whichare tough,butsavethe tentacles.Rinse everything well and pat dry with paper towels. Cut each body in halflengthwise,thenuseasharpknifetolightlyscoretheinsidesurfaceofeachonediagonallyevery¼inch(6mm),thenslicecrosswiseinto¼-inch(6-mm)strips.Alternatively,cutthebodiesinto¼-inch(6-mm)rings.

Inalargeheavysautépan,heattheoiloverhighheat.Addthesquidbodiesandtentacles and cook, stirring frequently, until just opaque throughout, about 1minute.Removetoaplateandsetasidetocool.

In a large bowl, whisk together the lime juice, fish sauce, chiles, and blackpepper. Add the farro, mango, onion, basil, mint, and calamari and toss tocombine. Serve with lime wedges, either immediately or chilled for up to 4hours.

WARMSPELTANDNEW-POTATOSALADWITHBACONANDDILL

Serves6

Spelt berries—and the similar farro,whichwould be a good substitute here—absorb flavors readily, so theyworkwell in a warm vinegary German potatosalad,where theysoakupthehot,bacon-enricheddressingjustas thepotatoesdo.Crispceleryandonion,andplentyofceleryleavesanddill, freshenupthedish. I couldeat thisasameal in itself,but itwouldalsobenicewith simplysteamedgreenbeansandapieceoffish.

•1pound(455g)newpotatoes,cutinhalfifverysmall,quartersiflarger•Salt•4ounces(115g)bacon,diced•1tablespoonoliveoil•½cup(120ml)cidervinegar•2teaspoonsgrainymustard•½sweetonion,diced•1ribcelerywithleaves,diced•2cups(390g)cookedspeltberries(thispage)•Freshlygroundblackpepper•2teaspoonsmincedfreshdill

Put the potatoes and a generous pinch of salt in a large heavy saucepan andcoverwithcoldwaterby1inch(2.5cm).Bringtoaboilandcook,uncovered,untiljusttender,8to10minutes.Draininacolander.

Whilethepotatoesarecooking,inalarge,deepsautépan,cookthebaconovermediumheatuntilcrisp,about8minutes.Removewithaslottedspoonanddrain

on apaper towel.Pouroffmost of thedrippings in thepan andwipeout anyburned bits. Return the pan to medium-high heat and add the oil, vinegar,mustard,onion,celery,spelt,andpotatoes.Seasonwithsaltandlotsofpeppertotasteandcook,stirringfrequently,untilheatedthroughandmostofthevinegarisabsorbedorevaporated,about3minutes.Foldinthedillandbaconandservehotorwarm.

FREEKEHANDFRISÉEServes4

Thisisahereticalbastardizationofsaladeniçoiseandsaladeauxlardons,whole-grainsstyle.Ilikethecrackedgreenwheatcalledfreekehherebecauseitsfaintgrassy,oceanicaromacomplementsthetunasowell,butregularcrackedwheator,really,anyotherwholegrainwouldworkwelltoo.Insteadofbaconlardons(ifI’mmakingasalad,itveryoftenmeansIdon’twanttohavetocookanythingfresh), I use similar-size strips of sun-dried tomatoes, whose texture, whensoftenedabitinthedressing,atleastvaguelyrecallsthatoflardons.

•6ounces(170g)Frenchgreenbeans,trimmed•¼cup(60ml)Champagnevinegarorwhitewinevinegar•1teaspoonDijon-stylemustard•¾teaspoonsalt•¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper•6tablespoonsoliveoil•6sun-driedtomatoes•6cups(240g)paleyellowfriséeorcurlyendiveleaves,washedandspundry

•½cup(40g)freshflat-leafparsleyleaves•½cup(70g)niçoiseorKalamataolives,pitted•2cups(360g)cookedfreekeh(thispage),cooled•2(4.5-ounce/130-g)canstunainoliveoil,drained•4largeeggs,hard-cooked,peeled,andquartered(seeNote)

Inalargesaucepanofboilingwater,blanchthegreenbeansuntiljusttenderandbrightgreen,about2minutes.Drainandtransfertoabowloficewatertocool,thendrainandsetasideintherefrigerator.

Inamediumbowl,whisk together thevinegar,mustard, salt, andpepper, thenwhisk in theoiluntil emulsified.Cut the sun-dried tomatoes into⅛-inch-wide(3-mm-wide)stripsandaddtothedressing;ifthetomatoeswerenotpackedinoil,setthemasidetosofteninthedressingforatleast15minutes.

Spreadthefriséeandparsleyonalargeservingplatter.Makepilesoftheolives,freekeh,tuna,eggs,andbeans;withaslottedspoon,transferthetomatoesfromthedressingtoapileinthefriséeanddrizzleeverythingwiththedressing.Serveimmediately.

NOTE:Tohard-cookandpeeleggs,puttheminasmallsaucepanwithjustenoughwatertocoverthem.Placeoverhighheat,coverthepan,andbringtoaboil.Immediatelyremovefromtheheatandletstand,covered,for8minutes(foracreamyyolk)or10minutes(forafirmyolk).Drain,coverwithcoldwater,andletstanduntilcoolenoughtohandle.Taptheshellalloverwiththebackofaspoon,thenpeelofftheshellstartingatthewiderend.Dipback into thecoolwater to rinse themoff, thenuse theeggsasdesired.

4MainDishes

Whole grains are so incredibly versatile and easy to use that you could findyourselfrelyingonthemasthemainingredientinthemaincourseatthesuppertableeveryeverlovingnight.Arisottoorfarrotto,asouporapastasauce,canbeonthestoveandsimmeringinminutes,andunlessIoverthinkit,whichIadmitIoftendo, itcangosomething like this:Turnon theburnerunderapanorpot,whichever is already on the stovetop, and glug in some olive oil to start

shimmering while you dice or slice an onion. Onion goes in the pan with asprinkle of salt to helpdrawout themoisture and soften the onion a bitmorequickly, and you smash a clove of garlic and add it, too.Then there’s a briefmoment of panic:What are youmaking, anyway? Here’s where you can getcreative. Add a spice or two to those now-browned onions (say, cumin andcoriandertotakeitinanIndiandirection;cumin,cayenne,anddriedoreganoforsomethingMexican),orjustgorightaheadandaddsomegrainsandliquid(farroor short-grain brown rice, a splash of wine, and stock for something Italian;millet, tomatoes,andwaterforthatIndianthing;quinoaoramaranthandstockforMexican).

For a soup, usemore stock.Check the refrigerator drawers for vegetables;maybeyou’ve stashedabagof leftoverdicedzucchiniorparsnips in there,orsomecubesofbutternutsquashthatdidn’tfitinthebakingpanwhenyouwereroasting them theothernight,orhalfabagofgreens thatareno longerprettyenoughforasalad.Addthehardvegetablesandsomeleftovercookedchickenorturkey,ordrainacanofbeansanddumpthemin.Addthesoftervegetablesorgreenstowardtheend.Whileit’sallsimmering,sendthekidouttotheyardforahandfulofherbs.Clearthedecks,getouttheplates,andpouryourselfanotherglassofwine.Soonthemilletorwhathaveyouwillbetenderandsupperwillbeready. And of course it’s all made even simpler if there are a few bags ofdifferentgrainsatthereadyinyourfreezer—noneedtothinkaheadoftime,justbreak up the grains in a sieve or colander, run them under cold water for aminute,andthey’regoodtogo.

SMOKYAMARANTHCORNCHOWDERServes4|vegan,glutenfree

As recently as a few years ago, I wouldn’t have dreamed of making cornchowder without bacon, much less white potatoes, but I’ve actually come toprefer a lighter, cleaner-tasting corn soup (maybe it isn’t even chowderanymore). Good milky sweet corn and a sweet potato make the soup a littlecreamy,andamaranthgivesthebrothbody.

•1tablespoonoliveoil•½onion,diced•½redbellpepper,diced•1ribcelery,diced•2tablespoonschoppedceleryleaves•½teaspoonchipotlechileflakesor¼teaspoongroundchipotle•2½cups(600ml)vegetablestockorwater

•⅔cup(130g)rawamaranth•2cups(340g)sweetcornkernels(from2or3largecobs,orfrozen)•1sweetpotato,peeledanddiced•Saltandcrackedblackpeppercorns•4sprigsfreshbasil

In a 3-quart (2.8-L) saucepan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add theonion,bellpepper,anddicedceleryandcook,stirringfrequently,for5minutes.Add the celery leaves, chipotle chile flakes, stock, amaranth, corn, and sweetpotato. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer, stirring occasionally,until the amaranthgrains are translucent and the sweet potato is very soft andfalling apart, about 20 minutes. Season with salt and plenty of black pepper.Servewithasprigofbasiltoppingeachbowlful.

CHICKENANDTOMATILLOSOUPWITHAMARANTHServes4|glutenfree

Here,roastedtomatillos,onion,chile,andgarlicarepureed,thensimmeredwithamaranth and leftover shredded chicken, and the resulting quick soup isshowered with cilantro for a bright, tangy, light meal. Do add a little crèmefraîcheorsourcreamifyouhaveit.Ifyoulike,insteadofusingalreadycookedchicken,youcangentlypoachoneortwouncookedchickenbreasthalvesinthebroth, then pull them out with tongs, let cool, and shred the meat beforereturningittothesoup.

•12ounces(340g)tomatillos,huskedandrinsed•½onion,cutinto4wedges•1hotgreenchile•2clovesgarlic,peeled•4cups(960ml)chickenorvegetablestockorwater•1cup(200g)rawamaranth•2cups(280g)shreddedcookedchicken•Juiceof1lime•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper•½cup(40g)choppedfreshcilantro•Crèmefraîcheorsourcream(optional;thispage)

Preheatthebroilertohigh.Linearimmedbakingsheetwithaluminumfoilandput the tomatillos,onion,chile, andgarlicon it.Broil, about4 inches (10cm)from the heat source, for 12 to 15 minutes, turning the vegetables over oncehalfway through, until nicely browned in spots. Using tongs, transfer thevegetablesandanyjuicesfromthebakingsheet toablenderorfoodprocessor

andpureeuntilsmooth.Pourintoalargeheavysaucepanandaddthestockandamaranth.Bringtoaboil,thenlowertheheatandsimmeruntiltheamaranthistranslucentandtender,about20minutes.Stirinthechickenandlimejuice,andadd salt and pepper to taste; bring to a simmer to heat through. Stir in thecilantro and ladle into soup bowls.Dollopwith crème fraîche, if desired, andserve.

AMARANTH-CRUSTEDBAKEDCATFISHServes4|glutenfree

Friedcatfish is a fine treat everyonce in awhile (it’s thekindofdown-homefoodtheKrissoffstendtoeatonlyonroadtrips;headingoutofGeorgiainanydirection, there’s bound to be good catfish somewhere along the way). Thisbaked fish, with a crisp-crunchy topping of tiny popped amaranth grains, isperfectaseveryday—home-cooked—fare.Servethefishfilletswithabigpileofspinachor baby collard greens sautéed in olive oilwith garlic on the side.Ortuck them into warmed flour tortillas with crisp shredded green cabbage,drizzledwithcremaorplainyogurtwhiskedwithalittlesalt.

•¼cup(½stick/55g)unsaltedbutter,melted,plusmoreforthebakingsheet

•1½cups(90g)poppedamaranth(thispage)•8(4-to5-ounce/115-to140-g)catfishfillets•Cajunspiceblendorfreshlygroundblackpepper•Salt•Lemonwedges

Preheattheovento375°F(190°C)andsetarackinthelowerthirdoftheoven.Butterabakingsheet.

Puttheamaranthinashallowdish.SeasonthefilletswithCajunspiceblendorpepper and salt to taste. Set each fillet in the amaranth and turn to coatwell,pressingtheamaranthgentlyontothefishsoitadheres.Arrangeonthepreparedbakingsheetanddrizzlewiththebutter.Bakeinthelowerthirdoftheovenforabout10minutes,untilfirmandlightlygolden.Servehot,withlemonwedges.

COLDCUCUMBER-YOGURTSOUPWITHDILLANDBARLEYServes2to4|vegetarian

Withastashofcookedbarleyinthefreezer,readytobedumpedintoasieveandrinsedundercoldrunningwaterforafewsecondstojustthawit,couldlunchbeanyeasier?

•1mediumcucumber,peeled,seeded,androughlychopped•1hotgreenchile,seededandchopped•1clovegarlic,smashed•1tablespoonchoppedfreshdill•1cup(240ml)plainyogurt•¾cup(180ml)coldvegetablestockorwater•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper•1½cups(240g)cookedhulledbarley(thispage),cooled

Putthecucumber,chile,garlic,dill,yogurt,stock,andsaltandpeppertotasteinablenderandpureeuntilsmooth.Stirinthebarleyandserveor,better,transfertotherefrigeratortochillforupto1daybeforeservingcold.Tasteandseasonwithmoresaltifnecessarybeforeserving.

PORCINIANDBARLEY“RISOTTO”Serves3or4|vegan

It’s alwaysbeenmybelief that risotto, ifmadecorrectly, needsneitherbutter,nor cream, nor cheese—the special rice should release enough starch in theuniquecooking-and-stirringprocesstomakethebrothcreamyandthick.Barley,however, needs a little help releasing its starches, so I just hit it with animmersionblenderforafewsecondstobreakupsomeofthegrains.Thoughitwouldn’tbevegan,youcouldalso(or instead)goaheadandaddalittleheavycreamorcrèmefraîche,andsprinklewithfreshlygratedParmesan.

•½cup(10g)driedporcinimushrooms•1cup(240ml)boilingwater•3cups(720ml)vegetablestock•2tablespoonsoliveoil•6ounces(170g)creminimushrooms,trimmedandsliced•1½teaspoonsfreshthymeleaves•½onion,thinlysliced•1clovegarlic,minced•1½cups(300g)rawhulledbarley•Salt•Juiceof½lemon

Put theporcinimushrooms in aheatproofbowl andpour in theboilingwater.Letsoakfor30minutes,thenscoopoutandchopthemushrooms;setaside.Pourthe soaking liquid through a fine-mesh sieve into a small saucepan, add thestock,andheatoverlowheat;bringtoasimmer,thencoverandsetaside.

Inaheavy,deepsautépan,heat1tablespoonoftheoilovermedium-highheat.Add the cremini mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until they have

released their liquid, the liquid has evaporated, and themushrooms are nicelybrownedaroundtheedges,about8minutes.Stirinthethyme,cookfor1minute,thenscrapeintoabowlandsetaside.

Inthesamesautépan,heattheremaining1tablespoonofoilovermedium-highheat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and nicelybrowned,about10minutes.Addthegarlicandcookuntiltender,about2moreminutes.Addthebarleyandstirtocoatitwiththeoil.Cook,stirringconstantly,until you can smell the barley, about 2 minutes. Stir in the chopped porcinimushroomsand the stockmixture.Bring to aboil, then lower theheat, cover,and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the barley is tender and most of theliquidisabsorbed,45to50minutes.

Seasonwithsalttotaste.Usinganimmersionblender,blendfor5to10seconds,just until the liquid remaining is thick and creamy. Stir well, then stir in thelemonjuiceandthecreminimushrooms.Cooktoheatthrough,andservehot.

VARIATIONS

*Foranonvegandish,removethecasingfromoneortwolinksofItalian-stylesausage and add the meat to the pan with the cremini mushrooms; cook,breaking it up with the spoon, until the sausage and mushrooms are nicelybrowned,thenaddthethymeandcontinuewiththerecipe.Drainoffanyexcessfatifnecessarybeforereturningthesausageandmushroommixturetothepan.

* Another nonvegan option is to stir some leftover cooked chicken into therisottoattheendofcookingandheatthrough.

SWEET-SPICEDROASTCHICKENWITHBARLEYANDAPRICOTS

Serves4to6

This dish was inspired by a barley salad on the wonderful Simply Recipeswebsitethatfeaturedrasal-hanout,aMoroccanspicemixture.Withsomebitterleaveslikearugulaoryoungdandeliongreensdressedwithalittlesalt,oliveoil,andlemonjuiceontheside,thismakesalovelyandspecialsupper.

FORTHEDRESSING

•2smalllemons•1½teaspoonssalt•1teaspoongroundcinnamon•1teaspoongroundcardamom•1teaspoongroundginger•½teaspoongroundcayenne•¼cup(60ml)oliveoil

FORTHECHICKEN

•1(3-pound/1.4-kg)wholechicken,spatchcocked(seeNote),or4pounds(1.8kg)chickenlegquarters

FORTHEBARLEY

•1½cups(300g)rawhulledbarley•¼teaspoonsalt•¼cup(25g)choppeddriedapricots•2scallions,thinlysliced•½cup(40g)choppedfreshcilantro

MAKETHEDRESSING

Coarselygratethezestfromthelemonsintoalargebowl.Juicethelemonsintothe bowl, picking out the seeds. Add the remaining ingredients and whisk tocombine.

MAKETHECHICKEN


Putthechickeninalargebakingdishorpan.Pourhalfofthedressingoverthechicken(reservetherestinthebowl),turningtocoatitonallsides,andarrangeskin side up. Roast for 45 minutes (for leg quarters) to 1 hour (for aspatchcockedwhole chicken), or until a thermometer inserted in a thigh reads160°F (70°C) and the skin is crisp andgolden.Let rest for 10minutes beforeserving.

MAKETHEBARLEY

Whilethechickencooks,combinethebarley,salt,and4cups(960ml)ofwaterinaheavysaucepan.Cover,bringtoaboil,thenlowertheheatandsimmeruntilthebarleyis tenderandnotraceofbrightwhite isvisibleat thecenterwhenagrain is cut in half, about 40 minutes. Drain well. Add the barley, apricots,scallions, and cilantro to the reserved dressing and toss to combine. Serve thewarmbarleywiththechicken.

VARIATION

* To make this a vegan salad: Omit the chicken (duh). Reduce the dressingquantities by half and add 1 drained (15-ounce / 430-g) can chickpeas to thesalad.Serveoverbittergreens.

NOTE:Tospatchcockawholechicken,whichhelpsitroastfasterandmoreevenlythanawholespecimen,useaheavyknifetocutdowneithersideofthe backbone and remove it. Turn the chicken breast-meat side up andpressdownon thecenterbonewithyourpalm to flatten thebird. (Somepeopleaddacoupleextrastepsinhere—cuttingoutpartofthekeelboneanddoingsomefancywingtucking—thatIfindtobeunnecessary.)

SOBANOODLESINDASHIWITHTOFUANDKABOCHASQUASH

Serves2or3|vegan

Thishealthful, refreshing soupcouldn’tbe simpler:Sobanoodles and tofuarepiled inservingbowlswhileabrothsimmersgently, flavoredwithkombuanddriedmushrooms.Cubesofbrightorangekabocha squash, stillwith thegreenpeelon,arecookedquicklyinthebroth,andallispouredintothebowlstoheatthenoodlesandtofu.

•1bundle(about3ounces/85g)driedsobanoodles•7ounces(200g)softorfirmtofu,diced•1scallion,thinlysliced•1(3-inch/7.5-cm)squarekombuseaweed, lightlyrinsed,tornintothinstrips

•4largedriedshiitakemushrooms,rinsed•¼smallkabochasquash,seededandcutintolargechunks•Tamariorsoysaucetotaste

Bringa largepotofwater toaboil.Addthenoodlesandstir.Return toaboilandcookuntil justaldente,about4minutes.Drain inasieveorcolanderandrinsewellundercoldrunningwateruntilcold;drainwell.Divideamong2or3deepservingbowlsandtopwiththetofuandscallion.

Inaheavy3-quart(2.8-L)saucepan,combine6cups(1.4L)water,theseaweed,andmushrooms.Bringtoaboil,thenlowertheheatandsimmerfor15minutes.With a slotted spoon, fish out the seaweed and mushrooms and remove anddiscardthemushroomstems;cut themushroomcapsinto¼-inch-wide(6-mm-wide)stripsanddividethemushroomsandseaweedamongtheservingbowls.

Addthesquashtothebroth.Bringtoaboil,thenlowertheheatandsimmeruntil

thesquashistender,6to8minutes.Withtheslottedspoon,transferthesquashtotheservingbowls.Seasonthesimmeringbrothwithtamari,thenladleitoverthenoodles,tofu,andvegetablesintheservingbowls.Servehot.

VARIATIONS

*Infallandwinter,usepeeledandchoppedbutternutoracornsquash—oranyhardwintersquash—inplaceofthekabochaandsimmeruntiltender(thesewilltakeabitlongertocookthankabocha).Orinsteadofhardsquash,usecarrots,parsnips,orsweetpotatoes.

*Insummer,blanchstripsofzucchinioryellowsquash,orsugar-snaporsnowpeas,inthebrothinsteadofthehardsquash.

* Stir ¼ cup (45 g) miso paste (any kind) into the simmering broth beforeseasoningwithtamari.

*Insteadofthetofu,pileasmallhandfulofshreddedleftoverroastchickenorpork(notvegan,obviously)ontopofthenoodles.Orpoachafewthinslicesofrawchickenbreastor flank steak in the simmeringbrothuntil cooked throughanddividethemamongtheservingbowls.

SOBANOODLESWITHSHRIMPANDSUGAR-SNAPPEAS

Serves4

I often forget about the bag of shrimp in the freezer, but maybe writing thisrecipedownwillhelpmerememberthatasatisfying,family-pleasingmealcanbeeasilyput togetherat the lastminute.Dumptheshrimp intoabowlofcoldwater and put the bowl in the sink under a barely dripping faucet; they’ll bethawedinabout15minutes.Ifyoudon’thavesugar-snappeasonhand(wedobecauseofmyrecenthummus-dipped-peaobsession),useacouplehandfulsoffrozen peas from the freezer, or some diced sweet peppers and zucchini oryellowsquash,instead.

•3bundles(about9ounces/255g)driedsobanoodles•1tablespoonvegetableoil•1teaspoonsesameoil•5shallotsor1smallsweetonion,thinlysliced•1inch(2.5cm)freshginger,peeledandjulienned•1pound(455g)largeshrimp,peeledanddeveined•8ounces(225g)sugar-snappeas,stringsremoved•¼cup(20g)freshbasilleaves•¼cup(20g)freshcilantroleaves•1cup(240ml)vegetablestockorwater•2tablespoonssoysauce,ortotaste•1lime,cutintowedges

Bringa largepotofwater toaboil.Addthenoodlesandstir.Return toaboilandcookuntil justaldente,about4minutes.Drain inasieveorcolanderandrinsewellundercoldrunningwateruntilcold;drainwellandsetaside.

Inalargeheavysautépan,heatthevegetableandsesameoilsovermedium-highheat.Addtheshallotsandcook,stirringfrequently,untilsoftandgoldenbrown,about 6 minutes. Add the ginger and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Add theshrimp,peas,basil,cilantro,stock,andsoysauceandcookuntiltheshrimpareopaque throughout and the peas are tender, about 4minutes.Add the noodlesandtosstocombineandheatthrough.Servewiththelimewedges.

RUSTICSHREDDED-BEEFTAMALEWITHFRESHCORNServes6to8|glutenfree

Thisisagooddishtosharewithclosefriends,asit’sbasicallyonehugetamalebaked inadish linedwithcornhusks (which Ibelieveadd that special tamaleflavor thatmightbemissing inother “tamalepies”). I’veevenmade thiswithtwo fillings in the same tamale, the shredded beef here and the greens fillingdescribedin thevariation:Justspreadeachononesideof the tamaledoughinthe baking dish and try to rememberwhich iswhichwhen you start scoopingintoit.Therecipeislong,butthisisasimpledishtoputtogetherifyoubraisethebeef inadvanceor ifyouhavesomeleftoverpotroastorroastpork(shredabout2½cups(375g)meat,seasonitwithcuminandgroundcayenneorgoodhotpaprika,andstirinalittlestocktoloosenthemixturetotheconsistencyofthemeatonabarbecueporksandwich).

FORTHEFILLING

•4driedguajillochiles(seeNotes)•1tablespoonoliveoil• 1 (2-pound / 910-g) boneless beef chuck roast, about 1½ inches (4 cm)thick

•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper•1smallonion,chopped•1clovegarlic,peeled•½teaspoongroundcumin

FORTHEDOUGH

•2cups(230g)masaharina(preferably“fortamales”)•½cup(50g)lardorvegetableshortening•1teaspoonbakingpowder

•¾teaspoonsalt• 2 cups (340 g) corn kernels (from about 2 large ears), fresh or frozen(thawed)

TOASSEMBLE

•12to14largedriedcornhusks(seeNotes)

MAKETHEFILLING

Wipe thechilescleanwithapaper towel,break inhalf, and remove thestemsandseeds.Ina6-quart(5.7-L)Dutchoven,heattheoilovermedium-highheat.Add the chiles and fry, stirring constantly, until crisp and fragrant, about 1minute.Remove to abowland set aside.Return thepot tomedium-highheat.Season the beef with salt and pepper and add to the hot oil. Cook withoutdisturbingfor8minutes,thenturnthehunkofbeefoverandaddtheonionandgarlic to the pot around it. Cook for 8minutes longer, stirring the onion andgarlicoccasionally.Add3cups (720ml)waterandnestle thechiles inaroundthebeef.Bring to a simmer, cover, and lower theheat tovery low.Cookat averyslowsimmeruntilthebeefcanbeeasilypulledapart,about2hours.

Removethebeeftoabowlandletcool.Letthecookingliquidcool,thenpouritandthechiles,onion,andgarlicintoablenderandblenduntilsmooth.Shredthemeatwith your hands or two forks, discarding any large pieces of fat.Hold asieveoverthemeatandpourinjustenoughofthepureedcookingliquidtocoatitwell,about1cup(240ml); itshouldn’tbesoupy(justaboutasmoistas thepulledporkonabarbecuesandwich); reserve theremainingcooking liquidforanotheruse.Stir thecumin into themeat.Tasteandseasonwithmoresaltandpepper. Set aside; or cover and refrigerate up to overnight, bringing to roomtemperaturebeforeusing.

MAKETHEDOUGH

Whilethebeefiscooking,combinethemasaharinaand1½cups(360ml)waterinamediumbowl.Inalargebowl,usinganelectricmixer,beatthelard,bakingpowder, and salt together until light and fluffy, scraping the sidesof thebowlonceortwice,thenbeatinthemasaharinamixtureaspatulafullatatimeuntilsmooth.Beatinabout¼cup(60ml)watertomakeaverysoftdough;itshouldbetheconsistencyofverysoftcookiedough.Beatinthecorn.Coverthebowlandputintherefrigeratortochillfor1houroruptoovernight.

ASSEMBLETHETAMALE


Rinse the corn husks and put them in a heatproof container and cover withboilingwater;letsoakfor5minutes.Removethecornhusksfromthewateroneatatime,patdry,andusethemtolinethebottomofa9-by-13-inch(23-by-33-cm)bakingdish,arrangingthemsotheyextendupallfoursidesofthedishandoverlappingtheirlongedges.

Spoonhalfofthedoughmixtureoverthehusksinthebakingdishandspreaditsmooth.Spread themeat fillingmixtureover thedough inaneven layer, thentop with the remaining dough, gently spreading the dough with a spatula ordampenedpalmstocoverthefilling.Laymorehusksoverthedoughtocoverit,folding theendsof thehusks from thebottomover them.Cover thedishwithaluminumfoil.Bakeuntilthehuskscanbepulledawayfromthedoughwithoutitstickingtothem,about2hours.Toserve,removeanddiscardthehusksfromthetopandscoopoutportionsofthetamaleatthetable.

VARIATION

*Tomakeavegantamale:Usevegetableshorteninginsteadoflard.Insteadofthe meat filling, use drained cooked black beans (this page) and/or sautéedturnip,mustard, or collard greens: In a large saucepan, bring 2 inches (5 cm)watertoaboilandadd1pound(455g)choppedgreens,pushingthemunderthewaterastheywilt.Cookuntiljusttender,5to15minutesdependingonthetype.Drain.Ina largedeepsautépan,heat1 tablespoonoilovermedium-highheat.Add1slicedonionandcook,stirring,for6minutes.Add1mincedclovegarlic,½teaspoongroundcumin,andagenerouspinchofcrushedredpepperandstirfor1minute.Addthegreens,½cup(120ml)water,andsalttotaste.Cookuntilmostof thewater isevaporated,about4minutes.Letcool, thenuse to fill thetamale.

NOTES:Guajillochilesaredeepburgundy,withshinyskin,usually4to6inches(10to15cm)long.They’reavailableinmostgrocerystoresintheLatinofoodssectionorwiththeproduce.

You’ll find dried corn husks near the guajillos; you can also usebananaleaves(availableinthefrozenfoodssectionofsomegrocerystoresandAsianorLatinomarkets):Diptheminapanofboilingwaterforafew

secondstosoften.

LONG-BRAISEDPORKWITHGRITSANDCILANTRO-CHILE-LIMESAUCE

Serves4to6|glutenfree

I’vemade twobraisedpork recipes—apicadillowithcinnamonand raisinsbyRick Bayless, and Lynne RossettoKasper’s Emilia-Romagna stewwith blackolivesandbasilservedoverpolenta—somanytimesthatovertheyearsthey’vegraduallymeldedtogetherintoone.Thisisafantasticdinner-partydishtoservewithasimplegreensaladandmaybealoafofgoodbreadfortearingoffpiecesat the table.The pork can bemade a day in advance and reheated just beforeserving—infact,itmaybebetterthesecondday.

Gritsandcoarsecornmealhavewidelyvaryingcookingtimesamongbrandsanddifferentgrinds;yourscouldtakejust15minutestocookormorelikehalfanhour,soifyouhaven’tcookedtheparticulartypebefore,leaveplentyoftimebeforesupper:Iftheyfinishearly,theycanbeeasilyreheated,withalittlemorewaterifnecessary,overlowheat.

FORTHEPORK

•1tablespoonoliveoil•2½ to3pounds (1.2 to1.4kg)country-styleporkribs (withorwithoutbones)orbonelessshouldermeat,cutinto2-inch(5-cm)pieces

•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper•1largeonion,diced•1clovegarlic,minced•1bayleaf•1teaspoongroundcumin•½teaspoongroundcinnamon•¼teaspoongroundcayenne•½cup(120ml)wine(whiteorred)•1(28-ounce/800-g)canwholetomatoeswithjuice,roughlychopped

•¼cup(40g)raisins

FORTHECILANTROSAUCE

•1cup(80g)roughlychoppedfreshcilantro(includingstems)•1hotgreenchile,roughlychopped•Juiceof1lime•½teaspoonsalt•¼cup(60ml)oliveorvegetableoil

FORTHEGRITS

•4cups(960ml)chickenorvegetablestock•½teaspoonsalt(orlessifthestockisalreadysalty)• 1 cup (160 g) raw speckled or other stone-ground coarse grits orcornmeal

MAKETHEPORK

In a 6-quart (5.7-L) Dutch oven or a large deep sauté pan, heat the oil overmedium-highheat.Seasontheporkwithsaltandpepperandaddittothepotinonelayer(dothisinbatchesifnecessary).Cookwithoutdisturbingforabout6minutes, until nicely browned on the bottom, then turn the pieces overwith ametal spatula and brown the other sides, turning occasionally; it should takeabout15minutestobrownthepork.Removetheporktoaplateandsetaside.

Returnthepottomediumheatandaddtheonion.Cook,stirringfrequently,untilnicelybrowned,about8minutes,thenaddthegarlic,bayleaf,cumin,cinnamon,andcayenneandcookfor1minute.Addthewineandstirtoreleasethebrownedbitsfromthebottomofthepot;simmerfor1minute.Addthetomatoes,raisins,andporkwith its juices.Bring toa simmer, thencook,partiallycovered,untiltheporkisverytender,about1½hours.Seasonthebrothwithsaltandpeppertotaste.

MAKETHECILANTROSAUCE

While the pork is cooking, put all the ingredients in amini food processor orblenderandpulseuntilsmooth.Setasideatroomtemperatureforupto2hours.

MAKETHEGRITS

Inaheavy2-quart(2-L)saucepan,bringthestockandsalttoaboil.Graduallywhiskinthegrits.Bringtoaboil,thenlowertheheatandsimmeruntilthegritsarethickbutstillpourableandthegrainsaretender,15to35minutes,dependingonthebrandandtype.

Spoonsomeofthegritsontoeachplateandtopwiththeporkanditssauce,andadrizzleofthecilantrosauce.

REDPOSOLEWITHPORKANDMUSTARDGREENS

Serves6to8|glutenfree

I’vebeenmakingmyhusband,Derek’s,favoritefoodintheworld,posolerojo—aNewMexicanredchilestewwithhominyand,usually,pork—foryears,andwhyIneverthoughttoaddpepperymustardgreensuntilveryrecentlyIdonotknow.Theyreallyfilloutthedishandmakeitacompletemeal.

•2ounces(55g)driedguajillochiles(about10medium;seeNoteonthispage)

•1tablespoonoliveorvegetableoil•2pounds(910g)bonelessporkshoulder,welltrimmedandcutinto1½-inch(4-cm)cubes

•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper•1smallonion,chopped•1clovegarlic,chopped•3cups(720g)cookedhominy(thispage)or2(15.5-ounce/445-g)cans,drainedandrinsed

•4packedcups(170g)choppedmustardgreens•Corntortillas,warmedinaskillet•Limewedges,slicedradishes,slicedscallions,and/orfreshcilantrosprigs,totaste


Wipethechilescleanwithapapertowel,thenpullofftheirstemsandshakeoutasmanyseedsasyoucan.Tearthechilesroughlyintothirdsandtoastinadrysauté pan over high heat, pressing down on them with a metal spatula or asmaller skillet and turning frequently, until blackened in spots. Place in a

heatproofbowlandcoverwithboilingwater.Setaplateontopofthechilestokeepthemsubmerged.Letsoakforabout15minutes,thenuseaslottedspoontotransfer thechiles toablenderor foodprocessorandpureeuntilvery smooth,addingupto1cup(240ml)ofthesoakingliquidifnecessary.Ifyouwanttobefancy,push thepuree throughamedium-meshsievewitha rubberspatulaanddiscardanybitsofpeelorseeds.Setthepureeaside.

InaheatproofDutchoven,heattheoilovermedium-highheat.SeasontheporkwithsaltandpepperandaddittotheDutchoveninonelayer(workinbatchesifnecessarysoyoudon’tcrowdthepot).Cookwithoutdisturbingtheporkuntilitisnicelybrownedonthebottomandreleaseseasilyfromthepanwhenyouturnitwithametalspatula.Turnandcookuntilmostofthesidesarewellbrowned,about 8minutes.Add theonion andgarlic and cook, stirring frequently, for 3minutes.Add3cups(720ml)water,thechilepuree,andseveralpinchesofsalt,stirtoscrapeupthebrownedbits,andbringtoaboil.Coverandtransfertotheoven.Bakeuntil thepork is very tender and canbe easilypulled apartwith afork,about2hours.

Addthehominyandmustardgreensandsimmeronthestovetopuntilthestemsofthegreensaretender,about15minutes.Tasteandaddmoresaltifnecessary.Servewithcorntortillasandwhateveraccompanimentssoundgoodtoyou.

VARIATIONS

* To make a green posole with chicken: Roast about 6 large poblano chilesunderthebroiler,turningtoblackenallsides;removethepeels,stems,andseedsanddicethechiles.Substitutetrimmedboneless,skinlesschickenthighsforthepork; brown the onion andgarlic in the pot first, then add the chicken,water,chiles, and¼ to½ teaspoon ground cayenne.Reduce the cooking time in theovento1hour.Insteadofmustardgreens,useamildergreenlikespinach,kale,oryoungcollards.

*Tomakeatomatilloposole:Usethechickenvariationabove,butinsteadofthepoblanochiles,broil6largehuskedandrinsedtomatillos,thenpureetheminafoodprocessororblenderandaddthemtothepotwiththechicken.

MILLETANDWHEATBERRYDALWITHCAULIFLOWERANDYELLOWSPLITPEAS

Serves6|vegetarian

I’vebeentinkeringwithcauliflowerdalforyears,andthisismycurrentfavoritecombinationofgrainsandsplitpeas.Thatsaid,feelfreetousewhatevergrainsyouhaveonhand:You’llwantat leastonefirm,chewygrain, likeryeberries,speltberries,oroatgroats,andonefillergrainlikequinoaoramaranthtothickenthemixture.Youcanalsoomitthecauliflowerandusedicedparsnipsoranotherhardvegetableinstead.

ThisrecipefeaturesatechniquecommoninIndianvegetariancookingcalledtempering:Justbeforeservingthedal,oilorgheeisheatedinaseparatesmallpan(traditionallyatinycup-shapedpanwithalonghandle,butasmallsautépandoesjustaswell),andspicesareaddedandcookeduntiltheysizzleandbecomefragrant.Thenthehotspicedoilorgheeisdrizzledinto thedal,andthepot isquicklycoveredandlefttostandforamomentsothearomasofthespicesfullyinfusethedal.Ifyoudon’thaveghee,youcoulduseNiterQibe(spicedbutter,thispage),plainclarifiedbutter,oroliveorvegetableoil.

•1½tablespoonsghee•1onion,diced• 2 teaspoons ginger-garlic paste (this page) or 1 teaspoon eachmincedfreshgingerandgarlic

•1teaspoongroundcumin•1teaspoongroundcoriander•¼teaspoongroundcayenne,ormoretotaste•½cup(100g)rawmillet,rinsed•1cup(200g)yellowsplitpeas,rinsed•½cup(90g)rawwheatberries,rinsed•½headcauliflower,cutintosmallflorets

•1½teaspoonssalt,ortotaste•¼cup(20g)choppedfreshcilantro•Juiceof1lemon•1teaspooncuminseeds•1teaspoonyellowmustardseeds

InaDutchovenovermedium-highheat,melt½tablespoonoftheghee.Addtheonionandcook,stirringfrequently,untiljustsoftened,about4minutes.Addtheginger-garlicpasteandcookfor2minutes.Addthecumin,coriander,cayenne,and millet and cook, stirring frequently, until very fragrant, about 3 minutes.Add6cups(1.4L)water,thesplitpeas,wheatberries,andcauliflower.Increasethe heat to high and bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer, stirringoccasionally,untilthesplitpeasandwheatberriesaretenderandthecauliflowerand millet are soft and falling apart, about 1 hour, adding the salt after 45minutes.Stirinthecilantroandlemonjuice.

Inasmallsautépanoverhighheat,melttheremaining1tablespoonghee.Addthecuminseedsandmustardseedsandcook,stirring,for30seconds.Scrapethemixture into the stewand immediately cover thepot.Let stand for 5minutes,thenstir,tasteandseasonwithmoresaltifnecessary,andserve.

GINGERYSWEETPOTATOANDMILLETSTEWWITHEDAMAME

Serves6|vegetarian

Thiscertainlysoundslikehippiefood,butthecurryspicesandtheheatoffreshgingermake itmuchmore interestingandbrighter thanyoumightexpect.Themilletistintedanappealingdeepyellowbytheturmeric,andthesweetpotatoesandchartreuseedamameaddhitsofcolorandtexture.

•1tablespoonoliveoil•1sweetonion,diced•Salt•2teaspoonsmincedfreshginger•½teaspooncuminseeds•½teaspoonturmeric•1cup(200g)rawmillet•2smallsweetpotatoes(about1pound/455g),peeledanddiced•Generouspinchofcrushedredpepper•1cup(155g)shellededamamebeans(frozenisfine)•Juiceof½lemon

InaDutchovenor largeheavysaucepan,heat theoilovermedium-highheat.Addtheonionandapinchofsaltandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilsoftandtranslucent, about 8minutes.Add the ginger, cumin, turmeric, andmillet andcook, stirring frequently, until themillet is fragrant, about 3minutes.Add thesweetpotatoes,crushedredpepper,1teaspoonsalt,and4cups(960ml)water.Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer until the millet and sweetpotatoesare tender,about20minutes.Smasha fewof thesweetpotatopiecesagainst the side of the pan to thicken the broth.Add the edamame and lemon

juiceandcooktoheatthrough.Seasonwithmoresaltifnecessary,thenserve.

VARIATION

*Insteadoftheedamame,use1(14-ounce/400-g)canchickpeas,drainedandrinsed.

MILLETMAKIROLLSWITHAVOCADOPUREEServes4|vegan,glutenfree

Millet,toastedandthensteameduntilfluffyandabitsticky,makesanexcellentsubstitute forwhite sushi rice in these simple rolls.Themillet’s fresh tortilla–likefragranceisanicematchforthejicamaandtheavocadopuree,especiallyifyouspikethepureewithsmokygrounddriedchipotles.

Fish-free maki rolls like these are perfect for packing into lunchboxes ortaking on a picnic; remember to bring a little container of tamari for dipping.They’dbegoodwithavinegaryjicamaandcabbageslawontheside.

•1cup(200g)rawmillet•Pinchofsalt•1teaspoonricevinegar•½teaspoonsugar•4sheetsnori•½cucumber,peeled,seeded,andjulienned•¼smalljicamaor1carrot,peeledandjulienned•¼cup(60ml)avocadopuree(below)•Tamari

Toast the millet in a dry heavy 1½-to 2-quart (1.4-to 2-L) saucepan overmedium-high heat, stirring frequently, until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add 2cups(480ml)waterandthesalt,bringtoaboil,thencoverandsimmeruntiltheliquid isabsorbed,about25minutes.Letcoolforafewminutes, thenturnoutintoalargebowl.Addthevinegarandsugarandtossgentlytocombine.

