April 25, 2013

ROADTRIP TO LADAKH

TIME TO VISIT

April: High mountain passes do not open by then May: Might be tough. Army winter stocking convoys crown the roads and make it slow progress for civilian

vehicles on those narrow roads. Also, the effects of the winter have not worn off so one can expect extreme weather conditions & lots of snow especially at the passes. Expect icy roads as well

o Zoji La pass (on the Srinagar – Kargil – Leh route) opens only by late May or early Juneo Rohtang La not open yet

June: Good time to visit. If you want to see ice-capped roads and mountains enroute from Manali to Leh go no later than 01 June. Though need to confirm that Zoji La has opened by late May-June first week before traveling

o Zojila pass (on the Srinagar – Kargil – Leh route) opens only by late May or early Juneo Rohtang pass (on Manali – Leh route) opens in early June

July – August: Not a good time to visit. Snow melts creating treacherous water crossings in Ladakh and Himachal. It rains heavily in Himachal Pradesh making it difficult to cross Rohtang La (lot of slush and long traffic jams)

o Rains in August are confined to south of Rohtang. Once you're across Rohtang, heavy rains are an extreme rarity. On the Jammu - Srinagar route, there are chances of landslides around the Jawahar tunnel, but the road is cleared quite fast in such cases

September: Another good time to go – peak season (late June-July-Aug) is over in Ladakh and hotel rates come down. Weather is cool in September but not too cold. All glaciers melt by Sept and the topography is that of barren rocks. It sometimes snows in late September

ROUTE

1. Srinagar - Kargil - Padum - Kargil - Leh - Manalio Best to enter from Srinagar and exit through Manali

Climb on the Srinagar-Kargil-Leh route is slow which helps avoid AMS whereas the descent is fast through Rohtang La

Descending Rohtang La helps in driving through any potential slush on that treacherous pass (as opposed to climbing it!)

o Consider not taking the Srinagar-Kargil-Leh route till Aug 2nd due to heavy Amarnath Yatra traffic (ends on Aug 2) on the Jammu-Srinagar sector

o While the Srinagar-Kargil-Leh route is not as scenic as the Manali-Leh route, it allows one to see Tiger Hill (ref Kargil War)

o In 2011, the Srinagar-Kargil-Leh route opened on May 5th. In 2012, the Srinagar-Kargil-Leh route opened on April 25th. Manali-Leh was not open as yet

o Srinagar-Kargil:

April 25, 2013

Srinagar: Stay near Dal Lake, on Boulevard Road. It is a good location since that is the road you will

take for the onward journey to Sonmarg & Kargil and is comparatively safe too Also need to factor in volatility in Srinagar. One way to counter it is to not stay at Srinagar

but perhaps at Sonmarg which further down the road towards Kargil. August 15 th spent in Srinagar can be good and bad – good because security would be at its peak and bad because there could be restrictions on travel / curfew if trouble is anticipated

Advice by HVK: To go to Srinagar, the best route remains (NH1) Delhi-Ambala-Ludhiana-Jalandhar - (NH1A)-Pathankot-Jammu-Udhampur-Patnitop-Jawahar Tunnel-Qazigund-Srinagar. Prefer the Jaipur-Behror-Rewari-Delhi-Panipat-Ambala route. Can also turn off at Kishangarh and take the Bhatinda highway via Ladnun, Ratangad, Sardarshahr, Hanumangarh, Abohar, Moga & Jalandhar to avoid both Jaipur & NCR. The Bhatinda highway is a newly-developed SH and has lesser facilities compared with the NH1 through Delhi. Recommend taking Bhilwara-Kishangarh-Makrana-Ladnun-Ratangad-Sardarshahr-Rewatsar-Hanumangarh-Abohar-Fazilka-Ferozepur-Taran Taran-Amritsar (help avoid Jaipur, NCR & the under-widening NH1 totally)

Sonmarg: Preferable to plan such that you leave your prior destinations such that you can halt at

Sonmarg rather than Srinagar It will put you in very good position for next day’s start towards Zoji La and Kargin and it’s

much safer as well Zoji La:

Pass opens only by late May. It is closed on Monday’s for traffic. Though can expect disruptions every time it snows in May/June

Check post timings at Sonmarg for convoy going towards Zoji La are at 8:30am and 2pm. These sometimes change according to the traffic rush. Keep this in mind while timing your departure from Sonmarg

