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In this issue:• Nuances of Northumberland• Oak & Wine• Paradise Point is in California• Exploring the World of Sherry • Liven up the BBQand much more...

In this issue:• Nuances of Northumberland• Oak & Wine• Paradise Point is in California• Exploring the World of Sherry • Liven up the BBQand much more...

for the Connoisseur Lifestyle

Volume 15-2Price $3.95

for the Connoisseur Lifestyle

Elite ■ 15-2 ■ 2007 1www.elitewinefoodtravel.com

Published by: Enoteca Publishing Inc.

Publisher: W. C. Cavaliere

Editor: Anna M. Cavaliere

Contributing Writers:Anna M. Cavaliere Craig Gambarotto-McKayChef Dez Barbara D. RitchieW.C. Enoteca Margot RitchieEdward Finstein

Graphic Design: Janet Beauchamp, Arteffects

SubscriptionElite Wine, Food & Travel Magazine is a quarterlypublication distributed to selected homes andbusinesses in the Toronto and surrounding area;members of the hospitality, food and Travelindustries; and subscribers. Readers wishing tosubscribe should mail the yearly cost of $14.00(outside Canada $25.00), payable to Elite Wine,Food & Travel Magazine, P.O. Box 37, Concord,Ontario L4K 1B2.

Letters to the EditorComments, criticism, suggestions and complaintsare welcome. All letters must include thewriter’sname and address. We reserve the right to editletters for length and style. Address correspondenceto: Editor, Elite Wine, Food & Travel Magazine, P.O. Box 37, Concord, Ontario L4K 1B2, or e-mail: editor@elitewinefoodtravel.com

Editorial ContributionsManuscripts submitted, whether published or not,cannot be returned. No part of this publication maybe reprinted without the express written permissionof the publisher. Elite Wine, Food & Travel Magazinedoes not necessarily agree with the opinionsexpressed herein, nor may it be held responsible forfacts as presented by authors, contributors and/oradvertisers.

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TT A B L E O F C O N T E N T SA B L E O F C O N T E N T S

FEAFEATURESTURES6 The Wine Line15 Fermentations: Oak & Wine24 Wining & Dining28 Wine Buys

TRATRAVELVEL2 Bilbao - Wine & Guggenheim12 Nuances of Northumberland: Memorable Food

in the North East of England30 Paradise Point is In California

FOOD & RECIPESFOOD & RECIPES8 Canadian Knorr Recipes

(from Canada's Next Great Chef Competition -Season 2)23 Chef Dez on Cooking: Summer is in the Air31 Grant's Scotch Whisky Liven's up the BBQ

WINEWINE18 Exploring the World of Sherry: The Importance of Origin (Part 2 of 2)33 Three Tuscan "Wine" Jewels Shine Brightly:

• A Preview of the 2006 Vintage of Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and Brunello di Montalcino

OF SPECIAL INTERESTOF SPECIAL INTEREST5 Riedel Glasses: The Shape Determines Wine's Taste16 Calendar of Events26 News & Views29 New Products

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COVER ART:

“Wine Woman” by Anu Vittal MisraA Canadian artist of Indian origin, Anu’s paintings present an etherealimagination on the various facets of life. The subjects are simple, but theportrayal is unique in every sense with nuances of colour and textures.

Her bold strokes bring a third dimension to the painting, so much so thatthe viewer is tempted to reach out and touch the subject as if it were real.

There is a hint of south Asian culture in her depictions of women, who come alive in her worksas she encapsulates their challenges and victories in the world today. A harmonious blend oftradition and contemporary is the best way to describe her creations.

Her works have been exhibited in Savac South Asian Visual Arts Community; Visual ArtsMississauga; the Artscapes Gallery as well as the Port Credit Library.

Anu would love to hear from our readers, and can be contacted by e-mail atnuavittal@yahoo.com or by phone at 647-300-3693.

www.elitewinefoodtravel.com

2 Elite ■ 15-2 ■ 2007

Naturally, we were eager to visit the Bilbao museum. Our visit in early May coincidentally came nearthe time of the recent opening of the “crystal” at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto; a controversialaddition.

The Modernist period produced architecture remarkable, mostly for its lack of remarkable features.Attempts to retro-fit some of the block-like buildings have given us some pathetic structures whichamount to the same featureless rectangles with a pointless, pointed construct stuck on top.

But the world has also enjoyed some spectacular displays of thinking outside-the-box by ExpressionistModernists. One of the best known unleashing of imagination has been the seemingly formlessGuggenheim Museum in Bilbao, Spain.

The design, by Frank O. Gehry, seems impossible on first sight, but is amazingly comfortable once onehas walked within its curving walls. The only enclosed space with right angles seems to be the glass-walled elevator. And even that is set within a twisting enclosure of steel and glass.

The main hall and the many galleries are both irregular in shape and spectacular in theirinterconnectivity unity. One area seems to flow into another and indeed through the glass walls onto

his spring we made a long anticipated journey to visitBilbao, Spain.

Riverview Guggenheim

Elevator at Bilbao

BilbaoWine & GuggenheimBilbaoWine & Guggenheim

By Craig and JoAnne Gambarotto-McKay

T

T R AT R A V EV E LL

Elite ■ 15-2 ■ 2007 3

the surrounding patios and walkway along the river Nervion whichflows alongside. The building is very large, and yet proportion andcontour make it seem appropriate to the riverside setting.

Before venturing within, we walked by the museum and viewed itfrom several vantage points. The famous puppy is perhaps mostimpressively approached by the calle de Iparraguirre which leadsfrom the city centre. The living flowers are best viewed close up.The flowers are changed according to the season. When we werethere, the puppy was covered in thousands of pansies.

The floral sculpture, designed by Jeff Koons, was part of the openingceremonies for the Bilbao Guggenheim, but proved so popular thatit remains as part of the permanent collection. The almost playfulaspects of the puppy provide a disarmingly friendly welcome to themuseum.

The various exhibits are accessed from a central glass atrium whichtowers above and around while still conveying a sense ofcontinuation of the outdoor space. Indeed many of the permanentexhibits, such as the Puppy and Spider, stand outside the museum.These outside walls are covered in scale-like curved plates of metaland glass panels. The impression is of swirling surfaces ratherthan walls.

The scale, even of the galleries, is such that immense sculpturesseem to occupy only small portions of the available space.Catwalks provide airy balconies from which startling perspectivesof exhibits may be viewed.

Photography cannot capture the Guggenhiem. The drama of a steephillside is not reflected in the resulting snapshot; the scale and grandeurof this structure defy photographic reproduction. Indeed, as one movesthrough the edifice one has an impression that the building is flowing andchanging.

We do not pretend to a profound understanding of modern art, but fewcould fail to be moved and stimulated by the building, the setting and theinsightful permanent exhibitions housed within the “walls” of thisstartling museum.

The immense proportion of Richard Serra’s curved steel exhibit isdaunting in itself. The combined weight of the sculptures exceeds1,500,000 kilograms. This is art which one experiences from within. Asyou wander between the mathematically derived curving surfaces there isa sense of impending threat that the walls, which approach and regressfrom each other, will crush one beneath their formidable bulk. As oneprogresses toward the centre of these behemoths, the perception is thatthey are larger within than without.

The audio guide provided has the artist speaking about his creativeprocess, using physics and mathematical formulae to produce thisartistic masterpiece.

Driving in Bilbao is not a pleasant experience. It was not until we hadnegotiated the maze-like collections of one-way streets and pedestrianwalkways, and parked beneath our hotel, that we could relax and enjoyBilbao. The city itself has been described as unremarkable, but the barsand restaurants offer good Basque cuisine and splendid wines fromnearby wine regions, Navarra, Rioja, Ribera del Duero, etc.

One of our great joys in Spain is visiting the bars during the pre-dinnerTapas ritual. Bilbao proved a good place to enjoy this feature of Spanishlife. We enjoyed tasty tapas while sampling various Riojas at a local bar.

Puppy Exhibit

Spider Exhibit

4 Elite ■ 15-2 ■ 2007

Here we were offered the choice of having the wine at room temperatureor chilled.

We had selected a Michelin rated restaurant, Rogelio, in Ctra. De Basurtoa Castrejana, for dinner. Even though the restaurant was only 2 kms fromour hotel, our nightmarish driving experience of that afternoon (and ourextensive enjoyment of the Rioja) convinced us to take a taxi.

Our reservation was for 10:00, a normal time to begin an evening meal inSpain. The dining is above the ground floor bar and has windows whichoverlook the street. The menu was regional and exciting and the wine listimpressive. Our experience was only slightly coloured by the mild foodpoisoning which diminished the enjoyment of our journey to Salamancathe following day.

Considering the many meals we’ve enjoyed throughout the world duringthe past 25 years, it is perhaps most remarkable that we have onlysuffered side effects a handful of times. Most remarkable were Craig’sMoroccan indigestion and his mayonnaise-provoked stomach cramps inthe Loire valley. In this instance we blamed the selection of cold cutswhich preceded the main course. Still, it was mild, and a small price topay to enjoy great dining experiences.

Craig and JoAnne Gambarotto-McKayspend part of each year in Spain. Thereand abroad they search for and enjoy finewines and cuisine. Craig has publishedalso under the pen name James W. Marsh.

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Curved Steel in Guggenheim

Elite ■ 15-2 ■ 2007 5

RECOMMENDED CARE FORYOUR GLASSES•Wash under warm water, detergent is

not necessary•NEVER TWIST THE BASE AND BOWL•Place on linen to dry for the time being•For extra shine, steam over boiling water•To polish, use 2 micro-fibre crystal

towels. Hold glass by base and polish. Use left hand to cradle the bowl and polish with your right hand. Perfect results!

Pinot Noirglass

Riedel Champagne

Glass

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RIEDEL GLASSESRIEDEL GLASSESThe Shape DeterminesWine’s Taste By Anna Cavaliere

Riedel Crystal, a family-owned and operated company last year celebrated250 years of history and they did so by showcasing 250 new items at theTabletop Show in Frankfurt, Germany.

Following on the company’s prior accomplishments, 9th generation Claus Josef Riedel revolutionized the world ofwine with his introduction of functional stemware. He came to the realization that the shape of the glassimpacted not only on perception, but that the same wine actually tasted different when drunk from differentglasses. Taking this concept one step further, 10th generation Georg Joseph Riedel concluded that the appropriateglass actually enhances the wine’s flavour and bouquet.

Riedel produces a broad range of different glass shapes and collections for every lifestyle, created in both leadedcrystal and non-lead versions. While the Sommeliers collection and all decanters are a study in mouth-blownperfection, Riedel has also raised the production of exquisite machine-blown designs to an art. Regardless ofdiffering levels of sophistication and price ranges, all of their stemware is a visual delight.

A special showcase dinner at the Four Seasons Hotel, hosted by Maximilian Riedel, was the perfect venue to debutthe exquisite versatility of the Riedel glassware Nachtmann collections.

Champagne served in a contemporary glass was a prelude to a sumptuous dinner which began with “CookstownGreens, Dungeness Crab, Flowers and Young Blossoms Chardonnay Vinaigrette” nestled in an “O” Chardonnayglass. It was followed by a Lobster Risotto that was served on an elegant Kendo dish and accompanied with aParker Station, Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara 2002 in a Vitis Pinot Noir glass. The meal concluded with a dazzlingquartet of decadent desserts served on a Kendo 5-piece serving dish, assorted chocolate truffles, all of which wassavoured with Inniskillin, Riesling Icewine, Niagara Peninsula 2004 served in a Vinum Extreme Icewine glass. Thememorable evening was truly a feast for all the senses.

THE SHAPES OF THINGS TO COMELike all the glasses in the lead crystal Vitis series, the Pinot Noir glass features a seamless pulled stem and hasa Vinum Extreme bowl shape that beautifully compliments New World wines. Riedel also collaborates with manyrespected professionals from the wine and spirits industries to develop new glass shapes that best display thecharacteristic aromatics and palate of each beverage.

The diamond-shaped and hand-made Cabernet Sauvignon glass is recognizable by the engraving of the Riedelname on each glass. It retails for $100-120 Cdn.

The especially designed Tequila glass was ultimately selected from among twenty that were created in a varietyof shapes. The process involved samples being sent to Mexico, and then narrowed down to a possible four shapes,which then brought forth the winning design.

Chosen in December 2006, in the Rosé Workshop in San Francisco, the vinum-sized glass 416/16 (lead crystal,machine-made) is the best glass to bridge the wide range of Rosé wines. This year, Riedel selected the “PinkVinum Rosé Glass” to donate 15% of its value to the Breast Cancer Associations around the world. A cheque waspresented after the meal to a representative of the Princess Margaret Hospital Breast Cancer SurvivorshipProgram, from the Riedel Living Beyond Breast Cancer campaign.

I was really taken with Riedel’s striking oval Cappuccino cups and saucers. The saucer’s deep groove prevents tippingand offers practicality in serving, adding to the ensemble’s overall beauty when it graces your table. I was told that thesaucer can also double as an ashtray, although it would be a shame to mar its beauty in such a way!

O F S P E C I A L I N T E R E S TO F S P E C I A L I N T E R E S T

W I N EW I N E

Wine LineA Vertical Tasting of Bodegas MontecilloWines from Spain

Founded in 1874, Bodega Montecillo is one of the premier wine producersin Rioja, Spain. Their ability to consistently deliver elegant wines reflectsthe philosophy of Maria Martinez-Sierra, who has been wine-maker atMontecillo since 1975. Shunning the trend towards big, jammy wines, shehas remained a traditionalist, believing that fine red wines can be madewith low alcohol levels of 12-13% and finesse.

To do this, she took the unusual step of selling off all of Montecillo’svineyards in 1978, opting to buy Rioja grapes instead. This gave them theflexibility to skip making wines in poor vintages, such as 1979, 1992 and1999. Having the financial backing of their parent company, GrupoOsborne, one of Spain’s top sherry producers, has been key to this strategy.

Maria only buys grapes from the higher Rioja Alta region, not from thelower Rioja Baja area. And she only sources the fruit from the oldestvineyards. Then, she maintains a cooler temperature during fermentation,which slows the yeast development and the metabolizing of all of the

flavours. Maria tries to keep the wines unfiltered as well and does not likea heavy oak influence. She only uses French oak, buying from the northand central regions, rather than the popular Limousine oak from thesoutheast. She always seasons the wood, but never toasts it. The barrelaging room is underground, where temperatures are held to 14 degreesCelsius. The net result is more refined tannins and fuller fruit flavoursthan those found in typical Rioja wines.

Maria led us through a vertical tasting of Montecillo wines, including herfirst vintage of 1975. This rare opportunity was facilitated by PeterMielzynski Agencies at their spring’s Chairman’s Gala, held at the TorontoHunt Club.

