vol 1,issue 3 textile value chain

October - December 2012 Volume Issue Pages 1 3 60

ISSN No.: 2278-8972 RNI No.: MAHENG / 2012 / 43707|

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www.textilevaluechain.com

TE TILEXVALUE CHAIN

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State of IndianTextile Machinery Industry

Print Forecast -Spring / Summer 2013

New AgeFibres & Yarns

Interview:Kusumgar Corporates

About Us

Bombay Rayon Fashions Limited

APPAREL Comfortable, durable and

stylish are the

inherent qualities of the range

of apparels

available. Admiration is guaranteed

with BRFL apparels.

TRIMSWith an initial goal to maintain

qualityand consistency in button

manufacturing, BRFL has set up an in

-house state of the art button manufacturing unit, the Trims Division

is today the largest and most sophisticated Button Industry in India.

RETAILGuru, a renowned apparel brand in Italy

has been a subsidiary of BRFL since 2008. Guru has stores in 18 countries

around the World, including Italy, Spain, France, Germany, Holland, Belgium,

Luxemburg, Greece, England, Portugal, the Middle East, Turkey, Russia,

Ukraine, Austria, Switzerland, the Canary Islands, Scandinavia,

China and India.

YARNIn 2010 Bombay Rayon Fashions Ltd.

completed its vertical integration in the

textile industry with the acquisition of a

yarn manufacturing company of great

repute, STI India Ltd, thus making BRFL

one of the privileged few to have the

capability of producing everything from

yarn to garment.

FABRICEvery thread woven at Bombay Rayon

Fashions Limitedis a part of an incredible range of fabrics that BRFL has to offer.Each fabric has one inherent quality - Comfort. Our promise to manufacture

the finest fabrics inspires us to put in that extra effort to create magic.

We showcase an enormous range of fabrics and size offerings available in various colours

to suit every occasion and every budget.

Clothing is one of the strongest human desires. A desire to be different. A desire to look beautiful. A desire to be comfortable. A desire to make a statement. A desire that is fulfilled by that perfect piece of fabric called 'BRFL'. Woven with passion, our fabrics speak a story of novelty. BRFL has grown phenomenally and the reason has been our customers. Inspired towards betterment, we now possess the entire knowhow and technology for yarn dyeing, fabric weaving, processing and garment manufacturing. BRFL is one of India's most dynamic and professionally managed textile groups.No wonder, we are well renowned in the fashion export industry worldwide.

BRFL is a vertically integrated textile company, engaged in the manufacture of a wide range of fabrics and garments from state of the art production facilities. Apart from being the largest Shirt manufacturer in India, we have successfully evolved into a multi-fiber manufacturing company producing fabrics such as Cotton, Polyester, Tencel, Modal, Lycra, Wool and various blends. Our yarn dyed fabric, printing techniques, finishing, processing, weaving, stitching are a mark of excellence making every piece of fabric perfect. With fabric manufacturing facilities of 100 million meters per annum, garment manufacturing facilities of 60 million pieces per annum, being expanded to 90 million pieces per annum and a strong employee base of around 38,000; BRFL is today one of the most sought after brands in the Indian as well as International fashion markets.

Products

(The Company was originally incorporated as Mudra Fabrics Private Limited on May 21, 1992. Name of the

Company was changed to Mudra Fabrics Limited w.e.f. October 13, 1992. Name of the Company

was further changed to Bombay Rayon Fashions Limited w.e.f. September 30, 2004)

Registered Office:

D-1st Floor, Oberoi Garden Estates, Chandivali Farms Road, Chandivali,

Andheri (East), Mumbai - 400 072 Tel: +91-22-39858800 Fax: +91-22-28476992

Email: [email protected] Web: www.bombayrayon.com

AD

VT.

EditorialSo far things have been good - we have grown as a team, our

readers have been generally happy and we are learning plenty. We are working hard to make our magazine bigger and better with bigger reach. That's the reason we felt that we need to be more inimitable and identifiable. We changed our look for a fresher and more contemporary look. Our logo is a wonderful and ingenious monogram which incorporates the initials of our magazine name TVC.

From this issue, we are introducing for our readers';

The Cover Story this quarter covers the New Age Fibres and Yarns. In recent years there have been tremendous innovations and applications in the fibres and yarns field. With increasing consumer needs, improvisation at fabric level is pass. Changes are now being done at the fibre level itself to give a better final product. As new production techniques become available, the opportunities for engineering fibres and yarns stretch from large-scale to the nano, invisible to the naked eye. Increasingly they are playing a vital role in health, protection and final consumer products. This story covers research and application of fibres and yarns from all over the globe.

With the extension of TUFS (Technology Upgradation Fund Scheme) and introduction of FDI in Retail, from trade and labour deficiency in China, the next few years are going to have a telling effect on the Indian Textile Industry. This is a golden chance for us to rein in our horses and go for the kill. We can improve our machinery, make our base stronger, conduct researches for growth and improvisation, educate and train our youth in textiles and engineering and train them for eventual replacement for the retirees and improvise our current state of affairs. We need to think

to become thorough professionals and be true global leaders in manufacturing and supply of raw materials.

3 new sectionstextile news, both local and global, trend forecast for the upcoming seasons and a column for future trends.

BIGGER AND LARGER for SUSTAINABILITY,

All rights reserved Worldwide; Reproduction of any of the content from this issue is prohibited without explicit written permission of the publisher. Every effort has been made to ensure and present factual and accurate information. The views expressed in the articles published in this magazine are that of the respective authors and not necessarily that of the publisher. Textile Value chain is not responsible for any unlikely errors that might occur or any steps taken based in the information provided herewith.

Registered Office :Innovative Media and Information Co.189/5263, Sanmati, Pantnagar,Ghatkopar (East), Mumbai - 400075.Maharashtra, INDIA.Tel/Fax: +91-22-21026386Cell: +91-9769442239Email: [email protected] Web: www.textilevaluechain.com

Owner, Publisher, Printer & Editor Ms. Jigna ShahPrinted & processed by her at,Impression Graphics,Gala no.13, Shivai Industrial Estate, behind McDonald,Andheri Kurla Road, Sakinaka,Andheri (E), Mumbai - 400 072, Maharashtra, India.

Hope you find this issue engrossing. Enjoy your read!!!

Ms. Rajul J. ShahEditor in Chief

Cover story : New Age Fibres and Yarns

In this Issue...

Technical Textile : Kusumgar Corporates An interview with Mr. Yogesh Kusumgar

Forecast : 2013 Print Spring / Summer Forecast

Career : How to Bridge Gap between Textile Education Institutions and Textile Industry

Recycling : Waste Management of Textile

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58

Recent developments and applications in fibre and yarn fields

State of Indian Textile Machinery Industry 33Strengths, Weaknesses and Measures for Modernization

12 Print Trends for the upcoming Spring/Summer season

Supply Chain for Second-hand clothes in Mumbai

Editor & PublisherMs. Jigna Shah

Editor in ChiefMs. Rajul J. Shah

Advertising & MarketingMd. Tanweer

Creative HeadMs. Rajul Shah

Graphic DesignerMr. Vaibhav GosarMs. Disha Haria

Editorial Advisory Board

INDUSTRY

Mr. Devchand Chheda - City Editor - Vyapar ( Janmabhumi Group)

Mr. Manohar Samuel - Joint President, Birla Cellulose

Mr. Abhishek Biyani - Damodar Group

Dr. M. K. Talukdar - VP, Kusumgar Corporates

Mr. Ajay Sharma - GM- RSWM ( LNJ bhilwara group)

Textile Value Chain

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Current News

Yarn : Value Added Fancy Yarn

Ratan Glitters

Fabric : Processing

Study of Bhilwara Synthetic Fabrics

Garment: Colour in Branding

Environmental Label

Book review : Textiles and the Environment

Technical Textile : Evironmental Protection by Geo Bags

Handloom Sector : Indian Handloom Industry

Textile Machinery : Dynamic Autolooms Pvt. Ltd.

Exporter corner : Apparel Global Value Chain

Future Trends : Artificial Neural Network Part 2

Skill Gap Analysis : In Fabric manufacturing sector

Career : Production Management

College Focus : List of Colleges for Textile Engineering

DKTE college

Government Policy

Associations in Mumbai

Trade Shows

Classifieds

Industrial Updates

CONSULTANT / ASSOCIATION Mr. Avinash Mayekar - MD, Suvin Advisor Pvt. Ltd.

Mr. Shivram Krishnan - Senior Textile Advisor

Mr. G. Bennergy - Management & Industrial Consultant

Mr. Uttam Jain, Director - PDEXCIL

Mr. Jaykrishna Pathak - President,Bombay Yarn Merchants Association & Exchange Ltd.