Other reports suggest: When getting to Zoji La, please ensure that you reach Sonmarg before ~10.30am. The army control releases the trucks at exactly 11am and they clog up the entire route. Private cars and jeeps are released 15-20 mins before the trucks and you must be on your way at this time. Whatever you do, don't hit that road after the trucks have been released. They will clog the road for tens of kilometers and god forbid if one breaks down. Traffic restrictions are in place when volume is heavy. When traffic volume is light, these restrictions usually vanish

If you are going from Leh to Srinagar via Zoji La timing for traffic flowing towards Srinagar is 6-9am only. The line-up at Minmarg to enter Zoji La from Leh side starts at 5am and the barrier will only be lifted at 6am till 9am (towards Sonmarg)

These timing restrictions prevail at the beginning of the season after which they are relaxed

Try to cover Zojila before dark, so you don't miss Tiger Hill (After Zojila War Memorial/before Drass town)

Team-BHP post dated 13 June 2012 by BunnyPunia: I did Zoji La on 2nd June and it was too bad then too. Today reached Manali and as per my observations:

April 25, 2013

o Zoji La - The worst with uneven surfaces. Even Tempo Traveler and Mistubishi Outlanders had under belly hits.

o Kardung La - South Pullu to North Pullu is bad and mainly due to uneven roads.o Chang La - The second worst pass. Was snowing the day I crossed and again uneven

roads 15 kms on either sides of the pass.o Tanglang La - Road surface was good but had to drive through two feet of slush. I'll

say the third difficult pass.o Rohtang La - Mix of water crossings, slush and uneven roads but nothing extreme. No

more Zing Zing Nalla (A bridge has been built) and now the entire Srinagar-Leh-Manali road can be done in day or night if you are familiar with the roads. No serious water crossings anywhere in Ladakh.

o Interesting finds: I did find Honda city, Optra and even Chevy Cruze doing Manali - Leh road today and saw a Skoda Laura in Leh yesterday.

Kargil: Kargil has better hotels than Lamayuru in terms of considering which place to stop at

between Srinagar and Leh Kargil has a Mahindra Authorized Service Station and Petrol pump

o Kargil-Zanskar Valley-Kargil: o Kargil-Leh:

This is an 8-hour drive at the fastest Better to do this drive over a day in order to have time to enjoy the landscape and some

places to see: Tiger Hill, Mulbek, Lamayuru, Nimmu sangam point, Magnetic Hill, Shanti Stupao Leh - Manali:

Rohtang La: Rohtang La opens in early June It is closed on Tuesdays for traffic from 11am to 4pm for maintenance. This restriction is

only for Rohtang-bound vehicles from Manali. Route is always open for vehicles coming from Leh/Keylong side

Some other reports suggest that sometimes in the year the road is shut from 9am to 12 noon daily for maintenance

If returning from Leh good to time trip such that you cross Rohtang on a Tuesday and thereby avoid the tourist traffic and jams caused by cabs coming from Manali

If there are rainy conditions and roads are slushy then 2WD vehicles may find it really tough to cross Rohtang Pass

HVK’s advice: Last 2 years' (2010 and 2011) experience has been very negative. 2WD did not stand much chance crossing Rohtang, many had to be towed out of the bad stretches around Rani Nullah. In first week of Sep ’12 there was 1 foot deep slush at Rohtang

In mid-July 2011, there were landslides in Rohtang due to rains Avoiding Rohtang La:

While coming back if you do Tso Moriri-Tso Kar-NH21-Sarchu then you will not have to climb Tanglang La but will still drive through Moreh Plains

April 25, 2013

While coming back from Leh on the Leh-Manali highway, one can avoid Rohtang Pass. From Gramphoo, 15 kms before Rohtang Pass, you turn off the Manali road and go directly to Kaza. It will be difficult to drive from Sarchu and reach Kaza the same day, it is best you target Keylong the previous day so that with an early start, you can reach Kaza by night. There are no facilities for food or stay between Keylong & Kaza. Please be warned that this road will be very bad in June, expect water crossings to be treacherous in the latter part of the day.