Montecillo Gran Reserva1998 was made with grapes from 50+ year oldvines, whereas the other wines in this tasting came from 75-100 year oldvines. Garnet, plum purple in colour, it shows a nose of prunes and raisins,with a subtle herbaceous backdrop. Montecillo Gran Reserva 1991 hasstronger tannins, with more acidity. Raisins, dark plums and chocolatecome through in the long finish. Montecillo Gran Reserva 1987 came fromone of the better vintages in Rioja. The wine spent four years in barrique,giving it silky tannins and soft red fruit flavours. Montecillo Gran Reserva

1985 was another good vintage, and the fruit was sourcedfrom the higher areas of Rioja Alta. The nose has awonderful earthy and mushroom aspect and the palateshows good fruit, with a slightly hot finish.

Montecillo Gran Reserva 1982 has an herbaceous nose,with sweet cherries and plums on the palate. MontecilloGran Reserva 1981 is the vintage Maria considers herbest. With 52 months of oak aging, it has an extremelyelegant nose, with lots of soft tannins in the palate.Flavours of red cherries, plums and licorice meld togetherin the long finish. Montecillo Gran Reserva 1978 still haslively tannins, although it is starting to show brown hues.Red licorice and subtle earthy and herbaceous notes comethrough in this elegant wine. Montecillo Gran Reserva1975, Maria’s first vintage, still shows a red brick colour.It has a high tannic backbone, with typical red cherriesand licorice flavours.

The

Wine LineThe

By Barbara D. Ritchie

Chef Marc Thuet at Perrier-Jouet brunch

Elite ■ 15-2 ■ 2007 7

Celebrate the Summer with a Flute of Perrier-Jouet or G. H. Mumm Champagne

There is nothing like a glass of champagne to set the mood for acelebration or a Sunday brunch. Corby’s recently hosted a joint tasting ofPerrier-Jouet and G.H. Mumm over a champagne brunch, with foodpairings prepared by respected Chef Marc Thuet.

We began the tasting with Perrier-Jouet Blason Rose ($75). Strawberrycoloured with floral notes, it is full bodied and well textured champagne,with a soft and elegant finish. A blend of 50% Pinot Noir, 45% Chardonnay,and 5% Meunier, this makes an excellent food match. Thuet paired it with‘Wild red spring salmon trios saveurs in a Perrier-Jouet Rosé foam’.

The next dish of ‘Scrambled eggs (in their shell) and lobster en cocotte’was paired with G.H. Mumm Cramant Champagne ($95; 12.5%). Madewith 100% Chardonnay grapes from the Cramant region near the Côte desBlancs, it is aged for two years on the lees to preserve its citruscharacteristics. Pale, with a greenish hue, it has a lively lime palate, witha touch of hazelnut and a delicate perlage.

G.H. Mumm Grand Cru ($89; 12.5%) was matched with ‘Soft maple syrupFrench toast, ragout of rabbit and morel’. Made from a blend of 42%Chardonnay and 58% Pinot Noir, the grapes were sourced from five differentcrus, each of which was pressed separately. Faint gold in colour, it has amild, yeasty nose with nuances of candied, yellow fruits and a hint of brioche.

The next dish was a ‘Duo of lamb loin and chef’s house made Merguezsausage, poached quail egg and white asparagus’. The champagneselection for this course was Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque Rose 2002 ($350;12.5%). With the same blend as the Perrier-Jouet Blason Rose, thischampagne has exceptional finesse and elegance. Golden coloured, witha honeyed palate, it has intense aromas of candied dry fruits and a round,supple palate.

We finished with Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque 1999 ($130; 12.5%), a blendof 50% Chardonnay, 45% Pinot Noir and 5% Pinot Meunier. With goldenhues, this champagne has a high acidity with a lively palate and aromasof coffee and toast. Chef Marc Thuet chose to pair this with ‘Cendre goatcheese and Saint Benedictine blue cheese panna cotta and a trufflepineapple consomme’.

‘Good Things Come in Small Parcels’ – from New Zealand’s Kim Crawford WinesKim Crawford Wines has become one of the more recognized New Zealandbrands in Canada, its fastest growing export market. One of the firstwineries to embrace screwcap closures, the winery has grown from 4,000to 400,000 cases since it opened in 1996. Erica Crawford was in Torontorecently to promote the ‘Small Parcels’ program that she and her husbandand winemaker, Kim, launched two years ago.

Their ‘Small Parcel’ (SP) philosophy is to make wines from their best grapeseach year, wherever they are grown. Unlike single vineyard labels, these donot have to be sourced from the same vineyard each year. Instead, they cancome from any combination of vineyards or regions, with different blocks ofgrapes vinified separately. The decision about which grapes go into the‘Small Parcel’ blend is not made until just prior to bottling.

Their willingness to differentiate themselves, which has enabled them to builda strong brand presence, is what caught the attention of Canada’s Vincorgroup. In 2003, Vincor bought Kim Crawford Wines for over $15 million.

Erica led us through a tasting of their Small Parcel (‘SP’) wines, all ofwhich are priced in the Canadian market in the $20-$30 range. KimCrawford SP Anderson Bone Dry Marlborough Riesling 2004 (12.2%;$24.95) comes from a single vineyard in the Brancott Valley inMarlborough. It is pale straw in colour, with a limestone, flinty aspect.Pink grapefruit flavours, typical of Marborough fruit, come through on thezesty palate. Its underlying bracing acidity makes it a perfect food winewith shellfish or calamari. Small Parcel ‘Spit Fire’ MarlboroughSauvignon Blanc 2006 (13%; $29.95), sourced from Delta fruit, is veryaromatic, with a grapefruit and tropical and a lovely herbaceous aspect.It has rounder notes, with a good underlying acidity.

Kim Crawford SP Boyszone Marlborough Pinot Gris 2006 (12.5%; $29.95)is sourced entirely from the Boyszone vineryard. Slightly off dry, it has asilky texture, with an intriguing palate of lemon custard, apple skin, Asianpear and cantaloupe (called rock melon to New Zealanders). A smallportion was barrel fermented and underwent malolactic fermentation.Riesling was added prior to bottling to increase the acidity,Gewurztraminer for aromatics and Chardonnay for mouthfeel.

In the reds, SP Comely Bank Vineyard 2004 Marlborough Pinot Noir(14.0%; $29.95) also comes from a single vineyard. Refined andBurgundian in style, it has black cherry, cranberry and pomegranatearomas and flavours. SP Te Awanga Hawke’s Bay Merlot 2004 (13.4%;$29.95) is made from grapes grown 500 metres from the coast, giving itsavoury flavours from the onshore sea breezes. Cigar box, cedar andtobacco nuances meld together in this elegant wine. SP Hawke’s BayMerlot Cabernet Franc 2002 (14.0%; $29.95) is one of the oldest wines inthe Kim Crawford repertoire. A blend of 2/3 Merlot and 1/3 CabernetFranc, with American oak influence, it was aged for 4 years in bottlebefore release. Mint and eucalyptus scents underpin the mocha andcoffee flavours. It is a wine of understated elegance. e

L-R: Barbara Ritchie andwinemaker Maria Martinez-Sierra

Barbara Ritchie is a wine writer and lecturer. Having travelledextensively throughout the main wine-growing regions of theworld with her twin sister Ann, she regularly conducts wineseminars for major corporations and restaurant groups, whilealso participating in various wine judging panels worldwide,including Intervin. Her judging experience includes a sessionat Italy’s prestigious “Banco d’Assaggio”, held each year atLungarotti’s Le Tre Vaselle in Umbria, to assess wines fromthroughout Italy.

8 Elite ■ 15-2 ■ 2007

What’s fun about these recipes are that they are deliciousand easy All-Canadian summer recipes, developed by 5 ofour TOP young chefs from different provinces. These chefswere all contestants on the popular TV competition,CANADA’S NEXT GREAT CHEF, Season 2. Happy Cooking!

CanadianCanadian

BUTTER POACHED JUMBO SHRIMPWITH SOBA NOODLESRecipe by Matthew Dobry, Ontario, Silver Medal Winner,Canada˙s Next Great Chef Season 2

2 tbsp olive oil, divided 15 mL1 shallot, finely chopped 12 tbsp ginger, peeled and finely chopped 30mL1 clove garlic, minced 1 clove3 tbsp white wine 45 mL1 tbsp Knorr® Hollandaise sauce mix powder 15 mL5 tbsp 35% Cream 75 mL1/2 cup butter cut into small pieces 125 mL12 pcs jumbo shrimp (de-veined) 12 pcs1 bunch Ontario organic asparagus (cut 1” pieces) 1 bunch2 pcs Ontario organic baby carrots

(cut into 1/4˙s lengthwise 2 pcs3 cups cooked Soba noodles 750 mL1 cup chopped fresh coriander 250 mL

In a small saucepan heat 1 tbsp (15 mL) olive oil and addshallot, ginger and garlic and cook over medium-high heatuntil tender. Add white wine, Knorr® Hollandaise Sauce mixpowder and cream. Reduce heat and whisk in butter. Strainsauce through a fine sieve and discard aromatics.Add shrimp to the reserved sauce in a small saucepan. Keepover low heat, stirring occasionally until shrimp are cooked,about 5-6 minutes. In a large skillet, sauté the asparagusand carrots in remaining olive oil until tender-crisp. Add thebutter sauce, cooked soba noodles and coriander, toss welland heat through. Top with cooked shrimp and serve.

Prep Time: 20 minutesCook Time: 15 minutesMakes: 4 main course servings

Knorr Recipes Knorr Recipes

F O O DF O O D

Recipes and photos provided by Knorr Canada.

Elite ■ 15-2 ■ 2007 9

LEMON PEPPER TROUT ROULADEWITH BRAISED CABBAGE ANDPURPLE POTATO HASHRecipe by James Dillion, Newfoundland, Contestant,Canada˙s Next Great Chef Season 2

1/3 cup vegetable oil 75 mL2 tbsp Knorr® Lemon Pepper Marinade 30 mL10 to 12 oz trout fillet, skinned and boned 300 to 375 g

Cabbage and Potato Hash1/2 tsp cider vinegar 2 mL1 slice bacon, preferably double smoked, 1

diced2 cups thinly sliced Savoy cabbage 500 mL1/4 cup diced red onion 50 mL1 garlic clove, minced 11/4 cup Knorr® Chicken Broth 50 mL2 medium potatoes, preferably purple, 2

cooked and diced1/2 tsp Knorr® Lemon Pepper Marinade 2 mL

1. Whisk oil with 2 tbsp (30 mL) Knorr® Lemon PepperMarinade. Set aside 2 tbsp (30 mL).Place trout in a shallowdish and pour remaining mixture over top. Cover andrefrigerate, turning once, at least 4 hours but preferablyovernight. Remove trout from marinade (discard marinade)and pat dry. Tightly roll lengthwise in plastic wrap, jellyroll-fashion then place in freezer, about 30 minutes foreasier slicing. To reserved 2 tbsp (30 mL) marinade, whiskin vinegar.

2. To prepare hash, cook bacon in large frying pan untilnearly crisp. Add cabbage and onion and sauté until soft.Add garlic and Knorr® Chicken Broth, simmer uncovereduntil liquid is nearly evaporated. Stir in cooked potatoesand Knorr® Lemon Pepper Marinade. Cook until hot, addingchicken broth if mixture sticks.

3. Preheat oven to 400° F (200° C). Remove fish fromfreezer and discard plastic. Slice into 1-inch (2.5 cm) thickmedallions. Lightly oil a large frying pan and set over highheat. Cook both sides of fish just until golden, about 1minute a side (it will not be cooked through). Transfer to anovenproof dish and roast in preheated oven until it flakes,about 6 minutes.

4. Divide hash between 2 dinner plates. Then set fish ontop. Drizzle with reserved lemon pepper vinaigrette.

Prep time: 10 minutesMarinating time: overnightCooking time: 10 minutesRoasting time: 7 minutesMakes 2 servings

10 Elite ■ 15-2 ■ 2007

SEARED SALMON WITH JERUSALEMARTICHOKE PURÉE, KALE WITH LEMON AND DILL BEURRE BLANCRecipe by Josh Lauridsen, Nova Scotia, Contestant, Canada˙s Next GreatChef Season 2

Jerusalem Artichoke Purée and Kale2 lbs Jerusalem artichokes 1 kg1 carton Knorr® Chicken Broth 900 mL1/4 cup 10 % cream 50 mL

Salt and pepper to taste1 bunch kale 1 bunch2 tsp each butter and olive oil 10 mL4 salmon fillets, about 6 oz (180 g) each 4

Lemon and Dill Beurre Blanc1 tsp unsalted butter 5 mL1/2 shallot, minced 1/21/4 cup white wine 50 mL2 tbsp white wine vinegar 30 mL

Finely grated peel and juice of 1 lemon1/4 cup 35% cream 50 mL2 tsp Knorr® Lemon Dill Sauce Mix 10 mL1/4 cup unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces 50 mL1 tbsp freshly chopped dill 15 mL

1. Peel artichokes and cut into chunks. Bring 3 cups (750 mL) chickenbroth to a boil, add artichokes and cook until soft, about 15 minutes.Strain broth and reserve. Purée artichoke adding just enough broth thatmixture is the texture of mashed potatoes. Stir in cream and season withsalt and pepper.

2. Remove leaves from kale. Melt butter with oil over medium-high heat.Add kale and sauté a couple of minutes. Add remaining broth, then coverand reduce heat to low. Simmer until kale is tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Drainany liquid. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Season salmon with salt and pepper. Heat a large frying pan overmedium-high heat. Add salmon and cook just until a knife inserted incentre is warm, 8 to 10 minutes in total. Alternatively, roast in 400° F(200° C) oven about 10 minutes.

4. Melt 1 tsp (5 mL) butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Addshallot and cook until translucent. Add wine, vinegar, lemon peel, lemonjuice and bring to a boil. Reduce to about 2 tbsp (30 mL). Meanwhile,whisk Knorr® Lemon Dill Sauce mix into cream, then whisk into reducedwine. Whisk in butter a piece at a time, then lemon peel and dill. Keepwarm.

5. Reheat kale and artichoke purée if necessary. Divide kale between 4dinner plates. Place artichoke purée on top, followed by salmon. Drizzlewith beurre blanc. Garnish each with a few sprigs of fresh dill.

