CHAPURSANCHAPURSANCHAPURSANCHAPURSANValley of Dragons & Saints

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NWFP Wildlife DepartmentGovernment of NWFP

NA Forestry, Parks and Wildlife DepartmentNA Administration

Yami pis daroz watan melacrit hargiz limanFarmon pir-u buzurgan tamir-et yam chipurson.

The valley is long like a rope—we must stick together.The pirs and elders are advising to develop Chapursan.

Karigar-ät-hunarmand jawan carit xu toqat ayonmä lecrit mulk-e weiron tamir-et yam chipurson.

Professionals and laborers—all must use their skills.Don’t leave the land as it is—develop Chapursan.

Koh-e buland-u gheron peiwand misol zanjeer.Lalet yagut-i pinon nast yam suf di har gir.

The mountains are high and full of rocks—locked together like a chain.The precious stones are deep inside, a search on the surface would be in vain.

Dast-u diyor carit obod daraxt hazor katet.Shuker imom-er carit iteefog sak xetk amir.

The fields and the village must be developed. Let’s plant thousands of trees!Thanks to the imam we are a community, all working together for this.

Elmat-huner-än carit mast har yew xu zemanve.Chilim-et taryoq nast tojik qawmi nishon.

Work for your children’s education, so they can become professionals.And stay away from opium, as this is not our Wakhi custom!

Selsela-yam marodi qisa palwon venDario-e-xat nodishätk yem yenot tabir.

I’m a descendant of Muradi and this is the speech of a hunter.I am Dario and I don’t have much knowledge, but what I am saying came to me in my dreams.

Bori Giron Hard Worklocal song by Wakhi poet Alam Jan Dario,

freely translated into English

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CHAPURSAN FACTS

location Gojal, Upper Hunza, east ofKarakoram Highway

nearest town Sost, Gojal

public transport 1 x day (to/from Sost)

main settlements Yarz Rich, Raminj,Kermin, Kil, Reshit, Sheresabz, Spenj,Kampir Dior, Shetmerg, Zood Khun

accommodation simple guesthouses inReshit, Sheresabz, Zood Khun, BabaGhundi, camping possible

supplies basic meals can be prepared inthe guesthouses, but trekking foodshould be brought from Sost

population about 332 households, about2378 people

indigenous language Wakhi, Burushaski(Raminj)

indigenous wildlife snow leopard,Himalayan ibex, red fox, wolf, Himalayansnow cock, rock partridge

common plant species juniper, willow,poplar, wild roses, seabuckthorn, artimesia, ephedra

Bird’s eye view of Zood Khun village

Chapursan’s relative isolation until the completion of the link road to Sost some 20 years ago

has helped to keep many Wakhi traditions and customs intact. Especially during festivals and

weddings the visitor can enjoy these local traditions, such as the preparation of indigenous

food or the playing of traditional music.

For those interested in nature, Chapursan is a practically unspoiled paradise. The range of hiking,

trekking and mountaineering possibilities is so vast and diverse that inevitably there is a trek for

any taste and level of experience. From lush green juniper forests to isolated, snow capped

mountaintops, from green meadows and clear streams to glacial lakes and multi-colored rock

formations, Chapursan’s multi-faceted geography makes it a place to visit again and again.

During the reign of the Mir of Hunza and later under British occupation the area was heavily

hunted. In recent years, conservation efforts undertaken by the communities have slowly helped

to increase the wildlife population. Today, Himalayan ibex, wolves, golden eagles and even snow

leopards can again be observed in their natural habitat.

The distinctive mixture of cultural and natural attractions adds to Chapursan’s charm as a tourist

destination and who knows, one day you might agree, “Chapursan, What else do you need?”

INTRODUCTIONINTRODUCTIONINTRODUCTIONINTRODUCTION

INTRODUCTION

Chapursan. The meaning of the word says it all: “chi purson” — ”What else do you need!”.