2. Srinagar - Kargil - Leh - Kargil - Srinagaro Makes no sense to do the same stretch for to and fro journey

3. Manali - Rohtang – Tandi - Keylong - Sarchu - Leh - Manali o Manali-Leh route is the most challenging but also most beautifulo In 2011, Manali-Leh route opened by June 5th or so until Nov 30. However, the Manali-Leh highway is

officially kept open until Oct 30th usuallyo AMS:

There is a very high chance of AMS setting in since the ascent from Manali (at 3500ft) to Sarchu (at 13000ft) is very quick

Do the Manali-Leh stretch over 3 days in order to assist with better acclimatizationo Manali - Rohtang La:

Rohtang La: Rohtang La opens in early June It is closed on Tuesdays for traffic from 11am to 4pm for maintenance. This restriction is

only for Rohtang-bound vehicles from Manali. Route is always open for vehicles coming from Leh/Keylong side

Some other reports suggest that sometimes in the year the road is shut from 9am to 12 noon daily for maintenance

If returning from Leh good to time trip such that you cross Rohtang on a Tuesday and thereby avoid the tourist traffic and jams caused by cabs coming from Manali

If there are rainy conditions and roads are slushy then 2WD vehicles may find it really tough to cross Rohtang Pass

HVK’s advice: Last 2 years' (2010 and 2011) experience has been very negative. 2WD did not stand much chance crossing Rohtang, many had to be towed out of the bad stretches around Rani Nullah. In first week of Sep ’12 there was 1 foot deep slush at Rohtang

In mid-July 2011, there were landslides in Rohtang due to rains Read on Devilonwheels that for 2013 there will be timings on Rohtang pass, to ensure

that the pass is not a two way. This is good but our trips will need to be timedo Vehicles will only be allowed to go from Manali to Rohtang Pass from 6 AM to 12

Noon. After 12 Noon, tourists or any taxis or vehicle will not be allowed to go towards Rohtang Pass.

o Vehicles will only be allowed to come back from Rohtang Pass to Manali after 12 Noon to 10 PM only.

April 25, 2013

o Vehicles WILL NOT be allowed from 10 PM to 6 AM in the morning, means no early start for Manali – Leh Highway journey possible from now on .

Permit: Himachal govt. had decided to ban vehicles from out of state, from plying on the Manali - Rohtang La route, unless they have permit from the Office of Sub-Divisional Magistrate, Manali which will be issued between 10AM to 5PM on Monday to Saturday (barring Second Saturday, Sundays and Government Holidays). All travelers needed to source this permit before heading to Ladakh in their own vehicles or vehicles hired from other states. You did not need permits while coming from Leh.When going to Leh, you need to show the permit at Kothi check post. Complete details available at: http://devilonwheels.com/index.php/non-hp-vehicles-need-permit-on-manali-rohtang-pass-road/. Without the permit one could not cross Marhi (12km behind Rohtang La) while going from Manali. o Apparently from 2013 onwards no more permits will be required following a case

filed against the local admin policy of permits for out of state vehicles. The court maintained that this kind of "out of state vehicle requires permit" is unconstitutional and that you cannot have permits for specific vehicles unless you are going to an Inner Line Permit restricted area

o Rohtang La - Keylong: Tandi, 111km from Manali and after Rohtang Pass, is the only village on Manali-Leh highway

which has a petrol pump. Next petrol pump is 365 kms away at Karu (49 kms before Leh) Stay at Keylong: Good hotel options at Keylong but it is a town and not a village so won’t

have a rustic feelo Keylong - Jispa - Sarchu:

No repair or service stations after Keylong, no petrol pumps either Alternately, could stay at Jispa which has a nicer feel to it but hotels are a bit costlier Avoid staying at Sarchu overnight since it gets extremely cold and the wind chill is also very

higho Sarchu – Leh:

Will drive by Karu (49 kms before Leh) which has a petrol pumpo List of Nullahs one encounters from Manali to Leh:

Rani Nullah climbing up to Rohtang Pass There is one Nullah near Khoksar There is one near Stingiri on the way from Keylong to Jispa Heard of one bad one near Zing Zing bar (after Sarchu) on the way from Darcha to Baralacha

La, and also another on descent before Sarchu Kanglajal just before Pang can be bad sometimes Whiskey Nullah, Brandy Nullah and Pagal Nullah have proper bridges, no problems at all

o Can’t visit Tso Moriri on way from Manali to Leh since permit required to visit Tso Moriri is only available in Leh

However, you could get the permits done beforehand via a travel agent and have them courier/fax to you. Fax your ID documents to the travel agent and he/she will be able to help you through this. Generally, the check-posts will only require photocopies of the permits and

