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WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK.

SAPO

ELIXIR

A Safe Chemical Cleaner

lOc, 15c and 25c Bottles- Half Gallon 75c,

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Sold by Druggists and Department Stores

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POLITURA CHEMICAL CO.

3555 Olive Street

ST. LOUISJOHN H. SMITHERS, Mfg. Chemist.

MAIN 2355


Lindell 71 Lindell 2265


^SOLD BY

Weidel Ladies' Tailoring College Co

3838 OLIVE STREETST. LOUIS, MO.

PRICE, $1.50

Where garments are purchased readymade, it will olttimes save its

cost in the alteration of asingle skirt.

HIS levice is something that every

home. Tiresome fitUngs and rcfif.ings

Parisian Gauge. Six minutes is all that

perfectly so that its length is uniform and the

floor at all points. There

so important as seeing that ti

place than in another, and al

ing than the number of fittings

results. What a delightful relief and pi.

in one short fitlii

man bhould have In her

e avoided by usmg the

necessary to hang your

distance from the

It

Will

Last

ALife

TimePatentedJuly 17,

1906.

10 feature in the making of a skirt

bottom does not hang lower in one

same time no'hing more discourag

often necessary to secure sahsfactory

t experience to accomphsh

result 'hat heretofore ofttimes has been impossible in three or four fittings of from 20 minutes to

three-quarters of an hour each

The secret of the immense popularity which this Gauge enjoys is due to a narrow eight-mch arm, curved in

conformity with the natural drop of the smrt over which the hem is easily turned and pinned as the person turnsaround. This arm is raised or lowered on the graduated upright rod lo any height desired. When one hip is larger

than the other, as is singularly true of most women, the use of the Gauge is here keenly appreciated, as no error canpossibly result, inasmuch as you are measuring from the floor up and the skirt must bt an equal distance from the

carpet at all points, front, sides and back.

There is no chalk used with the Parisian Gauge. The employment of chalk or crayon has always beenhighly objectionable for several excellent reasons: ( 1 ) Crayon must be used with caution on some goods as it is often-

times extremely difficult of removal. (2) Chalk marks are practically indistinguishable on white goods. <3) How-ever, the real shortcoming lies in the fact that it is with extreme rarity that you do not have to go over your skirts three

or four times before obtaining anything like satisfactory results. The reason is obvious: A woman being fitted will

invariably settle to one side, so to speak; she throws her weight on one limb, and Just as sure as she does, just so sure

will the dress goods approach nearer the floor on the side on which she lowers the hip. In chalking that side of the

skirt bottom you will find that in assuming an erect position, the skirt being drawn up will carry your crayon markhigher than you intended. This technique we have just descrilxd is very faulty and should never be employed.

What is toprevent a woman settling, as you say, with the Parisian Gauge? In the first place, the bottom of

the skirt is firmly fixed by being pinned over the curved arm, which eflfectually prevents the bottom of the skirt fromdescending any lower; consequently should she incline to the side, as is so often the case, her faulty position is instantly

ufested in the sudden bagginess or looseness of the skirt between the hip and the hem you are turning (bottom

remaining FIXED, while the hip descends, shortens the distance tsetween

the two points, the hip and the arm, with the resulting bagging). Her

position, therefore, may be corrected instantly. The Parisian Gauge is

ensable for home dressmaking as the sewing machine. Children's garments

autifully hung with the Gauge, as the curved arm may be raised to any height from the floor.

This Gauge is handsomely nickel plated and enameled and is an ornament to the sewing

It is 10 inches high, graduated in V2 and 1 inch scales; weighs about 2 pounds, and will not

tip over while in use.

^


Copyrighted by Weidel Ladies'

Tailoring College Co., 1914.

WBIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK.

WEIDEL'S

INSTRUCTION BOOKFOR

Those Using WeideFs Combined Tailor Square and Curves

A COMPLETE TREATISE

ON

Drafting Ladies^ and Children's Garments by the

Square and Curves Combined

By J. A. WEIDEL.ST. LOUIS, MO.

1914

WEIUEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK.

