water and oil fusion - sandro ballariano cosmeticlove
TRANSCRIPT
TE
CHNOLOGY
PATENTED
FORMULIENCE™
PALM OIL
FREE
PolyAquol™ VO4
Water and Oil Fusion
Our Technology
Vegetable oils PolyAquol™-VO4 is compatible with 100% vegetable oils
Vis
cosi
ty (c
Ps)
(20°
C, s
04)
0
4000
2000
6000
8000
30% tot oil phase (5% PolyAquol™-VO4, 25% Vegetable Oil); 70% Water Phase
Olive OilS. Almond Oil Jojoba Oil Sesame Oil Macadamia Oil Hazelnut Oil Cotton Oil
25ºCCold process
Synergistic action between polyhydroxystearic structures and selected polyglycerol derivatives of fatty acids
OH
OH OH OH OH
OH
OH
OH
OH
OH OH
OH
OH
OH
OH
OH OH OH
OH
HO
HO
HO
HO HO
HO HO HO HO
HO
HO HO
HOHO
HO HO HO
HO
HO
O
OO
O
OO
O
O
O O
O
O O O O
O
O
O
O O
O O O O
O
O
O
O O
O
O O
O
O
OOOO
O
O
O
Key features New exclusive concept for Water and Oil Fusion (W+O)
Excellent compatibility with vegetable oils
100% vegetable source, GMO-free, PEG-free, palm-free
Cold-processable
Environmental friendly
High internal water phase loading
Low energy emulsification process
Low usage level
Unique sensorial properties
Patented technology
25ºC
PALM OIL
FREE
TE
CHNOLOGY
PATENTED
PolyAquol™-VO4 creates stable emulsions in the presence of various vegetable oils with high polarities
Modifying the lipid phase composition and polarity
PolyAquol™-VO4 is compatible with various vegetable oil and mineral oil ratios
Possibility to create different viscosity levels
PolyAquol™-VO4 is compatible with various vegetable oil and lipid ester ratios
Possibility to create different viscosity levels
Vis
cosi
ty (c
Ps)
(20°
C, s
04. 2
0 rp
m)
0
3000
1000
5000
4000
2000
6000
Variation of the vegetable oil/ester ratio
100:0 75:25 50:50 25:75
25ºCCold process
Vegetable Oil Ester
30% total oil phase (5% PolyAquol™-VO4, 25% Sweet Almond Oil and/or Caprilylic/Capric Triglyceride); 70% water phase.
100% vegetable oil
25% vegetable oil/75% ester
Optical microscopy analysis 600x
Vis
cosi
ty (c
Ps)
(20°
C, s
04. 2
0 rp
m)
0
4000
1000
6000
5000
3000
2000
7000
Variation of the vegetable oil/mineral oil ratio
100:0 75:25 50:50 25:75
25ºCCold process
Vegetable Oil Mineral Oil
30% total oil phase (5% PolyAquol™-VO4, 25% Sweet Alamond Oil and/or Paraffinum Liquidum); 70% water phase.
100% vegetable oil
25% vegetable oil/75% mineral oil
Optical microscopy analysis 600x
Targeting a wide range of viscosity levels with as low as 1.5% PolyAquol™-VO4
Vis
cosi
ty le
vel (
cPs)
0
4000
5000
3000
1000
7000
6000
2000
8000
1.5% 2% 3% 5%4%
25ºCCold process
PolyAquol™-VO4 Concentration
*Total Oil Phase (30%) : PolyAquol™-VO4 (x%), Mixture of Vegetable Oils (x%): Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil, Corylus Avellana (Hazel) Seed Oil,
Magnesium Stearate, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid
A wide range of viscosity levels with up to 80% internal water phase
Vis
cosi
ty le
vel (
cPs)
0
15000
10000
5000
20000
25000
30000
25ºCCold process
Internal water phase (%)
Oil Phase : PolyAquol™-VO4, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil, Corylus Avellana (Hazel) Seed Oil, Magnesium Stearate, Lecithin,
Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid
50% 60%
70%
75%
80%
PolyAquol™-VO4 creates a wide range of viscosity levels
PolyAquol™-VO4 allows for a high internal phase – 80% water
PolyAquol™-VO4 creates a wide range of viscosity levels
PolyAquol™-VO4 allows for a high internal phase – 80% water
Water Phase 50% 60% 70% 75% 80%
Oil Phase 50% 40% 30% 25% 20%
Viscosity (cPs) 1160 2300 6100 13060 29500
Appearance Serum Milk Lotion Cream Gel
Comparison with polyglycerol-based W/O emulsifiers
PolyAquol™-VO4 produces stable emulsion in comparison with other polyglycerol-based emulsifiers
PolyAquol™-VO4 is fully compatible with polar oils
25ºC 25ºC 25ºC
PolyAquol™-VO4
Step 1Adding PolyAquol™-VO4
to the oil phase
Step 2*Incorporating the water phase to
the oil phase. Then, progressively increasing homogenization up to 2500 rpm
Step 3*Stirring the emulsion at 50 rpm
* for a 200 gram batch
Cold process
Oil Phase (tot. 30%)Viscosity
(cPs)3Stability
(1 month at 50°C)
Emulsifier Emollients
2%
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate,Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Propanediol
28%1
1700 Unstable
Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate / Unstable
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate,Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate
2100 Unstable
PolyAquol™–VO4 3400 3Stable
5%
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate,Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Propanediol
