welcome back! industrializing taste: food processing and...

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Culinary Historians of Washington, D.C. September 2013 Volume XVIII, Number 1 Culinary Historians of Washington, D.C. (CHoW/DC) founded in 1996, is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit, educational organization dedicated to the study of the history of foodstuffs, cuisines, and culi- nary customs, both historical and contemporary, from all parts of the world. Donations are tax deductible to the full extent of the law. www.chowdc.org Dues to: Stacey FitzSimmons 4711 Langdrum Lane Chevy Chase, MD 20815 Dr. Gabriella Petrick George Mason University Sunday, September 8 2:30 to 4:30 p.m. Bethesda-Chevy Chase Services Center, 4805 Edgemoor Lane, Bethesda, MD 20814 Industrializing Taste: Food Processing and the Transformation of the American Diet, 1900-1965 Iceberg lettuce has not always been the most con- sumed green leafy vegetable in the United States. The de- velopment of large-scale lettuce production in California’s Salinas Valley illustrates the tensions between technology and nature and provides a starting point for understand- ing the complexities of supplying vast quantities of quality fresh produce to consumers in distant markets. This case shows that the industrializa- tion of agriculture was largely idiosyncratic, and the level of industrialization possible varied by crop, depending equally on the nature of the commod- ity and the willingness of consumers to purchase it. The emergence of lettuce cultivation during the inter-war period highlights how early growers harnessed organizational techniques, transporta- tion infrastructures, and technological and scientific knowledge to transcend both consumer taste and the ephemeral nature of lettuce to make it the first vegetable available year round and our “favorite” vegetable. Gabriella M. Petrick, Ph.D. received her degree from the University of Delaware as a Hagley Fellow and is currently an Associate Professor of Nutrition and Food Stud- ies in the Department of Nutrition and Food Studies at George Mason University. She is also affiliate faculty in the Department of History and Art History. Her interdisciplin- ary research on food combines the fields of the history of technology, sensory history, environmental history, and the history of science. Additionally, Dr. Petrick’s training at the Culinary Institute of America, Cornell University, and at several wineries in Napa and Sonoma Counties has shaped her theoretical approach to taste. Her forthcoming book with Johns Hopkins University Press, tentatively entitled Industrializing Taste: Food Processing and the Transformation of the American Diet, 1900-1965, analyzes how new food processing techniques transformed the foods available to American consumers as well as how housewives incorporated these new industrial foods into their family’s diet over the course of the last century. She is also working on a second book project, Sweet, Sour, Salty, Bitter: Taste in History, for the sensory history series at the University of Illinois Press that looks at the importance of taste historically. Welcome Back! Renew Your Membership in CHoW NOW! The membership year runs from September 1 to August 31. Annual dues are $25 for individuals, households, or organizations. Dues include e-mail delivery of the newsletter CHoW Line. Dues are $35 for members who also wish to receive a mailed, paper copy of the newsletter. In addition to receiving CHoW Line, other benefits of membership include priority registration for field trips, eligibility to vote, hold office, and serve on committees. Members also receive all meeting notices, special interest notices via GoogleGroups, and a printed membership roster. CHoW/DC publishes CHoW Line eight times each year. More information can be found at www.chowdc.org. SEE PAGE 9 to join or renew your membership.

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Page 1: Welcome Back! Industrializing Taste: Food Processing and ...chowdc.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/chowline_sept_2013.pdf · January 12, 2014. John DeFerrari, “Historic Restaurants

Culinary Historians of Washington, D.C. September 2013 Volume XVIII, Number 1

Culinary Historians of Washington, D.C. (CHoW/DC)founded in 1996, is a 501(c)(3) nonprofit, educational organization dedicated to the study of the history of foodstuffs, cuisines, and culi-nary customs, both historical and contemporary, from all parts of the world. Donations are tax deductible to the full extent of the law.

www.chowdc.orgDues to: Stacey FitzSimmons

4711 Langdrum LaneChevy Chase, MD 20815

Dr. Gabriella Petrick George Mason University

Sunday, September 8

2:30 to 4:30 p.m. Bethesda-Chevy Chase Services Center,

4805 Edgemoor Lane, Bethesda, MD 20814

Industrializing Taste: Food Processing and the Transformation of the American Diet, 1900-1965