Prep time: 45 minutes • Cooking time: 30 minutes • Makes 4 servings

VEAL CHOP WITH RED WINE AND MUSHROOM SAUCERecipe by Julian Helman, Saskatchewan, Contestant, Canada˙s Next Great Chef Season 2

3 tbsp vegetable oil 45 ml1 tsp lemon juice 5 ml1 tbsp fresh rosemary leaves, finely chopped 15ml1 garlic clove, minced 14 veal chops, at least 1 1/2 inches (3.5 cm) thick 4

Salt and pepper

Red Wine and Mushroom Sauce1/2 cup each water and red wine 125ml1 tbsp each finely chopped onion, celery and carrot 15ml1/2 tsp finely chopped fresh thyme leaves 2ml2 tbsp Knorr® Demi Glace Sauce Mix 30ml1/4 cup sliced mushrooms, preferably wild pepper 50ml

1. Preheat oven to 450°F (240°C). In a small bowl, stir 2 tbsp (30 mL) oil withlemon juice, rosemary and garlic. Set aside. Lightly brush remaining oil overboth sides of chops and bottom of a large frying pan. Season chops with saltand pepper. Heat pan over medium-high heat. Add chops in 2 batches ifnecessary and cook until both sides are a deep golden brown. Transfer chopsto a rack set over a shallow-sided baking sheet. Drizzle rosemary mixture overtop. Roast in centre of preheated oven 12 to 15 minutes for medium-rare.

Elite ■ 15-2 ■ 2007 11

SHELLFISH GRATINRecipe by Lindsay Closson, PEI, Contestant, Canada˙s Next Great Chef Season 2

4 large round whole wheat or white buns 412 mussels, cooked 121 pkg Knorr® Sundried Tomato and Parmesan pasta mix 11/3 cup whipping cream 75 mL1 tbsp olive oil 15 mL1/2cup chopped green onions 125 mL1-1/2 lb lobster meat, cooked 375 g1 cup small scallops, cooked 250 mL1/2 cup grated mozzarella 125 mL1/4 cup grated parmesan 50 mL

1. Buns will be the bowls that hold the seafood mixture. To make “bowls”thinly slice off and discard top of bun. Scoop out inside leaving a 1/2 inch (1-cm) rim the whole way around. Remove cooked mussels from shells.

2. In a large frying pan, place Knorr® Sundried Tomato and Parmesan pastamix, 3 tbsp (45 mL) water, cream and oil. Follow package directions forcooking sauce. Stir in green onions and seafood. Heat until seafood is hot.

3. Preheat broiler. Place buns on a baking sheet. Stir cheeses together. Spoonsauce into buns. Sprinkle cheese on top and broil until lightly browned.

Prep time: 15 minutes • Cooking time: 10 minut • Makes 4 servings

2. Meanwhile, in a small saucepan, combine water and red wine. Bringto a boil. Add the onion, celery, carrot and thyme. Reduce heat andsimmer a couple of minutes. Dissolve Knorr Demi Glace Powder into 2tbsp (30 mL) cold water. Whisking vigorously, add to wine mixture. Bringto a boil then simmer 2 minutes. Strain,discarding vegetables. Returnsauce to pan and stir in mushrooms. Heat until mushrooms are tender,3 to 4 minutes. Season with pepper. Serve sauce over veal chops.

“Fine dining”, “fun” and “casual” are three words notusually linked together. But the current trend on the UKpub scene brings the three elements together beautifully.Traditionally, English pubs were for beer, darts anddominoes but the demands of the English public for moreplaces to relax and enjoy a good meal with family haveproduced a turnaround in business activity for thelicensed trade. (See sidebar.)

A recent road tour around the North East coast of England turned upsome rewarding dining experiences.

Aiming for the rich historical area of Seahouses in Northumberland,we travelled along the North Eastern coast and stopped for lunch justoutside South Shields, a traditional seaside resort catering to the cityfolk from Newcastle and Sunderland. A car park located on the top ofthe high cliffs outside town hides the entrance to an extremelyunusual restaurant. To reach our lunch destination, we took the clifftop elevator down to the beach level Bistro pub, and walked out ontoa wide beach terrace.

The Marsden Grotto fulfils the promise of its name. Excavated into therock of the cliff, the Grotto has been expanded over the centuries froma 17th Century smugglers cove. Advertised as the only cave bar inEurope, it is even said to be haunted by the ghost of John the Jibberwho betrayed his fellow smugglers in the 18th century. During

By Linda Hazelwood

Nuances NorthumberlandNuances

NorthumberlandNuances

NorthumberlandNuances

NorthumberlandOF

MEMORABLE FOOD IN THE NORTH EAST OF ENGLAND

Marsden Grotto and Elevator Shaft,from the beach

Clifftop entrance to Marsden Grotto

Marsden Grotto Cave Bar

T R AT R A V EV E LL

Elite ■ 15-1 ■ 2007 13

Until the mid-80s, public house premises were either:

Tied House. Owned by a brewery, with the product range limited to ales,wines and soft drinks sold from the brewery-owner’s range. The brewerycould put a salaried manager in place, or rent the building and business toa franchisee.

Free House. Owned by an individual or business, with a free product choicefrom any ale, wine or soft drink

Market forces and increasingly stringent drink-driving laws pushed publichouses into widening their product from just drink, to meals and a focusmore on the recreational needs of families with children. Many tied houseshave been freed, and the current trend is that many public houses areowned by restaurant chains. Their demographic is the family (offering roomswhere children can eat with parents) and the casual 20s – 50s diner whowants an interesting meal with public house comforts, not the more formalatmosphere of a restaurant. To this end, some pubs seem more to be “arestaurant with an extensive drinks range” than “a public house”.

licensed hours however, the pub is the haunt ofholidaymakers in search of some good old-fashionednorth of England food and drink. There are two options:the first floor Restaurant and Oyster Bar, and the beachlevel Bistro with open terrace. The menu for the Bistrocarries some traditional local favourites such as fried codin batter with chips, and Cumberland sausage servedwith scallion mashed potatoes and gravy. There is alsohaddock, and salmon. The fish is caught locally, so someoptions may be missing from the menu if the catch didn’tcome up to expectations. However, dishes such as KingTiger Prawns served in filo pastry or battered with a Thaisauce come from the demands of well-travelledholidaymaker’s tastes, and are not local dishes. The foodis well-cooked and plainly served in portions sufficientfor the largest appetite.

The Grotto section of the Bistro is decorated with netsand floats, remnants of the sadly reduced local fishingindustry. The outside terrace is set just above the pebblybeach, and each table has a very necessary umbrella,as the Marsden cliffs are the home of huge colonies ofKittiwakes, Fulmars and Gulls who provide anentertaining if noisy backdrop to your lunch. On a warm summer day the Grotto is great;during a storm it’s exciting!

Moving northwards we were aiming for Lindisfarne, or Holy Island, just off the coast nearBamburgh and Seahouses.

The island of Lindisfarne was first settled by monks in 635 AD, with a second monasterybeing built by Benedictine monks around 1066. Although the community can be reached byroad during low tide, twice a day the sea sweeps in to maroon the island community andtrap travellers who haven’t been watching the time!

On our way, we passed through Seahouses which used to be a fishing village but now derivesits main trade from tourists. The draw is day-long sea-fishing trips, and boat trips to viewthe seals and puffins on the nearby Farne Islands.

The most important watering hole in Seahouses is the The Olde Ship Inn, which is in sightof the harbour. “The Ship” is a residential hotel with a dining room, which also serves publunches although we didn’t have time to sample their menu on this visit. The Ship is wellworth a visit just to look at the fishing artefacts and memorabilia which festoon the bar. Sipfrom the range of more than twenty “real ales” on offer. But be warned, some pack a realpunch so make sure you’re not driving any further that day.

The next village north along the coast road is Bamburgh, which boasts an extremely largecastle set on a massive, 180-foot high basalt crag, giving all-round views of the coast andsurrounding countryside. Growing from a wooden fortification in 993 to its present state thecastle formed a major defence between the warring Scots and English, and also Vikinginvaders from the North Sea.

The Olde Ship Inn public bar, Seahouses

The Ship Inn bar decoration

In present times, the relentless invaders come by car, bus and foot, and find that theVictoria Hotel in Bamburgh Village gives a warm welcome for both formal and informaldiners. Built around 1893, the hotel has been tastefully restored and modernised. The largebar flows through three rooms, and what used to be a kitchen courtyard in the centre of thebuilding has been roofed over with glass to form a chic Brasserie.

At lunchtime in the bar we ate from the starter menu, and were glad we did as the portionswere more than enough for a light lunch. Peppered Mackerel with Creamed HorseradishSauce was fresh and spicy, while the Prawn Baguette was stuffed full of large prawns andcovered with a Marie Rose sauce. This was served with savoury chips and mixed greens. Themain courses roamed the world, offering Chicken Curry with Nann bread; Irish Stew; BeefChilli, Savoury Mince (ground beef) and Vegetable Lasagne. The food was so good wereturned in the evening to eat in the Brasserie, and can especially recommend the GlororumLamb Shank on Sweet Potato Mash with Port & Redcurrant Jus. Served with seasonalvegetables, it was the highlight of our dining party. The chef is meticulous in his use offresh local produce, with crabs, mussels, lamb, wild boar and salmon all provided from thearea.

We also checked out a menu planned for a celebration dinner, and were impressed by thechef’s preparation to suit a wide range of palates. The main courses included SearedSwordfish on Salmon Mash with Tiger Prawns; Roast Belly Pork with Pink fir sautéed

potatoes and Thyme Jus; Chicken Lindisfarne with aTimbale of Tarragon Wild Rice, and for the vegetarian, aLeek and Red Onion Bake topped with a Nettle CheeseHerb Crust. The use of fresh fruit and local cheeses wasevident in the dessert menu, offering Gooseberry Crumblewith warm Crème Anglaise, Banoffee Pie with freshstrawberries, Raspberry Brulee with Brandy Snaps, andNorthumbrian cheese on the savoury platter.

Complementing the culinary delights, the sommelier hascollected a well-balanced cellar from around the world.Seven wines are available by the bottle or glass, withanother eight white, eleven red, two sparkling and twochampagne varieties available by the bottle. For thosewho don’t have the opportunity to attend wine-tastings,each variety is described on the wine list. For instance, aVina Chilcaya Reserva Merlot from Chile was describedas having aromas of paprika spice and vanilla followed

by intense flavours of sweet black fruit, dark chocolate and mint, all wrapped in a softmouth feel and closing with a long warming finish. Sancerre ‘Le Mont Fleuri’ named thevineyard and the region to assist in the wine-lover’s search for excellence. From the Drouet,Loire, France, we were told that the crisp Sauvignon flavours were preserved by coolfermentation and the complex aromas combined to produce a wonderfully elegant wine. Amedium-bodied South African Nederburg Sauvignon Blanc Chardonnay was long on thepalate and had aromas of peach, guava and jasmine with a flavour of fresh, zingy fruit.Hmm - first choose the wine - and then match the food!

The North East coast of England can offer harsh weather, but the quality and variety of foodon offer from the various eating places has improved tremendously over the past few years.The area is well worth a visit – check the websites below for more information:• www.visitbritain.com • www.lindisfarne.org.uk • www.bamburghcastle.com • www.seahouses.org • www.northumberland.gov.uk/vg/seahouses

The Victoria Hotel Al fresco

Bamburgh Castle at sunset

Traditional phone box and Bamburgh Castle

Linda Hazelwood is a freelance writer and photographer who also publishes HorseCountry, the magazine for prairie horse people. She can be reached ateditor@horsecountry.ca.

e

Elite ■ 15-2 ■ 2007 15

f you're smelling butterscotch, vanilla,toast, creamed corn or caramel in that wine

you just poured yourself a glass of, chances are ithas been oak treated. Generally speaking,

winemakers put wine in oak for several reasons: to harmonizeand integrate flavours, soften and round out the palate, addaromatics and reduce tannin in reds. Why oak and not maple orcedar, you might ask? Oak seems to be a natural choicebecause it is hard, supple, watertight, displays anatural affinity to wine, and adds certainqualities and components that compliment andenhance wine’s flavour.

That having been said, how tight its grains are,where the oak is from, how old it is, the size of thebarrel made from it, its preparation, and how long winespends in it, are the keys to exactly what extent its character can beexhibited in a finished vino.

White oak is what is used for wine because it is less porous and morewatertight than other colours. Some white oak has looser grains and sometighter. Loose-grained versions tend to be more tannic imparting largeramounts of vanillas and tannins into a wine. Tighter-grained is moredelicate in its affect.

Most winemakers use oak that comes from either America or Europe.American oak, usually hailing from Minnesota, Iowa, Missouri, Wisconsinand Arkansas, is loose-grained providing much more in-your-facearomatics and flavours of vanilla, spice, figs, coconut and astringency.European oak can be both loose and tight-grained but the majority istight. This style adds smoother, subtler flavours like toasty vanilla andbiscuit to wine. The world’s major source of this type of oak, and mostexpensive, is France. In fact, there are so many forests in France thattimber from individual forests all provide slightly different nuances towine that is treated with it. Oak also comes from some of the Balkancountries like Slovenia and Hungary but it tends to be a little more tannicand sappy.

Generally, the newer the oak used, the more vanilla and tannin the wineabsorbs. The older the oak, the less its effect. After a barrel isapproximately 4 years of age, its effect is drastically reduced, basicallybecoming a holding container for wine imparting very little, if any,complexity. When it comes to barrels, size does matter. The smaller thebarrel, the more interaction between wine and wood. As a winemaker, youcan actually order your barrels toasted on the inside. The barrels are

placed over an open flame and charred to your specifications(light, medium or high toast), so whatever wine is placed in that

barrel will take on its character. Most producers prefer medium toast.Finally, how long wine spends in barrel determines its effect. The longertime spent in barrel, the oakier the wine. Some producers actually fermenttheir wines in barrels creating extremely oaky wines.

So if you want to make a big, bold, aggressive, oaky, red wine?You might choose a smaller, new, American oak barrel with

medium toast and age your wine in it for 12 months ormore. If you want a lighter attack, you might opt for new,French oak, possibly transfer the wine to older barrels

after several months or not use new oak at all. These, andmany other combinations, are all decisions the winemaker

must make when considering finishing off a wine. Of course,keeping in mind that certain grape varieties and wine styles vary

in the amount of oak they can successfully handle and some don’t workwell with oak at all, is imperative.

There’s no question that oak is an important tool when it comes towinemaking and can add much to its character. However, understandingits use and applying it appropriately, is an art form unto itself. e

Edward Finstein, “The Wine Doctor” is an award-winningauthor, TV host, renown wine journalist, international winejudge, Professor of Wine and consultant. His website is:www.winedoctor.ca A personally-signed copy of my award-winning wine book, “Ask the Wine Doctor” (McClelland &Stewart) is available through my office. Gift certificates

always available. Private and corporate tastings available upon request.