^kt^

The drafts herein contained are mostly foundation

drafts, as we thought it best not to give many fancy

drafts. As the styles are continually changing and webelieve it best for the beginner to learn to draft a

good FOUNDATION and then make such changes as

often as the style demands.

)CU4(I6781

JUL 19 1915


TABLE OF CONTENTS— (Second Edition),

Taking- Measures by the WEIDEJ. aYSTKM 11 to

Impoltaiit to all who use WKIDEL SYSTEMHow to make a Sweep

,^Rules

f^ Draft No. 1. Instructions for drafting Shirt Waist... 16

(V Draft No. 50. Changes for Over-Erect Form IS

5<r-. Draft No. 51. Changes for Stooping Round-Shouldered^--5 Form 20

^ Draft No. r,:!. Ladies' Shirt Pattern 22

V Draft No. 53. Japanese Kimono with Straight Front

1^and Back 24

Draft No. 54. Kimono Waist with Set-in Sleeve 26 tc

Draft No. 55. Middy Blouse 30

Draft No. 56. Four-Piece Princess Slip 32 tc

Draft No. 57. One-Piece Coat 36

raft No. 5!). Semi-Fitting Coat, with Seamsarmhole

raft No. 611. Eaton .Jacket with dart on shoul

Draft No. 61.

Draft No. 62.

Draft No. 63.

Draft No. 64.

Draft No. 65.

Draft No. 66.

Draft No. 67.

Draft No. 68.

Dra"ft No. 69.

Draft No. 70.

Draft No. 71.

Draft No. 72.

Draft No. 73.

Draft No. 74.

Draft No. 75.

Draft No. 76.

Draft No. 77.

Draft No. 7S.

of47

Kimono Coat 4S to 51

Peg-Top Skirt with 2 draperies 52-53

Two and Three-Piece Skirt 54-55

Four and Five-Gore Skirt 56-57

Six and Seven-Gore Skirt 58-59

Plain Drawer Pattern 60-61

Mar 5h Sle .62-63

Sleeve for One-Piece Coat 64-65

Ladies' Shirt Sleeve 64-65

One-Piece Sleeve, with Dart below Elbow. 66-67

Shirtwaist Sleeve with Small Top 66-67

Fancy Flat Sailor Collar 68-69

Turndown Collar for Short-Neck Person. 68-69

High Rolling Collar 70-71

Crush Collar 70-71

Standing Collar 70-71

Neck Band 70-71

TABLE OF CONTENTS— (First Edition).

Draft No. 2.

Draft No. 3.

Draft No. 4.

Draft No. .").

Draft No. 6.

Draft No. 7.

Draft No.

Draft No.

Draft No.

Draft No.

Draft No.

Draft No.

Draft No.

Draft No.

Tight Waist or Princess 7\ to S2

Special Measure Sheet 83

Tight Waist with Bias Dart andStraight Front 84 to 87

Tight Waist with 2 underarm piecesfor large forms 88 to 92

Tight-fitting Coat with Curved Front. .92 to 96

A WORD ABOUT OUR COLLEGE 97

gemi-Fitting or Half-Fitting Coat. . .98 to 101

Double-Breasted Box Coat with ShawlCollar 102 to 104

AGENTS WANTED EVERYWHERE 105

CHANGES FOR STOOPING AND OVER-ERECT FORMS 106 to 109

Single-Breasted Prince Chap Coat .. 106 to 109

Waist for Small Child 110

Child's Sleeve

Tight-fltting Sleeve

Bishop Sleeve Small Top

Bell or Wing Sleeve with Small Toi

Shirtwaist Sleeve

Mutton Sle

Draft No.

10 WIOIDKI/S INSTRUCTION J300K.

J. A. WEIDELAuthor and Inventor

The Author in presenting this, his second edition, has the points numbered instead of

lettered, which enables one to readily find any certain point desired in the instructions given.

This i)lan has advantages over the lettered plan, and we believe will meet Avith ap-

proval, especially by those who prefer the numbered plan. The student will readily see ad-

vantages and the simplicity by which one can find any given point. In the second edition many

new points are brought out that will enable the student to produce any of the prevailing

styles, no matter how often they may change, as the lines given in both the First and Second

ciition are suited for the SLENDER FORM AS WELL AS THE STOUT FIGURE.