Iceberg lettuce has not always been the most con-sumed green leafy vegetable in the United States. The de-velopment of large-scale lettuce production in California’s Salinas Valley illustrates the tensions between technology and nature and provides a starting point for understand-

ing the complexities of supplying vast quantities of quality fresh produce to consumers in distant markets. This case shows that the industrializa-

tion of agriculture was largely idiosyncratic, and the level of industrialization possible varied by crop, depending equally on the nature of the commod-ity and the willingness of consumers to purchase

it. The emergence of lettuce cultivation during the inter-war period highlights how early growers harnessed organizational techniques, transporta-

tion infrastructures, and technological and scientific knowledge to transcend both consumer taste and the

ephemeral nature of lettuce to make it the first vegetable available year round and our “favorite” vegetable. Gabriella M. Petrick, Ph.D. received her degree from the University of Delaware as a Hagley Fellow and is currently an Associate Professor of Nutrition and Food Stud-ies in the Department of Nutrition and Food Studies at George Mason University. She is also affiliate faculty in the Department of History and Art History. Her interdisciplin-ary research on food combines the fields of the history of technology, sensory history, environmental history, and the history of science. Additionally, Dr. Petrick’s training at the Culinary Institute of America, Cornell University, and at several wineries in Napa and Sonoma Counties has shaped her theoretical approach to taste. Her forthcoming book with Johns Hopkins University Press, tentatively entitled Industrializing Taste: Food Processing and the Transformation of the American Diet, 1900-1965, analyzes how new food processing techniques transformed the foods available to American consumers as well as how housewives incorporated these new industrial foods into their family’s diet over the course of the last century. She is also working on a second book project, Sweet, Sour, Salty, Bitter: Taste in History, for the sensory history series at the University of Illinois Press that looks at the importance of taste historically.

Welcome Back!

Renew Your Membership in CHoW NOW!

The membership year runs from September 1 to August 31. Annual dues are $25 for individuals, households, or organizations. Dues include e-mail delivery of the newsletter CHoW Line.

Dues are $35 for members who also wish to receive a mailed, paper copy of the newsletter.

In addition to receiving CHoW Line, other benefits of membership include priority registration for field trips, eligibility to vote, hold office, and serve on committees.

Members also receive all meeting notices, special interest notices via GoogleGroups, and a printed membership roster.

CHoW/DC publishes CHoW Line eight times each year. More information can be found at www.chowdc.org.

SEE PAGE 9 to join or renew your membership.

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September 8, 2013. Gabriella Petrick, “Industrializing Taste: Food Processing and the Transformation of the American Diet, 1900-1965” (see page 1)

October 13, 2013. Rob Kasper, “Baltimore Beer: A Satisfying History of Charm City Brewing”

November 10, 2013. Monica Bhide, “Sacred Foods of India through Its Temples, Mosques, and Gurudwaras” December 8, 2013. Joy Frasier, “Addressing the Haggis: Culture and Contestation in the Making of Scotland’s National Dish”

January 12, 2014. John DeFerrari, “Historic Restaurants of Washington, D.C.”

February 9, 2014. Luigi Diotaiuti and Amy Riolo, “Pasta and Cheese Making History in Southern Italy”

March 9, 2014. James D. Porterfield, “Dining Car Cuisine”

April 13, 2014. Cooperative Supper, Alexandria House

May 4, 2014. To be determined.

CHoW Programs 2013-2014

What Happened at the Sunday, May 5 CHoW Meeting?President CiCi Williamson called the meeting to order at 2:35 p.m., welcoming 52 attendees, including 11 guests and new members.

ANNOUNCEMENTS: To reach a wider audience on your announcements of events, symposiums, culinary tours, blogs, exhibits and other CHoW related matters, members are reminded and encouraged to submit the information in advance to CHoW Line Editor Dianne Hennessy King or President CiCi Williamson for the [email protected].