The friendly communities inhabiting Chapursan seem to live by this motto. From the Burusho1

inhabited village of Raminj to the holy shrine of Baba Ghundi, welcoming smiles and Wahki

hospitality make this Gojali valley an irresistible attraction for any visitor. Long closed to

foreigners, due to its sensitive proximity to the Afghan border, it is but since 1999 that the

outsider can explore Chapursan’s sights and unique landscape.

Amongst the national Shia and Ismaili community, Chapursan has long been popular as a place of

pilgrimage. Believers from as far as Baltistan make the journey to Baba Ghundi Ziarat, a shrine

dedicated to the local saint Baba Ghundi, to pray for health and children. All along the jeep road to

Baba Ghundi small shrines commemorate the deeds of the saint and many fantastic myths and

legends still echo through the valley.

Perched high above the road

is the scenic village of Raminj.

Raminj is not only home to Chapursan’s

only Burusho community, but also to

Pakistan’s famous climber and

mountaineer Nazir Sabir.

Shepherd’s life and

sacred places go side by

side in Chapursan.

The shrine (or astan)

above is one of many

commemorating the

deeds of the local saint

Baba Ghundi.

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1 Burushaski speaking inhabitants of Raminj village. Chapursan is home to both Wakhi and Burusho communities.

In the windswept plains of the Wakhan Corridor,practically around the corner from Chapursan,lives a small community of Kyrgyz nomads. TheWakhi of Chapursan and the Kyrgyz of theWakhan have a long-standing relationship of across-border barter trade. The trading goes bothways. Often in spring, some Wakhis set off forPamir-e-Khurd, Little Pamir, to discuss prices,need and demand of the strong and sturdy

Pamir yaks. Between late September andOctober, the Kyrgyz caravans arrive in BabaGhundi to trade their yaks and local butteragainst flour, sugar, tea and other supplies thatare difficult or expensive to obtain inAfghanistan. The Kyrgyz seldom stay longerthan a few days in Baba Ghundi, but if you are

lucky and in Baba Ghundi at the right time(again, late September and early October arethe best chances), you can witness this oldtrade and see the arrival and departure of theheavily loaded caravans.

HISTORY&CULTUREHISTORY&CULTUREHISTORY&CULTUREHISTORY&CULTUREHISTORY&CULTURE

The legends around Baba Ghundi are

passed on from generation to generation

and many of those mystical places can

be visited by tourists.

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Rather than manifested in the origin of its population, Chapursan’s history is

marked by a remarkable amount of local myths and legends. Scattered along the

valley, many small shrine, (called astan or ziarat) and innumerable landmarks

recall the mystical tales of times long past. Most of these stories, whether they

carry a seed of truth or are spiced up by local imagination, inevitably lead to one

man: the Valley’s most venerated saint—Baba Ghundi…

HISTORY&CULTURE

Baba Ghundi, which in Persian means “old manof Ghund” was a spiritual wanderer, some sayan Ismaili preacher, from the village of Ghund intoday’s Tajikistan. On his way to Hunza, BabaGhundi passed through Chapursan where heperformed various miracles, each commemorat-ed with a small shrine. In the famous story ofRavai Lake, the saint slayed a dragon which ter-rorized a village. Baba Ghundi saved a little girlmeant to be sacrificed and freed the village ofthe horrible monster. The lake in which the dragon used to live has long since dried out, butthe dragon’s bones can still be found in thesandy depression…

However, Baba Ghundi was not just a selflessholy man—his stories also tell of sin and retri-bution. When the saint visited Chapursan longafter the dragon incident, he found the villagersgreedy and selfish. They had forgotten BabaGhundi and his spiritual teachings and were notinterested in religion. Disguised as a poor man

he went from house to house asking for somealms of food. None of the villagers paid anyattention to the beggar. It was only one old lady,very poor herself, who took pity on him andoffered him some milk. Thankful and convincedof her piety, Baba Ghundi advised the old lady togather all her belongings and climb the highesthill in the village the next morning. She obeyedand witnessed a great big flood destroying thevillage and its sinful inhabitants. Only the oldlady survived. Evidently, great outburst floodsfrom the Yishkuk Glacier have destroyed bigparts of the upper Chapursan valley and inKampir Dior village the remains of the old lady’shouse can be seen amongst the rubble of mudand boulders.