W I N EW I N E

I

Oak & WineBy Edward Finstein

Fermentations:

Oak & Wine

16 Elite ■ 15-2 ■ 2007

O F S P E C I A L I N T E R E S TO F S P E C I A L I N T E R E S T

NORTH POLE ADVENTURES FOR 2007Looking for ultimate challenges? No matter your timeline, budget or need foran adrenalin rush, The Northwest Passage can accommodate. For costs andpackage details, you can visit www.polarexplorers.com or call 1-800-732-7328.

FESTIVALS & EVENTS IN ONTARIO UNTIL 2008You can now obtain the “Festivals & Events in Ontario Guide for2007/208” which lists more than 850 of such happenings that includesporting, multicultural, arts and nature events. To obtain your copy, call1-800-ONTARIO.

TEMPTATIONS IN WINE COUNTRYUntil September 3, 2007: Niagara-on-the-Lake, OntarioA new gourmet experience from Vintage Hotels offers a luxurious getawayin the heart of Canada’s wine country. The package includes a luxuriousovernight stay in one of three Vintage Hotels; a wine and food tastingexperience at Peller Estates, a full breakfast for two, and a $25 credit toindulge in a decadent dinner at any Vintage Hotels dining room. Call 1-888-669-5566 to order your package, or visit www.vintage-hotels.com.

AUSTRALIAN REGIONAL HEROES’ TASTINGSeptember 2007: Across CanadaThis ‘invitation only’ trade tasting of wines from specific regions, orGeographic Indicators, will take place will be held in each of the followingcities:Vancouver: Tuesday, September 18 - Rocky Mountaineer StationCalgary: Thursday, September 20 - Artists of the WorldMontreal: Tuesday, September 25 - The Montreal Science CentreToronto: Thursday, September 27 - The Design ExchangeFor complete information contact Wine Australia at 416 323-1893 or visitwww.wineaustralia.com.

17TH SANTA FE WINE AND CHILE FIESTASeptember 26-30, 2007: Santa Fe, New MexicoThis gathering of 60 of Santa Fe’s finest restaurants and 90 wineries willfeature: Guest Chef Luncheons, where local chefs mingle with thoselooking for wine and cheese pairings hailing from Spain; or Slow Foodpreparations; wine seminars; blind tastings; and discussions onbiodynamic, organic and sustainable wineries. For more information onthis exciting event e-mail Jennifer@ballantinespr.com or visitwww.ballantinespr.com.

8TH ANNUAL WINE SOUTHSeptember 28-30, 2007: Atlanta, GeorgiaThis event will feature three days of grape lovers’ bliss and will highlighta new assortment of fine wines, as well as Atlanta-area restaurants. As aprelude to the Grand Festival (September 29 and 30), the weekend beginson September 28th with a Reserve Event at the Grant Hyatt Hotel inBuckhead with a Champagne reception and auction item preview. WineSouth promotes the wine industry while increasing knowledge andappreciation of wine and food, with local charities benefiting from thefunds raised. Complete information can be obtained by going towww.winesouth.com.

CHÂTEAU DES CHARMES EVENTSUntil October 2007Whether it’s the second annual Canadian Smooth Jazz Concert, the“Niagara Farm to Table Experience” or the fall Harvest Feast, there areplenty of events being offered by Château des Charmes at their Niagara-on-the-Lake winery. For a complete listing of activities, visitwww.chateaudescharmes.com.

CHILEAN WINE & FOOD FESTIVALOctober 3, 2008: Toronto, OntarioThe 2007 edition will include a trade tasting, by invitation only from 2:00-4:30 p.m., followed by a consumer tasting from 7:00-9:30 p.m. The eventwill take place in the Fermenting Cellar of the Distillery Historic District.For information write to tickets@forefrontcom.com or call Sandy Kurbis at416 398-3335 ex. 2.

THE SECRET CRUISEOctober 6-13, 2007: San Diego, CaliforniaOffered by Bob Proctor – star of the blockbuster documentary “The Secret”- this Mexican Riviera cruise will combine relaxation with self-improvement. Ports of call will include Cabo San Lucas, Mazatlan, andPuerto Vallarta. For more details, visit www.bobproctorcruise.com or call1-877-708-2546.

INDEPENDENT SPIRITS FESTOctober 13, 2007: San Francisco, CaliforniaThis first annual event is a unique exhibition of hand crafted creationsexclusively of micro-craft distillers and independent bottlers. Highlyeducational, this intimate event will open your eyes to the revolution inhandcrafted artisan created spirit which is sweeping the nation and theworld! Visit www.celticmalts.com for information.

GRAND CRU CULINARY WINE FESTIVAL: WINE TASTING & AUCTIONNovember 1, 2007: Toronto, OntarioTime and venue have yet to be announced, but you may wish to mark yourcalendars now for this event. The proceeds will support research atToronto General and Toronto Western hospitals. For more information,contact Mary Claire Jankowski at 416 340-4800 ex. 6279.

Calendar of EventsCalendar of Events

22ND ANNUAL OTTAWA WINE SHOWNovember 2-4, 2007: Ottawa, OntarioThis popular event will take place in the Ottawa Congress Centre. Complete details are availableby writing to wineshow@playerexpo.com or calling 613 567-6408.

CORNUCOPIANovember 8-12, 2007: Whistler, B.C.Whistler’s Annual Celebration of Wine and Food is set to return, and it will include an expandedlineup of delectable wine and food grazing and tasting events; an exciting array of educationaland entertaining culinary seminars and chef demonstrations, as well as the signature tasting event Crush!- now running on two evenings. For complete details, visitwww.whistlercornucopia.com.

6TH INTERNATIONAL VINE AND OLIVE-GROWINGTECHNIQUES EXHIBITION AND 22ND SIMEI EXHIBITIONNovember 13-17, 2007: Rho (Milan) ItalyThese two events will take place concurrently in the new exhibition centre of Fiera Milano. Thefirst, olive-growing techniques, will look at the most functional and state-of-the-art techniquesfor olive growing and transformation into oil. The SIMEI exhibition will be the most importantbiennial world exhibition for machines, equipment and products for oenology and beverageproduction, bottling and packaging. For information, contact press@enovitis.it or visitwww.enovitis.it.

SAN DIEGO BAY WINE & FOOD FESTIVALNovember 14-18, 2007: San Diego, CaliforniaThis feast of the senses will feature 160 of the world’s top wine and spirits producers, along withSan Diego’s award-winning fine dining restaurants, celebrity chefs, legendary winemakers, winetasting and cooking classes. Proceeds from the live and silent auctions will benefit the AmericanInstitute of Wine & Food culinary and enology scholarships for students and professionals in SanDiego. For more details, write to mmetter@worldofwineevents.com.

GOURMET FOOD & WINE EXPONovember 15-17, 2007: Toronto, OntarioIf you’re interested in the latest food and wine trends then this event, which is held in the MetroToronto Convention Centre, may be of interest to you. Contact 1-866-414-0454 ex. 309, visitwww.foodandwineshow.ca, or write to Jennifer@foodandwineshow.ca for more details.

8TH VINITALY CHINANovember 23-25, 2007: Shanghai, ChinaBuilding on the experience gained over many years of operation in Italy, the Far East, Russia and theUSA, Veronafiere will once again offer Vinitaly China in November 2007. Information can be obtainedby e-mailing pressoffice@veronafiere.it.

MONTREAL HIGH LIGHTS FESTIVALFebruary 20-March 2, 2008: Toronto, OntarioTaking over from this year’s featured city, New York, Toronto will host the 9th edition of this AirFrance Wine and Dine Experience which will be presented by American Express. Regarded as oneof the great dining cities in North America, Toronto is also renowned for its numerous festivals,including the winter “Toronto Wintercity Festival”. Famous Toronto chef Susur Lee will be theHonorary President at this upcoming edition, which will feature Chile, whose wine products are highly sought by Quebecers and also enjoying growing popularity. Visitwww.montrealenlumiere.com for full details.

PROWEIN 2008March 16-18, 2008: Duesseldorf, GermanyCelebrating its 15th anniversary, the event will follow on the heels of the 2007 edition which sawa record-breaking number of exhibitors, visitors and media in attendance. For furtherinformation, visit www.prowein.de.

15TH SELECTIONS MONDIALES DES VINSMay 30 – June 5, 2008: Quebec City, QuebecThis largest international wine competition in North America will showcase more than 1700products from 600 producers, represented by nearly 30 countries. For complete details, contactGhislain K-Laflamme at info@smvcanada.ca or visit www.smvcanada.ca. e

18 Elite ■ 15-2 ■ 2007

Today, visitors to Jerez can pick orange mandarins from trees that linemany of the streets. They’ll also have to contend with some seriousconstruction that is taking place throughout the city, including the citycentre/shopping district. For history buffs, the ancient town boasts thepartially restored 11th century Moorish castle ‘Alcazaba’.

Cadiz, which goes back to 1000 B.C. was founded by the Phoenicians, whoalso founded Xera (around 700 B.C.), believed to be today’s Jerez. The cityalways exported wine, and was the centre for wines that could travel (theancient “Ceret” originally fortified the wines to stabilize them for travel).

Geography is Everything Sherry is unique in that it is a geographical wine, not a style of wine. It isproduced in the Sherry Region, which is roughly shaped in a triangle andencompasses three sherry towns at each of its apex. Inland is Jerez de laFrontera; on the bay of Cadiz is the port of El Puerto de Santa Maria, andthe third is located on the estuary of the Guadalquivir – the beachsidetown of Sanlucar de Barrameda.

Sherry’s production is a combination of nature, tradition and technology.Comprising 10,500 Ha of DOC vineyards, the area produces 620 litres persq. metre. The vines, grown on a white chalky soil (albariza – whichcaptures and retains the rainfall, usually between November andFebruary) are affected by both easterly and westerly winds.

Grapes are 90% handpicked, usually between mid-August andSeptember. The utilization of mechanical harvesters makes economicalsense, and allows the possibility of harvesting at night.

The ProcessSherry is one of the most versatile of wines and can accompany almostany kind of food. In order to be called ‘sherry’, the wine must go throughFlor. This rare phenomenon occurs when the yeast called Flor Del Vino(Flor for short) develops in the cool, humid conditions which exist in thearea. The smooth creamy layer on top of the wine protects the wine fromoxidation and keeps it fresh as it ages. The thicker the flor is on the butts,the better and drier the sherry.

SherrySherry

W I N EW I N E Sherry with ‘flor’ on top

Article and photos by Anna Cavaliere and W.C. Enoteca

EXPLORING THE WORLD OF

Part 2 of 2

Situated between the Andalusian cities of Seville and Cadiz is the city of Jerez de la Frontera. Although it ismostly known for its sweet wines - ‘sherry’ - ( derived from the Arab name ‘sherish’ and pronounced ‘sherry’by the British), Jerez is also renowned for its flamenco dancing, great singers, and fine horses.

THE IMPORTANCE OF ORIGIN

Sherry is always blended in the ‘solera’ method, thus it is rare that thereis a vintage since the end-product is usually a blend of Soleras whichbegan in different years. A collection of butts of the same wine is knownas a Solera. In simple terms, a certain amount of wine is sporadicallydrawn off and the solera refreshed with a slightly younger wine, drawnfrom a Criadera (or nursery) within the solera. Maturation in the solerasystem makes the tannins in sherry much softer than those found in wine.Since 3-4% of total volume is lost to evaporation, the wine becomes morehighly concentrated.

Blending is more than a craft, it uses all the winemaker’s senses,particularly that of smell. Fortification is accomplished by the addition ofpure grape spirit, in varying degrees, to increase the alcohol strength: (a) fino – up to 15% and (b) oloroso – up to 17%.

Aged at least 3 years, and usually much longer, the different level ofalcohol will determine future aging of the sherry in the cask. “Crianza” isthe aging of sherry in 600 litre ‘botos’ which are only filled to 500 litres.In the case of Sherry, the barrel is a container, not a flavouring element asis the case with wine.

Wine is classified, between December and January, into Pale and Light(fino which, in Jerez, is consumed instead of table wine), or the heavierand darker (oloroso).

SHERRY PRODUCERSLustau, began modestly in 1896 when Don Jose Ruiz-Berdezocultivated the vines of his estate just outside Jerez, and then stored thewine in his vineyard house, later to be sold to a large exporting bodega.Today, the newer 5-year old ‘bodega’ accommodates 2,600 barrels (600litre capacity), the contents of which have been aged an average of 30

years. The facility’s high ceilings keep the barrels cool in the summer,while the albariza soil on the floor, sprinkled twice a day during thesummer (or 3-5 times a week if the winds are from the east), ensures anideal humidity level. The tasting featured the remarkable Lustau “Anada1989” Oloroso Abocado (20% alc.). Aged 14 years, it displays a distinctivenose, offers a smooth velvet finish on the palate, and will pair brilliantlywith foie gras. Another fine example is the Lustau Solera Reserva “SanEmilio” Pedro Ximenez Sherry, a supreme dessert wine that stays on thepalate for a long finish. Their exceptional VORS (very old rare sherry, up to30 years old) is stored in the company’s ‘Sacristia’. Lustau won multiplemedals in the International Wine Challenge competition in London in2005, along with other regional and national competitions. It has alsobeen named the “Best Bodega in the World for Producing Fortified Wines”.As a side business, this company stores sherry in casks for 2-3 years, andthen sends it to whiskey distillers.

Gonzalez Byass Tio Pepe, originally founded by Manuel MariaGonzales in 1835 as Real Bodega la Concha, merged with Byass in 1855.With offices in London, Mexico and now also in New York, today thecompany exports to 150 countries, with a staggering 6 million bottles oftheir Tio Pepe Fino Palomino (15% alc.) being sold worldwide. Modern andfashionable, it adapts well to new cuisine as well as salad, cheese,seafood and tapas. This ultra-dry wine, with its yeasty and pungentaroma, should be served very chilled.

Allowed to evolve naturally, and all at the hands of the winemaker, is theexceptional Apostoles Palo Cortado Palomino (20% alc), made with 10%Pedro Ximenez. Created from amontillado, it offers a delicious toasty nosearoma and a touch of sweetness on the finish. It partners splendidly withred or game meat.

Barrels stored in Lustau cellar

A small section of the Bodegas Royal Tour, whichholds 250 barrels of La Concha Amontilado

For dessert, the Noe Pedro Ximenerz(15.5% alc.) is the perfectmeditation wine. Dark, very sweetand thick in texture it is powerful onits own in a small glass, but greatover vanilla ice cream, or served atroom temperature with cheese.Depending on personal preferences,it can even be enjoyed ‘on therocks’. Although this wine can bekept for months once the bottle isopened, the purchase of thesmaller-size format is advisable.