CiCi announced that having served as president for the past two years, this was her last meeting and that a new Board takes over in September. CiCi gave thanks to Quen-tin Looney for creating the name tags, Shirley Cherkasky for creating the carrier for the name tags and the services of the current Board.

She presented the slate of offices for next year as follows:

President Katy Hayes Vice President Sheilah Kaufman Recording Secretary Beverly Firme Membership Secretary Quentin Looney Treasurer Stacey FitzSimmons Director Claudia Kousoulas Director Bruce Reynolds Past President CiCi Williamson (ex officio)

No additional nominations were made from the floor. Shirley Cherkasky made a motion to accept the slate and Amy Riolo seconded the motion. The membership voted in favor of the slate.

CHoW has printed its new membership brochure for distri-bution. Members can contact CiCi for copies.

WHATZIT: Willis and Carter Van Devanter brought in a black metal rod about two-feet long with a center groove. One end is oval and the other is pointed. The shape resembles a giant sewing needle. It was identified as a tool to insert in a cheese wheel to take samples of cheese.

PROGRAM: Katy introduced speakers and CHoW mem-bers Sheilah Kaufman and Amy Riolo (see right) DOOR PRIZES: Members attending the monthly meetings can enter for a door prize. Thank you to Claudia Kousou-las for donating the cookbooks and Katherine Livingston for the spices.

REFRESHMENTS: Thank you to our members:

Felice Caspar: Carrots with garlic & yogurt (Yogurtlu Ha-vuc), Amy Riolo’s recipe adapted from Sheilah Kaufman’s recipeClaire Cassidy & John Rosine: Cake made of semolina, coconut, honey, almonds, butter, and phyllo filled with honey, almonds, and butter (Asadur Bakery)Beverly Firme: Thumbprint cookies with rose or raspberry jam

Turkish Cuisine and the Ottoman Culinary Legacy

Sheilah Kaufman and Amy Riolo took us on a culinary journey through Turkey and the Middle East. Sheilah be-gan the journey with a historical and cultural overview of Turkish cuisine and the role of the Ottomans. Amy then expanded upon the Ottoman influence and contributions to the Arab world, in-cluding North Africa, the Levant, and the Arabian Peninsula.

Sheilah Kaufman: Turkish roasted red pepper & walnut spread with pitaKatherine Livingston: Lentil balls (Mercimek Koftesi) Judy Newton: Pokeweed of the seasonAmy Riolo: Ravani (farina cake)

The meeting adjourned at 3:55 p.m. Thank you to the mem-bers who volunteered to reset the meeting room.

Respectfully submitted,Audrey Hong, Recording Secretary

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Welcome, New Members!

Kanani Hoopai Culinary practices of the Federal period (ca. 1790 - 1830) Judith Mazza Food photography; Mediterranean, Asian, & non-European Jewish cuisines Caroline Painter 18th and 19th century history Brooke Parkhurst TripleOakBakery.com

Present:CiCi Williamson, President Katy Hayes, Vice PresidentAudrey Hong, Recording Secretary Quentin Looney, Membership SecretaryBruce Reynolds, TreasurerJane Olmsted, Director (Room Coordinator)Dianne Hennessy King, CHoW Line newsletter Editor

Sheilah Kaufman, Vice President nomineeBeverly Firme, nominated Recording Secretary nominee Absent:Claudia Kousoulas, Director (Publicity)Katherine Livingston, Past President

President CiCi Williamson called the meeting to order at 1:00 p.m.

Treasurer’s ReportBruce Reynolds reported that as of April 30, 2013, CHoW’s expenses are under control. Though revenue from dues was lower this calendar year, CHoW is able to cover expenses because speaker honoraria and travel reimburse-ments were less. To date, there is a small surplus.

After approval of the Board, printing of a new CHoW brochure for membership recruitment was completed in March. The room rental for fall meetings is due in May. Montgomery County resident Paula Johnson will be han-dling the reservations with the county.

Finding a projector for the monthly meetings and compat-ibility of equipment have been problematic. With the price of projectors going down, the Board favored buying a new projector. Vice President Katy Hayes volunteered to look into the prices. CHoW will request future speakers to bring their presentations on a thumb drive and use the CHoW projector. This will eliminate problems with connecting the speaker’s laptop with our projector when showing a PowerPoint presentation.