25%2
3360 Unstable
Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate / Unstable
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate,Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate
2180 Unstable
PolyAquol™–VO4 3930 3Stable
1Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil, Corylus Avellana (Hazel) Seed Oil, Magnesium Stearate, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid2Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil, Corylus Avellana (Hazel) Seed Oil, Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Squalane, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid3Brookfield, RVDV-I, Sp 05, 20 rpm
Oil Phase (tot. 30%)Viscosity (cPs)**
Stability(1 month at 50°C)
EmulsifierVegetable
Oil*
5%
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate,Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Propanediol
25%
3500 Unstable
Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate / Unstable
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate,Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate
3160 Unstable
PolyAquol™–VO4 3740 3Stable * Olea Eropaea (Olive) Oil** Brookfield, RVDV-i, Sp 05, 20 rpm
Formulations with PolyAquol™-VO4
Pure Natural Lotion Reference: TR 49 11 02E
INCI Name % Function
Phase A
Water (Aqua)up to
100.00
Glycerin 5.00 Humectant
Magnesium Sulfate 1.00 Stabilizing Agent
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate 0.05 Chelating Agent
Preservative a.n. Preservative
Phase B
Polyglycerol-4 Oleate (and) Polyglycerol-6 Oleate (and) Polyhydroxystearate-PolyAquol™-VO4
2.00 Emulsifier
Oryza Sativa Bran Oil 6.80 Emollient
Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil 6.80 Emollient
Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil 6.75 Emollient
Corylus Avellana (Hazel) Seed Oil 6.75 Emollient
Magnesium Stearate 0.80 Lipophilic gelling Agent
Lecithin, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid 0.10 Antioxidant
Phase C
Perfume 0.10 Perfume
VISCOSITY after 24h Brk, RVDV-I Prime, Sp 05, 20 rpm 4000 - 5000 cps
Hydrating Body Cream Reference: TR 49 10E7
INCI Name % Function
Phase A
Water (Aqua)up to
100.00
Glycerin 5.00 Humectant
Magnesium Sulfate 1.00 Stabilizing Agent
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate 0.05 Chelating Agent
Preservative a.n. Preservative
Phase B
Polyglycerol-4 Oleate (and) Polyglycerol-6 Oleate (and) Polyhydroxystearate-PolyAquol™-VO4
5.00 Emulsifier
Oryza Sativa Bran Oil 7.50 Emollient
Dicaprylyl Carbonate 7.50 Emollient
Lecithin, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid 0.10 Antioxidant
Phase C
Perfume 0.10 Perfume
VISCOSITY after 24h Brk, RVDV-I Prime, Sp 92, 10 rpm 9000 - 13000 cps
Cold process
Excellent affinity with different types of oil
High amount of water phase (up to 80%)
Superior sensorial profile
Cold process
Low % of use
100% vegetable oil phase
Superior sensorial profile
PolyAquol™–VO4PolyAquol™-VO4 is a new, patented technology in the field of emulsions. Unlike stan-dard emulsifiers, it literally creates a Water-and-Oil Fusion; W+O. Our W+O technology developed based on synergistic interactions between polyglyceryl derivatives of oleic acid and polyhydroxystearic acid. In addition to be completely natural as per its Cosmos certification and palm-free origin, it performs even in the presence of 100% vegetable oil. PolyAquol™-VO4 is an easily pourable liquid that allows the formation of cold-process emulsions. Its particularity to accept up to 80% of internal water phase brings full control to the viscosity of the final emulsion. It can create stable emulsions when used in a concentration as low as 2% and surpasses competition in robustness and sensoriality.
Technical information INCI (proposed): Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Oleate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid
W/O emulsions
Compatible with 100% vegetable oils
Cold-process emulsions
Low energy emulsification process
Recommended use level: 2-5%
Viscous amber liquid
PolyAquol™-VO4 is compatible with:
– Polar oils
– Pigments
– Organic and inorganic UV filters
– High % of internal phase
– Waxes (e.g. microcrystalline)
– Consistency agents (e.g. magnesium stearate)
Applications Skin care
– BB & CC creams, cushions
Sun care
Baby care
Make up
Fabric masks
Green emulsions
Background
Formulation
Innovacos corp.111 Howard Blvd, Suite 160 Mt. Arlington New Jersey 07856
www.innovacos.com
© 2018 by Innovacos corp. All rights reserved Conception and design Symbiose design-graphique
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