April 25, 2013

not the original copy. The Indian permits are valid for a week and if you get them just as you start your trip, you can visit the lake before you reach Leh and avoid the back and forth between Leh and Tso Moriri

o Can do Tso Kar from Moreh Plains on the way from Manali to Leh Tso Kar was a bit of a disappointment though for some. The roads are bad after the initial

good stretch from Moreh plains until Tso Kar

4. Shimla – Kalpa – Kaza – Keylong – Sarchu – Leho This route starts via the Lahaul Spiti Valley. Helps avoid Rohtang La but is longer by approx. 485 kmso Shimla - Kalpao Kalpa - Kazao Kaza - Keylongo Keylong – Sarchuo Sarchu – Leho For the exit one can do the same circuit or exit via Srinagar

5. Chamba - Keylong - Sarchu - Leho This route also allows to avoid Rohtang Lao Enroute, one would need to cross Sach Pass which is supposedly even worse than Rohtang La. It is

narrowero Chamba to Keylong is approx. 308 kmso Sach Pass is worse than Rohtang, narrowero https://maps.google.co.in/maps/ms?

msid=203865334618243622618.0004a6d31e6db62ada174&msa=0&ll=32.597734,76.216278&spn=0.62591,1.352692

6. Pangaong Tso - Hanle - Tso Moriri – Sarchu (Return Route)o Pangong to Hanle : Spangmik -> Man -> Merak -> Khaltse -> Chusul -> Tsaga La -> Loma -> Hanleo Make sure to enquire about the road condition in Tsaga La. Don't bother attempting it if it has

snowed. We had to skip this place last year.o Alternate route : Spangmik -> Tangtse -> Shakti -> Karu -> Upshi -> Kumdok -> Chumthang -> Mahe ->

Loma -> Hanle Not a good idea to take this route solo in an SX4. With a multi-car convoy where others can

help in recovery, it's fine - the no-road rocky & sandy track is otherwise devoid of vehicular traffic

this route is strictly for high GC vehicles, preferably with 4wd, if you are travelling soloo Hanle to Tso Moriri : Hanle -> Loma -> Sumdo -> Namashang la -> Tso Kiagar -> Karzok -> Tso Moriri

between Sumdo >> Morey plains, the road is almost deserted, though road condition should be quite good - and there is the occasional civilian truck taking up supplies to Moriri and beyond via this route

o Tso Moriri to Sarchu : Tso Moriri -> Karzok -> Nam. La -> Sumdo -> Polakongka La -> Tso Kar -> Moreh Plains -> Pang -> Lachung la -> Naki la -> Sarchu

April 25, 2013

INTERNAL LADAKH TRAVELLING

1. Around Leh: o Shey Monasteryo Pathar Sahab Gurudwarao Magnetic Hillo Shanti Stupa

2. Zanskar Valley o Primary route is: Kargil - Panikhar - Rangdum - Pensi La - Padum: approx. 230 kmso Kargil-Padum road opens the last in the Ladakh sector and in the first couple of weeks, virtually

impassable for none but the sturdy local taxis, especially in the Purkichey-Pensi La sectoro Zanskar Valley has easily the worst roads of Ladakh. Expect to have lots of uncertainty on this route in

May/June and also time delayso Padum - Leh is 17 hours minimumo Panikhar - Leh is around 7 hours. o Kargil - Panikhar on the Padum road is 3 hourso Alternate road is Padum to Nimmuo Advice from HVK: Zanskar Valley opens only in latter part of June. Road may be open till Purkatchik at

best. Assuming it is open, Rangdum is an inhospitable place to stay, the JKTDC is irregular in being open and the tent camps may not yet have opened. Plus horribly cold. Best is to make it to Padum the same day

o SUV is ok for the Padum route but not too sure about Wagon R or sedan. This road is a car breaker

3. Nubra Valley o Nubra Valley has two main places to visit: Hunder and Panamiko At Hunder one can see the sand dunes and Bactrian camelso Leh – Sumur (Nubra)o The road that goes to Hunder to has been extended up to Turtuk which is close to Siachen. That is the

closest one can get to Siachen. Purely a drive for achievement value – nothing spectacular in terms of scenery. Hunder to Turtuk is approx. 185 kms

o Road from Shyok to Agham is open, but there are no bridges and you will need an offroader as water level is close to 4 feet

4. Pongong Tso o If going from Nubra Valley to Pongong Tso directly, better to go through Leh. The road through Wari

La is marginally shorter but would take longer timeo Temperatures at Pongong Tso can drop to 5-6C in the night. Advisable to carry heavy woolens.