Bruce will ensure the necessary transition of responsibili-ties for the incoming treasurer. The change of the signa-ture card at the bank and related financial records will be updated. Bruce will serve as a Board Director for next year. He will be able to continue to handle the nonprofit status with IRS and power of attorney.

MembershipMembership Secretary Quentin Looney reported that there were 16 new memberships and 28 lapsed memberships for a total of 102 members for the year.

Membership expenses to date covered the printing of the roster for distribution to members and mailing requested hard copies of the newsletters.

In February, Quentin sent reminders about dues owed. As a result, there were some pickups in renewal. Some of the

lapsed memberships were of long term members.Discussion ensued about increasing membership and attracting younger members. Suggestions for publicity included contacting specific departments at the universities (anthropology, history, nutrition, etc.), culinary programs, culinary schools, Smithsonian Folklife Festival, culinary and historical “spots,” and related associations and orga-nizations. For example, if Dining Car Cuisine is confirmed, notifying railroad hobbyists and memorabilia organiza-tions should be a goal.

CHoW needs to look at other social media besides Face book, which does not attract as much.

CiCi plans to distribute the CHoW brochure in the exposi-tion bag for the Les Dames Symposium on March 8, 2014.

Slate of OfficersThe Nominating Committee completed the following slate of officers to be presented at the May meeting for voting. (See slate on page 2 in meeting minutes.)

Web siteKaty will upload last year’s newsletters and will redact contact information.

Facebook received a few more “likes.”

Programs The Board reviewed members’ program suggestions and selected speakers to be contacted over the summer. The speakers and their topics will be announced in the Septem-ber newsletter.

Field Trips• Peirce Mill, D.C.: Quentin reported that the miller position is still vacant. The position may be filled in the fall. • Mooseum, Maryland: Katherine Livingston said it didn’t work out as a field trip.• Colvin Run Mill, Virginia: Dianne Hennessy King will look into a visit there.

CiCi thanked the Board members for their services.The 2012-2013 Board meeting was adjourned at 2:10 p.m.

Respectfully submitted,Audrey Hong, Recording Secretary

Minutes of CHoW Board Meeting, May 5, 2013

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Appalachian Amusement

If the jokes are as old as the hills, you must be in Appala-chia. Humor has always had a special place in the moun-tains. At best, it cements lifelong bonds; at worst, it eases the pain of hard lives and empty gizzards.

I grew up in Pittsburgh, which is technically in the Appa-lachian foothills, though generally divorced from Ap-palachian culture. But nearby access to mountain sports gradually turned me into a weekend hillbilly. Enough, at least, to understand some funny foods, like “ramps” are wild leeks, “goober peas” are peanuts, and “government beef” is illegally poached deer. Also enough to know the difference between real hill life and caricature.

Most people know nothing more about Appalachian life than the caricature of the Beverly Hillbillies, oddly mis-placed hill folk from Tennessee. Their comedy regularly revolved around the essentials of life: vittles, hunting, and moonshine (though not necessarily in that order). Look for the food humor: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUQjD7fhxjAhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0XC2KM3-o6shttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5cpPtcCTL3k

Real hill humor is a lot more subtle and often reflects a whimsical touch of self-deprecation. See if this seems a bit more real to you, from “Laughter in Appalachia” by Loyal Jones and Billy Edd Wheeler, 1987 (but the jokes are much older—as old as the hills).

A farmer grew a lot of hogs on his hillside. He mostly let them roam in the woods, eat acorns, and root for whatever they could find. Occasionally he would feed them some shelled corn. The county agent came by to give him some advice, which was that he ought to use commercial hog feed. His main argument was that, on a balanced diet, the hogs would grow and fatten faster. “That way you save a lot of time,” he argued. The farmer reflected and said, “What’s time to a hog?”

—Or this one—

Two fellows went into a restaurant. One had recently got religion and, when the waitress asked him what he wanted to drink, he said he wanted milk. The other man said, “Bring him a beer. He likes beer.” The waitress went away, and the first man said, “The Lord heard me order milk!”