Baba Ghundi eventually died in Chapursan andthe shrine commemorating his death, the BabaGhundi Ziarat, is today an important place of pilgrimage for all Shia and Ismaili Muslims. (seealso pg 8)

BABA GHUNDI, THE LEGENDARY SAINT

CARAVANS IN BABA GHUNDI

Wakhi music & poetryThe Wakhis, originally from Afghanistan’sBadakhshan province, are today settled inTajikistan, Afghanistan, northern Pakistanand parts of Xinxiang province, China.

Wakhi are renowned for their poetry andmusic and Chapursan is a good place to geta taste of this old musical tradition. A singeris often accompanied by a Rabob (a Persianstring instrument, like a guitar with a longneck) and a Daf, a large, flat drum.

Some of Pakistan’s most famous Wakhisingers and poets come from Chapursan,and often their songs are broadcasted onthe local radio.

Many of the Wakhi tunes originate from old Persian melodies and in Chapursan traditional songs as well as modern adapta-tions with new lyrics can be heard. Musicalevenings can easily be arranged.023564p7

The ancient Silk Route still in use:

Kyrgyz traders come over the Irshad Pass

from Afghanistan to Baba Ghundi.

For the locals the green, flat grassland of BabaGhundi is more than a place of worship. Duringthe summer months a small number of Wakhishepherds live here, tending several hundredsheep and goats. Not every Chapursani familyhas to take care of their own livestock, though.During the summer Kuch, the villagers bring uptheir animals to several high pastures (BabaGhundi being just one) where they entrust theirflocks to a few Wakhi women for the duration ofthe summer. It is those women’s responsibilityto keep track of the animals, to milk and feedthem and to make many of the delicious dairyproducts, such as pai (yogurt), rughan (butter),merek (cream) or qurut, a special mountaincheese. In exchange for their service, the shep-herd families get some money and can keepmost of the dairy products they produce.

In addition to Chapursan’s livestock, the shep-herds of Baba Ghundi also herd a number ofsheep belonging to the Mir of Hunza’s family.This tradition goes back a long time when theMir needed pasture land for his wealth of animals and the people of Gojal had to pay tribute to their ruler.

SHEPHERD’S LIFE IN BABA GHUNDI

BABA GHUNDI ZIARAT AND JUMARAT

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During Jumarat, goats are being blessed and their meat shared with all people present. Whether you are a believer or non-believer, old or young, rich or poor, makes no difference.

Chapursan Festivals (selection)

MARCH

~15th/20th: Kut-e-Thit (Spring Cleaning)Once a year, the traditional houses, especially thewooden ceilings, are cleaned of the black soot, dustand dirt caused by the smoke of the stoves. Thispractice is found all over Hunza.

21st: Shegd-Sol (New Year)

APRIL

~5th/8th: Tagum (Sowing Festival)Villagers celebrate the beginning of the sowing andplowing period with a communal gathering in afield, prayers and blessings of the grains. A specialsweet dish, Semen, is served and shared.

JUNE

~18th/21sr: Kuch (Transhumance)Summer Kuch - livestock is being brought up to the lower pastures and later moved to the high pastures.

JULY

11th: SalgiraAll Ismailis celebrate the day of the Aga Khan’sinauguration as the current Imam. The communityorganizes polo games, school plays, speeches etc.

AUGUST

~8th/10th: Chinir (Harvest Festival)People celebrate the beginning of the harvestingseason. Strands of ripe wheat are cut and broughtto the houses for decoration. Special food, likeyoghurt or cream is shared in the Jamat Khana andextra food is brought to people who cannot be present: the sick, the old and the family members on the high pastures.

As in many cultures, very few of Chapursan’s festivals have fixed dates. The exact

day of celebration of many festivals depends on several factors, such as astrology,

the weather and the Islamic calendar. If you want to attend a specific festival it is

best to ask around for the exact date.

HISTORY&CULTUREHISTORY&CULTUREHISTORY&CULTUREHISTORY&CULTUREHISTORY&CULTURE

HISTORY&CULTURE

Final destination

of the race is

the astan of

Woolio.