Should not miss dusk at Pongong Tso. Pangong Tso requires a day to go and come back from Leh provided you leave at 5am from Leh

April 25, 2013

o Advice from HVK: I wouldn't stay at Pangong, instead go and come back the same day, takes 5 hours one way, assuming Chang la road is OK

o Villages to stay near Pongong Tso: Spangmik, Merak

5. Tso Moriri o Pangong tso - Tso moriri is doable in a day (10 hours)o Pangong Tso –Tangtse - Chushul - Nyoma - Mahe - Chumathang - Sumdo - Tso Kiagar -Tso Morriri

This is on difficult no-road terrain, meant only for those who dare. You will not reach Tso Moriri the same day if you go via Chushul

You have to cross Tsaga La on this routeo Pangong Tso –Tangtse - Changla - Sakti - Karu - Upshi - Mahe - Chumathang - Sumdo - Tso Kiagar -Tso

Morriri This is the shortest & fastest. Chang La has to be crossed only on the Karu-Upshi route

o Stay at Karzok which has decent facilities o Spangmik (Pongong Tso) - Hanle (no formal guest house in Hanle, either stay at the bunker at the

observatory for which you need to book in advance or you can get a really cosy room at Katak's shop (hope I got the name correct!). The Katak family is the most resourceful family in Hanle, they have a shop for general ration, a couple of rooms that they let out as a guest house, serve food/tea and the biggest of all - they have a satellite pay phone) - Korzok

6. Tso Kar o Tso Kar has no facilities to stay, except for a luxury tent camp which opens later in the season

7. Tso Kiagar o Just a lake, no place to stay

8. Marisimek La o It’s a very tough track. Last couple of kms are very steep, very very steep, with rocky terrain. You

need to be in 4L if you want to do it all and even then it is tough

MISCALLANEOUS TIPS FOR ROUTE PLANNING:

1. Higher risk of landslides in the afternoon as snow melts2. Need time buffering for water crossings en route. In June, the snow melt will mean that certain water

crossings will be overflowing in the sun's heat after midday, making it impossible for any vehicle to cross in the latter part of the day.

o Some of the water crossings one encounters are: Kangla jal (after Pang), Zing Zing bar (after Sarchu), Stingri & in Keylong itself

CARS

1. Dezire has done the Leh trip in Aug/Sep. Underbody will scrape at a few places but nothing serious

April 25, 2013

2. It is feasible to do Ladakh in a sedan but suspensions would take a toll3. No need of 4x4 at all as you will see taxis (Tavera/Qualis/Sumo) crossing all trails easily and Safari performs

great there as well4. Pangong Tso and other high altitude places can be at sub-zero temperatures. This means small engined

diesels (even Direct injection common rain engines) will not start unless they have glow plugs5. Fitting Yokohama tyres recommended for travelling Ladakh6. Linea

a. From Team-BHP, J. Ravi, Sunney and Sunny Allen have driven Ladakh in their Lineasb. From J Ravi: For Linea, the worst part to cover is from Sonmarg to Zoji La. Once, Zoji La is crossed,

then it is smooth-sailing for Linea up to Leh. Similarly, near Khardung La [about 12 km on either side] some bad stretches are there, but nothing comparable to Zoji La. So, there is no need to park your Linea at Kargil. Better, park it at Leh! If you want to park it before Zoji La, you can safely park it at JKTDC Alpine Resorts, Sonmarg and continue your journey with others in an SUV. This place is 12 kms before Zoji La

c. Linea travelogue: http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travelogues/108607-leh-linea.html7. Question: Will Swift Zdi with 3 pax be able to take all the required luggage. A lot of stuff will have to be

dumped on back seat. A 60:40 split would have been ideal. If No. of pax increases to 5 it will be Innova?a. HVK: Tough for a Swift, it will be overloaded and in roads of June, find it extremely difficult to

negotiate some of the roads. Innova with 5 pax is also very much on the higher side, I would not take more than 4. If you prepare well, your baggage itself will occupy significant space