Cheers! TW

Culinary Humor

By Tom Weiland

Blogs, Radio, and Websites

www.npr.org/blogs/thesalt A food blog of National Public Radio. You can listen to or read "The Salt" broadcast programs, some of which are of particular

interest to culinary historians. For example, an August 3, 2013 program,"Bringing Home the Wooly Bacon," dis-cussed the heritage Hungarian pig, the Mangalicas (Man-galitsas in English), a curly-haired pig now being raised in the Catskills and a few other U.S. locations, while it is also enjoying a resurgence in Hungary.

www.goodreads.com/shelf/show/food-history A community of readers that reviews books; it includes a food history category.

www.americanfoodroots.com A local group of four journalists and food writers consider the ques-tion: “Why do we eat what we eat?” Bonny Wolf, Domenica Marchetti, Carol Guensburg, and Michele Kayal answer your questions, write

well-researched articles, publish some unpublished mate-rial from U.S. archives, and provide a newsletter. They encourage home cooks and cooks from new and immigrant communities to share their food and stories.

www.vafoodheritage.com

A new website that aims to gather and disperse informa-tion on Virginia food heritage. This is a pilot project that is beginning with the central Virginia region. According to their website, "No comprehensive survey or documenta-tion of the food and farming heritage of central Virginia exists, and we are slowly losing the opportunity to gather home-grown knowledge about hundreds of plants native to our region from a fading generation." In addition, there is a selection of Central Virginia Food Heritage Short Films produced as part of the Virginia Food Heritage Planning course at the University of Vir-ginia, Department of Urban and Environmental Planning. The interview films, more or less three minutes long, have been posted to You Tube and include such titles as "Nelson Farm Memories, Then and Now," "Central Virginia Wine Heritage," and "We Fed Each Other." The films are also available as a link on the Virginia Heritage website. There is also an interactive survey form that one can fill out to share one’s knowledge and experience with Virginia foods: www.surveymonkey.com/s/VA_Food_Heritage_Survey

Compiled by Dianne Hennessy King

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The U.S. is currently commemorating both the “Second War of Independence” (now called the War of 1812) and the American Civil War. In Prince George’s County, a few miles from Andrews Air Force Base, are two fascinating historic homes illustrative of those eras—one a Georgian mansion, and the other, a middle-class farm house. Of interest to culinary historians, each has an indoor, period-equipped kitchen and dining rooms. Darnall’s Chance was built in 1742 in what is now Up-per Marlboro, Md. It is named after Colonel Henry Dar-nall, a wealthy planter who was the Proprietary Agent of Charles Calvert, 3rd Baron Baltimore, and who served for a time as Deputy Governor of the Province. The house was built by a merchant named James Wardrop who mar-ried Lettice Lee, daughter of Phillip Lee, the progenitor of the Maryland branch of the illustrious Lee family of Westmoreland County, Va.

Their household included 32 slaves--house servants, skilled craftsmen and field hands who worked in the house, outbuildings, gar-dens and at Mr. Wardrop’s store. The 15-room Georgian mansion centered a complex

that included eight brick outbuildings, ornamental and vegetable gardens, orchards, livestock, and an 18th c. un-derground brick burial vault--one of only two in Maryland.

Exhumed with the assistance of forensic anthropologists from the Smithsonian’s Museum of Natural History, mito-chondrial DNA proved that three of the nine remains were Lettice Lee, her brother, and sister. Numerous cavities and slight arthritis suggest that they lived a sedentary lifestyle featuring a sugar-rich diet and light workload.

Darnall’s Chance 14800 Governor Oden Bowie Dr. Upper Marlboro, MD 20772301-952-8010Open Fri. & Sun. noon to 4:00. Tues.-Thurs. (by appt.)http://history.pgparks.com/sites_and_museums/Darnall_s_Chance_House_Museum.htm

Directions to Darnall’s Chance: From D.C., drive east on Suitland Parkway or Pennsylvania Ave. (Highway 4). Take the Old Crain Hwy. exit. Turn left and follow signs for Upper Marlboro. From Main St., turn left onto Elm St. and the mansion will be on your left.