Lay a sheet of nori on awork surface, shiny side down andwith a long sideclosesttoyou.Spreadone-quarterofthewarmmilletmixtureoverthenoriinalayerabout¼inch(6mm)thick,leaving1inch(2.5cm)uncoveredatthelong

sidefarthestfromyou.Arrangecucumberandjicamastripsinarowneartheendclosest to you and dab them evenly with avocado puree. Lightly brush theuncovered1 inch (2.5cm)ofnoriwithwater.Beginningat the sideclosest toyou,rollupthenoritightlyandgentlypressthedampenednoritotheoutsideoftherolltoseal.Repeatwiththeremainingnori,millet,andfillingtomakethreemorerolls.Cuteachrollcrosswiseinto6piecesandservewithsmallbowlsoftamarifordipping.

AVOCADOPUREE

Makesabout1cup(240ml)|vegan,glutenfree

If you don’t have a mini food processor, just mash all the ingredientstogether aswell as you canwith a pestle or fork.Use leftover avocadopuree inplaceofmayonnaiseon sandwichesordollop it onto salads, orserveasadipforrawvegetables.

•2ripeHassavocados•Juiceof1lemon•½teaspoonagavenectar•Salt•¼teaspoongroundchipotle(optional)•2tablespoonsextra-virginoliveoil

Halvetheavocadosandremovethepits.Scrapethefleshintoaminifoodprocessorandaddthelemonjuice,agavenectar,½teaspoonsalt,andthechipotlepowder(ifusing).Processuntilverysmooth,scrapingdownthesideofthebowloccasionally.Throughtheholeinthelid,addtheoilinathinstream,continuingtoprocess.Drizzleinalittlewaterifnecessarytoyieldamayonnaise-likeconsistency.Tasteandaddmoresaltifnecessary.Theavocadopureewillkeep,coveredwithplasticwrappressedontothesurface,intherefrigeratorforseveraldays.

PINHEADOAT–CRUSTEDCATFISH,ROASTEDCAULIFLOWERANDMUSTARDGREENS,AND

LEMONCREAMServes4|glutenfree.SeeOats

Pinheadoats,whicharesimilar tosteel-cutoatsbutcontainsomeoats thatareground finer, like flour, make a foolproof crunchy-crisp gluten-free crust forpan-fried fish.Youcanexchange thecatfish for just aboutanycommonwhitefishhere—usealowerheatlevelunderthepanandalongercookingtimesforthicker fillets. Some good options include U.S. farmed tilapia, ocean perch,Pacific halibut, and line-caught Atlantic cod. Wild salmon would also bedelicious—justbesuretoavoidovercookingit.

•2packedcups(85g)choppedmustardgreens•3tablespoonsplus1teaspoonoliveoil•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper•½headcauliflower•4clovesgarlic,peeled•2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter•1largeshallot,minced•½cup(120ml)whitewine•1cup(240ml)heavycream•Finelygratedzestof½lemon•1tablespoonfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice•½cup(90g)rawpinhead(Scottish)oats•4(6-ounce/170-g)piecescatfishfillet


Ina largebowl, toss themustardgreenswith1 teaspoonof theoilandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Setaside.

Trimthecauliflowerandbreakitintoflorets.Putthecauliflowerandgarlicina9-by-13-inch (23-by-33-cm) baking dish, drizzle with 1 tablespoon of the oil,andsprinklewithsaltandpeppertotaste.Tosstocoatwiththeoil.Roastuntilthecauliflowerisverytenderandgoldenbrown,about40minutes.

Meanwhile, inasmallsaucepan,heat1 tablespoonof thebutterovermedium-high heat.Add the shallot and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally,until just starting to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the wine and cook untilreducedbyabouthalf,thenaddthecreamandlemonzest.Simmerovermediumheatuntilreducedandthickened,about6minutes,thenwhiskinthelemonjuice.Removefromtheheat.Seasonwithsalt to tasteandsetaside,coveredtokeepwarm.

Addthegreenstothecauliflowerandtosswithametalspatula.Sprinklewithalittle water and roast until the greens are wilted and tender and beginning tocrisp,5to7minutes.

Inanextra-largesautépan(ortwolargeones),heattheremaining1tablespoonbutterand2tablespoonsoilovermedium-highheat.Spreadtheoatsonaplate.Season the fish with salt and pepper and lay each fillet on the oats, pressinggentlysotheoatsadheretooneside.Putthefishinthepan(orpans),oatsidedown, and cook without disturbing until the oats are nicely browned and theopaquenesshasmovedaboutathirdofthewaythroughthethickestpartofthefish, about 4 minutes depending on the thickness of the fillets. Use a metalspatula to carefully turn the fish over and cook until just opaque throughout,about4minutes.Pilethecauliflower,garlic,andgreenson4servingplates,topwiththefish,andspoonsomeofthesauceovereverything.Serveimmediately.

SPICEDPAN-SEAREDWILDSALMONWITHQUINOAANDORANGEREDUCTION

Serves4|glutenfree

Look for wild king salmon in the summer months, when it’s in season;sometimesyoucanfinditatabetterpricethanfarmedsalmon—whichismuchless flavorful andenvironmentallyunsound—thougheven then, I still considerthewildsalmonaluxury.Itspreparationisbestkeptsimple.Whilemyhusbandanddaughterwouldhappilyeatasideofsalmon(each)withnothingmorethansaltandadrizzleofoliveoil,Ilikeitwithalightcoatingofspices,whichcrispupbeautifullyinaheavystainless-steelpanandkeepthefishfromsticking.Thequinoa(alsosimplydonewithjustalittlebutterandcilantro)andsalmonwouldbeexcellentwithalittlepileofsteamedandmintedsugar-snappeasalongside,orsomegarlickysautéedgreenbeansorflash-cookedspinach.

•1teaspoongroundcoriander•1teaspoongroundcumin•½teaspoongroundcinnamon•½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper•Finelygratedzestof1orange•4(4-to6-ounce115-to170-g)pieceswildkingsalmonfillet(¾to1inch2to2.5cmthickinthecenter)

•Salt•2tablespoonscoldunsaltedbutter•1smallshallot,minced•¾cup (180ml) freshly squeezedorange juice (fromabout2½Valenciaoranges)

•1teaspoonbalsamicvinegar•¾teaspoonsugar

•1cup(170g)rawivoryquinoa,wellrinsed•2tablespoonsoliveoil•¼cup(20g)tornfreshcilantroleaves

In a cup, combine the coriander, cumin, cinnamon, pepper, and orange zest.Remove any pin bones from the fish, then sprinklewith salt and rub about 1teaspoonofthespicemixturealloverthefleshside.Coverandsetasideatroomtemperaturewhileyoumakethesauceandquinoa.

Inasmallheavysaucepan,melt½tablespoonof thebutterovermediumheat.Addtheshallotandapinchofsaltandcook,stirringfrequently,untiltheshallotis soft and nicely browned, about 4 minutes. Add the orange juice, vinegar,sugar, and½ teaspoon of the spicemixture. Simmer briskly until the sauce isreducedandslightlythickened,about8minutes,thenstirin½tablespoonofthebutter.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotasteandsetaside.

Inaheavy2-quart(2-L)saucepan,combinethequinoa,1½cups(360ml)water,¼ teaspoon salt, and the remaining1 tablespoonof butter andbring to a boil,thenlowertheheat,cover,andcookuntil thequinoaistenderandthewaterisabsorbed, about 15minutes. Fluff with a rubber spatula, cover, and set asidewhileyoucookthefish.

In a large heavy sauté pan, heat the oil overmedium-high heat.Add the fish,fleshsidedown,andcookwithoutdisturbingfor2to3minutes,untilthebottomiscrusty.Useathinmetalspatulatoturnthefishoverandcookontheskinsideuntil the fish is cooked to your liking—ideally it should be still a littletranslucentinthecenter—2to3moreminutes,dependingonthethicknessofthefillets.Meanwhile,gentlyreheatthesauce.Pilethequinoaonservingplatesandscatterthecilantrooverit.Putapieceoffishoneachplateanddrizzlethesauceovereverything.Serveimmediately.

VARIATION

*Ifyoulike,beginthesaucebysearingafewthinslicesofspice-andsalt-dustedorange in a little butter in a hot panuntil caramelizedonboth sides, then addmore butter and the shallot and proceed as above, simmering until the orangeslicesaretender;servethesliceswiththefishandquinoa.

PAN-FRIEDTOFUWITHQUINOA,ALMONDS,ANDREDCHILESServes2|vegan,glutenfree

A simple, quickway touse leftoverquinoa, this canbemade in themorning,cooled,andpackedintoabentoboxforlunch—itwouldbeespeciallyappealingwithsomeslicedorangesnestledalongside.

•7ounces(200g)extra-firmtofu•2tablespoonsvegetableoil•2teaspoonsmincedfreshginger•1clovegarlic,minced•2largescallions,thinlysliced,greenandwhitekeptseparate•¼cup(30g)slicedalmonds•3driedredchiles,stemmed,brokeninhalf,seedsshakenout•1½cups(275g)cookedblackorredquinoa(thispage)•1tablespoontamari•Chilepaste(sambaloelek)forserving(optional)

Drain the tofu, cut it into¼-inch-thick (6-mm-thick) slabs, andarrange inonelayeronadoublelayerofpapertowels.Putanotherpapertoweloverthetopandpresswithyourpalmsuntil thepaper towelsaresoaked.Uncover the tofuandcuttheslabsinto½-inch(12-mm)squares.Setaside.

Inalargesautépan,heattheoilovermedium-highheatuntilitshimmers.Addthe tofu in a single layer and cook, turning occasionallywith ametal spatula,until both flat sides arewell browned, about 8minutes total. Add the ginger,garlic, scallionwhites, almonds, andchilesandcook, turningwith the spatula,untilthegingerandgarlicaretender,about3minutes.Addthescalliongreens,quinoa, and tamari and cook, turning with the spatula, until heated through,

about1minute.Servewithchilepasteontheside,ifdesired.

ROASTEDBUTTERNUTSQUASHWITHQUINOAANDSAUSAGEServes4|glutenfree*

This simpledish is theone thatmademe fallhard in lovewithquinoa,and ifyou’venevercookedwith thesupergrainbefore, I’dsuggest startinghere.Thewaythequinoaabsorbstherichflavorofthesausage(andyoudon’thavetousemuchofthelatter)andstickstothetenderchunksofsweetbutternutsquashisjustirresistible.

•1smallbutternutsquash(about1½pounds/680g)•2shallots•2tablespoonsoliveoil•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper•8ounces(225g)mildItaliansausage(3smalllinks),casingsremoved(seeNote)

•2sprigsfreshsage,chopped•1cup(170g)rawivoryquinoa,rinsedwell


Peelthesquashandcutitinto1-to1½-inch(2.5-to4-cm)chunks,scrapingouttheseeds.Putinabakingpanordishinonelayer.Peelandquartertheshallots,leavingtherootendsintact,andaddthemtothesquash.Drizzlethevegetableswith1tablespoonoftheoilandseasonwithsaltandpepper;tosstocoat.Roastuntil tender and lightly browned, turning the vegetables over once duringroastingifyouhaveachance,30to40minutes.

Meanwhile,inaheavy2-quart(2-L)saucepanovermedium-highheat,heattheremaining1tablespoonofoilandaddthesausage.Cook,breakingthesausageup into small pieces with a spatula, until the sausage is cooked through and

nicelybrowned,about15minutes.Drainoffanyexcessfat,ifnecessary.Returnto high heat and add the sage,½ teaspoon salt, and 1½ cups (360ml)water,stirring toscrapeupanybrownedbits.Add thequinoa.Cover,bring toaboil,then lower the heat and simmer until the quinoa is tender and the water isabsorbed,about15minutes.

Transfer the quinoa mixture to the baking pan with the roasted squash andshallots and gently fold to combine. Taste and add more salt and pepper ifnecessary.Servehot.

MOM’SQUINOAMEATPIEWITHOLIVEOILCRUSTServes6to8

Mymomisthequeenofmeatpies.WhenwelivedinMontana,shelearnedtomakeperfectButte-stylepasties (which isButte’sonlyculinaryclaimtofame,unlessyoucounttheporkchopsandwich).WhenwelivedinVirginia,shemadehand-held meat turnovers and full-size pies filled with shredded venisonshoulderandwhateverrandomvegetablesshehappenedtohave(mydadalwayswantedaboatofgravytopouroverhis).Thisisherlatestadditiontothegenre,withquinoa—darkorivorywillworkequallywell—insteadofthemoretypicalwhite potatoes and enrichedwith soft sweet potatoes and lots of still-slightly-crispcelery.

FORTHECRUST

•2¾cups(385g)whitewholewheatflour•¾teaspoonsalt

•⅔cup(160ml)oliveoil,frozenuntilsoft-solidandopaque•1tablespooncidervinegar•4to6tablespoons(60to90ml)icewater

FORTHEFILLING

•1tablespoonoliveoil•1onion,diced•1mediumsweetpotato,peeledandfinelydiced•Salt•2ribscelery,diced•1teaspoonmincedfreshrosemary,wintersavory,ormarjoram•½teaspoonceleryseeds

•½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper•1pound(455g)leangroundbeef•½cup(120ml)beerorwater•1½cups(275g)cookedquinoa(thispage)•4ounces(115g)freshmozzarellacheese,shredded(about¾cup)

TOASSEMBLE

•1largeegg,beaten

MAKETHECRUST

In a large bowl, combine the flour and salt.Dump in the oil andmix quicklywithyour fingertipsorapastrycutteruntil the largestbitsofoilareabout thesize of small peas. Make a well in the center and add the vinegar and 4tablespoonsicewater.Usingarubberspatula,quicklytosstogether,addingmorewaterifnecessary,untilthedoughholdstogetherwhensqueezedgently.Brieflykneadinthebowl,thendividethedoughinhalfandwrapeachinplasticwrap,shapingeachpieceofdoughintoasmoothdisk.Putintherefrigeratorwhileyoumakethefilling.

MAKETHEFILLING

Inalargedeepsautépan,heattheoilovermedium-highheat.Addtheonionandsweetpotatoandapinchofsaltandcook,stirringfrequently,untiltheonionistranslucent,about5minutes.Addthecelery,rosemary,celeryseeds,andpepperand cook, stirring occasionally, until the sweet potato is just tender, about 5minutes.Scoot thevegetables to theoutsideof thepanandaddthebeef to thecenter.Cook,stirringfrequently,untilthebeefisnolongerpinkandisstartingtobrown.Stirinthebeerandbringtoaboil.Foldinthequinoaandcooktojustheatthrough.Seasonwithsalttotaste.Transfertoalargebowlandletcoolforafewminutes,thenfoldinthecheese.Setaside.

ASSEMBLETHEPIE


Betweentwosheetsoffreezerpaper,waxedpaper,orplasticwrap,rolloutonediskofdoughto⅛inch(3mm)thickandabout12inches(30.5cm)round;fitit

intothebottomandupthesidesofa9-to10-inch(23-to25-cm)glasspieplate,repairing any tears as necessary. Pile in the filling and spread it evenly in thecrust.Rollouttheseconddiskofdoughandlayitoverthefilling;sealtheedgesofthebottomandtopcrusts(it’sokayifthereareafewsmallgaps—thefillingisn’ttoojuicyandwon’tleakout).Makeafewslitsinthetoptoallowsteamtoescape,thenbrushthetopandsealedrimwiththeegg.Bakeinthecenteroftheovenuntilnicelybrownedontopandbottom,50to60minutes.Cutintowedgesandservehot.

BLACKQUINOAWITHCHICKENCONFIT,MUSHROOMS,ANDQUICK-PICKLEDONION

Serves4|glutenfree

Thisdishhasseveralelements,butallofitcanbepreparedwellinadvanceandkept in the refrigerator; putting it all together to serve at a dinner party is asimplematter.Theconfit,coveredinitsownfat,canberefrigeratedforatleastacoupleweeks;youwon’tuseallofithere,butit’sgreattohavetheleftoversonhand—crispsomeupinaskilletandtosswithpastaorputitonasandwichwitha grind of black pepper and a slather of goodmayonnaise and a few leftoverpickledonions.Ifyou’dprefernottomaketheconfityourself,youcanpurchasepreparedduckconfitatspecialtygrocerystores.Youcancookthequinoauptothreedaysinadvance,andthepickledonion,ofcourse,canbekeptinthefridgeforweeks.

FORTHECONFIT

•4chickenlegquarters(about4pounds/2kg)•1teaspoonsalt•½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper•4sprigsfreshthyme•4sprigsfreshparsley•1½cups(360ml)oliveorvegetableoil,oracombination

FORTHEPICKLEDONION

•¾cup(180ml)cidervinegar•½teaspoonsalt•Pinchofsugar•Afewblackpeppercorns,coarselycrushed•Afewallspiceberries,coarselycrushed

•1bayleaf•1mediumredonion,sliced¼inch(6mm)thick

TOSERVE

•1navelorange•8ounces(225g)mushrooms,sliced•1teaspoonfreshthymeleaves•Salt•1½cups(275g)cookedblackquinoa(thispage)•Freshlygroundblackpepper

MAKETHECONFIT

Preheattheovento250°F(120°C).Or,better,readya6-to8-quart(5.7-to7.5-L)slowcooker.

Seasonthechickenalloverwiththesaltandpepper.Nestlethechickenina9-by-13-inch (23-by-33-cm) baking dish or in the slow cooker (you’ll have tostackthem,ifusingacooker,whichisfine)andtucktheherbsprigsaroundthechickenpieces.Pourtheoiloverthechicken;ifyouhaveanychickenfatsavedin the freezer, renderedorunrendered,goaheadandadd it to thebakingdish;thefatshouldalmostcoverthechicken.Coverwithfoilandbakeforatleast10hours,or,ifusingaslowcooker,coverandcookonthelowsettingfor8to10hours.Thechickenshouldbenearlycoveredwithoiland fatand isextremelytender;youshouldbeabletopullalegboneoutcleanlywithnoeffort.Uncoverandsetasideuntilthechickeniscoolenoughtohandle,thenpickallofthemeatoff thebones,discarding thebones, skin, andcartilagebut reservingallof theliquid fat. Ifnotusing rightaway,pack themeat inoneor twocontainersandstrain in theoilandfat tocover themeatcompletely.Letcool, thencoverandrefrigerateuntilreadytouse,upto2weeks.

MAKETHEPICKLEDONION

Inaglassmeasuringcup,combine thevinegar,½cup(120ml)water,and thesalt, sugar,pepper, allspice, andbay leaf.Bringa saucepanofwater toaboil,addtheonion,andblanchfor30seconds.Drainandputinacleanglassjarorothernonreactive container.Pour thevinegarmixtureover theonion to cover.Cover thecontainerandrefrigerateuntilverycoldandbrilliantpink,at least1

houranduptoseveralweeks.

ASSEMBLETHEDISH

Finelygrate½teaspoonofzestfromtheorangeandsetaside.Cutthepeelofftheorangeandcut thesegments fromthemembranes,workingoverabowl tocatchthesegmentsandjuice;squeezethejuicefromtheemptymembranesintothebowlwiththeorangesegments.Setthejuiceandsegmentsaside.

Inalargesautépan,heat1tablespoonoftheoilfromtheconfitovermedium-high heat. Add themushrooms, thyme, and a pinch of salt and cook, stirringoccasionally, until the mushrooms have released their liquid, the liquid hasevaporated, and the mushrooms are nicely browned, 8 to 10 minutes.Meanwhile, fish about 2 cups of the chicken confit from the surrounding fat,scrapingoffasmuchexcessfatasyoucan(alternatively,gentlywarmtheconfitanduseaslottedspoontoremovethemeatfromthefat).Addtheconfittothemushrooms,thenaddthequinoaandorangezest;cook,stirringandturningwithametalspatula,untilheatedthrough,about3minutes.Drizzlein3tablespoonsoftheorangejuiceandseasonwithsaltandpeppertotaste.

Moundthequinoamixtureonaservingplate.Topeachservingwithsomeofthecoldpickledonionand scatterpiecesof theorange segments anddropsof theremainingorangejuicearoundthequinoa.Serve.

BROWNRICEKAYU(JAPANESEPORRIDGE)WITHGREENS


In Japan, kayu—nothingmore than aporridgeofovercooked ricewith simplegarnishes—iscommonlyservedtothesick,theold,andtheveryyoung,muchaschicken soup is in this country. Like chicken soup, kayu is a comforting,warming bowl of goodness anytime you crave a meal that doesn’t make youthink toohard.Usuallymadewithwhite rice, likeChinesecongee, it’s just asgood (no, better) with heartier brown rice, and I’ve seen several recipes thatsupplementthericewithahandfulofadzukibeansforamoresubstantialdish.

Awild-herb-speckedversionofkayu,theinspirationforthisrecipe,isservedfortheJapaneseFestivalofSevenHerbs,orNanakusa-no-sekku,celebratedonJanuary7.Thefirstherbsoftheyearweretraditionallybelievedtobethemostnutritious—and indeed, in midwinter any greens would certainly have beenwelcome in thediet—butnow the austeredish is eaten less as a tribute to theherbs and more as a culinary respite from the indulgences of New Yearcelebrations.Includedamongthesevenwildherbsareturnipanddaikontops—try those with some wild dandelion greens if you can find them, or arugula,watercress, water spinach, winter parsley, or whatever you have on hand.Gomashio—saltedsesameseeds,sometimeswithseaweedforanextranutritiveboost—is the main seasoning here. Salty, tangy preserved umeboshi plums,whichareavailableinjarsatAsiangrocerystores,areanothercommongarnish.

•1cup(190g)rawshort-grainbrownrice,rinsed•2cups(85g)roughlychoppedtendergreens•4umeboshiplums(optional)•About4teaspoonsGomashio(thispage)

Put the rice and 4 cups (960ml)water in a heavy 3-to 4-quart (2.8-to 3.8-L)saucepan.Bringtoaboil,thenputthelidonslightlyaskew,lowertheheat,and

simmer,stirringoccasionally,untilthericeisverysoftandfallingapart,about1hour. The mixture should have a loose porridgelike consistency. Stir in thegreensandcookuntil justwiltedandheated through.Spoon into smallbowls,topeachwithanumeboshiplum,ifusing,sprinklewithgomashio,andserve.

FRIEDBROWNRICEWITHGREENBEANSANDBALSAMICVINEGAR


I’ve read so many otherwise reasonable food writers on the unsuitability ofbrownrice for fried rice that Ihad to includea recipe for somehere. Itworksperfectly,especiallyifyouusedthesteamingmethodtocookthericetopreventmushiness,andithassomuchmorecharacter thanfriedwhiterice thatIcan’tunderstandwhat thesepeopleareexpecting.(Perhaps lesscharacter?)Feelfreetousewhatevervegetablesyouhappentohaveavailable(orcookedmeat,ifyoulike). Fried rice is best made with leftovers, of course, and is endlesslyadaptable.

•2tablespoonssoysauce,preferablylight(not“lite”)Chinese•1tablespoonbalsamicvinegar•2teaspoonschilepaste(sambaloelek),plusmoreforserving•2largeeggs•3tablespoonsvegetableoil•1½cups(150g)dicedgreenbeans•1largecarrot,diced•½cup(50g)choppedscallions(about3)•1clovegarlic,minced•1inch(2.5cm)freshginger,peeledandminced•Pinchofsalt• 3 cups (585 g) cooked long-grain brown rice (see here), cooled andrefrigeratedforatleast4hoursorovernight

•1tablespoonchoppedfreshcilantro

Inasmallcup,stirtogetherthesoysauce,vinegar,andchilepaste;setaside.Ina

smallbowl,beattheeggstogetherwith1teaspoonwater.

Ina largedeepsautépanorwok,heat2 tablespoonsof theoiloverhighheat.When it shimmers, add the eggmixture; it should start to cook immediately.Afterabout10seconds,begintostiritgently,cookingjustuntilit’sbarelyfirm,about30secondstotal.Removetoaplateandsetaside.Returnthepantohighheat and add about ½ tablespoon of the oil. Add the green beans, carrot,scallions,garlic,ginger,andsalt.Cook,stirringconstantly,until thevegetablesare just tender, about4minutes.Drizzle in the remaining½ tablespoonofoil,thenaddthericeandcook,turningwithametalspatula,toheatthrough,about1minute. Drizzle in the soy sauce mixture, turn to coat the rice, then add thecookedeggandthecilantroandturnwiththespatulauntilheatedthrough,about1minute.Servewithmorechilepasteontheside.

1,001LENTILSANDBROWNBASMATIRICEWITHCUCUMBER-TOMATOSALAD


Years ago, before Derek and I were even a couple, we impulsively left NewYorkandmoved toanapartment inapowder-bluemansion inOldLouisville,Kentucky, in themiddleof the largestconcentrationofVictorianhouses in thecountry.Myparents,mybrother,andmygrandmothercametovisitthatsummer(probably in no small part to get the measure of this fellow I’d gone off toKentucky with all of a sudden), and we had lunch at a ’90s-funky semi-vegetariancaféonBardstownRoad.Iremembernothingofthatmealexceptthedishevocativelytitled“AThousandandOneLentils,”aclassicMiddleEasterndish also known as mujaddara: lentils and basmati rice spiced simply withcinnamon and cumin and toppedwith sweet caramelized onions. I’m thankfulthatmymomhadtheforesighttotakenotes.Whatfollowsisherrendition,mademany timessince theKentuckydays,and itmaywellbe themostcomforting,satisfyingmeal in this book. If you don’twant to serve the dishwith yogurt,serveatongue-tyingmealofmujaddarawithmuhamarra(thispage)thinnedabitwithwaterorvegetablestock.

Besure to let theonionssoftenandcaramelizeveryslowly—don’t rush it.Theybecomesweetandsilky,andthat’s important to thisdish.Youcanmakethe saladup to fourhours inadvance (coverand refrigerate), andyoucanuseprecookedriceandlentilsifyouwish:Justaddasplashofwatertothepanwhenyou add the rice and lentils to the celery, then stir, cover, and let everythingsteamandheatthroughforacoupleminutes.

FORTHESALAD

•3mediumtomatoes,cutintochunks• 1 regular cucumber, seeded and chopped, or ½ English cucumber,chopped

•¼cup(20g)choppedfreshcilantro

•1tablespoonoliveoil•3tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlimejuice•½teaspoonsalt•Freshlygroundblackpeppertotaste

FORTHERICEANDLENTILS

•1cup(190g)rawbrownbasmatirice•Salt•1cup(190g)brownorgreenlentils,rinsedandpickedover•2teaspoonscuminseeds•1tablespoonunsaltedbutter•2mediumonions,sliced(about1pound/455g)•3tablespoonsoliveoil•1cup(100g)thinlyslicedcelery•1½teaspoonsgroundcinnamon•2cups(480ml)plainyogurt

MAKETHESALAD

Inalargebowl,tossalltheingredientstogether.Setaside.

MAKETHERICEANDLENTILS

Rinse the rice inat least threechangesofwater,until thewater is clear;drainwellandputinaheavy2-quart(2-L)saucepanwith1½cups(360ml)water.Letsoak for 30minutes.Bring to a boil over highheat.Add½ teaspoon salt, stironce, then cover and lower the heat to very low; cook until all the water isabsorbedandthericeistender,withoutstirring,about15minutes.Removefromtheheatandletrest,covered,for5minutes.Fluffgentlywithaheatproofspatulaandsetaside.

Put the lentils in a heavy2-quart (2-L) saucepan and addwater to cover by2inches(5cm).Bringtoaboil,thenlowertheheatandsimmeruntiltender,25to30minutes.Draininasieveandsetaside.

Heat a small sauté pan over medium-high heat and add the cumin. Toast,

stirring,untilfragrantandashadedarker,about3minutes.Transfertoamortarandlightlycrushwithapestle.

In a largeheavy sautépan,melt thebutterovermediumheat.Add theonionsand a pinchof salt and cook, stirringoccasionally, until very soft andgolden,loweringtheheatandaddingasplashofwater ifnecessarytokeepthemfrombrowningtooquickly,about30minutes.Scrapeintoabowlandsetaside.

Inthesamesautépan,heat1tablespoonoftheoilovermedium-highheat,thenadd the celery and cook until just starting to become tender, about 3minutes.Addtheremaining2tablespoonsofoil, therice, lentils,cumin,cinnamon,andsalttotaste.Turnwithametalspatulatocombineandjustheatthrough,about2minutes.Transfertoaservingplatterandpiletheonionsontop.Servewiththesaladandlotsofyogurtforgenerousdolloping.

BROWNRICERISOTTOWITHSHRIMP,FENNEL,ANDAMARO

Serves3or4|glutenfree

Amaro is a not-too-sweet liqueur in the bitters category. Its character variessignificantly from producer to producer, but it’s always deeply herbal, almostmedicinal (in a goodway!),making it a naturalwith fennel: It brings out thelicorice scent and flavor of the bulb. If you don’t happen to have a bottle ofamarohangingaround,adashofbitters(suchasAngostura),Campari,ordryorsweetvermouthwouldworkwellasasubstitute.

•12ounces(340g)largeshrimpwithpeels•5to6cups(1.2to1.4L)vegetablestockorwater•½teaspoonwholeblackpeppercorns•1fennelbulb•1tablespoonoliveoil•1sweetonion•Salt•1cup(190g)rawshort-grainbrownrice•½cup(120ml)whitewine•Freshlygroundblackpepper•1tablespoonunsaltedbutter•1tablespoonamaro

Peelanddeveintheshrimpandputtheshellsinalargesaucepanwiththestockand peppercorns; set the shrimp aside in the refrigerator.Bring the stock to aboil,thenlowertheheatandsimmergently.

Cutthestalksoffthefennelbulb.Washandroughlychopahandfulofthestalks

andfrondsandaddthemtothesimmeringstock;reserveafewfrondsandchopabout1tablespoonforgarnish.Cutthebulbintoquarterslengthwise,cutoutandthinly slice the core, then cut the bulb into ¼-inch-thick (6-mm-thick) sliceslengthwise.

Inalargedeepsautépan,heattheoilovermediumheat.Addtheslicedfennel,onion,andapinchofsaltandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilsoftandgoldenbrown,about10minutes.Addthericeandstirtocoatwiththeoil.Addthewineand cook, stirring frequently, until it is almost all evaporated and absorbed,about3minutes.Holdafine-meshsieveoverthepanandladleinabouthalfofthesimmeringstock, to justcover thericeandvegetables (returnanysolids tothe saucepan of stock).Add salt and pepper to taste, cover the sauté pan, andsimmer, stirring occasionally and adding more simmering stock if needed tokeepthericejustcovered,for30minutes.

Uncover thepanandaddstock tocover ifnecessary.Cookuncovered,stirringmore frequently now, until the rice is tender and most of the liquid hasevaporated andwhat remains ismore opaque and slightly thickened, 10 to 15minutes. Stir in the butter until it melts. Gently fold in the shrimp and cook,stirring, until the shrimp are pink and opaque throughout, about 5 minutes,adding a little more stock if necessary. Sprinkle in the amaro and reservedchoppedfennelfrondsandservehot.

SHRIMPANDCHORIZOWITHBLACKRICEServes4|glutenfree

Seafoodwithcrumblesofbrightorangefreshchorizoclingingto it isaclassiccombinationalloverLatinAmerica.Herethesimplesauceismadewithgratedfresh tomatoes(youcanalsousecanned)andplentyofgarlicandparsley,andkept thin enough that it will seep down into the bed of risotto-like black ricebeneath.Black riceneeds tobe soaked for at least 4hoursbefore cooking, soplanahead.

•1cup(190g)rawblackrice•1½cups(360ml)chickenstockorwater•Salt(ifneeded)• 4 ounces (115 g) fresh chorizo (Mexican style; seeNote), plastic casingremoved

•1onion,diced•2clovesgarlic,minced•1pound(455g)largeshrimp,peeledanddeveined•2juicyripetomatoes,grated(about1pound/455g)or1¼cups(225g)crushedtomatoesplus¼cup(60ml)water

•¼cup(20g)choppedfreshparsley•Juiceof½lemon

Putthericeinasieveandrinseitwellundercoldrunningwater.Putinaheavy2-quart(2-L)saucepanandaddcoldwatertocoverbyatleast1inch(2.5cm).Letsoakfor4hours.Ifusing“Forbiddenrice,”there’snoneedtosoak.

Drainand return the rice to thesaucepan.Add thestock (oruse thewaterandabout¼teaspoonsalt).Bringtoaboil, thenlowertheheat,cover,andsimmeruntiltenderandmostoftheliquidhasbeenabsorbed,about40minutes.Turna

fewtimeswithaspatula(itwillnotreallybefluffy,butratherabitrisotto-like);coverandsetasideofftheheatfor5minutes.

Inalargeheavysautépanovermediumheat,cookthechorizo,breakingupthemeatwithaheatproofspatula,untilbeginning tobrown,about4minutes.Addtheonionandgarlicandcook,stirringfrequently,untiltheonionistranslucent,about5minutes.Addtheshrimp, tomatoes,andhalfof theparsley.Bring toasimmer and cook until the shrimp are pink and opaque throughout, 6 to 8minutes.Stir in the lemon juice.Tasteandaddsalt ifnecessary (youprobablywon’tneedany).

Scoopthericeintoshallowservingdishesandspoontheshrimpandsauceoverit.Sprinklewiththeremainingparsleyandserve.

VARIATIONS

*Insteadofshrimp,use1pound(455g)cleanedsquid(bodiesslicedintorings,tentaclescutintomanageablepieces),1poundwhitefishfillets(cutinto1-inch/2.5-cm chunks), 2 pounds (910 g) scrubbedmussels or littleneck clams, or acombinationofseafood.

* Insteadof the shrimp,use6well-trimmedboneless, skinless chicken thighs.Cutthemeachinto3or4chunksandaddthemwiththeonion.

NOTE: Fresh chorizo can be found inmost regular supermarkets. If yourgrocery storehas a refrigerated section in the “international” foods aisle,it’llbethere;otherwisecheckthemeatcases,wherechorizoisusuallynexttotheMexicancheeses.(WhytheyputMexicancheesesinthemeatcaseinsteadofwiththeothercheesesIdonotprofesstoknow.)

SOFRITO-BAKEDBROWNRICEWITHCLAMS,MUSSELS,ANDSHRIMP

Serves4|glutenfree

Sofritoisathick,intensemixtureofaromaticsand,usually,tomatothatservesastheflavorbaseforcountlessriceandbeandishesthroughouttheMediterraneanand Latin America. For this one-dish, one-skillet meal, you cook and stir theonion,garlic,tomato,andpaprikauntilitbecomespastyandashadedarker,thenstirinstockandbrownrice.Youcancookitallthewayonthestovetop,orstickthe skillet in the oven to bake while you wipe down your cutting board andknife,openabottleofwine,maybereadamagazinearticleorcorralthekids.Tofinishthedish,puttheskilletbackonthestovetop,topthericewiththeseafood—inafewminutestheshellfishwillsteamopenandthericeatthebottomoftheskilletwillcrispup,anddinnerwillbereadytoeat.

•1cup(190g)rawshort-grainbrownrice•2cups(480ml)chickenstockorwater•Pinchofsaffronthreads(optional)•1tablespoonoliveoil•1largeonion,diced•2clovesgarlic,minced•Salt•1largetomato•1teaspoonHungarianorsmokedSpanishpaprika•1pound(455g)smallclams,suchaslittlenecks,scrubbed•1pound(455g)mussels,scrubbed•8ounces (225g) large shrimp (if the tractsarecleanyoucan leave theshellson;peelanddeveinifnot)

•Choppedfreshflat-leafparsley

•Lemonwedges


Putthericeinabowlandrinsewellwithwater;drain.Inaglassmeasuringcup,combinethestockandsaffron,ifusing.

In a deep 10-inch (25-cm) ovenproof skillet or flameproof casserole orDutchovenwithalid,heattheoilovermediumheat.Addtheonionandgarlicandapinchofsalt.Cook,stirringoccasionally,untiltheonionistranslucent,about10minutes.Cutthetomatoinhalfhorizontallyandgratethefleshintotheskillet,discarding the skins left behind.Add thepaprika, seasongenerouslywith salt,increasetheheattomedium-high,andcook,stirringfrequently,untilthemixtureisthickandjamlike,8to10minutes.Stirinthestockmixtureandrice.Bringtoa boil, then cover and transfer to the oven. Bake until most of the liquid isabsorbedandthericeistender,40to50minutes;donotstir.

Arrangetheclams,mussels,andshrimpoverthericemixture.Covertheskilletand return to the stovetopovermedium-highheat until the clams andmusselshavesteamedopenandtheshrimparepinkandopaquethroughoutandyoucanhear the rice toastingon thebottomof theskillet,5 to8minutes.Discardanyclamsormusselsthatdonotopenaftertheothershave.Sprinklewithplentyofparsleyand scatter lemonwedgesover the top.Serve straight from the skillet,butremembertocoverthehandlewithapotholderbecauseit’llbehot.Setoutalargebowlforshells.

VARIATION

*Make thiswith chicken:Omit the shellfish.Reduce the stock to 1 cup (240ml). Just before you put the rice in the oven, season 6 to 8 well-trimmedboneless, skinless chicken thighs with salt and pepper and nestle them in theliquid.

BROWNRICESTUFFEDCABBAGEServes6to8|glutenfree

This isbasedononeofmymom’soldrecipes.She isevenmoreofa tinkererthanIam,anddoesn’tstopchanginghowshecooksadishevenaftershe’shitontheverybestwaytodoit.Onethingshedoesn’tleaveoutofthisnomatterwhat other adjustments she makes according to whim or availability, is thechoppedlemon,whichbecomestenderlittlebitsofintenseflavorintheslightlysweet, tart tomato sauce.That said, I sometimesmake itwith just lemon juiceand sweet spices to make an especially deep, cold-weather sauce (see thevariationbelow).

Iliketobakethestuffedcabbage,butthat’smostlybecausethisisthekindof dish that’s meant for cool, dark winter evenings and turning on the ovencoziesupthehouseandstowingaDutchovenfullofsupper letsyougetrightback under the afghan on the couch for a while; that said, it’s just as goodsimmeredonthestovetopifyouroven’soccupiedinsomeway.

•1mediumheadgreencabbage•1tablespoonoliveoil•1onion,diced•Salt•1(28-ounce/800-g)cancrushedtomatoes•½lemon,seededandchopped•2tablespoonsbrownsugaror1tablespoonhoneyoragavenectar•½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper•½cup(80g)raisins•3cups(585g)cookedbrownrice(seehere),cooled•1largeegg•1pound(455g)groundturkey

Cutthecorefromthebottomoftheheadofcabbage.Putthecabbage,coredsidedown, inadeeppotandpour in1 inch(2.5cm)water.Cover,bring toaboil,and cook for 5 minutes. Drain, then fill the pot with cold water to cool thecabbage.Carefullypulloff8whole large leaves, cutout anddiscard the thickbottomportionof the center rib (in a small triangle), and set the leaves aside.Chopenoughoftheremainingcabbagetomake3cups(270g).


InanonreactiveDutchovenor largesaucepan,heat theoilovermedium-highheat. Add the onion, chopped cabbage, and a pinch of salt and cook, stirringfrequently,untiltheonionandcabbagearetenderandlightlybrowned,about8minutes.Scrapeabouthalfofthemixtureintoalargebowlandsetasidetocool.

ReturntheDutchovenwiththeremainingcabbagemixturetomedium-highheatandstirin2cups(480ml)water,thetomatoes,lemon,brownsugar,½teaspoonsalt,¼ teaspoonof thepepper, and the raisins.Bring to aboil, then lower theheat and simmer for 10minutes; taste and seasonwithmore salt if necessary.Spreadabout½cup(120ml)ofthesauceinthebottomofa9-by-13-inch(23-by-33-cm)bakingdishorshallowcasseroleandsetaside.

Tothecabbagemixtureinthebowl,addtherice,egg,andturkey,alongwith1teaspoonsaltandtheremainingpepper.Mixuntil thoroughlycombined; in thebowl,divide the filling into8portions.Layout1wholecabbage leafwith thestemendfacingyouandtheinsidefacingup.Spoon1portionofthefillingontothecabbageleaf,gentlyfoldintheedges,roll itupawayfromyoutoenclose,thensetitseamsidedowninthebakingdish.Repeatwiththeremainingleavesand filling. Pour the remaining tomato sauce over the rolls. Cover the bakingdishwithaluminumfoil andbake for45 to55minutes,untilverybubblyandcooked through (the internal temperature of a roll should be at least 160°F /70°C).Servehot.

VARIATIONS

*Tocookthestuffedcabbageonthestovetopinsteadofintheoven:BringthesaucetoaboilintheDutchoven,thencarefullynestlethecabbagerollsinthesauce, gently nudging them so they’re mostly covered. Cover the pot andsimmer,withoutstirring,for45to55minutes.