By giving the TWO editions in one book, the cutter can find the various lines used as

styles may change.

For the cutter who prefers a short-measure system of producing a pattern, either for

Custom Tailoring or READY-TO-WEAR TRADE, we advise using WEIDEL 'S SELF-BALANCING AND SELF-GRADING METHOD of DRAFTING, which is the result of manyyears ' experimenting by the Author. This method adapts itself to the different variations of

the form, no matter how large or small, or what their attitude may be. (See Draft No. 78).

A trial will convince the advanced student, as well as the beginner, that it will produce a

well-balanced pattern either for the ERECT, NORMAL or STOOPING FORMS.

The student wall find many new ideas in tliis edition, that do not require a set of

GRADED SCALES, but a few simple measures will produce any size pattern desired. THEAVEIDEL SYSTEM used for producing these patterns, does not require any FREE-HANDDRAWING, the square does the FIGURING, and with the lettered and numbered curves on

the square one can make any desired curve with a LEAD PENCIL.

WEIDEL 'S COMBINED TAILOR' SQUARE AND CURVES is the invention of the

Author, and is the result of many years' experience in using garment drafting devices, and all

who study the contents of this book and system used for producing same, will derive muchbenefit therefrom.

J. A. WEIDEL, The Author.

WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 11

LONG-SIDE-HEASURE

Taking Measures by Weidel's System.To the bcjiiiiiK'r, as well as the experienced,

we achase all measures to be taken vdih muchcare, being careful not to draw tape line too

tight, or leave it too loose. Measures shouldbe taken over a soft waist, not a starched orstiff one. See that the person is properly cor-

seted.

First place a narrow strap with bucklearound waist and draw strap to tightness the

band is to be. See that it follows natural waist-

line.

Begin by taking all the round measures first,

standing back of person.

Neck—Taken around the neck-band.Bust—Over the fullest part of bust in front,

and up high in back over fullest part of shoul-

der blades, not too tight or loose.

Waist—Just above the strap at waist-line.

Hip—Around the hip about 5 inches below thestrap in front, and 6 inches at side and back,keeping on a level with floor.

Long-Side—From waist-line or bottom of strapon left side on a line with front of armhole,around to back of neck, then down to waist-

line on right side to bottom of strap. (In ap-

plying this measure, use only half of the

measure on draft).

Over-Shoulder, Right Side—From waist-line in

back, over the shoulder, touching a point

about 2 inches from end of shoulder, thendown to waist line in front. (Always draft

by the highest side).

Over-Shoulder, Left Side—Taken in same man-ner as right side, from waist-line in back to

waist-line in front. (Do not take these meas-ures over the fullest part of bust).

12 WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK.

DEPTH OF ARMHOI.E.

LONG-BACK-MEASURE

Long-Back—From waist-line about 3 inches

from center back on left side up side of neck,

ai'ound front of neck, then down right side to

waist-line in back.

Height of Bust—From front of neck to fullest

part of bust.

Length of Front—From front of neck to bot-

tom of strap or waist-line.

Width of Chest—From armhole to armhole,about 4 inches down from neck.

Under-Arm Measure—From pit or level of

armhole down to bottom of strap at waist-

line ; be careful and not get it too long.

Depth of Armhole—Place 60-inch end of tapemeasure mider left arm, as high up as it will

go, then bring it straight across back andunder right arm, keeping tape measure onlevel with bottom of armholes, and while in

this position measure from collar-bone down

to top of tape line.

Length of Back—From collar bone at l)ack of

neck to bottom of strap at waist line.

Width of Back—From armhole to armhole,across back about half way between the topof shoulder and bottom of armhole. Be care-

ful not to get this measure too narrow. Youcannot depenrl on the waist the person is

wearing. If incfci-icd, the width of back canbe taken as lollows: Place a pencil undereach arm and measure from one to the other;in applying it on draft use this measure onbust line 5, but do not deduct the inch.

Length of Shoulder—From collar-bone at backof neck down to point of shoulder, being caicful not to take this measure past the shoulderpoint.