EDUCATION / RESEARCH

Mr. B.V. Doctor - HOD knitting , SASMIRA

Dr. Ela Dedhia - Associate Professor, Nirmal Niketan College

Dr. Mangesh D. Teli - Professor, Ex.HOD & Dean ICT (former UDCT)

Dr. S.K. Chattopadhyay - Principal Scientist & Head MPD, CIRCOT

Dr. Rajan Nachane - Principal Scientist & Head QEID, CIRCOT

Editorial Pg: Top left - Advanced Textiles for health and Well-Being Mari OMahony, Bottom left - www.englishwithjo.com, Right - www.patternbank.comContent Pg: Left Pg - www.patternbank.com, Right Pg - Advanced Textiles for health and Well-Being Mari OMahony

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Editorial Advisory Board

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4 Textile Value Chain | October-December 2012

Indian policy on 51% FDI in multi-brand retail simplifiedCourtesy: www.fibre2fashion.com

The government of India recently permitted 51% foreign direct investment (FDI) in multi-brand retail. However, when spoke to a few leaders in the apparel and garment retail sector earlier, they admitted that the policy was not clear to them. Attempts to make the policy on 51% FDI in multi-brand retail simplified for our global readers from around 190 countries. Excerpts have been taken from a paper released by PricewaterhouseCoopers (PWC) India.

The contours of the new policy are set out below:Multi brand retail trading:

Minimum US $100 million investment by foreign investor.

At least 50% of total FDI to be invested in 'back-end infrastructure' within three years of first tranche.

At least 30% of the value of procurement of manufactured and processed products to be sourced from Indian 'small industries' (those that have a total investment in plant and machinery not exceeding USD 1 million).

For convenience of initial roll-outs, the sourcing compliance requirement for first 5-years has been averaged. After this period, it will be annual compliance.

Stores will be set up only in cities with a population of more than one million as per the last census.

Stores can be set up only in those states that are notified by the government as having agreed or agreeing in future to allow FDI in multi-brand retail trading.

States that have been currently notified include Andhra Pradesh, Assam, Delhi, Ha ryana , Jammu and Kashm i r , Maharashtra, Mani pur, Rajasthan, Uttarakhand, Daman and Diu and Dadra and Nagar Haveli (union territories).

Given this, Mumbai, Pune, Delhi, Nagpur, Hyderabad and Jaipur are some of the cities where retail stores will currently be permissible.

Companies with FDI cannot undertake multi-brand retail trading through e-commerce.

A high-level group, under the Minister of Consumer Affairs, may be constituted to examine the issues concerning internal trade. This group is expected to make recommendations for reforms accordingly.

National News

India - Cotton Ginners Call For Tax Reduction In PunjabCourtesy:/www.indiantextilejournal.com

Cotton ginning factories in Punjab are languishing due to higher and multi ple taxation. Talking to media in Chandigarh on Monday, members of the Punjab Cotton Factories and Ginners Association said that the rate of taxes in neighbouring states of Rajasthan and Haryana was lower than Punjab's, which encouraged farmers to sell their produce in these states. As a result, Punjab's ginning factories were running below capacity.

According to Bahgwan Bansal, the association's president, said that factories were lying idle in Punjab. He also said that the number of ginning mills had also decreased in Punjab from 411 to 327 in the past few years as ginners had relocated themselves ton Sirsa, Dabwali, Tatia in Haryana and Ganga Nagar, Sangria and Motilu in Rajasthan.

The ginners contended that the Centre has reduced the central sales tax (CST) to 2 per cent but in Punjab, the state government did not refund the CST charged over and above 2 per cent. "This results in a loss of Rs 150 to Rs 200 per quintal", Bansal added.

He said that due to tax advantages in other sates, about 6 lakh bales of cotton (one bale = 170 kilogram) is sold out of Punjab every year.

The association also wants a dry port to be created at Bhatinda to facilitate the export of cotton yarn. "In order to create an interface between the industry and farmers, the state government should arrange events in the Bhatinda belt," he added.

The ginning industry contributes about Rs 100 crore per annum in the form of market fee to the state exchequer.

A pro-active approach by the state government would not only raise the revenue but create better employment opportunities for the youth of the state, the association added.

Pakistan to give full MFN status to India by Dec 2012Courtesy: www.newsbbc.com

The 7th round of India-Pakistan talks on Commercial and Economic Co-operation was held during 20-21 September 2012 at Islamabad between the Commerce Secretaries of India and Pakistan. The Indian delegation was led by Mr. S R Rao, Commerce Secretary and Pakistan's was led by Mr. Munir Qureshi, Secretary, Commerce.

The Pak is tan s ide expressed appreciation of the steps taken by India to reduce its South Asian Free Trade Area (SAFTA) sensitive list by 30% from 878

tariff lines to 614 tariff lines as agreed earlier during the 6th Round of Talks. The Indian side explained that out of 264 tariff lines which have been removed from India's SAFTA sensitive list, 155 tariff lines pertain to agricultural commodities and 106 tariff lines relate to textile items. To further deepen the preferential arrangements under SAFTA and to provide level playing field to Pakistani exporters in comparison to concessions allowed by India under SAFTA to rest of the countries in the SAARC region, both sides developed a long term plan. It was noted that Pakistan now has a total of 936 tariff lines at 6 digit under its SAFTA Sensitive List, as against 614 tariff lines at 6 digit of India.

It was agreed that after Pakistan has notified its removal of all restrictions on trade by Wagah-Attari land route, the Indian side would bring down its SAFTA sensitive list by 30% before December, 2012 keeping in view Pakistan's export interests. Pakistan would transition fully to Most Favorable Nation (MFN) status for India by December 2012 as agreed earlier. India would thereafter bring down its SAFTA Sensitive List to 100 tariff lines at 6 digit level by April, 2013.

As India notifies the reduced Sensitive List, Pakistan, after seeking approval of the Cabinet, will also simultaneously notify its dates of transition to bring down its SAFTA sensitive list to a maximum of 100 tariff lines at 6 digit level within next 5 years. The reductions shall be notified by Pakistan in equal measure for each year so as to complete reduction to 100 lines before end of 2017.

Thus, before the end of 2017, both India and Pakistan would have no more than 100 (6 digit) tariff lines in their respective SAFTA sensitive lists. Before the end of year 2020, except for this small number of tariff lines under respective SAFTA sensitive lists, the peak tariff rate for all other tariff lines would not be more than 5%.

Courtesy: wikkipedia

5Textile Value Chain | October-December 2012

Italy, Pakistan to boost bilateral textile tradeCourtesy: www.fibre2fashion.com

The Italian Trade Commissioner Dr. Antonio Avallone met Pakistan's Federal Advisor on Textile, Dr. Mirza Ikhtiar Baig to discuss proposals to boost trade and investment between the two nations, especially in the textile sector. Appreciating the support extended by Italy to Pakistan for gaining zero-duty market access to the EU, Dr. Baig updated the Italian trade commissioner about the salient features of Pakistan Textile City project at Bin Qasim near Karachi. Dr. Antonio articulated his interest in the project and agreed to attend a presentation on the project at Karachi on September 8, 2012. Dr. Antonio also discussed the prospects of promoting Italian textile machineries in Pakistan, while Dr. Baig informed him about his recent meeting with Pakistan's President on formation of the committee on revival of the textile industry. During the meeting, Dr. Baig also discussed progress on market access with a special focus on Generalized System of Preference (GSP) Plus allowing Pakistan to duty-free ship its goods to the EU, effective from January 1, 2014. Also, he informed Dr. Antonio about the upcoming new Trade Frame Work 2012-2015, setting forth a target of achieving a US$ 100 billion in exports over the next three years.

Global News

US: Polartec partner creates first 100% recycled garmentCourtesy: www.topix.com

Polartec partner brand Norrna has launched its first sports garment (men's and women's) made exclusively from returned and recycled bottles. The 100% recycled garment is built from Polartec Wind Pro fleece made entirely of Repreve 100 yarn from Unifi which is made from recycled bottles. Polartec uses REPREVE 100 yarn from Unifi for over 50 percent of its domestic production, and for the 29 warm4 up-cycled Jacket. The REPREVE yarn was made from recycled bottles collected in Norrna's home country, Norway. About 40 plastic bottles were used to make each /29 warm4 up-cycled Jacket and Norrna estimates that the production of each REPREVE based jacket uses 20-percent less energy than a virgin fleece, without sacrificing performance. The particular recycled Polartec Wind Pro fabric features a high loft interior, providing increased warmth without weight. Polartec Wind Pro is four times more wind resistant than traditional fleece, highly breathable, durable, and water repellent, making the /29 up-cycled warm4 Jacket a very versatile product for the whole year.

"The goal is to recycle up the value

RITE Group event to tackle key sustainability issuesCourtesy: www.ecotextile.com

High-level industry specialists from across the clothing and textile industries are gearing up for this year's RITE Group (Reducing the Impact of Textiles on the Environment) conference, which takes place in October at Central Hall, Westminster, London.

The event will feature Green Carpet Challenge (GCC) founder Livia Firth, who will team up with British TV presenter, Observer journalist and author Lucy Siegle to host a special session looking at 'raising the bar' and profile of sustainable fashion and consumption. Delegates will also hear from Lord Peter Melchett, Policy Director at the Soil Association, who will be providing details of the Soil Association's forthcoming 'Have you Cottoned on Yet?' campaign. The campaign, which launches in October, will gather evidence which shows that organic cotton is the long-term goal for brands wanting to offer sustainable textiles by setting out five unique benefits of organic.