* Instead of turkey and brown rice, try beef and barley or spelt berries (not

glutenfree).

*Tomakevegetarianstuffedcabbage:Increasethericeto4cups(780g).Chopenoughcabbagetomake5cups(450g)—amediumheadofcabbagewillyieldplenty—andscrapeabouttwo-thirdsofitintothebowlforthefilling.Use2eggsin thefilling. (Omitting theeggswillyieldavery tastyvegandish, thoughthefillingwill be looser.) Cover½ cup (10 g) dried porcinimushroomswith hotwaterandletsoakuntilsoft,thenfishthemoutofthewateranddicethem;addthemushroomstothefillinginsteadoftheturkey,andstrainthesoakingliquidintothesauceinsteadofusingplainwater.

*Winter-spicedsauce:Usethejuiceof½lemoninsteadofthechoppedlemon,andadd¾ teaspoongroundcinnamon,½ teaspoongroundginger,¼ teaspoongroundcloves,and¼teaspoongroundallspicetothesauce.

PERSIAN-STYLELAMB,BUTTERNUTSQUASH,ANDBROWNBASMATIRICEPILAF

Serves6|glutenfree

Thegoldencrustofbutteryriceatthebottomofthepot—thetahdig—isthebestpartofanyfancyPersianricedish,thisoneincluded,andwellworththeeffortofliningthebottomofyourpotwithbutteredparchmentandmixingpartoftheparboiled rice with yogurt to help bind it before piling in the remainingingredients. Sweetwinter squash and prunes are the other highlights here; thelamb can be omitted or replacedwith stew beef or boneless, skinless chickenthighs(inthelattercase,reducethebrowningtimeabit).

•1teaspoongroundcardamom•1teaspoongroundcinnamon•½teaspoongroundcumin•1tablespoonoliveorvegetableoil•1pound(455g)lambstewmeat(fromshoulderorleg)•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper•1onion,diced•1smallbutternutsquash(about1pound/455g),peeled,seeded,andcutinto1-inch(2.5-cm)pieces

•½cup(90g)pittedprunes•3cups(570g)rawbrownbasmatirice•1tablespoonsoftenedunsaltedbutterplus½cup(1stick/110g)butter,melted

•2tablespoonsplainyogurt•Pinchofcrushedsaffronthreadsorturmeric•Freshflat-leafparsleysprigs

Inasmallcup,combinethecardamom,cinnamon,andcuminandsetaside.Inalarge deep sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the lamb andsprinklewithsaltandpepper;cook,turningoccasionally,untildeeplybrowned,about 10 minutes. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until justtender, about5minutes.Add1 teaspoonof the spicemixture, 1 cup (240ml)water,1 teaspoonsalt, and thesquashandsimmergently,uncovered,until thesquashisjusttender,about25minutes.Stirintheprunes.

Whilethelambandsquasharecooking,inalargeheavysaucepan,rinsethericeinatleastthreechangesofcoldwater,untilthewaterisclearwhenyoupouritoff.Drainwell,returnthericetothepan,andadd6cups(1.4L)water.Bringtoa boil, then boil until the rice has swelled a bit but is still hard on the inside,about12minutes.Drain,rinsebrieflyincoldwater,anddrainwell.

Preheattheovento375°F(190°C).CutapieceofparchmentpapertofitinthebottomofaDutchoven.Lightlyoil theDutchoven,putintheparchment,andgenerouslygreasewiththe1tablespoonofsoftenedbutter.

Put2cups(330g)oftheparboiledriceinasmallbowlandstirin¼cup(60ml)water, the yogurt, ¼ cup (60 ml) of the melted butter, and ¼ teaspoon salt.SpreadthericemixtureinthepreparedDutchoventocoverthebottomevenly.Top with one-third of the remaining rice and sprinkle with some of theremaining spicemixture and¼ teaspoon salt. Spoon half of the lambmixtureovertherice,pilingitinthecenterofthericelayer.Topwithanotherthirdoftherice,moundingitinthecenter,andsprinklewithsomeofthespicemixtureand¼ teaspoon salt. Spoon the remaining lamb mixture over the rice, againmoundingit intoaroughconeshape(theideais tocreatespaceallaroundtheconeforthericetoexpandasitsteam-cooks),thentopwiththeremainingrice;sprinklewithspicemixtureand¼teaspoonsalt.

In a small bowl, stir together the remaining¼ cup (60ml)melted butter, thesaffron,and½cup(120ml)water.Drizzlethemixtureoverthetoplayerofrice.PutadoublelayerofpapertowelsoverthetopoftheDutchovenandputthelidontightly(thepapertowelscanstickoutabit).Putintheovenandbakefor1½hours,oruntilthericeistenderandtheliquidisabsorbed.

Peekatthebottomlayerofricetoseeifatahdig—acrustybrownedbottom—has formed. If not, remove thepaper towels andput theDutchoven, covered,over medium-high heat and cook until the bottom is crusty (you will hear it

sizzling), no longer than 7 minutes (you don’t want to risk burning theparchment). Spoon the pilaf onto a large serving platter. Scoop up the crustybrownedricefromthebottom(leavingtheparchmentbehind)andarrangepiecesofitoverthepilaf.Garnishwiththeparsleyandserve.

PORKANDRYEBERRYSTEWWITHCARAWAYANDSAUERKRAUT

Serves6

Ican’timaginemanythingsmorecomfortingonabitterlycoldwinterafternoonthantohavethishearty,deep-darkporkstewsimmeringawayonthestove.Youcouldtrytocooktheryeberriesrightinthestew,butIfindthatsometimesthesaltinastockcanpreventfirmergrainsfromsoftening,soIhedgemybetsandcook the grain separately (I usually just pull a hunk of cooked rye out of thefreezerandsubmergeitinthestewuntilitbreaksapartandthaws).

•1to2tablespoonsoliveoil•2pounds (910g)bonelesspork shoulder,well trimmed,cut into1-inch(2.5-cm)chunks

•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper•2carrots,peeledandchopped•2ribscelery,chopped•1onion,chopped•2bayleaves•1teaspooncarawayseeds,coarselycrushed•1tablespoontomatopaste•1cup(240ml)redwine•2cups(480ml)beef,chicken,orvegetablestockorwater•2½cups(440g)cookedryeberries(thispage)•2cups(280g)drainedsauerkraut

InaheavyDutchoven,heat1tablespoonoftheoilovermediumheat.Addhalfof the pork, seasonwith salt andpepper, and cook, turningoccasionally, untilwell browned on all sides; remove the pork to a plate and repeat with the

remaining pork, removing it to the plate as it browns; it should take about 15minutestobrownallthepork.Addmoreoilifneeded.

TotheDutchoven,addthecarrots,celery,onion,bayleaves,andcarawayandcookuntilthecarawayisveryfragrant,about2minutes.Stirinthetomatopaste,thenstir in thewine,scrapingup thebrownedbits fromthebottomof thepot.Bringtoaboil,thenaddthestock.Returntheporkandanyaccumulatedjuicestothepot,bringtoaboil,thenlowertheheat,cover,andsimmergentlyuntiltheporkandvegetablesareverytender,about1hourand15minutes.Stirintheryeberriesandsauerkrautandcookjust towarmthrough.Tasteandaddmoresaltandpepperifnecessary.Serve.

VARIATION

* Tomake a vegan rye berry and sauerkraut stew, omit the pork.Double thecarrotsandceleryandcookthevegetablesintheoilovermedium-highheatuntilsomeare lightlybrowned.Usevegetablestockorwater,andaddapeeledandchopped turnip, rutabaga,orpotatowhenyouadd thestock.Simmerforabout20 minutes, until the vegetables are just tender, then stir in the rye andsauerkraut.

CURRIEDCAULIFLOWERANDSORGHUMServes4|vegan,glutenfree

Youcoulduseanyof the firmergrains in thisquick, everydaycurry,but Idolike sorghum because it readily absorbs the flavorful sauce and the littlespherical grains sort of resemble broken-up cauliflower florets.With just twogreenchiles,thisisfairlymild—Iammostoftencookingforakidthesedays,soIleavethemwhole,whichmakesiteasyformetoscootthemontomyownplate—butfeelfreetoaddmorechiles,oragooddoseofgroundcayenne.

•1tablespoonoliveorvegetableoil•½onion,thinlysliced•1largeclovegarlic,chopped•1inch(2.5cm)freshginger,peeledandjulienned•1½teaspoonsmustardseeds•1teaspooncuminseeds•½teaspoonturmeric•2hotgreenchiles,slitbutleftwhole•½headcauliflower,separatedintoflorets(about14ounces/400g)•1(14-ounce/400-g)candicedtomatoeswithjuice•Salt•3cups(480g)cookedsorghum(thispage)•Juiceof1lemon•Choppedfreshcilantro

Ina large,deep sautépan,heat theoilovermedium-highheat.Add theonionand cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and nicely browned, about 8minutes. Add the garlic and ginger and cook for 10 seconds, then add themustardseeds,cuminseeds,turmeric,andchilesandcookfor30seconds.Add

thecauliflowerand½cup(120ml)waterandstirtocoatthecaulifloweraswellasyoucanwiththespices,thenaddthetomatoesand½teaspoonsalt.Coverandbring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer until the cauliflower is quitetender,10to15minutes.

Stirinthesorghumandbringtoasimmer,thenaddinthelemonjuiceandcooktoheatthrough.Sprinklewiththecilantroandserve.

WHEATBERRIESANDBLACK-EYEDPEASWITHTURNIPGREENS

Serves4asamaincourseor8asasidedish

Iused toput twopotson the stoveonNewYear’sDay:onecontainingabigmessof collardgreens andone full of hoppin’ John—black-eyedpeas cookedwithwhateverformofsmokedporkIhadinthefreezer,lotsofonion,andwhiterice(thericealwayscookedtogetherwiththeblack-eyedpeas,notseparately,sothe flavorsand texturesofeverythingmeld together intoacoherentdish).Theidea,atleastwheremymomgrewup,inwesternPennsylvania,wastoeatpooronNewYear’s soyou’ll eat rich the rest of theyear, though in theSouth thevarious parts of the traditional meal are more specifically totemic—collardsrepresenting papermoney, peas representing coins, pork representing…pork.But aftermaking it thisway,withpop-in-your-mouthwheat berries insteadofwhiterice,and tender turnipgreenscookedright in thesamepot, I’vedecidedthatnewtraditionshavetostartsomewhere.Andalsothatthishoppin’John—amealinitself—shouldmostdefinitelynotbeconfinedtoJanuary1.

•1cup(225g)driedblack-eyedpeas•6slicesbacon,diced•1largeonion,diced•1bayleaf•1cup(180g)rawwheatberries•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper•1bunchturnipgreens(1pound/455g),toughstemsdiscarded,coarselychopped

Rinse and drain the black-eyed peas. Put them in a heavy 4-quart (3.8L) potwithwater tocoverby1 inch (2.5cm)andbring toaboil.Cover thepot andremovefromtheheat;letstandfor1hour,thendraininacolanderandsetaside.

Put the bacon in the pot and cook, stirring frequently, overmedium-high heatuntilnicelybrowned,8 to10minutes.Remove thebaconwithaslottedspoonanddrainonpapertowels;setthebaconaside.

Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the bacon fat in the pot. Return the pot tomedium heat and add the onion. Cook, stirring frequently, until translucent,about 10minutes.Add 5 cups (1.2 L)water, the bay leaf, andwheat berries.Bringtoaboil,skimoffanyfoamfromthesurface,thencoverthepot,lowertheheat, and simmer until the wheat berries are just barely tender but still verychewy,about25minutes.Addtheblack-eyedpeas,1teaspoonsalt,andpeppertotaste.Bringtoaboil,thenlowertheheatandsimmerfor25minutes.

Tofinish,foldintheturnipgreensandbaconandcookoverhighheatuntilthegreensandblack-eyedpeasare tender, about10minutes. If themixture is toosoupy(someofthewaterwillcontinuetobeabsorbedbythebeansasthedishsits),carefullypouroffsomeof theexcess liquid.Tasteandseasonwithmoresaltandpepperifnecessary.Removethebayleafandserve.

VARIATIONS

*Tomakethisvegan:Omitthebaconanduse1tablespoonoliveoiltosautétheonion; sprinkle the onionwith about½ teaspoon smokedSpanish paprika andstirforafewsecondsbeforeaddingthewater.

*Usebrownriceinsteadofwheatberries.Afterthepeasareparboiled,addtherice and black-eyed peas back to the pot at the same time and simmer untileverythingistender,about40minutes.

WHOLEROASTEDRAINBOWTROUTSTUFFEDWITHZUCCHINICOUSCOUS

Serves4

Rainbowtrout isabeautiful,delicatelyflavored,responsiblyfarmedfish that’seasy to cook and servewhole—one troutmakes a decent-size serving for oneperson. It’salsoeasy toboneat theplate: Justpullback theskin fromthe topfillet(andmunchthebaconwrapping,ifyoulike)andgentlyliftthemeatfromtheribboneswithyourfork,thenpulluponthebackboneandemptiedribstoremovetherestofthebonesfromthebottomfillet.Troutisbestcookedsimply—as here, with mild couscous and zucchini—so the other ingredients don’toverwhelmit.Ifyouhaveextracouscous,justpileitontheplatterwiththefish.

•1tablespoonoliveoil,plusmoreforthebakingpan•1shallot,diced•1smallzucchini,diced•½cup(85g)rawwholewheatcouscous•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper•2tablespoonschoppedfreshbasil,pluswholesprigsforgarnish•4smallwholecleanedrainbowtrout(about2pounds/910gtotal)•6thinslicesbacon,halvedhorizontally•4thinsliceslemon,halved,pluslemonwedgesforserving

Preheattheovento425°F(220°C).Lightlyoilalargebroiler-proofbakingpanordish.Putakettleofwaterontoboil.

Inaheavy2-quart(2-L)saucepan,heattheoilovermedium-highheat.Addtheshallot and zucchini and cook, stirring occasionally, until the zucchini is justtender and beginning to brown, about 10 minutes. Stir in the couscous, ¼

teaspoon salt, and⅛ teaspoonpepper.Add¾cup (180ml)boilingwater, stirwell, thencover thepanand removefrom theheat; let standuntil thewater isabsorbed and the couscous is tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Fluff with a rubberspatula and fold in the chopped basil. Taste and season with more salt andpepperifnecessary.

Rinsethefishandpatdrywithapapertowel.Seasonlightlyinsideandoutwithsaltandpepper.Arrange3half-piecesofbacononacuttingboardwiththelongedgesslightlyoverlapping.Setafishdownontopofthem,perpendiculartotheslices.Usingaspoonoryourhand,stuffsomeofthecouscousmixtureinsidethecavity, along with 2 lemon-slice halves. Wrap the bacon around the fish,pressingontheoverlappingendssotheysticktogether,thenputthestuffedandwrappedfishinthebakingsheet.Repeatwiththeremainingfish.Roastuntilthefishflakeseasilywhenproddedwithasmallsharpknife,about15minutes.Tocrispthebaconontopabit,runthepanunderthebroilerforaminute.Donotovercook.Useaspatulatotransferthefishtoalargeplatterandservewithbasilsprigsandlemonwedges.

TURKEYANDBEEFKIBBEHServes8

ThisisasimplifiedversionofthetraditionalLebanesekibbeh,whichareusuallymade in one of twoways:Bulgur and raw beef are stuffedwith amixture ofcookedbeefandseasonings,formedintomini-footballshapes,anddeepfried;orhalfofthebulgurandrawmeatmixtureisspreadinabakingdish,toppedwiththecookedmeatmixture,andthenanotherlayerofbulgurmixture.Here,insteadoflayeringthemixturesIjustmixitalltogethertomakeasortoflargeflatmeatloaf—ithasallthefamiliarsweet-spicedkibbehflavor,butismucheasiertopulloff.Youcanalsosimplyformthemixtureintopattiesandpan-frytheminsteadof baking them—this will give you a crisper crust, but it requires a bit moreactivetimeinfrontofthestove.Theseareintenselyflavorful,bestservedwithasimplegreensaladandafluffywarmedpita.

•¼cup(½stick/55g)unsaltedbutter,melted•1onion,diced•2clovesgarlic,minced•1teaspoongroundcinnamon•1teaspoongroundallspice•½teaspoongroundcumin•¼teaspoongroundcayenne•¾teaspoonsalt•3½cups(665g)cookedfine-ormedium-grindbulgur(thispage),cooled•1pound(455g)groundchuck•1pound(455g)groundturkey•½cup(40g)choppedfreshcilantro•2tablespoonspinenuts(optional)

Ifmakingthekibbehasabakedloafratherthanaspatties,preheattheovento350°F(175°C)andbrusha9-by-13-inch(23-by-33-cm)bakingdishwithsomeofthebutter.

Inamediumsautépan,heat1 tablespoonof thebutterovermedium-highheatandaddtheonion.Cook,stirringfrequently, for3minutes, thenaddthegarlicandcookuntil theonionissoftenedandtranslucent,about2minutes.Transfertheonionmixturetoalargebowlandspreadouttocooltoroomtemperature.

Inasmallbowl,combinethecinnamon,allspice,cumin,cayenne,andsalt.

Totheonionmixture,addthebulgur,groundchuck,turkey,cilantro,andspicemixture. Mix with your hands (dampened in cold water) until thoroughlycombined.

Ifmakingaloaf,scrapethemixtureintothepreparedbakingdishandspreaditoutevenly.Usingadoughscraper(abenchknife)orametalspatula,cutinto16rectangles, cuttingall theway through.ScoreanX ineach rectangle,pressingthedoughscraperonlypartwaydownintothemeatmixture.Pushapinenut,ifusing,intothecenterofeachrectangle.Drizzlewiththeremainingbutter.Bakeuntilwellbrownedandcookedthrough,theinternal temperatureofthemeatis160°F(70°C),andtherectanglesareseparateenoughtowigglewhenyoushakethepangently,45minutesto1hour.Usingaspatula,transfertherectanglestoaplatterandservehotorwarm.

Ifpan-frying thekibbeh, stir thepinenuts, ifusing, into themeatmixtureandshape into 16 (3-inch / 7.5-cm)patties. In a large sauté pan, heat someof theremainingbutterovermediumheat.Workinginbatches,addthepattiesandfryfor about 5 minutes on each side, until well browned and cooked through,wipingoutthepanandaddingmorebutterasnecessarybetweenbatches.

BULGURANDREDBEANSTEWWITHSMOKEDPAPRIKA

Serves4|vegetarian

As a lover of meat-based chili of all sorts, I hesitate to call this a chili. It’sbrightertastingandperhapsmoresummerythanadark,long-simmeredchili,butotherwise similar to traditional ones, especially when all the fun toppings arepiledon.

•8ounces(225g)driedredkidneybeans,rinsedandpickedover•1tablespoonoliveorvegetableoil•1onion,diced•1clovegarlic,minced•1½teaspoonsgroundcumin•1teaspoondriedoregano•Groundcayenne,totaste(½to1teaspoon)•¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper•1(14-ounce/400-g)canwholetomatoeswiththeirjuice,pureed•1teaspoonsmokedpaprika•Salt•½cup(70g)rawmedium-orcoarse-grindbulgur• Shredded extra-sharp cheddar cheese; sour cream, crème fraîche, orplainyogurt;choppedfreshcilantro;limewedges;andthinlyslicedhotgreenchiles,totaste

Putthebeansinalargeheavysaucepanwithenoughwatertocoverby2inches(5cm).Bringtoaboil,boilfor2minutes,thenremovefromtheheat,cover,andletsoakfor1hour.Draininacolander.

Inthenow-emptysaucepan,heattheoilovermedium-highheat.Addtheonionandgarlicandcook,stirringoccasionally,untiltheonionistranslucent,about5minutes. Add the cumin, oregano, cayenne, and black pepper and stir for 1minute.Addthebeansandenoughwatertojustcoverthem(about5cups/1.2L). Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer until tender, uncovered,addingwaterasnecessarytokeepthebeanscovered,50to60minutes.

Add the tomatoes, smoked paprika, and ¾ teaspoon salt and simmer for 5minutes.Add thebulgurandsimmeruntil tender,about10minutes.Tasteandaddmoresaltifnecessary.Servetoppedwithcheese,sourcream,cilantro,limewedges,andchiles.

BULGURANDBLACKBEANBURGERSWITHCILANTROMAYONNAISEANDCARROTSLAW

Serves6|vegetarian

Youcanusejustaboutanycookedgrainhere.Barleyaddsawholelotoftextureandchewinesstotheburgers,whilebulgurorquinoaormilletwillmakeafiner-grained patty. Also feel free to substitute any variety of beans, from kidneybeanstowhitebeanstochickpeas.

The slaw,mayonnaise, andbread crumb–coatedpatties canbemadeup toone day in advance and kept in the refrigerator; put the patties on a waxedpaper–linedplateandcoverwithplastic.

FORTHESLAW

•¼cup(60ml)cidervinegar•1teaspoonsalt•½teaspoongroundcumin•Pinchofgroundcayenne•1teaspoonpreparedmustard•2tablespoonsoliveorvegetableoil•½smallheadcabbage•1carrot•1teaspooncuminseeds,toasted

FORTHEMAYONNAISE

•⅓cup(80ml)mayonnaise•¼cup(20g)choppedfreshcilantro•Finelygratedzestof1lime•Freshlygroundblackpeppertotaste

FORTHEBURGERS

•1½cups (255g)cookedblackbeans (thispage),or1 (13-ounce /370-g)can,drained

•½largecarrot,grated•¼cup(20g)choppedfreshcilantro•Juiceof½lime•4tablespoons(60ml)oliveorvegetableoil•1teaspoonsalt•½teaspoongroundcumin•¼teaspoongroundcayenne•½teaspoonsmokedpaprika•1½cups(285g)cookedfine-ormedium-grindbulgur(thispage),cooled

•⅔cup(70g)freshwholewheatbreadcrumbs•6wholewheatbuns,toasted

MAKETHESLAW

In a large bowl,whisk together the vinegar, salt, ground cumin, cayenne, andmustard.Graduallywhisk in theoil toemulsify.Coreandvery thinlyslice thecabbageintoshreds;addittothedressing.Peelthecarrotandusethevegetablepeelertoshaveofflongslices.Stacktheslices,cuttheminhalfcrosswise,thenverythinlyslicethemlengthwiseintoshreds;addtothecabbagemixture,alongwith the cumin seeds, and toss well. Keep, covered, in the refrigerator untilneeded.

MAKETHEMAYONNAISE

In a small bowl, whisk all the ingredients together, cover, and keep in therefrigeratoruntilneeded.

MAKETHEBURGERS

In a small food processor, combine the beans, carrot, cilantro, lime juice, 2tablespoonsof theoil, thesalt,cumin,cayenne,andsmokedpaprikaandpureeuntil smooth.Addhalfof thebulgurandprocessuntilcombined, then transferthemixturetoalargebowlandstirintheremainingbulgur.Shapeinto6pattiesalittlelessthan½inch(12mm)thick.Spreadthebreadcrumbsonaplateand

coatbothsidesofeachpattywithcrumbs.

Inalargesautépan,heattheremaining2tablespoonsofoilovermedium-highheat.Addthepattiesandcookuntilwellbrownedandheatedthrough,about1½minutesoneachside.Removetothebottomhalvesofthebuns,spreadwiththemayonnaise,andcoverwithslawandthebuntops.Serve.

OPEN-FACEDHUMMUSANDBULGURSANDWICHWITHLEMONVINAIGRETTE,

SPROUTS,ANDTOMATOServes4|vegan

I thoughtabulgur sandwich soundedabit strange—wheatonbread?—when Ireadanerroneous tweetaboutoneservedata trendy little sandwichshop inatrendyneighborhoodinBrooklyn(turnsouttheyactuallyusetrendyquinoa,notbulgur), but then I thought of pitas filled with tabbouleh, and started readingaboutotherMiddleEasternsandwichlikefoodsthatfeaturebulguranddecideditwaswortha try.Yep.Spreadgood sturdybreadwith averycreamyhummus,dress thebulgurwithavery lemonyvinaigrette,anduse theverybest, juiciesttomatoyoucanfind,andthiscouldbeyournewfavoritesandwich.

FORTHEHUMMUS

•1(15-ounce/430-g)canchickpeas,drainedandrinsed•Juiceof1½lemons•¾teaspoonsalt•1smallclovegarlic,chopped•¼cup(60ml)oil,preferably3tablespoonsvegetableoiland1tablespoonoliveoil

•Pinchofhotpaprikaorgroundcumin(optional)

FORTHEVINAIGRETTE

•Juiceof½lemon•¼cup(60ml)ricevinegarorwhitewinevinegar•½teaspoonagavenectar(optional)•½teaspoonsalt•¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

•2tablespoonsoliveoil

TOSERVE

•1cup(190g)cookedfine-ormedium-grindbulgur(thispage),cooled•4largeslicescrustybreadorbottomhalvesofcrustyrolls•2cups(70g)alfalfaorbroccolisprouts•1large,veryripetomato,sliced

MAKETHEHUMMUS

Put all the ingredients in a blender or food processor and puree the livingdaylightsoutofit,adding1tablespoonwaterifnecessaryandscrapingdownthesidesonceortwice.Transfertoanairtightcontainerandkeepintherefrigeratoruntilneededorupto1week.

MAKETHEVINAIGRETTE

In a medium bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, vinegar, agave nectar ifusing,salt,andpepper.Graduallywhiskintheoiluntilcombined.(Thisisaverytartvinaigretteandwon’treallyemulsify.)

ASSEMBLEANDSERVETHESANDWICH

Putthebulgurinasmallbowlanddrizzleinabouthalfofthevinaigrette,tossingtocombine;setaside.

Toast thebreadonone sideunder thebroiler (or on a cooling rack set over astovetop burner), then brush the other sidewith a little of the vinaigrette andtoast it.Set thebreadonservingplates,vinaigrette sideup.Spreadgenerouslywithhummus(youmaynotuseitall),thendividethebulgurandsproutsamongthe sandwiches. Drizzle with some of the remaining vinaigrette, top with thetomatoslices,drizzleagain(youmayhavesomevinaigretteleftover),andserve.

CRACKEDWHEATINSPICEDTOMATOSAUCEWITHEGGPLANTANDZUCCHINI

Serves4|vegan

Cracked wheat tinted red with paprika, simmered with a bit of tomato, andstudded with pieces of tender braised eggplant and zucchini is one of thoseheartyone-pandishesthatissosimpleitalmostshouldn’tbeasgoodasitis.

•3tablespoonsoliveoil•½mediumeggplant,diced•1smallredonion,diced•1clovegarlic,minced•½mediumzucchini,diced•½teaspoongroundcumin•½teaspoongroundcinnamon•½teaspoonhotpaprika•¼teaspoongroundcoriander•¼teaspoongroundcardamom•Salt•1cup(180g)pureedtomatoes(cannedcrushedtomatoesisfine)•1cup(160g)rawcrackedwheat•1(15-ounce/430-g)canchickpeas,drainedandrinsed(optional)•Juiceof½lemon•4sprigsfreshbasil

Inalarge,deepsautépan,heat2tablespoonsoftheoilovermedium-highheat.Add the eggplant and cook, stirring frequently, until browned and just tender,about5minutes.Addtheonion,garlic,andzucchiniandsautéuntiltheonionis

translucent and beginning to brown, about 5 minutes. Add the spices and 1teaspoonsaltandstirfor30seconds.Stirinthetomatoes,2cups(480ml)water,thecrackedwheat,andchickpeas,ifusing.Bringtoaboil,thenlowertheheat,cover, and simmer, stirringoccasionally,until the crackedwheat is tender andmostof the liquidhasbeenabsorbed,15 to20minutes;addmorewater if themixture becomes too dry or starts to stick to the pan. Stir in the lemon juice,taste,andaddmoresaltifnecessary.Topwiththebasilandservehot.

KAMUT,FETA,ANDGRILLEDGRAPESALADWITHFLANKSTEAK

Serves4

GoldenKamut ismarinated ina lemony,garlickydressingwithchunksoffetaandcrispspinachandtoppedwithslicesoftendergrilledflanksteakandsalty-sweetgrilledgrapesforasubstantialdinnersaladthat’sperfectforcompany.

•2largeclovesgarlic•Juiceof2lemons•1teaspoonsalt,ormoretotaste•1teaspoongroundcumin•½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper•¼teaspoongroundcayenne

•⅓cup(80ml)oliveoil•1largebunch(435g)seedlessgrapesonthestem•1(1½-pound/680-g)flanksteak•2cups(340g)cookedKamutberries(thispage)•1shallot,thinlysliced•4ounces(115g)fetacheese,cutinto½-inch(12-mm)cubes•½cup(40g)choppedfreshparsley•8ounces(225g)babyspinach

Finelygratethegarlicintoalargebowl.Addthelemonjuice,salt,cumin,blackpepper,andcayenneandwhisktodissolvethesalt.Graduallywhiskintheoil.Dipthegrapesintothemarinadeandsetasideinaseparatebowl.

Put thesteakinanonreactivebakingdishandpourabouthalfof themarinade

overit;turnthesteaktocoatit,thensetasidetomarinateintherefrigeratorfor1to2hours.

Meanwhile,addtheKamut,shallot,andcheesetothebowlwiththeremainingmarinadeandtosstocombine.Setasideintherefrigeratorforupto2hours,thenadd the parsley and spinach and toss to coat. Taste and season with salt ifnecessary.Setasideatroomtemperature.

Preheatacharcoalgrilltomedium-high.

Remove the steak from the marinade with tongs (discard any remainingmarinade) and grill until marked on both sides and medium-rare, about 5minutesperside.Removetoacarvingboard,coverlooselywithaluminumfoil,andletrestfor5minutes.

While the steak is resting, put the grapes on the grill and cook, turningfrequently,untilcharredbutnottoosoft,about3minutes.

Pilethesaladontoservingplates.Slicethesteakacrossthegrain(perpendicularto the lines running the length of the steak) into ¼-inch-thick (6-mm-thick)slices.Arrangethesteakandgrilledgrapesoverthesalads.Serve.

VARIATION

* To make this vegetarian: Omit the steak (obviously), but don’t adjust theamountofmarinade/dressing.Add3cups(540g)cookedanddrainedredkidneybeanstothesaladwiththeKamut.

WHOLEWHEATPASTAWITHROASTEDREDPEPPERANDGARLICSAUCEANDPINENUTS


Go ahead andmake all of the roasted red pepper and garlic sauce—it’s verymuchlikeabreadlessromesco—andsavetherestinthefreezer(whereit’llkeepforseveralweeks)orrefrigerator(whereit’llkeepforseveraldays).Warmitup,tossitwithcookedfarrooranotherheartygrain,addasqueezeoflemonandsaltandcrackedblackpeppertotaste,alongwithsometornfreshbasil leaves,anddollopwiththickyogurtforasimpledinner.

FORTHESAUCE(MAKESABOUT3CUPS/720ML)

•4largeredbellpeppers•2wholeheadsgarlic•6tablespoons(85ml)oliveoil•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper•1cup(135g)pinenutsorchoppedblanchedalmonds,toasted•1tablespoonsherryvinegar

FORTHEPASTA

•Salt•1pound(455g)driedwholewheatpennerigateorothershortpasta•¼cup(60ml)heavycream•Freshlygroundblackpepper•Handfuloffreshbasilsprigs,torn•3tablespoonspinenuts,toasted

MAKETHESAUCE


Lineabakingsheetordishwithaluminumfoil.Putthepeppersonthefoilandput themintheoven.Cut theheadsofgarlichorizontallyinhalfandput themtogetheronapieceoffoil.Drizzle2tablespoonsoftheoilontothesplitgarlicand sprinkle with salt and black pepper; gather the foil into a package andsqueeze to seal. Put on the baking sheet next to the peppers. Roast the garlicuntil the cloves are very soft and beginning to caramelize, about 40minutes;roast thepeppers, turningoccasionallyso theskinsblisterevenly,until they’recollapsedandsoft,about1hour.

Letthegarliccool,thensqueezetheclovesfromtheskinsintoablender.Letthepeppers cool, then rub off the skins, cut the peppers in half, and pull out theseeds and stems; put the pepper flesh in the blender with the garlic. Add theremaining4 tablespoons(55ml)oil, thepinenuts,vinegar,1 teaspoonofsalt,and 2 tablespoons of water, and puree until smooth. Transfer half of it to asealablecontainerandreserveforanotheruse;itwillkeepintherefrigeratorforupto1weekorinthefreezerforseveralweeks.

MAKETHEPASTA

Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoaboil.Addthepastaandstirgently.Bringtoaboilandboiluntiljustaldente,about10minutes.Draininacolander.

Pourthesauceintothepastapotandheatovermediumheatuntilhot,thenaddthe cream, salt and pepper to taste, the pasta, and basil. Toss to combine.Sprinklewiththepinenutsandserve.

HOMEMADESPELTPASTAMakesenoughfor2or3heartyservings|vegetarian

I confess I don’t make fresh pasta all that often, but every time I do I’mreminded how easy it is.When you have a hankering for fresh noodles, youmightconsidertryingthisall-speltversion;speltcontainslessglutenthanwheatandistoleratedbymanypeoplewhoaresensitivetogluten.Thatsaid,youcanreplacethespeltflourherewithwholewheatflour,whitewholewheatflour,oracombination.

•2cups(225g)wholespeltflour,plusmoreforkneading•¼teaspoonsalt•2largeeggs•1teaspoonoliveoil

TOCOOKANDSERVE:

•Salt•1tablespoonoliveoil•Sauceofyourchoice(seethispageforideas)

In a large bowl (or in the bowl of a standmixer fittedwith the dough hook),combinetheflourandsalt.Addtheeggs,oil,andupto3tablespoonswatertomake a firm dough. Turn out onto a lightly floured counter and knead for 5minutes,oruntilsmooth(orcontinuetomixwiththedoughhook).Coverwithacleanclothorapieceofplasticwrapandletrestfor15minutes.

Divide the dough into 4 pieces and pass each through a pastamachine to thesecond-or third-thinnest setting, or roll it outwith a rolling pin as thin as youcan, flouring the sheetofdoughwell.Sprinklewithmore flourand foldonce,thenuseapizzawheelorsharpchef’sknifetocutinto¼-or⅛-inch-wide(6-or

3-mm-wide) fettucine-type noodles, gently separating them and piling themloosely on a piece of flouredwaxed paper. (The dough is too delicate to foldmore than once, or to hang to dry.) Let air-dry for about 30 minutes beforecooking.

TOCOOKANDSERVE

Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoaboil.Addthepastaandstirgently.Bringtoaboilandboilfor2minutes.Drainandtosswiththeoil,thenwithsauce.

SAUCEIDEASFORHOMEMADESPELTPASTAORWHOLEWHEATDRIEDPASTA

Makesenoughsaucefor1pound(455g)pasta

Wholegrainpasta,whetherpurchasedorhomemade, isbestwithhearty,deeplyflavorfulsaucesratherthandelicatecreamorlightwinesaucesthatcan be overwhelmed by the nutty flavor of the noodles themselves.Tomato-or red pepper–based sauces work well, as do simple nut orpestoliketreatments.Andifyoureallywanttohighlightaparticularpasta,prepareitassimplyaspossible:Heatplentyofgoodoliveoilinaheavysautépan,addgarlic,crackedblackpepper,andsalt;tosswithcookedanddrained pasta and a little of its cookingwater; and serve showeredwithfreshlygratedParmesan.

EGGPLANT,BASIL,RICOTTA,ANDTOMATO

Dice½ eggplant (with orwithout peel) and lightly salt it; let drain in acolander;rinseanddrainwell.Heat2tablespoonsoliveoilinadeepsautépanovermediumheatandaddtheeggplant.Cook,turningfrequentlywithametalspatula,untilnicelybrownedandtender,12to15minutes(lowertheheatiftheeggplantbrownstooquickly).Mince2clovesgarlicandaddthem;cook for3minutes.Add1 (14-ounce /400-g)candiced tomatoeswiththeirjuices(orabout2cups/360gchoppedfreshtomatoes),2torn-up sprigs fresh basil, and salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste.Cook, stirring frequently, until boiling and heated through, about 2minutes.Addabout6tablespoonsizedollopsofricottaandthecookedanddrainedpastaandtossgentlytoheatthrough.Servewithanextragrindofpepper.

TOASTEDWALNUTANDPARSLEYSAUCE

Inalargeheavysautépan,toast1cup(120g)walnutsovermedium-highheat until fragrant and just colored. Let cool, then pulse in amini foodprocessoruntil coarselyground.Add1 chopped clovegarlic,¼cup (60ml) olive oil,¼ cup (60ml) heavy cream,½ cup (40 g) chopped freshparsley,andsaltandfreshlygroundblackpepper to tasteandpulseuntilfairly smooth.Transfer to a large bowl and add the cooked and drainedpasta,alongwithalittleofthehotpastacookingwater,andtosstocoat.ServewithParmesanshavedoverthetop.

PATRICIAWELLS’SMEATANDCELERYSAUCE

Finelydice3largeribsceleryand1smallonion.Putinalargesautépanwith1tablespoonoliveoil,thefinelychoppedleavesof1bunchcelery,⅓cup (30 g) finely chopped flat-leaf parsley, and 1 bay leaf. Sauté overmedium-high heat until the vegetables are just starting to soften, 4 to 5minutes, then scoot everything to the edges of the pan and add about 1pound(455g)leangroundbeeftothecenter.Cookuntilnolongerpink,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andstirin1(28-ounce/800g)canofcrushedtomatoes.Coverandsimmeroverlowheatforabout15minutes.Putthecooked and drained pasta in a large bowl and toss with a couple bigspoonfulsofthesauce(youmaynotneeditall;itkeepsintherefrigeratorandreheatswellfordays).

FARROWITHROASTCHICKEN,BROCCOLIRABE,ANDCRISPFRIEDLEMON

Serves4

Icouldhappilyeatbitter,tender,garlickybraisedbroccolirabeeverydayofmylife, especially if every once in a while it were in a dish like this, with pan-crisped lemon roast chickenandcreamy farro andgarnishedwith crisp lightlyfried slicesofwhole lemon.Mostof the elementsof thedish canbepreparedwellinadvance:Thechickencanberoasted,thebroccolirabeblanched,andthefarrocookedacoupledaysaheadoftimeandkeptintherefrigerator,soallyouhave todoat the lastminute is fry the lemonsandassembleeverything in thesamesautépan.

FORTHECHICKEN

•1(3½-pound/1.6-kg)wholechicken•1teaspoonsalt•½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper•1teaspoondriedthyme•1lemon,thinlysliced

FORTHEBROCCOLIRABE,FRIEDLEMON,ANDFARRO

•1bunchbroccolirabe(1pound/455g),rinsed•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper•½cup(60g)whitewholewheatorall-purposeflour•Pinchofdriedthyme•1lemon,slicedintopaper-thinrounds•½cup(120ml)oliveoil•4clovesgarlic,peeledbutleftwhole•Generouspinchofredpepperflakes

•2½cups(420g)cookedfarro(thispage)•1cup(240ml)chickenstockorwater

MAKETHECHICKEN

Preheattheovento450°F(230°C).Arrangethelemonslicesina9-by-13-inch(23-by-33-cm)bakingdishorpan.

Spatchcockthechicken(seeNote,thispage),andopenitflatlikeabook.Seasononbothsideswiththesalt,pepper,andthyme.Putthechickeninthebakingdishoverthelemonslices,skinsideup.Roastuntiltheinternaltemperatureofathighis 160°F (70°C), the juices run clear, and a drumstick can be easily movedaroundinitssocket,45minutesto1hour.Letcooltoroomtemperature.

Pullthemeatfromthebonesinbite-sizepieces,discardingtheskin(keepingthecrispestbitsforextraflavor,ifdesired)andlargepiecesoffat.Setaside.

MAKETHEBROCCOLIRABE,FRIEDLEMON,ANDFARRO

Trimabout1inch(2.5cm)fromthebottomsofthebroccolirabestemsandcutcrosswiseinto2-inch(5-cm)lengths,keepingthefloretsintactifpossible.Bringalargepotofsaltedwatertoaboil.Addthebroccolirabeandpushitdowntosubmerge it in the water. Cook for 2 minutes, then drain in a colander andtransfertoalargebowloficewatertocool.Drainagainandsetaside.

Put theflouronaplateandseason itwithsalt,pepper,and the thyme.Dredgethe lemonslices in the flourmixtureonboth sides,pressinggently so that theflouradherestothelemon.Inalargesautépan,heatallbut1tablespoonoftheoil over medium-high heat until it shimmers but is not smoking.Working inbatches,addthelemonslicesandfry,turning,untildarkbrownandcrisp,1to2minutestotal;removetopapertowelstodrain.

Discardtheoilinthepanandwipeoutthepan.Putthereservedtablespoonofoilandthegarlic in thepanandcookovermediumheatuntil thegarlic issoftandwellbrowned,about8minutes.Add thechickenandcook, turningwithaspatula,untillightlybrownedandheatedthrough,about4minutes.Seasonwithsaltandblackpepper,addtheredpepperflakes,broccolirabe,farro,andstock,andcook,turningfrequently,until thebroccolirabeistenderandeverythingisheatedthroughandmostofthestockhasbeenabsorbed,about4minutes.Tasteand seasonwithmore salt and pepper if necessary and serve toppedwith the

friedlemon.