Armhole—Around armhole about ] inch frdiii

point of shoulder.


BUST

Around Elbow—Around olbow with arm slight-

.ly bent to give ease.

Around the Hand—Over fullest part of liand,

thumb and all.

Inseam of Sleeve—From pit of armhole to

wrist joint, with arm hanging straight down.Length of Skirt Front, Right Side, Back, Left

Side-Skirt measures are all taken from bot-

tom of strap to floor. Be sure to measureover fullest part of hip at side.

In takinj

form.

Notes.

measures alwavs make a note of

Notice if figure is round-shouldered or stooping, normal or over-erect, large in front belowwaist-line, large shoulder-blades, large hipstoward back or perhaps very flat in back belowwaist line. This latter case would indicate alargeness in front below waist-line.

Remember, you must put the goods wherethe tigure requires it.

Draft to the measures, and not to the dressover which the measures are taken. Rememberthat the Long Side and Over-Shoulder meas-ures must not be taken over the fullest part of

bust.

The Long-Side and Long-Back measures areused to determine the attitude.


OUR NEW ONE PIECE TAILOR'S SQUARE AND CURVES COMBINED

Important to All Who Use Weidel's

Square and Curves.

In using' tliis system, first familiarize your-self with the letters and numbers used in mak-ing the different curves. Then notice the ar-rangement of the divisions on the division, orarrow side of square, which are used to quicklydivide any given number used in drafting ail

kinds of garments ; thus doing away with fig-

uring usually required in systems or draftingmachines.

On the hand or face side of square the inchesare arranged so you measure from either endwithout turning the square around. The centerrow (see large figures) begin at left-hand endof square. The small figures at bottom row arehalf-inches. Then along the right-hand end youwill find the division in fourths.

Line 1 on square is the first line near handrunning in the direction of long arm of square.

(See small hole near hand).

Line 2 croses 2 small holes on left-hand endof square.

Line .3 is square up from line 2, near lowerfront armhole curve.

The letters on face or hand side of square in-

dicate the different curves re((uired in garmentdrafting.

Numbers on Ijottom or arrow side indicatethe opposite curves. These curves do away withfrcr-hand drawing required by most systemsand very difficult to the beginner.

Ercrif curve is m.adf- ivith a lead pencil.

Notice—Use square with hand or arrow])ointing as indicated. The hand is on the faceside, and tlic ai-row on the bottom or divisionsidr, of s(|u;n-c.

_Wlicii divisions ai-e refcnvd to in draft, find

size wanted in the division nicntioiicd, thus: If

a draft reads 'I'l in 4ths, dy waist iiicasui-c in

4ths, find 22 in the division of 4ths on ri/ilif-

Jtand end of square. Thus you can readily find

number in whatever division you desire withoutthe difficult figuring usuallv re(iuired.

How to Make a Sweep.Sweeps are used more or less in all drafting.First sew a loop IV.' inches long in the 60-inch

end of tape measure.Now place pencil jDoint in loop and hold with

right hand at point from which you wish thesweep to begin; also hold tape in left hand at

pivoting point; now make sweep forward orback as per instructions.


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Weidel's Self-Balancing and Self-Grading Method

Copyright May 1, 1914, by Weidel Ladies' Tailoring College Co

74 WEIUEL'SINSTIUTCTIOK 1500K.

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Wl-JIDEJ/S INSTIIL'CTION BOOK. 75

Weidel's Self-Balancing and Self-Grading Method

Copyright May 1. 1914, by Weidel Ladies' Tailoring College Co.


72—Prom 71 is I14 inclics. P ciu-ve at .'Ui,

curve through 72 to V on sciuni-c.

73—From 72 is I14 inches.

74—From 73 is 2 inches, or width desired.

J curve at 74, cui've to 66.

75—Left-hand corner of square at 73, longarm touching 69, square up and make 75, oneand one-lialf inches, or width desired.

24 curve at 75, curve to 7(1.

Notice—Proportion Front length sliould l)e

about li/. inches more than back length to waistline.