Interface unveils Fotosfera, its first product made from bio-based nylonLatest innovation moves company closer to zero virgin raw materials

Global carpet tile manufacturer Interface is striding ahead in its Mission Zero quest to eliminate its impact on the environment by 2020 with the unveiling of its first ever truly commercial carpet tile made from plant (or bio) based nylon. Fotosfera consists of yarn exclusive to Interface that is made from castor plant oil produced in rural communities. The product supports Interface's strategy to reduce its reliance on virgin petro-chemical raw materials and delivers strong environmental and socio-economic benefits.

Castor oil, the main ingredient of Fotosfera, is produced from the seeds of the castor bean plants, that are fast-growing, rapidly renewable, and grow in hot, dry climates, in sandy loam soil. Hardier than many other crops, they can thrive in land prone to erosion, and only require water once in up to 25 days.

Around 70% of the world's castor bean plants are grown in India, where production also provides socio-economic benefits to local farmers. Castor bean plants grow on marginal land where other crops often struggle, providing farmers with additional income. What's more, unlike many other crops for bio-based materials, castor bean plants don't compete with food crops, as they can thrive on land unsuitable for other uses.

Nigel Stansfield, Chief Innovations Officer for Interface comments, Fotosfera is a breakthrough product innovation for Interface. It has the good looks and high performance customers expect from our

carpet tiles. But with 63% bio-based yarn content, Fotosfera accelerates our Mission Zero aim to eradicate our use of virgin petrochemical raw materials in our products by 2020; it also provides sustainable business opportunities for rural farmers. This is early days but it's a compelling proof of us pushing the boundaries of what is possible continually innovating in order to meet our customers' demands for ever more sustainable products.

Interface and Zero virgin materialsOne of the pledges of Interface Founder

Ray Anderson in 1994 was to 'cut the reliance on oil'. Fotosfera is the latest in a series of Interface initiatives aimed at eliminating the company's use of virgin petrol chemical raw materials and 'closing the loop'. It follows the successful uptake of Biosfera 1 the industry's first carpet collection made from 100% recycled yarn and comes hot on the heels of the launch of an innovative pilot in Danajon Bank, the Phili ppines. The pilot aims to build a community-based supply chain for recycled fishing nets, providing alternative raw materials for Interface products while cleaning beaches and delivering socio-economic benefits to the local community.

With breakout sessions exploring Closed Loop Recycling, Harmful Chemicals and Textile Pollution, and Sustainable Cotton Futures, other confirmed speakers for the conference, which takes place on Wednesday 10 October, include Baroness Lola Young OBE, Mike Barry, Head of Sustainable Business, Marks & Spencer, Pavel Misiga, Sustainable Consumption, European Commission, Mark Held, Secretary General, European Outdoor Group, Mike Shragger, Swedish Fashion Academy, Cyndi Rhodes, CEO Worn Again; and Giusy Bettoni, from the eco-fashion hub C.L.A.S.S.

As global population rises and the pressure to source more raw materials to make clothes intensifies, noted John Mowbray from RITE, then the need for more sustainable sourcing by retailers and a more intelligent way of shopping by consumers becomes much more important.

F o r f u r t h e r d e t a i l s , v i s i t www.ecotextile.com/uploads/2012RITEConf.pdf

chain, so that bottles can be turned into advanced sportswear," explains Norrna owner and chief executive Jorgen Jorgensen.

For more information, v i s i t po la r tec .com. REPREVE is a registered trademark of Unifi, Inc.

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Bansware Syntex & Treves SA, France.Courtesy:/www.indiantextilejournal.com

Banswara Syntex Ltd. has entered into a joint venture agreement with Treves S.A. of France with 50:50 equity shareholding to be known as Treves Banswara Pvt. Ltd. This new JV company will produce laminated knitted and woven textiles for internal furnishing of trains, buses and other automobiles.

Treves S.A., based in Paris, designs, manufactures and supplies automotive parts. Its products include acoustic, thermal and aerodynamic shields for engine compartments and substructures; interior trims, acoustics and door panels; seats and seat components; and automotive textiles and covering materials.

Faurecia SA announced that the Company signed a new 50/50 joint-venture agreement with Howa Textile Industry Co., Ltd. The new joint-venture - Faurecia Howa Interiors (FHI) - will be based in Atsugi (Japan) and will be dedicated to the development of vehicle interior systems such as door panels, in-vehicle insulation, soft trim and roof trim.

Joint Ventures

Datalog Technologies Pvt. Ltd and Pinter FA, NICourtesy:/www.indiantextilejournal.com

Datalog Technologies Pvt Ltd and Pinter FA.NI have signed for a joint venture.The integration of FA.NI activities into Pinter Group allows both companies to get the benefit of the other company from their individual experiences on textile automation business.

DATALOG provide a total solution to the IT requirements of the textile mills. Datalog manufactures on line monitoring system for spinning, weaving, knitting mills & process house and develops custom hardware and software. The products of the company are well accepted by the market and has carved a niche name for itself among the customers for its products due to its innovation and reliability. The company has installations in all leading mills in India. Indonesia, Rwanda, Australia, Mauritius, Thailand, Bangladesh, and Chile have the installations abroad.

The installations cover more than 13,000 machines in around 250 mills worldwide. The Company has two Directors " Mr S Gopalakrishnan and Mr C B Krishnan who hold a degree in electronics and have a vast experience in hardware and software, especially on textile electronics and software. Having experience of more than 2 decades in textile electronics and software for textiles, both the Directors had been in employment in the research & development department in their previous employment. The Company has a team of hardware and software engineers who are well trained.

Apart from the Directors, the company has a team of young and talented Electronics & Software professionals to carry out the operations of the company.

HUNTSMAN TEXTILE EFFECT AND PT LUCKY PRINT ABADI (LPA), IndonesiaCourtesy:/www.indiantextilejournal.com

Huntsman Textile Effects has announced a strategic partnership with PT Lucky Print Abadi (LPA) that will see the global textile leader being awarded the coveted Preferred Supplier Status for LPAs dyes and chemical requirements. This partnership will see Huntsman Textile Effects actively supporting LPA in differentiating itself in the market through the supply of high quality textile dyes, chemicals and world-class technical service support.

Commented Mr Kent Kvaal, vice-president of Global Sales and Technical Services at Huntsman Textile Effects, "We are very pleased to be conferred the Preferred Supplier Status by LPA. This sends a strong signal that we are on the right track and that our unwavering focus on sustainability and innovation has indeed supported our business partners in enabling their products to be highly differentiated yet environmentally-friendly in this competitive market. As LPA's Preferred Supplier, we are confident that Huntsman Textile Effects will continue to deliver the same exacting, world-class technical service solutions and high quality dyes and chemicals that will give LPA the added competitive edge."

Added Ms Lily Tamin, managing director of LPA, "We are happy to partner with Huntsman who is known for their innovative and excellent technical service. This partnership will bring new standards and productivity levels for both organisations, which are critical in today's business environment. This will help us to bring differentiation to the market and to cater to the needs of end customers."

In association with Cotton Incorporated, LPA has also developed "Natural Stretch",

Atlas Material Testing Technology and SGSCourtesy:/www.indiantextilejournal.com

Atlas Material Testing Technology, a global leader in accelerated weathering instruments and weathering testing services has entered into an alliance with SGS, the world's leading inspection, verification, testing and certification company, allowing for the expansion of the Atlas 25+ PV module durability test program.

Atlas-SGS collaboration, the standard Atlas 25+ exposure and testing protocol will be enhanced beginning July 2012 with the availability of two new versions of the program - a six-month streamlined "basic" program for those needing faster results, and an expanded 12-month "premium" offering that includes additional climate factors and performance measurements.

SGS will offer Atlas 25+ as both a stand-alone program and as an optional part of its larger "SGS - PV Performance Tested" scheme, which includes options for corrosive gas (eg, NH3), salt mist, fire, and potential- induced-degradation (PID) resistance among others.

SGS is accredited as a National Certification Body (NCB) and is one of five German CB testing laboratories (CBTL) within the IECEE certification scheme for photovoltaics SGS.

Mr Rick Weiler, Division Vice-President and Business Unit Manager of Atlas Material Testing Technology stated, "Atlas is extremely pleased to partner with a global leader in inspection, verification, testing and certification like SGS. This alliance helps our customers obtain from a single source both our recognised Atlas 25+ PV durability testing and certification of the test results from SGS. This combination provides manufacturers with information critical to product development while supporting their warranty and competitive sales positions. The entire PV industry can benefit from our

partnership and we look forward to offering additional joint solutions with SGS."

Meanwhile, Atlas Material Testing Technology, the global leader in weathering technology and services, has launched a re-design of its corporate website www.atlas-mts.com with an improved user interface and a new look and feel. The simple and clean site design is part of the company's mission to continuously meet the needs of customers by providing improved nav igat ion and bet te r organization of content for greater ease.

DLF AND LODHA GROUPCourtesy:/www.indiantextilejournal.com

DLF, India's biggest real estate firm, which is looking to offload its non-core assets to pare debt, has reached an understanding with the Lodha Group to jointly develop its 17-acre Mumbai Textile mill plot. The exact terms of the profit-sharing agreement will be finalized in a fortnight, say sources close to the deal.

The plot has a developable space of 4 million sq ft and Lodha has plans to develop a premium housing project on the lines of Lodha Bellissimo, a 48-storey tower on N M Joshi Marg at Lower Parel. Flats in the area are now quoting over Rs40,000 a sq ft.

a 100% Cotton Stretch Fabric and "Wicking Windows" Moisture Management technology that makes wearing cotton even more comfortable to the discerning customer. This partnership marks another new milestone for both companies who have already been working actively in the printing and dyeing solutions business for the past 2-years.