ASPARAGUSANDKABOCHASQUASHFARROTTOWITHLEMONANDBASIL

Serves6|vegan

Farro cooked like risottomakes a lovely, slightly creamy dish, and you don’tneedtoaddanycream,butter,orcheese.Leavethepeelonthekabochasquash—it may not seem like it, but it gets tender as it cooks. If you don’t havekabocha,youcanusepeeledbutternutoracornsquash.

•1tablespoonoliveoil•½sweetonion,thinlysliced•1clovegarlic,minced•½ small kabocha squash (about 12 ounces / 340 g), seeds scraped out,peeledifdesired,andcutinto¾-inch(2-cm)pieces(seeNote,thispage)

•1¼cups(45g)rawfarro•½cup(120ml)whitewine•3cups(720ml)vegetablestock(seebelow)•1bunchasparagus(about1pound/455g),toughendssnappedoff,cutinto1-inch(2.5-cm)pieces

•Coarselygratedzestandjuiceof1lemon•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper•1largesprigfreshbasil,torn(about6leaves)

Ina large,deep sautépan,heat theoilovermedium-highheat.Add theonionand cook, stirring frequently, until softened and nicely browned, about 10minutes.Addthegarlic,squash,andfarroandcook,stirring,for2minutes.Stirinthewineandcookfor1minute,thenaddjustenoughofthestocktoalmostcoverthesquashandfarro(about2cups/480ml).Bringtoaboil, thenlowertheheat, cover, and simmer, stirringoccasionally,until the squash isvery soft

andthefarroistender,15to20minutes.

Stirintheremainingstock,theasparagus,andlemonzestandjuice.Bringtoasimmer and cook just until the asparagus is tender, about 5 minutes, stirringfrequentlyandsmashingafewofthesquashpiecesagainstthesideofthepantothickentheliquidandmakeitcreamy.Seasonwithsaltandpeppertotasteandfold in thebasil. If thefarrotto is toosoupy, increase theheat tohighandboiluntilsomeoftheliquidisevaporated.Servehot.

QUICKSTOCKS

WhenIhadachestfreezer(duringabriefperiodofcountryliving),Iwasall about making big batches of chicken or roasted-vegetable or duck-carcassstocktosaveforlater.Now,inasmallkitchenwithasinglesmallfreezer,Isimplycannotallotthatmuchspacetostock,evenboiled-downconcentratedstock.Ineedthatspotforicecream,andtheflanksteaks.I’mnot entirely willing to give up the stock ideal, though, so when I needstock, Imakeaquickone,and if it isn’textremelyflavorfulby the timeI’mreadytouseitI’llstirinatinybitofgood-qualitystockbaseandnotworrytoomuchaboutwhetherit’strulyhomemadeornot.

To make a quick vegetable stock, put a saucepan of water on to boil,adding a few peppercorns, a bay leaf, and whatever vegetables ortrimmingsyouhappentohave—abendycarrot that’sbeenin thecrisperdrawera fewweeks too long, theendsof theonionsorshallotsyou justcut off, a bunch of parsley stems, leftover fennel stalks, the heel of abunchofcelery;achickenstock,addachickenbackfromthebaginthefreezerdoor;or, ifyou’remakinga seafooddish, someshrimpshellsorfishtrimmings.Simmeritasyoucutupvegetablesordootherprepforthemeal.

THYMEFARROTTOWITHROASTEDRADISHESANDRADISHGREENS


IneverthoughttoroastaradishuntilIsawthegorgeousonesinRozanneGold’sabsolutely dripping-with-geniusRadically Simple, and I’ll never look at thoselittle red rootvegetables and theirholeygreen tops the sameagain.Thisdish,wherethesharpbutslightlysweetroastedradishesandcrispedleavesarepairedwith a luxuriously creamy, thyme-infused farrotto, prompted the followingreactionfrommyfive-year-olddaughter:“Radishesarethebest,aren’tthey?”

•6largeradisheswithplentifulgreentops•2tablespoonsoliveoil•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper•½onion,thinlysliced•1clovegarlic,minced•1cup(180g)rawfarro•2½to3cups(600to720ml)vegetablestock•1teaspoonfreshthymeleaves•1tablespoonunsaltedbutter•1tablespooncrèmefraîche,plusmoreforserving(seethispage)


Rinse the radishes and their tops and pat them dry. Cut each one in halflengthwise,leavingthetopsattached(orcutoffandreservethetops).Spreadtherootsandtopsononeortwobakingsheets,drizzlewith1tablespoonoftheoil,sprinklewithsaltandpepper,andrubwithyourfingerstocoateverythingwell.Roastuntiltherootsaretenderandthetopsarecrispinspots,about30minutes.Setaside.

Inalargedeepsautépan,heattheremaining1tablespoonofoilovermedium-highheat.Addtheonionandapinchofsaltandcook,stirringfrequently,untilnicely browned, about 8minutes, then add the garlic and cook for 2minutes.Addthefarroandstirtocoatitwiththeoil,thenstirinabout2cupsofthestockand the thyme. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer, stirringfrequentlyandadding½to1cup(120to240ml)morestock,untilthefarroistender,15to20minutes.Stirinthebutterandcrèmefraîcheandsimmerfor5minutes.Taste and seasonwith salt andpepper as needed.Spoon into servingdishesandtopeachservingwithasmalldollopofcrèmefraîcheandtheradishrootsandtops.Serve.

WILDRICESOUPWITHKABOCHASQUASH,KALE,ANDCOCONUTMILK

Serves4to6|vegan,glutenfree

This elegant and beautiful one-pot soup, loaded with tender, frilly kale thatconceals its riches of deep-black wild rice at the bottom of the bowl, is soexceedingly simple to make that, if you’re like me and tend to make dinnerpartiesmorecomplicatedthantheyneedtobe,youmighthesitatetoserveittoguests.Butthat’sexactlywhyyoushould.

•1tablespoonvegetableoil•2shallots,thinlysliced•1teaspoongroundcumin•1teaspoongroundcoriander•6cups(1.4L)vegetablestockorwater•1hotgreenchile,halvedandseeded•2coin-sizeslicesfreshginger•1(1-inch-wide/2.5-cm-wide)stripoflimezest;or1kaffirlimeleaf,torninafewplacesbutleftwhole

•1cup(180g)rawwildrice•½smallkabochasquash(about1pound/455g;seebelow)•1bunchkale•1(13-ounce/390-ml)cancoconutmilk•2teaspoonsagavenectar•Juiceof1lime•Tamaritotaste

Ina largeheavysaucepanorDutchoven,heat theoilovermedium-highheat.

Add the shallots and cook, stirring frequently, until nicely browned, about 5minutes.Add the cuminand coriander and stir for15 seconds.Add the stock,chile,ginger,limezest,andrice.Cover,bringtoaboil,thenlowertheheatandsimmeruntilthericeisalmosttender,about50minutes.

Meanwhile,scrapetheseedsandstringypartsoutofthesquash(noneedtopeel)and cut it into1-inch (2.5-cm) chunks.Wash thekalewell andpull the toughinnerriboutofeachleaf.Roughlychopthekale.

Fishthechile,ginger,andlimezestoutofthesoupanddiscard.Stirthecoconutmilk,agavenectar,limejuice,tamari,andsquashintothesoup,thenincreasetheheattomedium,bringtoasimmer,andcook,covered,untilthesquashisalmosttender,about8minutes.Pilethekaleontopofthesoup,cover,andcookuntilitiswiltedandtender,about5minutes,thengentlyfolditintothesoup.Servehot.

THEOTHERHALF

There are a couple recipes in this book that call for just half a kabochasquash—they’rebigdarnsquashes!Wrappedwithplasticorsealedupinafreezer bag, the leftover half will keep for quite a while in the crisperdraweroftherefrigerator.Here’swhattodowithitwhenyou’rereadytoexperience this squash as it was truly meant to be enjoyed: Cut intowedges about ¾ inch (2 cm) thick at the widest spot and spread on abaking sheet.Drizzlewitholiveoil and seasongenerouslywith salt andpepper.Roast at 350°F (175°C) for about 30minutes, turning the slicesover about halfway through, until nicely browned. (See photo on thispage.)

WILDRICE–STUFFEDCORNISHHENSWITHTARRAGONCRÈMEFRAÎCHE

Serves4|glutenfree

Therearefewfoodcombinationsbetterthantarragonandcrèmefraîche,inmyopinion, and here they’re combined in a classic quick roasting-pan sauce andpouredoversucculentsingle-servinghensstuffedwithnuttywildriceanddriedfruit.It’safancybutunfussydishthatneedsonlyaplainlydressedgreensaladandaloafofbreadtocompletethemeal.Youmightservethisatawinterdinnerparty,orforasmallfamilyThanksgivingsupper.Thericestuffing,too,isgreaton its own, and couldbe doubled and served as a side dishwith an unstuffedroastturkey.

•1tablespoonunsaltedbutter•½onion,diced•1ribcelery,diced•1½teaspoonssalt•½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper•½cup(90g)rawwildrice•½cup(95g)rawlong-grainbrownrice•¼cup(25g)driedsourcherriesorcranberries•Coarselygratedzestof½orange•4smallCornishhens,rinsedandpatteddry•1tablespoonoliveoil•½cup(120ml)whitewine

•⅓cup(80ml)crèmefraîche(seethispage)•3tablespoonschoppedfreshtarragon

Inaheavy2-quart(2-L)saucepan,meltthebutterovermedium-highheat.Addtheonion,celery,½teaspoonof thesalt,and¼teaspoonof thepepper.Cook,stirring occasionally, until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add thewildriceand1¼cups(300ml)water.Bringtoaboil,thenlowertheheat,cover,and simmer for 20minutes.Add the brown rice, cover, and continue to cookuntil both rices are just tender and most of the liquid is absorbed, 30 to 40minutes.Gentlyfoldinthecherriesandorangezest,thenletcooltolukewarm.


Looselystuffthehenswiththericemixture,thenrubtheoutsidewiththeoilandseasonwiththeremaining1teaspoonsaltand¼teaspoonpepper.Putinalargeflameproofbakingpan.(Ifyoulike, tie theendsof thedrumsticksofeachhentogether to help it holds its shape.) Roast until the skin is crisp and thetemperature of the stuffing registers 165°F (74°C) on an instant-readthermometer,about1hour.

Using tongs,carefully remove thehens toaplatterandsetaside to rest for10minutes.Meanwhile,pouroffanyexcessfatfromthebakingpanandsetthepanovermediumheat.Whenthedrippingsbegintosizzle,addthewineandstirtoscrapeupanybrownedbits.Whenmostof thewinehasevaporated,stir inthecrèmefraîcheand tarragonandcook toheat thesauce through.Pour thesauceoverthehensandserve.

VARIATION

* Tomake thiswith chicken breasts instead ofCornish hens:Buy 4 large (1-pound / 455-g) bone-in chicken breastswith skin.Using a sharp chef’s knife,removethemeatofeachbreasthalffromthebonesinonepiece(savethebonesfor stock).Arrange three pieces of kitchen string on a cutting board and set abreast skin side down on top of and perpendicular to the strings.Holding theknifealmostparalleltothesurfaceoftheboard,sliceintothethickestpartofthemeat and unfold it so it opens like a book, flattening the meat to an eventhicknesswithyourpalm.Pilesomeofthericemixtureoverthemeat,thenliftthelongedgesofthebreastoverthefillingandtietherollclosedwiththestring.Rubwithoil,seasonwithsaltandpepper,androastat425°F(220°C)for25to30minutes.

BROTHYCHICKENANDWILDRICESOUPServes4|glutenfree

Thisissuchafarcryfromtheusualchickenandwildricesoupthat itdoesn’teven belong in the same category as that gloopy, cream-or roux-thickenedculinary train wreck. The light, Mexican-style broth here is, I think, a muchmore appropriate medium for good (that is, expensive, special) wild rice: Itreallyletstheflavorofthericeshine.

FORTHECHICKENANDBROTH

•About2¼pounds(1kg)chickenpieces,suchas2largelegquarters•1carrot,roughlychopped•1ribcelery,roughlychopped,plusahandfulofceleryleaves•1bunchfreshparsleystems•¼onion,peeled•½teaspoonwholeblackpeppercorns

FORTHESOUP

•1tablespoonoliveoil•¾largeonion,diced•Salt•1carrot,diced•½cup(90g)rawwildrice•½cup(95g)rawlong-grainbrownrice•1largetomato,peeledanddiced•Juiceof1lime•Freshlygroundblackpepper•1hotgreenchile,thinlyslicedintorounds

MAKETHECHICKENANDBROTH

InalargeheavysaucepanorDutchoven,putthechickenpieces,carrot,celery,parsley stems, onion, peppercorns and enoughwater to cover the chicken andvegetables generously (about 12 cups / 2.9L).Bring to a boil, then lower theheatandsimmeruntil thechickeniscookedthroughandthebrothisflavorful,about 45minutes.Using tongs, remove the chicken to a large bowl. Pour thebroth through a fine-mesh sieve into another large bowl or pot; discard thesolids.Letcoolcompletely,thenskimofftheclearfatfromthebroth.Whenthechickeniscoolenoughtohandle,pullthemeatoffinbite-sizepieces,discardingthebones,skin,andanyexcessfat.(You’llhaveabout2cups300gmeatand10cups2.4Lbroth.)

MAKETHESOUP

Rinse out the large saucepan and put it over medium-high heat. Add the oil,onion, and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring frequently, until the onion istranslucent,about5minutes.Addthecarrot,10cups(2.4L)broth,andwildrice,bringtoaboil,thenlowertheheatandsimmer,covered,for20minutes.Addthebrownriceand½teaspoonsaltandcontinuetosimmer,covered,untilbothricesaretender,about30minutes.Addthechicken,tomato,limejuice,andpeppertotasteandcooktoheatthrough.Tasteandseasonwithmoresaltifneeded.Servewiththechileforscatteringoverthetop.

INJERA(ETHIOPIANBREAD)WITHSTEWEDLENTILSANDBRAISEDCOLLARDGREENS

Makesabout20small(8-inch/20-cm)injera;serves4to6|vegetarian,glutenfree

Spongy,pleasantlysourinjeraiseasiertomakeathomethanyoumightexpect.Itake the regular-yeast shortcut and let the batter sit at room temperature for acoupledaystosour,butyoucouldcertainlyadapttherecipeifyouhaveagoodsourdoughstarterinyourfridge.TherearetwokindsofwholeteffflourthatI’vefoundtobereadilyavailable: ivoryteffanddarker,almostcocoa-coloredflourlabeledsimply“teffflour.”Bothworkfine.

Theonlydifficultpartofmakinginjeraisfindingtherightpanonwhichtocookit.Findagoodnonstickpanwithalid—thebatteriscookedbothfromthebottom and from the steam it creates. After many attempts with my oldernonstick sautépan (which Ikeepprimarily for theoccasional scrambledeggs)andmywell-seasonedcastirongriddlesandskillets,Ifinallydecidedthatanewnonsticksurfacewasinorder—hey,atthispointinthehistoryofcookware,andgiven that almost all commercial and restaurant injera is made on nonstickmitadsratherthanthetroublesomeold-worldclaygriddlesovertoxicallysmokywood fires, I think we can consider nonstick “traditional.” My setup is arelatively cheap but large, flat nonstick griddle with a dome-shaped glass lidfrom another pan that I position over the injera (and directly on the griddlesurface)afterIpourinthebatter.

FORTHEINJERA

•3cups(360g)wholeteffflour•Scant1tablespooninstantyeast

FORTHECOLLARDGREENS

•1½pounds(680g)collardgreens• 1 tablespoon Niter Qibe (spiced butter, this page), clarified butter, or

vegetableoil•½onion,diced•Salt•1clovegarlic,minced•1inch(2.5cm)freshginger,peeledandminced•1teaspoonnigellaseeds(alsocalledkalonji;optional)

FORTHELENTILS

• 1 tablespoon Niter Qibe (spiced butter, this page), clarified butter, orvegetableoil

•½onion,diced•Salt•1clovegarlic,minced•Freshlygroundblackpepper•2teaspoonsberbere(seeNote),ormoretotaste•1cup(180g)splitredlentils(masoordal)orbrownlentils•½cup(90g)dicedpeeledtomatoesandtheirjuice(cannedisfine)•1tablespoontomatopaste

MAKETHEINJERA

Inalargebowl,whisktogethertheflour,yeast,and4cups(480ml)coolwateruntilverysmooth.Thebatterwillbeverythin.Coverwithplasticwrapandsetasidetofermentatroomtemperaturefor1½to2days.Itwillbubblelikecrazy.Ifthesurfaceisstillcoveredwithfoamybubblesafter1day,stiritdownandre-cover;adarkliquidwillcollectatthesurface.Whenthebattersmellsassourasyou’dlikeit(Iprefertheshortertime,whichmakesitplentysour),gentlypouroffthedarkliquid,leavingthethick,grayishbrownbatterinthebowl.

Inasmallheavysaucepan,bring1cup(240ml)water toaboil.Stir in½cup(120ml)of thebatter; itwill thickenalmost immediately.Lower theheat andwhiskuntilit’sassmoothasyoucangetit,cookingforabout2minutes—somesmalllumpsarefine.Removefromtheheatandletcooltolukewarm,thenstirthecookedmixturebackintotheuncookedbatter.Coverthebowlagainandsetasideuntilthebubblesreturn,about1hour.It’stimetomaketheinjera!

Heatalarge,shallownonsticksautépanorgriddleovermedium-highheatuntila drop of water dripped onto the surface dances around. Lower the heat tomediumandladleinabout½cup(120ml)ofthebatter,tiltingthepantomakeathinpancake.Coverwithalidandcookforabout2½minutes,untilthetoplooksdrywithafewshinyspecksandtheedgesseparatefromthepanandstarttocurlup.(Trynot toletcondensationfromtheliddripontotheinjeraasyoulift it.)Use a spatula to remove the injera to a parchment-lined platter, let cool for aminute,thenrollitupifyou’dlike.Repeatwiththeremainingbatter.Ifmakingtheinjerainadvance,letcool,thencovertheplatewithplasticwrapandkeepatroomtemperatureforupto2hours.

MAKETHECOLLARDGREENS

Trim the collards and cut out the stems that are thicker than a pencil.Cut thethickstems into1-inch(2.5-cm) lengthsandset themasideseparately.Cut theleavesintoroughly2-inch(5-cm)squares.

Ina largeheavysaucepanorDutchoven,heat thespicedbutterovermedium-highheat.Add theonion, collard stems, andapinchof salt and cook, stirringoccasionally, until the onion is translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic,ginger, and nigella, if using, and cook for 1 minute. Add 1½ cups (360 ml)water,pile in thecollard leaves, and sprinklewith½ teaspoon salt.Coverandcook, stirring occasionally and addingmorewater if it becomes dry, until thecollardsareverytender,about1hour.

MAKETHELENTILS

InalargeheavysaucepanorDutchoven,heatthespicedbutter.Addtheonionandapinchofsaltandcook,stirringoccasionally,untiltheonionistranslucent,about 5minutes.Add the garlic,½ teaspoon salt,¼ teaspoon pepper, and theberbereandstirfor1minute.Addthelentils,tomatoes,tomatopaste,and3cups(720 ml) water. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer, stirringoccasionally,untilthelentilsarebrokendownandthestewisverythick,about30minutes.Tasteandseasonwithmoresalt,pepper,orberbereifnecessary.

Servethecollardsandlentilswiththeinjera.

NOTE:Tomakeaberberespicemixture:Inasmallsautépanovermedium-highheat,toastabout12driedredchiles(smallhotones,suchasarbolor

cayenne)untillightlybrowned,about1minute.Removetoabowltocool.Toast, all together, for about 30 seconds, 1 teaspoon each cumin seeds,coriander seeds, fenugreek seeds, allspice berries, and whole blackpeppercorns.Addthemtothechilesandletcool.Grindinaspicemilluntilfine,thenuseyourfingersoraforktostirin1teaspoongroundginger,½teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg, and as much hot paprika or groundcayenne as you like tomake it as spicy as you can stand (I do about 2teaspoonspaprikaforamilderblend).

5SideDishes

I’vebeen told thatwhensomepeople thinkof“wholegrains,” theyenvisionadesperately forlorn-looking mound of brown rice or millet, food they’reexpected to choke down because it’s “good for you,” cheap, filling, andenvironmentally sound, but what they’d rather do is compost it (alsoenvironmentally sound). Igather that’showwholegrainswereserved in thesepoorsouls’childhoodhomes,unadornedbutforthepileofoversteamedbroccoli

ontop—there’salwaysoversteamedbroccoliinthesetalesofwoe.Butwithjusta little imagination, and theoccasionaldipof the toe intoa foodcultureotherthan our own, whole grains can be cooked up into side dishes that not onlysmartlycomplement the restof themealbutalsocompetewith it.Aswith thesaladsintheearlierchapter,itwouldtakeverylittleefforttoturntheseintomaincourses or one-dish meals. Most are so interesting and brightly flavorful inthemselves that brilliantmeals can bemade by quickly cooking up somethingvery simple to gowith them—for example, the spicy tomato-stewedmillet onthispageneedsnothingmore thananicepieceof fishpan-seared inoliveoil,seasonedwithnothingmore thansaltandpepperandasqueezeof lemon,orathicklentildal,aspoonfulofyogurt,andsomechunksofcucumber.

AMARANTH“POLENTA”Serves2to3|vegetarian,glutenfree

Tinyamaranthgrainscookuptoaporridgelikeconsistencyverysimilartothatof soft polenta, and while the flavor is altogether different from cornmealpolenta, the amaranth variety can be served inmuch the sameway. Its fresh,almostvegetableflavormakesitwellworthtryingasanalternative,inadditiontobeing significantlymorenutritious thancornmeal.Mysuggestions formorepolentavariations,atright,canbeappliedtothisrecipeaswell.

•1cup(200g)rawamaranth•¼cup(25g)freshlygratedParmesancheese•1tablespoonunsaltedbutter•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper

Inaheavy2-quart (2-L) saucepanovermedium-highheat, toast theamaranth,stirring frequently,untila shadedarkerand justbeginning tocrackle.Stir in3cups(720ml)waterandbringtoaboil,stirring,thenlowertheheatandsimmerbriskly,stirringoccasionally,untilthegrainsaretenderandtranslucentandthemixtureisthick,about20minutes.(Themixturewon’tstarttothickenuntilthelastfewminutes.)Removefromtheheatandstirinthecheese,butter,andsaltandpeppertotaste.Servehot.

CLASSICSOFTPOLENTAServes2or3|vegetarian,glutenfree

Perfectpolentaneedsplentyofsalt—usejustalittleatfirst,thentasteagainafteryoustirinthecheeseandaddmoretowardtheendofcooking.

•4cups(960ml)vegetablestockorwater,ormoreasneeded•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper• 1 cup (160 g) raw coarse-ormedium-grind cornmeal, polenta, or corngrits

•1tablespoonunsaltedbutter•¼cup(25g)freshlygratedParmesancheese

Inaheavy2-quart (2-L) saucepan, combine the stock,½ teaspoon salt, and¼teaspoonpepper.Bring toaboil, thengraduallywhisk in thecornmeal.Lowertheheat and simmer (it shouldplop andbubble just once every few seconds),whisking frequently and stirring with a heatproof spatula to prevent it fromsticking to the pan, until the cornmeal is thick but still pourable and theindividualgranulesaretender,about35minutesforcoarse-grindor15minutesformedium-grindcornmeal;add½cup (120ml) stockorwater if themixturebecomesthickbeforethegranulesaretender.Stirinthebutterandcheese,thentasteandseasonwithmoresaltandpepperifnecessary.Servehot.(Seethispageforreheatingtips.)

VARIATIONS

*Formascarpone-mushroompolenta:Usethebutter tosauté8ounces(225g)slicedmushrooms in a large heavy sauté pan until deeply browned, seasoningwith salt, pepper, and fresh thyme leaves. Fold⅓ cup (80 ml) mascarponecheese into thepolentabefore servingand topwith themushrooms. (Trywithlemon-roastedchicken, thispage.)*ForaMexican-styledish:Towardtheend

of cooking, stir a seeded,minced large jalapeño and poblano and¼ teaspoonground cumin into the polenta and cook until they’re just tender. Omit theParmesan.Sprinklewithcrumbledcotija(afirmMexicancheese)orfetacheeseandplentyofchoppedfreshcilantro.

BUTTERMILKGRITSWITHPIMIENTOCHEESEServes4|vegetarian,glutenfree

Ifyou’reatallsurpisedbyhowmanykindsofdairyarecrammedintothisonelittle sidedish, youprobablyhaven’t eatengrits in a down-home restaurant inGeorgia,whereIsweartheymustfoldwhippedcreamintothem.Trustme,it’sallworthit.Ilikethefreshtangofbuttermilk,whichbalancestherichnessinasurprising way, but you could also just use more milk (no need to add itseparately) or half-and-half. For lovely cheese grits, omit the pimiento cheeseand stir a smallhandfulof just-shreddedcheese into thehotgrits; sharpwhitecheddarisgood,asissomethingwithalittlemorekicklikeasoft-ishasiago.

•2cups(480ml)milk•¾teaspoonsalt,ormoretotaste•1cup(160g)rawwhitecorngritsorhominygrits•1cup(240ml)buttermilk•½tablespoonunsaltedbutter•½cup(120g)PimientoCheese(thispage)•½teaspooncrackedblackpeppercorns

Inaheavy2-quart (2-L)saucepan,bring themilkandsalt toaboil.Graduallywhisk in the grits, then lower the heat to medium and simmer, whiskingfrequently, until the mixture begins to thicken, about 1 minute. Add thebuttermilk and cook over the lowest heat until the corn grains are tender andmostly translucent and thegrits are thickbut still pourable, 6 to8minutes, orlonger depending on the type of grits. Stir in the butter untilmelted, then letstand off the heat for 5 minutes to thicken further. Season with more salt ifnecessary. Spoon onto plates or into small bowls and top each servingwith 2tablespoonspimientocheeseandsprinklewithcrackedpepper.Serve.

CREAMY,LEMONYHOMINYANDSPINACHServes2or3|vegetarian,glutenfree

Like creamed spinach, this is an indulgence, to be sure.But it has a lotmoregoing for it than the old-school classic: A sharp hit of lemon zest and juicebrightensthenot-too-thickcreamsauce,andofcoursethetenderbitsofhominyhidingthroughoutgiveitasubtleLatinfeel.Goalloutandserveasteakwithit,andhunksofgoodcrustybread.

•1pound(455g)freshspinach•1tablespoonunsaltedbutter•1largeshallot,minced•Salt•½cup(120ml)whitewine•1cup(240ml)heavycream•Coarselygratedzestof½lemon•¼teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg•1tablespoonfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice•1½cups (360g)cookedhominy (thispage)or1 (14-ounce /400-g)can,drainedandrinsed

•Freshlygroundblackpepper

Bringapotofwatertoaboilandaddthespinach.Cookuntilwiltedandtender,about 3 minutes, then drain well in a fine-mesh sieve, pressing out as muchwateraspossible.Chopthespinachandsetaside.

Inasmallsaucepan,heatthebutterovermedium-highheat.Addtheshallotandapinchofsaltandcook,stirringoccasionally,untiljuststartingtobrown,about5 minutes. Add the wine and cook until reduced by about half, then add thecream, lemon zest, and nutmeg. Simmer overmedium heat until reduced and

thickened,about6minutes, thenwhisk in the lemon juice.Fold in thespinachand hominy and cook until just heated through. Season to taste with salt andpeppertotasteandservehot.

OLD-FASHIONEDCORNBREADSTUFFINGServes4to6|vegetarian

WhenIwasgrowingup,mymomanddadprobablyputvenisonorsquirrelorthelikeontheThanksgivingtableasoftenasturkey,andmybrotherandInevermissedthebird.ButI’llneverforgettheyearmydaddecidedtomakesomesortofweirdsausageandmushroomstuffing insteadofmymom’s traditionalone.Unforgivable.Thiscornbreadstuffing,whilenottechnicallymymom’s(hersisbasedonamixtureofrye,wholewheat,andwhiteFrenchbreads),isassimplein spirit and surely would’ve been welcome on our family table. I suppose IshouldmentionthatIwouldnotusethisasanactualstuffing,andnotjustfortheusualAlton “Stuffing IsEvil”Brown reasons of poultry-cooking safety.Whatflavorwouldbegainedfrombeingcooked insidea turkey(forexample) is faroutweighedby the lossof the crisp, crunchybrowning the cornbread achieveswhen cooked separately. I call it stuffing because I just can’t wrap my headaroundtheworddressing.

•5tablespoons(70g)unsaltedbutter,plusmoreforthebakingdish•5 cups (475g)diced stale cornbread (or1 recipeof theversionon thispagewouldwork)

•2largeribscelery,diced,plus¼cup(15g)choppedceleryleaves•1onion,diced•¾teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper•½teaspoonsalt•1½teaspoonsmincedfreshsageor1teaspooncrumbleddriedsage•About½cup(120ml)vegetablestock

Preheattheovento400°F(205°C).Buttera9-by-13-inch(23-by-33-cm)bakingdishorpan.

Put the cornbread in a large bowl. In a medium heavy saucepan, melt 4tablespoons(55g)ofthebutterovermedium-highheat.Addthecelery,onion,pepper, and salt and cook, stirring frequently, until just starting to becometender, about 3minutes. Scrape into the bowlwith the cornbread and add thesage.Tosstocombine,thendrizzleinthestock,addingjustenoughtomoistenthe cornbread evenly. Transfer to the prepared baking dish and dot with theremaining1 tablespoonofbutter.Bakeuntilheated throughandcrustyon top,25to30minutes.Serve.

SPICYSTEWEDMILLETWITHTOMATO,CUMIN,ANDMUSTARDSEEDS


Sautéing the millet and mustard and cumin seeds together before adding thetomatoesandwaterdeepenstheflavorsofthisefficientlittlestew.Myfriendandfellow recipe tester Sarah Scheffel says that she likes to add some cookedchickpeastomakeamoresubstantialmaincourse,andIthinkthat’safineidea,whetheryou’reveganornot.Forvegetariansoromnivores,agenerousspoonfulofplainyogurtorraitawouldbegoodalongsidethisaswell.

•1tablespoonoliveorvegetableoil•1onion,thinlysliced•Salt•1teaspoonyellowmustardseeds•1teaspooncuminseeds•1cup(200g)rawmillet•1(14.5-ounce/415-g)canwholetomatoes,withtheirjuice•2hotgreenchiles,splitlengthwisebutkeptwhole•Pinchofhotredpepperflakes•Juiceof½lemon•¼cup(20g)choppedfreshcilantro(optional)

Inaheavymediumsautépan,heattheoilovermedium-highheat.Addtheonionandapinchofsaltandcook,stirringfrequently,untilsoftandnicelybrowned,about10minutes.Addthemustardseeds,cumin,andmilletandcook,stirring,until fragrant and themillet begins to crackle, about 2minutes. Break up thetomatoeswithyourhands(orusekitchenshearstocutthemupinthecan)andaddthem,alongwith their juiceand¾cup(180ml)water, to thepan.Add½

teaspoonsalt,thechiles,andredpepperflakesandstirwell.Bringtoaboil,thenlowertheheat,cover,andsimmeruntilthemilletistenderandmostoftheliquidhas been absorbed, about 25minutes. If the liquid ismostly absorbed but themilletisn’tquitetender,drizzleinafewmoretablespoonsofwaterandcookfora fewmore minutes. Taste and addmore salt if necessary. Sprinkle with thelemonjuiceandcilantro,ifusing,andservehot,offeringthechilestowhoeverlikesithottest.

ROASTEDCAULIFLOWERANDGARLICMASHEDMILLETServes4to6|vegan,glutenfree

My dad had some choicewords to say about how this palemash looked in aphotographIsenttohimandmymom,butdon’tletappearancediscourageyou—mashedpotatoes,forwhichthismilletandcauliflowerdishisadeliciousandmore healthful substitute, aren’t particularly attractive either. I roast the oliveoil–slickedalmondsalongsidethegarlicandcauliflower—anotherwaytofairlyeffortlesslyaddroastyflavortoasimplesidedish.

•1mediumheadcauliflower•6clovesgarlic•8wholealmonds•2tablespoonsoliveoil,plusmoreforserving•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper•2cups(350g)cookedmillet(thispage)•About1¼cups(300ml)almondmilk(thispage)


Trim thecauliflowerandbreak it into large florets.Put thecauliflower,garlic,andalmondsina9-by-13-inch(23-by-33-cm)bakingdish,drizzlewiththeoil,andsprinklewithsaltandpeppertotaste.Tosstocoatwiththeoil.Roastuntilthecauliflowerisverytenderandgoldenbrown,40to50minutes,removingthealmonds when they’re browned (after about 40 minutes). Coarsely chop thealmondsandsetaside.

Working in batches if necessary, transfer the cauliflower and garlic to a foodprocessor and add themillet and 1 cup of the almondmilk. Puree until fairly

smooth,addingmorealmondmilkifneeded;themashwillhavetheconsistencyof chunky mashed potatoes. Taste and season generously with more salt andpepper.Transfer to aheavymediumsaucepanandheatover lowheat, stirringfrequently,untilhot(orreheatinamicrowaveoven).Transfertoaservingdish,sprinklewiththealmonds,drizzlewithalittleoil,andserve.

THYME-SCENTEDMILLETWITHPEPPERSServes4|vegan,glutenfree

This is a quick, simple, unassuming side dishwith just a bit of kick from thecrackedpepperandrichnessfromtheoil.Useagoodfruityoliveoilhere,anditwillbeappreciated.

•3tablespoonsoliveoil,ormoreifneeded•1smallredbellpepper,diced•1smallyellowororangebellpepper,diced•½teaspoonsalt,ormoretotaste•½teaspooncrackedblackpepper•4cups(700g)cookedmillet(thispage)•2teaspoonsfreshthymeleaves

In a large sautépan, heat theoil overmediumheat.Add thebell peppers andcook,stirringfrequently,until just tender,about5minutes.Addthesalt,blackpepper,millet,andthymeandturnwithametalspatulatothoroughlycombine.Cookuntilthemilletisheatedthrough,about3minutes.Tasteandseasonwithmoresaltifnecessary,anddrizzlewithalittlemoreoilifthemilletappearsdry.Servehot.

VARIATIONS

* Hold back on the salt; before serving, top with 1 teaspoon gomashio (thispage)coarselycrushedinamortar.

*Ifkeepingthedishveganorvegetarianisn’tanissue,makeamoresubstantialmain course (serving perhaps two or three for lunch) by adding a couplehandfuls of shredded cooked chicken with the bell peppers and dotting thefinisheddishwithabitofsoftcheese.

MILLETWITHSPINACH,CARAMELIZEDONION,ANDRAISINS


Adishwithsuchapaltryandpedestrian listof ingredients trulyshouldnotbeallowedtotasteasgoodasthisdoes.Theonlytrickistonotrushthebrowningandsofteningof theonion—let itgoslowly,andit’llbecomesilkyanddeeplysweet.

•1tablespoonoliveoil•½onion,thinlysliced•Salt•3clovesgarlic,chopped•1cup(200g)rawmillet

•⅓cup(55g)raisins•Freshlygroundblackpepper•3cups(90g)babyspinachorroughlychoppedmaturespinach

In aheavy3-quart (2.8-L) saucepan,heat theoil overmedium-highheat.Addthe onion and a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until very wellbrownedandsoft,at least10minutes; lowertheheattomediumif itbeginstobrowntooquickly.Addthegarlicwhentheonionisjustaboutdone.

Addthemilletandstiruntilcracklingandfragrant,about4minutes.Add2cups(480ml)water,theraisins,acouplelargepinchesofsalt,andseveralgrindsofpepper.Coverandbringtoaboil,thenlowertheheatandsimmeruntilthemilletistenderandmostofthewaterhasbeenabsorbed,about20minutes.

Fold in the spinach, cover, and cook until the spinach is wilted and heatedthrough,about2minutes;seasonwithsaltifnecessary.Fluffandserve.

TURNIPANDGREENSGRATINWITHCRUNCHYMILLETCRUST


When I startedaskingaround forwholegrain recipe ideas,bothmymomandmy aunt sent me a recipe for something they called “millet topping forvegetables.”Itmustbeacommonwaytousemillet,butI’dneverhadanythinglikeit.HereIlayermybelovedturnipsandtheirgreenswithnuttyGruyèreandthyme-infused cream, then top the whole thing with a layer of toasty milletenrichedwitholiveoilandcheese,whichbakesintoaheartycrust.

•1tablespoonoliveoil,plusmoreforthebakingdish•2cups(480ml)heavycream•1clovegarlic,smashedbutleftwhole•1sprigfreshthyme•Pinchoffreshlygratednutmeg•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper• 1 pound (455 g) turnip greens, washed well, large stems removed,roughlychopped

•1onion,diced•1cup(200g)rawmillet•8ounces(225g)Gruyèrecheese,shredded

•2pounds(910g)turnips,peeledandsliced⅛inch(3mm)thick•1teaspoonGomashio(thispage)orsesameseeds(optional)

Preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C). Oil a 9-by-13-inch (23-by-33-cm) bakingdish.

In a small heavy saucepan, combine the cream, garlic, thyme, nutmeg, and a

pincheachofsaltandpepper.Bringtoaboil,thenremovefromtheheat,cover,andsetasidetosteep.

Bringa largepotofwater toaboil,add thegreens,andblanch for2minutes.Drainand transfer toabowlofcoldwater tocool.Drainandsqueezedry.Setaside.

Ina3-quart(2.8-L)saucepan,heattheoilovermediumheat,addtheonionandapinchof salt, andcook, stirring frequently,until theonion is justbeginning tobrown,about5minutes.Addthemilletandcook,stirring,untilfragrant,about5minutes.Add2¼cups(540ml)waterand¼teaspoonsalt,cover,bringtoaboil,thenlowertheheatandsimmeruntilthewaterismostlyabsorbedandthemilletistender,about20minutes.Removefromtheheatandletstandfor5minutes,thengentlyfoldinhalfofthecheese.Setaside.

Arrange one-third of the turnip slices in a single layer in the baking dish andsprinklegenerouslywithsaltandpepper.Topwithhalfofthegreens,thenhalfof the remainingcheese.Addanother layerof turnips, saltandpepper,greens,andcheese.Topwithanother layerof turnipsandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Pour the warm cream evenly over the top, discarding the garlic and thyme.Usingaspatula,spreadthemilletmixtureoverthetopofthecasserole,pressingdowngentlysoitstickstogethertoformacrust.Sprinklewiththegomashio,ifusing.Bake until the topping is nicely browned, a knife inserted in the centermeetsnoresistancefromtheturnips,andthecreamisbubblingfuriously,about1hourand15minutes.Letstandfor15minutes,thenserve.

VARIATIONS

*Usethawedandsqueezedfrozenspinachinsteadoftheturnipgreens.

* Insteadof thegreens,sauté1poundslicedmushrooms in1 tablespoonoliveoiluntiltheyreleasetheirliquidandarenicelybrownedandlayerthemwiththeturnips.

*Usehalfturnipsandhalfrussetpotatoes.

SAVORYQUINOACUSTARDServes6|vegetarian,glutenfree

ThisrecipewasgraciouslygiventomebyCharlesRamsey,thechefdecuisineatAthens’sFive&Tenrestaurant,whereIwasservedthiscustardwithacrisp-skinned roasted chicken breast, braised kale, and a lemony salad of shavedcelerywithpecans.Asbefitsitsclassy-restaurantorigins,thisisasimple,highlyenrichedcustard—youwantbutter,cream,eggyolks,cheese?You’vegotit.Ofcourse, itwould be perfectly acceptable to usewhole eggs instead of just theyolks,orusehalf-and-halfinsteadofcream,andlubricatethecupswithalightsprayofoliveoilinsteadofsoftbutter.

•Softenedbutterforthecups•12largeeggyolks,or6largewholeeggs•3tablespoonsheavycream•3tablespoonsfreshlygratedParmesancheese•1tablespoonchoppedfreshparsleyorthyme,oracombination•1teaspoonsalt•3cups(550g)cookedquinoa(thispage),cooled

Preheat theovento400°F(205°C).Generouslybuttersix6-to8-ounce(180-to240-ml)custardcupsorramekins.Putakettleofwaterontoboil.

Inalargebowl,whisktogethertheeggyolks,cream,cheese,parsley,andsalt.Gentlyfoldinthequinoa.Dividethemixtureamongthepreparedcustardcupsand set them in a baking pan. Pour boiling water in the baking pan to comehalfwayupthesidesofthecupsandtransferthepantotheoven.Bakefor18to20minutes, until just set.Remove the cups from thewater (use a canning jarlifterifyouhaveone)andletcoolforafewminutesorupto30minutes.Eitherserve straight from the cups, or carefully turn each custard out onto a servingplate(loosentheedgeswithaknife).