For every inch the front is shorter thanback length, raise dot 22 one-fourth of theamount. Example—If back is 17 and front 14,

raise 22 one-foufth of the amount, which is %inch. For every inch the front is longer thanthe proportion front, lower dot 22 one-fourththe amount.

1 HE drafts herein contained are mostly foun-

dation drafts, as we thought it best not to give

many fancy drafts. As the stjdes are continually

changing and Ave lielieve it best foi* the beginner

to learn to draft a good FOUNDATION and then

make such changes as often as the style demands.


PREFACEIn placing this invention before tlie pul)lic we desire to say for tlie benefit of the inex-

perienced as well as the experienced, the drafts and diagrams given herein are based onactual measure and proportion combined.

We have endeavored wherever possible to use actual measure and apply same on

draft as taken on person. The lines and curves are placed according to style; and best judg-

ment of the inventor, and should anyone prefer to place dilferent lines from those given, this

can be done according to the individual taste and not affect the fitting points as lon^ as the

location of the frame work and measurements are not changed.

It is not our intention to give many fancy drafts in this edition, as the tlat foundation

draft is the basis of all styles of garments, and all fancy patterns are taken from them. Forthis reason we deem it ad\'isable for the student to learn to produce a PERFECT-FITTING-FOUNDATION before attempting to take up the more advanced studii>s.

The drafts are the results of many years' experience with \'arious actual measure sys-

tems, and have been thoroughly tested on forms of all sizes and shapes. The AUTHOR hav-

ing done his own fitting had the advantage of seeing the results of his own jjatterns, thus gain-

ing tile aetnal experience every successful cutter so much desires.

By constantly working with different systems and drafting patterns of all kinds wemust gain the knowledge we need and sinii)lify our work to save time, which means nuich to

all who wish to succeed in any profession or trade.

It should be every ambitious person's desire to overcome difficulties which, are boundto come up in every line of work, and especially so in designing women 's garments, as the

styles are constantly changing.

To be a successful cutter or designer you MUST STUDY and improve not only in yourown discoveries, but learn all you can from every publication that will advance your interest.

The wide-awake cutter will readily grasp any good points that will further his interest; re-

member, Ave often learn from our students.

Some prefer to the longest route to obtain the same results, but to the more progressive

person who desires to advance with the times, we believe this invention will be of interest,

as the SQUARE AND CURVES being combined in one piece simplifies matters and producesmore graceful curves in much less time than c:in be obtained in the usual frfM> hand methods,

as no gui(h' lines are required, as is customary in the old way.

By this invention the person of average intelligence can learn to draft and design in

half the time usually required and the lines are as perfect as the most experienced could

produce.

By carefully studying each and every draft as given the ambitious cutter who is inter-

ested in the advancement of the science of garment cutting, will l)e more than rewarded withthe results obtained.

From the foundation di-afts herein given you can i)r(

ter how often the styles may change, as the flat draft is the

We hope all who study its pages will find food for

rapidly improve with more experience.

J. A. WEIDEL, The Authoi

Copyrighted by Weidel & WebsterTailoring College, January, 1910

luc<

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SPECIAL MEASURE SHEETTo use cut out the squares and write through the holes.

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A Word About Our CollegePupils desiring to do their own sewing or make garments for others can do so at the following

rates. We teach every branch of Dressmaking and Ladies' Tailoring. Each pupil receives individual

instructions, no classes formed.

You can begin at any time. College open the entire year. Instructions daily from 9 to 5 p. m.,

except Saturday 9 to 4.

OUR TERMSTUITION FEE ALWAYS PAYABLE IN ADVANCE

Not less than ten days sold to any pupil.FULL COURSE, either system and 45 days les-

sons, consists of instructions in Cutting, Fitt-

ing, Basting, Stitching, Pressing, Boning,

Draping and Finishing; with system for draft-

ing all kinds of ladies' and children's gar-

ments, $25.00.

TUITION is always payable in advance.

No extra charge for patterns it work is finished in school

FULL COURSE system and Instruction Book,

45 days' lessons Drafting and Sewing, $25.00

DRESS MAKERS' COURSE, 12 drafting les-

sons system and Instruction book $15.00

System and large Instruction book 10.00

10 days' lessons without system • • 5.00

Weidel Ladies' Tailoring College Co.ST. LOUIS.