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NEW AGE FIBRES AND YARNS

For thousands of years all of the fibres used to make cloth were natural fibres. Now, almost half of the fibres produced in the world are synthetic fibres made from tress, oil and natural gas. It is basically broken down to: Cotton (45%), Synthetics made from oil and natural gas (36%), Jute and Synthetics made from tress (6%), Wool (5%) and all other natural fibres (2%).Most of this change has taken place in the last 50 yrs. Developments in fibre and yarn technologies are having an impact on both natural and synthetic materials. Fibre engineers are creating fibres that combine the benefit of both, sometimes even bringing them together literally to form hybrids. Performance is enhanced by the handle and comfort associated with natural fibres, while natural fibres are engineered to be as easy care as artificial fibres. These synthetics and hybrids are far removed from the original 'artificial silk' rayon which in reality had nothing like the handle and lustre of the natural fibre it purported to re-create. While the original synthetics were poor imitations of more expensive natural materials, the engineered fibres that we are seeing today are much more highly valued in every sense.

One of the most significant changes to occur in the textile industry has been the attitude. Research and development laboratories no longer try to imitate nature; instead they look to combine the finest qualities of natural and man-made while seeking out their own aesthetics and benefits for the consumer. As new production techniques become available, the opportunities for engineering fibres and yarns stretch from large-scale to the nano, invisible to the naked eye.

The extent to which fibres and yarns can now be engineered is allowing for a dramatic increase in the development of fibres for wellness, health and protection. In this article we take a look at the evolving fibres and yarns from different parts of the world.

Hybrid FibreEnvironmental concerns are encouraging many

manufactures to focus on the use of a single fibre within their yarns; developments in engineered fibres are making this more achievable. However, there are still and will remain reasons for bringing different qualities of fibres together: particularly for performance, health and safety reasons. A category of hybrid compounds is starting to emerge. Thought not a fibre in the conventional sense, they most closely resemble a yarn or fibre in that they contain a central textile component and because of the manner in which they are used.

UK based Speciality Fibres and Materials Ltd., uses melt spinning process to melt thermoplastic polymer chips. From this they make precision yarns in medicine. They incorporate barium sulphate (crystalline solid use to provide radio contrast in X-rays) into polypropylene yarn. Micropake is an X-ray detectable yarn that can be used in woven and nonwoven products such as surgical gauze. The yarn contains 60% barium sulphate. The crystalline solid is insoluble in water and would be extremely difficult to apply to a yarn using more conventional coating or finishing processes. They also make highly absorbent and gelling calcium alginate fibres which are manufactured from sodium alginate extracted from seaweed. Calcium alginate is used worldwide in the production of wound dressings where the principle of a moist wound environment encourages more effective healing.

Ms. Rajul J. ShahEditor in chiefMFA in Fashion Design, Academyof Art University, CA, USAWorked in USA as Technical Designer

A routine X-ray can easily detect the barium sulphate within the multifilament yarn which runs through the swab

Yuxin woven polyester geogrid, Shandong Shenghao Fibreglass Co.

Ltd, China.The company use both polyester and glass fibre in their range of geogrids

with yarn coatings that include bitumen and PVC. The fabric is used for reinforcement in roads, railways

and bridges.

The Swiss-based Schoeller Spinning Group produces a number of aramid- based hybrid fibres. They use Kevlar, Panox, glass filament and viscose in various combinations and permutations. The combinations of these fibres in various percentage means that the resulting yarn has the cut and abrasion resistance and heat protection required to make clothing for fire-services, motorcyclists, backing for aluminized protective suits and cut-resistant protective clothing.

Coated Fibres and YarnsWhile majority of coatings and treatments are applied to the

finished fabric, there is an increasing trend to apply these treatments to fibres and yarns. This is generally for high performance and specialist applications, but as costs come down there is likely to be an increase in demand and availability.

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Multi-axial weave, RWTH Aachen, Germany.

Two different glass fibres have been used in this weave. The material is

used for industrial applications where high strength and flame retardancy

are required.

Bekinox LT, Bekaert, Belgium.These slivers of stainless steel fibres can be used on their own or combined with other fibres for anti-static applications such as carpets.

Scotchlite yarns, 3M, USA.Available as tapes and fabrics for years, 3M are now manufacturing Scothlite in yarn, including coloured form. It is retro-reflective due to the coating of miniature glass beads around the fibre that reflects incoming artificial light back to the source.

The Schoeller Spinning Group is responding to the demand for comfort combined with high performance in their development of a wool and stainless steel yarn for anti-static clothing. The yarn in cross-section shows 92% Merino wool randomly interspersed with 8% Inox stainless steel fibre. The yarn can be easily dyed and knitted and is capable of being finished with treatments such as Teflon without interfering with the shielding performance. The ability to combine several capabilities in a single yarn is relatively new. Less than a decade ago this would not have been possible without reducing, or even destroying, the performance of one or both functionalities.


Banana cotton fabric, Technical Fabric Services (TFS), Australia.Banana fibres in textiles offer sustainable product that is highly absorbent. Fibres are extracted from the bark of the plant and then combined with cotton and elastane for comfort and stretch in fabrics for intimate apparel.

Nanocoatings have made progress largely in fabrics, but are starting to appear on the individual fibres. Researchers at Cornell University's Textiles Nanotechnology Laboratory have developed a way of coating fibres with polyelectrolytes, inorganic and metallic nanolayers, to develop specialist high-performance and smart materials. Developments include, cotton coated with silver and gold nanoparticles to produce an anti-bacterial yarn that destroys bacteria and reduces the need for washing. They have also coated nylon nanofibres with gold nanoparticles and anomalous crystal formations of NaC(R) for potential applications in the active filtration of hazardous gases and toxic chemicals as well as anti-counterfeiting devices.

Researchers at Georgia Institute of technology are looking into ways to optimize the collection of solar energy. The majority of systems rely on flat panels directed at the sun either as static systems or capable of rotating to follow the direction of the sun's rays. At Georgia, they are researching how to create a Photovoltaic (PV) fibre that can be woven into the membrane. To achieve this, they are nanocoating fibre optics with a dye-sensitized PV coating. The cladding of the fibre optic is removed and replaces with a conductive coating and seed layer of zinc oxide. Zinc oxide nanowire is then grown on this prepared surface so that the result is a coating of fur nanowires. This is coated with a dye-sensitized PV material before being immersed in liquid electrolyte to collect current from the PV reaction. The ends of the fibre are directed at the sun: light enters the unclad fibre optic carrying it along and through the wall to the nano PV so that it covers a very large area. Researchers are confident that it will prove much more efficient than conventional systems of collection.

Sweden's Swerea IVF is developing a process of coating microfibers with nanofibres. The aim is to use fibres to create scaffolding for tissue engineering based on the principle of collagen.

TechnonaturalsMuch of the technology of the technonaturals has been

driven by the apparel market. Lessons have been learnt from development of health-giving, highly engineered fibres in the 1990's when performance was high but tactile qualities were low. In combining natural with synthetic or creating hypernaturals, these new yarns look to combine the best of both worlds, delivering performance with good tactile qualities.

Cocona fibre. Cocona Inc, USA, 2009.Cocona activated carbon is manufactured from coconut waste and absorbs odour and offers UV protection. It is not depleted during washing or wearing because it is embedded in the fibre.

The Lenzing Group's key product is lyocell, a cellulose fibre made from wood pulp sold under the trade name Tencel. The wood pulp is converted into nanofibrils using nanotechnology so that the result is an exceptionally fine yarn that offers high moisture management with good tactile properties. Tencel absorbs excess liquid and then quickly releases it into the atmosphere to help to keep the body at a comfortable temperature. This function carries an additionally anti-bacterial benefit because, since excess water is moved away from the skin, bacteria have less opportunity to grow. When it is used in conjunction with aramid fibres, it provides high fire protection with comfort, especially important in firefighting workwear where clothing has to be worn for prolonged periods of time under stressful conditions.

Smartfiber AG produce a lyocell fibre, SeaCell, with enhanced health properties. It uses seaweed as an active ingredient in the lyocell fibre. Seaweed has long been used in Chinese medicine and is recognized as offering protection for the skin; it also contains anti-inflammatory properties. There is what is termed an 'active exchange' between the fibre and the skin. The company describes how there is an exchange of substances between the fibre and the skin with nutrients such as calcium, magnesium and vitamin E released by the body's natural moisture when a garment using the fibre is worn. Algae are particularly good at absorbing metal. This has prompted a second version of the fibre, SeaCell active plus, which sees silver ions added for anti-bacterial benefits. Seaweed forms the basis for a new range of wound dressings that are highly absorbent, encouraging faster healing.

Advanced production processes are making it possible to work with non-textile materials to convert them into yarns. This has the advantage of combining flexibility of a yarn with the performance of ceramic and metals. Smartcel Ceramic is made by Smartfiber AG and brings together cellulose and ceramic resulting in a 100% ceramic fibre. The Smartcell Ceramic can be produced in different forms including hollow and spiral structures; the choice driven by the end application. A sintered PZT ceramic fibre has the ability to stretch when exposed to alternating voltage-producing soundwaves in the process. This gives it application in ultrasound products such as sonar systems for locating obstructions and medical imaging.