CAR HIRE

1. May 2011: someone hired a Sumo from Manali to Leh for Rs. 4500 for a 2 day trip with a night halt at Keylong 2. Tip - A Sumo would be better suited for that roads than a Qualis/Innova3. From Lloydofcochin (2009 rates)

a. Manali - Leh (2 days) - 4.5kb. Leh Local Sight Seeing – 1300c. Leh - Nubra Valley - Leh (1 day) – 4800d. Pongong Tso (1 day) – 5500e. Leh - Kargil - Srinagar (2 days) – 7700f. Except Manali Leh all the other trips were in a Qualis

4. Manali to Leh:a. In Manali, you simply go to taxi stand, at night before your trip, and wait for JK numbered vehicles

from Leh to come in. They are usually desperate to get back (every day in Manali costs them money as they cannot take local tourist). Bargain on spot, and you will get 5K rate in September with ease.

b. Walk in to the Manali Taxi union office in the bus stand ask for the rates and walk out. The drivers would then follow you and offer their rates. Don't be in a hurry, insist on seeing the respective vehicles and then bargain for a good deal. I guess you will be able to get one for around 5-5.5k

5. Leh to Manali:

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a. Go to old bus stand. There at night you will see HP numbered sumo/Qualis/Innova. Bargain with them. A HP taxi will charge more for Manali to Leh as the guy is not sure about return fare in off season. So they usually charge more. This means they are more eager to bargain if they get fare for return, as any passenger is a bonus. Otherwise, they have to take 8 passengers for 500 each and drive a fully loaded vehicle on that road back

6. Self-drive optionsa. Car rental companies can be difficult if they know you are driving to Leh and Manalib. There are many tour operators who provide SUVs at 10 Rs/km (Delhi/Noida - Leh - Delhi) This would

cost you approximate 33,000 Rs for 15 days 3000 km road trip to Leh. Assuming 5 people travelling, average cost would be just 6,500 per head. [vijus_n_n may have details]

c. SUVs on rental for self-drive. Quote from Feb 2012:i. Ford Endeavour 4x2 Rs.56,000 per week

ii. Toyota Fortuner 4x4 Rs.65,000 per weekiii. 50% additional surcharge for taking to Ladakh

7. Local driver in Leh:a. Local car+guide in Leh: Contact rkbharat for contact of a driver called "Rigzin". He is supposed to be

very experienced, and reliableb. From Rudra Sen on Team-BHP posted on 11th August 2012: Our taxi driver (from this year’s short

trip) is one of the best according to lots of tour operators from Leh. Can get driver details from himc. Tsk1979 posted on 19th Dec 2012 that he knows a good taxi guy in Leh

PERMITS NEEDED FOR

1. From Leh (Inner Line Permit - ILP - required to visit restricted areas in Ladakh):a. Pongong Tsob. Tso Karc. Tso Moririd. Polokong Lae. Nyomaf. Lomag. Tsagah. Chushuli. Manj. Merak (near Pongong Tso)k. Upshil. Hanlem. Hunder (Nubra Valley)n. Turtuk (closest point to Siachen)o. Mahe

2. From Kargil DC Office:a. Dha

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b. Batalik 3. Travel agent in Leh to arrange for permits: Mr. Toldan. He can be contacted on 9622995450. Also couriers the

permits to any address in India. Email: splashladakh@gmail.com or c/o dawa_jora@yahoo.com4. Permits for internal travel in Ladakh is to be taken in Leh. Office is shut on Sat/Sun and public holidays.

However, On Sundays, they issue permits between 2-3 pm – this might be done when there is a huge rush so do not count on it

THINGS TO CARRY (by no means exhaustive)

1. Jerry Can – hold ~20 litres of fuel2. Dimox tablets – it is a sulpha drug. To be taken only upon a doctor’s prescription. Check if you suffer from

reactions to sulpha3. Lip guard4. Sun block5. Small cylinder for cooking, boiling water, Tea, Maggie etc6. frozen food, juices, drinks, water etc from home base7. Towing wire, Axe etc are good to have.8. Small oxygen cylinder - You get small cans which are handy and can last you 2-3 minutes. These are normally

available at camping accessories stores. Alternatively, you have to lug along the large oxygen cylinders that you see used in hospitals, which are meant for use for longer time like, say, 30-60 minutes and more. But these are normally hired out from outfits who supply these cylinders against deposit, etc. Too bulky....and unnecessary