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AGENTS WANTED EVERYWHERE

We appoint agents to sell and teach Weidel's Combined Tailor's Square and Curves,

and Instruction Books. Special rates to agents.

No Territory Rights Sold

Why pay for territory rights, when you can sell and teach the Weidel's System and In-

struction Books, which is the latest up-to-date system, now being used by many of the best

Dressmakers and Ladies' Tailors throughout the United States

Do You Want To Travel

Or take charge of a Branch School ? We give you a special training that will enable you to draft

any and all styles of patterns for ladies and children, no matter how large or small the measure-

ments are. We also keep you posted in all the late styles as long as you are representing us.

Some of the Many Advantages the Weidel System Has That Are Worth In-

vestigating Before Purchasing Some Other System

WE Make all the curves with a pencil, by the curves on the square. No freehand

curves required with this system.

MAKE Drafts of every style of garments, no matter how often styles may change; also

large Book of Instructions for reference.

YOUR Garments fit when drafted by the Weidel System of measurement, which adapts

itself to the different attitudes of the form.

WORK Done by this system saves the customer time, as well as yourself, as the measure-

ments produce perfect fitting garments.

A Person need not be good at figuring, as the square does the figuring and applies the

measures.

PLEASURE Awaits those who receive a thorough course in Drafting and Designing of Gar-

ments, as good cutters are always in demand at salaries from $20.00 to $50.00

per week.

106 WKIDKI/S INSTIUK^TION iJOOK.

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22 Waist 38 Hip 40 Front 41 1.. Side 41 Back

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Measures for Draft No. 2022 Waist 38 Hip 40 Front 41', Side 41 Back


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GORED SKIRTS ARE DRAFTEDAS FOLLOWS:

Noficc—In drafting goretl skirts, begin by

drawing a line at top of skirt (see line 2), tLe

length of liip measnre in halves. This line is

used to divide the skirt into the nninJMn- of

gores desired.

As the nine-gore is the fonndation for all

gored skirts, we begin as follows

:

First, determine the width of front gore de-

sired at hip line, which will depend upon the

prcvaiHng style, in this case 21/4 inches is used.

or use division that is one less than numbergores wanted; if you are drafting a nine-goredivision in eighths for front gore; then makel)ack gore one inch more than front (314 inchesin this case) ; divide the remainder into threeequal parts. This is not a fixed rule, as somecutters prefer to divide as follows: Aftermarking off the front width as above, (livi(h-

the remainder into four equal parts for a nine-

gore.

Notice—This plan of adding flare does awaywith the usual methods of tracing out patterns,thus saving imich valuable time to tlie busycutter.

Measures for Draft No. 21


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scjuai-e at AX, and long arm touching EX ; nowdraw lines 28 and 29.

"^

^iake a dot half way between AX and FX,and square up Y2 inch, then draw lines to star.

AX to GX is 1/4 inch more than AX to Z (see

dotted line).

Draw curved line 32 from A through E, H,I, N, 0, T, U, Z and GX.The space between lines 6, 7, 10, 11, 14, 15, is

thrown away and is not used in the skirt.

In cutting material all seams must be al-

lowed as the |)atterns are drafted to the exact

measurements.

Measures for Draft No. 2222 Wai8t 38 Hip 40 Front 41 1., Side 41 Back

"^^"""^^--^^~^f

132 WEIUEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK.

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^SOLD BY

Weidel Ladies' Tailoring College Co

3838 OLIVE STREET

ST. LOUIS, MO.

PRICE, $1.50

Where garments are purchased readymade, it will ofttimes save its

cost in the alteration of asingle skirt.

THIS little device is somethini that every woman should have in her

home. Tiresome fittings and refillings are avoided by ustas the

Parisian Gauge, Six minutes is all that is necessary to hang yourskirl perfectly so thai its length is uniform and the same distance from the

Boor at all poiots. There is no feature in the making of a skirt

so important as seeing that the bottom does not hang lower io oneplace than in another, and at the same time nothing more discourag-

ing than the number of (ilUngs so often necessary to secure saUsfactory

results. What a delightful relief and pleasant experience to accompUsh

It

Will

Last

Life

TimePatentedJuly 17.