Andreas Lendlein (mNemoscience, Germany), 2002. Sequence of images showing the world's first 'intelligent' suture tying itself into a knot within 20 seconds when it is exposed to 41c. In 1997, while working at MIT, Lendlein developed a shape memory polymer that would respond to body temperature. Shape memory materials can memorize a permanent shape and are automatically transformed into this permanent shape when exposed to a suitable external trigger such as body heat. Lendlein sutures are designed for keyhole surgery and are made from polymeric material that encourages tissue renewal and biodegrade naturally within the body. The sutures are now being developed for commercial production. mNemoscience is currently working on light-sensitive shape memory materials.

Sequence of images showing the world's first

'intelligent' suture

Waterborn synthetic upholstery fibre


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Morphotex, Teijin Ltd, Japan.The inspiration for the fibre comes from the Morpho butterfly which uses optic effects to provide protective camouflage in the Amazon rainforest. This fibre is produced using nanotechnology

Waterborn is a new synthetic fibre upholstery fabric manufactured almost entirely without the use of organic solvents. It was developed by Kvadrat in close co-operation with a leading fibre producer in Japan. Organic solvents were avoided by using polyurethane dispersed in water to impregnate a non-woven fabric made of polyester and nylon. By heating the fabric, the polyurethane covers the fibres, creating a composite fabric. As a result, organic solvent emissions are reduced to approx 8% of conventional production emissions. The surface qualities of Waterborn were designed by French architect Jean Nouvel.

NanotechnologyNanotechnology is at a relatively young stage of

development with much of the work still at research stage. It is a field of material design where the smallest man-made devices encounter the atoms and molecules of the natural world ( for comparative purposes, a nanometre is a billionth of a metre, the diameter of an atom is about a 1/ 4 of a nanometre, the average diameter of a human hair is 10,000 nanometres). Advances are being made in many areas such as the production of high-strength carbon nanotubes, but scale and the cost of production still have to be overcome in order to make it a viable manufacturing process. Nanotubes are tube-shaped material made from carbon atoms bound together to create a stiff structure that forms the strongest existing bond. Nanotubes are good conductors for heat and electricity. They are sub-microscopic carbon fibres and are light, strong and very flexible, although each one is only 10 -50 nanometres in diameter.

Carbon nanotubes.Developed by a research team led by Gordon Wallace from Australia's Commonwealth Scientific and Research Organization (CSIRO)'s Division of Textile and Fibre.

There are also specially treated fibres that capture heat from the environment or your body. The energy from the heat is held inside the fibres in microcapsules until the temperature drops. Then the microcapsules release the heat, through the fibres and back into the environment.

New spinning technologies are revolutionizing what can be achieved in terms of performance and comfort in fibres and yarns. Electrospinning is yielding some very encouraging results in the productions of nanofibres. Creativity, ingenuity and a passion for fibres and yarns underlie these changes. The innovations that we are seeing are driven by the consumer: by changes in consumer demographics, engagement with the environment and growing awareness of global social responsibility. This is a time of change and change is good. Ten years from now you may be wearing a shirt or pants made of polyester from a potato. Your jacket may store heat during the day and then use that heat to keep you warm at night. Possibilities are endless and they will happen in our near future...

Bibliography1. Textiles Today a global survey of trends and traditions -

chloe colchester2. Advanced Textiles for health and Well-Being - Mari

O'Mahony3. Unraveling Fibers - Patricia A. Keeler and Francis X.

McCall, Jr.4. www.specialityfibres.com

FutureIn the future, the fibres we use will continue to change. Some

fibres will go out of fashion, while others will become popular. Scientists will improve existing fibres and create new ones. Some of these changes are already happening. Selected genes have been put into tiny mouse-ear cress plants so that they are able to grow polymers like polyester. Unlike, the polyester from petroleum, however the new plant-grown polymers are biodegradable. This means they can be easily broken down by nature. Soon scientists hope to produce such polymers from corn and potatoes.

A mouse-ear cress plant, shown actual size

Red areas on this enlarged picture of mouse-ear cress plant show

where new polymers have grown

Enlarged microcapsules.

Inside of a synthetic fibre enlarged 2000 times.One can see several microcapsules nestled in the fibre.

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PRODUCTION PROCESSES FORVALUE ADDED FANCY YARNS

IntroductionConventional ring spinning system has been adopted since

over 100 years. Different spinning systems used for yarn manufacturing other than ring spinning are open-end spinning, hollow spindle and wrap spinning. End product applications of the yarn vary based on their structure and physical properties. The normal yarn structure should be as regular as possible with fibres twisted together to form a continuous strand of uniform thickness. Value added yarns are specially produced by spinning, twisting, doubling and wrapping. There is a huge commercial potential for these yarns due to their special aesthetic appearance and the high decorative value which they impart to the woven and knitted fabrics. This article gives an overview of the different types of value added yarns that can be produced during spinning and post-spinning stages. Fancy yarn is a common value addition in the production processes that deviate from the normal structure with decorative discontinuities in the form of colour, visual and texture effects. They are made with distinct irregular profile or different construction and differ from basic single and folded yarns. Spiral, gimp, slub, knop, loop, cover, chenille and snarl are the different fancy yarn effects that are applied in apparels and home furnishings.

Ring Spinning SystemOne of the oldest methods of yarn production system is the

ring spinning. This system is used for production of yarns in

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Dr. S. K. Chattopadhyay,G. Krishna Prasad, G.T.V. PrabuScientist of Central Institute for Research,Cotton Technology (ICAR), Mumbai

Ring spinning yarn triangle Ring spinning yarn triangle

Multi twist yarn Slub yarn

Multi effect yarn Multi count yarn

Multi effect yarn Multi count yarn

Fig.1: Various yarn structures produced fromring spinning machines with modification

coarse to fine counts depending on the fibre properties and the requirement of the customer. It is the most versatile and widely accepted spinning technology due to high degree of fibre control during drafting and a wide range of yarn count that it can produce. Cotton and other blends of man-made fibres up to 60 mm length can be used on the system for yarn production. Improvement in ring spinning came in the form of compact spinning. In compact spinning, the spinning geometry was bettered and refined by incorporating a condensed air suction device. A modified aerodynamics at the yarn formation point, results in better integration of fibres into the yarn structure which ultimately provides higher yarn strength and reduced hairiness. In compact yarn, less twist is feasible without any loss of strength. This results in lower production costs and manufacturing of softer yarns.

External attachments used in the ring spinning system for the production of slub yarn, multi-count, multi-twist, multi-effect yarns are shown in Fig.1. These yarns can be produced by acceleration of the middle and the back roller with the help of a servo control system. Slub yarns can be produced with two different formations; (i) by varying the number of slubs per metres, keeping slub length and diameter constant and (ii) varying the slub length and diameter. Multi-count yarns are produced by varying the draft and the twist. Multi-twist yarns are produced by varying the twist levels with a constant count. Multi-effect yarns are produced with the combination of slub, multi-count and multi-twist. These types of yarns are used for imparting special effects in the application areas like denim, formal wear, knitted and home textiles.

Siro yarns are produced in the ring spinning system using a specially designed path and a drafting method to combine the roving strands together through twisting action. Wider strand spacing is required for better yarn properties like tenacity, abrasion resistance, hairiness and trapped strand twist. The optimum strand spacing for combed cotton is about 9 mm. Siro spun cotton yarns are less hairy and more extensible as compared to conventional two plied yarn, but inferior in evenness and imperfections.

Eli Twist yarns are basically compact ring doubled yarns, in which the doubling takes place in the ring frame and the yarn is single wound. It is mostly used for high-end shirting fabric. The manufacturing system combines compact spinning and twisting of a yarn in one single operation. It produces a two-ply yarn with identical direction of twist in both the yarn legs.

Doubling ProcessDoubling is a process for improving the yarn quality and

providing better value to the yarns. It improves the handle, strength and elongation capability of the yarn without any chemical treatment. In general, ring doubling is the most popular among all the other doubling processes available. The ring doubling arrangement is similar to a ring spinning machine devoid of any drafting attachments. The yarn can be fed independently to the machine at a controlled speed to produce the doubled yarn. Micro processer controlled doubling machines are gaining a lot of attention in recent years. These machines produce fancy yarns by changing the feeding arrangement, tensioning adjustment and by using dyed yarn combination. Fancy yarns produced by using the ring frame setups are loop, spiral and bunch yarns as shown in Fig.2.

Loop yarns are made in the ring spinning system by using one or two regular yarns and an effect yarn at the front top groove roller. These yarns are fed with different speed to get the loop formations. Loop yarns have round and regular shaped loops which are identical or of different sizes on the surface. Snarl yarn production is similar to that of loop yarns, except for a difference in the property of the effect yarn. For snarl yarn, a high level of twist in the effect yarn is needed with high overfeed ratio.


In a spiral yarn, one component binds the other straight yarn component, thus creating spirals along the whole length. The spiral yarn is created as a result of the multi ple twisting of two components with slightly overfeeding one of the two yarns. Similar effects are produced with the same or a sl ightly different l inear density, and a different twist direction.