Surratt House was built in 1852 as a middle-class farm house for John and Mary Surratt and is infamously con-nected to the assassination of President Abraham Lincoln. During the decade before the Civil War began, the house served as a tavern and hostelry, a polling place, and the “Surrattsville” post office. During the War, it was a safe house in the Confederate underground system which flour-ished in Southern Maryland.

Surratt Tavern was a hub of secessionist activ-ity. Like most of their neighbors, the Surratts were slaveholders. In the presidential election that year, Abraham Lincoln garnered only one vote in Prince George's County.

After her husband died and her sons joined the Confeder-ate Army, Mary Surratt rented the farm home and moved to their second home at 541 H Street in Washington in which she opened a boardinghouse. It would prove to be a fateful (and fatal) move.

On the night of April 14, 1865, John Wilkes Booth shot President Lincoln at Ford's Theatre. Breaking his leg in a leap from the presidential box onto the stage, Booth fled the city. Meeting up with a cohort, Booth rode straight to the Surrattsville home to retrieve items that had been left there earlier. Booth was killed by federal troops surrounding a barn in Caroline County, Virginia, where he was hiding.

Mary Surratt, was arrested, tried, and convicted of con-spiring with Booth and sentenced to death by the military court. On July 7, 1865, Mary Elizabeth Jenkins Surratt became the first woman executed by the United States gov-ernment. Scholars continue to debate the guilt or innocence of Mary Surratt. At Surratt House, costumed guides tell the story of this epic period in American history.

Both homes are operated and maintained by the Prince George’s County Department of Parks and Recreation. You can easily see both within three hours. I recommend tour-ing on Sunday when both homes are open. Admission Fee for each house is Adults $3; Seniors $2.

Surratt House9118 Brandywine Rd.Clinton, MD 20735(301) 868-1121Open Wed.-Friday 11-2:30. Sat-Sun. 12-3:30.http://history.pgparks.com/sites_and_museums/Sur-ratt_House_Museum.htm

Directions to Surratt House from Darnall’s Chance (about 10 miles): Drive west on Highway 4 and exit at Hwy. 223 (Woodyard Rd.). Drive 3.5 miles to the house at 9118 Brandywine Rd., Clinton, MD 20735.

Culinary Byways

Historic Homes of Two Eras

By CiCi Williamson

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Culinary Exhibits in New York, Miami, and Washington, D.C.By Claudia Kousoulas

Claudia Kousoulas is an urban planner who also writes cookbook reviews. Her blog is appetiteforbooks.wordpress.com

This summer, museums discovered culinary history. From New York to Miami, foodways were explored in artifacts and exhibits.

Our Global KitchenThe most extensive exhibit was Our Global Kitchen at New York’s Museum of Natural History which took a

global approach to food-ways through time. It is an ambitious range, briskly covered, beginning with the dichotomies that make food a fruitful way of exploring the world.

Food is ordinary and ex-traordinary, abundant and scarce, global and local, essential and challenging. The exhibit compared the ways we produce food from diversified farming in Kenya to urban agriculture in Brazil. A diorama of a pre-Cortes Aztec market, selling chiles, tomatoes, maize, chayote, and maguey cactus is contrasted with our contemporary food chain-that makes it economical for us to eat New Zealand lamb.

But even along that sophisti-cated production and trade chain, food is wasted. In the west, a family of four

throws out 1,656 pounds of food every year, and the aver-age supermarket throws out $2,300 worth of food every day. Poor societies also waste food, by harvesting too early or producing food not worth harvesting.

But what we do with food is what makes it interesting. A simple display of “What’s for Breakfast?” shows cultural diversity, from vegemite in Australia to beans and natto in Japan. And through time, we can pull up a seat at Jane Austen’s table to partake in molded ices and French wine, or dine at Livia Drusilla’s ancient Roman table.