SPICEDBROWNBASMATIRICEServes4|vegan,glutenfree

ThisisadishIusedtomakealotformyselfwhenIlivedaloneandcouldgetawaywitheatingnothingbutriceforsupper.It’saninterestingaccompanimentto a simple lentil dal, or gingery curried chickpeas with a few ripe tomatoesgratedin.Ifremainingveganisn’taconcern,tryusinggheeinplaceoftheoil,andbesuretoincludeaspoonfulofplainyogurtonyourplate.

•1cup(195g)rawbrownbasmatirice•1tablespoonoliveorvegetableoil•1teaspooncuminseeds•4wholecloves•½teaspoongreencardamompods,lightlycrushed•Pinchofgroundcinnamon•½teaspoonsalt

Rinse the rice inat least threechangesofwater,until thewater is clear;drainwellandputinabowlwith1½cups(360ml)water.Letsoakfor30minutes.

Inaheavy2-quart(2-L)saucepan,heattheoilovermedium-highheatandaddthecumin,cloves,cardamom,andcinnamon.Cook,stirring,for1minute.Addthericeanditssoakingwaterandthesaltandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Stironce, then cover and lower the heat to very low; cook until all the water isabsorbedandthericeistender,withoutstirring,20to25minutes.Removefromtheheatandletrest,covered,for5minutes.Fluffgentlywithaheatproofspatulaandserve.

TURNIPRICEServes4|vegan,glutenfree

Turniprice.Soundslovely,doesn’tit?Butoh,mygoodness,itis!Littlenuggetsofpleasantlybitterturnipsareblanchedandbrieflysautéedtogetherwithpureedturnip greens (absolutely loaded with calcium), a touch of tingly ginger, andclassic curry spices, then fluffybasmati rice is folded in tomakea substantialside dish. If you’re not a turnip lover—yet—feel free to substitute the greenswithother,mildercruciferousbraisinggreenslikecollardsorkale,andpairthemwithcauliflowerorsweetpotatoesinsteadoftheturnipsifyoulike.Forfurthersimplicity, you can thaw a block of frozen chopped spinach and skip theblanchingandpureeingaltogether.

•2mediumturnips,peeledanddiced(about2cups/260g)•1largecarrot,peeledanddiced(optional)•5packedcupschoppedturnipgreens(about8ounces/225g)•1hotgreenchile,seededandchopped(optional)•1tablespoonoliveoil•½onion,diced•Salt•1teaspoonmincedfreshginger•1teaspoongroundcoriander•½teaspoongroundcumin•¼teaspoonturmeric•3cups(585g)cookedbrownbasmatirice(thispage)

Fillalargebowlwithicewater.Bringalargepotofwatertoaboilandaddtheturnips and carrot, if using; return to a boil and cook until just barely tender,about4minutes.Usingaslottedspoon,transferthevegetablestotheicewaterto

cool.Add the turnip greens to the boilingwater, shoving them down into thewateras theywilt.Cookuntil thestemsaretender,about8minutes, thenpourintoasieveandrinseundercoldrunningwatertocool.Putthegreensinaminifoodprocessorwiththechile,ifusing,andasplashofwater(uptoabout¼cup/60ml) and puree until smooth. Set the blanched vegetables and turnip-greenspureeaside.

Inalargedeepsautépan,heattheoilovermedium-highheat.Addtheonionandapinchofsaltandcook,stirringfrequently,until translucent,about5minutes.Add theginger,coriander,cumin, turmeric,and1 teaspoonsaltandstir for30seconds. Add the blanched turnips and carrot and stir to coat them with theonion-spice mixture. Add the turnip-greens puree and stir until evenlyincorporated.Coverandcook,stirringoccasionally,until theturnipsandcarrotaretender,about5minutes,uncoveringthepanattheendtoletexcessmoistureevaporate.Gentlyfoldinthericeandcooktojustheatthrough,about2minutes.Serve.

VARIATIONS

*Tomakethisaveganmaindish:Add1drainedandrinsed(14-ounce/400-g)can chickpeas (about 1½cups) to the sauté panwith the blanched turnips andcarrots.

*Tomakethisavegetarianmaindish:Addthechickpeas,asabove,andeitherservewithagenerousmoundofplainyogurtalongsideorstiragenerousdollopofplainyogurtintothemixturejustbeforeaddingtherice.

FRESHCRANBERRYRICEServes4|vegetarian,glutenfree

Isawarecipe inanoldricecookbookyearsagothatusedfreshcranberries inwhatwasdescribedasa“Swedish”ricedish,thoughsincethen,Ihavenotbeenable to find reference to any traditional Swedish preparation of rice involvingfreshcranberries.Perhapsit’sSwedishinthesamewaythatIalwaysthoughtofchallahas“Swissbread”(thankstomymomandalong-ago-clippedPillsburyadwitharecipefor“GoldenBraidofBerne”).Thisdeep-pink,tart-sweetrice,withahintoffreshdill,wouldbeexcellentwithsimplysmokedorroastedfishandaslice of dense whole rye pumpernickel—or, if the occasion is particularlyfestive,atorn-offpieceofbutterychallah!

Ifcranberriesareoutofseason,lookforfrozenones,whichworkjustaswellhereasfresh:Justgivethemaquickrinseinacolander.

•8ounces(225g)freshcranberries•3tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedorangejuice•1teaspooncoarselygratedorangezest,plusthinstripsforgarnish•2tablespoonshoney•2tablespoonssugar,ormoretotaste•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper•3cups(585g)cookedlong-grainbrownrice(seehere)•1teaspoonchoppedfreshdill

Inaheavy3-quart(2.8-L)saucepan,combinethecranberries,orangejuiceandgrated zest, honey, sugar, and a pinch each of salt and pepper. Cook overmedium heat, stirring frequently, until all the cranberries have burst and theliquidissomewhatthickened,5to7minutes.Tasteandseasonwithmoresugarifnecessary;itshouldbetartbutsweetenoughtobe,youknow,edible.Gentlystirinthericeanddillandcooktoheatthrough.Servehot,sprinkledwithstrips

oforangezest.

(VERY)DIRTYRICEServes6|glutenfree

AtawackypotluckinadoublewidedancehallsomewhereinCajuncountryoneeveningyears ago, I hadmy first lesson indirty rice fromanolder couple. Intheirsixties,theypartied(nottomentiondanced)betterthanIdidinmytwenties—andwerekindenoughnotonly toservemesomericebut to tellmehowtomakeitmyselfwhenIgotbacktoNewYorkandstartedmissingit.Theytoldmetofirstmakearoux,astepInolongertakesincetheabsurdityofusingflourinaricedishdawnedonme.Here’saveryslightlylighterversion,andseethevariationforonethat’sevenmoreso.

Dirty rice, in addition to being delicious and easy to make, is a friendlyentréeintothenose-to-taillifestyle.Infact,ifyouhaveachickenbackorneckinthefreezer,goaheadandtossit intothepotwiththegizzardsanddiscarditwiththebayleaf—theboneswillgivethebrothbodyandmoreflavor.

•1pound(455g)chickengizzardsandhearts,plusafewlivers•1bayleaf•Freshlygroundblackpepper•1teaspoonplus1tablespoonvegetableoil•1onion,diced•2ribscelery,diced•1teaspoonsalt•½to1teaspoongroundcayenne,ormoretotaste•1½cups(285g)rawlong-grainbrownrice,rinsedatleastthreetimes•4scallions,thinlysliced•Vinegarycayennehotsauce,suchasCrystalorTabasco

Put the gizzards, bay leaf, and a few grinds of black pepper in a medium

saucepan,coverwithcoldwater(atleast3cups),andbringtoaboil.Lowertheheatandsimmerfor30minutes.Usingtongs,removethegizzards toacuttingboard (discard thebay leaf) and set aside.Pour the broth through a fine-meshsieveintoalargeglassmeasuringcupandsetaside.

In a small sauté pan, heat the 1 teaspoonoil overmedium-highheat.Add thechickenliversandheartsandcook,turningoccasionally,for5minutes.Removetothecuttingboardwiththegizzardsandletcoolforafewminutes.

Ina large,deepsautépanorDutchoven,heat the remaining tablespoonofoilover medium-high heat and add the onion. Cook, stirring occasionally, untiltranslucentandbeginningtobrown,about8minutes.

Meanwhile,chopthegizzards,livers,andheartsuntilthelargestpiecesareaboutthe size of a piece of the celery (and the hearts especially are no longerrecognizable as such).Add them to the panwith the onion and cook until nopinkremainsandtheonionisnicelybrownedandstickingtothebottomofthepan.Stirinthecelery,salt,½teaspoonblackpepper,thecayenne,andrice.Add2½cups (600ml)of the strainedbrothandstir to scrapeup thebrownedbits.Coverthepanandbringtoaboil,thenlowertheheatandsimmeruntilthericeistenderandtheliquidisabsorbed,45to50minutes.Ifthericeistenderbutthemixture is still soupy, uncover and increase the heat to high until the excessliquid is evaporated. Fold in the scallions and cook until heated through andwilted,about3minutes.Servewithhotsauceatthetable.

VARIATION

* For a quicker,much lighter dish using ground pork (or turkey) and cookedbrownrice,omit thegizzardsandheartsand liversandskip thebrothmaking.Simply sauté the onion and celery together until lightly browned, about 8minutes, then add 1 pound (455 g) ground pork or turkey and cook until theexcess liquid in the pan is evaporated and the pork is lightly browned and nolongerpink,about5minutes.Stirinthesalt,cayenne,andblackpeppertotaste,then gently fold in the scallions and about 4 cups (780 g) cooked and cooledbrownrice.Cook,turningfrequently,untilheatedthrough.Servewithhotsauce.

SESAMEANDCASHEWBROWNBASMATIRICEServes3or4|vegan,glutenfree

Thissimpleandsurprisinglyfillingrice,withfragrantfreshcurryleaves,toastysesameseeds,andcrunchyroastedcashews,isasimplifiedandlightenedversionof a classic Indian sesame rice featured in Neelam Batra’s delightfully hefty1,000IndianRecipes.Ifyoucan’tfindcurryleaves,whichareavailableatanyIndiangrocerystoreandmanyAsianones(andwhichwillkeepforweeksinasealedbaginthecrisperdrawer),justleavethemout—thedishisworthmakingevenwithoutthem.

•1cup(190g)rawbrownbasmatirice•Salt•3tablespoonssesameseeds•½teaspooncrushedredchile•1tablespoonoliveorvegetableoil•½cup(65g)coarselychoppedroastedunsaltedcashews•16freshcurryleaves•3scallions,thinlysliced

Rinse the rice inat least threechangesofwater,until thewater is clear;drainwellandputinaheavy2-quart(2-L)saucepanwith1½cups(360ml)water.Letsoakfor30minutes.Add½teaspoonsaltandbringtoaboiloverhighheat.Stironce, thencoverandlowertheheat toverylowandcookuntilall thewater isabsorbedandthericeistender,withoutstirring,20to25minutes.Removefromtheheatandletrest,covered,for5minutes.

Heatalargedeepsautépanovermedium-highheat.Addthesesameseedsandcook, stirring, until brown and fragrant, about 2minutes. Scrape into a bowl.Addthecrushedredchiletothehotpanandstir,offtheheat,untildarkeneda

shade, about 15 seconds. Scrape into the bowlwith the sesame seeds and setaside.

Wipe out the pan, return it to medium-high heat, and add the oil. Add thecashewsandcurryleavesandcook,stirring,untilthecashewsaregoldenbrown,about1½minutes.Addthescallionsandstirfor15seconds.Addthericeandthesesame-chilemixture andgently foldwith a heatproof spatula to combine andheatthrough.Seasonwithmoresalt,ifnecessary,andservehot.

RYEBERRIESWITHBRAISEDREDCABBAGE,APPLES,ANDDRIEDCURRANTS

Serves6|vegetarian

To me, the flavor of rye berries cannot be separated from that of caraway.Withouttheslightlysweetcaraway,ryeberriesseem—perhapsunfairly—tolackan essential part of their very character. Here they’re both added to tenderbraised red cabbage and apple, and spikedwith a little crushed red pepper, asplash of cider vinegar, and a handful of tangy dried currants. It makes asubstantialThanksgiving-typesidedishthatwouldalsobeespeciallyniceunderathick-cutpan-roastedporkchoporalongsideagoodbeer-simmeredsausage.

•1tablespoonoliveoil•1tablespoonunsaltedbutter•1onion,thinlysliced•Salt• 1 large apple, preferably Golden Delicious, quartered, cored, and cutcrosswiseinto¼-inch(6-mm)slices

•1tablespoonbrownsugar•1teaspooncarawayseeds,lightlycrushed•Pinchofcrushedredpepper•½smallheadredcabbage,coredandcutcrosswise into¼-inch(6-mm)slices

•½cup(120ml)vegetablestockorwater•¼cup(60ml)cidervinegar•2½cups(440g)cookedryeberries(thispage)•¼cup(25g)driedcurrants

Ina largedeepsautépanorDutchoven,heat theoilandbutterovermedium-

highheat.Addtheonionandapinchofsaltandcook,stirringfrequently,untiljuststartingtobecometender,about4minutes.Addtheappleandcook,stirringoccasionally, until the apple and onion are lightly browned, about 8 minutes.Sprinkleinthebrownsugar,carawayseeds,andcrushedredpepperandstirfor1minute.Addthecabbageandcookuntiljuststartingtowilt,about2minutes,thenaddthestock,vinegar,ryeberries,currants,and1½teaspoonssalt.Coverandcookuntilthecabbageistenderandmostoftheliquidisabsorbed,about15minutes.Serve.

CREAMYSORGHUMANDCABBAGESLAWServes8|vegetarian,glutenfree

Serve this classic slaw (well, classic except for the sorghum) with a pile ofpulled-pork barbecue, or chicken pieces grilled Cornell style (marinated invinegar,vegetableoil, herbs,whiskedegg, and lotof salt), perhapswith a tallsquareofcornbread.

•1cup(240ml)plainyogurt•½cup(120ml)buttermilk•Juiceof1lime•¾teaspoonsalt,ormoreifneeded•½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper,ormoreifneeded•1clovegarlic•4scallions•1small(1½-pound/680-g)greencabbage•3cups(480g)cookedsorghum(thispage),chilled

In a large bowl, whisk together the yogurt, buttermilk, lime juice, salt, andpepper.Usingafinegrater,grateinthegarlic;whisktocombine.

Thinly slice the scallions and add them to the bowl. Quarter and core thecabbage,thenfinelychopit(cutinto½-inch/12-mmwedges,thenthinlysliceacrossseveralwedgesata time)andadd it to thebowl.Add thesorghumandfold it into the dressing and vegetables. Taste and season withmore salt andpepper if necessary. Serve, or set aside to chill in the refrigerator for up to 4hoursbeforeserving.

CHARD-FLECKEDCOUSCOUSWITHLEMONZESTANDPINENUTS

Serves4|vegan

Red-stemmedchardwilltintthiscouscousapretty,faintpink,butyoucanusewhiteoryellowchard,spinach,orkaleinstead;ifusingkale,removethetoughstemsandincreasethesautéingtimeabittobesureit’stenderbeforeaddingthewaterandcouscous.

•1tablespoonoliveoil•½bunchredchard,washedwell,stemstrimmedandthinlysliced,leaveschopped

•1teaspoonsalt•¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper•1cup(170g)rawwholewheatcouscous•½teaspoongratedlemonzest•3tablespoonspinenuts

In a heavy 2-quart (2-L) saucepan, heat the oil over high heat. When itshimmers, add the chard, salt, and pepper and cook, stirring frequently, untilwilted,about3minutes.Add1½cups(360ml)waterandbringtoaboil.Stirinthecouscousandlemonzest,cover,andremovefromtheheat;letstanduntilallthewaterisabsorbedandthecouscousistender,10to15minutes.

Meanwhile, in a small heavy sauté pan overmedium-high heat, toast the pinenutsuntillightlybrownedandfragrant,about3minutes.Fluffthecouscousandfoldinthepinenuts;servehot.

CURRIEDCRACKEDWHEATANDGREENLENTILSWITHYOGURT


This hearty Indian-spiced dish would be great as part of a meal of severaldifferent dishes, such as tomato-stewed okra, plain basmati rice or warmflatbread, a spoonful of spicy pickle from the cupboard, and a simple coolingsaladofthinlyslicedcucumbers,freshmint,limejuice,andsalt.

•¼cup(60ml)plainyogurt,plusmoreforserving•1tablespoonoliveoil•½onion,diced•½teaspooncuminseeds•½teaspoonyelloworbrownmustardseeds•½teaspoonturmeric•¼teaspoongroundcayenne•1teaspoongratedfreshginger•1clovegarlic,grated•½cup(95g)greenlentils,rinsed•½cup(80g)rawcrackedwheat•1teaspoonsalt,ormoretotaste

Whisktheyogurtinto1½cups(360ml)waterandsetaside.

In a large sauté pan, heat the oil overmedium-high heat. Add the onion andcook,stirringfrequently,untilsoftandnicelybrowned,about8minutes.Addthecumin and mustard seeds, turmeric, cayenne, ginger, and garlic and cook,stirring,for30seconds.Addtheyogurt-water,lentils,andcrackedwheat.Bringtoaboil,thencover,lowertheheat,andsimmeruntilthelentilsandwheatare

tender,about30minutes,addingthesaltand¾cup(180ml)morewaterabouthalfwaythroughthecookingtimeandstirringoccasionally.Servewithgenerousdollopsofyogurtontheside.

VARIATION

*For amore substantial dishormain course:Add2or3handfulsof randomvegetables(suchaschoppedgreenbeans,dicedcarrots,andsweetcornkernels)tothepanwhenthelentilsandwheatarealmosttender,cover,andcontinuetocookuntilthevegetablesaretender,5to10minutes.

THAIHERBCOUSCOUSWITHBROWNEDBUTTERANDSHALLOTS


Here, the herby couscous is servedwith some ginger-garlic sautéed bok choyand roasted kabocha squash (this page), but itwould also be deliciouswith anicepieceofpan-searedfishandasaladofgreenswithpureedginger-and-carrotdressing.Ormakeaquick-cookedratatouilleofsorts:Sautéabigpileofyellowsquashandzucchiniwithgarlic,grateinacoupleoffreshtomatoes,tearinafewThaibasilleaves,andaddsomedrainedcannedwhitebeanstoheatthrough.

•2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter•2largeshallots,verythinlysliced•Salt•1cup(170g)rawwholewheatcouscous•2kaffirlimeleaves,centerribremoved,minced•¼cup(20g)choppedfreshcilantro•¼cup(20g)choppedfreshmint•¼cup(20g)choppedfreshThaiorregularbasil

Putakettleofwaterontoboil.

Inaheavy2-quart(2-L)saucepan,meltthebutterovermedium-highheat.Addtheshallotsandapinchofsaltandcook,stirringfrequently,untiltheshallotsareverywell browned and crisp.Using a slotted spoon, remove the shallots to apapertowelandsetaside.Returnthepantomediumheatandcontinuetocookthebutteruntildeepgoldenbitsappear.Stirinthecouscous,kaffirlimeleaves,¾teaspoonsalt,and1½cups(360ml)boilingwater,coverthepan,andremovefromtheheat.Letstanduntil thewaterisabsorbedandthecouscousistender,10to15minutes,thenfluffwitharubberspatulaandfoldinthecilantro,mint,

andbasil.Transfertoaservingbowl,topwiththeshallots,andserve.

FARROWITHBACON,SHAVEDBRUSSELSSPROUTS,ANDROASTEDCHESTNUTS

Serves4to6

I could imagine this dish on a traditionalThanksgiving table as a stand-in forbread-basedstuffing:It’sfestive,withbitsofbaconandfreshlyroastedchestnutsthroughouttheslightlycrisped-upBrusselssproutsandtenderfarro.Assoonasyouseesmalllocalchestnutsinyourmarket,snatchsomeupandroastthem—thesmallAmericanchestnutsareeasier topeelandhaveamorevibrantflavorandcolorthantheAsianones.Putthewholepeelednutsinafreezerbag,suckout the air, seal, and freeze for up to 2months.You can also, of course, usejarredorbaggedroastedandpeeledchestnuts.

•4ounces(115g)bacon,diced•½onion,diced•1pound(455g)Brusselssprouts,rinsed,trimmed,andverythinlysliced• 1 pound (455 g) small fresh chestnuts, roasted (seeNote) and coarselychopped

•2½cups(420g)cookedfarro(thispage)•2tablespoonssherryvinegar,ortotaste•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper•Pinchoffreshlygratednutmeg,ortotaste

In a large deep sauté pan, cook the bacon over medium heat until the fat isrenderedandthebaconiscrisp,about8minutes.Usingaslottedspoon,removethebacontoapapertoweltodrain.Setaside.

Return the sauté panwith the bacon drippings tomedium-high heat. Add theonionandcook, stirring frequently, until theonion isnicelybrowned, about8minutes.Add theBrussels sprouts and chestnuts and cook, stirring frequently,

untilthegreensarewiltedandbeginningtobrown,about5minutes.Foldinthefarroandvinegarandcooktoheatthrough.Seasonwithsalt,pepper,andnutmegtotaste,andaddmorevinegarifnecessary.Servehot.

NOTE: To roast chestnuts, set each chestnut on a cutting board flat sidedownandusingasharpknife(serratedworksbest)cutanXintheshellonthecurvedside.Arrange themXsideup ina roastingpanandroast ina400°F(205°C)ovenfor20to25minutes,untiltheXopensupandrevealsthe nut inside. Working quickly, while the chestnuts are still hot (holdthemwithatowel,ifnecessary,toprotectyourhands),peeltheshellandinnerbrownpaperyskinoffwithyourfingers.

FARROWITHBUTTER-BRAISEDCELERYANDTARRAGONServes4|vegetarian

Mild farro with braised celery and tarragon, enriched with good butter andplenty of black pepper, makes a creamy, unctuous, rich, comforting,unchallengingsidedish—oftenjustwhatafamilyneedsonacoolfallevening.

•3tablespoonsunsaltedbutter•½smallonion,diced•6ribscelery,cutonthebiasinto½-inch(12-mm)pieces,plusleavesfrom1bunchcelery

•¾teaspoonsalt,ormoretotaste•½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper•2½cups(420g)cookedfarro(thispage)•2tablespoonschoppedfreshtarragon•Juiceof½smalllemon

Inaheavy3-quart(2.8-L)saucepanovermediumheat,meltthebutter.Addtheonionandcook,stirringfrequently,until translucent,about5minutes.Addthecelery (reserve the leaves)andcook, stirringoccasionally,until just tenderbutstillabitcrisp.Stirinthesalt,pepper,farro,and½cup(120ml)water.Increasetheheat tohighandbringtoaboil.Cook,stirringfrequently,until thefarro isheated through, the celery isquite tender, and the liquid in thepan is creamy,reducedsomewhat,andemulsified,about8minutes.Choptheceleryleavesandstir them into the pan along with the tarragon and lemon juice. Cook for 2minutes,thentasteandaddmoresaltifnecessary.Servehot.

VARIATIONS

*This alsoworkswellwithhulledbarley,or amixtureofbarleyand farroor

barleyandwheatberries.

*Use1teaspoonchoppedfreshthymeinsteadofthetarragon.

SPELTWITHESCAROLEANDMILK-POACHEDGARLIC

Serves4|vegetarian

Escaroleisanunderused,underappreciatedbraisinggreenthatIbelievedeservesmoreattention.Itsbitternessandthecrunchatthepalegreencenterofeachleafarenicelybalancedbythetender,nuttyspeltandmildpoachedgarlic.Besuretowashtheescarolewell; it’susuallygrowninsandysoil,andtheleavestendtoholdontogrit.Fillasaladspinnerbowloracleansinkwithwaterandswishtheseparatedleavesaroundinitforawhile,thenletstandforafewminutessothesandcansettleatthebottombeforeliftingouttheleaves.

•1headgarlic,clovesseparatedandpeeled•¾cup(180ml)milk•1tablespoonoliveoil•1smallheador½largeheadescarole,tornintopiecesandwashedwell•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper•2cups(390g)cookedspeltberries(thispage)•¼cup(25g)freshlygratedParmesancheese

Putthegarlicandmilkinasmallsaucepanandbringtoasimmerovermediumheat. Lower the heat and cook until the garlic is very soft, about 25minutes.Removewithaslottedspoonandsetaside.(Reservethemilkforuseinagratin,ordrinkit tobuildupyourimmunesystem—orjustyourcharacter.)Inalargesauté pan, heat the oil over medium heat and add the poached garlic cloves,escarole,anda fewpinchesof salt andpepper.Coverand let steamfor1 to2minutes, then uncover and cook, turning the escarolewith a spoon or spatula,until it iswilted and tender and the thickwhite parts of the leaves are almosttranslucent, about 3 more minutes. Add the spelt and gently fold it into theescarole and garlic. Cook until heated through and most of the liquid has

evaporated, about 5 minutes. Taste and season again, then sprinkle with thecheeseandserve.

VARIATION

*Insteadofescarole,useabout12ounces(340g)babybokchoy:Trimthestemendsandslicetheheadscrosswiseinto½-inch(12-mm)strips.

6Sweets,Snacks,andBakedGoods

Ilovecrusty,holey-crumbedwhitebreadsanddelicatechiffoncakesasmuchasthenextperson,butevenmoreIappreciatethedeeper,richerflavorsandvariedtextures of baked goods and dessertsmadewithwhole grains. Slightly chewyoatmeal cookies. Savory cornmeal muffins with no sweetener other than thenaturalsugarsinblueberriesandcornmeal.Acreamy,extra-tangycustardpieofGreekyogurtandgoodeggswithplentyoffreshlimejuiceinanuttyGraham-

style crust. Dark, dark chocolate squares full of crisp popped amaranth andchewydriedcherries.Thinryecrackerswhenyouneedsomethingcrunchyortoserve as delivery mechanisms for copious amounts of pimiento cheese (orhummus, or shards of a special cheese).Yes, these sweets, snacks, and bakedgoodsarewholegrain(onehundredpercent),buttherewillbenodoubtasyoutasteeachonethatitisatrulyspecialtreat.Trustme,youwon’tmisstherefinedstuff.

BLUEBERRYCORNMEALMUFFINSMakes12|vegetarian

Intheolddays,I’mtold,muffinswerenotsweet.Theywerewhippedupquicklyintheearlyevening,justintimetoservewithsupper—ontheplatenexttopotroast, say, rather than for breakfast. Even blueberrymuffins would be servedwiththemainmealoftheday,andtheytoowouldbesavoryatheart(ifalittlefruit-sweetand tangy). I think thesemuffinswouldbewonderful to serve toagroupoffriendsinabasketonabigpinefarmtablewithaheartyroastwithpangravyforsoppingupandaplatterofrosemaryroastedfallvegetables.

•6tablespoons(85g)unsaltedbutter,melted,plusmoreforthepan•1½cupsrawfineyellowcornmeal•1cup(140g)whitewholewheatflour•4teaspoonsbakingpowder•1teaspoonsalt•1cupfreshorfrozen(notthawed)blueberries•1½cups(360ml)milk•1largeegg

Preheattheovento425°F(220°C).Generouslybutterastandard12-cupmuffinpanorsprayitwithnonstickcookingspray.

Into a large bowl, sift the cornmeal, flour, baking powder, and salt. Spoon 2tablespoons of themixture into a small bowl, add the blueberries, and toss tocoat.Setaside.

Inaglassmeasuringcup,whisktogetherthemilk,egg,andbutter.Pourintothelargebowlwiththedryingredientsandfoldinwitharubberspatulauntilthedryingredients are justmoistened; donot overmix.Gently fold in the blueberries.

Spoonthebatterintothepreparedmuffincups.Bakeuntilgoldenbrownattheedges,15 to20minutes, rotating thepanhalfway throughso themuffinsbakeevenly.Transferthepantoawirerackandletcoolfor5minutes,thenloosentheedgeofeachmuffininseveralplaceswithathinknifeandleverthemoutwiththeknife.Letcoolcompletelyontherack.

VARIATION

*Forslightlysweeter,fruitieroliveoilmuffins,add3tablespoonsagavenectarorhoneytothewetingredients,andreplacethebutterwitholiveoil.

APPLEOATMUFFINSMakes12|vegetarian

Lightly sweetened and just right for a quick breakfast, these will be morefamiliar, asmuffins, than themore austere ones on this page.Try using otherfruits instead of the apple—a pear or a cup of frozen raspberries or cherrieswouldworkwell.Ifyoulike,stirahandfuloftoastedwalnutsorpecansintothebatter, or top each muffin with a pinch of sliced almonds, or a mixture ofchoppednutsandcoarsesugarbeforebaking.

•½cup(120ml)milk•½cup(120ml)plainGreekyogurt•1cup(160g)rawrolledoats

• ⅓ cup (80 ml) olive oil, vegetable oil, melted unsalted butter, or acombination,plusmoreforthepan

•1cup(140g)whitewholewheatflour•4teaspoonsbakingpowder•Pinchofsalt•1teaspoongroundcinnamon•1largeegg•1teaspoonpurevanillaextract•¼cup(50g)sugar•1apple,peeled,cored,anddiced

Inalargebowl,combinethemilk,yogurt,andoatsandsetasidetosoakfor30minutesto1hour.

Preheattheovento375°F(190°C).Generouslybutterastandard12-cupmuffintinorsprayitwithnonstickcookingspray.

Inalargebowl,whisktogethertheflour,bakingpowder,salt,andcinnamon.Totheoatsmixture,addtheegg,vanilla,sugar,andoilandwhiskuntilthoroughlycombined.Addtothedryingredientsandstirwithaspatulauntiljustcombined;do not overmix. Fold in the apple. Spoon into the preparedmuffin tin, fillingeachholeaboutthree-quartersfull.Bakeuntilatoothpickinsertedinthecentercomes out clean and the tops are browned, about 25minutes, rotating the tinhalfwaythrough.Loosentheedgesofthemuffinswithaknifeandtransferthemtoawirerack tocool.Themuffinswillkeep,stored inanairtightcontaineratroomtemperature,forupto3days.

RYEANDPARMESANSUPPERMUFFINSMakes12|vegetarian

Iwonderwhyyoudon’tseemanysavorymuffinsmadewithrye.Studdedwithcaraway seeds and toppedwith grated Parmesan for a toasty, crisp cap, thesewouldbeexcellentalongsidearoast,orwithatangytomatosoupfordunking.They’realsogoodgentlysplitinhalfwithasharpserratedknife,toastedunderthebroiler,andbuttered.Butthen,whatbakeryproductwouldn’tbegoodsplit,toasted,andbuttered?

•1¼cups(170g)whitewholewheatflour•¾cupplus2tablespoons(85g)wholeryeflour•4teaspoonsbakingpowder•1teaspooncarawayseeds,lightlycrushedinamortar•½teaspoonsalt•1cup(240ml)milk•1largeegg•½cup(120ml)vegetableoil•¼cup(25g)freshlygratedParmesancheese

Preheattheovento425°F(220°C).Generouslybutterastandard12-cupmuffinpanorsprayitwithnonstickcookingspray.

Inalargebowl,whisktogethertheflours,bakingpowder,caraway,andsalt.Setaside.

In a glassmeasuring cup,whisk together themilk, egg, andoil. Pour into thelargebowlwiththedryingredientsandfoldinwitharubberspatulauntilthedryingredients are just moistened; do not overmix. Spoon the batter into thepreparedmuffincupsand sprinkle the topswith thecheese.Bakeuntilgolden

brown,15to20minutes,rotatingthepanhalfwaythroughsothemuffinsbakeevenly.Transferthepantoawirerackandletcoolfor5minutes,thenloosentheedgeofeachmuffininseveralplaceswithathinknifeandleveritoutwiththeknife.Letcoolcompletelyontherack.

OATYBISCUITSMakes8largeor16smallcookies|vegetarian

This isoneof those recipesyoumaywish tocommit tomemory,andnot justbecausethequantitiesaresoeasytoremember.Intheuniverseofcookiesmadewithwholegrains,theremaybenonebetterforservingwithanimpromptupotof tea with a friend than the very U.K. ones known as oaty biscuits. Thesecookies somehowstraddle the linebetweensubstantial anddelicate, sweetandsavory(trythemwithahunkofgoodcheese).Youcanhavethemmixed,intheoven, and the bowl and saucepan cleaned and in the dish drainer in about tenminutes.

They’realsoeasilyvariedwithdifferentfloursandgrainflakesandjudiciousquantities of add-ins—see the variations for a couple ideas, but know that aslong as the resulting dough can be formed into rough disks, you can add justabout anything (as I write, my five-year-old daughter is cutting up a stalemarshmallow to stir intoherownvery loose adaptationofoatybiscuit dough;hey,whateverkeepsherbusyforafewminutes,right?).

•6tablespoons(85g)unsaltedbutter

•⅓cup(75g)brownsugar•1cup(160g)rawrolledoats•1cup(140g)whitewholewheatflour•1teaspoonbakingpowder•¼teaspoonsalt•1largeegg,beaten

Preheattheovento350°F(175°C).Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.

Inasmallheavysaucepan,melt thebutterwiththebrownsugar; letcoolfor5minutes.

Inamediumbowl,combinetheoats,flour,bakingpowder,andsalt.Stirinthebutter mixture, then the egg. Use a ¼-cup (60-ml) measure to scoop out 3-tablespoonblobs of the dough (for large cookies) or 1½-tablespoonblobs (forsmall) and drop them onto the prepared baking sheet, patting the doughwithyourpalmto¼-inch-thick(6-mm-thick)circlesatleast1½inches(4cm)apart.Bakeinthecenteroftheovenuntilfirmandgoldenbrownattheedges,about20minutes.Letcoolonthepanfor5minutes,thentransfertoawireracktocoolcompletely.Thecookieswillkeepinanairtightcontainerforupto1week.

VARIATIONS

*Addasmallhandfulofdiceddriedfruitand½teaspoongroundcinnamontothedough.

*Add2tablespoonsshreddedunsweetenedcoconutand¼cup(30g)choppedpecansorroastedunsaltedcashewstothedough.

*Useacombinationofrolledoatsandbarley,rye,andwheatflakes.

BROWNED-BUTTEROATMEALCOOKIESMakesabout14largecookies|vegetarian,glutenfree.SeeOats

The toasted oats and browned butter give these hearty cookies a deep nuttyflavor.Forsoftercookies,underbakethembyafewminutes.

•4cups(640g)rawrolledoats(notquickorinstantoats)•½cup(70g)extra-finebrownriceflour•1½teaspoonsbakingsoda•¼teaspoonsalt•1cup(2sticks/225g)unsaltedbutter•1¼cups(275g)packedbrownsugar•1largeegg•1teaspoonpurevanillaextract•1cup(165g)raisins

Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Line two baking sheets with parchmentpaper.

Inalargesautépanovermedium-highheat,toasttheoats,stirringfrequently,for4to5minutes,untilfragrant.Letcoolcompletely,thenput2cups(320g)oftheoats in a food processor and grind as finely as possible (this takes about 1½minutesinmyminifoodprocessor).Addthebrownriceflour,bakingsoda,andsaltandprocesstocombine.Setaside.

Wipeoutthesautépanandputthebutterinit.Heatovermedium-lowheatuntilmelted,thencontinuetocook,stirringoccasionally,untilthebitsofsolidsatthebottomofthepanstart tobrown,5to6minutes;removefromtheheatandletcooltolukewarm.

Inalargebowl,beatthebrownsugartogetherwiththebrownedbutteruntilwellcombined;beat in theeggandvanilla.Stir in thegroundoatmixture, then theoatsandraisins;thedoughwillbealittlecrumbly.Shapeintoslightlyflattened2-inch(5-cm)ballsbysqueezingthedoughbetweenyourpalms,andplacethem1½inches(4cm)apartonthepreparedbakingsheets.Bakeuntilgoldenbrownat the edges but still soft in the centers, 12 to 14 minutes, rotating the panhalfwaythroughsothecookiesbakeevenly.Letcoolonthepansfor5minutes,thentransfertowirerackstocool.

MASAZALETTI(CORNMEALCOOKIES)Makesabout28cookies|vegetarian,glutenfree

I’d beenmaking zaletti, the not-too-sweet Italian cornmeal cookies, for yearsbefore my mom told me they’re even better when made with at least someportionofmasaharina,andshe’sright:Thetortilla-likeflavorofthemasabringsthem back to theNewWorld and renders the cookies a bitmore savory thanwhenmadewiththeslightlysweetercornmeal.

•⅓cup(35g)driedcurrants•1½cups(190g)masaharina(preferably“fortortillas”)•1cup(140g)rawfineyellowcornmeal•Pinchofsalt•10tablespoons(140g)unsaltedbutter,melted•3largeeggyolks,beaten

•⅓cup(65g)sugar•½teaspoonbakingsoda•Gratedzestof1largelemon


Putthecurrantsinabowlandcoverwithhotwater;letsoakuntilsoft.

Meanwhile, ina largebowl,whisk together themasaharina,yellowcornmeal,andsalt.Usingarubberspatula,stirinthebutter.

Inamediumbowl,whisktogethertheeggyolks,sugar,bakingsoda,andlemonzest.Pour themixture into themasaharinamixtureandstir tocombine.Drain

the currants, reserving the soaking water; add the currants to the dough andknead gently in the bowl with your hands until the dough is thoroughlycombined,sprinklinginupto4tablespoons(60ml)ofthecurrantsoakingwateralittleatatimetomakeadoughthatholdstogetherwhenyousqueezeit.Scoopuparounded-tablespoon-sizechunkofdoughandsqueezeitintoaball;flattenitbetweenyourpalmstomakea¼-inch-thick(6-mm-thick)roundandplaceitonthe prepared baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough, and arrange therounds1inch(2.5cm)apart.Bakeuntilgoldenbrownattheedgesandfirminthecenters,about12minutes,rotatingthepanshalfwaythroughsotheybrownevenly.Letcoolonthepansfor5minutes,thentransfertowirerackstocool.

SALTEDRYECOOKIESMakesabout48cookies|vegetarian

This fairly straightforward and versatile dough can be made as drop cookiesinsteadoficebox-styleslicedlogs:Chillthedough,thenscoopitintorounded-tablespoon-sizeballs,rollinthesalt-sugarmixture,arrangeatleast1½inches(4cm)apartonthebakingsheet,andflattenslightly.Inaddition,youcansubstitutejustaboutanykindofflourfortherye.

•1cup(2sticks/225g)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature•¾cup(150g)granulatedsugar•1largeegg•Koshersalt•½teaspoonfinelygratedorangezest•2½cups(230g)whole(dark)ryeflour•3tablespoonscoarsesparklingsugarorturbinadosugar

Ina largebowl,usinganelectricmixer,creamthebutterandgranulatedsugartogetheruntil light and fluffy.Beat in the egg, apinchof salt, and theorangezest.Graduallymix in the flour.Divide thedough into twoportionsandplaceeach on a sheet of plastic wrap. Shape into logs about 2 inches (5 cm) indiameter and wrap tightly. To shape the soft dough log into a more perfectcylinder,useapaper-toweltube:Cutthetubeopenverticallyalongonesideandnest thewrapped log inside, then tapeor rubber-band the tubeclosed.Chill intherefrigeratoruntilfirm,about1hour.


Onasheetofwaxedpaper,combine1½teaspoonssaltandthesparklingsugar.Unwrapthedoughlogsandrolltheminthemixturetocoatwell.Placeeachlog

onacuttingboardandcutinto⅛-inch-thick(3-mm-thick)rounds,arrangingtherounds1 inch (2.5 cm)aparton thepreparedbaking sheets.Bakeuntil lightlybrownedattheedges,about16minutes,rotatingthepanshalfwaythroughsothecookiesbakeevenly.Removetowirerackstocoolcompletely.Thecookiescanbestoredatroomtemperatureinanairtightcontainerforupto1week.

VARIATION

*Forblackwalnut teffcookies: Insteadof the rye flour,use1⅔ cups (225g)teffflourand1cup(115g)wholespeltflour.Omit theorangezestandadd½cup (60g) choppedblackwalnuts to thedough.Roll thedough logs inmaplesugar,ifyoulike.

CORNMEALOLIVEOILCAKEWITHBASILGLAZE


This cake is a real treat: sweet and light-textured,with a simple basil-scentedglaze thatdripsattractivelydownthesideof thecakebefore it firmsup intoacrustyicing.Ifyouroliveoil isanespeciallyfruityextra-virginoneyoumightwant tocut itwitha littleneutralvegetableoil tomellowtheflavorabit.Youcanusemedium-orcoarse-grindcornmealifthat’sallyouhave;justsiftoutthelarger pieces of corn before measuring so the cake isn’t gritty. The veganvariation that follows is not at all similar in consistency or appearance, but isequallydelicious.