Twice a year, during Kuch, the shepherds

bring their sheep and goats to and from

the high pastures. Many animals spend

the summer around Baba Ghundi.

A Wakhi woman making qurut, a sour, local cheese.

The shrine of Baba Ghundi, is about 10km up-valley from Zood Khun. Accessible by jeep, thisplace is Hunza’s most important shrine anddraws pilgrims from all corners of northernPakistan. Devoted Ismaili and Shia Muslims willtry to do the pilgrimage at least once duringtheir life time, many come more often. The cur-rent shrine, housing Baba Ghundi’s sword andthe saint’s tomb, was built in 1924 by Hunza’sMir Ghazan Khan and recently renovated in1999. A visit to the shrine is thought to bestowhealth and happiness to the worshiper and child-

less couples come and pray for children. TheThursdays during late September and earlyOctober are most auspicious for the pilgrimage.During this celebration, called Jumarat, believ-ers gather around the tomb, religious songs aresung throughout the night and goats are offeredwith prayers. The meat, blessed by the spirit ofthe holy Baba Ghundi, is then equally distributedbetween all people present. Close to the mainshrine, a small path, lined with ibex horns leadsto a holy spring, which is supposed to originatedirectly from the saint’s grave.

023564p8

Chapursan Festivals continued

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER

~end/mid october: Kuch (Transhumance)Winter Kuch - depending on the weather and the onsetof winter, livestock is being brought down to lower altitudes. Yaks, however, will spend the winter in thelower pastures of the Wakhan Corridor.

~last Thursday in sept./first Thursday in oct.:Jumarat (Pilgrimage to Baba Ghundi Ziarat)Biggest celebration in Baba Ghundi (see text)

~every 3-4 days: Mountain PoloTraditional Mountain Polo is played in almost every village. The location of the games varies, so ask thelocals where and when the next game will take place.

SEPTEMBER - DECEMBER

~throughout: WeddingsTraditional Wakhi weddings are held and if you askaround you will be welcome to attend the celebrations.

What to do?IN VILLAGES/ON HIGH PASTURES

be considerate of the local culture

wear appropriate clothing. Locals usually loveto see foreigners wearing shalwar kamiz

ask permission before taking photographs, especially of women or religious places

if you want to give a gift or a donation, handit to a responsible, respected person, such as aschoolteacher or community leader

when offered local food be humble andthankful. You can share some of your own foodin exchange

WHILE TREKKINGdispose properly of all your garbage. Burn

paper, collect plastic, flatten tins and carrythem out. Hiding garbage under a stone is notan option!

leave your campsite in the state you found it

use gas or kerosene for cooking. If you needto use wood, leave a donation for the village

choose toilet sites at least 50m away fromyour camp and from any river or water source.Dig a toilet pit for larger groups

avoid toilet paper if possible. Use waterinstead

be an example to your guides and porters byfollowing and explaining these guidelines andtheir reasons >> 023564023564

ECOTOURISMECOTOURISMECOTOURISM

ECOTOURISM

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The term ecotourism has, in recent years, become a popular slogan used by tour operators all

over the world. Yet, what exactly is ecotourism? In a nutshell, ecotourism could be defined as

ecologically, environmentally and socially responsible tourism. The main aims of ecotourism are

to protect and preserve nature and to help provide the means to do so (financial and educational)

by directly supporting local communities. Other aspects, such as the sustainability of local culture

and history also form part of this low-impact approach to tourism.

Looking at the negative impact mass-tourism can have on native culture and environment, eco-

tourism is a sensible alternative. Instead of traveling in large groups, consider taking the trip with

only a few like-minded people. A simple consideration such as this can already result in a multi-

tude of positive effects. In small villages, the communities can easily accommodate a small group

and the need for building large hotels can be limited. A trip for a large group will most likely be

organized by an outside tour operator. By taking local guides and porters you will have a chance

to get a genuine insight into the life of local people and you will directly contribute to their wel-

fare. Activities, such as wildlife watching are much easier to conduct and have a much better

success rate when traveling in a small group.