Bunch yarns are produced by using two yarns and twisting them together one yarn will be

Hollow Spindle SystemsThe hollow spindle technique is used to wrap the continuous

filament or spun yarn around a central core of parallel staple fibres, which results in production of a fascinated yarn structure. In this system, both short and long staple fibre can be used. Fig.4 shows three effect yarns over core yarns effect yarns are drafted similar to ring spinning. Rotation of hollow spindle wraps the effect yarn around the core yarn. Two spindle wrap system is used to wrap staple fibre with two binder yarns which results in special effect yarn and staple structures. Combination of both hollow and ring spinning system is also used for production of fancy yarns. The true twist is given to warp yarn by ring spindle which is located beneath the hollow spindle system. Appearance and behaviour of hollow spindle fancy yarn is quiet different from the ring spun yarn.

Fig.2: Fancy yarn producedfrom ring frame setups

Snarl yarn

Spiral yarn

Loop yarn

the core and the other is introduced at the twisting zone at a higher yarn tension. The effect yarn will create effect points, locally compacted at regular or irregular distances.

Rotor SpinningRotor spinning plays a vital role to produce a fancy effect

yarn either in colour or as on interruption in the yarn structure. A count range from 6s to 24s is commercially viable in rotor spinning system for fancy yarns with short and medium staple fibre. Fascinate units have been introduced to produce slub effect which is deliberately created in discontinued manner. Fancy yarns are produced by changing the feed roller surface speed by using the stepped servo motor. The standard drives for the feed and take-off cylinders are replaced by special, processor-controlled drives in order to enable the fancy yarns to be produced. The yarn produced can be used for value addition to woven and knitted fabrics.

Yarn effects

Fig.3: Slub and Multi count yarn produced in rotor spinning

Hollow Spindle system

Two Spindle Wrap system

Boucle yarns structureGimp yarns structure

Fig.4: Fancy yarns from Hollow Spindle techniques

ConclusionThe present article focuses on the various techniques

and methods for the production of value added yarns by employing existing spinning machines. Value added yarns like slub, multi-count, multi-twist and multi-effect have enough potential in creating new market segments in the apparel and home textile industry. The fashion appeal and the aesthetical superiority of such yarns make them easily acceptable and hence provide better competitiveness in the yarn market. With little modification in the existing machines, the yarn manufacturer can reap huge benefits for the value added yarns.

Bibliography:1. Carl A. Lawrence Fundamental of spun yarn

technology book, CRC Press, 2003.2. R H Gong and R M Wright Fancy yarn their manufacture

and application, Woodhead Publishing Ltd and CRC Press LLC, 2002.

3. Hechtl R., Compact spinning systems - an opportunity for improving the ring spinning process. Melliand International, 1996, Vol. 2, No. 1, pp. 12-13.

4. Egbers G., Tekstil, 1997, Vol. 46, No. 11, pp. 643-644.5. MomirNikoli et.al Compact Spinning for Improved

Quality of Ring-Spun Yarns FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe, October / December 2003, Vol. 11, No.4 (43).

6. Muhammad Mushtaq Ahmad Future belongs to compact spinning The Indian Textile Journal, August, 2009.

7. C.A. Lawrence Advances in yarn spinning technology, Woodhead Publishing Ltd 2010.

8. KatarzynaEwaGrabowska et.al The Influence of Component Yarns' Characteristics and Ring Twisting Frame Settings on the Structure and Properties of Spiral, Loop and Bunch Yarns FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe July / September 2006, Vol. 14, No. 3 (57).

9. www.rieter.com10. W Klein, New Spinning System, The Textile Institute,

1993.11. www.fancytex.com


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RATAN GLITTERSINDUSTRIES LIMITED

Ratan Glitter Industries Limited is a 35 year old organization managed by a highly experienced team. We are the pioneer in the metallic yarn industry in India, having been one of the first companies to export metallic yarns.

We have one of the world's latest Metalizing Plant that metalizes Pure Silver on Polyester Film.

Our Specialized Pure Silver Metalized Yarn can be used to weave with materials such as Denim Fabric, Cotton Fabric, Pure Silk Fabric & Woolen Fabrics etc. It can be washed with Heavy Detergent Caustic Soda and other processing chemicals used for Dyeing, Finishing of linen, Cotton, Pure Silk, Denim and Woolen Fabrics.

The Pure Silver Metallic Yarn can also be used for different types of Embroidery and special effects. The threads come in

different structure, thickness, colors and a combination of materials allowing Designers and Embroidery specialists to create an unique and outstanding look to the Fabric. The Pure Silver yarn effectively enhances the details and embellishes your products giving it added glamour and zing.

Some of the leading Indian mills and some companies' overseas already use our products.

Quality assured since we use the latest Japanese Technology thus ensuring the best quality, color and pin hole free products. The products are capable of running on high speed weaving, knitting and embroidery machines. It can also be used in hand embroidery.


These yarns can be industrially washed using chlorine, bleaching agents, heavy duty detergents containing chlorine or peroxide as used in industrial washing. This yarn is suitable for suitable for sewing and weaving.

The Pure Silver coating, effectively enhances the details and embellishes the final products giving to glamour and zing. All of them are available in various colours and the finished material can be dyed in any color without affecting the metallic yarn.

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SPECIALIZED PURE SILVER METALLIC YARN

For the first time in India, 3 different Types of Pure Silver Metallic Yarn has been Developed to be used in weaving with the following materials :

METALLIC YARNAlong with Pure Silver Metallic Yarn, we also produced ST and Zebra Type Yarns in fluorescent, rainbow and several other colours.

These are highly used in computerized embroidery machines, circular knitting and weaving machines.

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Rattan Glitter Industries Limited

GALA WOODWORK COMPOUND, OPP. B.D.D. CHAWL NO. 114, WORLI, MUMBAI-400013, INDIA. TEL: (+91-22) 24966002/4/6; FAX: (+91-22) 24962002; email: [email protected]: www.ratanglitter.com contact person: Mr. Mahendra Yadav : +91 9004661657

PURE SILVER ST YARNPolyester Metallized Pure Silver Yarn are highly used on Schiffli embroidery machines, computerized embroidery machines and in hand embroideries. It is widely used for tapestry and made-ups.

PURE SILVER MX YARNPure Silver MX Type Metallic Yarn produced in 12 micron and 24 micron in different cuts of 1/69, 1/85, 1/100. The core yarn is in Polyester or Nylon. These yarns are capable of running on high speed weaving, knitting and circular knitting machines.

Along with Pure Silver Metallic Yarn, we also produce ST and Zebra Type Yarns in fluorescent, rainbow and several other colours. These are highly used in computerized embroidery machines, circular knitting and weaving machines.

METALLIC YARN

PURE SILVER M TYPE YARNPure Silver M Type Metallic Yarn produced in 12 micron and 24 micron in different cuts of 1/69, 1/85, 1/100. These are capable of running on high speed weaving, knitting and circular knitting machines. Also, it is used for making ST Yarn in Cotton, Polyester and Viscose.

PURE SILVER FABRICSPure Silver fabrics made from Pure Silver Metallic Yarn are highly used in clothes and for decorative purpose in:Gift Articles, Home Furnishings & accessories such as hand bags and various other products.

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Abstract From ancient times natural dyes are known, but they are

again gaining increasing importance due to increase in awareness about sustainable environment protection and problems associated with synthetic dyes. Even though the natural dyeing has been advantageous in many ways over synthetic dyes, their limited availability of shades is hailed as one of the main limitations over synthetic dyes. Mixing of dyes to get desired shades is a common practice in case of synthetic dyes, which is however still not practiced as far as natural dyes are concerned.

In continuation of our research on mixed shades of natural dyes using various mordants, in order to overcome limited availability of shades in natural dyes, in the current study, the natural dyeing of cotton and silk was attempted using individual and mixed shades of catechu and Sappanwood using harda as a natural mordant. The various shades obtained were described in terms of colour values. The wide range of shades thus can be claimed in dyeing the compound shades of natural dyes and the issue of limited availability of shades can be overcome following this approach.

1.IntroductionTextile material (natural and synthetic) is coloured for value

addition, look and desire of the customers. In the past, this purpose of colouring textile was initiated using colours of natural source until synthetic colours/dyes were invented and commercialized. Due to ready availability of pure synthetic dyes of different types and its cost advantages, most of textile dyers/ manufacturers shifted towards use of synthetic colourants. Almost all the synthetic colourants being synthesized from petrochemical sources through hazardous chemical processes pose concerns regarding their eco-friendliness. Hence, worldwide, growing consciousness about organic value of eco-friendly products is being generated and a renewed interest of consumers towards use of textiles (preferably natural fibre product) dyed with eco-friendly natural dyes is on the rise. Vedas mentioned red, yellow, blue, black and white as main dyeing colours and expressed that, the ancient craftsman dyed blue form indigo, yellow from turmeric and saffron, brown from cutch and red from lac, safflower and madder. Thus, natural dyes have been an integral part of human life since time immemorial [1-8]. Natural dyes are derived from naturally occurring sources such as plants (e.g., indigo and saffron); insects (e.g., cochineal beetles and lac scale insects); animals (e.g., some species of molluscs or shellfish); and minerals (e.g., ferrous sulphate, ochre, and clay) without any chemical treatment. A spectrum of beautiful natural colours ranging from yellow to black exists in the above sources [9-11].