1906.

four fillings of from 20 ein one short fitting a result that heretofore oftlimK has been impossible

three-quarters of an hour each.

The secret of the immense popularity which this Gauge enjoys is due to a narrow eight-inch arm, curved In

conformity with the natural drop of the skirt, over which the hem is easily turned and pinned as the person turns

around. This arm is raised or lowered on the graduated upright rod to any height desired. When one hip is larger

than the other, as is singulariy true of most women, the use of the Gauge is here keenly appreciated, as no error can

possibly result, inasmuch as you are measuring from the floor up and the skirt must tte an equal distance from the

carpet at all points, front, sides and back.

Tbere Is no clialk used with the Parisian Gauge. The employment of chalk or crayon has always been

highly objectionable for several excellent reasons: (1) Crayon must be used with caution on some goods as it is often-

times extremely difficult of removal. (2) Chalk marks are practically indistinguishable on white goods. (3) How-

ever, the real shortcoming lies in the fact that it is with extreme rarity that you do nol have to go over your skirts three

or four times before obtaining anything like satisfactory results. The reason is obvious: A woman being fitted wUI

invariably settle to one side so to speak; she throws her weight on one limb, and lust as sure as she does, just so sure

will the dress goods approach nearer the floor on the side on which she lowers the hip. In chalking that side of the

skirl bottom you will find that in assuming an erect position, the skirl being drawn up will carry your crayon mark

higher than you intended. This technique we have just described is very faulty and should never be employed.

What is to prevent a woman settling, as you say, with the Parisian Gauge? In the first place, the bottom of

the skirt is firmly fixed by being pinned over the curved arm, which effectually prevents the bottom of the skirt from

descending any lower; consequently should she incline to the side, as is so often the case, her faulty position isinstantly

nanifested in the sudden bagginess or looseness of the skirt between the hip and the hem you are turning (bottom

! FIXED, while the hip descends, shortens the distance between

points, the hip and the arm, with the resulting bagging). Her

, therefore, may be corrected instantly. The Parisian Gauge is

indispensable for home dressmaking as the sewing machine. Children's garments

Qg with the Gauge, as the curved arm may be raised to any height from thefloor.

This Gauge is handsomely nickel plated and enameled and is an ornament to the sewing

room. It is 10 inches high, graduated in «! and 1 inch scales; weighs about 2 pounds, and will nol

tip over while In use.

^

136 WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK

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'The amount to spread pattern at top de- terials it is best to spread pattern until the

pends on the wci-lit of material to be cut; on front edge of each piece is on the straight of

light-weight material it is l)est not to spread material,

pattern more than oiir iiicli, but on heavy ma- — -.

Measures for Draft No. 2422 Waist 40 Front 41 Back .3S Hip 41i._, Side

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Draw line 27 with L curve at star.

Draw line 28 Avith 9 curve at star.

I'lace rule ^A inch back of K, touching star

and draw^ line 29, 8 inches above waist line.

The third piece on bust division being 41/.

inches, place half of this amount on each side

of line 29.

Draw line 30 with K curve at star.

Draw line 31 with 8 curve at star.

Place I'ule 1 inch back of O, touching star,

and draw line 32, 8 inches above waist line.

The foui'th piece on bust division being 3%iiielies, place half on each side of line 32.

Draw line .!2 with K curve at star.

Diaw line 34 with 8 curve at star.

Scjuare line 35 through V by line 14.

S inches above V, measure forward 3 inches,

tlie width of last piece.

Draw line 36 with L curve at star.

Mark i)rincess any height above waist line

desired.

For bottom of skirt draw line 'M through

points A, E, I, M, Q, U and (,).\.

If flare is wanted add according to draft No.

22 for nine-gore skirt.

For inverted plait make same as draft No. 22

for nine-gore skirt.

For habit hack as follows

:

First mark olT inverted plait, then make U to

QX two-thirds the width of inveited plait.