FORTHECAKE

•1½cups(170g)wholespeltflourorwhitewholewheatflour•½cup(70g)rawfineyellowcornmeal•¾cup(150g)sugar•4teaspoonsbakingpowder•½teaspoonsalt•2largeeggs•1cup(240ml)plainyogurt(nonfatisfine)•Finelygratedzestof1largelemon•1teaspoonpurevanillaextract•½cup(120ml)oliveoil

FORTHEGLAZE

•¼cup(60ml)half-and-halforheavycream•1sprigfreshbasil,tornup,plus6additionalwholesprigsforgarnish•1cup(100g)confectioners’sugar

•2tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

MAKETHECAKE

Preheattheovento350°F(175°C).Lightlyoila9-inch(23-cm)springformpanorsprayitwithnonstickcookingspray.(Alternatively,useadeep9-inch/23-cm round regular pan.) In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal,sugar,bakingpowder,andsalt.

In a separatemedium bowl, whisk together the eggs, yogurt, lemon zest, andvanilla,thenwhiskintheoil.Pourthemixtureintothedryingredientsandfoldwitharubberspatulauntiljustcombined;donotovermix.Scrapethebatterintothepreparedpanandsmooththetop.Bakeonthecenterrackoftheovenuntilatoothpick inserted in thecenter comesout cleanand thecakehaspulledawayfromthesideof thepan,35 to40minutes.Set thepanonawire rack tocoolslightly.

MAKETHEGLAZE

While the cake is baking, combine the half-and-half and torn basil in a smallheavysaucepan,andbringtoaboil.Removefromtheheat,cover,andletsteepfor 20 minutes. Sift the confectioners’ sugar into a small bowl and pour thecreamthroughafine-meshsieveintothebowl.Whiskuntilsmooth,thenwhiskinthelemonjuice.

Remove theouter ringof thecakepan. (Ifyouusedaregularpan, runaknifearoundtheedgetoloosenit,theninvertontoasecondrack,carefullyremovethepan, then reinvert so the cake is right side up.) Slide a piece ofwaxed paperundertheracktocatchdripsofglaze.Whilethecakeisstillwarm,spoonabouthalfof theglazeover the topand let itdripprettilydown thesides.When theglazeisset,afterabout15minutes,spoononsomemoreoftheglaze(youmaynotuseallofit).Letthecakecoolcompletely,thentransfertoacakeplate(withorwithoutthepanbottom),andgarnishwiththebasilsprigs.

VARIATION

*Tomakeavegancornmealcake,increasetheflourto1¾cups(200g).Omittheeggs.Insteadoftheyogurt,use1¼cups(300ml)plainnut,soy,orricemilkplus2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice. In theglaze,usenut, soy,orricemilkinsteadofhalf-and-half.Thecakewillbemoisteranddenserthanthe

nonveganversion, sort of like a brownie,with an addictively chewy, caramel-flavorededge,andtheglazewillbemoreofasyrupthatsoaksintothecakethananicingthatsitsatopit.

CARDAMOMAPPLECRISPServes4to6|vegetarian

Fruit crisps are usually afterthoughts in my family, desserts Mom throwstogetherwithsomenut-butter-oattoppingfromthefreezerandsticksintheovenjustbeforesupper’sready.Butthisone,withcardamom,isjustspecialenoughtoplantomakeandserveforguests.Ifyouhavecast-ironminicocottedishesorsingle-serving-sizeovenproofcups,youcandividethefruitandtoppingamongthemandarrangethemonasheetpantobake.

•6tablespoons(85g)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusmoreforthepan•2½pounds(1.2kg)apples(about6),preferablyamixofsweetandtart•½cup(60g)wholewheatorwhitewholewheatflour•½cup(55g)rawrolledoats•½cup(110g)brownsugar•1¼teaspoonsgroundcardamom•½teaspoonfreshlygratednutmeg•Milkforserving(optional)

Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Lightly butter a 9-inch (23-cm) squarebakingpan.

Peel(ifyoulike),core,andslicetheapples¼inch(6mm)thickandputtheminthepreparedbakingpan.

Inamediumbowl,combine theremaining ingredients,working thebutter intothe dry ingredients with your fingertips. Scatter the mixture over the apples,pinchingsomeof it intoclumps.Bakeuntil the topping isnicelybrownedandtheapplesaretender,about30minutes.Servewarminbowls,withasplashofmilk,ifusing.

VARIATIONS

* To make gluten-free crisp topping, use brown rice flour, quinoa flour,buckwheat flour, or almond meal instead of wheat flour, and be sure to usegluten-freeoats.

*Trypears,peaches,nectarines,orplumsinsteadoforinadditiontotheapples.

*Usegroundcinnamoninsteadofcardamomandadd½teaspoongroundclovestothetopping.

* Add a handful of choppedwalnuts or pecans to the topping, and stir someraisins(plumpedinrumorbrandy,perhaps)intotheapples.

*Sprinklethefruitwithalittlerosewaterorgrateinsomeorangezestandaddahandfulofchoppedpistachiostothetopping.

LIMECUSTARDPIEWITHALMONDAND“GRAHAM-FLOUR”CRUST

Serves8|vegetarian

Thestandardfour-ingredientKeylimepie(graham-crackercrustfromthestore,bottledKeylimejuice,sweetenedcondensedmilk,eggyolks—period)ishardtobeat,I’lladmitthatrightaway.Butthispiedoesit.Byawidemargin.Let’sstartwiththecrust,whichcombineswholewheatpastryflour(madefromsoftwhitewheat) and coarser wheat bran and/or germ to approximate hard-to-find trueGraham flour.Thegroundalmondscontribute to the crumbly, crunchy textureandenrichthecrustwithalittlemorefat.Thefillingissimplicityitself:aquickwhiskofwholeeggs,Greekyogurt,limejuice,andatouchofsugartobalancethedoublehitoftanginessthatbakesintoadelicate, light, tremblingcustard.Itend to serve the pie just straight up, but a drift of whipped creamwould besplendidtoo.

FORTHECRUST

•1cup(110g)wholealmonds

•⅓cup(65g)sugar•1cup(130g)wholewheatpastryflour•¼cup(20g)wheatbranortoastedwheatgerm,oracombination•½teaspoonsalt•½cup(1stick/110g)unsaltedbutter,melted

FORTHEFILLINGANDTOSERVE

•3largeeggs•1½cups(360ml)plainGreekyogurt

•⅔cup(130g)sugar

•⅔cup(160ml)freshlysqueezedlimejuice•Lightlysweetenedwhippedcream(optional)•Verythinlyslicedlime(optional)

MAKETHECRUST

In a food processor or blender, process the almonds and sugar until finelyground.Transfertoamediumbowlandaddtheflour,wheatbranand/orgerm,andsaltandwhisktocombine.Drizzleinthebutterandusearubberspatulatostirwithaquickcuttingmotionuntil thedryingredientsareevenlymoistened.Patthemixturefirmlyintoa9-or9½-inch(23-or24-cm)glasspiedish,makingsurethecrustisevenandthatitextendsallthewayupthesides.Setasideintherefrigeratortochillfor30minutes.


MAKETHEFILLING

In a largebowl,whisk the eggs,yogurt, and sugar togetheruntil smooth, thenwhiskinthelimejuiceuntilsmoothandthesugarisdissolved.Setaside.

Baketheemptycrustinthecenteroftheovenfor10minutes.Pourinthefillingand carefully return the pie dish to the oven. Immediately lower the oventemperatureto325°F(165°C)andbakeuntil thefillingis justset in thecenter(it’llstillbejiggly)andthecrustisnicelybrowned,55to60minutes.Letcoolonawirerackfor2hours,thenrefrigerateuntilverycold,atleast2hours.

Sliceandservewithwhippedcreamandlime,ifyou’dlike.Thepiewillkeep,coveredinplasticwrapintherefrigerator,forupto1day.

SWEETLEMONQUINOACUSTARDSWITHPAPAYASYRUPServes6|vegan,glutenfree

Thiselegant,clean-tastingdessertcouldn’tbesimpler.Infact,theonlychallengemightbefindingenoughsort-of-matchingcustardcupsandtheagarpowderorflakes(checkthebakingaisleorbulk-spicesectionsofthehealthfoodstore,orthespecialtyor“organic”areaofagoodsupermarket).Ifkeepingitvegetarianisn’tthegoal,youcanalsomakethesepseudo-custardswithunflavoredgelatin:Inasmallsaucepan,stir1teaspoongelatininto¼cup(60ml)waterandletsoakfor5minutes, thenheat itoververy lowheat, stirring justuntil it’sdissolved,thencontinuewiththerecipe,stirringinthealmondmilk,sugar,andsoon.Also,feelfreetouseregularwholemilkifyoulike.

FORTHECUSTARDS

•2cups(370g)cookedquinoa(thispage)•Gratedzestof1lemon•1teaspoonagarpowder,or2tablespoonsagarflakes•2cups(480ml)almondmilk(thispage)

•⅔cup(130g)sugar•Pinchofsalt

FORTHEPAPAYASYRUP

•1smallripepapaya,peeled,halved,seeded,andchopped•½cup(100g)sugar

MAKETHECUSTARDS

Setsix6-ounce(180-ml)custardcupsorramekinsinabakingpanoronaplate.(Ifyouwanttoservetheminthecups,youcanuseprettymismatchedteacups,astheywon’tneedtobeheatedinthisrecipe,justchilled.)Putthequinoaandlemonzestinalargebowlandsetaside.

Inasmallheavysaucepan,bring¼cup(60ml)watertoaboil.Addtheagarandstirwell.Removefromtheheatand let soakfor5minutes.Stir in thealmondmilk, sugar, and salt and bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirringconstantly. Simmer for 1minute (themixturewill start to thicken), then pouroverthequinoamixture.Stirwell,thendividethe“custard”amongthecustardcups.Putintherefrigeratoruntilsetandchilled,about2hours(itwillsetinlessthanhalfthattime,butitshouldbeservedcompletelycold).Ifnotservingrightaway,coverwithplasticwrap.

MAKETHEPAPAYASYRUP

Putthepapaya,sugar,and½cup(120ml)waterinaheavysaucepanandbringto a boil. Lower the heat and simmer until the papaya is very tender and thethinner edges start to become translucent, 15 to 25minutes depending on theripenessof thefruit.Transfer toabowlorothercontainerandrefrigerateuntilchilled,about2hours.

To serve, loosen the edge of each custardwith a knife and turn it out onto a

servingplate.Spoonthepapayasyrupandslicesoverthetopandserve.

VARIATIONS

*Foravanillacustard:Omitthelemonzestandadd1splitandscrapedvanillabean to the custardmixture. (After simmering, rinse, pat dry, and reserve thevanillabeanpodforanotheruse.)*Foracoconutcustard:Replace1cup(240ml) of the almondmilkwith coconutmilk and add 1 tablespoon unsweetenedshreddedcoconuttothecustardmixture.

*Use2mangoesinsteadofapapaya.

QUINOAANDCHICKPEA-FLOURSWEETSWITHCARDAMOM

Makes24;serves6|vegan,glutenfree

Thesepan-friedsweetsareasweet,quinoa-enhancedtakeonFrenchpanisse,orchickpea-flour fries. I’ve always loved panisse in theory, as a low-glycemicsubstituteforfriedpotatoes,morethaninpractice:Thesoft,custardlikeinterioralwaysseemedjustalittleofftome,andthechickpeaflour(akabesan)alittlebland.Quinoaandcardamomtotherescue!Quinoagivesthebattersomeneededstructureand texture,andcardamomsortofclarifiesandgrounds the flavorofthebesan.

•About½cup(120ml)vegetableoil,plusmoreforthepan•1cup(130g)chickpeaflour(besan),plusmorefordredging•½teaspoongroundcardamom•Pinchofsalt•¼cup(55g)brownsugar•1½cups(275g)cookedquinoa(thispage),cooled•2tablespoonsconfectioners’sugar

Lightlyoila9-inch(23-cm)squarebakingpan.

Siftthe1cupchickpeaflour,thecardamom,andsaltintoaheavy2-quart(2-L)saucepan.Whisk in thebrownsugar, thenwhisk in1cup(240ml)wateruntilfairly smooth. Whisk in another 1 cup (240 ml) water. Place the pan overmedium-high heat and cook, stirring frequently with a heatproof spatula andscraping the flour paste from the bottom and the corners of the pan, until themixtureisathickpaste,about8minutes.Removefromtheheatandquicklystirin thequinoa, thenspread themixtureoutevenly in thepreparedpanabout½inch(12mm)thick,pattingitsmoothwithyourdampenedhandsasnecessary.

Transferthepantotherefrigeratoruntilcooledandfirm,about15minutes.

Cut the chickpea-flour “cake” into 24 small triangles. Spread some chickpeaflouronaplateanddredgetherectanglesintheflourtocoatbothsides,shakingofftheexcess.

Inalarge,heavysautépan,preferablynotnonstick,putenoughoiltocoverthebottom.Heatovermedium-highheat.Whentheoilisshimmering,addsomeofthechickpea-flourtrianglesinasinglelayer,beingcarefulnottocrowdthepan.Cookwithoutturningfor3to4minutes,untildeepgoldenbrownonthebottom(you’llnoticethebottomedgesbeginningtobrown).Usingathinmetalspatula,turn the triangles over and brown the other side. Remove to paper towels todrain.Repeatwiththeremainingtriangles,wipingoutthepanandaddingmoreoilasnecessary.(Thesweetscanbemadeupto2hoursinadvanceandwarmedandcrispedinacleandrysautépanjustbeforeserving.)Puttheconfectioners’sugarinasieveandsiftitoverthesweets.Servewarm.

BLACKRICEPUDDINGWITHCOCONUTMILKANDCANDIEDSWEETPOTATO


A couple years ago,my friendReganHuff brought over an old yogurt tub ofblackricepuddingshe’dmade,andweateit.Outofhercolorfulwoven-plastic-tapemarketbagthatI’vecometoconsider infusedwithsomekindofculinarymagic, she also pulled a second yogurt tub. This one, labeled BLACK RICEPUDDINGFORLATER,containedrawblackrice,oneofthoseawesomeminicansofThaicoconutmilk,andahandwrittenrecipe.

•1cup(190g)rawblackrice,soakedovernightanddrained

•⅔cup(150g)brownsugarorturbinadosugar•1smallsweetpotato,peeledanddiced•½(13.5-ounce400-ml)cancoconutmilk(about¾cup80ml),plusmoreforserving

•¼teaspoonsalt•Toastedsesameseedsorchoppedroastedpeanuts

Inaheavy2-quart (2-L)saucepan,combine thesoaked riceand1½cups (360ml)waterandbring toaboil.Stir, thencover, lower theheat tovery low,andcookforabout40minutes.

Meanwhile,inaseparatesmallsaucepan,combine⅓cup(75g)ofthesugarand1 cup (240 ml) water and add the sweet potato. Bring to a boil, stirringfrequently,thenlowertheheatandsimmerbrisklyuntilthesweetpotatoisabittranslucent at the edges and very tender but still holds its shape, 25 to 30minutes;thesyrupwillbereducedandthewateralmostcompletelyevaporated,sowatch closely toward the end of the cooking and stir or lower the heat asnecessarytopreventsticking.Transferthesweetpotatotoabowlandsetaside.

Inthesamesaucepan,combinethecoconutmilk,salt,andremaining⅓cup(75g)sugarandbringtoaboil,stirringtodissolvethesugarandsalt.

When the rice is tender andmostof the liquidhasbeenabsorbed,pour in thecoconutmilkmixtureandstirwell.Bringtoaboilandcook,stirringfrequently,until themixture is theconsistencyof thin ricepudding.Spoon smallportionsinto small dessert bowls, topwith the sweet potato and sesame seeds, drizzlewithmorecoconutmilk,ifdesired,andservewarmoratroomtemperature.Thepuddingandsweetpotatocanbemadeupto1dayinadvanceandrefrigerated.Warm the pudding over very low heat, adding a little water if necessary toloosenit,beforeserving.

SWEETCRACKED-WHEATPUDDINGWITHCARDAMOMANDCASHEWS

Serves4|vegan

Onlyslightlysweetforanafter-supperpudding,butverycomfortingandhomeynonetheless, this fairly classic Indian dessert canwithstand all sorts ofwhimsandfancies:Useanothergraininsteadofcrackedwheatandadjustthecookingtimeandwaterquantityasnecessary(millet,quinoa,andshort-grainricewouldallworkwell).Useanykindofmilk(soymilk,ricemilk,orregularcow’smilkfor a nonvegan version); any sweet-dessert spices and flavorings you findappealing(justapincheachofgroundclovesandcinnamon,somegratedorangezestfromthefreezerdoor,ausedvanillabeanpod);andanynutsthatwouldgowell—orevenfreshcut-upfruitorberries.

•1cup(160g)rawcrackedwheat•3cups(720ml)almondmilk(thispage)•¼cup(55g)packedbrownsugar•½teaspoongroundcardamom•¼cup(35g)roastedunsaltedcashews

In a heavy 2-quart (2-L) saucepan, combine the cracked wheat, milk, brownsugar,andcardamom.Bringtoaboil,thenlowertheheatandsimmeruntilthecrackedwheatistender,about20minutes.Servewarminsmallbowls,sprinkledwith cashews, or put in the refrigerator until very cold; stir well and sprinklewithcashewsbeforeservingchilled.

VARIATIONS

*Thisisalsogreatwithfreekeh,orcrackedgreenwheat,insteadoftheregularcrackedwheat.

*Addasplashofrosewaterjustbeforeserving.

* For a thicker pudding, add¼ cup (40 g) rolled oats alongwith the crackedwheat.Orifyouaren’tconcernedwithkeepingitvegan,put1largeeggyolkinasmallbowland,usingafork,graduallywhiskinaspoonfulofthehotcracked-wheatmixture;gradually stir theegg-yolkmixtureback into the saucepanandcook,stirringfrequently,for5minutes—donotboil.

DOUBLE-QUINOAVANILLAPUDDINGServes4to6|vegetarian,glutenfree

Youknowhowyoucravevanillapuddingwhenyou’resick,orsad,orjustbonetired? Maybe that just runs in my family. Anyway, this is the same sort ofdessert.Creamy,alittlesweet,andverysoothing.Thequinoa—bothwholeandthin rolled flakes sold as a quick-cooking breakfast porridge—boosts thenutritionalcontent,whichIthinkcanonlymakeitmorecomforting.WhenI’mhealthy,Ilikeitwithtartfreshfruitorberriesandcrunchynutsascounterpointstotherich,softpudding—butwhenI’mnot,theplaincustarditselfisallIwantorneed.

•3cups(720ml)milk

•⅓cup(65g)sugar•½cup(85g)rawivoryquinoa,wellrinsed•½cup(50g)quinoaflakes•1largeeggyolk•½teaspoonpurevanillaextract•2ripepeaches,nectarines,orplums,pittedanddiced• Toasted sliced almonds, toasted pepitas, toasted sesame seeds, and/orgroundcinnamon,totaste(optional)

Inaheavy2-quart(2-L)saucepan,combinethemilk,sugar,andwholequinoa.Bringtoaboil,watchingcarefullytomakesureitdoesn’tboilover,thenlowertheheat and simmer, stirringoccasionally,until thequinoa is tender, about20minutes. Stir in the quinoa flakes and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 3minutes.Puttheeggyolkinasmallbowlandverygraduallywhiskinabout½cup (120ml) of the hot quinoamixture, then graduallywhisk it back into thesaucepan;donotletthepuddingboilafteryou’veaddedtheeggyolk.Cookoverlowheat for 2minutes,whisking frequently.Whisk in thevanilla and remove

fromtheheat.Let stand for5minutes to thicken, thenspoon intosmallbowlsandtopwiththepeaches.Ifyoulike,topwithtoastedalmonds,pepitas,sesameseeds,and/orcinnamon.

Alternatively,afteraddingthevanilla, transfer toabowl,putapieceofplasticwrapdirectlyonthesurface,andrefrigerateuntilverycold,about2hours;servechilledwiththepeachesandaddtheothertoppingsasdesired.

WHOLEWHEATCOCONUTANDPISTACHIOLADOO(INDIANSWEETS)

Makesabout14sweets|vegetarian

Ladoo are Indian sweetmeatsmade bymelting ghee and stirring in flour andflavorings, cooking until thick and toasty, then either forming the resultingdoughintolittlewalnut-sizesphereswhileit’sstillhotorpressingitintoapanandcuttingintosquareswhenit’sfirmandcool.Thelittletreatsaremostoftenmadewithchickpeaflour(besan),but they’re justasmelt-in-your-mouth—andevenmore flavorful, Iwas happy to discover—whenmadewithwholewheatflour.This isanexcellent time touseagoodstone-groundwholewheat flour,whose coarse texture and darker flavor work better here than in many bakedgoodsinwhichtheycanbecomeoverpowering.

•1cup(2sticks/225g)unsaltedbutter,or¾cup(85g)ghee•1¾cups(200g)wholewheatflour•¼cup(25g)unsweetenedshreddedcoconut•½cup(110g)packeddarkbrownsugar•½teaspoonpurevanillaextract•¼cup(30g)shelledpistachios(saltedorunsalted),groundorveryfinelychopped

Ifusingbutter,inaheavy2-quart(2-L)saucepan,meltthebutterovermedium-highheat.Continue tocookatabrisksimmeruntil the foamon topdissipatesand turns to larger bubbles, about 5 minutes. Carefully pour into a heatproofcontainerandletstandforafewminutes;wipeoutthesaucepan.Spoonoffanywhitesolidsfromthetopofthebutteranddiscard.Slowlypourtheclearbutterbackintothesaucepan, leavingthewhitesolidsat thebottominthecontainer;discard the solids. (Ifusingghee, simplymelt it in the saucepanovermediumheat.)Addtheflourandcoconutandcookovermediumheat,stirringconstantly

withaheatproof spatula, for5minutes,oruntil the flour smells toastyandnolongerraw.Addthebrownsugarandvanillaandcook,stirring,untilthesugarismeltedandthoroughlyincorporated,about5minutes.Scrapethemixtureintoabakingpanordishandpackittightlywiththespatulaintoalayerabout½inch(12mm)thick,squaringoffortrimmingtheedgesasevenlyasyoucan.Sprinklethepistachiosoverthetopandpresswiththespatulaoryourpalmtomakethemadhere.Letcoolfor5minutes,thencutintosquaresandletcoolcompletelyonawirerack.Storeinanairtightcontainerintherefrigerator;thesweetswillkeepforupto1week.

CHEWYCHOCOLATE-TAHINIPUFFED-GRAINSQUARES

Makes16|vegetarian

These chewy, dense squares were inspired by a recipe in Terry Walters’sbrilliantbookCleanFood.There’sverylittleinherethatisn’tgoodforyou,andyetmydaughter—whoiscertainlynostrangertorealsweets—absolutelylovesthem.Parentsinparticularshouldappreciatethevalueofatreat-snackyoudon’treallyhavetothinktwiceaboutallowing.Thesekeepnicelyforuptotwoweeksintherefrigerator.

If you want to keep it gluten free, use puffed brown rice or millet or acombination of the two.Youmight also consider substituting sunflower seedsforthealmonds(allergenictomanykids)ifyouplantopackoneoftheseintoakid’sschoollunchboxorsendthemtoschoolasatreatfortheclass.

•1cup(110g)wholealmonds•4cups(60g)unsweetenedpuffedKamut,brownrice,spelt,ormillet,oracombination

•2tablespoonsshreddedunsweetenedcoconut(optional)•1tablespoonflaxseeds,coarselyground•3tablespoonsoliveorvegetableoil•½cup(120ml)honeyormaplesyrup•2ounces(55g)bittersweetchocolate,chopped•2tablespoonstahini•Pinchofsalt

Inafoodprocessororblender,pulsethealmondsuntilfinelyground.Dumpintoalargebowlandaddthepuffedgrains,coconut,ifusing,andflaxseeds.

Ina smallheavy saucepan, combine theoil, honey, chocolate, tahini, and salt.

Cook over medium heat just until the chocolate is melted and the mixture issemi-uniform.Pourover themixturein thebowlandstirwitharubberspatulauntilwellcoated.Dumpthemixtureintoa9-inch(23-cm)squarebakingpanordish and press firmlywith your palms or the spatula to an even layer. Use abench knife ormetal spatula to cut into 16 squares, then cover and put in therefrigerator until firm, about 15minutes. Transfer to an airtight container andstoreintherefrigeratorforupto2weeks.

VARIATION

*Forvanillasquares(pictured):Add½cup(35g)nonfatdrymilkpowdertothepuffed-grains mixture. Use 3 ounces (85 g) white chocolate instead of thebittersweet.Use 2 tablespoons butter instead of the oil.Add½ teaspoon purevanillaextracttotheliquidmixtureafteryouremoveitfromtheheat.

AMARANTHANDDRIEDCHERRYCHOCOLATES

Makesabout16chocolates|vegetarian,glutenfree

Addvalue to ablockofgoodchocolatewith crisppuffedamaranthand fancydried cherries—preferably sour cherries, if you can find them—andgive thesetiny confections as a holiday gift. They’ll keep for a good while at roomtemperature,asthemeltedchocolateiseffectivelytemperedbyseeding,addingunmeltedchocolatealittleatatime.However,tominimizetheriskofmeltingorgettingmessyintheirwrappersthey’rebestrefrigerated.

•8ounces (225g)good-qualitydarkchocolate,at least60%cacaosolidsandpreferablyaround72%

•Pinchofsalt•1¼cups(75g)poppedamaranth(thispage)•¼cup(25g)choppeddriedcherries

Linethebottomofasmalltrayorbakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.

Finely chop the chocolate and put half of it in a heatproof bowl set over asaucepanofsimmeringwater;don’tletthewatertouchthebottomofthebowl.Heat the chocolate, stirring constantly, untilmost of it ismelted.Remove thebowl from the saucepan and dry off the bottom of the bowl to remove anycondensation (you don’t want any water to get into the chocolate). Stirringconstantlywithaspatula,addtheremainingchocolatealittleatatime,stirringuntil each bit is mostly melted before adding more; it should take at least 5minutes to add the remaining chocolate. If the chocolate cools to lukewarmbefore it’s allmelted, set the bowl back over the hotwater (off the heat) andkeepstirring.Whenallthechocolateismelted,addthesalt,1cup(60g)ofthepoppedamaranth,andthedriedcherriesandstirwell.

Scrapethemixtureintothepreparedtrayandspreadouttoabout¼inch(6mm)thick. Smooth the top as well as you can. Sprinkle the remaining poppedamaranth evenly over the top and press lightly with your palm so it adheres.Transfer to the refrigerator to cool for about 5 minutes, until set but notcompletelyhard.(Thechocolateiseasiertocutwhenstilljustabitsoft.)Liftthechocolateslaboutofthetrayandontoacuttingboard;peeloffthepaperandcutintopieces.Returntotherefrigeratoruntilveryfirm,atleast30minutes.Serve.Tostorethechocolates,wrapeachpieceinwaxedpaperandkeepinanairtightcontainerintherefrigeratororinacoolspot.

VARIATION

*Usechoppedtoastedandskinnedhazelnutsortoastedalmondsinsteadoforinaddition to the dried cherries. Any other dried fruit would be nice too—especiallytinycurrantsorblueberries.

LEDA’SALEGRÍAS(MEXICANPUFFEDAMARANTHSWEETS)

Makes24sweets|vegetarian,glutenfree

Servetheselittlesquaresofsweet,chewy,crispamaranthandsesameseedswitha bowl of sliced ripemango sprinkledwith fresh lime juice, following a lightsupper—I’m thinking the chicken and wild rice soup (on this page), or corntortillasfilledwithcumin-spicedbraisedgreens(onthispage)andaspoonfulofblackbeans(onthispage).Andbecausetheseare,Ithink,ascloseasanyone’sgoing toget tohealthfulRiceKrispy treats,other than thenut-enrichedsweetsontheoppositepage,Iwouldn’thesitatetotuckoneintoakid’slunchbox.

•¼cup(½stick/55g)unsaltedbutter,plusmoreforthebakingdish•2cups(120g)poppedamaranth(thispage)•½cup(75g)sesameseeds,toasted•¼cup(60ml)maplesyrup•2tablespoonsmolasses•¼teaspoongroundcinnamon

•⅓cup(45g)diceddriedapricotsordriedcurrants

Buttera9-by-13-inch(23-by-33-cm)bakingdishorpan.Put theamaranthandsesameseedsinalargebowlandsetaside.

In a small heavy saucepan, combine the maple syrup, molasses, butter,cinnamon,andapricots.Bring toaboilovermediumheat, then lower theheatandcook,stirringconstantlywithasiliconespatulaorwoodenspoon,until themixturethickenstoasyrupconsistency.Pourovertheamaranthmixtureandstirto coat evenly. Press the mixture firmly and evenly into the prepared bakingdish. Let cool completely, then cut into squares. The sweets will keep, in anairtightcontaineratroomtemperature,foratleast5days.

DON’TGETLOVESICK[SIC]

Among many hikers, backpackers, bikers, and other gluttons forpunishment,thephrase“Don’tgetlovesick”isasengrainedinthepsycheastheorthographyoflovesickapparentlyisinmyown.Thefirstlettersofthemneumonicdevicestandfor:DAIRY,GRAINS,LEGUMES,SEEDS.

Meat,eggs,andotheranimal-derivedproteinsprovideontheirownalltheessential amino acids our bodies need to ingest in order to survive—they’recompleteproteins,inotherwords.Buteachfoodinthecategoriesabovegenerallyneedstobecombinedwithafoodfromacategoryononeor the other side of it in the sequence to make a complete protein thatcontainsalltheaminoacids.Sodairyandgrains(preferablywholegrains,of course), grains and legumes (beans, peanuts), and legumes and oilyseeds or nuts will together provide a complete protein. Though it isn’tnecessarilytruethattheimperfectproteinsmustbeconsumedatthesamemeal,atthesametime,tobefullyusedbythebodyasacompleteprotein,countlessclassicfoodpairingsaretheresultofthatlong-heldbelief:beansand rice, lentils and rice (see this page for a stellar example), chickpeasand tahini (in traditional hummus), milk and cereal, peanut butter andbread,cheeseandcrackers.

TRAILBARSMakes16bars|vegan,glutenfree.SeeOats

Thisisasoft,not-too-sweetoatbarthatwouldbeperfectfortuckingintoalunchbox or picnic basket, and an ideal trail snack: Itswhole oats, nuts, and seedsmakeacompleteprotein,andthedriedfruitisfillingandenergy-dense.

•⅓cup(80ml)vegetableoil,plusmoreforthepan•1cup(200g)mixeddriedfruit,suchasraisins,cranberries,andchoppedapricots

•½cup(75g)halvedandpitteddates•1cup(90g)mixed,unsaltednuts,suchaswalnutorpecanhalves,slicedorsliveredalmonds,andhazelnuts

•2tablespoonsflaxorsesameseeds•2cups(320g)rawrolledoats•½teaspoonsalt•½cup(125g)unsweetenedapplesauce

Preheat theovento350°F(175°C).Lightlyoila9-inch(23-cm)squarebakingpan.

Put thedriedfruitanddates inaheatproofbowlandcoverwithboilingwater.Letsoftenforabout5minutes,thendrain,pressingoutexcesswater.Setaside.

Toast the nuts in a small sauté pan overmedium-high heat until fragrant andlightlycolored,about3minutes.Transfertoasmallfoodprocessorandpulse2or3timestocoarselychop.Transfertoalargebowl.

In the foodprocessor (noneed toclean itout),grind the flax seedsand1cup(160 g) of the oats until very fine (it’s okay ifmost of the flax seeds remain

whole).Addtothenutsinthebowl,alongwiththesaltandtheremaining1cup(160g)ofoats.

Againusingthefoodprocessor,puree thesofteneddriedfruit.Addtheoilandapplesauceandpulsetocombine.Pourintotheoatmixtureandstirwellwitharubberspatula.Pressthemixturefirmlyandevenlyintothepreparedpanusingthe spatula or, better, your palm to pack it down. Using ametal spatula or abenchknife,cutthedoughinto16squaresinthepan.Bakeinthecenteroftheovenuntilfirmandlightlybrowned,about20minutes.Placethepanonawirerack and let cool to room temperature, then remove from the pan, wrap eachsquareinwaxedpaper,andstoreinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto1week.

OLD-FASHIONEDPOPCORNMakesabout2quarts(60g)|vegan,glutenfree

Airpoppingisfineandall,butwhohasroomforanairpopper?Mypopcorn-obsessedmomanddad,that’swho.Theyhaveeveryimaginableitemofpopcornparaphernalia, including a Plexiglass-enclosed movie-theater-style popcornpopperwithanenormouscountertopfootprinttowhichtheydon’tseemtominddevotingkitchenspace.ButIbelievethey’reoutliers.Tomakepopcornonthestove,thewayitwasmeanttobemade,youdon’tneedtousenearlyasmuchoilassomefolksclaim,justatablespoonforeightcups(60g)ofpoppedcorn,andtheimprovementinflavoroverairpoppediswortheverydrop.

•1tablespoonvegetableoroliveoil•½cup(80g)rawpoppingcorn•Seasonings,asdesired

Haveoneortwolargebowlsready.

Inaheavy4-quart(3.8-L)saucepanorpotwithalid,heattheoiland1kernelofthepopcornoverhighheatwiththelidon.Whenthekernelpops,liftthelidandcarefullyaddtheremainingpopcorn.Immediatelyputthelidbackon,butleaveitslightlyajar.Holdingthelidwithapotholder,shakethepanbackandforthvigorously over the heat until the popping seems to have slowed, about 2minutes, then remove it from the heat. Keep shaking until the popping hasmostlystopped,thendumpthepopcornintooneofthelargebowls.

If you like (and especially if you’re planning to use the popcorn for caramelcorn, as on this page), remove the unpopped kernels: Shake the bowl so theheavy kernels fall to the bottom. Lift the popped corn out of the bowl andtransferittothesecondbowl;discardorrepoptheunpoppedkernels.Tosswithseasonings,ifdesired,andserve.

SIMPLESEASONINGS

•Finesalt(grindkosherortablesalttoapowderinamortar)

•Nutritionalyeast

•Gomashio(thispage),groundtoapowder•Roastedandgroundnoriseaweed

•Sweetfallspices:1tablespoongroundcinnamon,1teaspoongroundallspice,1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg, and ½ teaspoon ground cloves • AteaspoonortwoofChinesefive-spicepowder

•Ateaspoonortwoofchaatmasala

•AfewteaspoonsofCajunspiceblend:¼cupgroundcayenne;1tablespooneachpaprika,groundcoriander,andblackpepper;2teaspoonsgroundcloves;1½teaspoonsgarlicpowder;1 teaspoondried thyme,crumbled;andsalt totasteifdesired.(Theremainingspiceblendwillkeepindefinitelyinaliddedjar.)INSPIRATIONALCOMBINATIONS

•Mycurrent favorite:Finelygrind salt andcitric acid together (citric acid isoften available in the canning supplies section of grocery stores, or in thebulkspicessectionofhealthfoodstores)andsprinkleongenerously.It’slikesalt-and-vinegarpotatochips.

•Mincegarlicandsautéuntilgoldeninoliveoil(anduseoliveoilforcookingthe popcorn). Season with plenty of fine salt and maybe some driedrosemary.

•Combinegroundcayenneandalittlerawsugarinamortarandgrindtogetherbeforesprinklingoverthepopcorn.

•Meltedbutter,groundcinnamon,andapinchofsugarandsalt.

•Sprinklewithalittlesoysauceandwasabipowder.

•Finelygratelemonzestrightoverthebowl(tocatchtheflavorfullemonoil

thatspraysoutasyougrate),thensprinklewithfinesaltand/orsugar.

• Finely grate lime zest into the popcorn, then sprinkle with finely gratedParmesan,groundcayenne,andgroundcumin.

• Grate dark chocolate over hot popcorn and seasonwith ground cinnamon,groundcayenne,gratedorangezest,perhapsalittlesugar,andfinesalt.

• Combine unsweetened cocoa powder, confectioners’ sugar, and groundcinnamonandsprinkleover(ideally,buttered)popcorn.

• Monica’s Indian-spiced popcorn: Before popping the corn, combine ½teaspoon ground cumin, ½ teaspoon ground cayenne, and ¼ teaspoonturmericandaddthemixturetothehotoilwiththepopcornkernels.Seasonthe spiced popcorn with fine salt, then toss with roasted unsalted peanuts,dicedredonion,andmincedfreshcilantro.Servewithlemonsforsqueezingoverthepopcornatthelastminute.

SESAME-COCONUTCARAMELCORNWITHAGAVENECTAR

Makesabout4quarts(460g)|vegetarian,glutenfree

Here’sabasic,nearlyfoolproofbakedcaramelcorn;afewideasforvariationsfollow.It is importantthatyouemployacandythermometeroraninstant-readthermometer,as thetemperatureof thecaramelrisesquickly,andthehard-balltestistootime-consumingand,inmyopinion,justtooannoyingtobeuseful.(Incaseyoustillwanttousethattest,dripadropofthecaramelintoacupofcoldwater.Ifitformsahardballthatisjustbarelysqueezablebetweenyourthumbandfinger,it’sready.)

•4quarts(120g)poppedcorn(twobatchesOld-FashionedPopcorn;thispage),unpoppedkernelsremoved

•½cup(75g)sesameseeds,toasted•½cup(45g)unsweetenedshreddedcoconut,toasted•½cup(1stick/110g)unsaltedbutter

•⅓cup(80ml)agavenectar•½cup(110g)brownsugar•¾teaspoonsalt•¼teaspoonbakingsoda

Preheattheovento250°F(120°C).Lightlygreasetwo9-by-13-inch(23-by-33-cm)bakingdishesorpansorthreesmallerones.

Puthalfofthepopcornineachoftwolargeheatproofbowls(oronehugebowlifyouhaveone);pilethesesameseedsandcoconutontopandsetaside.

Inaheavy2-quart(2-L)saucepan,meltthebutterovermedium-highheat.Stirintheagavenectar,brownsugar,andsalt.Bringtoaboil,withoutstirringafteryou

seethefirstbubbles.Insertacandythermometer.Boiluntilthecaramelreaches265°F (130°C—hard ball stage), about 3½minutes from the time the bubblescoverthesurface(thetemperaturewillrisequicklytowardtheend,sokeepyoureyeonit).Removefromtheheatandimmediatelystir inthebakingsoda.Thecaramelwillfoamandturnopaque.Carefullypouritoverthepopcornandstirwith a heatproof spatula or wooden spoon to lightly coat. Turn out into thepreparedbakingdishes.Bakefor45minutes,stirringandrotatingthepansevery15minutes.Let cool in thepansonwire racks, thengentlybreak thepopcornintopieces.Storeinanairtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforupto1week.

VARIATIONS

*ForMom’shoney-orangecaramelcorn:Omit thesesameseedsandcoconut.Use ½ cup (120 ml) honey instead of the agave nectar. Add 1½ teaspoonsmincedorangezestwiththebakingsoda.

* For sorghum-chocolate caramel corn: Use ½ cup (120 ml) sorghum syrupinsteadoftheagavenectar.Use¼cup(30g)cacaonibsinsteadofthesesameseedsandcoconut.Add2teaspoonsvanillaextractwiththebakingsoda(dothiscarefully,asitwillsputter!).

*Foragave-chilecaramelcorn:Omitthesesameseedsandcoconut.Use¾cup(150 g) white granulated sugar instead of the brown sugar. Add ½ teaspoongroundcayenneor1teaspoonchipotlechileflakeswiththebakingsoda.Ifyoulike, add 1 tablespoon tequila to the caramel (do this carefully, as it willsputter!).

* Formaple-bacon caramel corn (not vegetarian):Omit the sesame seeds andcoconut.Cook8ounces(225g)baconuntilcrisp,drain,andcrumbleitintothepopcorn.Use½cup(120ml)maplesyrupinsteadoftheagavenectar(acaramelmade with maple syrup will take longer to come to temperature, about 7minutes).Ifyouhaveit,usepartorallmaplesugarforthebrownsugar.Ifyoulike,usebacondrippingsinsteadofoiltocookthepopcorn.

GRANDMAFREDLEY’SKETTLECORN(MINUSTHEBACON)

Makesabout2quarts(100g)|vegan,glutenfree

I’ve always loved salty, just slightly sweet, crisp county-fair-style kettle corn,evenmorethanitsdarker,crunchiercousin,butterycaramelcorn.It’sdefinitelyin the treat category rather than the everyday-snack category of popcornpreparations,butthewayImakeit,it’sfairlylightandcleantasting.

IburnedmanyabatchofpoorlyexecutedkettlecornbeforeIthoughttoaskmypopcorn-fanaticmotherhow tomake it.Turnsout shehada recipepasseddownfrommygrandma thatwassignificantlydifferent fromall theothers I’dseen:First,sheusedcopiousamountsofbacondrippings,whichalsotookcareof the salt content (and you’re free to do so too, if you wish—use twotablespoonsofdrippingsandomit theadditionalsalt); I replace thiswithplainoldvegetableoil.Andsecond,sheaddedwaterwiththepopcorn.Insanity,yousay—but itworks.Thewaterensures that thepopcornhas time toheatupandpop before the sugar burns, and that the resulting caramel coats the popcornlightlyandevenly.

•⅓cup(55g)rawpoppingcorn•¼cup(50g)sugar•2tablespoonsvegetableoil•½teaspoonsalt,groundtoapowderinamortar

Havetwolargebowlsready.Inacup,combinethepopcornand¼cup(60ml)waterandhaveitclosetothestovetop.Measurethesugarandhaveitclosebyaswell.