9. Gum boots for snow10. Postpaid BSNL connection for best connectivity in the mountains11. Limi tyre inflator 12. From zipperone: For all those planning a trip to Leh and the higher reaches, A car mounted CB radio is a must

have. It is a wonderful communication tool between vehicles for emergencies and advance information on the highways. A CB radio can now be bought legally in India and is license free to use anywhere in India. They are very reasonable priced and PM me if you need a radio. They are very easy to install in your car or SUV

8. 1 litre of coolant: make sure your cooling system is in top order, as overheating is the biggest danger on the high passes(less air for cooling, and continuous first gear climb at medium-high rpm)

9. One should always have the trolley-type jack, you can hoist the car with it and also move forward. It is an essential tool for Ladakh. Some people have used a trolley jack to hoist up one side or one tyre of the car and then move forward if the other wheels get traction. Typically helps if one side of the car has fallen into a ditch

TEAM-BHP RESOURCES

Pictures of roads in Ladakh:o Pongong Tso & the road to Chushul: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?

set=a.10150224342759851.338281.756379850&l=1851e3b135&type=1

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o From Chushul to Mahe: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150226278909851.338994.756379850&l=41fe292f46&type=1

o From Mahe to Tso Moriri and back to Sumdo: http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/4x4-excursions/47431-tata-safari-4x4-off-road-no-road-journeys-6.html#post1496091

Travelogues:o http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travelogues/108025-ladakh-sojourn-roof-world-over-21-days-

6500kms.htmlo http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travelogues/107667-humblehd-ii-indo-polish-himalayan-

expedition-ladakh-himachal-pradesh.htmlo http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/travelogues/66373-humbleh-d.html o http://jumarring.blogspot.in/

MISCALLANEOUS

Explore the possibility of sending the car by a car-carrier to Delhi / Chandigarh and driving on from there. Do not send by a generic truck since the condition of the car may not be great

High altitude issues: o In case you are looking to download your photos, etc. onto your laptop computers, you are advised

not to switch on the laptops all the way from Keylong through Sarchu, Pang, Tso Kar, Tso Moriri till Karu

o Take a look at any hard drive and you will see a small hole that says “do not cover” or something to that effect. That hole allows air to pass in and out of the drive. That air is needed to form an air “cushion” between the platter (the disc where data is saved) and the head which skims over the disk as it’s spinning. No air means the head will crash into the disk. The higher the altitude, the greater the risk of it happening. I’ve used my laptop at 14,000 ft on Kilimanjaro with no problems. People use laptops at Everest base camp (~18,000 feet). It works, but I would use it only when I really need it. The more time it is spinning at higher altitudes, the greater your chance of having a head crash. If you want to spend the money, you can buy a solid state drive (SSD – an option with the mac air) which uses flash memory. No moving parts to worry about here (Take a look at any hard drive and you will see a small hole that says “do not cover” or something to that effect http://www.lightstalkers.org/posts/high-altitude-laptop-problems-

Info on Ladakh road conditions: http://leh.nic.in/ Info on Lahaul-Spiti road conditions: http://hplahaulspiti.nic.in/access.htm Outlook Traveller useful article: http://traveller.outlookindia.com/issuecontent.aspx?pagenum=2&id=1338 Change air filters after getting to Leh since the drive through dusty, non-existant roads can clog the air filters

completely Office of DM of Leh: Deputy Commissioner

9419139028, 9906993222, 01982-252010, 01982-252106 (Fx), 01982-201514, 01982-252027, 01982-201513 Camping:

April 25, 2013

o DO NOT camp close to rivers/streams. They may be inviting not worth the risk of flash floods. Around Jispa, you may not see flat grounds like Sarchu. But camp at high ground

Health advisory:o Those with asthma, wheezing & high BP problems are medically advised not to travel to Ladakho Without having a good head for heights and highway driving, it will be a bad idea for the novice to be

on Ladakh's roadso Heart patients are generally cautioned against going, but there are some who have had heart

treatment and have gone to Ladakh Ladakh Festival is from 1st to 15th Sept in 2013. Leh would be crowded around that time Tangste fuel in black is of very good quality. Ditto for Diskit. Avoid buying fuel in Padum and Tso Moriri.