Ninety-minute public tours, given indifferent languages and at differenttimes, are available at this bodega7 days a week. Reservations are notrequired, and the cost isapproximately 8 euros.

Bodegas Williams &Humbert S.A., established in1877 by Alexander Williams with hisbrother-in-law Arthur Humbert, withits stock of sherry and brandytotaling over 40 million litres, istoday the largest in Europe. Theuniquely shaped roof (resemblingan inverted umbrella), that coversthe 54,000 sq. metres wineryfacility, collects rain which is storedin the basement then used to spraythe floors daily. With five bottlinglines, 45,000 bottles per hour areprocessed. The company’s flagship,Dry Sack Medium Dry, is a blend offinest old Amontillado Oloroso andsweet wine (Pedro Ximenez). Withan average age of 6 years, thismellow wine delivers a fullmouthfeel along with the intensearoma of nuts. Crema de Alba, theSome exquisite Bodegas Williams & Humbert products

The grounds of Gonzalez Byass Tio Pepe

Javier Medina of Bodegas Williams & Humbert

only cream liqueur made from Solera Gran Reserva Jerezbrandy, offers chocolate and vanilla tones on the mouth.The higher end Gran Duque de Alba Solera Gran Reserva(average 20 years), is produced from low strength winedistillates (holandas) and aged in American oak. Itssuperb quality can be attributed to the grapes that aresourced from the best district and picked at just theright point of ripeness.

Sandeman’s logo of a student sporting a Portuguesecape and a Spanish hat is recognized worldwide. Thecompany, which was among the first producers to labeland advertise its wines, is today dedicating its efforts topromote the many new faces of sherry. It wants to dispelthe long-held view held by many that Sherry is just forcooking. An extensive tasting of Sandeman productsintroduced us to Royal Ambrosonte (20+ years old). Adark, rich and thick wine made from Old Solera PedroXimenez, it is decadent when served with dark chocolateor rich cakes. Sandeman has specialized in producingmedium/dry wines, one being Character which startssweet and finishes dry. It can be served slightly chilled,but also on ice with lemon or Sprite. This wine is a greataccompaniment with creamy cheeses, stuffed pastries, stew, mushrooms, artichokes,and foie gras. Once opened, it can be kept for one month in the refrigerator, or storedin a dark place if you prefer the wine at room temperature. Tours at a cost of 6 eurostake place at Sandeman headquarters.

HarveysHarveys Bristol Cream, which has an average of 30 soleras, ranks #1 in the world. Thecompany’s roots can be traced back to 1796 when William Berry founded the companyin Bristol, England (Bodega del Brigadier) with 20,000 casks. Eugenia Herrera Garcia,the company’s Public Relations Manager guided us through the winery’s illustrioushistory. The 1100 hectometres of vineyards, planted mainly with Palomino Fino (90%)and Pedro Ximenez (10%), enjoy sea breezes which impart much needed humidity tothe vines. A great introduction to sherry drinking is one of their newer products, theappealing Harveys Orange (Bristol Cream plus orange), just recently released in theUK. Another exemplary sherry is Harveys Palo Cortado, an exceptional age, whichoffers the delicacy of Amontillado and the body of Oloroso.

Part of mural at Sandeman’s headquarters

Ms. Eugenia Herrera Garcia, Public Relations Manager, Harveys

Harveys vines planted on the sponge-like and chalky Albariza soil

More aboutSherry...More aboutSherry...Sherry Varieties Fino and Manzanilla must be chilled, kept in therefrigerator and drunk within 2-3 days of opening. Serve ina Sherry glass, shaped like a tulip bud, although a whitewine glass will also do the job.

A true Amontillado is dry and nutty tasting, and goesbeautifully with light meat or clear soups as well asscallops, sardines and game dishes. Serve cool, notchilled as a Fino however, and always in a white wineglass.

Oloroso and Palo CortadoIn Spanish, oloroso means ‘fragrant’. The oloroso wines arerich and aromatic, a deep gold in colour, with a smooth andvelvety taste on the palate. The Palo Cortado lies betweenan Oloroso and Amontilado. This wine can be sipped, as well as drunk,from a white wine glass and marries beautifully with rich foods such ascheeses, and rich meats like venison and smoked meats. Sweet Olorosoand Cream are perfect as after-dinner digestif, or savoured with fruit-based desserts. This wine can be served year round - slightly chilled inthe summer or at room-temperature during the cold winter months.

Sherry’s SealDiscerning connoisseurs of sherry know that true sherry comes from theSherry region of Jerez. Since producers can only sell a percentage of theirproduction, a ratio of one barrel for every three barrels that are in stock,there is a reduced risk of glutting the market. It also ensures that thereare future quantities for blending. One way that you can assure yourselfof the authenticity of the sherry is that the bottle carries the seal of theConsejo Regulador de las Denominaciones de Origen.

In response to market demand for very old sherries, more recently thisgoverning body established two special designations:

VOS – sherry more than 20 years oldVORS – sherry more than 30 years old

To qualify for either of these designations, the sherry must pass rigoroustesting by an independent tasting panel. Only when this is accomplisheddoes the respective designation appear on the label.

More and more, consumers are becoming aware of the importance oflocation when it comes to wine production, and are insisting on accuratelabeling. In fact, a national survey in December 2006 of U.S. consumersindicated that “81% agreed that wines should only be allowed to use a

specific geographic name on their labels if they areactually made in that location”. (Fairbank, Maslin &Associates, 11/7-13).

The Joint Declaration to Protect Wine Place Names &Origin, signed by the original seven foundingmembers – Napa Valley, Oregon, Washington, WallaWalla Valley, Champagne, Porto and Jerez – has nowexpanded its base. Joining the coalition are the wineregions of Sonoma County and Paso Robles(California); Chianti Classico (Italy); Tokaj (Hungary)and Victoria & Western Australia (Australia).

It is evident that positive strides are being made.Just recently, Napa Valley was the first NorthAmerican wine region to be recognized as aGeographical Indication (GI) by the European Union.

With these safeguards now in place why would theconsumer settle for imitations, when the ‘real’ sherrycan be purchased?!

22 Elite ■ 15-2 ■ 2007

Cesar Saldana, Director General of the ConsejoRegulador de las Denominaciones de Origen.

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The Council Chambers of theConsejo Regulador de las Denominaciones de Origen

Elite ■ 15-2 ■ 2007 23

Summer is in the air. The most obvious way one canrejoice would be to celebrate the positive change inweather. The first inclination to this statement one

may have would be to fire up the backyard grill, howevermornings and breakfasts are just as commemorative in ourhome.

After the “April showers bringing May flowers”, we definitelyneed an excuse to sit outside and enjoy breakfast on thefront porch, and summer is the perfect time with the warmertemperatures.

A popular traditional breakfast of our family is EggsBenedict served with a cheese sauce instead of the classichollandaise. I have transformed it one step further by usingwhite cheddar for the sauce and including one of my favoritetastes - roasted red bell peppers. Roasting bell peppers iseasier than one may perceive and it creates a sweeter tastethan in the raw form, plus it gives us the excuse to fire upthe grill in the morning. Essentially the thin skins of the bellpepper become charred, and once led they are easily peeledoff giving the pepper a more delicate bite.

Many people find traditional hollandaise sauce somewhatproblematic and face countless circumstances of having thesauce separate and become curdled. Having a cheese saucemakes Eggs Benedict more approachable with less chanceof failure. The other appealing aspect of this recipe is thepreparation. It can be easily divided amongst familymembers for a combined effort, or the peppers and saucecan be prepared the day prior if necessary.

I hope this breakfast helps to make summer mornings aspecial time in your home, as it does in ours. Although it isthe perfect recipe for the vegetarian in your circle of familyor friends, meat lovers will still enjoy this unique approachto this classic breakfast.

Chef Dez is Western Canada’s own FoodColumnist, Culinary Instructor and CookingShow performer. Visit him at www.chefdez.com

Roasted Pepper Vegetarian Eggs BenedictRecipe created by Chef Dez/Gordon DesormeauxMakes four single egg servings

2 large red bell peppers2 tbsp olive oil1/2 tsp Worcestershire saucepinch of salt1/4 cup butter1/4 cup flour1 1/2 to 2 cups milk2 cups grated white cheddar1/2 tsp saltpinch of ground white pepper4 large eggs, poached2 English muffins, split and toasted

Preheat your Bar-be-que with a medium/high flame.

Visualizing the peppers as cubes, cut the 4 sides off each of the bell peppers, and thenthe bottoms and tops (discarding the stems, inner seeds and membranes). Toss withthe olive oil. Place them on the preheated grill and cook until the skins have becomesomewhat charred, turning the pieces over halfway.

Remove the red peppers from the grill and place in an air-tight covered glass bowl forat least 10 to 20 minutes – the steam from the heat of the peppers will help loosen theskins. Remove the peppers from the bowl - peel and discard the skins.

Reserve 4 of the largest pieces of roasted pepper for the final presentation, whileplacing the remaining pieces in a food processor. To the food processor also add theWorcestershire sauce and the pinch of salt. Purée on high speed for 30 to 60 seconds.Remove this mixture and press through a fine wire mesh strainer to create a smoothpurée. Set this aside as a garnishing sauce.

In a heavy bottomed small saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Stir in the flourand continue to cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, to cook the starchy taste outof the flour, approximately 5 to 7 minutes. Add the 1 1/2 cups milk very slowly whilewhisking into the butter/flour mixture. It will get extremely thick at first, but keepworking in small amounts of the milk at a time to prevent lumps. Turn the heat tomedium once all of the milk has been incorporated. Add the grated cheese andcontinue to whisk constantly until the mixture thickens and just comes to a boil. If thesauce is too thick then add the extra milk to thin it out. Remove from the heat and setaside. Season with the 1/2 teaspoon of salt and the white pepper.

Poach the eggs, toast the muffins, and assemble as follows: per serving place onemuffin half, one roasted red pepper slice, one egg, top with hot cheese sauce, andgarnish with the roasted red pepper sauce. e

SummerIs In the Air!SummerIs In the Air!

CHEF DEZ on COOKING:F O O DF O O D

W I N EW I N E

The Changing Face of South African PinotagePeter Mielzynski Agency hosted a seminar on how South Africanwinemakers are trying to revamp the reputation of their unique Pinotagevarietal. This is a hybrid varietal, made in 1924 by crossing Pinot Noirand Cinsault. The seeds were planted near Stellenbosch in 1925. It wasnot until 1941 that the first Pinotage was produced in South Africa.

Pinotage makers consider this varietal to be strongly associated withtraditional, rather than new world winemaking. Because it is an earlierripening grape in a hot climate, it typically has high alcohol content. Ittends to have an intrinsic bitterness, largely derived from viticulturalaspects such as canopy (leaf cover) and vine vigour, resulting in winesthat prompt tasting descriptors such as burnt rubber, bandaide, andrusty nails. The Pinotage Association, to which two-thirds of Pinotageproducers in South Africa belong, is making a concerted effort to changethis. To do this, they are attempting to reduce the inherent high yields ofthis varietal and no longer aspire to emulating the big, juicy, jammy NewWorld wine style that have become so popular. Cobus Joubert of CapeLegend Wines led us through a tasting of seven Pinotages to demonstratethe various styles coming out of the Cape.

2005 Stellenzicht Golden Triangle Pinotage from Stellenbosch is a brightcherry coloured wine, with red licorice and cherry flavours. 2003Jacobsdal Pinotage, also from Stellenbosch, exhibits warmer, rounder redfruit. Because it is made only from free run juice, there are no greentannins in the wine. Intensely fruit driven, with lifted spice, this is acharming wine. 2004 Tukulu Papkuilsfontein Pinotage, from the Darlingregion, is a product of one of the top Pinotage wineries. It has accentedflavours of dark blackberries, black cherries and red currants.

2003 Neethlingshof ‘Lord Neethling’ Pinotage, also from Stellenbosch,comes from a cooler climate. Deep plum coloured, with excellent fruitextraction, it is a very mellow wine, with soft vanilla and spicy notesintermingling with black fruit flavours. 2003 Beyerskloof PinotageReserve, from Stellenbosch, is garnet brick coloured. Dark fruits andprunes come through on the nose and palate, giving way to more of araisin component than red fruit. 2005 Camberley Pinotage (Stellenbosch)has red plum hues. Elegant and refined in character, it has silky tanninsand soft fruit flavours, despite an extended hang time which translatesinto 15-15 1/2 % alchohol. 2004 Ashbourne Pinotage, from Walker Bay, isa more austere wine, with pronounced tannins.

Domaine Chandon – Known for Their Sparkling WinesThe connection between France’s Moet & Chandon and California’sDomaine Chandon started in 1973. Though the Napa Valley winery’sorigins date back to 1690, it did not venture into sparkling wines untilafter this link up, with its first release in 1976. Since then, it has forgeda reputation for ultra and super-premium sparkling California wines,using the classic Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay varietals.

Tom Tiburzi joined the winery in 1989 and has been their sparklingwinemaker since mid-2005. The son of an Italian immigrant who ran asuccessful retail wine and spirits distribution business, his knowledgereflects his degree in Environmental Studies in Biology at Berkeley. Hiswife, Sherri, brought them to the Napa Valley when she became the pastrychef at Domaine Chandon. He led us through a tasting in Toronto this May.

As Tom explained, ‘high alcohol is the enemy of sparkling wine’. Grapesfor sparkling wine are therefore picked at a lower sugar level (18-20degree versus 25-26 degree Brix) than for flat wines, since fermentationconverts sugar into alcohol. The art of making sparkling wine lies in theblending. When Chardonnay is part of the blend, not as much time spenton the yeast is needed to create creaminess on the palate.

Domaine Chandon makes three tiers of sparkling wine – Classic, Reserveand L’Etoille. The style they strive for in their Classic tier is an overtlyCalifornia one, with vibrant fruit and a soft, creamy palate from less thanone year in contact with the yeast. Reserve sparkling wines are bigger,more robust wines. Not Californian in style, this tier focuses less on thefruit and more on developed flavours. Etoille is more feminine in stylethan the Reserve with greater depth of fruit.

&&Wining DiningWining DiningBy Margot Ritchie

Elite ■ 15-2 ■ 2007 25

In their Classic tier, Domaine Chandon Brut Classic is a soft, yet dry blendof 58% Pinot Noir, 29% Chardonnay and 11% Pinot Meunier. DomaineChandon has been reducing the latter over time as they are using thisvarietal in their still wines. With a vibrant fruit profile, from less time onthe yeast, apple and pear flavours lead into a creamy soft palate.Domaine Chandon Blanc de Noirs has an unconventional copper hue,which adds to its appeal. Most producers strive for a colourless wine byminimizing skin contact. This blend of 78% Pinot Noir, 14% PinotMeunier and 7% Chardonnay is a food friendly wine that pairsexceptionally well with sushi. Well structured, with a good mid palate, itshows strawberry, raspberry, cherry and plum flavours. DomaineChandon Rosé is a vibrant, stylish sparkling wine. Though it spent lessthan a year in contact with yeast, its creaminess comes from the highChardonnay content. 10% still Pinot Noir wine was added at tirage to the90% blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier in the base wine.This expressive, rose petal coloured wine, has excellent structure and ripestrawberry, cherry and apple flavours, with spicy notes in the elegantfinish.