Modern Meals: Remaking American Foods from Farm to Kitchen More focused is the Wolfsonian’s exhibit in Miami Beach of Modern Meals: Remak-ing American Foods from Farm to Kitchen. The Wolfsonian draws its exhibits from its own col-lections of media, industrial design, and ephemera, using these objects to tell stories. This story is technol-ogy as a disruptive or harmonious force, ranging from Cater-pillar tractor advertis-ing cards of amber waves of grain ready to be efficiently harvested to an artist’s print of a family displaced from corn fields that are bristling with electrical towers.

Other exhibit pieces include exhortative war posters—link-ing guns and butter as a patriotic imperative—and market-ing pieces that changed our notion of certain foods—re-positioning corn as a food for all Americans, not just poor ones.

And 11 years after installing Julia Child’s kitchen in the Na-tional Museum of American History, the Smithsonian has revamped the exhibit, incorporating it into Food: Transform-ing the American Table, 1950-2000.

In a sense, the Smithsonian picks up where the Wolfsonian leaves off. The privations of World War II are past and industrialization has fully taken hold—from the innovation of supermarket carts to TV dinners. It’s time for the pendu-lum to swing back and the exhibit traces the rise of ethnic diversity at the American table, the resurgence of Califor-nia wines, and the growth of food as a cultural signifier.

The New York and Miami exhibits have closed, but all three can be visited online:

www.amnh.org/our-global-kitchenwww.wolfsonian.org/explore/exhibitions/modern- meals-remaking-american-foods-farm-kitchenwww.americanhistory.si.edu/exhibitions/food

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Upcoming EventsThe Election Day

Pie law is talked about in the Sioux Falls, SD Argus Leader newspaper and in a 2002 book by Pascale LeDraoulec, "Ame The Election

News of Our MembersAnn Chandonnet’s book, Colonial Kitchens, was recently published by Shire Publications. www.shirebooks.com

Amy Riolo’s recipe for a soup that is often served as the first course of the sunset meal during Rama-dan appeared in The Washington Post, July 24. [email protected]

Fall for the Book FestivalGeorge Mason University September 24-29. Free

Culinary program: Thursday, September 26, 6 to 9 p.m.Hylton Performing Arts Center on GMU’s Prince William Campus. www.fallforthebook.org

A 6 p.m. panel discussion features memoirist Forrest Pritchard, author of Gaining Ground; restaurateurs Todd Gray and Ellen Kassoff Gray, authors of The New Jewish Table;

bakery co-owner Norman Davis; Virginia Tech editors Krista Gallagher and Kris Shoels; Market Salamander’s Dave LeFeve and novelist Claudia LeFeve; blogger Michael Stein; Washington Post food and travel editor Joe Yonan; and authors Peter and Laura Zeranski. The panel is followed by cooking demonstra-tions, tastings, and book sales and signings from 7-9 p.m.

5th annual Farm Tour

Market Street, Charlottesville, VA 22903Monday, September 2 (10:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.) [email protected]

Market Central's 5th annual “Meet Yer Eats Farm Tour” takes place on Labor Day, and is your chance to visit 19 growers from the Charlottesville City Markets. Venture into the beautiful Central Virginia countryside to see some incredible small farms in action. Purchase a car pass online or at the market, and peruse the website to plan your route. Then load up the car, and tour the farms that you want to see, on your own schedule. Car passes are $15 in advance, and went on sale August 1.

Maryland’s Best Ice Cream Trail Open for 2013Locations across Marylandhttp://marylandsbest.net/pdf/IceCreamTrailBrochure.pdf

Eight dairy farms that operate creameries make up the Ice Cream Trail. As Maryland’s third largest agricultural commodity, milk and dairy products accounted for more than $188 million in farm receipts in 2012. The eight farms on the trail stretch over more than 290 miles from Ocean City in the east to Washington County in the west. Farms on the Trail are: Broom’s Bloom Dairy (Harford County); Chesa-peake Bay Farms (Worcester County); Misty Meadows Farm Creamery (Washington County); Prigel Fam-ily Creamery (Baltimore County); Rocky Point Creamery (Frederick County); South Mountain Cream-

ery (Frederick County); and Keyes Creamery (Aberdeen).