Those are only a few examples of how ecotourism can be employed and directly benefit the area

you are visiting. More guidelines are given on the side bars. It is up to you alone to follow these

guidelines to minimize the impact of tourism. As an ecotourist you are not just a visitor; you can

play an active role in helping to conserve nature and to form a better understanding between

people of different cultures.

GENERALtry to travel in small groups

hire local guides and porters

support the local community by buying local products and handicrafts directly from the people

What not to do!IN VILLAGES/ON HIGH PASTURES

do not wear shorts or tight fitting shirts

don’t hug or kiss in public

WHILE TREKKINGdon’t disturb wildlife by making unnecessary

noise

don’t hunt or kill any animals or pull out anyplants

never leave any garbage (esp. candy wrap-pers, cigarette butts…) on the trail or at campsites

don’t use wood for cooking. If you need touse wood, collect dry branches from theground – never break fresh branches!

GENERALdon’t pass out any gifts, such as candy,

pens or even money to children. Instead, giveyour donation to a responsible adult or school

don’t carve or write your name on stones,trees, etc.

AN ECO FRIENDLY WAY OF TRANSPORTHORSE TREKKING IN CHAPURSAN

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Before the arrival of the Karakoram Highway in1978 and especially the completion of the roadto Chapursan, people in Chapursan, as in manyother places used horses for transportation. Thearrival of cars caused many locals to sell theirhorses. Wood and other goods could be trans-ported much more efficiently by tractor and the

keeping of horses became a pure luxury. Withthe absence of horses, however, other local tra-ditions, such as the famous mountain polo werein danger to become forgotten.

Today, Chapursan is one of few valleys in Gojalwhere horses can again be found. As their main-tenance is expensive, ecotourism can help togive a new incentive for locals to breed horsesand to revive their traditions. Horse trekking is a

beautiful and unique way to experience themountains. No car noise will disturb yourimpressions and you are free to stop and restwherever you like. Some of Chapursan’s mostpopular trekking routes, such as the IrshadPass, can also be undertaken by horse and evenif you are not keen on riding, a horse carrying

your luggage can greatly ‘ease’ your trekkingexperience.

People in Chapursan are still fond of playingpolo, but the game today is far from where itonce was. There is a dire need for new saddlesand other equipment; youngsters need to betrained to carry on the tradition. Tourism canhelp to sustain and revive this centuries old‘game of the kings’.

ECOTOURISM in Chapursan

See Chapusan and its sights from a different perspective: Bridge near Kil (left), old British watch tower (right)

Trekking routes shown on this map are approximate only and should not be used for navigation.

ZHUI SAMAn easy stroll into Zood Khun’s surroundingscan lead you to this idyllic place opposite theYishkuk Glacier.

hidden, crystal blue lakesgreat camp site

YISHKUKLess than an hour’s walk along the BabaGhundi road brings you to this legendary glacier.

ask locals about the legend of Yishkukexplore paradisial meadows and fresh

water springs hidden amongst the rubble(right of the jeep road)

enjoy the view on Chapursan Valley

PAMIRIFollow the ablation valley of the YishkukGlacier to Zood Khun’s most favorite summer pasture

abundance of wild flowers in summerfantastic views across the glacierpossible extension to Zood Khun Sar base

camp—many unclimbed 6000-7000m peaksibex and snow leopard habitat

DILISANG SAR BASE CAMPThis little known trek brings you to the baseof Dilisang Sar (6208m), a beautiful peakwith the nickname ‘Little K2’.

camp under old juniper treespeakpossibility (12-16 hrs from base camp)possible extension via Sek Sar base

camp to Baba Ghundi (unexplored)There are several options to reach Baba GhundiZiarat from Zood Khun, the last village ofChapursan. The options range from easy andcomfortable to adventurous — take your pick!

Along the jeep road: The 10km road toBaba Ghundi makes for a scenic 45 minutedrive by hired vehicle (about Rs1000) or about1 hour by tractor. Walking will takes 4-5 hoursand a horse will bring you there in 2.5 - 3hours.