We sampled one Reserve, their Domaine Chandon Riche sparkling wine, ablend of 65% Pinot Noir, 15% Muscat, 10% Chardonnay, 8% PinotMeunier and 2% Pinot Blanc. Extra Brut in style, it delivers greatersweetness than a Brut sparkling wine, which is counter intuitive in theirterminology. Because the Muscat grape dominates the nose, this wine isparticularly well suited to rich foods, such as foie gras.

For their high-end Etoille wines, Domaine Chandon has switched from acork to a crown seal cap. This goes on after the yeast is disgorgedbecause the slightest bit of cork taint would interfere with this delicatesparkling wine. Etoille Brut (75% Chardonnay and 25% Pinot Noir) isrich and mouthfilling, with a frothy texture. Displaying vibrant fruitflavours of apple, cherries and plums, with Anjou pear on the finish, ithas ginger and spicy highlights. Etoille Rose is crafted to be a delicatewine. Pale salmon in colour, this blend of 63% Pinot Noir, 31%Chardonnay and 6% Pinot Meunier has a frothy palate of cranberries,strawberry compote, and an underlying spicy component.

Elixir – Muscat d’Alexandrie Joubert Familyfrom South AfricaPeter Mielzynski Agenciestreated guests to an exclusivetasting at this year’sChairman’s Gala, held at theToronto Hunt Club. ElixirMuscat d’Alexandrie JoubertFamily (11.75%) is made inextremely limited quantitiesand this was the first tastingoutside of South Africa.

Between 1865 and 1875, theJoubert family filled a 125 litreFrench oak barrel with Muscat.That same cask has beentopped up annually and twothirds of the barrel is made upof yeasts that have fallen tothe bottom as must. Only sixlitres are bottled each year,using the Solera system.

Dark amber in colour, this Muscat wine has delicious raisin and spiceflavours, underlayed with coffee and espresso notes. It has a luscious,silky palate and well balanced sweetness.

Margot Ritchie is a Toronto-based wine and food journalist andconsultant. She has traveled through many of the wine-growingregions of North America, Europe and New Zealand. Her wine-related activities include providing food catering to privatefunctions and corporations, co-ordinating wine lists forrestaurants and putting together wine cellars for private clients.

e

Domaine Chandon anyone?

Cobus JoubertPresents aSpecial Bottleof Elexir

26 Elite ■ 15-2 ■ 2007

TRAVELWASHINGTON STATE OLYMPIC PENINSULA –RAINFOREST, BEACHES, AND WATERFALLSPerhaps one of America’s best kept travel secrets, this peninsula spansmore than 900,000 acres and includes rugged coastline, amazingwaterfalls, rustic lodges and North America’s only temperate rainforestand glacial mountain peaks. A new spring getaway package, availableMonday through Sunday (excluding holidays and blackout dates) isavailable for interested travelers. For complete details, log ontowww.visitwashingtonparks.com.

ATLANTIC CITY – THE NEW FASHION DESTINATIONThanks, in part, to the Pier Shops at Caesars, Atlantic City is quicklybecoming the Rodeo Drive of the East Coast. Forget the long-agoimpression of smoky gaming floors and buses of seniors crowding thebuffet lines, today the city boasts hot restaurants, and A-list entertainersplaying in the newly christened clubs and arenas. To view the shops, moreinformation can be found at www.thepieratcaesars.com.

SIP & SAVE WITH ACCENT INNS’ WINE PACKAGES IN BRITISH COLUMBIANose your way through award-winning BC wineries through Accent Inns’‘bunches’ of wine packages that are available: year-round in the OkanaganValley; or from April to October on Vancouver Island. For reservations and moreinformation, call 1-800-663-0298 or visit www.accentinns.com.

GOURMET FARE AND ADVENTURE TRAVELIn response to steady growth in demand for specialty wine and gourmetrafting trips, outfitter O.A.R.S. is expanding its 2007 offerings. Adventurersnow have nine different trips from which to choose, and seven uniqueadventures in California, Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia. There areeven quick two-day getaways, or a week-long epicurean trip. The companycaters to active travelers of all ages and abilities, and offers more than 75unique itineraries worldwide. For complete details, visit www.oars.com.

COMPLIMENTARY CELL PHONES AT OCTOGONE TERRE RESORT & SPAThis secluded luxury 5-star getaway is located at the famous palm grove“Parlmeraie’ just 7 km outside of Marrakech on the road to Casablanca. It isone of the first resorts in the world to provide its guests with complimentaryNokia cell phones. With pre-programmed numbers for the resort, the guests willbe able to access any department from any location for a variety a reasons.More information can be obtained by visiting www.octogonehotels.com.

VIRGINIA – A FOOD & WINE DESTINATIONAccording to the first-ever U.S. national culinary tourism report from theTravel Industry Association, Virginia is rated 8th for wine tourism and 15thfor food-related travel. Culinary tourism is a growing trend, with 27million travellers, or 17% of American leisure travellers engaged inculinary or wine-related activities within the past three years. For moreinformation about this tourism report, go to www.tia.org. To plan a trip toVirginia, visit www.Virginia.org.

FERRARI LUXURY TOURS IN ITALYA rare authentic experience, this private Italy self-driving tour with thelatest models of Ferrari can be for four, five, six or eight days or tailormade. Enjoy the Italian way of life while letting your private tour director,with his Alpha Romeo, take care of everything for you; parking your car,cleaning, refueling and technical assistance. More information isavailable by vistiting www.victours.ca.

FRANCE’S TGV TRAIN NOW REACHES THE HEART OF CHAMPAGNE REGIONAptly named Champagne-Ardenne, and situated in Bezannes, the new TGVstation is just five km south of the historic city of Reims, capital of theChampagne region. The travel time from Paris will be a mere 40 minutesfrom the Gare de l’Est station, and it will make this magical place moreaccessible to wine lovers.

VACATION HOMES IN ORLANDODiscover Vacation Homes now offers groups and families an alternative tothe traditional cramped hotel room. Its wide variety of home, sizes and on-site amenities are ideal for multi-generational family getaways, familyreunions, girls and guys trips, golf vacations, small business retreats andmore. Contact kbeltz@gilbertmanjura.com for complete details.

PACIFIC SHORES RESORT & SPA – FOR THE SOUL AND SPIRITWith its carefully designed collection of luxury suites and pamperingfacilities, this award winning resort is built on 15 acres of lush botanicalgardens and wrapped around the calm soothing beauty of VancouverIsland’s Craig Bay. Roll up your sleeves to work with the professionalgardeners who tend the grounds, feed a collection of local saltwaterspecies in the 27,000 litre indoor aquarium, or pamper yourself at theAqua Terre Spa with its 10 treatment rooms. More information can beobtained from heather@seasmokepr.com.

ITALY IN THE FALLLooking for reduced hotel prices in Italy this fall? Find out what isavailable by calling Destination Europe – An Auto Europe Company at 1-888-835-1555 and using promo code 5651. Valid for check-inSeptember 1-October 31/07, rates are based on midweek stay, and do notapply to internet bookings.

2007 PICKS FOR SAN FRANCISCO’S TOP 50 LUXURY AND BOUTIQUE HOTELS Ultimatehotels.com used a rigorous three-step process, culminating inpersonal inspections of each property, to select the top picks. The entirelist can be viewed at www.ultimatehotels.com.

WEST CAICOS RESERVEUninhabited for over 100 years, a new development (West Caicos Reserve)will include the 125-room Ritz-Carlton Reserve – Molasses Reef. As wellit will feature Island Villas, secluded single-family homes, custom homes,cottages and marina town homes, two national parks, cultural heritagesites, a Spa and three restaurants. To learn more about this newdestination, visit www.westcaicorserve.com.

News & ViewsNews & ViewsO F S P E C I A L I N T E R E S TO F S P E C I A L I N T E R E S T

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Elite ■ 15-2 ■ 2007 27

FOODHUMBER COLLEGE TO OFFER MASTER CHEF PROGRAMMEThe Canadian Culinary Federation has announced that Humber CollegeInstitute of Technology & Advanced Learning will design the Canadiancurriculum for the Master Chef designation, the highest and most sought-after designation in the culinary field. Today, there are only 128 chefs inthe US and a small percentage worldwide who hold this credential. Thecollege will be the first in Canada to offer the programme, which currentlyexists only in the U.S., parts of Europe and Australia. The designation willbe open only to chefs who have already obtained their Certified Chef deCuisine certification through the Canadian Culinary Institute. Completeinformation is available from ilena.aldinimessina@humber.ca.

MANITOBA HARVEST HEMP BLISS TM (HEMP MILK)This organic hemp milk provides the powerful nutrition and nutty flavourof hemp seed in a non-dairy beverage, is a delicious alternative to dairy,soy and grain-based drinks, and is beneficial to people with allergies todairy and soy. Visit mic@planetfriendlypr.com for more details.

CIRILLO’S CULINARY ACADEMY - TORONTOFormer executive chef of the Hilton Toronto, and with 25 years of culinaryexperience, John Cirillo has opened this academy located in Toronto’sIslington Village. It boasts 12 cooking stations able to accommodate 24participants, as well as a staging area for Chef Cirillo and guest celebritychefs. Programmes will include classes which cater to individuals,couples, and even kids. For more information, contact Victoria@vlpr.com.

THE FEEL GOOD DIETThe true goal of this book (authored by Cheryle Hart, M.D.) is to teachpeople how to eat right, exercise right and make more serotonin. Simplyput, your hormones, and the neurotransmitters serotonin and dopamine,all work in tandem to help maintain weight control, reduce stress and letyou live in a healthy manner. Including the right foods and supplementsin your weight loss plan can help keep it all in balance. The book isavailable at www.amazon.com.

DID YOU KNOW….Eating strawberries may be as effective as munching on oat bran forlowering LDL or “bad” cholesterol, according to nutritional researchers atthe University of Toronto. In their 18-month study, people who ate threecups of strawberries daily experienced a 13% drop in bad cholesterollevels (excerpted from Fresh Perspectives July 2007 – Ontario Ministry ofAgriculture, Food and Rural Affairs).

WINENEW VINEYARD WEBSITE LAUNCHEDRecently launched, www.justvineyards.com is a comprehensive vineyardand wineries website that contains free database access to the nearly5,000 U.S.-based vineyards and wineries, along with: information on wine,upcoming events, wine search engine, and links to individual vineyardsthroughout the country.

PINOT GRIS DU MONDE – COMPETITION RESULTSFive trophies of excellence were awarded to the following French wineries:2004 Grand Cru, Braun Camille2005 Grand Cru, Cave Vinicole de Turckheim2005 Generique, Moellinger Joseph et Fils2001 Top millesime anterieur, Schmitt Jean-Paul2005 Grand Cru, Wolfberger – Cave Vinicole D’Eguisheim

DANNY DE VITO’S LIMONCELLO HITS THE MARKETAt a recent launch in Florida, renowned actor, producer and director DannyDeVito unveiled his new squeeze – the Danny DeVito’s PremiumLimoncello, an exquisite, imported Italian liqueur made from lusciousSorrento lemons. Information is available by writing todcharles@schwartz.com.

MONTECRISTO INTRODUCES SPICED RUMAlready having won a Gold Medal at the prestigious San Francisco WorldSpirits Competition this year, this new addition to the award-winningportfolio offers the palate smooth, maturely flavoured and aged rum witha hint of spice. Straight up or on the rocks, it is also a perfect partner forany rum-based cocktail.

REIF ESTATE WINERY WINS GOLDThe Ontario Wine Awards conferred three gold medals to Reif EstateWinery for its 2006 Chenin Blanc, 2002 First Growth Cabernet Sauvignonand the 2002 First Growth Merlot. Further information can be obtained bye-mail: andrea.nelson@reifwinery.com.

MOLDOVA WINES GARNER MEDALSAt the recent London International Wine and Spirits Fair 2007, the little-known wines of Moldova were recognized with gold and bronze medals. InMoldova you can find all manners of wine, from the local and youngFeteasca wine to a 35-year-old brandy, from a dry Cabernet-Sauvignon tosparkling wines and sweet dessert wines. Write to vice@voiaj.md for moreinformation.

PILLITTERI WINS GOLD AT SYRAH DU MONDE COMPETITIONWinning gold for its 2004 Shiraz Icewine, Pillitteri Estates received theonly Canadian medal. It is also the first such wine to be commerciallyproduced by a winery. For further information, e-mailgabriela@pillitteri.com. All results of the competition can be viewed atwww.syrah-du-monde.com.

DAN AYKROYD WINERY TO BE BUILTThe $12-million, 45,000 square foot winery will be built off the QEWhighway, at the current Birchwood Estate winery location.Groundbreaking is scheduled for the fall of 2007, and completed in timefor the fall 2008 harvest. The winery’s hospitality building and productionfacility will be designed with environmentally sustainable elements,including geothermal heating and cooling system, as well as solarlighting. Further details can be obtained from seth@wordofmouthpr.com.

ALL CANADIAN WINE CHAMPIONSHIPSMore than 850 wines submitted by 140 wineries from Ontario, BritishColumbia, Quebec and Atlantic Canada were judged by thirty wine writers,sommeliers, and industry professionals from across Canada. Winnersincluded: Inniskillin Okanagan 2005 Riesling Icewine in the “Best DessertWine of the Year” category; Angel’s Gate for its 2006 Sussreserve Rieslingas the “Best White Wine of the Year” to name a few. Complete list ofwinners can be found at www.canadianwinetrail.com.

ABSOLUT VODKA – NOW IN PEAR FLAVOURMade with only natural ingredients, and no added sugar, this new flavouroffers a fresh delicate taste of mellow pears and a long fruity aftertaste.It can be enjoyed neat, with ice, or in mixed drinks and cocktails. It willbe available across Canada in June/July, just in time for the summerseason. More information can be obtained by writing tolcochrane@lexpr.com. e

28 Elite ■ 15-2 ■ 2007

As you prepare for a summer of dining al fresco and outdoorentertaining, you can add to your list of wine buys andfavourites with these suggestions.