The development of synthetic dyes at the beginning of the twentieth century led to a more complete level of quality and more reproducible techniques of application. As a result, a distinct lowering in the dyestuff costs per kg of dyed goods was achieved [12]. But, during the last few decades, the use of synthetic dyes is gradually receding due to an increased environmental awareness and harmful effects because of either toxic degraded products or their non-biodegradable nature. In addition to above, some serious health hazards like allergenicity and, carcinogenicity are associated with some of the synthetic dyes. As a result, a ban has been imposed all over the world including European Economic Community (EEC), Germany, USA and India on the use of some synthetic dyes (e.g. azodyes) containing banned amines [13]. Due to increasing awareness of environmental issues and pollution controls, natural dyes are gaining importance as they are obtained from renewable resources and they present no health hazards and

some of them sometimes act as health care products [14].

Natural dyes with few exceptions are non-substantive and hence must be used in conjunction with mordants such as tannins, metallic salts and oils [15]. In the dyeing of textiles with natural dyes, tannins are used as natural mordants which are high molecular weight compounds (in-between 500 to 3000) containing phenolic hydroxyl groups and they enable effective cross-links between proteins and other macromolecules. The stability of the tannin treated fibre depends upon the pH, ionic strength and metal chelators. Tannins may be further classified into two groups on the basis of their chemical structure as hydrolysable tannins and condensed tannins [16].Caesalpinia sappan is a species of flowering tree in the legume family, Fabaceae, that is native to Southeast Asia and the Malay archi pelago. Common names include Sappanwood, Sappanwood,'Patanga Chekke Sappanga (Kannada Name)' and Suou (Japanese). Sappanwood belongs to the same genus as Brazilwood (C. echinata), and was originally called "brezel wood" in Europe. This plant has many uses. It possesses medicinal abilities as an anti-bacterial and for its anti-coagulant properties. It also produces a valued type of reddish dye called brazilin, used for dyeing fabric as well as making red paints and inks [17]. Catechu is a brown dye named as cutch and used for tanning and dyeing and for preserving fishing nets and sails. Cutch dyes wool, silk and cotton in a yellowish-brown colour. Cutch gives gray-browns with an iron mordant and olive-browns with a copper mordant.

Even though natural dyeing is considered to be eco-friendly, the use of metallic mordants which are considered to be toxic, lowers natural dye's eco-friendly advantage. A lot of research has been carried out on natural dyeing of textile fibres using variety of natural dyes and mordants. However, the area of mixing of natural dyes to get different shades is still remained unexplored. The self and mixed shades of catechu and henna using different mordants were reported earlier from our laboratory [18-20]. In continuation of the work, in the currentstudy the natural dyeing of cotton and silk has been attempted using harda as a mordant both in self and compound shades of catechu and Sappanwood and the wide range of shades explored have been presented.

2. Material and Methods2.1. Materials: Cotton and silk fabrics were supplied by Adiv-the Pure Natural. The cotton fabric was washed using shikakai (Acacia Concinna) and reetha (Soap-nut) at 600C and then used for dyeing. Catechu and Sappanwood were purchased from the market. All other chemicals used were of laboratory grade.2.2. Methods2.2.1. Extraction of mordant: The 1% stock solution was made by boiling 2.5 gm of mordant (Harda) powder in 250 ml water for 30 min. The extract was filtered and made to 250ml and used for mordanting. 2.2.2. Extraction of dye: The 1% stock solution of the dye was prepared by boiling 2.5 g of dye in 250 ml water for 30 min. The extract was filtered and made to 250ml and used for dyeing.2.2.3. Mordanting and dyeing of cotton and silk: The mordanting was carried out in rota dyer (Rota Dyer machine, Rossari Labtech, Mumbai) keeping the liquor to material ratio of 30:1.The fabrics were introduced into the mordant extract solution at room temperature and slowly the temperature was raised to 95oC. The mordanting was continued at this temperature for 60 min. After mordanting the fabric was squeezed and dyed using natural dyes (catechu and Sappanwood). The mordanted fabrics were introduced in dyebath and dyeing was continued at 900C for 60 min. After dyeing, the fabrics were squeezed and washed with cold water. 2.2.4. Compound shades on cotton and silk: In case of compound shades, the fabrics were mordanted using harda as

NATURAL DYEING OF NATURAL FIBRES

Dr. M.D Teli, Javed Sheikh,Kushalkumar Mahalle, Vijendra LabadeDepartment of Fibres and Textile Processing Technology, I.C.T division -The Pure Natural Textile

Rupa Trivedi,

2.04

Mordant Dye Colour value CIE colour co-ordinates

L*K/SCatechuHarda a* b*

5%

5%

5%

5%

15%

10%

10%

10%

15%

10%

20%

15%

15%

20%

20%

20%

5%

10%

15%

20%

5%

10%

20%

5%

15%

5%

10%

20%

10%

15%

20%

15%

1.0675 71.307

1.8807 73.929

2.3413 74.732

3.4147 75.664

1.5076 72.697

2.9972

3.0036

74.508

1.1214

75.267

1.8854

75.349

2.7664

1.7442

3.3173

72.16

72.643

69.957

3.3764

1.7514

3.4709

74.369

72.992

71.427

73.494

72.806

4.52

4.232

4.132

4.052

4.878

3.644

4.566

4.253

4.106

4.713

6.501

3.395

5.033

4.242

4.468

4.637

16.564

19.227

19.83

20.567

18.98

19.049

21.243

20.781

17.226

18.465

21.923

21.248

19.584

21.659

21.285

19.338

2.3992


L*K/SSappanwoodHarda a* b*

5%

5%

5%

5%

15%

10%

10%

10%

15%

10%

20%

15%

15%

20%

20%

20%

5%

10%

15%

20%

5%

10%

20%

5%

15%

5%

10%

20%

10%

15%

20%

15%

1.3647 72.353

1.902 73.034

2.0661 73.223

2.7639 76.191

1.6343 73.98

2.9437

2.6697

75.735

1.6369

75.221

2.0676

74.926

2.788

2.2211

2.8655

75.224

76.277

76.368

3.0917

3.0078

3.0393

76.002

75.724

76.767

75.534

76.284

5.148

7.59

7.661

7.685

2.662

4.28

5.453

5.984

1.655

4.413

1.845

2.79

6.193

3.704

5.105

4.218

26.277

29.786

32.004

37.433

22.355

22.355

28.578

29.236

22.822

25.965

32.912

28.094

29.722

31.121

29.882

25.242

a mordant as per the procedure mentioned in 2.2.3. The mordanted samples were then dyed using combination of two dyes catechu and Sappanwood taken in proportion 30:70, 50:50, and 70:30 of the total dye extract required for the targeted % shade. The dyeing procedure was same as described in 2.2.3.2.2.5. Effect of pH on dyeing of Catechu and Sappanwood: In the case of pH sensitivity study of the natural dye, the fabric samples were mordanted using harda as a mordant in the same way as mentioned in 2.2.3. The dyeing was then carried out using same procedure as mentioned in 2.2.3.and using catechu and Sappanwood at different pH (4, 7, and 9 adjusted using acetic acid and soda ash). 2.2.6. Colour value by reflectance method: The dyed samples were evaluated for the depth of colour by reflectance method using 10 observer. The absorbance of the dyed samples was measured on Rayscan Spectrascan 5100+ equipped with reflectance accessories. The K/S values were determined using expression; (1-R) 2 K/S = 2Rwhere, R is the reflectance at complete opacity; K is the Absorption coefficient & S is the Scattering coefficient Dyed fabrics were simultaneously evaluated in terms of CIELAB colour space (L*, a* and b*) values using the Rayscan Spectrascan 5100+. In general, the higher the K/S value, the higher the depth of the colour on the fabric. L* corresponding to the brightness (100= white, 0= black), a* to the redgreen coordinate (+ve= red, -ve =green) and b* to the yellowblue coordinate (+ve =yellow, -ve =blue). As a whole, a combination of all these parameters enables one to understand the tonal variations.2.2.7. Washing fastness: Evaluation of colour fastness to washing was carried out using ISO II methods [21]. A solution containing 5 g/L soap solution was used as the washing liquor. The samples were treated for 45 min at 500C using liquor to material ratio of 50:1 in rota machine. After rinsing and drying, the change in colour of the sample and staining on the un-dyed samples were evaluated on the respective standard scales (rating 1:5; where 1: poor; 2: fair; 3: good; 4: very good and 5: excellent).

3.Results and DiscussionIn continuation of the work on mixed shades of natural dyes

on natural fibres and use of non-metallic eco-friendly mordant harda, as a natural tannin source, was utilized as a mordant for dyeing of cotton and silk with natural dyes like catechu and Sappanwood and the results are presented in Tables 3.1 to 3.7.The initial attempt was to find the optimum concentration of mordant and dye to further study further the effect of mixing of dyes and pH sensitivity of the dye. The results of optimization of mordant and dye concentration are summarized in Tables 3.1-3.4. The results in Table 3.1 indicate the increase in K/S values with the increasing concentration of mordant till 15% and then it is levelled off. At the constant mordant concentration, the K/S was also found to be improving with increase in dye concentration from 5% to 20%. The various shades from light to deep can be obtained using the varying concentration of mordant and natural dye both catechu and Sappanwood. The colour value in the case of natural dyes is a combined contribution of the effect of mordant and the dye. Hence the K/S was improved with mordant and dye concentration initially till the optimum was reached. The increasing concentration of either mordant or dye beyond optimum concentration did not contribute much in the improvement in K/S values. In the case of silk fabrics, the K/S values were higher than those in cotton. This might be because of higher mordant and dye absorption by the silk fabric than cotton, which is in turn was due to presence of NH2 groups in the silk which have more affinity for such mordant dyes. Since the different results were obtained in case of catechu and Sappanwood, the optimum concentration of harda and dyes were taken as 20% and 20% respectively in case of mixing of dyes.