Trekking via Band-e-Ben: The moderatetrek along the opposite side of the ChapursanRiver is a good alternative for those who don’tlike to walk along roads. The trail is often usedby shepherds and though steep and faded atparts, is not very difficult to find. It would be astiff six hours to do it in a day, but better is tosplit the trek and spend one night camping bythe beautiful lakes of Zhui Sam.

Trekking via Shigard: A bit out of the way if you only want to reach Baba Ghundi, but ifyou want to combine some adventure withyour trip to the shrine, this is a nice option.Thetrek starts half way to Pamiri (see left) and isvirtually unexplored. A guide is essential.

Rates and FeesGENERAL TREKKING FACTSguides are always paid per day for every day they spend with you. This also includes rest days. A guide should have a license and hisresponsibilities include hiring and supervising of porters, route finding, organizing transport,etc.. A guide usually only carries his own equipment.

porters are paid per stage. A porter carries up to 25kg not including his own equipment. Ontreks above 5000m the load should not exceed20kg. Porters are paid 1/2 stage for rest days.

wapasi (return) is paid to porters at half the stage rate. Wapasi is paid when the trek ends in a different place and the porter returns to his point of origin unloaded. If the return is viapublic transport, the transport cost should bepaid, but no wapasi.

FEES IN CHAPURSAN (as of summer 2003)

guides 1-3 clients: 800Rs/day, 4-6 clients:1000Rs/day, 7 or more: 1100Rs/day

porters 280Rs/stage

horse safari 600Rs/day, 250Rs/day for horse man

yak safari 750Rs/day, 250Rs/day for yak leader

yak, horse, donkey (for carrying loads)280Rs/25kg/stage

ALWAYS DISCUSS FEES & STAGES

BEFORE LEAVING ON A TREK!

TREKKINGTREKKINGTREKKING

TREKKINGTREKKING in Chapursan

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11 hour

easy

highlights

21 - 2 hours

easy

highlights

33 - 4 days

moderate

highlights

43 - 4 days

moderate

highlights

TREKS FROM ZOOD KHUN (selection only — askyour local guide about longer treks such as Lupgar Pir Pass

or the newly opened Yuksh Goz Trek leading to Passu)

View of Kampir Dior Sar (7168m)

across the Yishkuk Glacier

Three ways to Baba Ghundi

Trek along clear streams and spring water lakes to some of Chapursan’s most scenic spots.

023564p13

Chapursan’s trekking and mountaineeringpotential is exceptionally vast. Every yearlocals and trekkers open new passes andscale previously unclimbed mountains.Others come for climbing and even skiingexpeditions. Some of these demanding andadventurous possibilities are listed below:

opening of new trekking or mountaineer-ing routes, especially those connectingChapursan with neighboring valleys.

skiing expeditions (cross country or down-hill) are possible in winter and early spring,but you will need to bring all your equipment

uncountable peak possibilities. Chapursanprobably has the biggest selection ofunclimbed 6000-7000m peaks.

If you are interested in undertaking any ofthese activities, it is essential to take localguides. They can help you plan, organize andexamine possible risks. Fees for such specialexpeditions will have to be discussed on acase-by-case basis.

A look into the WakhanTrekking up to Irshad Uween, the 4925mpass demarcating the border betweenPakistan and Afghanistan is one of Chapur-san’s major attractions. The trek boastssome fascinating scenery, the colors of thesurrounding mountains changing frombrown to ochre to orange and yellow.Endless screes lead high up to the ruggedmountain tips, evoke the feeling of havingstepped into another world.

So far no fence or border check post dis-turbs your impressions when standing ontop of the pass. In order for it to stay thatway and to assure others can enjoy this his-torical trek as well, do not attempt to crossinto Afghanistan from here! Border cross-ing at this point is highly illegal and militaryon the Afghan side closely controls the area.

Any foreigner has to register with the policecheck post in Baba Ghundi.