The Election Day

Pie law is talked about in the Sioux Falls, SD Argus Leader newspaper and in a 2002 book by Pascale Le-Draoulec, "Ame The Election Day Pie law is talked about in the Sioux Falls, SD Argus Leader newspaper and in a 2002 book by Pascale LeDraoulec, “American Pie: Slices of Life (and Pie) from America’s Back Roads”Harper Collinsrican Pie: Slices of Life (and Pie) from America's Back Roads," Harper Collins.

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CHoW 2013-2014Board of Directors

PresidentKaty Hayes(301) [email protected]

Vice PresidentSheilah Kaufman(301) [email protected]

Recording SecretaryBeverly Firme(301) [email protected]

Membership SecretaryQuentin Looney(202) [email protected]

TreasurerStacey FitzSimmons(301) [email protected]

DirectorClaudia Kousoulas(301) [email protected]

DirectorBruce Reynolds(703) [email protected]

Past President CiCi Williamson(703) [email protected]

Editorial Positions

CHoW Line EditorDianne Hennessy King(703) [email protected]

CHoW Line DesignerCiCi Williamson(703) [email protected]

Website CoordinatorKatherine Livingston (202) [email protected]

DIRECTIONS TO THE MEETINGCHoW/DC usually meets on the second Sunday of each month, September through May, from 2:30-4:30 p.m. at the Bethesda-Chevy Chase Services Center, 4805 Edgemoor Lane, Bethesda, Maryland.

DIRECTIONS: Bethesda-Chevy Chase Services Center is located at 4805 Edgemoor Lane in downtown Bethesda, Maryland, in the two-story County office building on the plaza level of the Metropolitan complex, above a County parking garage. The building is across the street from the Bethesda Metro station.

From the Metro Station, take the escalator from the bus bay to the plaza level, turn left, walk past the clock tower and across to the Metropolitan plaza using the pedestrian bridge. The Center’s street entrance at 4805 Edgemoor Lane (corner of Old Georgetown and Edgemoor) is marked with American and Montgomery County flags. Take the elevator to Level Two for meeting rooms.

If you are coming south on Old Georgetown Road (from the Beltway use exit 36) turn right on Woodmont Avenue - the entrance is the second driveway on the left.

If you are coming south on Wisconsin Avenue/Rockville Pike, turn right onto Woodmont Avenue, go south for approximately one mile, cross over Old Georgetown Road, and the parking garage entrance is the second driveway on your left.

Coming north on Wisconsin or west on Rt. 410, take Old Georgetown Road north, turn left at the second traffic light (Woodmont Ave.) and the garage entrance will be on your left. Take the elevators from the parking garage to the plaza level (P). The building is located at the center of the plaza. The American flag, Montgomery County flag, and the County seal mark the entrance to the building.

PARKING: Parking is free on weekends in the county parking garage. The entrance to the parking garage is marked with a large blue Bethesda Center parking sign.

8 CHoW Line

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CULINARY HISTORIANS OF WASHINGTON, D.C.

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CHoW/DC Membership Form

CHoW/DC Membership Form

[ ] Renewal. No changes to contact information or culinary interests listed on the current roster. Please print name and city of residence only. Name(s) _________________________________________________ City __________________

[ ] Renewal with new or changed information; print below.[ ] New membership. Please provide all information requested (for use on the printed roster mailed to members only).

Contact Information and Interests This data will be included on the Membership Roster. Please print.

Name(s) ________________________________________________________________Street Address __________________________________________________________City, State Zip __________________________________________________________Work phone _________________________Home phone _______________________Cell phone __________________________ Fax _______________________________ E-mail ______________________________________ Culinary Web site _______________________________________________________Culinary Interests ________________________________________________________

Membership Dues (Membership year is September 1 to August 31) Membership including e-mailed color PDF file of CHoW Line newsletters. ($25) _______ Individual, Household or Organization OR

Membership including printed black/white copies of CHoW Line via U.S. postal service AND via email as a full color PDF file.

($35) _______ Individual, Household or Organization

Today’s date _________________________________ Bring this form to a meeting with cash or a check made payable to CHoW/DCor mail (checks only) to CHoW’s Treasurer: Stacey Fitzsimmons, 4711 Langdrum Lane, Chevy Chase, MD 20815