HOTELS

1. Ladakh: Depends on the season. Till mid-Aug, it is best if you can arrange acco in advance but then you will also end up paying very high rates. From mid-Aug onwards, you can walk in and get acco anywhere bargaining heavily

2. List of hotels in Ladakh: http://devilonwheels.com/index.php/tag/ladakh-hotel/3. Ratangarh

a. RTDC Chinkara (1337 kms from Mumbai)4. Good hotels at Hanumangarh & Abohar5. Ferozpur

a. Hotel Kayson (above HDFC bank) – Rs 700 +28 tax with split AC(room nos 108 and 106.Receptionist Amarjit)6. Pathankot

a. Le Kingston(room 102 receptionist Gurmeet Rs. 1000 AC) – latest reports suggest quality has deteriorated7. Hotel 17th Mile at Bari Brahma 17 kms before Jammu, on the highway itself8. Patnitop

a. Hotel Broadway Kassal More Patnitop, Distt Udampur, Jammu and KashmirTelephone:0199-2275439

9. Srinagara. Houseboats @ 2500 EB-1500b. Hotel Mirage, Near Dr. Dhar, New Era Road, Raj Bagh, Sri Nagar. 190 008(j&k)

Telephone:0194-2107176,09906591371,09469031003c. Sajid- Gd Travel agent in Srinagar for bookings – 9796716252d. Hotel Malik Palace – HVK’s name will get you a solid discount

10. Sonmarga. Sonmarg Palace - HVK’s name will get you a solid discount

11. Kargila. Caravan Sarai @ 2960 EB-1500b. PC Palacec. J&K Tourist bungalow

12. Zoji Laa. D’Zoji La: Tel: 09419187452 contact person is Mr. Abbas

April 25, 2013

13. Manalia. The Orchard Greens @ 4K EB-1.5K KID-.8K

14. Between Manali and Rohtanga. Few hotels at Kothi (e.g. Sagoo Café), last village on the highway, 30 kms from Rohtangb. Hotels at Palchan (e.g. Whispering Woods) which is 5 kms before Kothic. Before Kothi there is Solang Valley

15. Keylonga. Drilbu Retreat @ 2500 EB-1000 KID-.8b. Chandrabhaga

16. Sarchua. Adventure Camp @ 2500 EB-1000 KID .8 b. Maukila Adventure Camp

17. Leha. Namgyal palace @ 2960 EB-1500 KID-.8b. City Palacec. Lha Ri Sa Resortd. Spic n Spane. Youth Hostel Leh-Ladakh, C/o Hotel Horzey, Old Road Chulung, Leh-Ladakh (J & K), India

Telephone:+91-1982-252454, 09906979233 (Mr.P. Wangchuk)f. Hotel Manserg. Kidar Guest House

Contact person: JigmetTel: 09622963234Costs: 700 - 1500 per room per night

h. Lha-Ri-Sa resorti. Grand Dragon (likely open in winters as well)

18. Nubra Valleya. Lharimo North (Cottages) @ 2960 EB-1500b. Silk Route Cottage

19. Pongong Tsoa. Camp Watermark @ 3600 EB 1600 (high-end camp)b. Marsimik La camp (high-end camp)c. Pongong Resort & Camp

20. Disketa. Siachen guesthouse

21. Turtuk (in Nubra valley, further north from hunder)a. Attatullah’s camp

22. Lukung (near Pongong Tso)a. Martsimik La Camp (Martsimik not recommended for a 2WD vehicle)

23. Tangtse (near Pongong Tso)a. Dothguling Guesthouse

24. Korzok (village on the banks of Tso Moriri)

April 25, 2013

a. Nomadic Life Camp (high-end camp)Contact Person: JamesEmail: nomadic.life@yahoo.com; gdorjey@yahoo.comCosts: 2500-3500 INR per room per night, including dinner & breakfast

b. There are at least 3 luxury tent camps in Karzok, a pucca hotel and several small lodges25. Hunder

a. Habib Guest HouseTel: 01980221039, 9469177178Costs: 400 - 800 per room per night.

26. Meraka. Not many acco options except a few homestays

27. Hanlea. No acco except for some homestays

28. Mahe is just a check post, no place to stay. Not even in the village nearby29. Chumathang has a small hotel. But that is not really a choice to stay in unless you are badly delayed30. Sumdo has no accommodation, although there is a small tent camp on the Sumdo-Tso Kiagar road31. Maan

a. Pangong Sarai - The place was near the lake and accommodation was really nice. Rs. 2800 for medium size tent including food. Food there is veg unless you can take chicken with yourself from Leh. The owner Regzin also runs the Ladakh Sarai at Saboo model village that is about 7 kilometers from Leh. Regzin is a very nice person