38 - 15 days

extreme

highlights

43 - 4 days

demanding

highlights

Be a pioneer

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IRSHAD UWEEN Follow an old trading route by horse, yak orfoot for a peek into Afghanistan’s WakhanCorridor.

multi-colored mountainschance to meet Kyrgyz traders with their

yak caravansentrance to ‘Little Pamir’

GHULAM ALI PASSThis trek was opened in 2002 and offers amore difficult access to a narrow pass intothe Pamir (no border crossing!)

involves glacier crossing (depending onseason rope, crampons, ice axe needed)

enter through Sekr Jerab, the red canyonstunning views of Batura Group and

Chapursan’s highest mountains

CHILINJI ANThis trek has so many alternative routes thatit is hard to rate. Possible end-points of thistrek are Ishkoman Valley (8 days), YasinValley (13 days) or Chitral (15 days)

crossing of glaciated Chilinji Pass (5160m)take a rest at the grassy plains near

Karambar Lake (Yasin/Chitral trek)trek trough the juniper forests of the

enchanting Karambar Valley (Ishkoman Trek)

KUZ SAR BASE CAMPAlternative for people with not enough timeor stamina for Chilinji. Also Chapursan’ssummer pasture for yaks.

easy glacier cossingmeet shepherd’s in summerpossibility of climbing Kuz Sar Peak

(6677m), which is unclimbed from theChapursan side

OTHER TREKS This section describes a small selection of treks,which start and/or end in other, lesser-known parts of the valley.

TREKKINGTREKKING

TREKKINGTREKKINGTREKS FROM BABA GHUNDI (selection only)

Going by horse to Irshad Uween (left). View from Ghulam Ali Pass (middle), Kuz Sar Glacier (right)

13 - 4 days

moderate

highlights

23 - 4 days

demanding

highlights

12 - 3 days

moderate

highlights

22 days

moderate

highlights

32 - 3 days

easy

highlights

42 days

moderate

highlights

KERMIN PASSThis old route connects Chapursan with theneighboring Misgar. Crossing into Misgar isonly possible after September when theriver is low.

see old ‘Silk Route Rocks’ on top of thepass—ask your guide for the story

cross into Misgar or extend the trek byspending a few days up on the ridge

fantastic views into both valleys

LUPGAR PASTUREThis day trek to Raminj’s summer pastureHarkeesh is also the meeting point of sever-al other treks, such as the Werthum Trek(to/from Passu) or Lupgar Pass (to/fromZood Khun)

grassy camp site surrounded by steepcliffs, spires and towers

trek through a canyon high above theriver and follow the path along juniper andbirch trees, roses and tamarisks.

BY HORSE FROM SOSTA unique and eco-friendly alternative to taking motorized transport. You will need toarrange this trip in advance, so the horsescan be brought down to Sost.

visit the shrine of Panja Shahmake a detour via Raminj and enjoy

Burusho hospitalitybathe in the waterfall near Kil

KERMIN TO KILA small pass connects the side valleysbetween Kermin and Kil. This trek hardlyever sees any foreigners.

discover Chapursan’s unknown side.grassy and lush trek

FOR MORE INFORMATIONFOR MORE INFORMATIONFOR MORE INFORMATIONFOR MORE INFORMATION

FOR MORE INFORMATION...

NUMBERS

1 yiu han2 bui alto3 troi usko4 tsabur walto5 panz tsundo6 shath mishindo7 hub thalo

8 hath altambo9 nao huncho

10 thas torumo11 thas yiu turmahan12 thas bui turmaalto20 wist altar

100 yisad tha

USEFUL WAKHI AND BURUSHASKI WORDS AND PHRASES

Wakhi is the native language of mostChapursanis and is spoken throughout

Gojal. Burushaski is only spoken inRaminj. This language section is by no

means complete or in depth, but it mighthelp to bridge the gap between you andthe people whose home you are visiting.Make an attempt to just learn a few basic

words and your efforts will be highlyregarded and appreciated.

ENGLISH

How are you?I’m fine.What’s your name?My name is …Where are you going?

I need …I am thirsty.I am hungry.

Sit down.Drink tea.Eat food.

YesNoGo!