2.2.8. Light fastness: Dyed fabric was tested for colourfastness to light according to ISO 105/B02 [22]. The light fastness was determined using artificial illumination with Xenon arc light source, Q-Sun Xenon Testing Chamber with black standard temperature of 65 0C with relative humidity of the air in the testing chamber as 40% and daylight filter, wavelength, k= 420 nm. The samples were compared with the standard scale of blue wool reading (ratings, 1:8; where 1: poor; 2: fair; 3: moderate; 4: good; 5: better; 6: very good; 7: best and 8: excellent).The colour fastness to light was measured using test method.

Table 3.1: Effect of mordant (Harda) and dye (Sappanwood) concentration on colour strength of silk

Table 3.2: Effect of mordant (Harda) and dye (catechu) concentration on colour strength of silk

FA

BR

IC F

OC

US



L*K/SCatechuHarda a* b*


L*K/SSappanwoodHarda a* b*

The compound shades on cotton and silk using combinations ofcatechu and Sappanwood with harda as a mordant aresummarized in Table 3.5. Table 3.5: Effect of combination of two dyes (w/w) on colourstrength of silk and Cotton

Reference1. Samanta, A. K. and Konar, A., Dyeing of Textiles with Natural Dyes,

Dept of Jute and Fibre Tech., Institute of Jute Tech., Univ. of Calcutta, India.

2. Kadolph, S., The Delta Kappa Gamma Bulletin, 75 (1), 14-17, 2008.3. Chengaiah, B., Rao, K.M., Kumar, K.M., Alagusundaram, M.,

Chetty, C.M., International Journal of PharmTech Research, 2(1), 144-154, 2010.

4. Saravanan, P. and Chandramohan ,G., Universal Journal of Environmental Research and Technology, 1(3), 268-273, 2008.

5. Kumaresan, M., Palanisamy, P. N. and Kumar, P. E., International Journal of Chemistry Research, 2(1), 11-14, 2011.

6. Gulrajani, M. L. and Gupta, D., Introduction to Natural Dyes (Indian Institute of Technology, Delhi), 1992.

7. Anderson, B., Creative Spinning, Weaving and Plant Dyeing, Angus and Robinson publications, 2428, 1971.

8. Gupta, S.S., Clothsline, 6(12), 97, 1993.9. Sasson, A, Australasian Biotechnology, 3(4), 200204, 1993.10. Vankar, P., Chemistry of Natural Dyes (IIT, Kanpur), 2000.11. Ladda, K S., A Text Book of Pharmacogonosy, 3rd Ed., Vrinda

publications, 213, 2003.12. Bechtold, T., Turcanu, A., Ganglberger, E., Geissler, S., Journal of

Cleaner Production, 11, 499509, 2003.13. Kumary, J. K. and Sinha, A.K., Natural Product Letters, 18(1),

5984, 2004.14. Prabhu, K.H., Teli, M.D. and Waghmare, N., Fibers and Polymers,

12(6), 753-759, 2011.15. Vankar, P.S., Resonance, 5 (10), 73-80, 2000.16. Khanbabaee, K. and Van Ree, T., Natural Product Reports, 18,

641649, 2001.17. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caesalpinia_sappan18. Teli, M. D., Sheikh, J., Mahale, K., Labade, V. and Trivedi, R., Asian

Dyer, Accept paper.19. Teli, M. D., Sheikh, J., Mahale, K., Labade, V. and Trivedi, R.,

Journal of Textile Association, Accepted paper.20.Teli, M. D., Sheikh, J., Mahale, K., Labade, V. and Trivedi, R.,

Journal of Textile Association, Accepted paper.21. Trotmann, E.R., Dyeing and Chemical Technology of Textile Fibres,

England: Charles Griffin and Company ltd., 1984.22.ISO technical manual, Geneva, Switzerland, 2006.

The wash fastness was of the grade very goodto excellent(4-5). The rubbing fastness was in the range of good to excellent(3-5). The fastness properties were found to be comparable in the case of both the dyes and their mixtures. The fastness properties were improved with increasing mordant concentrations. The improvements in fastness properties with mordant concentration clearly indicate the positive role of mordant played in case of dyeing with natural dyes. The washing fastnesses obtained varied in the range of

2.3735

5%

5%

5%

5%

15%

10%

10%

10%

15%

10%

20%

15%

15%

20%

20%

20%

5%

10%

15%

20%

5%

10%

20%

5%

15%

5%

10%

20%

10%

15%

20%

15%

2.6033 57.283

1.8147 57.689

2.9036 57.858

1.717 59.453

2.1413 59.497

1.7684

3.4222

58.121

2.3438

58.258

1.7252

59.304

2.654

2.6168

2.9446

59.482

59.363

59.669

1.9641

2.3949

1.7252

59.291

60.196

58.876

59.611

58.935

10.728

9.021

12.878

6.941

8.89

9.253

11.145

6.413

8.35

9.501

7.967

6.893

6.739

8.218

6.854

8.899

18.667

17.811

20.164

18.941

20.234

18.979

20.212

18.165

20.082

18.623

19.125

19.803

18.778

18.579

19.399

19.521

1.7771

5%

5%

5%

5%

15%

10%

10%

10%

15%

10%

20%

15%

15%

20%

20%

20%

5%

10%

15%

20%

5%

10%

20%

5%

15%

5%

10%

20%

10%

15%

20%

15%

1.8329 64.297

1.5275 65.316

1.822 65.41

2.0756 64.796

2.3037 64.512

2.1039

2.474

65.858

1.58

64.508

1.7732

65.323

2.1203

1.6197

2.2284

65.426

65.556

65.449

2.3941

2.0402

2.3086

65.568

65.82

65.395

65.168

65.401

5.859

5.947

7.23

7.944

4.837

5.865

6.754

6.876

3.409

6.14

3.354

5.025

6.837

4.832

6.832

6.338

18.144

22.248

24.349

16.27

23.485

19.694

24.003

19.306

21.712

23.726

19.171

25.339

23.47

23.899

22.316

20.744

Table 3.3: Effect of mordant (Harda) and dye(Sappanwood) concentration on colour strength of cotton

Table 3 4: Effect of mordant (Harda) and dye (catechu)concentration on colour strength of cotton

30%

50%

70%

50%

70%

70%

50%

30%

30%

57.1954.1034

58.0784.4978

59.5234.6921

56.2095.9757

56.3676.4521

57.7037.0826

10.892

11.663

11.329

16.453

18.002

19.481

30.945

29.722

33.804

12.437

13.603

15.911

30% 70%

50%

Fabric Sappanwood(%) Catechu(%) L*K/S a* b*

Silk

Cotton

0

30

50

70

100

0

30

50

70

100

100

70

50

30

0

100

50

30

0

70

4 4

4 4

4 4

4 4.5

4 4.5

4 4

4 4

4 4

4 4.5

4 4.5

2-3

3

3

3-4

3-4

3-4

3-4

3-4

3-4

4

6

6

6

6

5

6

6

6

6

5

FabricSappan-wood(%)

Catechu(%) WashingRubbing fastness Light

fastnessDry Wet

The results clearly indicate increase in K/S value as concentration of sappanwood was increased at the cost of catechu. However, the different tones in the shades were obtained ranging from typical red of sappanwood to brown of catechu.

The fastness properties of the representative samples were estimated and are presented in Table 3.6.

good to excellent grade. Light fastness was found to be improving with higher K/S values, which in turn was dependant on higher mordant and/or dye concentration

4.ConclusionCompound shades are obtained using combinations of

dyes such as Sappanwood and catechu using harda as a natural mordant. The results are encouraging as wide range of shade gamut was obtained. The fastness properties seemed to have remained unchanged even with the use of combination of dyes.

Silk

Cotton

FA

BR

IC F

OC

US



IntroductionBhilwara (The Textile City)

Bhilwara, a small town buzzing with industrialization is one part of the momentous state of Rajasthan. It is located 165km away from Udaipur and has a historic significance. With the industry growing, it has started tasting the flavour of modernization. It is a gold mine for entrepreneurs rearing to make a mark for themselves. This city has a population of over 2 lakhs and has tugged away itself from just being a historic place, to a land of entrepreneurs who have built their businesses and continue to do so. This land is called Suiting hub of India, with 60% of suiting materials being manufactured from Bhilwara.

HistoryThe inventive spirit of people of Bhilwara got a kick start

with

vol 1,issue 3 textile value chain

Education

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subsidiary of brfl

fabric weaving

fabric level

finest fabrics

incredible range of

enormous range of fabrics

wide range of fabrics