Inaheavy4-quart(3.8-L)saucepanorpotwithalid,heattheoiland1kernelofthepopcornoverhighheatwiththelidon.Whenthekernelpops,liftthelidand

sprinkleinthesugar.Carefullyaddthepopcornandwaterandimmediatelyputthelidbackon,butleaveitslightlyajar.Holdingthelidwithapotholder,shakethepanbackandforthvigorouslyovertheheat.It’llsteamandhisslikeallheckforabout90seconds,thenwhenthewaterhasevaporated,thekernelswillstarttopop.Keepshakingover theheat forabout40seconds longer,andwhen thepoppingseemstohavereacheditspeak—thesecondyouhearitstarttoslowandno later—remove it from theheat.Keep shakinguntil thepoppinghasmostlystopped,thenimmediatelydumpthekettlecornintooneofthelargebowls.Letcoolforafewminutes.

Nowyouneedtoremoveanyunpoppedkernels(thereshouldn’tbetoomany):Agitate the kettle corn with a spoon, breaking apart the pieces that are stucktogether and letting the heavy kernels fall to the bottom of the bowl. Lift thepopped corn out of the bowl and transfer it to the second bowl; discard theunpoppedkernels.Tossthekettlecornwiththesaltandserve.

QUICKRYECRACKERSMakes32crackers|vegan

A fewyears ago,breadguruPeterReinhart published a little articleonwholewheatcrackersintheL.A.Timesthat—nottoputtoofineapointonit—changedmylife.Icanmakecrackers!AnddoanythingIwanttothem!I’vebeenmakingthesewholeryecrackerseversince,andasIwaswritingthis,IwentbacktomyprintoutofReinhart’srecipesandfoundthat,nosurprise,I’dstrayedprettyfarfrom his gospel. Oh, well. Just more evidence that unleavened breads likecrackers are forgiving and adaptable.Feel free touseotherwhole-grain floursbesidesrye(as longasyouchooseones thathaveat leasta littleglutenso thedoughcanbe rolledout easily—like spelt,wheat, or triticale), andmixup theseasoningsatwill.Andifyouwantaverythincracker,morelikeawholegrainchip, try running thedough throughapastamachine toget it as thinasyou’dlike,thentransferthesheettothepans,cutthemintopieces,brush,top,andbake—justkeepacloseeyeonthemsothethinchipsdon’tburn.

•2½cups(230g)whole(dark)ryeflour,plusmorefordusting•1teaspoonsalt,plusmoreforsprinkling•1teaspooncarawayseeds,plusmoreforsprinkling•3tablespoonsoliveorvegetableoil•1tablespoonagavenectar• 1 teaspoon cornstarch or agave nectar, mixed with 2 tablespoons hotwater

•Poppyseedsand/orsesameseeds,forsprinkling

Preheattheovento300°F(150°C).Setracksinthemiddleandlowerthirdsoftheoven.Linetwobakingsheetswithparchmentpaper.

Inamediumbowl,combinetheflour,salt,andcarawayseeds.Makeawell inthecenterandpourin¾cup(180ml)water,theoil,andagavenectar.Stirwith

arubberspatulatomakeasoftdough;itwillbealittlesticky,andyoucanaddalittlemoreflourifyouneedto.Dividethedoughinhalfandputone-halfonawork surface dusted with flour. Using a floured rolling pin, roll a roughrectanglea little less than⅛ inch (3mm) thick, frequently lifting the sheetofdoughwithabenchknifeormetalspatulatomakesureitisn’tsticking.Transferthesheetofdoughtooneofthepreparedbakingsheets(bylooselyrollingitupontoandthenoffof therollingpin).Repeatwith theremainingdoughandtheremainingbakingsheet.

Brush the sheets of dough with the cornstarch mixture. Sprinkle with salt,carawayseeds,andpoppyseedsand/orsesameseeds.Gentlyrollovertheseedsto press them into the dough.Use a pizza cutter or knife to cut each sheet ofdoughinto16rectangles, thenscoot therectanglesapartslightlyonthebakingsheets.

Bake for 15minutes, then rotate the baking sheets top to bottom and front toback and bake for another 15 to 20 minutes or until the crackers are severalshadesdarker andno longer limpwhenyou liftone.Transfer towire racks tocoolcompletely(they’llcrispupabitastheycool).Thecrackerscanbestoredinanairtightcontainerat roomtemperature forat least1week; if theysoften,putthemonabakingsheetandheattheminahotovenforafewminutes.

PLAIDCRACKERSMakes4largeflatbreads|vegan

If you have a littlemore time, try these yeast-dough flatbreads instead of thequickercrackers.Whilethequickunleavenedones(seethispage)arecrunchier,theseare shattery-crisp:Youbake them inwhole sheets, thenbreak the sheetsinto irregular shards for serving.Anherb and yogurt dip (this page), hummus(thispage),orawedgeofgoodcheeseareallfineaccompaniments,asisabottleofcoldwhitewine.Feelfree touse,say,allwholewheatflour,orwholespeltflour—anythingwithatleastsomeglutenwillworkwellhere.

•1teaspoonagavenectarorhoney•2teaspoonsinstantyeast•¼cup(60ml)oliveoil,plusmoreforthebowl•1teaspooncarawayseeds,plusmoreforsprinkling•2cups(185g)whole(dark)ryeflour•1cup(115g)wholewheatflour,ormoreifneeded•1teaspoonsalt,plusmoreforsprinkling• 1 teaspoon cornstarch or agave nectar, mixed with 2 tablespoons hotwater

•Poppyseeds,forsprinkling•Sesameseeds,forsprinkling

Put 1 cup (240ml) warmwater in a large bowl and stir in the agave nectar,yeast,oil,andthecarawayseeds.Stirintheflours(youmayneedalittlemoreoralittleless)andthesaltandworkthedoughintoasmoothball,kneadingitafewtimesona lightlyflouredworksurface.Cleanoutandoil thebowl,andreturnthedoughtothebowl,turningittocoatthetopwithoil.Coverwithplasticwrapandletriseinawarmspotforabout1hour.

Preheattheovento400°F(205°C).Setarackatthelowestlevel.Lineabakingsheetwithparchmentpaper.

Dividethedoughinto4portions.Keepingtheotherscovered,usearollingpintorolloutoneportionas thinlyaspossible, flouring theworksurfaceandrollingpinlightlyasnecessary(theoilinthedoughmakesitfairlyeasytoworkwith),intoaroughrectangle(misshapenisfine,asareminortearsinthedough—thisisrusticbaking).Transfer thedoughto thepreparedbakingsheet,brushwith thecornstarch mixture, and sprinkle with salt, caraway seeds, poppyseeds, andsesameseedsinaplaidpattern.Gentlyrolloverthesaltandseedstopressthemintothedough.Slidetheparchmentpaperwiththeflatbreadoffthebakingsheetonto thebottom rackof theoven.Bakeuntilnicelybrownedandcrisp,6 to8minutes (watch it closely!), then slip the baking sheet under the paper andremovetheflatbreadandpapertoawireracktocool.Repeatwiththeremainingdough portions (you can pull the paper from underneath the first flatbread toreuse it). Break into shards and serve. The shards can be stored in an airtightcontaineratroomtemperatureforatleast1week.

SUPER-GRAINBREADMakes1loaf|vegetarian

Itmay seem like a lot of steps, but this is a very easy bread for even a busyperson to pull off.You could start thewhole grain soak and the sponge on aSaturdayevening,partyallnight,thenmixeverythingtogetherinthemorningtohavebreadreadyforlunchafewhourslater,andforsandwichesthroughouttheweek.Ifyouhave toretard theprocessatanypoint,stick thecoveredbowlorbowlsintherefrigerator,thenpullthemoutwhenyou’rereadytocontinue.I’vedone this for several days as schedules change and events conflict, with noappreciabledeclineinquality.Theloafisheavilyseeded,studdedwithnutritiousand texturalwholegrains,andperfect forheartysandwichesorasabaseforaspreadoffreshcheeseandjam.

MixingupthespongeandcoveringitwiththedryingredientstobestirredinthenextmorningisamethodIfirst learnedfromRoseLevyBerenbaum’sTheBreadBible;despitethemulti-stepprocess,youreallyonlyhavetoflourupthekitchenonce—brilliant.

FORTHESOAK

• 1¼ to 1½ cups (200 g)mixed rawwhole grains, such as rolled oats orbarley, cornmeal, cracked wheat, bulgur, millet, amaranth, or well-rinsedquinoa

•Scant1cupboilingwater

FORTHESPONGE

•1cup(140g)wholewheatorwholeryeflour•1tablespoonvitalwheatgluten(seeNotethispage)•¼teaspooninstantyeast

FORTHEDRYINGREDIENTS

•1¾cups(200g)whitewholewheatflour

•2tablespoonsvitalwheatgluten•1teaspooninstantyeast• 2 tablespoons coarsely ground flax seeds, or whole sesame, poppy, orsunflowerseeds,oramixture

•1tablespoonkoshersalt

TOFINISH

•Oliveorvegetableoilforthebowl

MAKETHESOAK

In a medium bowl, combine the grains and boiling water. Cover with plasticwrap.

MAKETHESPONGE

Inalargebowl(thebowlofyourstandmixerifyouhaveone),whisktogetherthewholewheat flour, vitalwheat gluten, yeast, and 1 cup (240ml) ofwarmwater.

ADDTHEDRYINGREDIENTS

Ontopof thespongeyou justmade,spread thewhitewholewheat flour,vitalwheatgluten,yeast,flaxseeds,andsalt;donotstirthedryingredientsintothespongeyet.Cover thebowlwithplasticwrapandset itandthesoakingwholegrainsasidefor6hoursorovernightatroomtemperature.

MIXTHEDOUGH

Uncoverthebowls.Ifusingastandmixer,putthemixerbowlinthemixerandattachthedoughhook.(Ifmixingbyhand,fityourhandwitharubberspatulaorwooden spoon.)Mixonmedium-low speed to stir thedry ingredients into thewetsponge.Dumpinthesoakedgrains(they’llhaveabsorbedalltheliquid)andcontinuetomixuntilasticky,stiff,butstretchydoughisformed,6to8minutes.(Ifworkingbyhand,mixaswellasyoucan in thebowl, then turnoutontoalightlyflouredworksurfaceandkneadtheheckoutofitforabout10minutes.Itwillbea little sticky,butuseonlyenough flour tomake itworkable.)Let thedoughrestonthecounterwhileyourinseoutandlightlyoilthebowl.Shapethedough into a tight ball andput it in thebowl; coverwithplasticwrap and setasideinawarmspottoriseuntilalmostdoubledinvolume,about1½hours.

SHAPEANDBAKETHELOAF

Remove from the bowl and gently press into a 9-by-6-inch (23-by-15-cm)rectangle.Rollupintoatight,9-inch-long(23-cm-long)loaf,pinchtheseamtosecure the loaf shape, and fit it seam side down into a large loaf pan; cut alengthwise slash ½ inch (12 mm) deep in the top. (Alternatively, to make afreestandingloaf, fold the twocornerson thefarsideof therectangledowntomeetatthecenter,thenfoldthepointthatresultsatthetopdowntothecenterandrolltowardyoutoshapeintoaloafwithpointedends—atorpedo.Placeonabaking sheet dusted with flour and cut 3 diagonal slashes in the top.) Coverlooselywithplasticwrapandletriseuntilthetopoftheloafis1to2inches(2.5to5cm)abovethelipofthepan(orthefreestandingloafhasrisendramatically),about1hour.

Meanwhile,preheattheovento400°F(205°C).Baketheloafinthecenteroftheoven for 10 minutes, then lower the oven temperature to 375°F (190°C) andbakefor30to35minutes,untilnicelybrowned.Transfertoawirerackandletcool completely before slicing.The breadwill keep at room temperature, in aplasticbagorwrappedinplastic,forupto5days.

HONEYWHOLEWHEATSANDWICHBREADMakes1loaf|vegetarian

Onebowl, twoshort rises,and this loaf is ready tobake intoaperfectlyslice-ablesandwichbread.

•2tablespoonshoney•1scanttablespooninstantyeast•1scantcup(220ml)milkorbuttermilk•1cup(115g)wholewheatflour•2¾cups(385g)whitewholewheatflour•2tablespoonsvitalwheatgluten(seeNote)•2½teaspoonssalt•Oliveorvegetableoilforthebowl•1teaspoonunsaltedbutter(optional)

Inalargebowl(thebowlofyourstandmixerifyouhaveone),combine1scantcupwarmwater(220ml)andthehoney,thensprinkletheyeastoverthetopandstir.Addthemilk,flours,vitalwheatgluten,andsalt.Ifusingastandmixer,putthebowlinthemixerandfititwiththedoughhook.(Ifmixingbyhand,fityourhandwitharubberspatulaorwoodenspoon.)Mixonmedium-lowspeeduntilasmooth,stretchydoughisformed,6to8minutes.(Ifworkingbyhand,mixaswellasyoucaninthebowl,thenturnoutontoalightlyflouredworksurfaceandknead theheckoutof it forabout10minutes. Itwillbea littlesticky,butuseonlyenoughflourtomakeitworkable.)Letthedoughrestonthecounterwhileyourinseoutandlightlyoilthebowl.Shapethedoughintoatightballandputitin thebowl; coverwithplasticwrapandset aside inawarmspot to riseuntildoubledinvolume,about1hour.

Remove from the bowl (dump the dough out so the smooth top is down) and

gentlypressintoa9-by-6-inch(23-by-15-cm)rectangle.Rollupintoatight,9-inch-long (23-cm-long) loaf, pinch the seam to secure it to the loaf, and fit itseamsidedownintoalargeloafpan;makesurethatthetopsurfaceistightandsmooth.Coverlooselywithplasticwrapandletriseuntilthetopoftheloafis1to2inches(2.5to5cm)abovethelipofthepan,about1hour.


Bake the loaf in the center of the oven for 10 minutes, then lower the oventemperature to 375°F (190°C) and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until deeplybrowned.Tip the loaf out of the pan and tap the bottom,which should soundhollow.Transfertoawirerack(ifyou’dlikeasoftercrust,spreadalittlebutteron top while it’s still hot); let cool completely before slicing. The bread willkeepatroomtemperature,inaplasticbagorwrappedinplastic,forupto4days.

NOTE:Vitalwheatglutenisthehigh-proteinpartofthewheatkernelandisavailableinpowderedforminthebakingsectionofmostsupermarketsandinthebulkbinsatmanyhealthfoodstores.I’vefounditveryusefulinmyexperimentswithquicker rising100-percentwhole-grainbreads,where itcontributestoastronger,stretchierdoughthatrisesbetterandresultsinapleasantly chewy crumb that doesn’t crumble and disintegratewhen yousliceitanduseitforsandwiches.

SOUTHERNCORNBREADServes8|vegetarian

Myhusbandjustcamehomefromgettinghishaircutand,asithappens,hadtolistentothewomanwiththetrimmersrailaboutthetravestythatoneofthelocalrestaurantshereinAthenssellsas“cornbread”:Lordhavemercy,ithasbitsofcorn in it!Hoo-boy, are people opinionated about cornbread down here. TrueSoutherncornbreadmustnothaveanysugar (whoever itwaswhogaveus thewitticism“Keepyoursugaroutofmycornbreadandyourteaoutofmytea”wasakeenobserverofthisregion),andthecornmealmustundernocircumstancesbeyellow.Unless,thatis,itshouldhavesomesugarandmustalwaysbeyellowcornmeal.Adda little sugar to this ifyou’d like,or try thevariations—it’llbedelicious,evenifIwouldn’triskservingittoanybornSouthernerovertheageofsixty-five.

•¼cup(½stick/55g)unsaltedbutter,melted,plusmoreforthepan•1½cups(160g)rawfinewhiteoryellowcornmeal•1cup(140to170g)whitewholewheatflour,wholespeltflour,orwholewheatpastryflour

•4teaspoonsbakingpowder•1teaspoonsalt•1½cups(360ml)milk•1largeegg

Preheattheovento425°F(220°C).Buttera9-inch(23-cm)squarebakingpan.

Intoalargebowl,siftthecornmeal,flour,bakingpowder,andsalt.Inaseparatebowl,whisktogetherthemilk,egg,andbutter.Pourthewetingredientsintothedryandstirwitharubberspatulauntiljustcombined.Scrapeintothepreparedpanandsmooththetop.Bakeinthecenteroftheovenuntilnicelybrownedandatoothpickinsertedinthecentercomesoutclean,about20minutes.Letcoolfor

afewminutesonawirerack,thencutintosquaresandservewarmoratroomtemperature.

VARIATIONS

*Forbaconcornbread(notvegetarian):Cook4ounces(115g)dicedbaconuntilcrisp;drainonapapertowel.Usetherenderedfattogreasethebakingpan,andsprinklethebaconoverthebatterrightbeforeyouputthecornbreadintheoven.(Alternatively, cook the bacon in a well-seasoned 10-inch / 25-cm cast-ironskillet;removethebacontoapapertoweltodrain,thenpouroffallbutabout1tablespoonoftherenderedfat.Scrapethecornbreadbatterdirectlyintothehotskillet,sprinklewiththebacon,andtransfertotheoventobake.Cutintowedgestoserve.)*Formaple-baconcornbread(notvegetarian):Makebaconcornbreadasabove,butadd3tablespoonsmaplesyruptothewetingredients.

* For chile cornbread:Dice 2 large roasted poblano chiles and pat drywith apaper towel. Mince 2 chipotle chiles in adobo and add them, along with thepoblanos,tothewetingredients.

*Forfresh-corncornbread:Add1cup(170g)fresh(uncookedisfine)orfrozen(thawed)sweetcornkernelstothewetingredients.Anddon’ttellmyhusband’sbarber.

* For buttermilk or yogurt cornbread:Use 1 cup (240ml) buttermilk or plainyogurtinsteadofthemilk.Increasetheeggsto2.Reducethebakingpowderto2teaspoonsandadd½teaspoonbakingsoda.

HOTCOCOAWITHCORNMEALORMASAServes3or4|vegan,glutenfree

Champurrado, a chocolate drink thickened with cornmeal or masa, has beenconsumedinMexicoforcenturies,andforatimeitwasthoughtofasalmostadaily necessity. Friar Ilarione da Bergamo, an Italian missionary traveling inMexico in the 1760s, describes the Mexicans’ odd-sounding diet in hisfascinating journal. He reports that they would generally drink atole, a thickcornmealporridgeoftenflavoredwithchocolate,twiceaday,firstwhilestillinbed, then again in the late afternoon.Should anyonebe forced to “gowithoutchocolate, champurrado, or atole for just onemorning,” hewrites, “he or shewouldberegardedasamostunfortunateperson,wretched,andonthevergeofdesperation.”

Iwouldn’tgothatfar(unlessitwerecoffeewewerediscussing),butneitherwould I wish to go a winter without indulging in a few warm mugs of thispuddlinglikecocoa.

•¼cup(40g)rawfinecornmeal(yellow,white,orblue)ormasaharina•¼cup(20g)unsweetenedcocoapowder•Pinchofsalt•2½cups(600ml)ricemilk,soymilk,oralmondmilk•1cinnamonstick,plusmoreforserving

•3tablespoonsagavenectaror⅓cup(65g)sugar•½teaspoonpurevanillaextract

Intoamediumbowl,siftthecornmeal,cocoapowder,andsalt.Add½cup(120ml)ofthericemilkandwhiskuntilsmooth.Setaside.

Inaheavy2-quart(2-L)saucepan,bringtheremaining2cups(480ml)ricemilkandthecinnamonsticktoasimmer,thenwhiskinthecocoamixtureandagave

nectar.Returntoaveryslowsimmerandcook,stirringorwhiskingfrequently,untilthickenedtotheconsistencyofmeltedicecream,about15minutes.Stirinthevanillaandremoveanddiscard thecinnamonstick.Pour intoa4-cup(960ml)glassmeasuringcupforeasierpouring,thendivideamongmugsandservewith fresh cinnamon sticks for stirring. The cocoawill thicken and take on alightpuddinglikequalityasitcoolsinthemugs.

BARLEYTEAServes2|vegan

IfirstencounteredroastedbarleyteawhenIworkedatapublishingcompanyinManhattan’sKoreatown.It’srefreshingwhetherservedhotorchilled,andithasaslightlysweet,nuttyflavorthatmakesitidealforservingwithmealsorwithalittle sweet afternoon treat. Roasted unhulled barley formaking tea is sold inAsian grocery stores (mugicha in Japanese, boricha in Korean), but you canconcoct a fair approximation of it at home by toasting regular hulled or pearlbarleyandsteepingit.Ifyoulike,toastalargerbatchofbarleyandkeepitinanairtightjarinthecupboardforuptotwomonths.

•½cup(100g)rawhulledbarley•Agavenectar(optional)

Inalargeheavysautépanovermediumheat,toastthebarley,stirringfrequently,untildeepbrownandfragrant,6to10minutes.Transfertoasaucepanandadd3cups (720ml)water.Bring toaboil, then lower theheatandsimmeruntil thewaterisaboutthecoloroflightbeer,15to20minutes.Pourthroughasieveintoa heatproof tea pot or pitcher, sweeten if you like, and serve hot or chill andserveoverice.Discardthebarleyitself,orifyouarefeelingthrifty,returnittothe saucepan, addwater to cover, cook until tender, drain, and refrigerate foranotheruse

CARAWAY-SAGESPELTBREADSTICKSMakesabout64thinbreadsticks|vegan

This super-basicyeasteddough,madeprimarilywith lower-glutenwhole speltflour,isquiteversatile:Cutandrollitintoropesforbreadsticks,ashere,oromitthecarawayandsageanddivideitintoadozensmallsandwichrolls,letriseina

warmspotforacouplehours,thenbake.Oryoucanmakeitintofourballs,letrise, then stretch and roll out thinly tomake individual-sizepizzas; topwith alittlesauceandcheeseandbakeonapreheatedpizzastoneat500°F(260°F).

•1½cups(360ml)warmwater•1teaspoonagavenectar•2teaspoonsinstantyeast•¼cup(60ml)oliveoil,plusmoreforthebowl•3¾cups(430g)wholespeltflour•¾cup(115g)wholewheatflour,ormoreasneeded•1scanttablespoonsalt•2teaspoonscarawayseeds•1teaspoonrubbeddriedsage

In a large bowl (the bowl of your standmixer if you have one), combine thewarmwaterandagavenectar,thensprinkletheyeastoverthetopandstir.Addtheoil,flours,andsalt.Ifusingastandmixer,putthebowlinthemixerandfititwiththedoughhook.(Ifmixingbyhand,fityourhandwitharubberspatulaorwooden spoon.)Mix onmedium-low speed until a smooth, stretchy dough isformed,6to8minutes.(Ifworkingbyhand,mixaswellasyoucaninthebowl,thenturnoutontoalightlyflouredworksurfaceandkneadtheheckoutofitforabout10minutes.Itwillbealittlesticky,butuseonlyenoughflourtomakeitworkable.)Letthedoughrestonthecounterwhileyourinseoutandlightlyoilthebowl.Shape thedough into a tight ball andput it in thebowl; coverwithplasticwrapandsetasideinacoolspottoriseuntildoubledinvolume,about6hours.

Turnthedoughoutontoaflouredworksurfaceanddivideinto4portions.

Kneadone-quarterofthecarawayseedsandsageintoeachportionofdough.Letrestfor15minutes.Divideeachportioninto16piecesandrolleachintoathinrope 12 to 14 inches (30 to 35 cm) long.Arrange on two baking sheets linedwithparchmentpaper and cover looselywithplasticwrap.Let rise in awarmspotfor30minutes.Preheattheovento400°F(205°C).Bakeinthecenterandlowerthirdsoftheovenuntilbrownedandcrisp,18to20minutes,rotatingthepanshalfwaythrough.Transfertowirerackstocool.

7HomemadeCondimentstoHaveonHand

Makingwholegrainsapartofyourlifedoesn’thavetobedifficult.Youdon’thave to reinvent thewheel every timeyouput a pot of grains on the stove tosimmer.Sometimesjustplaingrainswithasimpledressingortopping,adollopor sprinkle of this or that, is all youneed tomake a satisfying, enriching sidedish(or,ifit’soneofthosedays,yourwholemeal).Followingareafewofthoseembellishmentsyoucanmakewhenyoufeellikebeinginthekitchenforabit

andkeepatthereadyintherefrigeratororpantryfordayswhenyoudon’t.

GOMASHIOMakes½cup(70g)|vegan,glutenfree

Gomashio (also spelledgomasio) is a classic topping for simplegrainsdishes,and instantly transforms them from boring hippie food to… delicious hippiefood.Andtherewasatimewhentheworldseeminglywouldn’tletyouwriteavegetariancookbookthatdidn’tmentionthefactthatsteamedbroccoliwasmorepalatablewhentoppedwiththesalty,toastystuff.Youcanbuyitpremade,butit’ssoeasytomakeathome,whereyoucanalsoadjustthesaltandeithergrindit or leave the seeds whole, that there’s really no reason to buy it. Look forreasonablypriced sesameseeds in thebulk sectionofhealth foodstores,or inAsian,Mexican,orIndiangrocerystores.

Themethodbelow,inwhichtheseedsarelightlytoastedandthencookedinsaltwateruntilthemoistureevaporates,leavingtheseedscoatedwithsalt,comesfromMakiko Itoh, the author ofThe JustBentoCookbook and the JustBentoblog. It allows the seeds tobecomeevenly seasonedwithoutbeingground, sothegomashiocanbekeptlonger.

•½cup(70g)white,brown,and/orblacksesameseeds•1to1½teaspoonssalt(usethelesserquantityifaddingseaweed)• 1 teaspoon dulse flakes, toasted, or crushed toasted nori seaweed(optional)

In a small sauté pan over medium heat, toast the sesame seeds, stirringconstantlywith a heatproof spatula, until fragrant and a shade darker, about 2minutes.Add½cup (120ml)water and the salt andcook, stirring constantly,untilthewateriscompletelyevaporatedandtheseedsaredry,matteratherthanshiny,andcoatedwiththesalt.Letcoolinthepan.Ifyou’dlike,putthesesameseeds,inbatches,inamortarorspicegrinderwithafewpiecesoftoasteddulseor wakame seaweed and coarsely grind. Transfer the gomashio to an airtightcontainer; stored in a cool, dark cupboard, it will keep for up to 1 month ifgroundor longer if the seedsare leftwhole (ifyou like,youcangrind just as

muchasyouneedatatime).

SEEDYNUTTOPPINGMakesabout¾cup(90g)|vegan,glutenfree

I’dsprinklethismixtureofnutrient-richnutsandseedsonprettymuchanything.Not just theobviouschoices, likeoatmealoranotherbreakfastyporridge,orabowlofwheat or ryeberries, but alsoplainor lightly sweetenedyogurt, freshfruit, steamed vegetables like broccoli or cauliflower, bitter greens braised instockwithalittlegingerandsoysauce,greenbeans,snowpeas,sweetpotatoes…oranycombinationofvegetablesandgrains.It’llkeepforamonthorsointhecupboard,sogoaheadanddoubletherecipe.Anditgoeswithoutsayingthatwhile this is a combination I find tobe especiallyversatile anduseful (andofcoursetasty),feelfreetousewhatevernutsandseedsyoulike.

•⅓cup(20g)pepitas(hulledpumpkinseeds)

•⅓cup(35g)slicedalmonds•3tablespoonssesameseeds•Pinchofsalt•3tablespoonsflaxseeds

Inasmallheavysautépanovermedium-highheat,toastthepepitas,tossingandstirringconstantly,untiltheyswellandbegintocolor.Transfertoabowl.Returnthe pan to the heat and toast the almonds until fragrant and just beginning tobrown, then scrape them into the bowl. In the hot pan, off the heat, toast thesesameseedsuntiltheyglistenandturngoldenbrown;sprinklewithsaltandaddthemtothebowl.Inaspicegrinder,pulsetheflaxseedsuntilmostofthemarecracked,andaddthemtothebowl.Letcool,thentransfertoajarwithalidandstoreinacooldarkspotforupto1month.

BASICVINAIGRETTEFORGRAINSMakes1scantcup(220ml)|vegan,glutenfree

Vinaigrettesandsaladdressingsusedwithgrainsneedtohaveabitmoreacid—vinegar, citrus—than most of those used with greens, or they’ll taste bland.Here’s a simple one you can make in a large-ish batch and keep in therefrigeratortodrizzleovergrainsandchoppedvegetablesforquick,substantialsalads. Often, when I make a salad I’ll make double or triple the amount ofvinaigrette—thenpoursomeofitintoajartosaveforanotheruse,andtossthegreens,grains,andvegetablesinthebowlwiththeremainder.

•1clovegarlic,lightlycrushedbutleftwhole• ½ cup (120 ml) white-or red-wine vinegar, or Champagne vinegar orsherryvinegar

•2tablespoonsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice(optional)•1teaspoonsalt•½teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper•2teaspoonsgrainymustard

•⅓cup(80ml)oliveoil

Rub the inside bottom of amedium bowlwith the garlic and drop it in, thenwhisktogetherthevinegar,lemonjuice,ifusing,salt,pepper,andmustarduntilthe salt is dissolved.Gradually add theoil,whisking to emulsify.Remove thegarlic(saveitforanotheruse, ifyou’dlike), thenpourintoacleanjar(ahalf-pint / 240mlglass canning jarworkswell), cover, and refrigerate for up to 3weeks. Put the jar in a saucepan of hotwater for a fewminutes towarm andliquefytheoil,thenshakewellbeforeusingthevinaigrette.

BUTTERMILK-YOGURTDRESSINGWITHCHIVES

Makes1½cups(360ml)|vegetarian,glutenfree

This isacreamybutsuper-healthfuldressing,excellent folded intocoldgrainsfor aquick salad, or as a thin sandwich spread inplaceofmayonnaise.Try itdrizzledintoawholewheatpitastuffedwithchilledbulgur,slicedtomatoesandcucumbers,cookedchickpeas,gratedcarrot,sprouts,andtoastedpepitas.

•1cup(240ml)buttermilk•½cup(120ml)plainyogurt•¼cupmincedfreshchives•1tablespoongratedonion•½teaspoonsalt•¼teaspoonfreshlygroundblackpepper

Ina largebowl,whiskall the ingredients togetheruntilsmooth.Transfer toanairtightcontainerandstoreintherefrigeratorforupto1week.

VARIATIONS

*Tomakealargebatch(3cups/720ml)ofathickerdipforrawvegetablesorbreadsticks(onthispage),oraspreadforsandwiches:Omitthebuttermilkandplainyogurtanduse¾cup(180ml)plainGreekyogurtpureedinaminifoodprocessorwith1¾cups(1pound/455g)cottagecheese.Increasethesaltto¾teaspoon and the pepper to ½ teaspoon or to taste. Increase the onion to 2tablespoonsandsqueezeoutexcessliquidbeforeaddingit.

* For a very herby dressing, instead of the chives use about 2 tablespoonsmincedfreshbasil,2tablespoonsmincedfreshparsley,and1teaspoonmincedfreshmarjoramororegano.

CARAMELIZEDONIONSWITHTHYMEANDBALSAMICVINEGAR

Makesabout3cups(720ml)|vegan,glutenfree

Spoon these soft, sweetonionsontocookedwholewheatcouscous,quinoa,ormillet,orfoldthemintobrownriceorfarro.

•5pounds(2.3kg)sweetonions,sliced•2tablespoonsoliveoil•1teaspoonsalt•4sprigsfreshthyme,stemmed•1tablespoonbalsamicvinegar

Puttheonions,oil,salt,thyme,andvinegarinalargeheavypotorDutchovenand cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until golden and verysoft,about1½hours—don’t let thembrowntooquickly; if theystart tobrownbeforetheysoftenintoavelvetymass,addasplashofwaterandcoverthepotforafewminutes.Letcool,thenputinfreezerbagsandfreezeforuptoseveralmonths,orkeepintherefrigeratorforupto1week.

PIMIENTOCHEESEMakesabout4cups(800g)|vegetarian,glutenfree*

Last year during college football (known outside the South as “fall” or“autumn”),Iwasseizedbyadesiretomakepimientocheeseforthefirsttime.Itwasthebeginningofwhatpromisestobealongandbeautifulrelationshipwiththeold-school,newlyhipbrightorangespread.Theversionbelow,mylatestbutprobablynotmy last, isheavyon the roastedpeppers (I likeeitherhomemadeoven-roasted or jarred “fire-roasted” red peppers, which have a bit of smokychar to them,rather than theblandpremincedpimientos),andnotsoheavyonthemayo(IusecreamcheeseorevensofterNeufchâtel to fillout thespread).Thisisexcellentonryecrackers(thispage)andofcourseitcouldbedollopedliberallyongrits,polenta,orevensteel-cutoatmeal. (It’salsowonderful inanomelet orwith rawvegetables.)Don’t use preshredded cheese,which, besidesbeingcoatedinadditivesyoudon’tneed,won’tgetmushyenoughtomeltwiththeotheringredients.

•1pound(455g)good-qualityextra-sharpcheddarcheese,shredded•8ounces(225g)creamcheese,atroomtemperature•¼cup(60ml)good-qualitymayonnaise•1tablespoonfreshlysqueezedlimejuice•½to1teaspoonhotpaprika,totaste• 1 cup (135 g) roasted and peeled red bell peppers (about 2 large), orjarredroastedredpeppersinbrine,verywelldrained

Inamediumbowl,witharubberspatula,beattogetherthecheeses,mayonnaise,lime juice, and paprika until thoroughly combined.Mince the roasted peppersandstirthemintothecheese.Coverandrefrigerateforatleast1hourorupto1week.

SUN-DRIEDTOMATOMUHAMMARAMakesabout2½cups(600ml)|vegan

In this dip (or spread or condiment), based on the Syrian and Lebanesemuhammara, softened sun-dried tomatoes take the place of hot or sweet driedchiles,lendingitatangyratherthanspicyedge.Serveafewspoonfulswithanywholegrain,perhapsthinnedwithalittlewaterorbroth,orspreadongrilledorbroiledwholegrainbreadanddrizzlewith a littleoliveoil as abetween-mealsnackorappetizer.

•1wholeheadgarlic•4tablespoons(60ml)oliveoil•Saltandfreshlygroundblackpepper•1packedcup(110g)sun-driedtomatoes(drainedifpackedinoil)•1(½-inch-thick/12-mm-thick)sliceofcountrybread•½teaspoongroundcayenne•½cup(60g)choppedwalnuts,toasted•3tablespoonspomegranatemolasses(seeNote)

Preheat theoven to375°F (190°C).Cut theheadofgarlichorizontally inhalfandputitonapieceofaluminumfoil.Drizzle1tablespoonoftheoilintotheslitgarlicandsprinklewithsaltandblackpepper;gatherthefoilintoapackageandsqueezetoseal.Putitontherackintheovenandroastuntiltheclovesareverysoftandbeginningtocaramelize,about40minutes.

Meanwhile,putthesun-driedtomatoesandbreadinablenderandpourboilingwateroverthemtojustcover.Letsoakuntilthetomatoesareverysoft,about30minutes.Squeeze thegarliccloves fromtheskins into theblenderandadd theremaining 3 tablespoons of oil,¾ teaspoon of salt, the cayenne,walnuts, andpomegranatemolasses. Blend until very smooth, adding up to⅓ cup (80ml)

waterifnecessarytomakeapureetheconsistencyofthickhummus.Transfertoasealablecontainer;thesaucewillkeepintherefrigeratorforupto1week.

NOTE: Tart, dark-red pomegranate molasses is a key ingredient inmuhammara; it can be found in Middle Eastern grocery stores (theLebanesebrandsarethebestinmyexperience—butmakesureyoucanseethatthepomegranatemolassesispourableandnotdriedoutandthick),inmost Indian grocery stores, and in the international foods aisle of somegood supermarkets. Ifyoucan’t find it, youcanaddbalsamicvinegar totaste, or, better, balsamic vinegar that has beenboiled until reduced to asyrupwithalittleagavenectar(seethispage).

NICOLE’SSPICYRED-TOMATOCHUTNEYMakesabout2pints(960ml)|vegan,glutenfree

The recipe for thisveryBritishchutneywasgiven tomebymy friendNicoleMitchellandisadaptedfromonebythegranddameofEnglishcookery,DeliaSmith.When shegavemea jar lastyear, I came to relyon it almostdaily.Alittle spoonful of it is all you need tomake a quickly steamed bowl ofwholewheat couscous, bulgur, or cracked wheat something special, and it’s alsowelcome anywhere there’s cheese—I love it on a rough hunk of breadwith athickshardofgoodcheddaroracrumblingslabofStiltonorsomethingsimilar.Tryitinbuckwheatcrêpes(thispage)too.

•1pound(455g)ripetomatoes,coarselychopped•1largeGrannySmithapple,coredandcoarselychopped•1mediumonion,coarselychopped•1cup(170g)goldenraisins•2clovesgarlic,minced•1teaspoonsalt•½teaspoongroundcayenne•½teaspoongroundginger•1cup(220g)packedbrownsugar•1¼cups(300ml)maltvinegarorcidervinegar•Cheeseclothormuslinbagofpicklingspices:½teaspoonmustardseeds,½ teaspoon allspice berries, ½ teaspoon whole black peppercorns, 2wholecloves,½cinnamonstick(optional)

Inafoodprocessor, inbatches ifnecessary,process the tomatoesuntilpureed,andthentheapple,onion,andraisinsuntilfinelyminced;putthemallinaheavy4-quart (3.8-L) nonreactive (stainless-steel or enameled) saucepan. Add thegarlic,salt,cayenne,ginger,brownsugar,andvinegar.Ifyou’reusingthespice

bag, attach it with a binder clip to the side of the pan so that the spices aresubmerged. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and simmer, stirringoccasionally,untilthechutneyisthick,jammy,anddeepbrownincolor,about2½hours—stirmorefrequentlytowardtheendtokeepitfromsticking.Discardthe spice bag. Ladle into 2 clean, hot pint-size glass jars, let cool to roomtemperature, then cover and refrigerate. The chutney will keep for at least 1monthintherefrigerator.

MEASURINGFLOUR

Themostaccuratewaytomeasureflourforbakedgoodsistouseascale:Youjustputthebowlonthescale,zeroitout,andaddflouruntilyouhavetherightamount—nomeasuringcupsneeded.

If you don’t have a kitchen scale, use the spoon-and-level method formeasuringtheflourvolumequantitiesinthebakingrecipes:Stirtheflourabitinthebagorothercontainer to loosenandaerate it andbreakupany lumps.Setyourdrymeasuringcuponapieceofwaxedpaperandspoonintheflouruntilitoverflows.Useaknifeor the straight sideofa spoonhandle to sweep the toplevelwiththerimofthecup.Dumptheexcessfromthewaxedpaperbackintotheflourbagorcontainer.

Note, too, that you may need to use more flour (or dampen your dough-kneading hands to add more moisture) depending on the humidity in yourkitchenfromdaytoday.Thisisespeciallytrueforbreadrecipes.I’vefoundthatflourweightsandmeasurescanvaryquiteabitdependingontheweather,andasaccurateandconsistentasI’vetriedtobehereI’msureyou’llfindyouneedtoaddalittlemoreoralittleless.Luckilywe’renotattemptinganyfancyspongecakes—allthebakinginthisbookis…well,let’scallitrustic.

GRAINCOOKINGCHEATSHEETSaltisoptionalandamatteroftaste;asageneralrule,addittowardtheendofcooking.Formoredetailsaboutbasicgrain-cooking techniques,pleasesee theindividual grain descriptions in the Grain section found here through here.Grains marked with * can be cooked in larger quantities by scaling up theproportionswithnolossofquality;†indicatesthatthegrainsaregoodtofreeze.

SOURCES

ONLINERETAILERS

AnsonMillsansonmills.comphone:803-467-41221922-CGervaisStreetColumbia,SC29201

ThesepeopleatthisSouthCarolinaorganicgrowerandmillingcompanyknowtheir grits, especially, but also their rice andwhole grain flours (and—shh!—artisan-qualitywhite flours, too: Icovet theni-hachi sobakohand the farinadipizzaiolo).Truly,theyhavesomeofthemostinterestingcornmealandhominyproductsavailableanywhere:pencilcobbgrits(readabout’emonthewebsite),blue and white and yellow corn grits in various grinds, even yellow wholehominycornandculinarylimeformakingyourownhominy.Raregrahamflour,farro piccolo, roasted farro (or spelt), stone-cut oats, buckwheat flours. Youcould spend all day reading the artful descriptions of these special products,whichareavailabletoorderinsmallorverylargequantities.

ArrowheadMillsarrowheadmills.elsstore.comphone:800-434-4246TheHainCelestialGroup,Inc.4600SleepytimeDriveBoulder,CO80301

Arrowhead Mills stocks organic whole grains (buckwheat groats, millet,amaranth, oat groats, long-grain brown rice, brown basmati rice, quinoa),organic wholegrain flours, and gluten-free buckwheat flour and yellowcornmeal. Many are available in grocery stores, and they can be ordered insensiblequantitiesonline.