A glass of bubblies always sets the tone for a festive event or gathering.Try Taltarni Brut Tache 2005 from Australia’s Victoria region.`Tache’means stain in French. This special sparkler has a pale salmonhue, derived from a splash of red wine that is added at the moment of`dosage’ before the final bottling. A blend of the traditional Champagnevarietals, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, it is made in themethode champenoise. Its frothy mousse, delicate texture, and flavours ofplums and cranberries make it a perfect wine to sip on with appetizers ofsmoked salmon canapés, toast points spread with fresh goat cheese anddill, and cherry tomatoes filled with roasted red pepper aioli topped withcapers.

Another delicious aperitif wine to start the party with is one of Spain’s drysherries. Lustau Solera Reserva Dry Amontillado `Los Arcos’ sherry fits thebill. Amber copper brown, it has a nutty aspect amid dried apricots andsweet apples, with a hint of raisins on the crispfinish. It pairs well with tapas of grilled asparagusspears wrapped with Serano ham, smoked troutand cream cheese canapés, and skewers of grilledscallops served with a lemon coriandermayonnaise.

New Zealand’s lineup of outstanding SauvignonBlancs is well recognized. Koura Bay SauvignonBlanc 2006 is one such example. It comes from theKai Kouraarea district, in the heart of the premiumwine growing area of Awatere Valley of the SouthIsland’s Marlborough region. `Koura’ is thetranslation for crayfish in the local Maori dialect.Owned and operated by the Smith family, thiswinery features terraced vineyards on the southernend of the Valley, where excellent sun exposure andsoil drainage allows for ideal ripening of thegrapes. Aromas of passion fruit, green melon, limesorbet and gooseberry jump forward, followed byhints of grass that carry through on the palate. Afine seam of acidity gives it a zesty finish, makingit a perfect partner to steamed clams and musselsin a white wine broth scented with saffron and

leeks, or a stir fry of freshwater crayfish and prawns with scallions andbaby eggplant served on a bed of wilted rapini.

Alsace wines from France offer special characteristics not often foundelsewhere. Their aromatics and texture is what makes them so appealing.Two choices from Cave de Turckheim amply illustrate this point. TheirGewurztraminer Reserve AOC 2004 has a golden amber colour, with abouquet of lychee nuts, cinnamon, roses, and spiced canned pears. Itcomplements the spicy flavours of Thai cuisine, and partners beautifullywith lobster cooked in a chili pepper infused vegetable stock served witha bowl of steamed jasmine rice, or grouper cooked in parchment withlemongrass, green peppers, fresh ginger and diced celery root.

Alsatian Pinot Gris are food friendly wines that suit many different dishes.Cave de Turckheim’s Pinot Gris AOC 2005 has a straw yellow hue, andexudes aromas of sweet spiced pears with hints of apple, and a rich,unctuous texture with a crisp acidic core. Try it with seafood quenellesflavoured with cayenne, pork paté with spiced apple chutney, and chickensatay with mango and pineapple curried dipping sauce.

From South Africa’s Stellenbosch region, KenForester’s Petit Chenin 2006 is their entry levelChenin Blanc wine. Recognized as an ambassadorof this varietal, which is the most widely plantedwhite grape in the Cape, Ken draws from examplesin France’s Loire Valley for his special style. Lookhere for lovely scents and flavours of grapefruit,melon, golden delicious apples and canned pears.Crisp and refreshing, this crowd pleaser ispackaged in an eye-catching lime and lemonyellow label. Serve it with grilled scallops andginger aioli, scampi, and steamed grouper steaksserved with a dish of braised fennel and leeks. Hispricier upscale Chenin Blanc 2006, presented in ablue label, has forward aromas of honeysuckle,winter melon, peach and pear with citrus andvanilla undertones that replay on the palate. Itssturdier structure suggests a pairing with crabthermidor, curried shrimp with a mango salsa ona bed of jasmine rice, and baked whole redsnapper served with sautéed green and yellowsnap beans.

Wine BuysWine BuysW I N EW I N E

Article and photos by Barbara D. Ritchie

Ken Forester Petit Chenin Photo Credit: Ken Forrester

Elite ■ 15-2 ■ 2007 29

Cakebread Cellars in California’s Napa Valley is a consistent producer ofrich, full flavoured wines. Their Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 is crafted bywinemaker Julianne Laks, using grapes harvested from prime vineyardsthroughout the region. The addition of 12% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Francadds further complexity to this powerful wine. Inky red in colour, it isbrimming with blackcurrant, dark cherries, cinnamon and cedar withnotes of roasted coffee beans in the lengthy finish. Serve it with maplesmoked salmon, and swordfish steaks grilled on the barbecue topped withspicy red pepper sauce. It also enhances whole roasted herbed chicken ina red wine tarragon sauce paired with wilted rapini in a balsamicreduction and a dish of parsnip onion au gratin.

From the southern cool climate wine region of Patagonia, located at thetip of Argentina, comes `Del Fin del Mundo’ Reserva Pinot Noir 2005(literally translated as `from the end of the world’). Deep purple in colour,

it has ripe cherry, plum and sweet vanilla notes, with great depth andfinesse and a fine seam of acidity on the finish. It is an ideal choice forbarbecued lamb chops with rosemary and sage served with garlic mashedrutabaga and sweet potatoes.

Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier’s Shiraz (95%) /Viognier (5%) 2005 fromAustralia’s Victoria region is a joint venture between Michel Chapoutier ofFrance’s Rhone region, who owns the US company Paterno Imports, andthe Terlato family of California. This classic blend exhibits typicalflavours of sweet cherries, smoked bacon, leather, and freshly crackedblack pepper that linger on the palate. Chewy and elegant at the sametime, it is compelling with venison steaks in a juniper berry sauce servedwith grilled asparagus and barbecued onions, or steaks on the barbecuetopped with a spicy sauce and a side of wild mushrooms in red winesauce. e

N E W P R O D U C T SN E W P R O D U C T S . . . .

I’m always interested in trying out new gadgets. Here are a few, which I would like to share with you.

THE WINE WHISK – AERATING WINE IN A GLASSThis latest innovation lets wine breatheright in your glass. It’s the perfect multi-purpose bar and kitchen gadget becauseit combines a whisk with a very attractivebottle stopper. Why not use just a regularkitchen whisk? Because the Wine Whisk’selongated French-style head fits perfectlyin all standard-sized stemmed orstemless glasses, and is balanced withthe bottle-stopper handle which makeswhisking in the glass almost effortless.Increasing the space at the tip allows formore surface area of the wires to agitatethe liquid, thus introducing more air forthe aeration process. This product isboth attractive and functional. To orderyours, go to www.winewhisk.com

FOOD LOOPThe food loop is quite simply the strongestand most versatile alternative forbutcher twine that you can find.It comes in bright colours sothat it easily distinguishesitself, and has a high heatresistance. The strands canbe added to each other toaccommodate larger cutssuch as roasts. Simply snap onand pull to the desired firmness.

No need to fuss with knives or scissors to removethe loop - just unhook it. Dishwasher safe, theloop can be washed and reused and is great for avoiding cross-contamination. This great product, which comes in a handy net bag,contains six strands and has a myriad of uses. To order yours, go towww.thefoodloop.com .

GARLIC ROASTERThis unit is attractive enough that it can be left onthe counter without taking up too much space. Norocket science required to use this product. Justadd a little oil on the bottom of the removablepan, cut the tops of the garlic and placethe cut side down. Close the lid and theindicator light will let you know whenthe garlic is ready. For variations, youcan place a few rosemary needles foradded flavour.

A must for any garlic lover, the unit can also be used to roast single(small) portions of any vegetables such as eggplant, zucchini, or peppers.Just use your imagination.The Garlic roaster will make a welcome additionto your kitchenware collection. This product is available at Amazon.com.

VINTURI (AN INNOVATIVE WINE AERATOR)Don’t have time to decant a bottle of yourfavourite wine? Don’t fret. With Vinturi , thesleek and elegant wine accessory, theaeration process is accelerated in the sametime it takes to pour a glass. Simply holdVinturi over a glass and pour wine throughits beautiful form, and it will mix the properamount of air for the right amount of time,allowing wine to breathe instantly andrelease the wine’s flavours and aromas.Any wine that benefits from aeration will beimproved by Vinturi. This accessory, and itspatent-pending design, is alreadyendorsed and available at more than twodozen Napa Valley wineries with asuggested retail price of $39.95. It is alsoavailable from www.vinturi.com.

Chef Antonio

By Chef Antonio

San Diego, California is purported to have the most sunny days in thecontinental U.S.A. and, in my book, that alone makes the area near-perfect for a sun worshiper like me.

But paradise consists of more than sun and warmth. What about luxuryaccommodation, impeccable service, tempting culinary delights andsumptuous wines? The discerning traveler can find all of these amenitiesand more at Paradise Point Resort & Spa on San Diego’s Mission Bay.

The resort’s tropical ambience, which incorporates French Indonesian colorsand textures, is elegant without being intimidating. The main lobby isbursting with colours, comfortable furniture and intriguing decor. The resort’sprofessional and courteous staff welcome guests who are more than ready toleave their troubles at the doorstep and indulge in some pure R & R.

The beautifully appointed rooms enfold the weary traveler, as they snuggleinto the deliciously comfortable and soft linens. One can get a new leaseon life by taking advantage of the Indonesian-themed spa “SpaTerre”which offers Javanese-style massages and treatments for the body andface. For those inclined to more active indulgences, there are personaltrainers in the fitness centre.

Lazing around on the pool deck presents one dilemma, however. Do youchoose the picturesque Waterfall Pool, the Adult Lagoon Pool, or the MainPool? If you’re traveling with children, have no worries as there is a specialchildren’s pool as well. But wait, in addition guests can meander down amile-long sandy white beach, and four lawn venues which offer more than30,000 square feet of outdoor space for leisurely walks.

Golfers can get their fix at the putting course,swingers can make a racket at the tennis court,basketball lovers can shoot hoops at thebasketball court, while bikers can rent bicycles fora ‘wheel’ of a good time. The Croquet Court offersa more sedate approach to keeping active. TheResort is also an ideal location for corporatemeetings, seminars and social functions includingweddings.

No matter what activity you choose to undertake(or not), you are bound to get hungry and thirsty.Lunch can be an informal affair at the BarefootBar & Grill, with hearty but delicious fare on themenu. Even the birds like the food, as oneswooped down and made his escape with one ofmy grissini breads.

ParadisePointis in

California

T R AT R A V EV E LL

ParadisePointis in

California

One view from the grounds

The main lobby

Patio of the Barefoot Bar & Grill

ParadisePointis in

CaliforniaArticle and photos by Anna Cavaliere

Elite ■ 15-2 ■ 2007 31

S ome drink it on ice. Some drink it neat. And others simply enjoy itin their favourite foods. Grant’s Scotch Whisky has developed aseries of mouth-watering recipes (2 recipes follow on the next page)

that will impress your friends and family. Many people don’t think ofusing Scotch in mixed cocktails but it’s terrific in almost any of the newor traditional drinks that call for whisky.

William Grant & Sons recently entered the history books as the firstwhisky distiller ever to receive the highly prestigious International SpiritsChallenge (ISC) Distiller of the Year accolade for the second successiveyear. The company is one of the only remaining family owned,independent distillers of Scotch whiskies in the world.

Liven up the BBQ with

Grant’s ScotchWhisky

Liven up the BBQ with

Grant’s ScotchWhisky

Recipes provided by Grant’s Scotch Whisky • Photos by Greig Reekie

SAILOR’S DELIGHT Serves 1

Ingredients:1.5 oz Grant’s Family Reserve Scotch Whisky1.5 oz orange juice1.5 oz grapefruit juice1/2 oz grenadineorange/lime/mint for garnish

Method:Fill mixing glass with ice.Add Grant’s whisky, grapefruit juice,orange juice and grenadine.Strain into glass filled with ice.Garnish with a slice of orange/lime or mint.

F O O DF O O D

Fine dining can be enjoyed in the Baleen Restaurant, where ExecutiveChef Amy DiBiase performs her magic in creating impressive dishes todelight all your senses. Our palates very much appreciated theMission Bay Martinis, focaccia of parmesan and rosemary served witholive oil and balsamic vinegar. The creamy lobster bisque piqued ourfancy, as did the filling seared scallops. The main entrée of searedtuna and New York Steak were both cooked to perfection. Predictably,the wine list slanted to California brands, but was augmented withsome wines from Australia and New Zealand, as well as France andItaly. We chose a Voignier Tokai 1999, and a BV Tapestry to accompanyour meal. Wines are available by the glass, and will match every tasteand pocketbook. The ‘per glass’ cost can range from $6 for a MondaviWoodbridge White Zin to $15/glass for a red Chalk Hill Sonoma; or ashigh as $18 for the Ports and Sherries. My husband, a lover of PannaCotta, declared Baleen’s version exceptional, even better than any he’stasted in Italy.

Patrons tend to be mainly guests staying at the resort. As an addedbonus, with your dining facilities within walking distance ofbungalows, there is no need for a designated driver. But, even if youare not staying at the resort, making reservations at Baleen is wellworth the extra effort. Romantics won’t be disappointed as the eveningsun sets over Mission Bay!

If you’re planning a trip to southern California, do keep Paradise PointResort & Spa in mind. They can be reached at 1-800-344-2626 or byvisiting www.paradisepoint.com

Salut!

Sunset

Seared Tuna

e

32 Elite ■ 15-2 ■ 2007

SPICE-RUBBED SPARERIBS WITHGRANT’S SCOTCH WHISKY BBQ SAUCE Serves 4:

Spice Rub: 4 tsp chili powder 20 ml1 tbsp dried oregano leaves 15 ml1 tsp dried thyme leaves 5 ml1 tsp ground cumin 5 ml1 tsp salt 5 ml1/2 tsp ground cayenne pepper 2 ml3 to 4 lbs pork spareribs 1 to 2 kg2 tbsp olive oil 25 ml

Grant’s Whisky Barbecue Sauce:1 cup ketchup 250 ml1/3 cup Grant’s Scotch Whisky 75 ml3 cloves garlic, minced 31/4 cup packed brown sugar 50 ml2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce 25 ml2 tbsp balsamic vinegar 25 ml1 tbsp Dijon mustard 15 ml 2 tsp chipotle hot pepper sauce or 10 ml

other hot pepper sauce to taste

Preheat greased barbecue grill. Spice Rub: In a bowl, combine chili powder, oregano,thyme, cumin, salt and cayenne pepper. Cut ribs intoserving sized portions and place on a baking sheet;brush with oil on both sides and sprinkle evenly withspice rub. Refrigerate, if preparing ahead. In a small saucepan, whisk together ketchup,Grant’s Scotch whisky, garlic, brown sugar,Worccestershire sauce, balsamic vinegar, mustard

and chipotle hot pepper sauce. Bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionallyfor 10 minutes, or until slightly thickened. Place ribs on preheated greased grill over medium-low heat; grill for 20 to 25 minutes, turning ribs often until cooked through. Brush ribsgenerously on both sides with Grant’s Scotch Whisky Barbecue Sauce. Grill for about 20 minutes,turning often nd brushing generously with the sauce until nicely glazed and tender.