How much/many?What?When?Where?Who?Why?

this/thesehere/thereright/left

WAKHI

chizole?bidurte ti nunge chiz?zhu nunge …kumeret takhk?

marey … bokorweskim vitkmerzim vitk

nezd/nezdid (pl.)choi pevshapik yao

yanneichow

tsumr?chiz?tsogdar?kumr?kui?chizer?

yemdrem/drarrost/chap

BURUSHASKI

be hal bila?shua bagwik besan bila?ja eik ...bilaam nicho?

ja... zarurat bilaje oüyabaje chamineba

kaoruchai mineshapik shi

awabeyani!

be rum?besan?beshal?amulo?men?bes?

ise/itsekole/eledoyum/gayum

ENGLISH

aheadbehindin frontnear

big/smalla littlegood/badbeautifulcold/hot

day/nighttodaytomorrowyesterday

bridgecloudfireflowerhousemountainrainstonesuntrail/pathwater

WAKHI

terperittertsabasperitqarib

lup/zaqlaisafkekbaf/shakkhushruisuur/thin

ror/naghdwoodgpigayezi

skordwitishrakhnighspreghkhunkohmorgaryirvidekyupk

BURUSHASKI

yariljiyakalyaryakalasir

uyum/jotpitwanshuwa/gunekishdaltaschagurum/garurum

gun/thapkultojimalesabur

bashqurunshpfuasqurhachishharaltdansagantsil

FOR TREKKING INFORMATION, please contact:The President / General Secretary, Valley Conservation Committee (VCC)Chapursan, GojalNAs, Pakistan

PUBLICATION

LAYOUT & DESIGN Mareile Paley / design@paleyphoto.com

PHOTOGRAPHY Matthieu Paley / info@paleyphoto.com

TEXT Mareile Paley

PRINTING Colorline Islamabad / colorline99@yahoo.co.uk

No part of this brochure may be reproduced in any form without prior permission by MACP, Pakistan. © Photography: Matthieu Paley / www.paleyphoto.com

Contacts

About MACPThe Mountain Areas Conservancy Project (MACP) is aseven-year project funded by GEF/UNDP. Its aims arethe protection of biodiversity of the Karakoram, HinduKush, and western Himalayan mountain ranges throughcommunity-based conservation efforts.

The project believes that the long-term conservation ofnatural resources is not possible without the active par-ticipation of the local communities, who should take onthe role of local custodians of their environment. MACPhelps organize, educate and empower these communi-ties, creating an in-house capacity at the grass-rootslevel. The project interventions range from planning,organizing, awareness raising activities to helping com-munities accessing resources and sustainable usedemonstrations. In addition, MACP helps molding gov-ernment policies for participatory conservation in orderto help communities establish conservation endow-ments as sustainable financial mechanisms. Thesefunds are managed by the communities themselves andare based on profits made from ecotourism activities,such as limited trophy hunting, medicinal plants ex-situand in-situ conservation, wildlife watching safaris ortrekking. This approach enables and motivates the com-munities to provide better facilities to tourists, for maxi-mum enjoyment. This novel approach has now beenreplicated in most parts of the mountain valleys inNorthern Areas.

MACP operates in four designated areas in northernPakistan, totaling a zone of 16,300 square kilometres.Two of these areas (the Nanga Parbat and GojalConservancies) are in Northern Areas and two (Tirichmirand Qashqar Conservancies) are located in NWFP.

For more information on MACP, please refer to thesources on this page.

There are a number of organizations, professionals and individuals whose help

and expertise made this publication possible. We tried to give the most accurate

and up-to-date information possible, but please always consider that prices go up

and that ”The only constant thing in life is change”. Help us to make this change

as smooth and positive as possible by being a responsible ecotourist.

MACP-Project Management UnitMACP/IUCN-PakistanH. 38, St. 86, Main Embassy Road G-6/3, IslamabadPhone: (+92 51) 2270686-87Fax: (+92 51) 2270688Email: hasnain.bukhari@isb.iucnp.org

MACP-Regional Office Gilgit Alpine Complex, Main Gilgit RoadGilgit, Northern Areas, PakistanPhone: (+92 5811) 55808, 55809, 54589Fax: (+92 5811) 55799Email: macp@glt.comsats.net.pk www.macp-pk.org