PX is % inch back of S.

Draw straight line from Q.\ to PX; then

continue curved line from P.\ to V, with Acurve' at V. (See dotte.l line).

Notice—In cutting material for ]tlaiu goods

lay the front edge of each i)iece on the straiglit

of goods, for striped goods lay the center of

each gore on a stripe. All seams nmst be al-

lowed in cutting the material.

Measures for Draft No. 25Hip

140

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WEIDELVS INSTRUCTION BOOK.

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WEIDELS INSTRUCTION IJOOK. 141

no 12.

AVitli 11 curve at waist-line draw line :U intone 12.

With X ciii-ve at waist-liiic draw line ;!.) intone i:!.

With 11 curve at Avaist line draw line :i() iutdne l.-J.

With () curve at waistdine draw line 157 inton." 14.

With 12 curve at waistdike draw line oS intone U.

With () curve at waist-line draw line 89 into

line 15.

With 12 curve at waistdine draw line 40 info

line l.-j.

Xotic<—The iioods between i^ores is

usually cut out so as not to make too nuicji

thickness around hips (see lar^-e darts betweenfront pieces). Tlie seams are placed whereverthe selvedge edge comes in under a jdait. Thisdepends on the Axddth of goods.

Measures for Draft No. 2622 Waist 38 Hip 40 Front 40',. Side 41 Baok

y 8 a w 1 9 J

142 WEIDEL 'S INSTRUCTION BOOK.

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WEIUEL'S INSTKUCTION BOOK

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WETDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 145

COLLARS, CUFFS & NECK BANDS


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148WEIDEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK.

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DRAFT 40


Draft No. 40 X.Shows pattern after l)i'iiig cut and spread on

a:oods.


DRAFT 40 X

152 VVE1DEL'« INSTRLIdTiOJ^ BOOK.

WEIDELVS INSTRUCTION BOOK.

DRAFT 42

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DRAFT 45


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DRAFT 45 B


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WEIUEL'S INSTRUCTION BOOK. 159

A Word About Our CollegePupils desiring to do their own sewing or make garments for others can do so at the following

rates. We teach every branch of Dressmaking and Ladies' Tailoring. Each pupil receives individual

instructions, no classes formed.

You can begin at any time. College open the entire year. Instructions daily from 9 to 5 p. m.,

except Saturday 9 to 4.

OUR TERMSTUITION FEE ALWAYS PAYABLE IN ADVANCE

Not less than ten days sold to any pupil.FULL COURSE, either system and 45 days les-

sons, consists of instructions in Cutting, Fitt-

ing, Basting, Stitching, Pressing, Boning,

Draping and Finishing; with system for draft-

ing all kinds of ladies' and children's gar-

ments, $25.00.

TUITION is always payable in advance.

No extra charge for patterns if work is finished in school

FULL COURSE system and Instruction Book,

45 days' lessons Drafting and Sewing, $25.00

DRESS MAKERS' COURSE, 12 drafting les-

sons system and Instruction book. . . $15.00

System and large Instruction book 10.00

10 days' lessons without system • 5.00

Weidel Ladies' Tailoring College Co.ST. LOUIS.

rf^''/! INSTRUCTION BOOK FOR

W^EIDEL'S

Combined T<\iilor Square and Curves

One Piece for [Drafting every size, shape or form

]. A. WEIDELInventor

The square used by

all

mechanics

Every time

You draw a line

(You say that looks fine

Ti.) be made in such a

Shc^rt time because it was

Drafted by

WEinEL'S SQUARE AND CURVE COMBINE

You needj not make any free hand curves

Which are qu't-e trying to your nerves

And wh^n your draft is al) complete

Yo'u are delighted to know

y()u accomplished the feat

For some woi'l<J say it was made with a stencil

And wonder I'OW it could be done with a pencil

With the above invention you car "aft every style of Skirt, Coat, Waist, and Sleeve

for Ladies and Children, and follows every fashion.

WEIDEL LADIES' TAILORING COLLEGE CO.

ST. LOUIS, MO.

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

i05 Manchester Ave.

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

013 964 938 2

weidelsinstructi01weid

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