Cooking Tips: Don't limit this tasty sauce to just ribs. It's also terrific with other grill favouritessuch as burgers, steak and chops, or try it on chicken breasts and legs. To add a smoky note,add 1 tsp (5ml) liquid smoke, or to taste. Make an extra batch of this sauce and store in acontainer in the refrigerator for up to one month. The recipe makes 1-1/2 cups (375 ml) Grant'sScotch Whisky Barbecue Sauce

Barbecues can be quit unpredicatble when controllin heat. Slowly roast the ribs first beforebrushing with the sauce. when basting with the sauce, keep a close eye to prevent the ribs fromcharring.

GRILLED SALMON WITH GRANT’S SCOTCH WHISKY DILL-MUSTARD MARINADE Serves: 4

Ingredients:4 pieces of centre cut salmon fillets(6oz / 175 g each)

Grant's Scorch Whisky Dill-Mustard marinade:1/4 cup Grant's Scotch Whisky 50 ml2 tbsp olive oil 25 ml2 tbsp honey Dijon mustard 25 ml2 tbsp chopped fresh dill 25 ml1 clove garlic, minces 11 tsp grated lemon zest 5 ml1/2 tsp salt 2 ml1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper 2 ml

Preheat greased barbecue grill. In a bowl, combine grant's Scotch whiskly, olive oil, mustard, dill, garlic, lemon zest, salt and pepper. Place salmon in ashallow baking dish to hold salmon in an even layer. Pour Grant's Scotch Whisky marinade over salmon; let marinate at room temperature, turningoccasionally for 15 minutes or refrigerate for up to 1 hour. Place salmon on preheated grill over medium-high heat; grill for about 4 to 5 minutes per side,turning once and brushing occasionally with marinade until fish flakes easily.

Cooking Tips: instead of using a barbecue, marinate salmon as directed in recipe. Cook on a stovetop grill pan or place on a broiler pan 4 inches (10cm)below preheated broiler for the same cooking time. To prevent salmon fillets from falling apart when grilling, soak wooden skewers in water for 10 minutes.remove skin from salmon and thread salmon lengthwise onto skewers.

Elite ■ 15-2 ■ 2007 33

he three consortiums representing Chianti Classico, Vino Nobiledi Pontepulciano and Brunello di Montalcino collaborated this

past winter to present the Anteprima (preview) of their 2006, andshowcase other vintages to the media and trade. What did we

learn? What were our impressions? Read on for the answers.

CHIANTI CLASSICOContrary to what some may believe, Chianti is not a grape variety but a province inTuscany. The wine that is derived from this region, whether the regular or Classicovarieties, is made primarily from the Sangiovese grape (the root of the word means‘blood of Jupiter)”.

The Chianti Classico Wine Consortium, hosted the “14th Annual Preview of Chianti ClassicoWine”, which took place in and around Florence’s Leopolda Station. Collectively, the consortium’s 600members are responsible for approximately 17,900 acres of vineyards spread across its eight regions thatlie between Siena and Florence.

The two-day event of intense tastings, seminars and dinners was launched by the consortium’s president,Marco Pallanti, who pointed out the increase in the issuance of official seals in the past three years.

The Consortium’s mandate is to control and protect the Denomination as an authentic ‘wine of the territory’and maintain high quality standards, thus ensuring continued market satisfaction and loyalty. In so doing,it also emphasizes the uniqueness of Chianti Classico, and its terroir which imparts the fruity and complexcharacteristics to the wines, thus setting it apart from other Chianti products. The consortium hopes thatwith such emphasis on quality perhaps any doubts about Chianti’s quality can finally be put to rest, andconsumers will judge the wines today on their merit without referring back to past prejudices.

Three Tuscan ‘Wine’Jewels Shine Brightly

A Preview of the 2006 Vintage of Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and Brunello di Montalcino

Three Tuscan ‘Wine’Jewels Shine Brightly

W I N EW I N E

Article by Anna Cavaliere and W.C. Enoteca

The Tasting Room for Chianti Classico

Montepulciano Shrouded in Fog

T

San Casciano Vineyards - Chianti Classico Region

The strategy appears to be working. The brand has never been morepopular, with the largest export market being the U.S., followed byGermany, the U.K., Switzerland, Canada and Japan. This trend likelycoincided with the merger of the Chianti Classico Wine Consortium andthe Consorzio del Marchio Storico, which capitalized on the highly-recognized symbol – the Black Rooster. No longer just a trade brand theicon, which dates back to the 14th century, is now the denomination of theentire Chianti territory which it demarcates.

We’ll forego the technical description of the 2006 forecast. Suffice to saythat 2006 calls for a great Chianti Classico vintage for both the regularand Riserva brands, with wines displaying exceptional alcohol level,excellent acidic structure and colour intensity. Typically ruby-red in colour,tending to garnet with maturation, the wine’s sound structure displays abouquet of spices and wild berries.

The tasting of over 310 wines submitted by 130 producers was an exercisein stamina and organization. We tasted several samples from each of theChianti zones, including some reserves and barrel varieties. A few of themore notable versions ideal for cellaring were:

2005 Chianti Classico Il Mandorlo, San Casciano in Val Di Pesa. This still-young wine offers a good floral nose and structure, along with strongtannins. Although still young, it displays strong tannins for good agingpotential.

2003 Chianti Classico Riserva, Fattoria di Cinciano, Poggibonsi is aluscious wine with an inviting floral nose with a hint of spice. It can cellarfor many more years.

2004 Chianti Classico 2004, Fattoria Tregole, Castellina in Chianti, withits softer tannins and rich ruby colour, translates into beautifully mellowfinish on the palate.

2005 Barone Ricasoli, Cantine del Castello di Brolio, Gaiole in Chianti isa divine wine which exudes a flowery bouquet.

A visit to Tenuta Niccolai introduced us to a variety of different wines inaddition to Chianti Classico. With a long and important history, theTenuta Niccolai hosted a Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Champagne andOysters evening at its Palagetto winery, which is committed to continueand renew the Super Tuscans. The evening’s sample of I’Niccolo’ 2005 -a blend of separately fermented Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc andVermentino – showed great balance with a hint of wood. Be on the lookoutfor this winery’s 2004 Syrah when it is bottled, as it will make a greataddition to your wine cellar.

VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO– High Five for this wine!The Montepulciano area, which lies between theneighbouring Chianti Classico and Brunello diMontalcino, encompasses 16,500 hectares.Approximately 2,000 hectares of this area are coveredwith vineyards with 1,207 hectares registered as VinoNobile Di Montepulciano, (although not all are as yet productive). Thewine’s unique characteristics can be attributed in part to the territory’ssandy soil and higher average temperatures. Another factor is the VinoNobile di Montepulciano producers who, to their credit, stick to theirprinciple of choosing quality over quantity. The end result is very muchappreciated by the world’s fans of this noble wine, evidenced by a 10%increase in sales in the U.S. in 2006.

Following on the heels of 4* ratings awarded to the 2004 and 2005vintages, the 2006 promises to hold even more prominence in the annalsof Italian wines as it was awarded a perfect 5* rating by an external panelof judges.

Carpineto Vineyards - Montepulciano Region

The Fortezza in Montepulciano was the setting for the 2007 edition of acomparative preview of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano wines. At the mediatasting, some wines that stood out from the rest (and all from the VinoNobile di Montepulciano DOCG (Cru) category) were: Boscarelli’s 1999Nocio Dei Boscarelli; Salcheto’s 2001 Salco Evoluzione; La Ciarliana 2003Vigna Scianello; Le Casalte 2003 Quercetonda and Poliziano 2000 Asinone.A subsequent visit to the booths of the 35 participating wineries yieldedsome other great finds, which included the latest vintages as well as thoseexpected to be released in 2007. Icario 2004 Vitaroccia an elegant andversatile wine is produced only in good vintage years. Made from 100%Sangiovese grapes, and displaying ruby-red hues and spicy notes on thenose, this full-body wine marries beautifully with roasts and aged cheeses.The very smooth and fruity Podere Le Berne Riserva 2001, aged in wood for36 months, tantalizes you with aromas of cinnamon and cherry andrewards your tastebuds with a superb, rather lengthy finish and mouthfeel.We lingered some time at the Villa Anna booth where we sampled thesmooth, spicy and well-balanced 2005 Rosso di Montepulciano and theincomparable Vin Santo which begins sweet on the palate and finishes dry.Only 500 bottles of 375 ml of this fabulous wine are produced, so be sureto snap up a couple of bottles if you come across it.

A tour to the Carpineto Winery afforded us the chance to taste a flight oftheir 1990-2003 wines. The 1988 Vino Nobile Riserva was the first vintagein temperature-controlled cellars, and is a perfect example of a wine thatstill maintains its youth despite its age. Another outstanding wine in thiscompany’s portfolio is the 1986 Vin Santo (60% Trebbiano, 40%Malvasia), a sinfully delicious accompaniment to cheese. Founded in1967, Carpineto takes great care to match the rootstock to its differentvarieties of soil to ultimately produce 2 million, 1/2 litre bottles of whichtwo-thirds are Riserva.

A perfect evening took place at the Il Faggeto Winery where our hostess,Bruna Baroncini, introduced guests to the ‘first’ Vino Nobile diMonepulciano Pietranera Riserva 200. She then lit the barbecue to grillChianina beef steaks, produced by Marchese Ridolfo Bichi RuspoliForteguerri. This cow species existed since the Etruscan times, and evenbefore Vino Nobile wines. As a prelude to the Chianina steaks, the mainentrée for the evening’s dinner, guests helped themselves to homemadecold cuts, small pizzas, tuna and crackers, olives Ascolani, mozzarellaballs, bruschetta as well as Risotto al Nobile. The wines served throughout

the evening included Fontanile Bianco; Vino Nobile di MontepulcianoPietra del Diavolo’ Rosso di Montepulciano Il Lupaio; and Fortilizio ChiantiColli Senesi, to name a few. For more details on this prominent winery besure to visit www.carpineto.it.

BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINOSitting atop the hilltown of Montalcino, just south ofSiena, is the town of Montalcino’s Fortezza, which waschosen by the Consorzio del Vino Brunello diMontalcino as the venue for its massive tasting of the2001 Riserva wines as well as the 2002 and 2005vintages. Some notables from the tasting included: DonatellaCinelli Colombini, 2005 Brunello di Montalcino 2001 Riserva, is a well-balanced wine that displays a powerful nose of vanilla, chocolate andcherries. The persistent aroma of Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello diMontalcino 2001 Riserva, coupled with its elegant and lingering finish,marries well with red meats and aged cheeses. One that appealed to bothof us was Lagerla’s 2002 Brunello di Montalcino. With its woodsy and violetscents, it proffers a stunning and silky mouthfeel and pairs magnificentlywith red meat, particularly wild game.

Brunello di Montalcino has come a long way in a relatively short period oftime. Only fifty years ago it lay had claim to only a dozen estates,comprising a total of approximately 60 acres, all of which belonged tonoble families. Today, there are approximately 250 producers. It might besaid that the increase could be attributed to the Italian-American familyMariani-May who, in the eighties, founded the largest winemaking estate- Castello Banfi. They were followed by the best names in the Italianwinemaking sector - Antinori, Frescobaldi, Gaja - and entrepreneurs whosaw the potential and invested heavily in the region. Their faith andgamble paid off, and today Brunello di Montalcino is one of the mostsought-after wines, with price tags to prove it.

The special variety of the Sangiovese grape, used to produce Brunello diMontalcino wines, flourishes in soil which contains limestone. It is a late-ripening fruit that offers prominent fruity aromas that range from cherry,to strawberry, plum or blueberry. Rich, dark-red in colour, these complexwines can finish either elegantly or slightly bitter. Known for itspronounced tannins and acidity, they also age well.

A visit to the Carpineto Cellars

The Fortezza of Montepulciano

Bruna Baroncini, Proprietor, Tenuta Il Faggeto - Montepulciano Region

The 2004 and 2005 were already wonderful years for Brunello di Montalcino but, with the declaration thatthe 2006 was a 5* year, this wine could very well be looking at a grand slam vintage-wise. This ratingjustified the prediction that 2006 would produce extraordinary wines, given the near perfect ripeningseason, fewer hot days than in prior years, lack of rain after September, and cool evenings (which allowedthe harvest to be dry.)

We were made to feel very welcome by our host, Marquis Fernando Frescobaldi, during a visit CastelGiocondo (Frescobaldi), which is situated at 6000 feet in the heart of the region. Following a helicopterride over the vineyards, we enjoyed some delightful wines from their cellars. The 2002 Frescobaldi BrutMetodo Classico was superb as was the Benefizio Pomino Bianco. The latter, made from chardonnay grapes,exhibits a rich complexity with slight nuances of vanilla which complement the tropical fruit characteristics, and is awonderful accompaniment to soups and white meat. The 1991 Lamaione, crafted by enologist Nicoló D’Afflitto, with itsdistinctive ‘truffle’ nose would appeal to truffle aficionados. Much to our surprise and delight the wine has retained itsbeautiful colour despite its age. It is a real treasure, if you can find it.

Le Chiuse winery, run by the latest generation of the Biondi Santi family – Simonetta Vilani, her husband Nicolo Magnelliand son Lorenzo – produces circa 30,000 bottles each year from its 18 hectares property, a third of which are Brunellovineyards. To ensure quality, they produce low yields through grape thinning which is still done by hand. The wineundergoes a lengthy maceration during fermentation, and is aged for three years in large oak barrels. The end result is ahigh quality wine that retains its freshness for many years.

The Riserva 2001 delights the eyes with its brilliant ruby red colour, the nose with its fruitiness, and rewards thetastebuds with a clean palate and a long finish of jam and spices. Most of the Riserva vintages were similar, with theexception of the 2000 which, because of the extremely hot season, lacked the necessary acidity to retain itsyouthfulness. Ontario consumers can find this winery’s ’99 Riserva in LCBO outlets.

Regardless which of these jewels appeal to you, we are certain that you will be pleased with your selection. Salute!

For more information, be sure to visit: www.chianticlassico.com • www.vinonobiledimontepulciano.it • www.consorziobrunellodimontalcino.it

Le Chiuse Vineyard - Montalcino Region

Town of Montalcino

36 Elite ■ 15-2 ■ 2007

Castelgiocondo (Frescobaldi) -Montalcino Region

e

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