Bob’sRedMillbobsredmill.com

http://ansonmills.com

http://arrowheadmills.elsstore.com

http://bobsredmill.com

phone:800-349-21735000SEInternationalWayMilwaukie,Oregon97222

Miller of conventional, organic, and certified gluten-free grains and flours,Bob’sRedMillalsopackagesnuts,seeds,beans,bakingmixes,andsoon.Manyof these products are available in grocery stores, but there’s a much widerselectiononlineand,presumably, in thebrick-and-mortar store inOregon. I’mfairlycertainthateverygrainproductusedinthisbookisavailablefromBob’sRedMillbymailorInternetorder.

HaldemanMillshaldemanmills.comphone:717-665-23391720LocustGroveRoadManheim,PA17545

Brinser’sBestandStauffer’sHomeroastedcornmeal(madebyHaldemanMills)is not availableonline, but you can find a store that sells itwith a bulk-store-findertool.

Kalustyan’skalustyans.comphone:800-352-3451123LexingtonAvenueNewYork,NY10016

Kalustyan’sisareal-worldandonlinesellerofspecialtyricesandothergrains,spices,nuts,flours,extracts,driedfruits,lentils,driedbeans,andcondiments.Ifyou’reeverinManhattan,stopbythestoreandstockup.

KingArthurFlourkingarthurflour.comphone:800-827-6836135U.S.Route5SouthNorwich,VT05055

KingArthurFlour’scatalogandonlineorderingsystemoffernotjustthewhole

http://haldemanmills.com

http://kalustyans.com

http://kingarthurflour.com

wheat and white whole wheat flours commonly available in grocery storesacross the country, but also sparkling white sugar, vital wheat gluten, wholecornmeal,steel-cutandrolledoats,oatflour,wholespeltflour,high-fiberbarleyflour,brownriceflour,andsorghumflour.

NutsOnlinenutsonline.comphone:800-558-6887125MoenStreetCranford,NJ07016

Thisisanonlineretailerofnutsandnutflours,wholegrains,flours,driedfruits,andgluten-freeproducts.Oneadvantageoforderinggrains from these folks isthat they’reavailable in smallerquantities; it’s easier to tryoutunusualgrainswhenyoudon’thavetocommittothembythecase.

RedMuleGritsTimandAliceMillsredmulegrits.usMillsFarm150HarveMathisRoadAthens,GA30601

RedMuleGrits isa local-to-memicroproducerofexcellentorganiccorngrits,cornmeal,PolentadeGeorgia(coarse-grindcornmeal),andEnglishporridge(amixtureofdifferentgrains).Theirmillismulepowered.

INDIANGROCERYSTORELOCATORS

ThereareacoupleofcurrentlyworkingIndiangrocerystorelocatorsonline.TheURLshaveacertainfly-by-nightqualityaboutthem,butIwantedyoutoatleastknow that there is such a thing as an Indian grocery store locator and thattheoreticallyyoucanuseonetofindpurveyorsofinexpensivespices,freshcurryleaves,lentils,andriceslocaltoyou.

thokalath.com/grocery/diggsamachar.com/grocery/grocery.htm

FURTHERREADING

http://nutsonline.com

http://thokalath.com/grocery/

http://diggsamachar.com/grocery/grocery.htm

WholeGrainsCouncilwholegrainscouncil.orgA respected resource for all information whole grain. Up-to-date nutritioninformation,wholegrainsinthenews,andlinkstohealthandnutritionstudies.

USDANationalNutrientDatabaseforStandardReferencendb.nal.usda.govFinddetailednutritioninformationforawiderangeoffoods,fromplainfoodslike“rice,brown,medium-grain,cooked”toready-to-eatbrand-namecereals.

Gramene:AResourceforComparativeGrassGenomicsgramene.orgForthosethreeorfourofyouwhoareinterestedinmorecerealgraintaxonomy,thisisausefuldatabase.

http://wholegrainscouncil.org

http://gramene.org

INDEXOFSEARCHTERMS

AAlegrías,Leda’sAlmondmilk

quinoaporridgewithvanillaandAlmond(s):and“graham-flour”crust,limecustardpiewithpan-friedtofuwithquinoa,

redchiles,andseedynuttoppingAmaranth

amaranth-crustedbakedcatfishamaranth“polenta”basiccookedchickenandtomatillosoupwithanddriedcherrychocolatesMexicanpuffedamaranthsweetspoppedpoppedamaranthandtoastedwheatberryfoolsmokyamaranthcorn

chowderAmaro,brownricerisottowithshrimp,fennel,andAnise-scentedyogurtcheese,

warmwheatberryandbeetsaladwithApple(s):appleoatmuffinsandbeetsalad,withsavorygranolacardamomapplecrispryeberrieswithbraisedredcabbage,driedcurrants,andApricots,sweet-

spicedroastchickenwithbarleyandArtichokeheart,greenlentil,andWehaniricesaladArugula,bulgursaladwithbrislingsardines,Meyerlemon,andAsparagusandkabochasquashfarrottowithlemonandbasilAvocado:

puree,milletmakirollswithquinoawithcorn,tomatoes,sweetonion,balsamicreduction,andsprouted

wheatberrysaladwithpickledredonionandBBacon:

farrowithshavedBrusselssprouts,roastedchestnuts,andwarmspeltand

farrowithshavedBrusselssprouts,roastedchestnuts,andwarmspeltandnew-potatosaladwithdillandBalsamicvinegar:

broiledfigswithcouscous,feta,mint,andbalsamicsyrupcaramelizedonionswiththymeandfriedbrownricewithgreenbeansandquinoawithcorn,tomatoes,avocado,sweetonion,andbalsamicreductionBarley

barelysteamedbroccoliandbarleysaladbarleyteabasiccookedandcatfishlarbcoldcucumber-yogurtsoupwithdillandgritsandporcini“risotto”sweet-spicedroastchickenwithapricotsandBasil:eggplant,basil,ricotta,andtomatosauceforpastaglaze,cornmealoliveoil

cakewithsquidandfarrosaladwithmango,lime,andstuffedsweetpepperswithmillet,MontereyJack,andBasmatiriceSeealsoRiceBatidodetrigo

Batra,NeelamBeans:

bulgurandblackbeanburgerswithcilantromayonnaiseandcarrotslawbulgurandredbeanstewwithsmokedpaprikahuevosrancheroswithgriddledcornmealSeealsoGreenbeans

Beef:Kamut,feta,andgrilledgrapesaladwithflanksteakmeatandcelerypasta

sauce,PatriciaWells’sMom’squinoameatpiewitholiveoilcrustrusticshredded-beeftamalewithfreshcornandturkeykibbeh

Beet:andapplesaladwithsavorygranolaandwheatberrysalad,warm,with

anise-scentedyogurtcheeseBerley,PeterBesan.SeeChickpeaflourBiscuits,oatyBlack-eyedpeasandwheatberrieswithturnipgreensBlackrice

pudding,withcoconutmilkandcandiedsweetpotatoshrimpandchorizowith

Blackwalnuts,quinoasaladwithparsley,driedcranberries,goatcheese,andBluecheese,spinachandoatgroatssaladwithtoastedwalnutsandBlueberrycornmealmuffins

Bread:honeywholewheatsandwichbreadsuper-grainSeealsoCornbread;InjeraBreadsticks,caraway-sagespeltBroccoli:

barelysteamedbroccoliandbarleysaladBroccolirabe,farrowithroastchicken,crispfriedlemon,andBrownriceSeealsoRiceBrowned-butteroatmealcookies

Brusselssprouts,shaved,farrowithbacon,roastedchestnuts,andBuckwheatbasiccookedcrêpes,withbutteredfruitandsweetricottafluffybuckwheatpancakesgroatsSeealsoKasha;Sobanoodle(s)Bulgurbasiccookedandblackbeanburgerswithcilantromayonnaiseandcarrotslawclassic

tabboulehandhummussandwich,open-faced,withlemonvinaigrette,sprouts,and

tomatoandredbeanstewwithsmokedpaprikasalad,spicy,withpeaches,jalapeño,andmintedyogurtsalad,withbrislingsardines,Meyerlemon,andarugulaturkeyandbeefkibbeh

Burgers,bulgurandblackbean,withcilantromayonnaiseandcarrotslawButter,spiced(niterqibe)

Buttermilk:buttermilk-yogurtdressingwithchivesgrits,withpimientocheeseoatcakes

Butternutsquash:Persian-stylelamb,butternutsquash,andbrownbasmatiricepilafroasted,

withquinoaandsausageCCabbage:

brownricestuffedcabbagered,braised,ryeberrieswithapples,driedcurrants,andandsorghumslaw,

creamyCake,cornmealoliveoil,withbasilglazeCaramelcorn,sesame-coconut,with

agavenectarCaraway-sagespeltbreadsticksCardamom:

cardamomapplecrispquinoaandchickpea-floursweetswithsweetcracked-wheatpuddingwith

cashewsandCarrot:andredquinoasaladwithyellowpepper,grapefruit,andcrispeddulseslaw,

bulgurandblackbeanburgerswithcilantromayonnaiseandCashew(s):andsesamebrownbasmatiricesweetcracked-wheatpuddingwithcardamomandCatfish:amaranth-crustedbakedcatfish

andbarleylarbpinheadoat-crusted,roastedcauliflowerandmustardgreens,andlemon

creamCauliflower:curried,sorghumandmilletandwheatberrydalwithyellowsplitpeasandpinheadoat-crusted

catfish,roastedcauliflowerandmustardgreens,andlemoncreamroastedcauliflowerandgarlicmashedmilletCelery:

butter-braised,farrowithtarragonandandmeatpastasauce,PatriciaWells’sCeliacdisease

CerealbarswithyogurtCereal,cold:

barelysweetgranolapuremuesli

Cereal,hotbrownricekayuwithgreensquinoaporridgewithvanillaandalmondmilkteffupmaSeealsoOatmeal

Chaat,puffed-grainandgreen-tomatoCheese,pimientoCherries:

amaranthanddriedcherrychocolatesChestnuts,roasted,farrowithbacon,shavedBrusselssprouts,andChicken:

confit,blackquinoawithmushrooms,quick-pickledonion,androast,farrowithbroccolirabe,crispfriedlemon,androast,sweet-spiced,withbarleyandapricotsshredded,coldsobanoodleswithtahini,lime,cucumber,andstock,quick

andtomatillosoupwithamaranth(very)dirtyriceandwildricesoup,brothy

Chickpeaflour:crêpes,withquinoa,meltedpeppers,andgoatcheeseandquinoasweets

withcardamomChile(s):

cilantro-chile-limesauce,long-braisedporkwithgritsandpoblano,milletandsweetcornsaladwithgrapetomatoes,cilantro,andred,pan-friedtofuwithquinoa,almonds,androasting

Chineseblackrice.SeeBlackrice;RiceChocolate:amaranthanddriedcherrychocolateschocolate-tahinipuffed-grainsquares,

chewyhotcocoawithcornmealormasa

ChorizoandshrimpwithblackriceChowder,smokyamaranthcornChutney:

spicyred-tomato,Nicole’stamarind

Cilantro:cilantro-chile-limesauce,long-braisedporkwithgritsandmayonnaise,

bulgurandblackbeanburgerswithcarrotslawandCincinnati-styleporkloafwithpinheadoatsClams,sofrito-bakedbrownricewithmussels,shrimp,andCocoa,hot,withcornmealormasaCoconut:

sesame-coconutcaramelcornwithagavenectarwholewheatcoconutandpistachioladooCoconutmilk:

blackricepuddingwithcandiedsweetpotatoandwildricesoupwithkabochasquash,kale,andCollardgreens,injerawithstewedlentilsandCookies:

browned-butteroatmealcookiescornmeal(masazaletti)oatybiscuitssaltedryecookies

Corncakes,mini,shreddedporkwithsmokyfruitsauceonfresh,rustic

shredded-beeftamalewithandmilletsaladwithpoblanochiles,grapetomatoes,andcilantroquinoawithtomatoes,avocado,sweetonion,balsamicreduction,andsmokyamaranthcornchowder

SeealsoCornbread;Cornmeal;Grits;Hominy;Polenta;PopcornCornbread:

Southernstuffing,old-fashioned

Cornishhens,wildrice-stuffed,withtarragoncrèmefraîcheCornmealbasiccookedblueberrycornmealmuffinscookies(masazaletti)cornmealoliveoilcakewithbasilglazegriddled,huevosrancheroswithhotcocoawithmasaorpancakes,withsorghum-plumcompoteshreddedporkwithsmokyfruit

sauceonminicorncakesSeealsoCornbread;Grits;PolentaCouscousbasiccookedbroiledfigswithfeta,mint,balsamicsyrup,andchard-flecked,withlemon

broiledfigswithfeta,mint,balsamicsyrup,andchard-flecked,withlemonzestandpinenutscouscous,melon,andcucumbersaladThaiherb,withbrownedbutterandshallotszucchini,wholeroastedrainbowtroutstuffedwithCowboysalad

Crackedwheatbasiccookedcurriedcrackedwheatandgreenlentilswithyogurtsweetcracked-wheat

puddingwithcardamomandcashewsCrackers:plaidrye,quick

Cranberries:dried,bakedoatmealwithdried,quinoasaladwithparsley,blackwalnuts,goatcheese,andfresh

cranberryriceCrèmefraîche

tarragon,wildrice-stuffedCornishhenswithCrêpes:buckwheat,withbutteredfruitandsweetricottachickpea-flour,with

quinoa,meltedpeppers,andgoatcheeseCrisp,cardamomappleCucumber:

coldcucumber-yogurtsoupwithdillandbarleycoldsobanoodleswithtahini,lime,shreddedchicken,andcouscous,melon,andcucumbersaladcucumber-tomatosalad,1,001lentilsandbrownbasmatiricewithCurriedcauliflowerandsorghumCurriedcrackedwheatandgreenlentilswithyogurtCustard:

limecustardpiewithalmondand“graham-flour”crustsavoryquinoasweetlemonquinoacustardswithpapayasyrupDDal,milletandwheat

berry,withcauliflowerandyellowsplitpeasDesserts.SeeCookies;SweetsDill:

coldcucumber-yogurtsoupwithbarleyandwarmspeltandnew-potatosaladwithbaconandDipsandspreads:

pimientocheesesun-driedtomatomuhammara

DirtyriceDrinks:

almondmilkbarleyteabatidodetrigo(LatinAmericanpuffed-wheatdrink)hotcocoawith

cornmealormasa

Dulse,crisped,redquinoaandcarrotsaladwithyellowpepper,grapefruit,andEEdamame,gingerysweetpotatoandmilletstewwithEggplant:

basil,ricotta,andtomatosauceforpastaandzucchini,crackedwheatinspicedtomatosaucewithEggs:

freekehandfriséehard-cookedhuevosrancheroswithgriddledcornmealkinchewithspicedbutterand

freshtomatoesyamkai(Thaieggs)withleftovergrainsEinkornwheatSeealsoFarro

EmmerwheatSeealsoFarro

Escarole,speltwithmilk-poachedgarlicandEthiopianbreadwithstewedlentilsandbraisedcollardgreensEthiopiancrackedwheatwithspicedbutterandfreshtomatoesF

Farina,wheatFarro

asparagusandkabochasquashfarrottowithlemonandbasilwithbacon,shavedBrusselssprouts,androastedchestnutsbasiccooked

withbutter-braisedceleryandtarragonwithroastchicken,broccolirabe,andcrispfriedlemonandsquidsaladwithmango,lime,andbasilthymefarrottowithroastedradishesandradishgreensSeealsoSpelt

Farrotto.SeeFarroFennel:

brownricerisottowithshrimp,amaro,andFennel,quick-pickledFeta:

broiledfigswithcouscous,mint,balsamicsyrup,andKamut,andgrilledgrapesaladwithflanksteakFigs,broiled,withcouscous,feta,mint,andbalsamicsyrupFish:

amaranth-crustedbakedcatfishcatfishandbarleylarbpan-friedsmeltwithtamari-citrusdippingsaucepinheadoat-crusted

catfish,roastedcauliflowerandmustardgreens,andlemoncreamsmokedfishandkashacakeswithwatercresssaladandcrèmefraîchespicedpan-searedwildsalmonwithquinoaandorangereductionwholeroastedrainbowtroutstuffedwithzucchinicouscousFlanksteak,Kamut,feta,andgrilledgrapesaladwithFlaxseeds:

seedynuttoppingFlour

FlourSeealsospecificgrains

Forbiddenrice.SeeBlackriceFreekehbasiccookedfreekehandfrisée

FreezingcookedgrainsFruitsauce,smoky,shreddedporkandminicorncakeswithGGaoden

SeealsoBlackriceGarlic:

chips,spicysteel-cutoatmealwithmilk-poached,speltwithescaroleandandroastedredpeppersauce,wholewheatpastawithpinenutsandGingerysweetpotatoandmilletstewwithedamameGlutensensitivity

Goatcheese:chickpea-flourcrêpeswithquinoa,meltedpeppers,andquinoasaladwith

parsley,driedcranberries,blackwalnuts,andGoetta,Dave’sGold,RozanneGomashioGranola:

barelysweetsavory,beetandapplesaladwithGrapefruit,redquinoaandcarrotsalad

withyellowpepper,crispeddulse,andGrapes:Kamut,feta,andgrilledgrapesaladwithflanksteakGratin,turnipand

greens,withcrunchymilletcrustGreenbeans:freekehandfriséefriedbrownricewithbalsamicvinegarandGreen-tomatoandpuffed-grain

chaatGreens:brownricekayuwithSeealsospecificgreens

Gritsbasiccookedbuttermilk,withpimientocheeselong-braisedpork,withcilantro-chile-lime

sauceandwithquickhomemadesausageandcrispedsageGruyère,polentatartwithSwisschard,crèmefraîche,andH

Hazelnuts,pearandspinachsaladwithquinoa,lemon-tahinidressing,andHealthandnutrition

Hominy

Hominybasiccookedredposolewithporkandmustardgreensandspinach,creamy,lemony

HoneywholewheatsandwichbreadHuevosrancheroswithgriddledcornmealHummusandbulgursandwichwithlemonvinaigrette,sprouts,andtomatoI

Indianmush,spicy(teffupma)Indianstreet-foodsnack(chaat)Indiansweets(ladoo)Injera

withstewedlentilsandbraisedcollardgreensItalianstuffedriceballs(supplì)Itoh,Makiko

JJapaneseporridgewithgreensJapanese-stylericeballswithseaweedandquick-pickledfennelKKabochasquash:

andasparagusfarrottowithlemonandbasilsobanoodlesindashiwithtofuandwildricesoupwithkale,coconutmilk,andKale,wildricesoupwithkabochasquash,coconutmilk,andKamut

basiccookedfeta,andgrilledgrapesaladwithflanksteakKashaandsmokedfishcakeswithwatercresssaladandcrèmefraîcheKayu,

brownrice,withgreensKettlecorn,GrandmaFredley’sKhorasanwheatKibbeh,turkeyandbeefKinchewithspicedbutterandfreshtomatoesLLadoo,wholewheatcoconutandpistachioLamb,butternutsquash,andbrown

basmatiricepilaf,Persian-styleLarb,barleyandcatfishLatinAmericanpuffed-wheatdrinkLeda’salegríasLemon:

crispfried,farrowithroastchicken,broccolirabe,andtahinidressing,pearandspinachsaladwithquinoa,hazelnuts,andMeyer,bulgursaladwithbrislingsardines,arugula,andpinheadoat-crustedcatfish,roastedcauliflowerandmustardgreens,andlemoncreamsweetlemonquinoacustardswithpapayasyrupLentils:

custardswithpapayasyrupLentils:curriedcrackedwheatandgreenlentilswithyogurtgreenlentil,Wehani

rice,andartichokeheartsalad1,001lentilsandbrownbasmatiricewithcucumber-tomatosaladstewed,injerawithbraisedcollardgreensandLime:

custardpiewithalmondand“graham-flour”crustsquidandfarrosaladwithmango,basil,andM

Makirolls,millet,withavocadopureeMango,squidandfarrosaladwithlime,basil,andMasaharinahotcocoawithmasazaletti(cornmealcookies)

Meatpie,quinoa,witholiveoilcrustMelon,couscous,andcucumbersaladMexicanpuffedamaranthsweets

Milletbasiccookedcrust,turnipandgreensgratinwithmakirolls,withavocadopureeroastedcauliflowerandgarlicmashedmilletspicystewed,withtomato,

cumin,andmustardseedswithspinach,caramelizedonion,andraisinssprouting

stuffedsweetpepperswithMontereyJack,basil,andandsweetcornsaladwithpoblanochiles,grapetomatoes,andcilantroandsweetpotatocakeswithPoblanocreamandsweetpotatostew,gingery,withedamamethyme-scented,withpeppersandwheatberrydalwithcauliflowerandyellowsplitpeasMuesli,pure

Muffins:appleoatblueberrycornmealryeandParmesansuppermuffins

Muhammara,sun-driedtomatoMujaddaraMushrooms:

blackquinoawithchickenconfit,quick-pickledonion,andporciniandbarley“risotto”

Mussels,sofrito-bakedbrownricewithclams,shrimp,andMustardgreens:pinheadoat-crustedcatfish,roastedcauliflowerandmustardgreens,and

lemoncreamredposolewithporkand

NNiterqibe,kinchewithfreshtomatoesandNoodles.SeeSobanoodle(s)OOatgroats

basiccookedandspinachsalad,withbluecheeseandtoastedwalnutsOatmealbaked,withdriedcranberriessavoryspicysteel-cut,withgarlicchipsOatsappleoatmuffinsbarelysweetgranolabasiccookedbrowned-butteroatmealcookiesbuttermilkoatcakescerealbarswithyogurtglutenandoatybiscuitspinhead,Cincinnati-styleporkloafwithpinheadoat-crustedcatfish,roasted

cauliflowerandmustardgreens,andlemoncreampuremueslisavorygranola,beetandapplesaladwithtrailbarsSeealsoOatgroats;OatmealOliveoil:cornmealcake,withbasilglazecrust,Mom’squinoameatpiewithOnigiri,brown-rice,withseaweedand

quick-pickledfennelOnion(s):caramelized,milletwithspinach,raisins,andcaramelized,withthymeand

balsamicvinegarpickledred,sproutedwheatberrysaladwithavocadoandquick-pickled,blackquinoawithchickenconfit,mushrooms,andsweet,quinoawithcorn,tomatoes,avocado,balsamicreduction,andP

Pancakes:buttermilkoatcakescornmeal,withsorghum-plumcompotefluffybuckwheatSeealsoCrêpes

Papayasyrup,sweetlemonquinoacustardswithParmesanandryesuppermuffinsParsley:classictabboulehandtoastedwalnutpastasauce

Pasta:

Pasta:homemadespeltpastasaucesforwholewheat,withroastedredpepperandgarlicsauceandpinenuts

Peaches,spicybulgursaladwithjalapeño,mintedyogurt,andPearandspinachsaladwithquinoa,hazelnuts,andlemon-tahinidressingPellagra

Pepitas:seedynuttopping

Peppers,hot.SeeChile(s)Peppers,sweet:chickpea-flourcrêpeswithquinoa,meltedpeppers,andgoatcheese

pimientocheeseredquinoaandcarrotsaladwithyellowpepper,grapefruit,andcrisped

dulseroastedredpepperandgarlicsauce,wholewheatpastawithpinenutsandstuffedsweetpepperswithmillet,MontereyJack,andbasilthyme-scentedmilletwith

Persian-stylelamb,butternutsquash,andbrownbasmatiricepilafPhyticacidPickledfennelPickledonion:

blackquinoawithchickenconfit,mushrooms,andsproutedwheatberrysaladwithavocadoandPie,limecustard,withalmondand“graham-flour”crustPilaf,Persian-stylelamb,butternutsquash,andbrownbasmatiricePimientocheese

buttermilkgritswithPinheadoats

SeealsoOatsPistachios:

wholewheatcoconutandpistachioladooPlum-sorghumcompote,cornmealpancakeswithPoblanochiles:

milletandsweetcornsaladwithgrapetomatoes,cilantro,andsweetpotatoandmilletcakeswithpoblanocreamPolenta

basiccookedclassicsofttart,withSwisschard,Gruyère,andcrèmefraîche“Polenta,”amaranth

Popcorn:GrandmaFredley’skettlecornold-fashionedsesame-coconutcaramelcornwithagavenectarPoppedamaranth

sesame-coconutcaramelcornwithagavenectarPoppedamaranthamaranth-crustedbakedcatfishbarelysweetgranolaandtoastedwheatberryfool

PoppedsorghumPorciniandbarley“risotto”Pork:

loaf,Cincinnati-style,withpinheadoatslong-braised,withgritsandcilantro-chile-limesauceredposolewithmustardgreensandandryeberrystewwithcarawayandsauerkrautshredded,withsmokyfruitsauceonminicorncakesSeealsoSausage

Porridge.SeeCereal,hot;OatmealPosolered,withporkandmustardgreensSeealsoHominy

Potatoes:warmspeltandnew-potatosaladwithbaconanddillPrecookinggrains

ProteinPudding:

blackrice,withcoconutmilkandcandiedsweetpotatodouble-quinoavanillapudding

sweetcracked-wheat,withcardamomandcashewsPuffedgrains:amaranthanddriedcherrychocolateschewychocolate-tahinipuffed-grain

squaresLatinAmericanpuffed-wheatdrinkMexicanpuffedamaranthsweets

puffed-grainandgreen-tomatochaatQQuinn,BobQuinoa

basiccookedblack,withchickenconfit,mushrooms,andquick-pickledonionchickpea-

flourcrêpeswithmeltedpeppers,goatcheese,andandchickpea-floursweetswithcardamomcustard,savory

double-quinoavanillapuddingMom’squinoameatpiewitholiveoilcrustpan-friedtofuwithalmonds,

redchiles,andpearandspinachsaladwithhazelnuts,lemon-tahinidressing,andporridge,withvanillaandalmondmilkredquinoaandcarrotsaladwithyellowpepper,grapefruit,andcrispeddulseroastedbutternutsquashwithsausageandsalad,withparsley,driedcranberries,blackwalnuts,andgoatcheeseandshrimpspringrolls

spicedpan-searedwildsalmonwithorangereductionandsproutedquinoa

spicedpan-searedwildsalmonwithorangereductionandsproutedquinoasaladwithyellowtomatoesandscallionssprouting

sweetlemonquinoacustardswithpapayasyrupRRadishes,roasted,thymefarrottowithradishgreensandRedrice–30Seealso

WehaniriceReinhart,PeterRicebasiccookedblackricepuddingwithcoconutmilkandcandiedsweetpotatoblack,

shrimpandchorizowithbrownricekayuwithgreensbrownricestuffedcabbagecrushed,spicy,sourThaisaladwithfreshcranberryricefriedbrownricewithgreenbeansandbalsamicvinegargreenlentil,

Wehanirice,andartichokeheartsalad1,001lentilsandbrownbasmatiricewithcucumber-tomatosaladsesameandcashewbrownbasmatiricesofrito-bakedbrownricewithclams,mussels,andshrimpspicedbrownbasmatirice

turniprice(very)dirtyriceSeealsoRiceballs;Risotto;WildriceRiceballs:Japanese-style,withseaweedandquick-pickledfenneloven-bakedbrown-

ricesupplìRicotta:

eggplant,basil,ricotta,andtomatosauceforpastasweet,buckwheatcrêpeswithbutteredfruitandRisotto,brownrice,withshrimp,fennel,andamaro“Risotto,”porciniandbarley

RolledoatsSeealsoOats

RyeandParmesansuppermuffinsplaidcrackersquickryecrackerssaltedryecookiesSeealsoRyeberries;TriticaleRyeberriesbasiccookedwithbraisedredcabbage,apples,anddriedcurrantsporkandryeberrystew

withcarawayandsauerkrautSSage:

caraway-sagespeltbreadsticks

caraway-sagespeltbreadstickscrisped,gritswithhomemadesausageandSaladdressings:basicvinaigrettebuttermilk-yogurt,withchives

Salad(s):beetandapple,withsavorygranolabulgur,withbrislingsardines,Meyer

lemon,andarugulaclassictabboulehcoldsobanoodleswithtahini,lime,cucumber,andshreddedchicken

couscous,melon,andcucumbercowboy(barelysteamedbroccoliandbarley)cucumber-tomato,1,001

lentilsandbrownbasmatiricewithfreekehandfriséegreenlentil,Wehanirice,andartichokehearticy,spicysobanoodlesaladKamut,feta,andgrilledgrape,withflanksteakmilletandsweetcorn,with

poblanochiles,grapetomatoes,andcilantropearandspinach,withquinoa,hazelnuts,andlemon-tahinidressingquinoawithcorn,tomatoes,avocado,sweetonion,andbalsamicreductionquinoa,withparsley,driedcranberries,blackwalnuts,andgoatcheeseredquinoaandcarrot,withyellowpepper,grapefruit,andcrispeddulsespicybulgur,withpeaches,jalapeño,andmintedyogurtspicy,sourThaisaladwithcrushedrice,catfish,andbarleyspinachandoatgroats,withbluecheeseandtoastedwalnutssproutedquinoa,withyellowtomatoesandscallionssproutedwheatberry,withavocadoandpickledredonionsquidandfarro,withmango,lime,andbasilwarmspeltandnew-potato,withbaconanddillwarmwheatberryandbeet,withanise-scentedyogurtcheesewatercress,smokedfishandkashacakeswithcrèmefraîcheandSeealsoSlaw

Salmon,spicedpan-seared,withquinoaandorangereductionSalsa:huevosrancheroswithgriddledcornmealSaltedryecookies

Sardines,brisling,bulgursaladwithMeyerlemon,arugula,andSauerkraut,porkandryeberrystewwithcarawayandSausage:Dave’sgoetta(Cincinnati-styleporkloafwithpinheadoats)quick

homemade,gritswithcrispedsageandroastedbutternutsquashwithquinoaandsausageshrimpandchorizowithblackriceScheintaub,Leda

Scottishoats.SeePinheadoatsSeedynuttoppingSesame:

andcashewbrownbasmatiricegomashio

gomashioLeda’salegríasseedynuttoppingsesame-coconutcaramelcornwithagavenectarSeealsoTahini

Shallots:Thaiherbcouscouswithbrownedbutterandyamkaiwithleftovergrains

Shrimp:brownricerisottowithfennel,amaro,andandchorizo,withblackriceandquinoaspringrollssobanoodleswithsugar-snappeasandsofrito-bakedbrownricewith

clams,mussels,andSlaw:carrot,bulgurandblackbeanburgerswithcilantromayonnaiseandcreamy

sorghumandcabbageSmelt,pan-fried,withtamari-citrusdippingsauceSmith,DeliaSmokedpaprika,bulgurandredbeanstewwithSobanoodle(s)

cold,withtahini,lime,cucumber,andshreddedchickenindashiwithtofuandkabochasquashsalad,icyandspicy

withshrimpandsugar-snappeasSofrito-bakedbrownricewithclams,mussels,andshrimpSojiSorghum

basiccookedandcabbageslaw,creamycurriedcauliflowerandsorghum-plumcompote,cornmealpancakeswithSoup(s):chickenandtomatillo,withamaranthchickenandwildrice,brothycucumber-yogurt,cold,withdillandbarleyredposolewithporkand

mustardgreenssmokyamaranthcornchowderwildrice,withkabochasquash,kale,andcoconutmilkSeealsoStew

SoutherncornbreadSpeltandspeltberries

basiccookedcaraway-sagespeltbreadstickshomemadespeltpastaspeltwithescaroleandmilk-poachedgarlicwarmspeltandnew-potato

saladwithbaconanddillSeealsoFarroSpicedbutter,kinchewithfreshtomatoesandSpinach:

creamy,lemonyhominyandmilletwithcaramelizedonions,raisins,andandoatgroatssaladwithblue

milletwithcaramelizedonions,raisins,andandoatgroatssaladwithbluecheeseandtoastedwalnutsandpearsaladwithquinoa,hazelnuts,andlemon-tahinidressingSplitpeas,yellow,milletandwheatberrydalwithcauliflowerandSpringrolls,shrimpandquinoaSproutinggrains

sproutedquinoasaladwithyellowtomatoesandscallionssproutedwheatberrysaladwithavocadoandpickledredonionSquash.SeeButternutsquash;Kabochasquash;ZucchiniSquidandfarrosaladwithmango,lime,andbasilSteel-cutoats

SeealsoOatsStew:

bulgurandredbean,withsmokedpaprikaporkandryeberry,withcarawayandsauerkrautsweetpotatoandmillet,gingery,withedamameSeealsoSoup(s)

Stocks,quickStoringgrains

cookedgrainsStuffing,old-fashionedcornbreadSugar-snappeas,sobanoodleswithshrimp

andSun-driedtomatomuhammaraSuper-grainbreadSupplì,brown-rice,oven-bakedSushi:

milletmakirollswithavocadopureeSweetpotato:candied,blackricepuddingwithcoconutmilkandandmilletcakeswith

poblanocreamandmilletstew,gingery,withedamameSweets:amaranthanddriedcherrychocolatescardamomapplecrispchewychocolate-tahinipuffed-grainsquarescornmealoliveoilcakewith

basilglazeLeda’salegrías(Mexicanpuffedamaranthsweets)limecustardpiewithalmondand“graham-flour”crustquinoaandchickpea-floursweetswithcardamomsweetlemonquinoacustardswithpapayasyruptrailbars

wholewheatcoconutandpistachioladooSeealsoCookies;PuddingSwisschard:

chard-fleckedcouscouswithlemonzestandpinenutspolentatartwithGruyère,crèmefraîche,andT

Tabboulehclassic

Tahini:

chewychocolate-tahinipuffed-grainsquarescoldsobanoodleswithlime,cucumber,shreddedchicken,andlemon-tahinidressing,pearandspinachsaladwithquinoa,hazelnuts,andTamale,rusticshredded-beef,withfreshcornTamari-citrusdippingsauce,pan-friedsmeltwithTamarindchutney

Tarragon:crèmefraîche,wildrice-stuffedCornishhenswithfarrowithbutter-braised

celeryandTart,polenta,withSwisschard,Gruyère,andcrèmefraîcheTea,barley

Teffbasiccookedinjera(Ethiopianbread)teffupma(spicyIndianmush)

Thaidishes:catfishandbarleylarbeggswithleftovergrains(yamkai)Thaiherbcouscouswithbrownedbutter

andshallotsThyme:andbalsamicvinegar,caramelizedonionswithfarrotto,withroasted

radishesandradishgreensthyme-scentedmilletwithpeppersToastinggrains

Tofu:pan-fried,withquinoa,almonds,andredchilessobanoodlesindashiwith

kabochasquashandTomatilloandchickensoupwithamaranthTomato(es):

classictabboulehcucumber-tomatosalad,1,001lentilsandbrownbasmatiricewitheggplant,

basil,ricotta,andtomatosauceforpastagrape,milletandsweetcornsaladwithpoblanochiles,cilantro,andkinchewithspicedbutterand

puffed-grainandgreen-tomatochaatquinoawithcorn,avocado,sweetonion,balsamicreduction,andspicedtomatosauce,crackedwheatin,witheggplantandzucchinispicyred-tomatochutney,Nicole’sspicystewedmilletwithcumin,mustardseeds,andsun-driedtomatomuhammara

yellow,sproutedquinoasaladwithscallionsandTrailbarsTriticaleTrout,wholeroasted,stuffedwithzucchinicouscousTuna:

freekehandfriséeTurkey:

Turkey:andbeefkibbehbrownricestuffedcabbagesausage,quickhomemade

TurnipandgreensgratinwithcrunchymilletcrustTurnipgreens,wheatberriesandblack-eyedpeaswithTurniprice

VVanillapudding,double-quinoaVegetablestock,quickVegetariansandvegansVinaigrette,basic

WWaffles,walnutWalnuts:

sun-driedtomatomuhammaratoasted,spinachandoatgroatssaladwithbluecheeseandtoastedwalnut

andparsleypastasaucewalnutwafflesWalters,TerryWatercresssalad,smokedfishandkashacakeswithcrèmefraîcheandWehani

ricegreenlentil,andartichokeheartsaladWells,Patricia

Wheat–37batidodetrigo(LatinAmericanpuffed-wheatdrink)crackedwheatin

spicedtomatosaucewitheggplantandzucchiniEthiopiancrackedwheatwithspicedbutterandfreshtomatoesfreekehandfrisée

sweetcracked-wheatpuddingwithcardamomandcashewsSeealsoBulgur;Couscous;Farro;Freekeh;Kamut;Pasta;Spelt;Triticale;Wheatberry(ies);WholewheatWheatberry(ies)

basiccooked

basiccookedandbeetsalad,warm,withanise-scentedyogurtcheeseandblack-eyedpeas

withturnipgreensandmilletdalwithcauliflowerandyellowsplitpeaspoppedamaranthandtoastedwheatberryfoolsproutedwheatberrysaladwithavocadoandpickledredonionsprouting

Wholewheat:honeywholewheatsandwichbreadpasta,withroastedredpepperand

garlicsauceandpinenutssuper-grainbreadwholewheatcoconutandpistachioladooSeealsoWheat;specificformsof

wheatWildrice

basiccookedandchickensoup,brothysoup,withkabochasquash,kale,andcoconutmilkwildrice-stuffed

CornishhenswithtarragoncrèmefraîcheYYamkai(Thaieggs)withleftovergrainsYogurt:

buttermilk-yogurtdressingwithchivescerealbarswithcoldcucumber-yogurtsoupwithdillandbarleycurriedcrackedwheatand

greenlentilswithminted,spicybulgursaladwithpeaches,jalapeño,andpoppedamaranthandtoastedwheatberryfoolYogurtcheese,anise-scented,warmwheatberryandbeetsaladwithZ

Zaletti,masa(cornmealcookies)Zucchini:couscous,wholeroastedrainbowtroutstuffedwithandeggplant,cracked

wheatinspicedtomatosaucewith

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

ThanksfirstmustgotomyeditoratStewart,TaboriandChang,NatalieKaire,whofirstapproachedmeaboutwritingthisbookandwhowasaconstantsourceofenthusiasticencouragementthroughouttheprocess.ElinorHuttondeservesaspecialthankyouforherthoughtfuleditsandsuggestions,allofwhichimprovedthe book immeasurably; I’m lucky to have had her as a developmental editor.Ellie also shepherded the book through the final stages of photography anddesignwithgraceandimpeccabletaste.I’dalsoliketothankmyfriendMarisaBulzoneforherinvaluableadviceandsupport.

SpecialthanksgotomygoodfriendandfrequentcollaboratorLedaScheintaub,a cookbook author and editor, who read recipes as I was working on them,offering ideasandadviceandsupport, and thenalsocopyedited thecompletedmanuscriptwithherlegendaryeagleeyeandrecipesmarts.Thanks, too, tomyfriend Sarah Scheffel, recipe tester and editor, for her work on many of thevegan and vegetarian dishes. I’d also like to thank, as usual, my good friendReganHuff, one of the best cooks I’ve ever known,who loadedme upwithinspiring ideas right from the beginning and then was kind enough to takecontainer after container of food—some of it tasty, some just edible—offmyhandsandoutofmycrazycrowdedrefrigeratorso Icouldkeepcookingmorefood week after week, month after month. She also, thoughtfully as always,madesureIoftenhadoccasiontoenjoyentirelygrain-freemealswithherasIwasworkingonthisbook.

Once again a cookbook is far better for having in large part been made inAthens,Georgia,asmalltownwithperhapsanunlikelyconcentrationofpeoplewhoenjoyandproduceexcellentfood—andphotographsoffood.RinneAllenistrulythebestphotographerIcouldhavehopedtohaveshotthepicturesforthisbook.SheandthetalentedandcreativepropandfoodstylistLucyAllenGillisaredirectly responsible forhowdeliciousandbeautifulall thewholegrains inthesepages look.Thankyou,Rinne andLucy, formaking it all incomparablygorgeous—andfun.AndthankyoutoChrissyReed,formakingtheshootmuch,much easier than it could have been. The Four Coursemen also deserve mysincerestgratitudeforallowingustousetheirspace—andreallyuseithard—for

severalweeks.I’dliketothankCharlesRamsayandMimiMaumusattheFive& Ten restaurant as well: Charles for his amazing quinoa custard recipe andMimiforsomelast-minutetruefrisée.

Asalways,thankyoutomyparents,DaveandDianaFredley,forideas,oldandnew recipes, spurtles, and every other kind of support you can imagine themproviding from thousandsofmilesaway.Finally, thankyou tomypatientandsupportivehusbandanddaughter,DerekandThalia,mybestfriends,myloves,foreverything.

*Ifglutenisanissue,besuretochecktheingredientsofthesausage,ormakeyourown(thispage;omitthesageandmaplesyrup,andaddagoodpinchoffennelseeds).

*Ifglutenisanissue,definitelydon’tusepreshreddedcheese,whoseadditivesmaynotbeglutenfree.

Grainsmarkedwith * can be cooked in larger quantities by scaling up the proportionswith no loss ofquality;†indicatesthatthegrainsaregoodtofreeze.

whole grains for a new generation: light dishes, hearty meals, sweet treats, and sundry snacks for...

Documents